Advice on Changing the AQUARIUM SALT WATER

Photo by FromSandToGlass 

If left in the tank the waste materials will turn the water cloudy, or even yellow and can cause a buildup of algae on the aquarium's sides. Plus it can also prevent the fish and corals (if you have any in yours) from growing in the way that they should, along with causing them stress, and this in turn could lead to them becoming ill. So the question you should be asking yourself is not should I change the salt water in the aquarium, but when should it be changed?

When Is The Right Time To Change Aquarium Salt Water?

Ideally you shouldn't be leaving the tank until such a time (maybe several months) before you change the aquarium salt water and provide all the tropical fish and invertebrates within it, a new clean environment. The big problem is that many people choose to remove the tropical aquarium fish and invertebrates from the tank, and then clean out the water completely. Unfortunately this could do your tropical fish, invertebrates and the reef inside more harm than good.

Rather what one should be doing is change a small amount of the salt water on a regular basis, and keep the fish and invertebrates in the tank as you do it. Ideally the best ratio when it comes to changing the salt water is to remove about 1/3 of the water from the tank and replace with the same amount of water.

Simple Steps To Take When Changing Aquarium Salt Water

1. First off you need to unplug every piece of electrical equipment, other than the light which is connected to the aquarium. The pumps and filters if left on, can actually overheat if they discover there is insufficient water in the tank. Also heater systems if left on when new water is added to the tank, may well cause the glass to crack (remember how much that tank initially cost and the price you will have to pay to replace it).
2. Take an aquarium scrubber or scraper accessories and use this in order to clean the inside of the glass of the aquarium to help remove any buildup of algae or waste deposits that have come from the fish food on them. You need to do this very slowly and gently in order to prevent the fish species from becoming panicked.
3. After scraping the glass you need to take out any plants within the tank and remove any dead or dying parts on them. Also stir up the gravel in the base (be careful as some fish like to bury themselves in it). As you do, bank some of it high towards the back corners of the aquarium and leave the levels lower in the middle and the front. Give the gravel time to settle and you will see waste deposits accumulate on top of the lower lying gravel.
4. Now you are ready to siphon off some of the aquarium salt water (remember only to take away around a third of the tank's water and no more). As you siphon off the salt water using one of the specialist aquarium products that allows you to drain water from the tank at the same time as removing the water, try to remove as much of the debris that has accumulated as possible.
5. Next you need to replace the water that has been removed and it is best to use aged rather than freshwater. This you can do by either letting it stand for some time or by adding certain salt mix products to it. You should only ever add aquarium salt to your water and never just sea salt. Also make sure that the temperature of the water you are putting into the tank is within 2 degrees Fahrenheit of the temperature of the water already in the tank. Then add some aquarium salt if you want.

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Ultimate Secrets to Saltwater Aquarium Fish and Corals

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Finally, all one now needs to do after changing the water in your tank is to plug back in and turn on the pieces of equipment that you originally turned off at the start. Also why not at this stage give the cover of your tank a cleaning and the light along with the outsides of your tank.

By Trish Hunter For more saltwater aquarium tips and saltwater aquarium supplies visit The Aquarium Lady [http://www.theaquariumlady.com] Article Source: EzineArticles

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PH Levels in The DISCUS TANK

Because it is imperative that discus fish have optimal water conditions, much has been written about this subject,  This is the plan put in place to insure proper PH water levels in our hatchery.

Allnut Enterprises' breeder, Nick Lockhart of Noblesville, Indiana, has many ingenious ideas as to how to accomplish things in the hatchery.  We begin our experiment with two matched pairs: two red melons, and two leopardskins.  They are lovely, friendly fish, and have been getting acclimated to our tanks and the aquarist since the end of June.

Initially, we begin to prepare for the new arrivals by setting up the tanks in this manner:  water was tested for PH and nitrite levels, and a proper ecosystem for active bacteria was begin by populating the tank with cichlids that Nick has been raising prior to the purchase of the discus.  When we felt that the water/bacteria levels were correct, we set up the meeting with the breeder, and made the trip to Bloomington, Indiana.

Upon arrival at home base with a travel time of about an hour and a half, we immediately begin to acclimate the pairs to their new home.  We were advised by the breeder to let them acclimate to the new tank water by "floating" the bags containing the fish for approximately one hour to equalize the temperatures, and to add a cup of water to the bag from the tank to equalize PH levels.

We did not, however, follow this procedure.  We took approximately six hours to acclimate by adding a cup of the tank water to the bag each hour, and keeping a close eye on the discus and PH levels, because they were stressed from the trip. A Hanna PH digital meter was used for testing, which gave us a very accurate reading.  As large changes in PH in a short period can shock the discus, we were careful in this approach.  Our water at the time matched the water in PH levels from the breeder closely.

Because the two pair were bought for breeding purposes, Nick was not comfortable with the PH level, which at that time was at approximately 7.5, high for optimal breeding conditions of 6.5-6.9.  What to do?

We had read that hanging a mesh bag of peat moss would help to lower the PH, but were not happy with the idea of having debris from the Peat in our tanks, which are kept scrupulously clean. We knew there had to be a better way to accomplish this goal.

Because Nick lives in town, and has city water, he uses a Reverse Osmosis filtering system to insure that the water is free of chemicals and suitable for the aquarium.  Knowing that Peat Moss will lower the PH in an aquarium system, and having a large bag left over from making culture for Grindal and White Worms, he took a 5 gallon pail, and drilled a series of holes around the perimeter of the bottom of the pail, using a 3/32" drill.  He then lined the bottom of the pail with a think layer of regular aquarium filter floss, and topped that off with a thick layer of Peat Moss, with the finished pail being about two-thirds full.

The outlet hose from the RO system was then allowed to drain into this pail.  Setting the pail over the top of the holding tank, the water slowly drained down through this medium into the holding tank.

Initial test of the recycled water showed a drop in PH to below the base of 7.0.  We have been adding the water to the discus tanks slowly through water changes so as to not shock the fish, and at our business meeting this weekend, Nick informed me that the PH levels in the discus tanks are now at approximately 6.6, which is the optimal level for breeding discus.

Cost of the project?  If you already are using an RO system, and have a holding tank, you will spend a twenty dollar bill getting the Peat Moss and filter floss.  Not bad, considering a breeding pair of dicus can run you $425 dollars!

Alden Smith is CEO of Allnut Enterprises, a diversified company, and is involved with discus breeding.  His website is http://www.kingdiscus.blogspot.com Article Directory: EzineArticles

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What Is a REFRACTOMETER?

As a marine aquarium keeper, it's your job to maintain an environment as close to what your organisms are accustomed to as possible. Unless your livestock came directly from Utah's Great Salt Lake, too much salinity in your water can be harmful. However, not enough salinity also can make your fish or coral uncomfortable. This is where a piece of equipment called a refractometer comes in handy.

What Is a Refractometer?

Because a refractometer can determine the salinity of your aquarium water, it is a tool worth having on hand, especially if you have a reef aquarium. A refractometer is a piece of equipment that measures the speed of light passing through a liquid, in this case through a sampling of seawater from your aquarium. The more particulates there are in the water, the slower light travels through the water. Depending on where the light falls on the refractometer's built-in scale determines the salinity in your marine aquarium. This also allows you to measure the specific gravity of your seawater. The specific gravity is the density of salt in your aquarium water as compared to fresh water.

The determination of salinity is based on the index of refraction. For example, if you use your refractometer in a vacuum, such as in outer space, the device's index scale should read 1.0000. The index for pure water is 1.3330. For seawater at 35 parts per thousand (ppt), the index reading should be 1.024-1.026. If your refractometer reads higher or lower than 1.024, then you may need to adjust the chemical composition of your aquarium water.

What to Look for When Purchasing a Refractometer

When buying a refractometer, make sure the one you choose is specifically for seawater use. Many refractometers on the market are manufactured only to measure the salinity of sodium chloride solutions. These types are referred to as brine or salt refractometers. They are good for measuring the saltiness of Aunt Sally's blue ribbon pickles, but, as you know, a marine aquarium contains more than just sodium chloride, such as trace elements, calcium, carbonates and magnesium. A seawater refractometer takes these into account.

You also want a refractometer that, once calibrated, automatically takes water temperature into consideration in the reading. Without this automatic temperature compensation (ATC), your reading can be misleading, since warmer water expands slightly, allowing light to pass through more easily. This means your tank of warm water may appear to have less salinity than is actually present.

Other handy aspects of a good refractometer include a dual scale that measures both specific gravity and parts per thousand, and an eyepiece you can adjust in order to clearly read the scale.

How to Read a Refractometer

First, open the cover to the refractometer's prism. Using a clean pipette, take a sample of aquarium water and place a drop or two onto the prism plate, then close the cover. Hold the refractometer to the light and look through the eyepiece, adjusting the eyepiece until you can clearly see the scale. One side of the scale measures the salinity of the water in parts per thousand, which for seawater should read 35 ppt. The other side of the scale lets you know the specific gravity, which is 1.024 for seawater.

As you look through the eyepiece, you will notice that the top part of the scale is blue, while the bottom portion of the scale looks white. Your reading should be taken at the spot where the blue and white meet on the scale.

For the serious marine aquarium person, a refractometer can be a great addition to your tool box, because you can receive more accurate readings than from the traditional hydrometer. But, the refractometer does need to be calibrated in order to give you an accurate reading. Follow manufacturer's instructions to properly calibrate your particular refractometer.

By Richard Gilliland Aquarium refractometers and Aqua Illumination  Article Source: EzineArticles

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Pros and Cons of Using Reverse OSMOSIS Systems

The term “reverse osmosis systems” may sound too scientific to you, but these are as common to everyday life as the water you drink. To put it simply, reverse osmosis (RO) systems used in households refer to purifying devices, which forcibly separate solutes from water with the use of a partially permeable membrane (filter) and water pressure. To decide whether you need one, you must first understand how it works as well as its pros and cons.

Reverse osmosis device for auqarium water treatment  (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Understanding reverse osmosis - In osmosis, a selectively permeable membrane divides a solution according to its solute concentration. The natural motion of a liquid solution (osmotic pressure) causes its molecules to pass through the membrane in the direction of low to high concentration.

By contrast, reverse osmosis systems cause the solution to flow from high to low concentration, preventing substances with larger molecules from coming through the membrane. Reverse osmosis systems also work differently in that they utilize external force.

Domestic uses of reverse osmosis (RO) systems - Various RO systems are not only used in healthcare (e.g., dialysis), manufacturing, and urban planning, but reverse osmosis is also used at home for drinking water filtration and aquarium maintenance. In developed countries, tap water goes through water purification systems that use reverse osmosis among other means of treating water. In many parts of the world, RO water treatment devices for domestic use are quickly rising in popularity, mostly through door-to-door sales and appliance store promotions.

Aside from potable water supply, RO systems are popular among aquarists, especially those who maintain a reef aquarium. If you plan to set up (or trade in) your freshwater fish-only tank for a reef aquarium in your home, then you should invest in good reverse osmosis systems. A reef aquarium has higher water chemistry requirements than a fish-only aquarium, especially in terms of salinity, so you need to use an RO system to simulate seawater. In addition, water supply to your home is chemically treated, and as such, it means trouble for the living things inside your tank. Substances can contaminate your reef tank’s delicate condition and encourage the growth of algae. Although the presence of algae in your tank is beneficial up to a certain point, having too many is bad in that algae compete with organisms in your tank for nutrients.  They are also unsightly.

Advantages and disadvantages - Reverse osmosis systems are chemical-free, so whether you’re buying a device for drinking water filtration or aquarium maintenance, this is their biggest advantage. Reverse osmosis doesn’t affect the smell and taste of water, doesn't require high maintenance, and doesn't use up too much power.

However, RO systems have low back pressure, so the volume of water that they need is also great.  Continued use will also quickly fill up your septic tank. RO systems are not “purifiers,” as they are only capable of filtering solutes but not killing bacteria. In addition, they may also filter out useful substances, such as calcium and magnesium.

Reverse Osmosis systems are relatively environment-friendly and efficient. However, RO systems for home use may not be as cost-effective and efficient as they usually are at industry level, so examine your needs first before making a decision.

Andy Seitz is an aquarium enthusiast and pet store owner who has been a featured member and guest lecturer at many aquarium clubs. To learn more about reverse osmosis systems and ultraviolet aquarium sterilizers, please go to marinedepot.com. Article Directory: Article Dashboard

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The Rudiments Of WATER CHEMISTRY

A relatively cheap electronic pH meter. 

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Most aquarists will happily debate water quality to the point of being obsessive. Water is, after all, the atmosphere on which your pets depend.

It isn't necessary to have a degree in chemistry to maintain a healthy aquarium, but you will need to do some water testing.

Axolotls are extremely sensitive to water quality. You must be prepared to test the water in your tank on a weekly basis to ensure your pet's continued good health.

With that in mind, there are some basic measurements you need to at least understand to some degree.

Acidity or Per Hydrogen (pH)

The "pH" sign for most people signals an assessment of acidity. When viewed as a scale, low numbers mean greater acidity and higher numbers indicate "basic" or alkaline water.

The actual measurement is the balance in the water between hydrogen (H+) and hydroxide (OH) ions. Axolotls are freshwater creatures, so they need a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5.

Carbonate Hardness (KH)

With this measurement, it's easy to confuse terms. KH refers to alkalinity, which is not the same thing as "alkaline."

Alkalinity is a description of the water's ability to neutralize and absorb acid, thereby acting as a "buffer." If the KH level in water is high, there won't be many changes in the pH level, and the water will be more stable.

Specific Gravity (sg)

In its most simple terms, specific gravity measures the salinity of water. It is taken with a hydrometer or a refractometer. Since axolotl are freshwater creatures, the specific gravity of their water should be around 1.0000.

Hard vs. Soft Water

Axolotls prefer slightly hard water. If you have limescale in your cookware or around your pipes, you have hard water.

If your axolotl is living in water that is too soft, its color will fade, especially the shade of the gills. This indicates your pet is suffering from temporary anemia. You will need to add salts to the water to increase the hardness.

Since these equations can be confusing, it's best to find out in advance if the water in your area is hard or soft and consult with an experienced aquarist about the best corrective measures to test.

The variance in water quality in this regard can be so extensive, there is no one set formula to "fix" the measurement. In general, however, soft water tends to be more acidic and hard water is more alkaline in terms of pH.

By Lolly Brown Axolotl water chemistry can be tricky. Here is more information on Axolotl and how to care for them. Article Source: EzineArticles

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The Water Parameters For DISCUS FISH

The Amazon River is full of rooting vegetation which is a direct cause of the acid nature of the water.

Before you choose your Discus you must have the water parameters correct or matching closely to the place of where you are to buy your discus Fish.

Unless you are lucky enough to live in a place where the natural tap water is Acid and Soft, you will need the use of a Reverse Osmosis filter and a HMA filter.

The RO filter will remove 99.9% of everything in the water, making the Ph around 6.2 depending on where you live. The HMA filter will remove the heavy metals and the Chlorine, which are extremely harmful to discus. The HMA will not alter the Ph which is ideal, because we can use that to blend with the RO water to make the correct Ph.

Now if you are breeding you will need the Ph to be between 6.2 and 6.5. If you are just keeping discus say in a show tank you will need the Ph between 6.7 and 7.0. With the hardness between 3 and 5GH.

I like to use 'Indian Almond Leaves' in all my discus tanks as I find it gives a natural additive to the water similar to liquids you can buy which claim to add chemicals to the water that will give you that Amazon river consistency. The top breeders in the far east use these leaves. I always favour the natural approach every time!

Temperature should be 29 degrees centigrade.

Do your water changes regularly, the often the better, and you will not go far wrong!

Article Directory: EzineArticles

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Balancing CO2 in the PLANTED AQUARIUM

Carbon dioxide is a crucial element of photosynthesis where plants rearrange molecules of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen to build basic sugar structures, which provide them and the rest of the food chain with energy. The right balance of carbon dioxide is important for plant growth and the continued health of your plants.

A Co2 deficiency is visible in the form of slower plant growth and a slow yet continuous rise in water pH. In many species of plants you will also notice calcium deposits on leaves, turning them a pale yellow or white depending on the severity of the condition. For many more demanding plants it is important to add additional carbon dioxide to the water as well as keeping other conditions favourable. However, too much carbon dioxide in the water can be detrimental to other aquatic life, striking a balance between the amount of oxygen and carbon dioxide is important.

In aquariums which do not contain live aquarium plants shortages of oxygen are one of the biggest problems, which can in part be corrected with air-stones which aim to offer better aeration. In the presence of excessive Co2 fish will spend a lot of time at the surface of the water, increased gilling is visibly noticeable and it seems as if the fish are struggling to breathe. With too much Co2 the fish will suffer and without enough, the plants will instead. To maintain balanced water chemistry carry out regular water changes and be proactive to changes in the aquarium environment.

It may be necessary to add additional Co2 to the aquarium when growing aquatic plants, particularly if you are more experienced an have chosen to use more exotic species. There are a variety of options available if you decide to use carbon dioxide injections in the aquarium, from commercial systems to doing it yourself. If you keep plants with high demands of carbon dioxide, the larger the plants become the greater their need will be.

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Maintaining a healthy balance where water chemistry is concerned requires attention to the aquariums and the inhabitants. Problems with a lack or macronutrients become visible in plants quickly, as do problems with an overload or deficiency of carbon dioxide. If possible it is often helpful to use water testing kits to get a general feel of what is in your water and if there is anything that you could change to the benefit of the aquarium.

Live aquarium plants are an awesome way to improve the quality of your aquarium. Make your water cleaner and keep your fish happy. Find out you can do it with live aquarium plants. Article Directory: EzineArticles

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