Setting Up An Enclosure For A SNAKE

Maybe they're not exactly cuddly, but snake makes interesting pets. Regardless of the type of snake, from nice little corn snakes up to monster Burmese pythons, there are some principles that apply to setting up a cage or enclosure for a pet snake. One of the most important aspects is to make sure the enclosure is absolutely escape-proof.

Boa - Photo: Wikimedia

Snakes are known to have Houdini tendencies when it comes to staying confined. Aquariums make good enclosures for snakes, but the lids have to fit tightly and be clipped on. Some owners make belts to attach to the enclosure for more security. Any doors or openings in the cage need to fit tightly or the snake will push against it trying to get out. Remember, most of them are pretty slim, so they don't need that big of an opening to slip out.

The size of the enclosure should reflect the size of the snake. Many babies are insecure in a large cage and even have trouble finding their food. It's usually advisable to put young snakes in smaller enclosures. To choose a size of cage for an adult snake, first, measure the length of the snake. Get an enclosure with a perimeter that measures twice the length of the snake. For instance, a three-foot long snake would do OK in an enclosure 12 by 24 inches.

The exception to the above rule is arboreal, or tree-dwelling, snakes. These need a taller enclosure with lots of branches for climbing.

A snake enclosure needs a material to cover the bottom, called a substrate. Newspaper can line the bottom of the enclosure and makes a cheap surface that absorbs moisture and is easy to change when soiled. There are also special types of carpeting available at the pet store to use as a substrate. If you have two that fit, you can use one while washing the other.

Temperature is very important in a snake enclosure. Snakes are cold-blooded animals and have to keep warm from outside sources. Ideally, a pet snake's cage will provide several choices in temperature so the animal can regulate its body heat. This is done by heating one end of the enclosure only. Heating methods include heating pads under half of the enclosure or heat lamps. If using a light, it will need to be off during the night hours.

Thermometers should be used to monitor the inside temperature. Requirements vary from one species to another. A pet store product called a "hot rock" is widely discouraged because it has a tendency to burn pet snakes. Using a heat lamp or infrared heating panel is a far better way to provide the snake with heat. Some snakes have specific humidity requirements, too. A hygrometer can be used to monitor humidity. Misting the enclosure from time to time can help keep it more humid when necessary.

The snake will need a water bowl. Ideally, it should not tip easily. For most varieties of snake, it should be large enough to take a soak once in awhile. Keeping it only about a third full helps avoid soaking the substrate. Pottery and wide based pet food dishes work well for water bowls.

A final necessity in the enclosure is a place for the snake to hide. This can be as simple as a plastic dish with a hole cut in the side. Having two, one on each end of the enclosure, gives the snake a choice. Setting up a nice enclosure takes a little time and money, but will ensure your snake has comfort and security.

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When LIZARDS will not eat, they have to eat

Like any animal, lizards at times in captivity will need to be force fed. There are situations and conditions which will result in a lizard not eating on their own.

Some diseases lizards can get will result in seizures or a similar condition. It is imperative not to feed them during an incident like this. They will most likely not be able to swallow the food. It is best to seek the help of a veterinarian at this point. 

Fistful of lizard - Photo by jurvetson 

The animal will need to have a tube placed into their stomach to feed. If the animal shows no signs of seizures, they can be fed using a syringe. It is tricky to get their mouth open but should be possible using the syringe itself. 

Using the syringe, squeeze the processed food into the back of the throat, taking great care to avoid the trachea at the back of the tongue. Make sure to only offer as much food as the animal can handle. Larger lizards can obviously handle more food. 

It may also be possible to force-feed feeder insects. If the lizard is having digestive problems, however, the liquid substitute is much easier to digest, as much of the work is already done. Another advantage of liquid feeding is the fact that you control exactly what the lizard is getting into its diet.

For the vegetable part of the liquid diet, vegetable baby food works very well. This food is high in vitamins and can easily be digested by the lizard. Make sure to add in a calcium supplement to the food. Younger lizards need to be fed more often but in smaller quantities, while larger lizards will need to be fed less often, but with higher quantities per feeding.

You have to follow the natural way your lizard eats its food, as not to upset their natural metabolism. If your lizard eats both insects and vegetables, you can use a type of cat food (used for sick cats) if they will eat it. You can also try to add insect matter (use fresh insects) into the liquid mix.

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Big, Beautiful Parson's CHAMELEON

Out of all the chameleons in the world, the Parson's Chameleon is said to be the largest when it comes to weight. They reach the size of a house cat, and the tail can stretch to be longer than the body. These large reptiles are native to eastern Madagascar and are very popular among collectors due to their size and also the wide appeal of the chameleon's appearance.

Parson's Chameleon - Photo0: Wikimedia

These brilliantly colored lizards are characterized by their gray or brownish colorings as juveniles, but the colors and patterns change depending upon the different life stage they may be in. Dark banding runs diagonally across the thick body of this chameleon. In adulthood, colors that are present include greens and blues. Some males can exhibit orange eyelids and even yellow or white lips. A dorsal crest is sometimes present in males, as well as two rostral appendages. They look like two tiny horns.

The natural habitat for this amazing reptile is low and mid-altitude rainforests. They seem to have a preference of being near moving water and are very often found next to streams. They are very seldom if ever seen on the ground, instead preferring the canopy of trees and the security and prey they provide.

The Parson's chameleon is an omnivore, munching regularly on small lizards, birds and perhaps even small mice when it's looking for a meaty meal. Other items on the menu for this bruiser include leaves, flowers, and also many different kinds of fruits. For a water source, many owners choose to use some sort of drip system.

Chameleons are notorious for not drinking from standing water, preferring to take their hydration as it drips from leaves or trickles from a waterfall. Like other chameleons, the Parson's chameleon can extend its tongue to one and a half times its body length to capture prey.

Perhaps mostly because of its size, the Parson's chameleon seems to be popular with people who keep reptiles. It is a particularly slow moving specimen and may appear to be a bit lazy. This should not, however, fool you into thinking you can house this chameleon in a smaller sized cage. It still needs plenty of room to roam about. Room- sized cages that offer plenty of hiding spots seem to make the Parson's chameleon happy.

When it comes to home habitat, the Parson's chameleon has requirements that are similar to other chameleons. They need things to climb on, preferably live vegetation. They prefer the temperature to be on the warm side, up to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not dipping below 65 degrees at night. Humidity should be on the high side to mimic their natural habitat in the wild. We recommend 80 to 100 percent humidity levels.

Cages should be constructed from sturdy materials. No glass or plastic, as it doesn't allow for any air exchange within the cage. They live in the trees - they need plenty of ventilation. Parsons is a solitary creature and will exhibit signs of stress when they are subjected to overcrowding, and with Parsons, two's a crowd unless it's time to mate.

Breeding males will actually butt heads to try to establish who is more dominant. The females only breed once every two years. They can lay up to 25 eggs. The eggs incubate for an incredible twenty months.

Knowing what to look for when selecting a Parson's chameleon can help with your enjoyment of this fascinating reptile. Remember, the life span of these guys can be over six years. Check to see if the skin springs back when it is lightly pinched. If not, the chameleon is dehydrated. Also look to see how active it is. A reluctance to climb or even move about could be a sign that the reptile is not very healthy. Another point to look for is eyes that are constantly open. Chameleons are said to never close their eyes in the daytime.

As with any exotic, the best way to keep the Parsons Chameleon healthy is to maintain a habitat that resembles his native habitat as closely as possible. Learn about his geographical area and have the enclosure ready before you purchase your Parsons Chameleon.

By Vivian T Alsup Article Source: EzineArticles

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Top 3: Types of LIZARD PETS

There are several types of lizard pets available for sale at most pet stores which can make deciding which is the best for you a difficult decision. You will need to keep in mind how much money you have to spend, how much room you have available, and how long you are willing to care for the pet. Of the several species available, I have chosen my three personal favorites which are easy to care for, enjoy being handled, and have affordable starter and upkeep costs.

Bearded Dragon

Photo by Tambako the Jaguar

Native to: Most regions of Australia

Size: Adults can grow to around 24″

Diet: Omnivore

Habitat: Dry, Hot Desert Conditions

Cost: Varies from around $ 40 for regulars, to over $ 200 for special morphs

Life Span: Around 10 years on average

Pros: Beardies are a very hardy and well-tempered lizard that grows to a comfortable handling size. The desert environment they need to survive is fairly easy to create and maintain when compared to other lizards who require moist conditions.

Cons: As juveniles, this lizard’s appetite can get quite expensive, as they need insects to be offered daily. UV lighting is required and bulbs need to be replaced a couple times a year, adding to costs. Beardies also require a 55 gallon enclosure at minimum to live happily, which takes up a lot of space.

Leopard Gecko

Photo by simply.jessi

Native to: Pakistan, Afghanistan, Northwestern India

Size: Adults grow to around 8-10″

Diet: Insectivores

Habitat: Warm, dry desert conditions

Cost: Varies from $ 20 to $ 400 or more

Life Span: Up to 20 years

Pros: Geckos can be housed comfortably in a 20 gallon tank, requiring little space and expense.

They don’t need UV lighting and require less heat than a beardie or uromastyx. They only eat insects so you wont need to fuss with cutting vegetables daily and save a bit on the food bill.

Cons: Geckos have very few cons, but they are nocturnal, so they aren’t very active during the day. They are also fairly small and squirmy compared to a larger lizard, so handling can be risky.

Mali Uromastyx

Photo by hj_west 

Native to: North Africa, Middle East, South Asia to India

Size: Around 16″ for an adult male

Diet: Omnivore

Habitat: Dry/Very Hot Desert Conditions

Cost: $ 40 to over $ 200 depending on size

Life Span: Up to 30 years

Pros: Uro’s are very docile lizards that are very similar to bearded dragons. They seem to enjoy human interaction and are fairly hardy. These critters are very active during the daytime, often throwing their veggies around to make a nice mess for us.

Cons: Much like the beardie, uro’s need a large enclosure and UV lighting. Mali uromastyx also need extremely high temperatures around 120F. These lizards can live up to 30 years, so be ready for a long-term commitment if you decide a mali uro is for you.

All three of these types of lizard pets are great for beginners. Which suits you best will mostly depend on how much room you have available, and how much money you are willing to invest. Beardies and Uro’s are the best for handling, but cost more than a gecko to start-up and maintain. Gecko’s and bearded dragons live around 10 years, whereas a mali uromastyx can live up to 30. This could make them a poor choice for a child who will  most likely be moving from Mom and Dad’s to go to college or start their own family in the near future. Keep these things in mind so that you don’t regret your purchase, or end up having to give your pet away because they cost too much, or because they don’t fit in with your lifestyle.

Author: Joselyn

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The Slow and Steady Reptile: the TURTLE

Of all the reptiles that can be found in an average neighborhood, turtles are probably the easiest to catch.  Let's take a tour of a turtle and see what we can learn from it.   One of the most interesting parts of the turtle is the most obvious, its shell.  The back of a turtle shell is formed from bones that have fused together into a hard structure.  On top of the bone layer are large scales that cover and protect the surface of the bone, and give the turtle its distinctive color. 

A female North American three-toed box turtle (Terrapene carolina triunguis)
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Some sea turtles have shells with bones that are separated, and the leatherback turtle has no scales at all, just leathery skin with little bony plates distributed in its skin.   The shells of land turtles are typically quite high and round, in order to discourage predators from attempting to crush the shells in their mouths.

Water turtles generally have much flatter shells, in order to allow for faster swimming. The bottom of the shell, called the plastron, is also fused bone, but it is covered with a different kind of scale, in order for the turtle to move easily over its territory.  A few turtles, such as the American box turtle, have hinges on the bottom of its shell.  The box shell turtle can withdraw into the shell and then close the hinges, so that no predator can reach any of the turtle within.   These hinges also protect against moisture loss on particularly dry days.

Like many other reptiles, turtles lay their eggs on land.  Baby turtles generally grow rapidly until they reach young adulthood, and then the rate of growth slows.  Large turtles often keep growing at a slow rate for their entire life.  The shells of most turtles grow to at least five inches in diameter, and the monster of the turtle family is the Leatherback, which can have a shell six feet long and weigh up to fifteen hundred pounds.   One of the larger common American turtles is the Alligator snapping turtle, which can have a shell of over two feet in length and weigh up to two hundred pounds.  It is easier to tell the age of turtles than most other reptiles because the plates on their back often have growth rings, similar to trees.  Each time a turtle stops growing it creates a depression in each scale, and so these can be counted to determine the age of the turtle.

A number of turtles have lived for more than one hundred years, and turtles might be the longest-lived vertebrates, up to two hundred years old.  Some American families carved their names and dates into box turtle shells, and these markers indicate that even local turtles can live to be more than one hundred years old.

Next time you see a turtle, check it out carefully.  Watch how slowly it walks (generally at about one third of a mile an hour), and look carefully at the markings on its shell.  Turn it over to see the underside of the shell, and how the two connect.  See if you can see any markings on the shell to count how old it is.  Check out other interesting facts and behaviors about the turtles in your area at your local library or bookstore.

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Searching for Small REPTILES

Lizards are one of an interesting group of animals that you might not think about too much - the reptiles.  The biggest of the reptiles, the alligator, is hard to miss, but they live only in the southeastern United States.  Smaller reptiles, like lizards and snakes, can be found in your neighborhood.   If you want to go exploring to see these colorful and fascinating animals, here are some of the more common ones that you might find.

Collage of four U.S. state reptiles showing a turtle (box turtle), snake (garter snake), lizard (collared lizard), and crododilian (American alligator) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Let's begin with lizards.  Most common lizards are between four and twelve inches long, which is about the length of one or two of your hands.  If they see you looking for them, they will probably scurry away quickly, so approach them quietly.  Some lizards can go as fast as fifteen miles per hour, about as fast as you ride your bicycle, and very fast for a reptile!  One really interesting thing about lizards is that if another animal grabs their tail, the tail breaks off, and later the lizard grows a new one! All lizards have smooth dry skin, so do not worry about them being slimy.   One of the more common lizards all across the U.S. is the skink, which has a nice round body, short stubby legs, and is very shiny. Look for skinks during the warm part of the day in areas that no one goes near, like groups of rocks in a vacant lot.  Many skinks have long stripes along their bodies, and a solid color pink or blue tail!   

Another wonderful group of reptiles is the snake family.  When you see a snake, think about how it uses its muscles to move so differently than any other animal.   Snakes can move very fast, so don't be surprised if it slithers off quickly as soon as it realizes you are there.  Be very quiet!  Two of the snakes that are found throughout nearly all of the United States are the garter snake and the hognosed snake.  Garter snakes are very thin snakes, about the size of two or three pencils, and about as long as your arm.  They have long stripes on their bodies, the stripes are yellow and dark green in the eastern US, red-orange in the western US.  Look for them in grassy fields or in grasses near the edge of woods, especially in sunny spots where they can get warm.

Hognose snakes have funny turned up noses that they can use for digging, and that is how they get their name.  They are big brownish or greyish snakes with darker colored blotches on their bodies.  They like open sandy areas, and areas with a lot of fallen leaves on it.  Hognose snakes have unusual behaviors when they feel threatened.  If you get too close to a hognose, it may try to scare you by hissing at you and puffing out its head.  If it feels really scared, it can flop over and play dead.

Go exploring to see what reptiles you can find in your area.  Look on the Internet or in a book to see a few pictures of snakes and lizards in your area, so that you will know what to look for.  Enjoy!

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A Day in the Life of a Fascinating REPTILE, the ALLIGATOR

Let's travel to Florida to meet one of the largest of reptiles, the alligator.   Alligators live only in the southeastern states of our country, like Louisiana and Florida.   Most of the time alligators are pictured in swamps, but many people in Florida have reported seeing alligators in the lakes near their backyards.  Having a reptile the size of a lizard in the backyard is normal, but seeing an alligator in a pond is something to get excited about.  For such a big reptile, you might be surprised to find that it often isn't easy to spot an alligator in the water. 

Two American Alligators (Alligator mississippiensis), Florida, USA (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Alligators like to float just beneath the surface of the water, with only their eyes and nostrils breaking the surface of the water.  The rest of their big body just relaxes underneath the water, legs spread apart and the huge tail hanging partway down.  The alligator can float at exactly the right level by using his lungs as a kind of inflatable raft, and keeps just the right amount of air for only his eyes to stay above the water.   An alligator stays mostly under water for one of two reasons.  

The first reason is to keep his body temperature cool. Like other reptiles, the alligator's body temperature depends upon the temperature of the air or water around him.   The sun can get very hot in Florida, and since the alligator does not sweat, there has to be another way for him to keep cool.  He first opens his enormous mouth, and that will cool him down a little bit.  If the alligator is still too hot, he will go into the water to lower his body temperature even more.  

The second reason that an alligator stays in the water is to hide himself and wait for lunch to come by.  Alligators can catch an amazing variety of animals to eat, including birds, fish, turtles, and even deer.  They are quite at home in the water, swim very quickly, and can dive underwater and stay submerged for an hour, or even more.  An alligator usually catches birds sitting on the water, but can raise itself up with a few powerful strokes of its tail to snatch one flying near the surface of the water, or just taking off. 

Female alligators use their formidable mouths for another reason, to protect her babies.  Baby alligators can already catch their own food and swim, but they stay near their mother for a year or more in order to be safe from predators.  Even before they are born, the mother alligator stays by the nest she dug in the dirt to keep others (like turtles) from eating her eggs.  When the eggs are ready to hatch, the babies inside the eggs start making noises.  Some babies come out of the eggs by themselves, but other eggs are taken into the mother alligator's mouth, where she gently rolls them around until the baby alligator can come out of the hard shell.  

This brief introduction to one of the most ancient and interesting of reptiles can be used as a starting place to assemble your own collection of alligator facts.  Make sure to watch the next wildlife show about these big reptiles, and considering visiting one the next time you take a trip to Florida.

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Gigantic REPTILES!

Of all the reptiles, we are usually most interested in the largest ones - alligators, crocodiles, komodo dragons, and the big snakes.   These snakes have songs written about them, and the anaconda was even the star of a movie!  Not only are these reptiles amazing due to their size, they also have many other interesting points.

Royal Python or Ball python, Python regius
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Let's begin with the standard question, exactly how big are they?  The largest of the big snakes is the anaconda, which has been reported to grow to thirty-seven feet long.  You can't realize how long a reptile this is until you measure from your room down the hallway, probably well into the living room.  A truly enormous snake, and one of the longest reptiles ever!  This snake spends most of its time in the water hiding in the water plants of South America.

The other four giant snakes are pythons, and are found in Africa and Asia.  They grow to between 22 feet and 32 feet, depending on the species.  If you see a python in a zoo or other animal show, it is probably a reticulated python from Southeast Asia, due to its beautiful color pattern and the fact that it does well living in captivity.  How do regular snakes compare with these giants?  Most other snakes are much smaller, and even few rarely even grow to twelve feet.  

The giant snakes can live up to twenty years in captivity.  When they are young they can be eaten by hawks or other predators that eat smaller snakes, but no animal would try to threaten or eat a full grown giant snake.  The only real enemies of these great reptiles are intestinal parasites, diseases, and man. 

The giant snakes really can swallow a man whole!  Very few cases of that have been reported though.  Once a giant snake has had a large supper, it would be the same as if it ate four hundred average sized meals.  This means that sometimes these reptiles might go a long time between meals, maybe as infrequently as once a year. 

The giant snakes have extremely strong muscles, and use them both in movement and in hunting their prey.  Their jaws are also very strong, but that isn't as important as how wide their mouths open in order to eat their prey.  Generally the giant snakes kill their prey before the snake begins to swallow them.  The giant snakes rely on squeezing their prey (which is why they are often called constrictors), but they generally squeeze only hard enough to prevent the prey from breathing sufficiently, and eventually suffocate the prey.  They do not need or intend to squeeze hard enough to crush or break bones, as people sometimes think.

A constrictor throws several coils around the body of its prey, very neatly, and at each breath simply applies a little more pressure until the prey can no longer breathe.  There are stories of skulls of goats being broken, but this is not necessary and not even the way that the constrictors work.  One interesting behavior is that sometimes the giant snakes will break bones in order to "fold" a victim in two in order to swallow it more easily. 

Many snake handlers consider the giant snakes to be quite intelligent, and find that the giant snakes are easily handled and come to recognize and accept their trainers.  They are among the most fascinating of reptiles, and make sure you visit them if they are in a nearby zoo or other naturalist area.

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Dangerous REPTILES

When people decide to buy reptiles for pets, some inevitably cross the line of safety and wisdom.  Although it may seem thrilling to own a pet that is harmful, it's best left up to the experts and people who are trained to preserve wildlife.

An eyelash viper, Bothriechis schlegelii , taken at Melbourne zoo in Australia. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Underestimating a dangerous reptile can mean a quick and certain death to the uneducated and careless pet owner.  But if you're determined to own a dangerous reptile, at least make sure you are aware of all the possible safety precautions.  Be fully informed as to what steps to take should you incur injury from contact with your pet.

A pet may harm an owner for several reasons.  A reptile has instincts that are inbred.  If you make the mistake of smelling like food, you will be in danger of being mistaken for food.  There's also the danger of underfeeding your reptile and having them strike out in desperation from starvation.  If you startle the reptile, you're likely to be harmed.  If the reptile is injured or ill, the pain may cause them to strike out.  Although it is easy to want to blame the reptile, you must take into account the reasons it may have chosen to bite, scratch, or otherwise harm someone.

Neglect to keep the cage, terrarium, or other enclosure secure at all times is crucial to your safety and to the safety of the reptile.

Some snakes have teeth, some have venomous fangs, and some have constriction to use as weapons.  Whatever the case may be, you can be certain it will be painful to the recipient.  Vipers and rattlesnakes are two dangerous snakes that use their poisonous fangs to inject venom into their prey or attacker.  Vipers can grow as long as 6 feet and don't need daylight to attack.  The pits between their eyes and nostrils alert them to their prey.  A beautifully dangerous reptile, the golden eyelash viper is a bright lemon yellow color.

Snakes aren't the only dangerous reptiles, nor are they the only dangerous reptiles chosen for pets.  Crocodiles and caymans are also big predators.  They latch onto their prey with their many teeth and powerful jaws, and then they drag the larger victims underwater to drown them.  Crocodiles have been known to gobble snakes for treats!

American alligators can be seen in many museums or zoos, live in exhibits.  Well known in the deep south of Louisiana, they are not only predators but also are hunted for food and to be cut up into trinkets sold to tourists.

The alligator disguises itself as a log in swamp water and is camouflaged very well.  They live in swamps and bayous from Texas to North Carolina.  Florida has an abundance of inland water that provides a perfect habitat for these reptiles.  Their diet of fish, birds, and small animals along with their size and vicious capabilities make them unwelcome to most as pet material.  Their habitat is hard to create as well.

You can tell the difference in crocodiles and alligators by the shape of their snouts and the way the teeth lay when the jaws are shut.  The alligator is able to conceal its teeth inside its mouth while the crocodile is not.

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Tips For Buying A PET SNAKE

Buying a snake can be a sizable investment. Getting a snake requires making a commitment to the pet's care and well-being. It is important to do your research so you know that the particular species or breed is something you will enjoy owning in the years to come. Find out how difficult they are to feed and house before you buy. Also find out about the snake's temperament.

Remember that some snakes get extremely large, can be dangerous, and live a long time. Lifespans of over twenty years are not uncommon. Don't assume getting rid of that unwanted reptile will be a piece of cake either.

Negev Zoo snake
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Another thing to check out before buying is the laws of your particular city. In many places, snakes of certain varieties are restricted as pets.

That being said, it's a good idea to get the enclosure, or vivarium, ready for the snake to move in before buying one. Different species have different requirements in heat, humidity, and size of enclosure, so again, do your homework.

Before buying, look your snake over for indicators of poor health. It's a good idea to hang around the pet store or breeders' for a while, just watching the snakes for clues to individual snakes' personalities. The eyes should be bright and shiny. If they appear dull, it's a sign that the snake is about to shed its skin. Wait until it has shed so you can get a better idea of how it looks.

It is important to get a snake that has been hatched or birthed by a reputable breeder. Make sure the snake is accustomed to eating pre-killed food before you buy it.

The best place to go to find a reputable breeder is your local herpetological society. Most areas have herp clubs for people who are into reptiles. If you're lucky, you might get to attend a herp show in your area. Breeders attend these gatherings and show off their stock. Search online for information about herp shows you could attend. (Herpetology is the branch of biology that studies reptiles and amphibians. "Herp" is a common nickname for these animals.)

When studying the choices of pet snake species, get to know the Latin names. Common names vary with pet stores and with regions. By knowing exactly what species of snake you want, you can save yourself a lot of trouble. Different species of similar snakes, such as boas or pythons, have different temperaments and grow to different sizes. Just knowing it is a boa or a python is not specific enough to know for sure what you are getting.

Finally, there are some people who just should not own pet snakes. These include homes with children under five and anyone with a compromised immune system, because there is a small possibility of a snake carrying salmonella. The large pythons and constrictors can be a danger to young children, too. (And to everyone else, too! Be extremely careful, and know what you're getting into.)

Educate yourself before you start shopping for that cool looking snake. If it’s your first snake, consider getting a And prepare to be in it for the long haul.

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What Types of LIZARDS Make Good Reptile Pets?

There is nothing wrong with wanting a reptile for a pet, provided of course you first arm yourself with knowledge.  Education is the key to being a responsible owner.  Of course, there are instances when you may not first get the chance.  Suppose your well-meaning relative decided it would be a good idea to give you an exotic pet for a gift, not thinking of the reptile's welfare should you be unable to care for it or uneducated about its care.  But, of course there are always exceptions to the rule.

An Eastern Bearded Dragon displays its beard in a threatening position. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are ways of choosing your pet when you do decide to obtain a reptile.  You can choose to buy a pet to fit the cage you are able to get, or you can buy a cage to fit the pet you want.  Either way you go, please make sure you take into account that the reptile will grow and must be able to fit into the enclosure as it gets bigger.  Please refrain from purchasing the reptile if you will be unsure about being able to afford a larger cage later on or if you won't have the space.  There are plenty of other choices you can make that will fit into your budget.

A Leopard Gecko is a popular lizard choice for people who want a reptile that will be smaller than the Iguana.  The Iguana has been known to reach 7 feet in length!  A bigger lizard means a bigger cage and a bigger food bill.  The Leopard Gecko only reaches 10 inches.  There's obviously quite a difference there.  First time owners have more success when they start small and build up to the other interests.  This lizard also stays active at night, so night owls may get more enjoyment from it than someone who wants to interact or watch their reptile during the day.  The Leopard Gecko can live up to 15 years and is easy for a beginner to care for.

A Bearded Dragon is a popular lizard choice.  They're fond of crickets, but they also need fresh vegetables and fruits like the Iguana.  The Bearded Dragon looks fierce and beautiful when it fans out its spiky beard.  These reptiles can grow to 20 inches.  Blue skinks are known for their blue tongues.  Skinks can grow anywhere from 12 to 20 inches, depending on which type you get.  They enjoy a diet of earthworms.  This may be easier to stomach than the diet of mice and rats a snake requires!

Another common lizard choice is that of the Green Anole, also known as the American chameleon.  While it isn't actually related to the chameleon, it is able to change colors from green to dark brown.  This reptile only grows to 9 inches normally and eats insects.

Whatever your choice of lizard or other reptile as a pet, just make sure you do your research before you purchase.  If you are given the animal as a gift, please educate yourself as quickly as possible to prevent unintentional harm to the reptile.

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CRESTED GECKO Health: Keeping Your Crested Gecko Fit and Healthy

Crested geckos are some of the easiest reptiles to keep as pets, providing that a few very simple rules are followed.

• Crested geckos require a nutrient and calcium rich balanced diet, in order for them to grow properly and live a long and healthy life.
• They also require a temperature gradient in order for them to thermo-regulate and better digest the nutrients in their food.
• They also require plenty of space to move around, and being arboreal tree dwellers they also require a lot of climbing branches / perches.

The New Caledonian Crested Gecko (Rhacodactylus ciliatus). (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The most common health problems that occur in cresties in captivity are usually a result of one of the above not being offered, or not being offered to the correct standard.

Below you will find an insight into the most common of these problems and ways to ensure that they are prevented.

MBD: Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:

Metabolic bone disease in geckos is most often caused due to a lack of the correct nutrients being provided in their diets.

Metabolic bone disease is a deficiency of calcium, which results in the gecko utilising the calcium reserves from its own body and skeleton to supplement this lack in calcium.

By using the reserves of calcium in its own body, the gecko's skeleton is 'warped' and misshapen due to the bones becoming very weak and pliable.

This often results in permanent disfigurement of the gecko, especially in the form of bumps, twists and dips in the spine and a rotating of the hips, causing the tail to flop or jut-out at an unusual angle.

Metabolic bone disease can also cause a weakening of the jaw, resulting in the gecko finding eating much more difficult.

The jaw is often too weak for the gecko to close it itself, and the jaw remains permanently open.

Due to the weakening of the bones, MBD can also at its worst result in numerous broken bones.

A gecko with MBD finds it more difficult to climb, and often lose the 'stickiness' on their feet and tail. If a gecko with MBD falls from a height, broken bones are usually the result.

Metabolic bone disease in its latter stages is a horrific sight to witness, and the gecko is twisted and contorted out of recognition.

In younger and crested gecko breeding females it is extra important to supplement feeding properly. Hatchlings put a lot of calcium into bone growth, and breeding females use an extraordinary amount of calcium when producing eggs.

Providing a healthy, nutrient rich and balanced gecko diet is the most foolproof way to help prevent your crested gecko developing MBD.

Preventing gecko Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:

• Gut load live food prior to feeding making them more nutritious
• Dust live food with nutrient powders, Calcium, and/or Calcium D3
• Provide a good meal replacement gecko diet powder
• UVB light can also help to prevent MBD, as it helps the gecko to absorb and utilise the calcium in its diet more efficiently
• Too much phosphorous in a diet can prevent calcium being absorbed. Avoid foods with high phosphorus content.

Floppy tail syndrome: FTS in crested geckos

Floppy tail syndrome in geckos is when the gecko's tail literally flops in an abnormal direction. It is most noticeable when the gecko is laying upside-down, flat against the side of its enclosure, at which point the tail usually flops down over its head or at a jaunty angle.

A healthy gecko tail would rest against the glass in its natural position.

It is thought that Floppy tail syndrome results mainly from a captive environment as cresties in the wild would rarely come across a surface as flat, smooth and vertical as an enclosure wall.

It is believed that this flat surface is what can contribute to FTS in crested geckos, as laying on this vertical surface for extended periods of time results in the tail 'flopping' over due to gravity, and weakens the muscles at the tails base.

At its worst, floppy tail syndrome is believed to be able to twist the pelvis of the gecko, predominantly due to the excessive weight put on the pelvic area when the tail flops to the side.

Due to this it is not advised to breed a female crested gecko with FTS, as she could well encounter problems trying to pass the eggs.

Although no concrete evidence is available, it can be assumed that providing plenty of climbing and hiding places for your gecko could help to prevent them from sleeping on the enclosure walls.

However it is still not fully understood whether this is the actual underlying cause of FTS. Many believe it could be a genetic deformity, and as such it could be passed from parents to their young although at the minute this seems unlikely.

Heat Stress in Crested Geckos

Heat Stress in crested geckos is the number one killer of these usually very hardy and easy to care for reptiles.

Crested geckos will begin to show stress if kept at temperatures above 28C for prolonged periods of time.

It is much easier to maintain your crested gecko enclosure at temperatures closer to around 25C than to risk over exposure to higher temperatures.

That being said you can allow parts of your enclosure to reach 28C - for example directly below the basking bulb - so long as your pet gecko can choose to move into a cooler area if they wish.

Higher temperatures only become a deadly problem when your gecko is forced to endure them constantly or for long periods of time without the option to cool down.

Research has shown that crested gecko exposed to temperatures of 30C without being able to cool down, can and will very likely die within an hour.

Young/small geckos are even more prone to heat stress so it is best to always allow them the choice to move to the cooler end of their temperature range.

Cleaning your crested gecko vivarium:

Keeping your gecko enclosure clean will help to prevent illnesses linked with bad hygiene, bacteria and moulds.

The crested gecko tank / enclosure will periodically need a thorough clean when it becomes dirty.

I find it easiest to spot-clean the enclosures every day or two, removing uneaten food and excrement and wiping the sides of the enclosure with damp paper towel.

There are numerous reptile-safe disinfectants available now and these can be diluted with water to ensure a safe environment for your gecko after cleaning and you can use newspaper to clean up smears and streaks on glass enclosures.

It is advised to do a thorough complete clean of the enclosure and all of its contents once in a while. I tend to do a big clean out every month to help stop any unwanted bacteria building up.

With regular cleaning and upkeep your crested gecko enclosure should not create an unwanted odour or create mould/bacteria.

Choosing a healthy crested gecko:

A healthy gecko:

• Will have clean and clear nose and eyes. Eyes will be bright and shiny and will not be sunken into the head.
• Will not have layers of retained shed skin stuck at its extremities. Healthy geckos shed in a few hours and shed should not remain much longer than this.
• Will not be dehydrated: Dehydrated geckos will have loose skin, sunken eyes and will be somewhat lethargic. Dehydration often results in the gecko looking thin in comparison to a well hydrated gecko.
• Will be alert when handled, a unhealthy animal will be limp and possibly shaky in your hand and will show little to no interest or reaction in being handled
• Should have a plump, straight tail that can 'grasp' onto objects. A good test of this is if the gecko wraps its tail around your finger.
• Should have almost Velcro like feet. If the gecko is failing to stick/climb - this can be a sign of MBD or retained shed.

By Daniel Sharples Take a look at our website dedicated to the care and husbandry of crested geckos and leopard geckos. geckocity.co.uk Thank you for taking the time to read our article, we hope it was informative. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Constructing the Perfect TURTLE or TERRAPIN Tank

If  you have decided to bring home a pet turtle or terrapin, you should know what  is necessary to house them comfortably. Depending on the kind of pet turtle or  terrapin that you choose, each has its own needs and requirements for living a  healthy and happy life in your home. Generally there are a few needs that most  turtles have in common as far as their habitat is concerned.

A hatchling Ornate Terrapin (Terrapene ornata ornata) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The  first thing to keep in mind is being able to provide them with a comfortable  environment that consists of a wet habitat and a dry habitat. This can be done by  constructing a turtle tank with both a wet area and a dry area in it. There are  certain things that you should provide no matter what type or gender of turtle  or terrapin you have.

The  wet aquarium should consist of water that is at the right temperature for them.  It need to constant filtration and regular cleaning. It should also include the  right levels of other materials such as rocks, plants and comfortable places  for your turtle to bask on.

Your aquarium should maintain a constant  temperature between environments to help your pet turtle or terrapin adapt to  the change between wet and dry more easily. You should also make sure you place  a constant supply of fresh water in a shallow container in the dry environment  for them.

Their  feedings should be done in water as they cannot swallow otherwise and you will  need to keep both environments clean on a regular basis.

Some pet owners make  the mistake of thinking that their pet turtles and pet terrapins do not require  a lot of care and cleaning, but in point of fact turtles would keep themselves  very clean in their natural environment. So you need to make sure there are  kept safe from any possibility of bacteria or soft-shell disease.

The  water should not be too deep and the basking ground should be made of small  pebbles and flat stones so that it is more comfortable for the turtle.

The  basking ground should either be in a very sunny spot, with natural, unfiltered  sunlight or be lit by an ultraviolet (or UV) lamp. Reptile UV lamps are  available at most pet stores and you should certainly invest in one for the  health and well-being of your pet turtle.

Liked this article? Read more at: Turtle and Terrapin Tank Article Directory: Article Dashboard

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BALL PYTHON

Description: 

Ball pythons grow to about 4 feet in length and some may grow to about 5 feet in length. They become nicely rounded if properly fed. They have anal spurs. These are single claws that appear on either side of the vent. Males have longer spurs than females and males also have smaller heads than females. They have blotches on a brown or bluish-brown background color. Colors may vary but there will be shades of yellow found in all ball pythons. 

Female ball python (Python regius) brooding a clutch of eggs. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Basic Care: 

Glass tanks can be used for housing with a fixed glass top. Ball pythons are more cunning than other snakes when it comes to escaping from the cage. A ten gallon tank can be used for a hatchling. A young adult will need a 20 gallon tank, and a full grown adult will need a 30 gallon tank. 

These snakes will adjust to the environment it is housed in, but will normally require a more humid area when it is shedding. If one notices that the snake has not eaten for a very long time though it is necessary, and it begins to lose weight, it must be shown to a vetenary. 

Diet: 

In the wild ball pythons eat amphibians, other snakes, small mammals and birds. They do not eat mice in the wild. In captivity one has to let them grow into the activity of being fed with mice. These snakes do not need to eat regularly and some may even live for up to a year without any food. 

Baby ball pythons can be fed with mice that have already been killed. If the hatchling is smaller than usual, a smaller mouse can be used as the feed. Adults may be fed with larger mice. These snakes do not need a regular feeding time table. Fresh water must be provided daily, as the ball python like others drinks and also soaks itself in the water. 

Heat and light: 

For the snake to be healthy proper temperature range must be maintained. A temperature of 80 to 85 ºF with a 90 degree spot for basking must be maintained in the day time. The temperature may be around 70 to 75 ºF in the cooler area. Heating pads may be used under the glass enclosure. 

Hot rocks will not be suitable because ball pythons are susceptible to thermal burns. Special lights are not needed, and a low wattage bulb can be used to view the snake in the day time. Ball pythons are especially prone to getting burned and so the light must not be kept directly above them. 

Environment: 

Ball pythons in the wild are found in generally temperate to arid areas. Initially paper towels can be used as substrate in the housing. This will also help determine if there are any mites present and also the feces can be monitored. Shredded cypress or fur bark can be used after the ball python is used to living in the enclosure. Pine and aspen shavings are not recommended, as they may get lodged in the mouth causing respiratory problems. Soiled shavings must be removed to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungus. 

An empty cardboard box or a log must be placed inside the cage for the ball python to use it as a hiding place. One must make sure the box is large enough for the entire snake to fit inside. The hiding place should not be too big as the snake likes to have a small place to hide. Fake branches and greenery may be placed inside the cage for the snake to climb and hang on. 

Behavior: 

They are active around dawn and dusk. They are comfortable on the ground and in the trees. They curl up tightly and put their heads in the centre when they become nervous. They are curious and gentle. Some ball pythons will not shed for a few months when they are initially in captivity. This means they are highly stressed with the surroundings.

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