NEON TETRA Fish

Photo  by Leino88 

Freshwater fish holding would be lamentably poor without the brightly colorized beautiful Neon tetras. Small green, profane or crimson fish swimming in freshwater tanks would most probably be the ever-popular Ne tetras. These fish are naturally found out in the lakes in South America or East Peru.

Ne tetras are hence popular among aquarists because they are hardy fish. They are peaceful fish and seldom nip at each other or any other fish in a community cooler. However, atomic number 10 tetras are schooling fish and these fish are happiest if they are in a schoolhouse or in a group of 5 or more. Schools or groupings make the fish experience really good. Atomic number 10s are likewise very active fish and they flit about a lot in the tank. This is a joyousness to check.

Ne tetras can dwell for rattling long periods if they are given proper care. 10 years is a potential lifespan of the shipshape Ne tetra. Neons unremarkably reside the middle or bottom levels of a storage tank and can grow up to 4 atomic number 96s. in length. The ph scale of the water should ideally be between 5.5 and 7.8. Their favorite water temperature is within the reach of 68 levels F to 75 levels F. The fish are generally spindle-shaped. The belly area is a bit lashed out especially among the female persons. The nose is blunt. A wide violent band runs down the body of the Ne tetra and extends up o the Caudal fin. A grim band that runs from the upper portion of the center premises this. The side above this is olive green while the lower side is silvery. The anal fin is mostly transparent. This prominent collage of coloring materials, peculiarly the counterpointing reddened and green, stimulates the Ne tetra one of the most popular and colored fishes in the freshwater aquarium.

Dark substratum and curbed lighting is the most suited for neon tetras. Putting in sets of floras is besides very good for the timid and active atomic number 10s. Some driftwood is too advisable. The tetras should not be kept with bigger fish, or they will end up becoming tiffin. Since neon tetras are therefore democratic, they have found out to adapt themselves to a wide range of habitats. But, ferocious breeding of the tetras to issue adequate fish for the burgeoning demand for atomic number 10 tetras has led to the loss of their native robustness. New fish are very delicate and chances of losing fish just after they are introduced into a cooler are very high. Withal, erstwhile the Ne tetras have shown themselves, they get along quite an intimately without too much difficultness.

Neon tetras are ball scatterers. They are a bit unmanageable to breed in enslavement. This is by and large due to an unsuitable body of water experimental conditions. Eggs of the Ne tetras appear to be light sensitive, hence Ne tetras postulate to be placed in a dark berth, as they get ready to spawn. A 2 3 inch layer of rock and some fine rough textured live floras are the best medium for spawning. The water temperature should not be above 75 points F. A hat should be kept on the tank at such a time, as the fish be given to bound very high during this period. While breeding the nes, it is necessary to look for the healthiest breeders. Merely young fish should be used for breeding determinations.

They should be coursed some live solid foods especially 2 3 days before breeding. These breeders have to be gone away in a spawning medium for about a day. The testicles are usually liberated ahead of time in the morning. The ballocks are well-nigh transparent and scantily stick to the surface of plants. The eggs will incubate in about 22-30 minutes. The small fry is very hard to spot at once. But, as soon as they get free to swim in 3-4 days, they will be seen very clearly, though they are yet very small. The stockbreeders should be removed as soon as the ballocks are spotted. As soon as the tike is loose swimming they should be preyed with infusoria. Ne tetras that breed in incarceration are not very fertile. A good spawn would consist of about 40-55 tyke only.

Author: Ad Brown - Articles Source: GoArticles

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CORAL Propagation in the Aquarium Industry

Mushroom coral (Fungia scutaria)
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Welcome to my Dream.

I have a dream that if every person that kept a reef aquarium propagated their corals, we could have an almost self-sufficient industry.

In my dream, you would buy a coral from an aquarium store, which someone else has propagated and propagate it yourself and sell multiples of that same piece back to that same store so they can sell it on to other people.

The stores that heavily participate in this program could then wholesale these corals to other stores. The amazing thing is that this dream is so simple and possible yet even now it is just a dream.

Some corals are very easy to propagate while others are harder. In my dream, every coral you bought would be bought with a view to propagate it.

If you can learn to keep coral, then you can learn to grow it, if you can grow it then you can learn to propagate it if you can propagate it then do it. Every person that propagates their coral is a credit to this wonderful industry.

The easiest corals to propagate are mushrooms, leathers, and fluffies. To propagate these corals it is as simple as cutting a piece off them and securing the pieces to a new piece of rock. The cutting is most commonly secured to a small piece of live rock using fishing line.

When propagating leather coral I have found it more effective to ensure that the cut surface is pointed to the direction of the water flow instead of trying to secure the cut surface to the rock. There seems to be less chance of developing an infection and the healthy uncut surface will be able to attach to the rock faster then the damaged side which will heal faster if allowed adequate water flow. This also applies to Acropora, even a stag will attach faster is the health side is the point of contact.

Whenever you are cutting a piece of coral ensure that there is ample room around the cut so it is not stung by surrounding specimens as the coral will be a week at this time. Also be wary of fish such as Angels that may pick on the damaged coral.

Don't be a wimp! Many people love the idea of propagating their coral but are too scared to cut them because they think they will hurt it. Corals don't feel pain as we do so be brave and remember that what you are doing it for the better of the species.

Remember that you can't win them all, but you will find that as you get better at it and with practice it will be rare for you to fail in your propagating attempts.

Big warning, never cut a mushroom, fluffy or anemone out of the water. It is better for you to cut them submerged in a shallow bowl of water from your tank. We learned this the hard way as one day my brother was cutting a mushroom coral out of the water when it sprayed him in the eye with poisonous neurotoxins. The pain was excruciating and we spend the whole night going from doctors to hospitals to eye specialists.

To propagate stony corals is it just a matter of cutting them with a hacksaw or better yet on a band saw. Once again allow room around the cut to it doesn't have to also deal with competing with its neighbors. After the stony coral has been cut you can towel dry the bottom of it and superglue it to a larger rock to safely secure it. Allow the glue to set before returning it to the water.

Don't be scared to handle the coral roughly because they are actually very tough, after all, they are built to ensure tonnes of water being dumped on top of them in the form of a wave. Most corals can safely be removed from the water for a period of time too, for example, low tide on a natural coral reef.

I do suggest having at least 14 times per hour water flow in any tank that you wish to propagate coral in and pay attention to iodine levels. Maintaining an iodine level of 0.06pp when propagating will decrease the instances of bacterial infection among the new corals.

Before you handle any coral it is important for you to know what it is in order to avoid handling a poisonous coral that may sting your hands such as fire coral Millepora. It is recommended to use gloves when handling live rock and coral. Corals are closely related to jellyfish and as with jellyfish, some are more poisonous than others.

If you ever been stung by a coral or fish the best thing to do is place it under hot running water, which will break down the neurotoxins.

Anemones can also be propagated like a mushroom, but I rarely recommend it. An anemone is a beautiful display when coupled with clownfish, but not always successful long term. I would suggest trying an anemone in the aim of seeing how long you can maintain it first if you find you are one of the few that can keep them long term, give propagating it a go of sure. If you do propagate it long term then I believe it is your responsibility to share your experience with as many people as you can. There must be something that you are doing that other people aren't. This is a subject I will really be experimenting on in the coming years. It is common for anemones to split by them self in peoples tank.

Currently, coral propagation is the most realistic approach to breeding corals. Corals can be bred in captivity as moonlight cycles and temperatures can be used as a trigger. The problem with breeding coral is that they mass spawn which will choke many systems. If you were to breed the coral it would be quite a long period of time until you have specimens ready to sell. When they are propagated they will often be ready in as little as 3 months.

It is not the intention of this article to teach you comprehensive techniques on how to propagate coral but rather to tell you that it is something that you should be considering doing, yes I do mean you! The internet is full of information and techniques which will set you on your way to being an enviro-hobbyist coral farmer. Read several articles and obtain a few ideas before you try your first. Remember that each person will tell you what works for them, this doesn't mean that there is a definitive right or wrong way to do it.

Please do not let possible failures stop you from succeeding in this. The only way you will fail is to not try. Even if the first few go wrong I encourage you to keep trying until you are doing it so confidently that you will wonder why everyone doesn't do it. I will tell you now that there are people that propagate coral and there are people that are scared to try. The service that you are doing for your hobby is too big to not do it.

Another simple way that you can help is to ask every time you are in an aquarium store if they stock any propagated coral. If they do I encourage you to consider buying it over any wild caught options. That fact that you are asking will reinforce to the retailer that propagated coral is something that people want. Imagine if every person asked at every shop they went into, retailers won't be doing anything to be able to supply such a requested product.

I have been educating people with a passion for many years on the benefits and realities of this dream. I would love to see more people just like you enroll in this dream. Not matter whether you have a tank or not it is never too late to start. You can make a difference! Please share this idea with as many people as you can until one day this dream is realized.

Good luck and enjoy Paul Talbot

By Paul Linton Talbot - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Successfully Raising CORAL in Saltwater Aquariums

Photo  by KAZVorpal 

When people start a saltwater aquarium they do so because they have a compulsion to create a miniature version of the ocean in their living room. They want the whole kit and caboodle; the brightly colored fish, the flowing plants, the half-rotted pirate's ship, and the coral reef. Growing a coral reef in your saltwater aquarium is the ultimate goal for many saltwater aquarium enthusiasts.

Beginners that are just starting a saltwater aquarium are not advised to attempt a reef aquarium. Start with a fish only aquarium and become familiar first, once you have mastered that you will be ready to add one of the hardier breeds of coral to your tank.

Before running out and purchasing coral reef, bear in mind that you are not adding an elaborate rock to your tank. Polyps are a tiny invertebrate. These polyps work together to form the limestone structures we know as coral reefs. Before you add the reef to your saltwater aquarium you must remember that the life of these polyps depends on your ability to provide them with the proper food, lighting, and water.

Having good water is especially important if you want your coral reef to survive. An abrupt change in your water can cause the polyps to go into a state of shock, this will cause your reef to become discolored.Your aquarium must be filled with clear water which will allow the coral reef to get the full benefit of your lighting. Coral requires a strong water current, outfit your tank with a filter that circulates the water throughout your entire tank. Avoid a linear current.

When you have decided on a variety of coral for your coral saltwater aquarium do some research on the lighting. Some corals have special lighting requirements.

Remember that coral, like all living organisms, requires you to feed them. For a long time, it was believed that coral reefs needed only minimal feeding. This belief was triggered by the belief that coral reefs were nutrient poor.  People assumed that the reefs used photosynthesis to feed. The reality is that most coral needs to be fed, at a minimum, weekly (every two to three days is recommended). Most coral needs to be fed food that has to be frozen or refrigerated. 

Throw away any food that has been open for over five months, it becomes stale. You may want to consider purchasing a liquid or bottled food for your corral. The size of the polyps in your coral reef will tell you a great deal about their food requirements. If you have large fleshy looking polyps you will be able to feed them large pieces of food, minced meat, and large zooplankton. If you have a coral reef that is made up of tiny polyps you have to remember that they can't digest the large pieces of food, these polyps will starve to death in an aquarium that is full of food that is too large for it to digest.

If you have done your homework and are patient and diligent you will be able to enjoy a very successful and beautiful coral saltwater aquarium.

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AFRICAN CARP Care - How To Manage An Aquarium With African Carp

Photo  by Dornenwolf 

The Genus Aphyosemion African Tooth Carp which is not only a hot favorite among fish breeders but also the prettiest one to be found in the market is one species which can be bred in communities. This species has a short lifespan and it is advisable to keep them in separate tanks. The fish will start contracting their fins and hide in the aquarium corners. The aggressive males of this species fight amongst themselves and therefore have a male put with only other females.

For those fish lovers who want to breed these carps in a tank would do well to have them bred under shade and among plants which float. Fill the tank bottom with overcooked peat and fill with water which is slightly hard or acidic. For one gallon of water, add a teaspoon of salt(table salt mind you!) to make the water alkaline in which certain fish love to breed in. Some fish are short-lived to have them placed in aquariums separately. They can be categorized as which breed at the surface, mid-level and bottom. The eggs of the first spawn will attach themselves to the leaves of the floating plants. For the second spawn provide fine leaf plants for the eggs to stick to. The third should be allowed to stick to the peat at the bottom of the aquarium.

Bottom and surface spawners love to live in glass tanks. Since carps eat their own eggs, have them removed to another tank. Maintain the temperature at 25 degrees Fahrenheit. If the peat dries up the eggs won't survive so maintain the temperature at 65 degrees. Keep shaking the peat while refreshing with soft water and have the temperature kept at 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Fish that breed at the bottom love to move around floating plants and can be bred in smaller tanks. After the female carps have delivered have them separated and clear the water. Carefully remove the water using a small tube to keep the eggs and peat safe. Keep the temperature at a constant of 70 degrees Fahrenheit for the required period. Finally, have the peat broken up but maintain the temperature at 65 degrees Fahrenheit. While you transfer the eggs keep adjusting the temp. to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

This species is for people with lots of experience at fish breeding so it is advisable that first-timers avoid this species. There are other simpler carps like the Brachydanio Rerio or Zebra Danio found in the eastern waters of India, which first-timers can have in their aquariums. This variety which is small can grow up to a length of 1 3/4 inches and comes not only in attractive colors like silver, gold, blue and black but it also has a cylindrical body shape. The Reiro species are the best type for people new to keeping fish as these are undemanding as the eat everything provided and can adjust to all types of water conditions.

By Abhishek Agarwal - Article Source: EzineArticles

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DALMATIAN MOLLY in the Tropical Aquarium

Photo: Wikimedia (CC)

Each Dalmatian Molly pattern is unique, some having more black spots than others and some being much more white. Their bodies are chunky with rounded fins, except for the male's anal fin, which is pointed. They can grow up to 4-inches in length.

Although Dalmatian Mollies have peaceful temperaments, they do get a bit nippy. Provide them with plenty of sturdy plant life for nibbling to keep the nipping of other fish at bay. Plant life is optimal too because of their need to eat plenty of algae.

Angel Fish, Guppies and Platys are well-suited mates for the Mollies. Also, consider housing them with other Molly breeds. There are many types to choose from and they will cross-breed. It's kind of a fun surprise, the different combinations of fry that result.

Dalmatian Mollies do enjoy chasing other species around, but they generally cause no harm.

It is important for the health of the Mollies to have aquarium salts added to the water. For every two gallons of water add one teaspoon of salt. Take into consideration before adding other species to the tank that they can tolerate salt water. The water temperature should be between 68-82 degrees Fahrenheit. Dalmatian Mollies need plenty of swim area, so 1-inch of fish per 1-gallon of water is best.

For optimum health give your Dalmatian Mollies not only algae-based flake food but small amounts of greens. Lettuce and cooked peas are good choices. They also enjoy occasional snacks of freeze-dried bloodworms or tubifex.

Chances are good that when you bring home your female Molly, she will already be pregnant, as she is able to hold sperm for up to six months. The gestation period is anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks. Being a livebearer, she will give birth to more than 20 little free swimmers at one time. Some people place their pregnant Mollies in a breeding net before birthing. This is a bad idea because she will likely become stressed.

For the fry, have ready aforehand a 9 or 10-gallon tank. After the mother gives birth, remove the fry with a turkey baster and put them into their own tank. Of course, you can't be watching the aquarium 24 hours a day, so have plenty of floating plant life for them to hide in until you are able to get them to safety. You will also need to have your filter covered with netting before they are born, as it is likely many of the fries will get sucked into it. If you choose not to have a separate tank for the fry than be sure you add extra floating plant life for hiding.

The fry can eat crushed flake food and baby brine shrimp.

The Dalmatian Molly grows to adult size in about 3 months. Well before that, they may join the other fish in the community tank. You'll be able to judge when they are big enough to not be eaten by the bigger fish.

The average lifespan of the Dalmatian Molly is 2 years.

You're going to enjoy watching these black and white beauties race back and forth, stopping for a nibble here and there.

By Cybil Frost - Article Source: EzineArticles

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If You're Going to Own a RAINBOW TROPICAL FISH, Read This!

A picture of a male Bosemani Rainbow fish.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Are you looking for a low maintenance fish that is nevertheless vibrant and exotic? If this sounds like you, then the rainbow tropical fish is the perfect choice for you. This sadly overlooked species is a mellow little animal that is ideal for beginner and veteran aquarium keepers alike.

Why is the rainbow tropical fish such a rare find? This is largely because many fish stores sell fish as juveniles or babies. Rainbow tropical fish don't tend to get their vibrant colors until their much older-as young fish they tend to be brownish green. These school dwelling fish show their colors when attracting mates. Unlike much tropical fish, they show no signs of aggression when other males are in the tank. Having a female or two will be ideal for breeding as well.

However, when choosing fish for your tank, be sure not to overcrowd them. While these are relatively small fish, they're still a school dwelling species that needs lots of room to roam. If you are unsure as to which animal to include with your school, try asking your local fish store.

Along with being beautiful, rainbow tropical fish are able to get along with a wide variety of aquarium fish. Oftentimes the problem is finding tropical freshwater fish that will be compatible with the rainbow fish; even tetras are known for nipping fins every so often. Some equally relaxed fish include guppies, angelfish, rasboras, and loaches. In addition to being a very mild tempered animal, they're relatively hearty as well, making them ideal fish for beginning tanks.

Some other things to remember when raising rainbow fish is the composition of your tank. Be sure to include lots of places for your fish to hide or sleep. These include broad-leafed plants, large rocks, and pieces of driftwood. Being naturally shy creatures, rainbow tropical fish need places for privacy and will lose their natural colors if overstressed.

Additionally, like most fish, rainbow fish are sensitive to extreme water changes. When caring for this species, be sure to have a quality water testing kit on hand. This allows you to check the levels of ammonia, nitrate, calcium, and other substances. In addition to this, having a high-quality heater and thermometer can't hurt either. There are even brands of heaters that have a memory setting, allowing you to keep the tank's temperature from fluctuating.

These are only a few things to consider when caring for a rainbow tropical fish. By being patient and diligent, you will be able to see just how much these tiny creatures can brighten up any tank. Learn more today!

By Tom McFay - Article Source: EzineArticles

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BETTA FISH Care Guide

Photo  by Daniella Vereeken 

Betta Fish Care Guide Reports

In accordance, Betta Fish Care Guide reports, Those of you who know me understand that We have 3 Bettas and have nearly 24/7 with them. They are users of my household, my kids in a funny kind of way. They challenge me, they make me laugh and there have been periods when they have been the explanation of amazing distress in my life. These are the days we are planning to speak about here. These are the periods we want to listen to.

Betta Fish Care Guide Points

In Betta Fish Care Guide, there is a great deal to growing a Betta, and raising a Betta is exactly what you do. In the event you go to the Local Fish Retail outlet or go online or exactly where you get your Betta, you are taking a fish (especially the males) that have been raised a few fish are. There are good reasons a Betta will not react to attractive much any other fish in your fish tank to the other fish in your tank. He has never been around other fish since he was a fry. Soon following it was motivated that he was a male he was deleted from the tank and placed in someone jar or some other short container so he would not struggle to the death with others of his kind. He easily doesn't understand that there are other fish who are Permitted to be in with him. Well, We have been not going to go into the whole Betta psychology now.

Betta Fish Care Guide about Types

For more Betta Fish Care Guide, Contrary to famous opinion a Betta cannot live in a BETTA BOWL or such comparable sized tank. We would say the minimum for a, in fact, glad Betta is 5 gallons. The Betta bowls or cute little containers they have to appear up with now are impossible to heat or filter and we can come to that momentarily, but Bettas are Tropical Fish and as this kind of, desire to be kept in heated and filtered water. Being Tropical Fish, Bettas should be saved at a temperature of 78 degrees F (25 degrees C) at a Lowest on a consistent basis. It would be much the more to aim for 80 degrees F (26 degrees C) to make them even happier. 

It is vital as the Betta seems to be especially prone to some of the cold water situations such as Ich and Finrot. These diseases are essentially prevented by conserving the tank temperature at steady and acceptable ranges. and water parameters fantastic. Here again, because the Betta is a Tropical Fish and especially because you love your fish and do not want to field him to have to live in a sewer, you need a GOOD filter in the tank you will be housing him in. This options chemical, biological, and mechanical filtration - no undergravel filters (UGF). You will discover many varieties of filters out there but not all of them are ideal for a Betta. Bettas are not given to being in a strong current so you desire to discover a monitor that is adjustable to the levels that it supplies a ripple or brief waterfall - not a torrent. They do like some movement to the major surface of the water as they are one of the Labyrinth fishes. These fish have an organ on the major of their heads that not only allow them to breathe air like we do, but demands it.

So if dust, scum or everything else builds upon the surface of the water and the Betta is prevented from reaching a clean floor spot, he will drown. He also uses his gills so he can vacation underwater for a time, but if you watch your Betta he'll go to the surface and "butt" the surface with the top of his brain, this is his "breathing air". A lot of proprietors supply a tall plant for their Betta to sleep in at night so they won't have to swim so far to "breathe".

Minara Zumey Minora is a doctor and her hobby is writing - Article Source: GoArticles

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