MandarinfishSynchiropus splendidus, belong to the Callionymidae or dragonet family. They are endemic to the Pacific Ocean. Their native habitat ranges from the Ryukyu Islands to Australia. This bottom-dwelling species is commonly found in sheltered lagoons and inshore reefs.
This is one of the most beautifully colored fish in all of nature. It color palette looks like it came straight from one of the polyester shirts popular in the 70s. A psychedelic montage of oranges, yellows and greens coalescing across a neon blue body make this fish a sure standout in any aquarium. Its vivid coloration evokes the rich color patterns and embroidered adornments on the robes of an Imperial Chinese Mandarin. This coloration makes for ideal camouflage against the brightly colored species typical of a tropical marine reef formation. They are sold under a variety of trade names including striped mandarin fish, mandarin dragnet, striped dragonet, green dragonet, mandarin goby, green mandarin, and even the psychedelic mandarin fish. One would think a species of such exotic magnificence would fetch a hefty price. In reality, these are very affordable fish.
Dragonets account for 10 genera and more than 182 species of the 267 genera and 2,100 species collectively referred to as gobies. Gobies are small fish. A fully grown adult mandarin will only reach between 2.5 and 4 inches in length. This is a mild-mannered creature and should not be housed with more aggressive species or fish large enough to view it as an appetizing snack. In nature, they often commune in small groups. However, in the confines of an aquarium two males may demonstrate territorial behavior toward one another. Keeping a male and a female together will not present a problem. This is a timid fish. Avoid having lots of other bottom dwellers in your community tank.
The Mandarin is more likely to starve itself to death rather than compete for its food. It will also require plenty of hiding places. This is a suitable candidate for a reef aquarium. It does consume crustaceans but they are much smaller than the ones you would purchase to populate your reef tank. Do not keep them with sea anemones as you may well wake up with one less fish in your aquarium. Mandarins secrete a toxin in their mucous that covers their bodies as a form of protection against predation. However, this toxin will not affect the other members of your aquarium as long as they do not attempt to eat the mandarin.
Mandarinfish are recommended for expert aquarists only. This is specifically because of their specialized diet in nature. This omnivore's diet is largely comprised of amphipods (small shrimp-like crustaceans), copepods (planktonic sized crustaceans), Gastropoda (tiny univalve mollusks) and polychaete worms.
Mandarins will often succumb to a death of malnutrition within the first six months of captivity. Many simply cannot make the transition to life in an aquarium. It is highly recommended that you ask to watch the one you intend to purchase feed before taking it home. Providing plenty of well established live rock and living sand as a substrate will help in the acclimation process.
Despite its troubles adapting to a life of captivity, mandarins are a hardy and highly diseases resistant species. They have scale-less bodies and a skin type that is naturally immune to ichthyophthirius (ich). Mandarins who successfully acclimate to aquarium life are healthy active fish that can easily live in excess of 10 years possibly even as long as 15.
It is relatively easy to sex mandarins. Males are generally larger than females. The male's dorsal fin is more elongated and pointed than that of the females. This fish has been known to breed in captivity.
Technological advancements in the aquarium industry continually redefine the concept of "home aquarium ownership." Just twenty years ago not even the biggest public aquarium was capable of keeping jellyfish alive in captivity. Now they make desktop Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums. And why would you want a jellyfish tank? Perhaps you should check out what the translucent bodies of Pet Moon Jellyfish look like under LED lighting. Pet Jellyfish give a whole new meaning to the term exotic pets.
Reptiles are animals to be respected. Many people think it's funny to irritate a reptile to get a reaction. These same people probably have the pet peeve of others irritating them to get a reaction. It's the idea of dishing it out and not being able to take it. Please put yourself in the reptile's place. While they may not exhibit emotions other than what seems like anger, they are living beings that deserve to be treated in a kind way.
It is illegal in many places to hold a reptile captive, even if you consider yourself to be taking good proper care of the animal. You may need a license or permit to be able to take care of it, even if you are trying to "save" it because of obvious injury or illness. It is best to contact a wildlife rehabilitator any time you see a wild animal in distress. If you can't find a wildlife rehabilitator, perhaps you could call a game warden or a nearby zoo or vet for further aid.
Collection and transport of reptiles can cause damage or trauma. This may make the reptile more apt to strike out in defense upon any close contact. Would you be a bit annoyed if someone removed you against your will to put you in an unfamiliar place?
It is best for the animal if it is allowed to stay in the environment to which it is accustomed when possible.
If you do happen to be unable to resist the urge to capture a wild reptile and later decide it wasn't such a good idea after all, please contact someone who would be qualified to take over its care. Wildlife animal refuges and zoos are equipped for the care of reptiles and may be happy to assist to keep the animal alive and well.
If you know of a reptile that is being abused or neglected because of improper care or treatment, you could try contacting a society for the prevention of cruelty to animals. Your local veterinarian's office, game warden, zoo, or animal shelter should be able to direct you to the right phone number or address of the nearest office for complaints. Should you be uncomfortable with providing your name, make it known from the start. It is understandable to want to keep yourself protected from an irritable owner caught by authorities for cruelty. But please, don't let this stop you from helping the poor unwilling creature. There are ways to protect yourself and reach out to help.
The exotic pet trade is big business that uses clever marketing techniques to snare people's interest in reptiles. Some people want the exotic pet as a hobby, a novelty item, or a status symbol. It may present the element of class or style they mistakenly wish to portray. The animal is the one that suffers when the interest has grown dim, and the excitement has worn off.
Safety with reptiles is not just about safety for the humans who are interested in handling the reptiles. It's also about the safety of the reptiles themselves.
Koi fish come in a large variation around the world and are one of the most popular when it comes to fish collecting enthusiasts.
Originally, koi used to come in three basic colors: red, white and yellow, but with the passage of time and advancement in science that helped cross-breeding to take place, we have a huge variety of koi to choose from.
With variety comes a score of colors and designs, all in sub-classes. Whatever type of koi you choose for your pond, however, you can be sure that you will be making the pond aesthetically pleasing.
When we think of types of koi, probably the oldest type of koi that comes to mind is the Asagi koi. The Asagi is believed to be the original koi, its appearance dating back to as far back as 160 years. It is also now known that the Asagi is the result of a mutation of an earlier type called the Magoi (Black koi).
A variant of the species came into being from the Black Koi, having blue scales and a lighter shade of blue around the scales, making a net-like pattern. This new species was cross-bred with Kohaku to get Asagi koi.
This koi had red cheeks and fins and a blue dorsal area.
Usually, gray/blue scales on the back are a common feature of Asagi koi. Sometimes the scales can vary in color and turn from lighter to darker shades of blue, usually around the center of the dorsal area.
Usually, the pectoral fins and the gills of the Asagi koi are found to be bright red but the koi can turn really dark in cold water. It has even been observed to turn totally black!
There are several sub-classes of the Asagi koi which have been formulated according to the patterns they come with. The classification is as follows:
Konjo Asagi: This is the darkest colored Asagi koi that you will find anywhere and can sometimes be totally black.
Narumi Asagi: There was a town in Japan called Narumi, where this special type of cloth with patterns was produced. The Narumi Asagi is named after that town because of having a similar pattern to that cloth.
The Narumi is usually dark blue in the center with light blue or white edges of the scales.
Mizu Asagi: This is the most expensive Asagi koi and comes in a totally light blue color. The color of blue in this koi is the lightest to be found. The Mizu Asagi is also known as Akebi.
Asagi Sanke: This type of Asagi is one of the rarest and priceless Asagi in the world. It has a pearl white abdomen.
Taki Asagi: A pretty uncommon variety, the Taki Asagi has a red abdomen with a white streak across it. The basic Asagi pattern is present.
Shusui: Large mirror scales are the highlight of the Shushui. There are also lateral lines to the left or right of the dorsal line that make the Shushui instantly identifiable. The result of a cross-breed between Asagi and Doitsu.
Most, if not all, of these differences, are easy to spot when choosing the type of Asagi koi you want. Keep in mind though that the most valuable Asagi are the ones with a white abdomen and they are very, very rare.
A native of the lakes in Costa Rica and Nicaragua the Midas cichlid or Amphilophus Citrinellus is a popular fish of many pet shops and fish owners. It is a large fish that can grow to fourteen inches in length. It is quite beautiful and comes in an array of colors. They are normally yellow, red and white or an assortment of these colors. The Midas cichlid can easily be identified by the nuchal hump which is a feature of the adult male. The female version is not quite as distinguishable. The males have larger fins as well.
This fish likes lots of water. It should be placed in a large tank alone or in pairs. One Midas would be happy in a tank of 75 gallons of water. That should be the minimum amount. If the fish keeper still insists on placing it with other fish the best option would be to put fish of the same size. Any fish that looks to be inferior will surely end up in the stomach. The tank should have lots of rocks and wood. Ceramic pieces and slate will make it very comfortable. Since this is a fish that loves to dig it is not a good idea to place many plants in the tank unless they are plants that will prove difficult for the fish to move. Even if they can't move the plant around they will shred it to pieces.
The Midas Cichlid is omnivorous so it should be fed on protein as well as nonprotein foods. Worms, brine shrimp, processed fish food should be used to feed this fish. Vegetables and plants should also be added to the diet. They should be fed two or three times per day.
This fish has an intense breeding season. The male and female will play with each other for weeks and even months. They rub against each other until the time comes for the female to lay the eggs. The couple works together by digging towards the bottom of the tank where the female will lay the eggs. After laying them in rows the male will fertilize each of them. The male becomes very possessive and may attack the female during this period. To ensure her safety the fish keeper should put dividers in the tank. The male will stay with the eggs until the fry is able to go on their own. Both parents have a habit of eating any eggs that are not hatched.
If given proper treatment the Midas cichlid can live for up to fifteen years. The water should be cleaned regularly and have the correct temperature. They produce a lot of waste so the water should be tested regularly for any contaminants and chemical imbalances that would cause them stress. The recommended temperature is between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are prone to Hole-in-the-head disease.
The Midas cichlid is a very interesting fish. They have flourished in captivity. Scientists have been using them to help in the conduct of behavioral research.
Jan Hvizdak owns Aqua-Fish.Net where you're welcome to visit a profile of the Midas cichlid.
Corn snakes are the most popular pet snake there is, and for a very good reason. These are snakes with a very good temper, and they are very easy to keep in an enclosure. Their adult size will usually be between 4 to 6 feet, and they have a very slender body type. The "original" corn snake has a black and white checkered pattern on their bellies that resembles a corn cob. I say original because corn snakes have been bred to get the most amazing colors and patterns; spotted, striped, no pattern, and all kinds of colors. Even pet shops usually have a wide variety of these "morphs".
Corn snakes live for a long time, around 15 to 20 years, so keep this in mind when buying one. In this care sheet, I will try to explain the most important sides of having a pet corn snake.
Setup
When you get your first corn snake, it is important that you have its setup ready.
First, they need a tank to live in, a ten-gallon tank is a good size for a young one. Then you increase the size of the tank up to 20 or 30 gallons when it reaches adult size.
At the bottom of the tank, you need substrate. You could use newspaper or plain paper, but a better choice is aspen wood shavings. The snake might burrow in it, it's very easy to clean and it even helps the snake shed by allowing it to rub against it. There are also specially designed reptile carpets you can get, but whatever you choose just remember that cedar is poisonous to snakes, and pine can dehydrate their skin. Most stores have aspen, and it's cheap and easy so I would say go with that.
One of the most important things, especially for a young corn snake is a hide. A lot of people forget just how important this is. The snake needs to feel safe, and a large empty tank will make the snake very stressed. I can guarantee you that the hide will be the one thing that your snake will use the most. For a hide you can use a box with a hole at the side, a flower pot with a hole at the bottom turned upside down, or you can buy a more fancy one at a pet store. Even an empty toilet roll will work! You should have at least two hides, one on each side of the tank; one on the cool end, and one on the warm end.
This leads me to the heat source. Unless you live where it's very warm you should have some sort of heat in your tank. Snakes need heat to properly digest their food. A good choice is a UTH(under tank heater). This is a mat specifically designed for reptiles, and you put it underneath on one side of the tank. This will give the snake a gradient in its tank, a difference in temperature on the two sides.
Alternatively, you could use a heat lamp, but this option will not give the snake any belly heat, so a UTH is the best option. It's important to remember that the UTH can get very hot if left without a thermostat it can reach up to 120 Fahrenheit! This is of course too hot and will cause severe burns. So make sure you have plenty of substrates to prevent the snake from laying right on the glass. If you buy a thermostat, a meter that will control the temperature you will save yourself a lot of worries as even with enough substrate on the bottom the snake can still burrow down to the bottom. Snakes are "stupid" in the way that they will not notice that they burn their skin until it's too late. $40 will give you an OK thermostat and is well worth its price. If you live in hot areas you'll probably be fine without a heat source, but for most, you should definitely get one.
A meter to measure the temperature and humidity is also important. Humidity is vital for a healthy shed, so when you see that your snake is going to shed increase the humidity to around 65-70%. A simple way to do this is to mist the tank with a spray bottle or to put a wet towel over the lid. The wet towel will quickly increase the humidity when it reaches the level you want simply replace it with a dry towel covering 3/4 of the top. This will help keep the humidity in, without getting 100%. Extended periods of high humidity can lead to sickness, so keep the humidity high only when it is shedding.
Water must always be available, and the size of the water bowl should enable the snake to soak its body in it. You can buy one from a pet store, but a kitchen bowl will work just as well. Just make sure that the snake does not tip it over. This should be placed on the cool end, opposite of the cool hide.
A secure lid is, of course, a must-have. Petco has clips for $3 that you put on both sides of the lid, and they work perfectly. A runaway snake is VERY hard to find, especially when its young. And even baby snakes can escape through the smallest gap. Our first corn snake managed to escape once, although this was because I forgot to put the lid back on its cage. Needless to say, we turned the whole apartment upside down looking for it, seeing as there were three cats trying to get it before we did. Luckily hours later it showed up underneath the vacuum cleaner. So be careful, get the clips and remember to put them on.
A branch to climb on, or fake plants for decor is also something you might add to your setup. Just remember that anything you bring in from outside, or if you buy it used put it in the oven for a couple of hours on 200 degrees (Fahrenheit). This will kill any parasites on it. For plastic plants, rinse them out in a weak bleach solution. If you have these things set up, you should be ready for the snake!
Bringing the Corn Snake home
When acquiring a corn snake you have several possibilities. Pet store, breeder or the classifieds.
A breeder will always be the best choice, as you are dealing with people who love the snakes. Corn snake breeding does not take in a lot of money so you can be sure that the breeder has a passion for these animals. You'll be able to know it's history, sex, date of birth, its feeding records etc. Also, you are more protected against parasites. Pet stores usually have a lot of different animals, and their main goal is to make $$. Some stores do take good care of their animals, but unfortunately, they are in minority. a lot of people do get their snakes from pet stores, but I would strongly advise you to support the community and buy from a breeder. Buying from the classifieds you never know what you're going to get, you have no guarantee that the seller is telling you the truth. But the choice is yours.
When you bring home the corn snake there will be about a week where you cannot disturb it. The snake needs to get used to its new home, and in the meantime, you must leave it alone. By giving the snake a week to settle down, you ensure that you will end up with a healthy, comfortable snake. After a week has passed, take it out on a regular basis, and let it get used to you. At first, it might be a little shy and nippy, but don't worry. With handling and time, it will settle down and be a wonderful pet.
To pick up the snake try to scoop it up from underneath. A big hand coming directly towards its head might feel threatening, so go in from the side as opposed to from above it. Be careful though, a young corn is very skittish and might try to jump right out of your hand. A fall might seriously hurt it, so be cautious and don't let young children hold the baby snake. If there are young children in the family, wait till the snake has calmed down before they hold it.
Feeding
A week after you brought it home, it should have gotten so comfortable that it will eat. If the corn is stressed or the temperatures are wrong it might not want food, but hopefully, this is not the case.
For feedings provide a separate box of some sort, it can be cardboard, Tupperware or whatever you have handy. Feeding in the tank is not a good idea, as the snake might digest the substrate which can kill it. Also when feeding in a separate container, the snake won't associate its tank with feeding, so when you go to pick it up you won't be mistaken for food. Hatchlings, that is baby corn snakes, eat one pinkie mouse every four or five days. These newborn mice can usually be bought frozen at pet stores, or you can go online for better deals. Put the pinkie in some hot water for around ten minutes, and make sure that it's completely thawed out. When the snake is in the feeding box, slowly dangle the pinkie in front of it. When the snake strikes, let go and let it eat without interruption. When the pinkie is swallowed and you can see the lump a good way down its tummy slowly pick up the snake and put it back in its tank.
Now it needs 48 hours to digest the food. Heat plays a crucial role in digestion, as well as leaving it alone for two full days. Digestion takes a lot of energy for snakes, so much that if it doesn't feel safe or is stressed out it might regurgitate the food.(throw up) This is its basic instincts, if it needs to make a safe escape from a dangerous situation (from the snake's view) it cannot do this while digesting, hence the regurgitation. After a couple of days, the food should be digested, and you can continue handling until next feeding.
There are problems that might come up with feeding that I will address. Hopefully, you won't have to worry about this though. If the snake will not eat, wait five days before trying again. Trying sooner will just stress the snake out even more. A snake is not going to be hurt by going a few weeks without food, so just be patient.
There are different techniques you might try if it really won't eat. First, make sure that the temperatures are good, and that you're not handling it too much. If so, you can put the pinkie and the snake in a brown paper bag, roll up the end so it won't be able to get out and leave it overnight in the tank. You can also try cutting a hole in the pinkie's head hoping that brain matter will lure the snake to eat. Alternatively, soak the pinkie in chicken broth before trying to feed it. If it's been over a month you should consider taking your snake to the veterinarian to check for parasites.
If you experience regurgitation something is wrong and you must fix it. Check your husbandry, look in water bowl for mites, and leave the snake alone until next feeding. Also, make sure that you are feeding appropriately sized mice. When the snake gets bigger, increase the size of the mouse and days between feeding. You can also feed rats; adult corns can have either two adult mice or a small rat every two weeks. If feeding rats, you need to make sure that the snake does not get fat. Rats are a lot more fattening then mice, so if you see that your snake starts to develop hips you should switch to mice.
Other Facts to Remember
Snakes shed as they grow, and it's important that they have good sheds. If the snake has not fully shed its skin, try giving it a bath in luke-warm water, or hold a wet towel around it. You can also put wet paper towels inside its hide to help the snake shed.
If your snake soaks in the water a lot, look for mites. Most often you will be able to spot them in the water. They are small and black or red, with legs. Mites are not because of a dirty tank etc, they probably got it from another reptile. Pet stores have mite treatment that works good, and both the snake, the tank and everything in the tank needs to be treated. Also if you have other reptiles, they might have it too. Mites are harmless to humans but can be fatal to snakes so be sure to treat them as soon as possible.
Wash your hands after touching the snake.
Take lots of pictures, have fun and enjoy your new pet!
If you are into reef tanks and your curiosity drove you to know more about Nano Reef tanks, read on.
Let me start from the bare basics. What exactly is a nano reef tank? A nano reef is nothing but a reef tank of fewer than 20 gallons. Now, this is not a sacrosanct rule of law like Newton’s law on gravity but I strongly adhere to this definition as 20 gallons is the threshold where popularly accepted formulas for reef tanks or ‘small’ reef tanks begin to lose ground, calling for new conventions.
Next, a pretty obvious question which you may ask is why would you want a nano reef tank? Pretty obvious answer: It is generally a low-cost affair. You can easily manage a decent nano tank with less than $200. Apart from cost they are easy to maintain, you can fit them anywhere, are extremely portable (that means if you are bored of watching it lying on your home desk, take it to your office desk without any hassles!).
And it is not something for just novices. They can offer new challenges to experienced reef keepers minus the cost and time constraints. I say challenging because there is very little room for error when it comes to the nano tank. Whether it is maintaining water quality or temperature stability or oxygen depletion, one has to be extremely careful in maintaining a nano reef tank.
Lighting a Nano reef is something of a complex issue. There are people who have kept Nano reefs with 3-7 watts per gallon of light. Some have used 30 watts. It boils down to the fact that you can have a successful coral tank using the rule of thumb, 3-7 watts per gallon, but your tank will be healthier if you provide larger quantities of light.
A nano reef will require your attention towards heating and cooling aspects too. This is because in a nano reef tank stable temperature control is very important. Unlike large tanks temperature change in nano reefs can be quite large and frequent. For the heating purpose, a normal heater would suffice. But cooling is a difficult problem. A common solution is to keep the tank in an air-conditioned room. Some people use evaporative cooling with fans, but this is probably not the best idea as there are chances that amount of evaporation it causes can produce wide specific gravity shifts in a nano tank which would not be appreciated by the tank's inhabitants.
Due to the small surface area, a nano reef tank will require adequate water circulation more than any other form of a reef tank. A simple and effective solution is to use an open-ended bubbler. Larger is the size of your tank more bubblers you may need.
There is no doubt that a sump would greatly aid in the temperature and nutrient buffering capabilities of a nano, but it seldom used. The main reason for this is that being small in size, using a sump adds to the complexity and takes up space, a big constraint in a nano.
Now here comes the best part of the nano reefs. The water quality maintenance or change is ridiculously simple! Being small, the water quantity is low. So changing the water every two weeks is a painless task. A regular water change will also obviate the need for a skimmer.
Now decide on for what live rock to choose and what quantity. Again here is a nano advantage. Since the size is small you wont be required lot of rock so you can go for the best quality live rock without causing a dent in your bank account.
And finally the choice for corals : You could go for both stony corals or soft corals. Virtually every soft coral is eligible for a nano reef tank. But when it comes to stony ones few points need to be cosnsidered. You should go for small colonies of stony corals, preferablly 12". You can pick any among Acropora, Bubble coral, Favites, Torch Coral or Elegance coral.
For a 5 gallon nano, you should add another about 3 lbs of live rock, plus at least another 3 lbs of live sand.
So go all out and play! Its not about the size, remember all good things come in small packages.
Growing to approximately 1 1/2 inches in length, the sparkling, or pygmy, gourami (T. pumila) is the smallest member of the genus. Males are slightly larger than females. T. pumila is a living jewel with numerous iridescent blue spots along the upper body and in the unpaired fins. The unpaired fins can be edged with a red or whitish band. The body pattern consists of a horizontal mid-body bar that runs from the snout through the eye to the base of the caudal fin. This bar is broken in some specimens and can even be formed of a series of slashes. Males generally have more colour in the fins and longer dorsal fins.
T. pumila is broadly distributed throughout Vietnam, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Peninsular Malaysia, and the Indonesian islands of Borneo and Sumatra, with most aquarium specimens originating in Thailand. It is found primarily in slow-moving or stagnant water, almost invariably under the cover of floating plants or among marginal plants. In many cases, the water in these habitats is extremely poor in dissolved oxygen as well as mineral content. Peat bogs are a common home to this species. The pH can be as low as 3.0.
In the aquarium, the sparkling gourami is highly adaptable and will do well at pH levels in excess of 8.0, which is truly surprising for a fish that inhabits blackwater in the wild.
Spawning is more likely when the pH is below 7.0 and the temperature is 80° to 82°. The male builds a very small bubblenest among floating vegetation and then entices a ripe female to spawn below the nest in the typical anabantoid spawning embrace. After depositing the eggs in the nest, the male guards them and the resulting fry until they reach the free-swimming stage. Fry are exceptionally tiny and must be fed infusorians as a first food. It may take 10 to 14 days before they are large enough to feed on newly hatched brine shrimp nauplii or microworms. Despite being the smallest member of the genus, T. pumila produces the highest sound pressure when making the croaking sounds.
Three-Stripe Gourami (T. schalleri)
T. schalleri is named in honour of renowned collector Dietrich Schaller, who has introduced a number of anabantoids and other species to the aquarium hobby. This species is commonly known as the three stripe or lace-fin gourami, owing either to the three dark horizontal stripes visible on the body or the extensive pattern of blue spots and red edges on the unpaired fins.
T. schalleri is very similar in appearance to T. pumila but grows larger. There has long been some doubt about whether these two were, in fact, separate species, but recent work indicates strongly that they are in fact different species. Among other things, the sounds they produce are different and are consistent within each species. Despite its smaller size, T. pumila produces louder tones than any other species in the genus.
T. schalleri grows up to 2 1/2 inches in length. Males have slightly longer fins and can sport an extension from the lanceolate caudal fin and extensions from the anal fin. This species is found in the Mekong drainage and can be found in Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, and Thailand, with almost all aquarium specimens being collected in Thailand.
Typical of the genus, T. schalleri is found primarily in swampy or marshy areas as well as rice paddies. Spawning and rearing the fry is the same as for T. vittata.
Add a Trichopsis to Your Aquarium
The next time you're looking for a colourful fish to be the centrepiece of a small planted aquarium or just want to keep a fish you can hear for a change, consider one of the croaking members of the genus Trichopsis. These little jewels will reward your selection with colour, interesting behaviour, and a bit more noise than you typically expect from your aquatic charges. To find out more, you can check out Sparkling Gourami.
by Jon Cole
Hi, I'm a traveller, fishes fanatic, reader and teacher. I hope to share my fishes experiences with you through my articles. If you like my articles, do share with your friends. I thank you for that first.
Synchiropus splendidus, belong to the Callionymidae or dragonet family. They are endemic to the Pacific Ocean. Their native habitat ranges from the Ryukyu Islands to Australia. This bottom-dwelling species is commonly found in sheltered lagoons and inshore reefs.
come in a large variation around the world and are one of the most popular when it comes to fish collecting enthusiasts.
is a popular fish of many pet shops and fish owners. It is a large fish that can grow to fourteen inches in length. It is quite beautiful and comes in an array of colors. They are normally yellow, red and white or an assortment of these colors. The Midas cichlid can easily be identified by the nuchal hump which is a feature of the adult male. The female version is not quite as distinguishable. The males have larger fins as well.
should have lots of rocks and wood. Ceramic pieces and slate will make it very comfortable. Since this is a fish that loves to dig it is not a good idea to place many plants in the tank unless they are plants that will prove difficult for the fish to move. Even if they can't move the plant around they will shred it to pieces.
