The African CLAWED FROG as a Pet

Do you have a child who is longing for a pet but can't have one because of allergies? Do you want a low maintenance pet with a long lifespan and few needs? Then the African Clawed Frog is for you.

African clawed frogs; Xenopus laevis (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The African Clawed Frog or Xenopus Laevis is a wonderful pet for people who have allergies or live in a place that doesn't allow furry pets. They also are great learning tools for schoolrooms and for children to learn about how a frog changes from a tadpole to an adult.

You can purchase a frog from Grow-A-Frog online, or from the fish section of your local department store. These frogs are used extensively in laboratories for research because of the properties of their skin. They used to be used for pregnancy detection before more sophisticated tests were available and were released into the wild in the USA when they were no longer needed. Because the frogs will eat just about anything and have a long lifespan, they started to threaten the local fish and frog populations, and are therefore not legal in some states.

Habitat

African Clawed Frogs are from the cooler places in Africa. They like to live in areas of stagnant fresh water like ponds, rivers, and pools. For your frog, you will want to buy an aquarium and allow for ten gallons of water per frog. Because your frog breathes air, the water should be six to twelve inches deep so he can swim to the surface easily. The tap water has to sit for 24 hours before you put the frog in it, or use a dechlorinator crystal you can buy from Grow-A-Frog. Frogs are happiest when the water temperature is about 74-78 degrees F, so you may need an aquarium heater. A filter can be used to keep the water clean.

Whether or not to use gravel or stones on the bottom of the tank is debatable. Some frogs will eat the gravel if it is small, and they could die. If the stones are big enough, you could put them on the bottom. Also, provide your frog with some cover to hide, with plastic plants and decorations. Don't use real plants, because your frog will destroy them.

Be sure to have a tight fitting lid on the top of the aquarium. Your frog is a master at escape and can jump right out of most places.

You don't have to use direct light or artificial light for your frog. They like indirect light the best.

Food

African Clawed Frogs are not fussy eaters. You can feed them the prepared fish pellets from Grow-A-Frog, or you can feed them brine shrimp, meal worms, guppies, or Tetra Rept-min. They will even eat the fish in your aquarium, so be careful you don't put them in a tank with little fish.

Lifespan

These frogs have an official lifespan of eight to ten years in captivity, but most African Clawed frog owners will tell you their frogs can live fifteen to twenty + years.

Care

Clean the water once a week, less if you use a filter. Feed him. Watch him (don't hold the frog; they have chemicals in their skin which may cause an allergic reaction for some people). Listen to him sing! (males sing, females don't).

Benefits

The African Clawed frog if bought as a tadpole is a great learning tool for children. They will get to watch the frog grow from tadpole to adult swimming frog. If you buy a male and a female frog, with some luck, you can watch the mating process and enjoy the babies that may result.

The male frog has interesting vocalizations for different occasions. There is the 'feed me' song, the 'I want a mate' song, and the singing for singing sake song. Both sexes use their front legs to grab and eat, and look like they are begging for more food.

If you want a non-allergic pet with interesting habits and simple requirements, than the African Clawed Frog is for you!

By Mary Casey Mary Casey is the proud owner of a sixteen-year-old African Clawed Frog named Mup. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Top 10 Tips on Keeping DWARF GOURAMI

There are different names for Dwarf Gourami fish. Some call them as powder blue Gouramis while others call them as neon blue Gouramis. They have a peculiar habit of swimming together in a pair. Originated from India, they are tropical freshwater fish.

If you plan to keep Dwarf Gourami fish in your aquarium, here are some important tips for you -

1. While buying them from the pet fish shop, you should consult the shop staff and buy them in appropriate proportions. They should be bought in the proportion of three females to one male and you should buy at least a group of 7 to 10 of them at a time. They can live up to four years in aquariums and they will grow up to 4 inches in length.

Dwarf Gourami - Photo by jfinnirwin 

2. The food habits of Dwarf Gourami fish are slightly different from other Gouramis. They will prefer meaty foods as well as algae. Occasionally they will eat flaked food. So you should plan their diet plan carefully. If you notice that their color is fading out, you should increase the proportion of live food in their diet. They will not pick their food as soon as you feed them. Instead they will take it from the bottom of the aquarium once it settles down.

3. They will require a reasonable amount of water and swimming place around the aquarium. So you cannot keep them in a small aquarium.

4. They are playful by nature so they should be kept in a group. If they are kept alone, they will develop stress and get sick.

5. Though all they are comfortable in all types of waters, if you keep them in a tank with the temperature of 75-80° F and with the ph level of 6.0 to 7.0, they will be happier.

6. They require a calm and quiet environment. So if you plan to keep them in the aquarium, you should not set up your aquarium in a noisy place. You should also see that there should not be any direct sunlight coming to the aquarium. The lighting should be moderate and there should not be much movement in the water.

7. If you plan to keep several males, you should remember that they will have territorial ambitions. So they will fight over an area in a small aquarium and may hurt each other. If you see them in a shop, you will always find them fighting. If the aquarium is sufficiently big, they can live peacefully. So you should plan your aquarium size carefully before introducing them.

8. They are always described as wife beaters! Particularly at the time of spawning, they will be impatient and will hurt the females. As a precaution, you should introduce at least two or three females For a male and they all should be shifted in a separate tank. Once the female lays eggs, she should be immediately removed from the tank.

9. The males will take care of the eggs after the spawning. However, when the new ones start coming out, you should shift the male to the main aquarium.

10. Usually the fish keepers are interested in knowing the information about the frequency of breeding of Dwarf Gourami fish. They breed once in a month and at one time they can lay hundreds of eggs. However, they will take a break after 3 to 4 months. This break will be around one month and they will start spawning again.

Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. Article Directory: EzineArticles

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CENTROPYGE - Dwarf Angelfish

The genus centropyge has within its family some of the most popular marine fishes in the aquarium hobby today. They are commonly known as the dwarf angelfish family. It has 34 members and they are generally a lot smaller than their larger cousins like the french or emperor angelfish.

Centropyge flavissima (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

They come in a variety of colors and sizes and some of them are exceptionally popular among enthusiasts. Sizes range anywhere to the tiny 3 inch cherub angelfish to the 7 inch giants of the family, namely the Japanese pygmy angelfish and the Keyhole angelfish.

While they differ in size with their much larger cousins, their diets are very similar. They are omnivores in the wild that will graze on algae, copepods and consume even detritus. While they are also known to nip on corals and clams, they are generally safer to house with corals than a Queen or French angelfish.

They are found throughout the worlds tropical oceans and can be found anywhere from 20 feet to up to two hundred feet plus in depth. Deeper dwelling species such as the highly prized Centropyge Boylei can cost up to $20000 per specimen. No that wasn't a typing error. That small three inch fish can cost as much as a brand new car.

Fortunately for most of us, the vast majority of dwarf angelfish are within reach. Some of the more popular selling species include the famous flame angelfish, lemonpeel angel and the cherub angelfish.

The flame angelfish is bar far the most popular within the genus centropyge. It isn't hard to see why. Its entire body is a bright flame-like orange to red coloration. This beauty hails from the Christmas and Marshall islands.

As a whole, most centropyge species do well in captivity. Those that don't are usually deeper water species that require low lighting conditions and are generally shy. An exception to this rule is the Centropyge Multicolor, an aggressive and boisterous dwarf angelfish.

Because of their small sizes, centropyge make excellent additions to smaller tanks. However, once established, they can start to dominate and bully their tank mates.

By Indran Manickam Article Source: EzineArticles

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The Latest Information On TREE FROGS

There are many cool and interesting facts about our great planet Earth that many people don´t ever take the time to think about. If you could, take a deep breath and close your eyes. Visualize planet Earth and think about all the different landscapes that make the world so beautiful. Now think about the animals and creatures that roam through these amazing landscapes. After doing this, I bet you never once pictured the great tree frog in any of the scenic images you had created in your imagination. Well, if you did, your the one out of a few thousand who might have thought of a tree frog. Regardless, tree frogs exist in our world and there a lots of different types of them.

Gray tree frog
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Tree frogs are slimy yet they are pretty interesting little reptiles. There are many different classifications that frogs belong to; tree frogs are frogs that are of the families Hylidae and Rhacophoridae. A thing that you probably don´t know is that many tree frogs don´t even dwell in trees. When it comes to tree frogs, there are arboreal frogs, terrestrial frogs, and aquatic frogs. Aroboreal frogs are tree frogs that live up to their name and live in trees. The terrestrial frog lives and roams on the ground, and I bet you can figure out that a aquatic frog lives in the water. The Arboreal tree frogs are more green while the other two types of tree frogs are more dull looking, like the color brown.

Tree frogs essentially chew on insects and other little invertebrates, creatures without a spinal cord. The bigger frogs though can chomp down on a good vertebrate creature however. The great tree frog roams in almost every region of the world. There are the European tree frogs, known as the Hyla Arborea, are usually found in the middle or southern part of the United States and in parts of Asia and North Africa. The American tree frog, also known as the Hyla cinerea, can be spotted in Northern America. There is a really cool type of American tree frog known as the Hyla versicolor because it is completely grey. There are other old world tree frogs that dwell the regions in India, Sri Lanka, China, South Eastern Asia, Indonesia, Japan, and as well in the West Indies.

Tree Frogs are more common then those other animals yo may have envisioned at the beginning of this article. Next time when closing your eyes and picturing the animals and creatures of the world, hopefully you´ll think of the great tree frog. If it is in the spring and summer evening time, you may not need to close your eyes to think about tree frogs. Several different types of tree frogs begin to croak really loud during this period when rain is about to approach. That means tree frogs are really smart as well because they can predict the weather. There are countless different types of tree frogs in the world that inhabit different areas and make the world the world we know it to be today.

Submitted by: Andrew Scherer About the Author: Written by Andrew Scherer. White's Tree Frogs can make great pets. Check out the White's Tree Frog Care Sheet for more information. Source: www.isnare.com Permanent Link: https://www.isnare.com/?aid=223635&ca=Pets

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WHIPTAIL CATFISH -Hemiloricaria parva

Whiptail Catfish -Hemiloricaria parva

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The History Of BUTTERFLY KOI

Butterfly kois, also known as Longfin Kois or Dragon Carps are characterized by their slender bodies and long flowing fins and barbels. They are usually white, yellow or orange in color and come in most of the traditional Nishikigoi patterns such as the Aka Bekko, Kohaku, Sanke, Shiro Bekko, and Showa to name a few.

Butterfly Koi - Photo: Wikimedia

They were crossbred in the 1980's in an attempt to cultivate a hardier koi. Its specific koi lineage however, is debated. Some say butterly koi are a cross between the Indonesian Longfin river carp and traditional koi. Others, that the New York Company, the Blue Ridge Fish Hatchery developed these long-finned mutations under the auspices of Wyatt Lefever. He had apparently bought some grey/black carp variety from Indonesia by mistake but decided to see how the resulting fry would fair when bred with traditional Japanese koi. In seeing this new breed of long-finned and brightly colored fish Lefever's son, Randy is said to have remarked that they looked like butterflies- hence the name. Previous to this particular breed, most traditional koi varieties interbreeding efforts with other carps of less ornamental advantage, such as the goldfish, led to sterile hybrids.

Butterfly kois tend to come from Malaysia, Indonesia, Taiwan, Japan, China and Singapore. Outside of Asia, the UK and Israel are also known to breed them. Currently however, they do not hold their own show class in traditional Nishikigoi competitions due to their comparative degree of difference with other kois in appearance (finnage, dorsal, tail, shape and length) and cultivation. For instance, butterfly kois are known to grow faster than other kois, but never as large.

Indeed butterfly koi growth is one of its most impressive features. The older the fish the longer the fins and barbel whiskers. Given adequate water, they can grow up to 40 inches. The gene for the long-finned feature of koi is said to be the dominant one since 80% of fry resulting from interbreeding between long-finned butterflies and Japanese koi result in long-finned fish.

Despite their "outcasted" koi status, butterfly kois have nevertheless gained a following of their own due to the graceful effect of their "wings." It is thus commnon that traditional koi enthusiasts keep a specimen or two of these longfins in their pond.

While there are reports that as of June 2006, The Association of American Koi Clubs (AKCA) introduced separate standards for judging butterfly kois or longfins in US competitions, these standards were not as refined as their traditional Japanese koi counterparts. However, in January 2009, AKCA published an article in its official magazine KOI USA detailing more specific criteria based on finnage appearance and length combined with anatomical information necessary to say a longfin was a more acceptable one than another. It also introduced a classification system of different sets of longfins, criteria for jugding small vs. larger longfins and recommendations for measuring longfins in general.

Currently, if there is any agreement at all, it is to hold fast to the criteria that applies to all koi across the board. For instance, the lack of abnormalities and absence of disease or parasites is a definite must for all competing koi. Another is the necessity of brilliant colors.

Most butterfly koi enthusiasts however, maintain that these separate longfin standards are still being determined at the local koi show level. Some judges like long flowing fins for butterflies and others like short ones. Market prices however, for butterflies, give the longer and more flowing fins, the higher the grade.

Until the standards have been set, however, it is unlikely to have any certainty at all that a butterfly koi purchase is a premium grade one or not.

By Jason S Williams Jason Williams is an expert on Koi Fish and their habitat. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Tips on Caring For Your PLECOSTOMUS Algae Eater

Plecostomus or Hypostomus plecostomus belong to the family Loricariidae. Loricariidae means armored catfish named so because of the armor-like longitudinal rows of scutes that covers the upper parts of their bodies. They are endemic to both Central and South America. They are more commonly known as algae eaters or sucker mouth because of their suction cup like mouth.

Hypostomus Plecostomus - Photo by Kasia/flickr 

Their dietary habits make the Plecostomus extremely popular among freshwater aquarists. In addition to the benefit of reducing algae growth, they are a solitary and peaceful creature making them a great addition to any community tank. They will actively seek out and eat algae at the microscopic level before it has a chance to develop into a cleaning and maintenance problem.

Before you buy one, you should be aware that these are not small fish. The ones you see in fish stores are young. In their natural habitat they can reach up to 24 inches. In captivity they will often grow to a foot long.

If you have a smaller tank you can still enjoy the benefits of an algae eater. The variety commonly marketed as the clown plecostomus only grow to 3-4 inches. The king tiger plecostomus will top out at about 6 inches. There is a rather unusual trait found among plecos species. Their foreheads enlarge as they mature. It is not uncommon for a plecostomus to live in excess of 10 years. Plecos are primarily herbivores. But they also eat the food scraps on the substrate missed by the other fish. These bottom dwellers will use their suction cup like mouths to attach themselves to the sides of aquariums where algae is beginning to develop.

Unlike many fish that have become a nuisance after aquarium trade related releases have introduced them to previously uninhabited ecosystems, the plecostomus has proved to be beneficial. They have been introduced to the freshwater ecosystems of Florida, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Vietnam, and Bangladesh.

Plecos are nocturnal creatures. It is a good idea to have hollow aquarium décor in your tank to give them a place to hide during the day should thy wish to do so. Plecos thrive in neutral water with a temperature range between 70-79°F.

Plecostomus Breeding

Plecos are not known to spawn in captivity. In the wild they dig pits in river beds to deposit their eggs into. Both parents guard the eggs until they hatch. Young fry feed off mucus on their parents' bodies until the have matured enough to fend for themselves.

Most of the fish that do not spawn in captivity are caught to support the thriving aquarium industry. This is very often not the case when it comes to the plecos. There are natives of South and Central America that have turned the harvesting of plecos eggs into an industry all its own. Eggs are collected from riverbeds are are then transported to fish farms where they are hatched and raised for eventual resale. Most of the commercially available plecos for sale fish stores in were harvested just this way.

By Stephen J Broy Freshwater fish are the most popular aquarium fish worldwide because of their inexpensive price and ease of care. Many aquarium owners don't realize that there is a rather exotic alternative to freshwater fish in the realms of affordability and upkeep. Jellyfish aquariums are the hottest new trend in the aquarium industry. Jellyfish do require a special Jellyfish Aquarium Fish Tank in order to survive but they are far easier to keep alive and healthy than saltwater fish. If you find the idea of raising pet jellyfish intriguing, find out more about Moon Jellyfish and other Pet Jellies. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Choosing the Right SUBSTRATE For Your Aquarium

The effects of choosing a bad substrate are not as obvious as bad Co2, lighting or heating choices for your plants, but the long-term effects can be devastating. Changing a substrate in an established aquarium is one of the hardest procedures you can undertake.

240 litres aquarium with different fishes, plants and a big root. Species = Fishes: Pterophyllum scalare, Trichogaster leeri, Paracheirodon axelrodi, Macropodus opercularis, Ancistrus sp.. Aquatic plants: Echinodorus, Anubias barteri var. nana, Hygrophyla difformis, Microsorum pteropus 'Windeløv, Micranthemum micranthemoides, Vallisneria sp, Echinodorus tenellus, etc.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Substrate is a source of nutrients for your plants and secondly serves to hold whichever plants you would like to keep in place. At the very least you will want to choose a substrate which is rich in the macronutrients that your aquarium will need. A deficiency of macronutrients results in many unwanted physical effects in your plants, ranging from discolouration and dis figuration, to browning and death. Needless to say, it is important that your plants have all the nutrients that they require. Although it is possible to supplement some of them via fertilizers, this can introduce water chemistry issues of its own.

When choosing a substrate, try to establish what macronutrients that it contains. It is helpful to make sure that your chosen substrate is intended for your kind of aquarium. If you were to choose a substrate that was designed for salt water aquarium use, you run the risk of releasing unwanted slats or minerals into the water. In the case of crushed coral, this may raise the pH of the water to an unwanted level and the potential knock-on affects of this can be deadly.

One of the best ways to work out what would be good for your aquarium is by locating the hobbyists themselves. Forums are often priceless in helping you find exactly the right combination of materials to make your own substrate. You will also find recommendations for commercially available substrate for your aquarium, be it tropical, freshwater, marine or salt. It is always worth taking forum recommendations with a pinch of salt, unless a full overview of all the macronutrients and general use of the substrate is given. Some examples of good major brands of substrates would be Fluorite, Eco Complete and ADA Aquasoil. Before you buy anything, read the manufacturers packaging carefully.

When choosing your substrate, try to provide a substrate of three to eight millimetres per grain. Too much is as bad as too little; with too little the roots will be suffocated and with too much, there is not enough contact with the roots. You will need to do your research, with the kind of aquarium you keep in mind to find the best thing for your plants and fish.

With live aquarium plants you can overcome all the problems of a non-planted aquarium. You can improve the quality of your aeration, filtration, food and algae control. You can improve the lives of your fish.

Find out how live aquarium plants can help you, help them.

By Sean Norman Sean Norman is an environmental science student and freelance writer with a deep love of ecology. Article Source: EzineArticles

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The WAIKIKI AQUARIUM - A Nice Respite From Beach Activities

The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Exhibit is the Waikiki Aquariums first new exhibit in 6-years. The Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument, which includes the chain of 120+ islands and atolls that string some 1200 miles to the northwest of Niihau, is home to over 7,000 marine species, a quarter of which are found nowhere else on Earth. The 4,000 gallon display will feature many species of fish rarely seen outside of this protected area.

The Waikiki Aquarium...3rd oldest aquarium in the country.

The Honolulu Aquarium, as it was known when it opened in 1904, was a state-of-the-art facility with 35 tanks and 400 species in its collection and was proclaimed to have the finest collection of fishes in the world.

"Waikiki Aquarium entrance"

Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Commons.

Its tradition as a research facility began in 1912 with a donation from the C.M. Cooke Estate for a marine biology research laboratory. When its lease expired in 1919, the Cooke Estate ceded the Aquarium's property lease to the Territory of Hawaii and operations were turned over to the then newly formed University of Hawaii.

In 1949, the Territory Legislature funded construction of a new aquarium to the south of the original structure and in 1955, the Waikiki Aquarium opened. This is the building that I originally visited back in the 60's and which still stands today. The 1990's brought a focus on more naturalistic exhibits that focused on the marine life of Hawaii and the western Pacific, as well as significant renovation of the facilities, and in 2000 the Aquarium was designated a Coastal Ecosystem Learning Center of the Coastal America partnership.

During this period they instituted the coral propagation program, for which the Aquarium is now world-renowned. The purpose of this program is to supply aquariums and researchers world-wide with live coral specimens while protecting coral in the wild. The ultimate goal of the program is to reach the point where they can re-introduce corals back into the wild to help propagate dying reefs.

The Waikiki Aquarium Houses Six Main Areas:

• The Corals Are Alive: Hawaiian coral reefs are unique in that they are geologically young reefs and are the most geographically isolated reefs in the world.
• The Galleries at the Aquarium: highlight the aquatic communities of the tropical Pacific and Hawaii.
• The Edge of the Reef exhibit is a 7,500 gallon (28,400 liter) outdoor exhibit that recreates a typical Hawaiian shoreline.
• The Hawaiian Monk Seal is one of the world's most endangered marine mammals.
• The Ocean Aquaculture display focuses on the raising of a Hawaiian favorite, the "moi", aka Pacific Six Fingered Threadfin (Polydactylus sexfilis).
• The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Exhibit

The Waikiki Aquarium also offers a number of educational and fun activities and events for the family. These range from night viewings of some of the nocturnal residents in the aquarium to exploring the nearby tidal pools. The seahorse exhibit takes viewers behind the scenes at Waikiki Aquarium to talk about the care and feeding of seahorses. Or, you might want to get involved with NOAA's Ocean Exploration Curriculum Workshop or the Marine Educators' Night at the Waikiki Aquarium for adults.

So, while the Waikiki Aquarium may not rival its larger counterparts on the mainland in size, it still warrants a visit if you have any interest in the local sea creatures and the many conservation efforts being led by this University of Hawaii operated facility. What it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in its world renown status!

And, its one of the most affordable attractions that is also walking distance from most Waikiki hotels. Admission for adults...$9; for locals (kama'ainas), seniors (65+), and active military...$6; youths (13-17) or those with a disability...$4; juniors (5-16)...$2; and children (4 and under)...FREE. Open 9:00 to 4:30 pm daily; closes early at 2:30 Thanksgiving Day; closed for the Honolulu Marathon and Christmas. Located at 2777 Kalakaua Ave., call for more information, (808) 923-9741.

Check the actual information on the website: http://www.waikikiaquarium.org/

By Randy Yanagawa Article Source: EzineArticles

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Tips on DRAGON WRASSE Care

Dragon Wrasses or Novaculichthys taeniourus are members of the family Labridae. This is a large and diverse family comprised of over 500 species in 60 genera. The name wrasse is derived from the Welsh word, gwrach, which means old woman or hag. Dragons have a rather extensive habitat. Populations exist in the Red Sea as well as both the Indian and Pacific Oceans; throughout all of Micronesia along the entire east coast of Africa to Lord Howe Island south of Australia. They can also be found from the Hawaiian Islands to the eastern Pacific; from the Gulf of California down to Panama.

Dragon Wrasse, Novaculichthys taeniourus is being cleaned (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Dragons are a medium to large fish depending upon what species you keep as an aquarist. They can grow to a maximum adult length of 12 inches. Adults and juveniles not only look like two distinctly separate species, they look as if they originate from different planets. Adults have the elongated profile typical of a wrasse. Their heads are light grey with burgundy markings around their eyes. 

They have burgundy bodies covered with a grey spotting pattern. Their dorsal and anal fins are quite long and also display spotting. Fins are a combination of reddish brown, burgundy and a grayish green. The bases of their caudal fins are white with a brown and green fan-like appearance at the end.

Juveniles are extremely exotic creatures. They exhibit features more typical of a species of lion fish than that of a wrasse. Their heads are crowned with two long dorsal spines that have the appearance of alien antennae or a pair of old rabbit ears from the airwave era of television. 

Their fins consist of either individual spines or spines held together by a joining membrane. The assortment of spinal protrusion from their bodies contributes to their resemblance of a volitan. Primary colorations vary from peach, to burgundy, light blue or grey and can even be a radiant lime green. Regardless of primary coloration, they all have white zigzagged markings on their bodies outlined in black. Juveniles will often remain motionless, drifting back and forth in the current mimicking a piece of detached seaweed. When an unsuspecting passerby moves in for a quick nibble, they swallow it whole.

Dragons are sold under a variety of trade names by the aquarium industry, including; masked, Indian, or the olive-scribbled wrasse. Juveniles are frequently sold as reindeer wrasse because the elaborate dorsal spines on their heads resemble the antlers of a deer. In Japan they are known as Obi-tensumodoki.

Dragons are hardy fish with aggressive temperaments. They should only be housed with larger, similarly aggressive species. They are extremely territorial toward conspecifics and should only be kept as a solitary specimen. These are not reef compatible fish. In nature the adults are continually over turning rocks in the hope of revealing mussels, snails, urchins, starfish, and crustaceans to consume. They are, in fact, often referred to as "rockmover wrasse" because of their knack for interior decorating. In additions to rocks, they will not hesitate in rearranging your coral collection. They can prove quite destructive in a reefs tank. As is a common trait among wrasse, dragons will bury themselves in the sand to sleep. You will require 2-4 inches of sand as a substrate if you intend to raise this species. A minimum tank size of 150 gallons is recommended. These fish are jumpers and should only be housed in an aquarium with a tightly fitted hood for their own protection.

Dragons are quite voracious carnivores. This species more often dies from malnutrition than all other factors combines. Their immense appetites earned them a moderate to advance care level rating. Their diet can include brine or mysid shrimp and live worms in addition to whatever carnivore based food preparation you choose to use as a staple. They can be fed virtually any freshly chopped seafood with the exception of oily fish. Larges specimens can eat feeder shrimp and fish. This species has a very fast metabolism. They will starve to death quickly if underfed. Dragons should be fed a minimum of 2-3 times daily.

By Stephen J Broy Saltwater fish and marine reef aquariums are fun and rewarding hobbies. Just thirty years ago the thought of successfully maintaining a home nano reef was almost unheard of. Less than a decade ago Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums were only found in large public aquarium facilities. Today raising Pet Moon Jellyfish is the hottest new trend in home aquarium ownership. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Saltwater Aquariums With No UV STERILIZER Equals Certain Troubles

I am shocked and surprised how often I come across marine aquariums (reef or fish only) that have no U.V. sterilizer filter. These aquarists are playing Russian roulette with their aquariums, running the risk of being vulnerable to a parasite outbreak.

A low pressure mercury vapor discharge tube floods the inside of a hood with shortwave UV light when not in use, sterilizing microbiological contaminants from irradiated surfaces.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are many different situations that can cause a disease and/or parasite outbreak in your marine aquarium. It could be adding new fish, or perhaps one of your fish changes sex and throws off the entire pecking order, or a fish dies or is removed and that throws off the pecking order; or say your chiller (if you have one) went on the fritz during a heat wave - and the list goes on.

And given that there are so many situations that could spark a disease or parasite outbreak, wouldn't you want to protect yourself (and your fish) against this likely possibility? Who wouldn't? And yet many aquarists don't have a U.V. sterilizer on their system. It's like rolling the dice and crossing your fingers, hoping you don't have a disease outbreak.

So, before I go any further, let me just say that - yes - you definitely need a U.V. sterilizer. That is, if you want your fish to live for years rather than months, and if you want to avoid even the possibility of a total system meltdown (scary scientific term). Yes, this is my opinion, but it is also backed up with over 11 years in keeping saltwater fish (primarily reef tanks) with only three disease outbreaks - and two of them were caused by human error. By disease outbreak, I mean multiple fish dying from parasite infestation. This is attributed to aggressive use of U.V. sterilizer filters. And don't forget, I'm not talking about just one tank. I run a high-end custom aquarium design, installation and maintenance business, where we service many customers with large saltwater aquariums.

So, yes, it's a bold statement. And it also happens to be true. See - I don't like problems or surprises when it comes to aquariums. Over the years of running my business, I have had to develop ways of preventing problems from even being able to happen on our customer's tanks; and then having designed the system to be prepared to accommodate the problem if it ever does happen. This is sort of our company philosophy to aquarium system design and it is a preventative approach designed to prevent problems - so that we put far less energy into reacting to and fixing problems. Any way - enough of that. Back to U.V. sterilization.

By now, you might be thinking "yeah right - I don't believe you". Well, I'm not saying that we've only seen parasites on some of our fish three times in 11 years. NOPE. We see low-levels of parasites on fish fairly often - but those fish are thriving and healthy and live long lives - typically for over five years, and are able to fight off the parasites. AND the parasites are not aloud to bloom to dangerous levels because the U.V. sterilizer kills the parasites when they are water born (verses dormant in the substrate) and looking for a host.

So, what is a U.V. sterilizer filter? The U.V. stands for ultraviolet sterilization. Basically, it contains a special light bulb which emits U.V. "C" light. U.V. "C" is the band of U.V. light that gives us sun burn. So, essentially, a U.V. sterilizer filter is "sun-burning-to-death" (scientific term) or sterilizing your aquarium water as it passes through the filter, and thus killing any water-born parasites. It runs 24/7 and is very cheap to operate and can PREVENT parasite outbreaks. What aquarist wouldn't want to be able to prevent a parasite outbreak? This is why having a U.V. is a no brainer MUST HAVE filter for your aquarium.

In addition, the U.V. filter will prevent bacteria blooms (caused by water-born bacteria - milky or cloudy water) and phytoplankton blooms (cause of green water). The result here is clear water. Of course, this doesn't remove the underlying cause of the bacteria bloom (excess organics and insufficient bio-filtration) which must still be dealt with.

Sizing is probably the most important factor when selecting your U.V. sterilizer for your aquarium. My general advice is to slightly oversize your U.V.. Most sizing charts are based on aquarium/system volume. The last thing you want is an undersized U.V., because then it is almost useless (i.e. it is too small to prevent disease outbreaks). Several parameters to consider are system/tank volume, water flow rate through the U.V. filter, and bio-load (how much life is in your tank). So again, when selecting your U.V. sterilizer, choose the next one up in size, as recommended on the sizing chart.

Example: If your aquarium is 100 gallons and the sizing chart recommends a 30watt UV for a 90g and a 40watt UV for a 120g, then go with the 40watt UV.

One of the primary criteria used in sizing a U.V. sterilizer is the water flow rate through the unit. See, if you send too much water (too high of a flow rate) through too small of a unit, then it won't be effective in killing the parasites. But for me (I'm lazy), that is too much work, calculating flow rates, etc., so what I do is take the manufacturers recommended sizing for my aquarium (gallons) and then choose the next larger size U.V.. This almost ensures that your U.V. will be effective in killing water-born parasites in your aquarium and preventing a disease outbreak. And nine times out of ten, if you do the calculations of water flow rate, UV kill rate, and total system volume, you will end up at the same size U.V. any way. One caviat here - this method is based on average bio-loading (average number of fish/invertebrates etc.) for any given tank volume. So if you are crazy aggressive with your stocking density of fish/corals/invertebrates/etc., then you may even want to choose a U.V. that is two sizes up.

Of course, U.V. is not the only effective way to sterilize against disease and parasites. Ozone is very effective if applied and monitored properly. But Ozone is far less forgiving than U.V., and while you cannot CAUSE any problems by over sizing a U.V. filter, you can cause BIG PROBLEMS by improperly applying and monitoring ozone. But more about ozone in future posts. For now, suffice it to say that U.V. is very safe and simple to apply to your aquarium filtration system, and there is no monitoring (unlike ozone).

You do need to ensure proper upkeep or maintenance of your U.V. sterilizer. Once a year, you must change the bulb and the O-ring and/or gasket, and clean off the quartz sleeve (housing the bulb). This may take 30 minutes to an hour to do, but is necessary because after a year of operation, the bulb has begun to lose its potency and the ozone gas produced by some U.V. bulbs will break down the O-ring and/or gaskets that seal off the quartz sleeve. And in some systems the quartz sleeve can accumulate mineral deposits that may reduce effectiveness of the U.V. bulb. A simple overnight vinegar bath and wipe-down with a sponge will do the trick.

Generally, I'm not big on having opinions. I like to be open-minded, and opinions tend to cut us off from being open to learning something new. But when something works as well and as consistently as this does, well, I feel strongly about it. The proof is in the pudding, as they say. I hope this is of help to you.

By Warren Gibbons Article Source: EzineArticles

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All About PEACOCK CICHLIDS

The peacock cichlid is growing in popularity as a pet. They are traced to Lake Malawi and Lake Tanganyika. The fish are regarded as being amongst the most beautiful cichlids. And best of all they are some of the most peaceful of all the cichlid species.

They are best for large aquariums and are great for display due to their colors and a massive size. They are named after the peacock's colorful displays. The peacock cichlid has an elongated and a much higher back than other cichlids where their pelvic and the pectoral fins are a bit longer.

"Aulonocara hansbaenschi RB2".  Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Commons.

The males grow to around 15 centimeters while females grow up to 4 centimeters. A dark indigo blue characterizes their colors from the lower jaw up to the rear part of the body. You will not need to breed the males and females of the peacock cichlid separately.

They breed very well and display a beautiful blend of colors. They are considered members of the free swimming Haplochromis group. In their natural habitat, they are known to form schools. While breeding them, it is advised that you have one or two males interact with a larger number of females. This will encourage breeding and you could have a whole school in no time.

The peacock cichlid is a mild aggression type of fish. Since the fish exhibit aggressive tendencies, you will need to build their aquarium with this in mind. They will increase in aggression when confined into these small tanks. Taking this in mind, you can be able to inhibit the aggression as well with extra water volume per fish.

You could also increase breeding. The tank should be around 100cm with capacity for up to 55 gallons of water. In the aquarium, you should set up rocks and provide crevices and cave like designs. Remember the fish's original habitat included crevices and caves.

The water needs to be alkaline in nature therefore; it is advised that you use coral sand substrate. Since the water may change rapidly, it is a good idea to have it changed as frequently as possible. A dirty fish tank is not only disturbing to the eye but also unsafe for fish. The aggression of the peacock cichlid is very minimal compared to most Lake Malawi counterparts.

However, they are good in defending their school and will form territories too. You should not place peacock cichlid with smaller fishes since they may look at them as food. They can be put into the same tank with like-sized fishes like cat fish. Mbunas should not be chosen as tank-mates for the peacock cichlid.

They tend to be far more aggressive. Peacock cichlids are omnivores. It is a simple task when it comes to feeding since they are not choosy. They can be fed from foods such as bloodworm, mosquito larvae and crustaceans. The water pH level should be a bit above 8 but not exceed 8.2. They need a relatively warm water temperature of between 26 and 29 degrees Celsius.

By Pauly Freeman Article Source: EzineArticles

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Tips on GREEN SPOTTED PUFFER FISH Care

The green spotted puffer, Tetraodon nigroviridis, is indigenous to Africa and Asia. Their natural habitat ranges from Sri Lanka, throughout Indonesia and north to China and south to Africa. Despite the fact that this species is frequently kept in freshwater tanks and sold as a freshwater fish by many retailers, this is a brackish fish. They inhabit brackish costal estuaries, lagoons and river and stream openings. During the rainy season green spotted puffers frequently make their way into seasonal floodplains.

Tetraodon nigroviridis - The green puffer fish   (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Although this fish can survive in a strictly freshwater environment a salinity level of 1.005-08 for juveniles and 1.018-22 for adult puffers will insure optimum health and longevity. That said; green spotted puffers can be successfully drip acclimated to either freshwater or saltwater. Puffers are commonly kept by saltwater aquarists. As juveniles, puffers swim back and forth between fresh, salt and brackish water conditions. As the fish matures it will instinctively migrate to a saltwater environment. A puffer fish maintained in proper water conditions can frequently live in excess of ten years. A puffer raised in a freshwater environment will not reach its full growth potential nor have the vibrant coloration of a saltwater puffer.

Many novice aquarists make the mistake of adding a green spotted puffer to their community tank because they are so adorable. Their bulging eyes, rounded bellies and leopard spot patterns indeed make them a unique addition to a freshwater tank. Disney movies have undoubtedly led to the increased popularity of this fish among aquarium owners. Make no mistake; green spotted puffers are natural born killers. They do not make good community fish. This species is best delegated to a mono-species tank for both its brackish water needs and its predatory instinct. Although puffers are not shoaling fish they are tolerant of conspecifics. This makes them even more eligible for a mono-species tank.

Puffers have rock hard beaks and razor sharp teeth. In the wild their diet consists of other fish, crustaceans, mollusks and insects. These voracious carnivores can bite right through hard shell clams. It is nothing for them to take a hefty bite out of another fish in a community tanks setting. Juvenile puffers (especially when introduced to an established population) may seem docile perhaps even timid. But it is only a matter of time before their predatory nature takes over. If you choose to disregard this warning, be prepared to loose members of your community tank as your puffer matures and establishes its own territorial boundaries in its new surroundings. Extreme caution should be used in choosing a puffers tank mates. Larger, more aggressive species have a better chance of holding their own against these tenacious little buggers. Avoid mixing them with long finned species such as bettas and angelfish. Puffers are notorious fin nippers. If fish suddenly start dying or have segments of fin or body tissue missing you puffer is almost certainly the culprit. Puffers become far more aggressive as adults. They can reach up to six inches long when fully mature. Keep this in mind when deciding what other species to mix them with. The adorable little puffer in the fish store is just a baby.

In order to thrive, puffers need a high protein diet. While flake food is acceptable, additional protein supplements will help maintain a puffer's long-term health and color palette. Young puffer fish can be fed frozen or freeze-dried krill or plankton. Ghost shrimp, and small insects, worms and snails also make appropriate menu items. Snails are considered an essential part of a proper puffer's nutritional regiment. Mollusks and crustaceans are a large part of a puffer's dietary intake in the wild. A puffer's teeth will continue to grow even after it has reached full maturity. Their teeth can actually overgrow to the point of filling their entire mouth cavity. This can and will lead to eventual starvation. Dietary supplements of hard shelled mollusks will help keep a puffer's teeth trimmed. Adult puffers can be fed scallops, shrimp, whole mussels, clams, oysters, crayfish and even crab legs. Puffers are messy eaters. They generate a lot of waste both in expulsion and in uneaten food particles. Routine partial water changes are essential for optimum health.

The ideal water temperature for this species is 78-82 °F. An alkaline based pH of around 8 is considered perfect. Adding Aragonite or crushed coral to your substrate will help naturally establish stable alkaline parameters. A minimum tank size of 30 gallons is recommended. An abundance of tank décor to break the puffer's line of sight and help it to establish its own territorial boundaries is highly recommended. This will help diminish aggressive behavior. Puffers are accomplished jumpers. As juveniles they will jump from one coastal puddle to another in search of food. An aquarium with a tightly fitting tank top is essential for the fish's safety.

Green spotted puffers are not raised on fish farms. They are caught from the wild for the fish trade industry. Internal parasite infestation is common. Be sure to choose an active specimen with a well rounded belly, a colorful palette and clear rather than foggy eyes. Keeping your puffer in an isolation tank for a period of no less than one week is highly recommended. Food stuff soaked in Discomed by Aquatronics will eliminate internal parasite infestation.

The ability of a puffer fish to bloat its body is a survival mechanism against predation. A puffer's body can expand to over twice its normal size. This is accomplished by the fish rapidly inflating its stomach with water. Despite what you see in Disney movies you may never actually see your puffer fish puff. Puffers only inflate their stomachs when they are in high stress situations or in fear of being ingested by another predator. Green spotted puffers, like all puffer fish, are poisonous. Their skin and organs contain tetrodotoxin, a highly potent neurotoxin whose affects in small does can cause a euphoric state of mind. Puffer poisoning is responsible for the deaths for several daring Japanese sushi enthusiasts every year.

Green spotted puffers are not bred in captivity for commercial purposes. There are reports of them being successfully bred by home aquarists. We were unable to find any detailed information on the breeding of this species.

By Stephen J Broy The hottest new trend in aquarium ownership is pet jellyfish. Jellyfish require a specially designed Jellyfish Aquarium Fish Tank to remain alive and healthy. Jellyfish aquariums are easier to maintain than a traditional saltwater tank. Pet Moon Jellyfish have become exceptionally popular in recent years with home aquarists both for their unparalleled elegance and ease of care. The market for moon jellies has increased to the point that two US based websites are now tank raising these exotic creatures to keep pace with the growing demand. Article Source: EzineArticles

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English: Tetraodon nigroviridis - The green puffer fish Deutsch: Tetraodon nigroviridis - Der grüne Kugelfisch (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

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PIRANHA FISH - Feeding Your Pet Piranhas

Contrary to common belief, piranhas do not only eat live food. In fact, they do not only eat meat. Piranhas are omnivores, which means that they can eat just about anything (meat as well as greens.) It is important to keep your piranha's diet varied. Piranhas can be taught to eat dead food. When feeding your piranha dead food, it might be best to splash it around a bit (to mimic live behavior) just long enough to grab your piranha's attention. When feeding your piranhas live food, it's extremely important to understand the risks involved. Many of these feeders are in poor health, and can carry diseases which may pass on to your piranhas. Make sure to quarantine any live feeders before feeding them to your piranhas.

Piranhas
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

HERE IS A LIST OF FOOD THAT YOUR PIRANHAS CAN ENJOY:

Beef

Chicken

Crayfish

Cod

Eel

Earthworms

Krill

Pellets

Salmon

Shrimp

shall feeders (minnows, pinkies, frogs, etc...)

Small insects

Squid

Smelt

Sprats

Trout

Tuna

Piranhas are not particularly picky fish when it comes to food. They will eat just about anything edible that is dropped into the tank. If you have just purchased your piranhas and they are not eating, do not worry. It might take your piranhas awhile before they start eating. Piranhas take time before they get comfortable and acquainted to their new environment, so they might not eat much during the first few days or even weeks. There are a couple of things that you can do to help speed up this process. You can:

TURN OFF THE LIGHTS FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS.

Piranhas do not like the light much. They come from murky waters so turning down the lights will help reduce their stress.

TURN UP THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY.

Doing this will help stimulate your piranha's appetite. Be careful not to over-do it though. 1-2 degrees should be fine.

MAKE SURE TO GIVE YOUR PIRANHAS ENOUGH PLACES TO HIDE IN YOUR TANK.

Not doing so will leave your piranhas feeling exposed, and this will only prolong the settling down period.

The most important thing you can do is to give it time. Piranhas will not starve to death, so try feeding it a bit every once in awhile. After a certain period of time, your piranhas will get used to their new home and begin to feed normally.

By Osbaldo Martinez Article Source: EzineArticles

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