2017-04-16

How to Care for LIVE AQUARIUM PLANTS

Plants play an important role in aquarium life. They help to absorb nitrites that are toxic to the fish.  In fact there are some plant only aquariums.  There are many different varieties of aquatic plants.  Tubers are a type of plant that needs to be anchored by the root to the bottom of the tank.  They may be tied or simply buried underneath the substrate in the bottom of the aquarium.  There are also floating plants.  As their name suggests they simply float in the tank they do not need to be anchored and will not usually require fertilizer. The only regular care required is to make sure that water droplets are not regularly deposited on the leaves, as this will cause decay.

Water lettuce in a home aquarium
Water lettuce in a home aquarium (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Water lettuce and Lily pads are examples of floating plants.  Rooted plants, like tubers need to be anchored to the bottom of the tank.  It is suggested that the roots be tied to pieces of rock or wood.  These species usually grow to be fairly tall and will add length to an aquarium.  When planting these, remember to allow plenty of room for growth. The roots will grow outwards and require additional space.   Another type of aquatic plant is known as cuttings.  These plants may be transplanted from other thriving plants, without have to root them.  Cuttings should be planted individually.  They will grow vertically and sprout shoots at the joints of the leaves.  When these shoots grow to be a couple of inches, it is time to cut them and plant them individually.  

Live plants may be kept in aquariums alone or with fish.  The plants may even be used as a food source for some species of omnivorous fish.  At the very least, they will provide shelter and a feeling of refuge for the fish. All plants require some form of light in order to thrive through photosynthesis.  Check the specifics on the types of plants with your local retailer.  Some plants will thrive on the waste put out by the fish in the aquarium, while others will require regular fertilization.  Again check with your supplier for compatibility and feeding requirements.  When purchasing plants, make sure that they are true aquatic plants.  Live plants should be pruned weekly. Dead or broken leaves should be removed daily.



A live plant aquarium will require the same basic equipment needed for an aquarium containing fish.  The basics are as follows.  You will need a tank, some sort of filtration system, lighting and some basic cleaning tools.  The plants are fairly easy to care for, but you do have to keep up with your regular maintenance.  Synthetic plants may be a good alternative to live plants, if you are not willing to make the investment in live plants.  Faux plants have come a long way in recent years.  So much so, that your fish may not even notice the difference. Whether you choose live or synthetic plants, they will add interest and life to any aquarium.

2017-04-15

Fact Sheet: HARLEQUIN RASBORA - Trigonostigma heteromorpha

(Original title: Harlequin Rasbora Fact Sheet)

English: Harlequin rasbora, Trigonostigma hete...
Harlequin rasbora, Trigonostigma heteromorpha (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A Peaceful and Delightful Fish

I have grown up with the idea that this delightful fish's scientific name was Rasbora heteromorpha. This used to be correct, with the heteromorpha referring to the fact that this fish is not a typical Rasbora. Now the name has been changed to Trigonostigma heteromorpha because of the several differences between the Harlequin Rasbora and the other Rasboras.

It is also called the "Rasbora", the Harlequin and the Red Rasbora.

It is native to Singapore, Malaysia, Sumatra and parts of Thailand. It is found in small streams, often ones coming from peat bogs where the water is stained brown with tannins. The water tends to be soft, acidic and low in total salts. This is one of the little fish that can be found in the small ditches in Singapore.

Although I have seen reports of Harlequin Rasboras reaching nearly 2 inches (5cm) nearly all are less than this. They will live for about 6 years,

Water Conditions
The Harlequin Rasbora is a tropical fish and temperatures of between 21 degrees C (70 degrees F) and 28 degrees C (85 degrees F) are suitable. I recommend a temperature setting of 24 degrees C (75 degrees F) for a mixed tank including this fish Although the water in its native habitat tends to be soft, acidic and low in salts, it is able to adapt to living in a wide range of water conditions, and can live happily in neutral water somewhat harder than it is used to.

Live plants are a very good idea with the Harlequin Rasbora.


Companions
The Harlequin Rasbora is very much a schooling fish and a reasonable sized group should be kept. A school of a dozen Harlequin Rasboras is a beautiful and striking sight. Although it is an Asian fish of a different group, its characteristics are similar to many of the small South American tetras.

I would avoid large or very aggressive fish, but the Harlequin Rasbora is an ideal fish for a community tank of small fish. Suitable companion species are Lemon Tetras, Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Emperor Tetras, Head and Tail Light Tetras, Glowlight Tetras, Corydoras Catfish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows and Zebra Danios.

Breeding
One of the reasons it was removed from the Rasbora genus was its breeding behaviour. The other Rasboras are egg scatterers while the Harlequin Rasbora attaches its eggs to the underside of leaves, turning upside down to do it.

In contrast to the ease of keeping the Harlequin Rasbora, the conditions for breeding need to mimic the natural habitat of this fish fairly well. A temperature of 28 degrees C (82 degrees F) is suitable. Soft, acidic water is essential; a ph of 6 with hardness less than 3 degrees is alright. A high level of tannins in the water is also recommended.




2017-04-14

NORTHERN LEOPARD FROG - Lithobates pipiens

Northern Leopard Frog - Lithobates pipiens




2017-04-13

Tips on Raising Healthy GLASS CATFISH

The glass catfish or Kryptopterus bicirrhis and its smaller relative the ghost catfish are native to Indonesia. They inhabit the large rivers and turbid waters of Borneo, Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula and the Chao Phrayaa and Mekongg drainage basins. They live near the shorelines in water with strong currents. They are diurnal predators (active in daylight) whose diet consists mainly of true water bugs in the wild.

Glass catfish
Photo by Matt Ryall 


Glass catfish are some of the most unusual fish you can buy for a freshwater aquarium. Their bodies are totally devoid of scales and their skin and meaty tissue is completely transparent. You can see right trough to its bones and internal organs and out the other side of their bodies.

As with all Catfish, they have barbells on either side of their mouths.

Glass catfish have a docile temperament. They make good community fish as long as they are in the company of similarly mild mannered fish. Glass catfish are a medium sized fish. They grow to about four inches in length. They are mid-tank swimmers.

The shoaling instinct runs extremely strong in these creatures. A glass catfish will not survive without another member of its own species in the tank. If you have two and one dies, the other will die shortly thereafter if you do not add another glass catfish to your tank. It is, therefore, advisable to keep at least four of them at a time.

Glass catfish are every bit as fragile as their name. They have been known not to survive the trip home from the fish store. Once home, their chances of survival are significantly increased in a heavily planted aquarium. They are a shy species and will fare much better given plenty of places to hide.

Glass catfish prefer neutral to slightly acidic water (pH 6.8-7.0). They are better suite for a water temperature a little cooler than some other tropical fish. The ideal temperature range is 70-79 degrees Fahrenheit. They function best in subdued lighting. And you want to have a filtering system that provides plenty of water flow to simulate the currents they are accustomed to living in. Under premium condition they have a life expectancy of 6 to 8 years.

Glass catfish are egg layers. Attempts to spawn them in captivity have thus far failed. So the ones you see at the fish store have been recently removed from their native environment. They may very well suffer from escalated stress levels until they adapt to their new surroundings.



Remember, these are not commercially raise fish. In the wild their diet consists primarily of true water bugs. They are carnivores that are accustomed to eating live food. In order to make help them adapt to their new environment you should start out by feeding them brine shrimp. Small insect larvae are preferable if you can find them. They will eventually learn to eat freeze-dried, frozen food and possibly even tropical fish flakes. But you still want to supplement their diet with live protein to insure their continued hardiness. These are, after all, rather delicate creatures.

    By Stephen J Broy
    The mere mention of the word "saltwater" sends shivers up many freshwater aquarium owners' spines. In the past decade a new segment of the aquarium industry has been created for home aquarium owners; the Jellyfish Aquarium Fish Tank. Jellyfish aquariums are much easier to maintain than traditional saltwater tanks. Pet Moon Jellyfish look absolutely incredible under a fading LED lighting system.
    Article Source: EzineArticles


2017-04-12

Constructing the Perfect TURTLE or TERRAPIN Tank

If  you have decided to bring home a pet turtle or terrapin, you should know what  is necessary to house them comfortably. Depending on the kind of pet turtle or  terrapin that you choose, each has its own needs and requirements for living a  healthy and happy life in your home. Generally there are a few needs that most  turtles have in common as far as their habitat is concerned.

English: A hatchling Ornate Terrapin (Terrapen...
A hatchling Ornate Terrapin (Terrapene ornata ornata) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The  first thing to keep in mind is being able to provide them with a comfortable  environment that consists of a wet habitat and a dry habitat. This can be done by  constructing a turtle tank with both a wet area and a dry area in it. There are  certain things that you should provide no matter what type or gender of turtle  or terrapin you have.

The  wet aquarium should consist of water that is at the right temperature for them.  It need to constant filtration and regular cleaning. It should also include the  right levels of other materials such as rocks, plants and comfortable places  for your turtle to bask on.

Your aquarium should maintain a constant  temperature between environments to help your pet turtle or terrapin adapt to  the change between wet and dry more easily. You should also make sure you place  a constant supply of fresh water in a shallow container in the dry environment  for them.

Their  feedings should be done in water as they cannot swallow otherwise and you will  need to keep both environments clean on a regular basis.

Some pet owners make  the mistake of thinking that their pet turtles and pet terrapins do not require  a lot of care and cleaning, but in point of fact turtles would keep themselves  very clean in their natural environment. So you need to make sure there are  kept safe from any possibility of bacteria or soft-shell disease.





The  water should not be too deep and the basking ground should be made of small  pebbles and flat stones so that it is more comfortable for the turtle.

The  basking ground should either be in a very sunny spot, with natural, unfiltered  sunlight or be lit by an ultraviolet (or UV) lamp. Reptile UV lamps are  available at most pet stores and you should certainly invest in one for the  health and well-being of your pet turtle.




2017-04-11

A List Of Common FISH DISEASES And Their Symptoms

1. Bacterial Diseases in Fish

Bacteria are a very common cause of complaint for fish breeders. There are many bacterial diseases in fish caused due to pathogenic bacteria. These bacteria can either attack the fish externally, or can enter into the body of the fish through the skin and can damage internal organs, even leading to death. Fin rot and bacterial gill disease are the most common bacterial attacks in fishes, in which the fins and the gills are infected respectively. If the bacteria have managed to gain entry into the body, it is known as systemic infection. Bacteria can also cause ulcers and lesions on the body of the fish. Bacterial infections are easily apparent externally as ulcerous marks or red irritations on the skin of the fish. Bacterial infections are very common in koi fish. 

2. Fish Lice

Fish lice are scientifically termed as argulus, and being about a centimeter in size, they are among the largest parasites found in the animal world. They are very detrimental to the health of the fish, because they can suck out the fluids from the body of the fluids by clamping their proboscis like mouth into the bodies of the fish. 

Lice are easily to identify on the bodies of the fish because they are clearly visible. However, it is necessary to carry a careful inspection of the body of the fish, especially in the hidden areas behind the fins. Lice may appear as dark spots when they are not moving. If there are too many lice, the fish will be quite agitated and will move their body a lot. 



3. Flukes in Fish

Flukes are parasites in fish that are harmless in small numbers, but can be fatal to the fish in large numbers. Flukes are small, about 2 mm in length, and are almost invisible to the naked human eye. But these flukes have hooks through which they clamp to the bodies of the fish. Flukes can suck out the body fluids from the fish and even cause their death. The significant threat from flukes is that one fluke requires only one fish to complete its lifecycle, and therefore there is more reason why the fluke will remain clamped to the fish. Flukes have been considered to be the most difficult of the fish parasites to treat, though treatments with malachite and formalin often show positive results in stronger doses. 

4. Ich

Commonly known as ich, ichthyobodo or costia is a very common parasite that is found on the bodies of fish. Several fish can live with this parasite showing no signs at all. In fact, in small numbers, ich is harmless. The defenses of the fish can keep the number of ich under control. But when fish suffer from some other disease, the defenses are broken and then ich begins to multiply. Ich can multiply at a very fast rate. In no time, the fish will show a large amount of ich on its body, its breathing will become labored and shortly, it will retreat and isolate itself from the other fish. When this stage arrives, ich often proves fatal to the fish.





2017-04-10

Advice on Changing the AQUARIUM SALT WATER



Our aquarium
Photo by FromSandToGlass 

If left in the tank the waste materials will turn the water cloudy, or even yellow and can cause a buildup of algae on the aquarium's sides. Plus it can also prevent the fish and corals (if you have any in yours) from growing in the way that they should, along with causing them stress, and this in turn could lead to them becoming ill. So the question you should be asking yourself is not should I change the salt water in the aquarium, but when should it be changed?

When Is The Right Time To Change Aquarium Salt Water?
Ideally you shouldn't be leaving the tank until such a time (maybe several months) before you change the aquarium salt water and provide all the tropical fish and invertebrates within it, a new clean environment. The big problem is that many people choose to remove the tropical aquarium fish and invertebrates from the tank, and then clean out the water completely. Unfortunately this could do your tropical fish, invertebrates and the reef inside more harm than good.

Rather what one should be doing is change a small amount of the salt water on a regular basis, and keep the fish and invertebrates in the tank as you do it. Ideally the best ratio when it comes to changing the salt water is to remove about 1/3 of the water from the tank and replace with the same amount of water.

Simple Steps To Take When Changing Aquarium Salt Water
  1. First off you need to unplug every piece of electrical equipment, other than the light which is connected to the aquarium. The pumps and filters if left on, can actually overheat if they discover there is insufficient water in the tank. Also heater systems if left on when new water is added to the tank, may well cause the glass to crack (remember how much that tank initially cost and the price you will have to pay to replace it).
  2. Take an aquarium scrubber or scraper accessories and use this in order to clean the inside of the glass of the aquarium to help remove any buildup of algae or waste deposits that have come from the fish food on them. You need to do this very slowly and gently in order to prevent the fish species from becoming panicked.
  3. After scraping the glass you need to take out any plants within the tank and remove any dead or dying parts on them. Also stir up the gravel in the base (be careful as some fish like to bury themselves in it). As you do, bank some of it high towards the back corners of the aquarium and leave the levels lower in the middle and the front. Give the gravel time to settle and you will see waste deposits accumulate on top of the lower lying gravel.
  4. Now you are ready to siphon off some of the aquarium salt water (remember only to take away around a third of the tank's water and no more). As you siphon off the salt water using one of the specialist aquarium products that allows you to drain water from the tank at the same time as removing the water, try to remove as much of the debris that has accumulated as possible.
  5. Next you need to replace the water that has been removed and it is best to use aged rather than freshwater. This you can do by either letting it stand for some time or by adding certain salt mix products to it. You should only ever add aquarium salt to your water and never just sea salt. Also make sure that the temperature of the water you are putting into the tank is within 2 degrees Fahrenheit of the temperature of the water already in the tank. Then add some aquarium salt if you want.

Ultimate Secrets to Saltwater Aquarium Fish and Corals



Finally, all one now needs to do after changing the water in your tank is to plug back in and turn on the pieces of equipment that you originally turned off at the start. Also why not at this stage give the cover of your tank a cleaning and the light along with the outsides of your tank.