Big, Beautiful Parson's CHAMELEON

Out of all the chameleons in the world, the Parson's Chameleon is said to be the largest when it comes to weight. They reach the size of a house cat, and the tail can stretch to be longer than the body. These large reptiles are native to eastern Madagascar and are very popular among collectors due to their size and also the wide appeal of the chameleon's appearance.

Parson's Chameleon - Photo0: Wikimedia

These brilliantly colored lizards are characterized by their gray or brownish colorings as juveniles, but the colors and patterns change depending upon the different life stage they may be in. Dark banding runs diagonally across the thick body of this chameleon. In adulthood, colors that are present include greens and blues. Some males can exhibit orange eyelids and even yellow or white lips. A dorsal crest is sometimes present in males, as well as two rostral appendages. They look like two tiny horns.

The natural habitat for this amazing reptile is low and mid-altitude rainforests. They seem to have a preference of being near moving water and are very often found next to streams. They are very seldom if ever seen on the ground, instead preferring the canopy of trees and the security and prey they provide.

The Parson's chameleon is an omnivore, munching regularly on small lizards, birds and perhaps even small mice when it's looking for a meaty meal. Other items on the menu for this bruiser include leaves, flowers, and also many different kinds of fruits. For a water source, many owners choose to use some sort of drip system.

Chameleons are notorious for not drinking from standing water, preferring to take their hydration as it drips from leaves or trickles from a waterfall. Like other chameleons, the Parson's chameleon can extend its tongue to one and a half times its body length to capture prey.

Perhaps mostly because of its size, the Parson's chameleon seems to be popular with people who keep reptiles. It is a particularly slow moving specimen and may appear to be a bit lazy. This should not, however, fool you into thinking you can house this chameleon in a smaller sized cage. It still needs plenty of room to roam about. Room- sized cages that offer plenty of hiding spots seem to make the Parson's chameleon happy.

When it comes to home habitat, the Parson's chameleon has requirements that are similar to other chameleons. They need things to climb on, preferably live vegetation. They prefer the temperature to be on the warm side, up to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not dipping below 65 degrees at night. Humidity should be on the high side to mimic their natural habitat in the wild. We recommend 80 to 100 percent humidity levels.

Cages should be constructed from sturdy materials. No glass or plastic, as it doesn't allow for any air exchange within the cage. They live in the trees - they need plenty of ventilation. Parsons is a solitary creature and will exhibit signs of stress when they are subjected to overcrowding, and with Parsons, two's a crowd unless it's time to mate.

Breeding males will actually butt heads to try to establish who is more dominant. The females only breed once every two years. They can lay up to 25 eggs. The eggs incubate for an incredible twenty months.

Knowing what to look for when selecting a Parson's chameleon can help with your enjoyment of this fascinating reptile. Remember, the life span of these guys can be over six years. Check to see if the skin springs back when it is lightly pinched. If not, the chameleon is dehydrated. Also look to see how active it is. A reluctance to climb or even move about could be a sign that the reptile is not very healthy. Another point to look for is eyes that are constantly open. Chameleons are said to never close their eyes in the daytime.

As with any exotic, the best way to keep the Parsons Chameleon healthy is to maintain a habitat that resembles his native habitat as closely as possible. Learn about his geographical area and have the enclosure ready before you purchase your Parsons Chameleon.

By Vivian T Alsup Article Source: EzineArticles

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Add RED TAILED BALA SHARK to Your Tropical Fish Tank

Put a Shark in your Aquarium!

Bala Sharks can be a great addition to any fish tank.  It’s fun to boast among your friends that you have a shark swimming around in your aquarium at home.  Instantly they assume you have a ginormous shark.  Let’s put it this way – you can have a lot of fun talking about your Bala Shark

"Balantiocheilos melanopterus" by I, Lerdsuwa. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Bala’s are in the tropical semi-aggressive community and grow from 4″ to 17″ or more.  Bala Shark is versatile in the fish tank, they don’t hesitate to explore all levels in the water.  You can find the Bala’s shooting from top to bottom.  Bala’s are great for a community aquarium as they are non-aggressive.  The funny thing about Bala’s as they belong to the minnow family!  Their dorsal is what gives them the shark identity.  Bala sharks like to hop out of the water so if you don’t have the hood closed on your fish tank your Bala Shark may jump out and flop around on the floor.  A secure tight cover is number 1 with Bala’s.

Bala Sharks are omnivores so they can chow down on some meat or plants.  Prepared foods such as vegetables and live foods like worms suit the fish well for its diet. You can feed Bala Sharks fish flakes, frozen foods, live foods from tubifex worms to daphnia.  They even gorge down mosquito larvae, worms, and brine shrimp.  Remember to balance your Bala’s diet by tossing in some veggies.

For some reason fish like zucchini.  It’s the universal veggie, but peas and romaine lettuce will work too.  Feed what the shark will eat up to 3 minutes and alternate between meat and vegetation to keep your Bala’s diet in sync.

Tip Place your fish tank in a low traffic area away from exposing sunlight and AC/Heat vents to keep your tanks water temperature controlled. Other Bala Sharks include the Red-Tailed Bala (Aggressive fish), Red Spotted, Roselin, Silver-tip, Rainbow, and Variegated.

By Nathan E Peterson Article Source: EzineArticles

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Marine Aquarium Care - INVERTEBRATES Only

The care required for an invertebrate only tank is very similar to that of any other saltwater tank; however, the invertebrates are far less hardy than fish. It is recommended that you become skilled with a fish only tank before attempting an Invertebrate aquarium. Most Invertebrates require a specialized diet. Check with the supplier before purchasing and be sure that you are willing to make the commitment to have food delivered if necessary. There are two different types of invertebrates, tropical and cold water. Make sure that the type you are buying is compatible with its other tank mates.

Reef Aquarium - Photo by jimg944 

A few examples of tropical invertebrates are tube worms, red hermit crabs, cleaner shrimp and the sea apple. All of this marine life is compatible in terms of water conditions. They require a water temperature between seventy-five and seventy-nine degrees Fahrenheit, a P.H. between 8.2 and 8.4 and a salinity content of 1.020-1.024. As you can see, there is very little wiggle room associated with these measurements. It is extremely important to check the levels daily, or the results could be costly. These invertebrates are not compatible, however, with their food source needs. Check with the supplier for compatibility before combining tropical invertebrates.

Unlike their tropical counter parts, cold water invertebrates are usually not sold in stores. They have to be collected from tide pools. It is important to make sure that these species are not on the endangered species list before removing them from their home. It is equally important to do research in order to verify that you are able to properly feed them and care for their very specific needs. Sea Anemones, prawns, shrimp, and starfishes are a few varieties that have been successfully maintained in an aquarium. They require a water temperature between fifty-four and fifty-nine degrees Fahrenheit, a P.H. between 8-8.4 and a salinity content of 1.024-1.025. Luckily they do eat the same food. They feed off of a diet of small pieces of raw fish, shrimp, squid, and mussels.

When keeping cold water invertebrates such as the species mention above, it is a good idea to keep a separate tank full of shrimp, mussels, and scallops to be used as a food source if you wish to use fresh rather than frozen foods.  Be careful when keeping shrimp, as all of the invertebrates listed above feed on shrimp, including shrimp themselves. It is unlikely, however, that a healthy live shrimp will be eaten whole by another shrimp or starfish. Invertebrates should be fed more frequently in smaller amounts than fish. Try to feed only an amount that can be consumed in the first thirty to sixty seconds.

When setting up an invertebrate tank remember to include live rock, because some invertebrates feed on the parasites that grow on the live rock. A substrate should also be included in this type of aquarium. It will provide a place for the crabs and shrimp to dig and bury themselves. A light should be included as well if you intend to keep anemones.

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Multicolor ANGELFISH

The Multicolor Angelfish (Centropyge Multicolor) is a deepwater species that is sold from time to time in the marine aquarium hobby. Usually, the fact that it hails from deeper waters would mean it is a harder than normal dwarf angelfish to rear in captivity. This is untrue as far as the Multicolor angelfish is concerned.

The multicolor angel is an especially hardy member of the genus centropyge once it has been acclimated and adjusted to its new living quarters. Upon purchasing a specimen, they may be shy initially as they are used to waters without too much light. Multicolor angels are considered an aggressive species that will usually dominate smaller aquariums.

Their main body is mostly white with shades of orange, yellow and brown on its lower half. It also has a distinctive electric blue crown on its head. Its anal and dorsal fins are blue to black while its face and caudal fin are all yellow.

They do not tolerate other dwarf angels and will usually harass them to no end. Larger aquariums above 150 gallons are needed to keep another centropyge with the multicolor angelfish. They are considered an expensive fish, with prices ranging anywhere from $80 to $120 per specimen.

As they are from deeper waters, ensure there is no swim bladder damage present as it they can be damaged as the fish is brought up rapidly to the surface. Any specimen that is seen to be tilting side to side or from up to down should be avoided.

Feeding them is an easy matter as they will usual sample anything thrown into the tank once they recognize that you are a source of food. In the beginning they may be hesitant but this is usually taken care of over time. A good mix of foods including frozen meaty foods, greens and dry foods are a good way to ensure they get a balanced diet.

A specially formulated food for them is the Pygmy angel formula that is produced by Ocean Nutrition. This foods attempt so emulate their natural diet in the wild.

A dry pellet food that is suitable for the Centropyge Multicolor are from the New Life Spectrum line of pellets. A very balanced pellet, they are suitable not just for members of the genus Centropyge but also for surgeonfish, clown fish, damselfish and a host of other marine aquarium ornamental fish.

By Indran Manickam Article Source: EzineArticles

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DIAMOND KILLIFISH - Adinia xenica

Diamond Killifish - Adinia xenica

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Fact Sheet: NIGER TETRA - Big-Scaled African Characin - Arnoldichthy spilopterus

Family: Characidae

Species: Arnoldichthy spilopterus – Niger Tetra – Big-Scaled African Characin

Size: 7cm (2 three quarter inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Streams in Nigeria

Remarks: It needs plenty of swimming space and plants in which to hide.

Other Names: Arnold’s Red-eye Characin, Red-eye Characin, Red-eye Tetra

Comments: Arnoldichthy spilopterus The lower half of the body is silvery blue-green, shading to a pale belly. The dorsal fin has a white-edged dark blotch, and the caudal fin is grayish silver. Males have an orange and black anal fin and yellowish pelvic fins. Females anal fins have a dark blotch

Wikipedia: The Arnoldichthys spilopterus is kept as an aquarium fish. It is the only member of its genus. It is considered to be a freshwater species that are found in a pelagic range within a tropical climate. The average length of the Arnoldichthys spilopterus as an unsexed male is about 9.6 centimeters or about 3.7 inches. Their diet consists of worms, insects, and crustaceans. When kept in an aquarium for breeding, a female can lay about 1,000 eggs. They can hatch at the time of 30-34 hours. If kept in an aquarium, it is recommended to keep a group of at least five of this species together. The minimum size of an aquarium that is adequate for this species is about 100 centimeters.

This species is considered to be vulnerable to becoming an endangered species. In Nigeria, this species is found in less than ten different areas. Another influence that affects the population of this species in its natural state is oil exploration, deforestation, and pollution. There is also a population trend that is decreasing due to the fish trade that the Arnoldichthys spilopterus has become a part of for the aquatic system and commerce.

By Gary Bolton This fish comes from the “Tropical Fish” family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Make Good Efforts to Keep Aquarium Clean When You Keep PEARL GOURAMI Fish

Pearl Gourami is very attractive and very hardy fish so it is very easy to keep for the beginners as well have experienced fish-keepers.

Male Pearl gourami (Trichogaster leeri). (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The body of Pearl Gourami is compressed and elongated. Its fins are thin as well as long, looking like feelers. Its mouth is always up. There are flakes of green color on the body which resemble appearance of pearls. One more specialty on the body of Pearl Gourami is a long black line. This line starts from their mouth and goes up to the tail where it becomes a spot.

Pearl Gouramis like to live in areas of heavy plantation in the nature, so they are happy with the same surroundings in the aquarium. In addition to the base plants, you should also provide some floating plants as a place for their hiding. There should not be much light in the aquarium and the substrate should preferably be of a dark shade.

Pearl Gouramis like to live in slightly acidic water but they can adapt to different conditions also. They can easily live in a community aquarium with other species. However you should take care not to keep aggressive species with them.

Pearl Gouramis will be happy to eat most of the foods which are offered to pet fish. However for balanced nutrition, you should offer them for vegetables like spinach, lettuce and peas. Occasionally, you can feed them with live food such as blood-worms and brine shrimp which will help for preparing themselves for breeding.

The males of Pearl Gouramis are different from the females because of their colors. They have a red and orange color combination on their throat as well as on their breast. Their dorsal fin is also much longer and pointed. On the other hand, the females will have slightly bigger body than the males.

Before their breeding begins, you should feed Pearl Gouramis some good live food like brine shrimp. You should also reduce the water level of the tank, and keep it up to 8 inches. Increase the temperature of the tank up to 80° F and leave lot of floating plants in the tank.

The males will start building a bubble nest and their spawning will begin below it. At the time of spawning the males will wrap their body around the body of the females and the females will start releasing eggs. The females can lay hundreds of legs at a time. You should remove the females from the tank after laying the eggs.

The young ones will come out after 3 to 5 days and they will start swimming. You should immediately remove the males from the tank because they may start chasing the young ones and troubling them.

The young ones should be fed with baby brine shrimp up to two weeks. Crushed flakes of food can also be offered to them. After about a month later, they will grow up and you can shift them to the main tank. During this time, you should look after the conditions of water and you should change it at least every three days.

What other very important feature of Pearl Gourami is their habit of creating waste. They will generate a lot of waste which will be accumulated at the bottom of the tank. This waste will quickly start contaminating the entire water. So when you are keeping Pearl Gouramis, you must keep the water clean both by keeping a good filtration system and by physically removing the dirt from the tank. If they are forced to stay in dirty water, they will immediately get sick. If the fry is kept in dirty water, their growth will be poor.

One more precaution you need to take about Pearl Gourami is regarding their habit of eating. When you feed them to the fish in the tank, the fast more wing fish will grab the folder quickly. However, Pearl Gourami will wait for others to grab the food and they will just collect the leftovers from the bottom of the aquarium. So if you are keeping them with fast moving fish, they will remain hungry.

By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. Article Source: EzineArticles

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