Brilliant Innovations in AQUARIUM MAINTENANCE - SAND FILTER and Gravel Washer

With the popularity of aquarium keeping hobby on the rise, came about newer technology developments that offers utmost convenience to the many aquarists worldwide. Such equipments and supplies are constantly invented and re-invented to help aquarium keepers take advantage of the most effective fish keeping practices possible and help maintain their fishes in the best condition. 

With the discovery of the most basic filtration systems, pumps, and aeration systems, aquarists have discovered the great difference brought about by these technologies. Greater appreciation was felt when the market made available the use of more upgraded filters, UV sterilizers, automatic fish food dispensers, water testing kits, water pH analyzers, flow meters, aquarium heaters, wave makers and a few more brilliant ideas that do make life easier for aquarium owners.

Of the many innovations in the fish keeping and aquarium maintenance tools, the fish tank gravel washer proves to be one of those that offers many advantages. An amazing tool that makes gravel cleaning very convenient, efficient, and gets things done in half the time you usually spend when doing it manually. Its mechanism works by removing dirt from the gravel while simultaneously performing water change without disturbing the gravel and tank decorations, sparing you from having to remove your tank's contents every water change. Not only it greatly helps keep your tank clean, it also saves you a lot of back-breaking work and time. 

Another impressive innovation that is found very useful in tank maintenance is the fish tank sand filter. Unlike traditional filters commonly used in many tanks, this one utilizes sand as medium for bacteria settlement. The sand, which contains some good bacteria, is a vital part of the filter itself, breaking down harmful chemicals particularly ammonia and nitrite which are known bi-products of fish waste and food debris. The beneficial bacteria is said to convert these toxics to something more harmless called the nitrate. This mechanism is also found to greatly help maintain water clarity as well as improve the water quality.

Both useful equipments, the sand filter and gravel washer, could now be easily found in many local aquatic supply stores and many online places specializing in aquarium maintenance equipments. Each may come in many brands, and prices may vary according to its sophistication. Larger tanks would naturally need larger filters or greater washer capacity. Surely there would be newer tools that would offer the same benefits for your tank, your tank water and most especially to your fishes, such discoveries and innovations would always be welcomed by aquarists.

The fish tank gravel washer and fish tank sand filter are indeed remarkable tools. How they could keep your tank clean and your fishes healthy makes them excellent additions to your aquarium.

---

---

FILTRATION: Necessary process to poison free aquarium water

Filtration system in a typical aquarium: (1) intake, (2) mechanical filtration, (3) chemical filtration, (4) biological filtration medium, (5) outflow to tank (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In order to have poison free aquarium water, the filtration process is very important to the aquarist. Since most aquarists are aware of the fact that their aquarium water gradually accumulates potentially harmful substances, which eventually poison their fishes. In order to prevent this from happening there is a need for filtration, therefore, for our purpose, I would define filtration as the removal of unwanted substances from water.

Most aquarist uses three types:
Biological,
mechanical,
chemical amongst which the biological is the most important.

Biological filtration is also referred to as undergravel filtration because the major equipment used (a flat plate of perforated plastic) is placed under the gravel bed hence it is invisible. Unless you are properly equipped, you can’t see the process happening and cannot measure its effect. Yet this process is the major difference between success and failure, and the aquarist who does not take the time to understand its workings is doomed to watch an endless procession of dying fishes passing through his tank.

Biological filtration is solely the work of bacteria attached to the surfaces of the gravel, the grave and the under gravel filter together constitute the filter bed. Bacteria normally reach the filter bed through the food you give the fishes.

The waste product of the fishes, the air, and even by your hands as you are working in the tank.

---

---

Different Types of FILTERS

A commercially available canister filter (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Aquarium filters are an absolute must in keeping a proper fish tank setup.  No one has operated an effective aquarium system without properly functioning fish tank filters or aquarium filters.  The importance of aquarium filters is not subject to debate; they are an essential part of any aquarium system.  You do not need to be intimated by this because as essential as it is, fish tank filters do not require too much effort and money from aquarium owners.

Whether you are a hobbyist or a serious aquarist, your main goal is to provide the best possible environment for your fish to not just live, but thrive in.  Thus, you must give a lot of thought to which fish tank filters and filter media should be used to produce the most excellent results within your budget.  You will be glad to find that there are a lot of options available to meet your demands, needs, and restrictions.

The importance of aquarium and fish tank filters

Aquarium filters are essential because they rid your aquarium of chemical waste products, both soluble and physical.  Fish tank filters simplify the maintenance of your aquarium or fish tank setup.  You should remember that fish tanks are definitely smaller counterparts of the natural habitat that your fish are used to.  Thus, aquarium filters are essential in supporting the fish's existence.

As with all living organisms, fish and other possible animals that you can put in your aquarium produce waste materials through breathing and their excrement.  Aside from this, food or plants that are not consumed and other organisms that have died inside the fish tank can also add to the waste.   These waste products contaminate the water, making it dirty as they continue to collect.  As more waste products are collected, thereby contaminating the water, there's a higher health risk for organisms living inside the aquarium.  This is where filtration comes in.  Installing fish tank filters is a tried and tested method to make sure that the aquarium will continue to be a conducive environment for your fish and other aquatic pets.  Simply put, no one wants to live in a dirty house, not even fish.

What are filter media?

Filter media are the materials present in aquarium filters, where the water passes through.  Once the water passed through the filter media, the main cleaning or filtration action begins.  There are three kinds of filter media in aquarium filters: biological, mechanical, and chemical.

Mechanical filter media are composed of synthetic fibers.  These fibers vary in roughness and come in two forms: sponge and floss.  Mechanical media are the front liners in the cleaning process happening in fish tank filters because they are the first to absorb large debris and dirt that can cause damage to the more delicate chemical and biological media.  Mechanical filter media have to be cleaned on a regular basis, but this shouldn't be a problem since the debris can be easily rinsed away from the filter.

The main role of biological filter media is to remove toxins such as nitrates, ammonia, and nitrites that are present in organic wastes produced by the living organisms in the aquarium.  Biological filter media come in the form of bio-balls, rings, substrates, and gravel, which should be increased when you add more pets to your fish tank.

An internal aquarium filter is driven by air displacement
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Lastly, chemical filter media are responsible for removing other pollutants that the two other types cannot get rid of.  These pollutants range from air pollutants and organic compounds from biological processes to bi-products of fish medications.  Chemical filter media usually take care of unwanted odors or colors in your aquarium water.  Carbon and resin are the usual components of this type of filter media.

How do aquarium canister filters work?

Aquarium canister filters are currently becoming the most common type of aquarium filters.  Canister filters are situated below the tank, inside the stand of the fish tank.  They have cylinders that are closed, measuring around 15 inches in length, with locking lids that have two valves.  The intake valve draws water into the aquarium canister filters, where the water passes through the media.  The outtake valve spews out filtered water back into the tank.  Canister filters are easy to maintain unlike the more popular HOB or hang on back filters.  Usually, aquarium canister filters can still be effective even if only undergoing maintenance once or twice a year.

What is a wet/dry filter?

Wet/dry filters used to be an extremely popular choice for biological filtration in the saltwater aquarium hobby. Advancements in filtration technology have made the wet/dry filter a less popular choice. In fact, some more hardcore hobbyists have labeled them as "nitrate factories."

Wet/dry filters are very good at breaking down ammonia into nitrate. They provide an aerobic environment for bacteria to break down waste so they do not deplete oxygen from your aquarium. Unfortunately, aquarium wet/dry filters [http://www.marinedepot.com/wet_dry_filters__index-ap.html] are almost too efficient for a reef tank and may cause nitrate levels to build up too fast. That's why many hobbyists prefer using live rock in the reef aquarium environment as their primary biological filtration.

By Todd J. Nelson - Article Source: EzineArticles

---

---

Accessories Needed to Enrich Your AQUARIUM, Filters, and ANGELFISH

Sponges, plastic balls, ceramic tubes and gravel
are all suitable for aquarium filtration
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Accessories Needed to Enrich Your Aquarium.  There are many items on the market to make the maintenance of your aquarium easier!  Some of these include:

* Timers:  Timers aid you in supplying a consistent amount of daily light to your aquarium that is not possible when using a manual system of turning your lights on and off.

* Automatic Feeders:  These are great if you travel; however, they should not be used for daily feeding as you need to spend a little time each day to check on the fish and make sure the aquarium is set up and running properly.

*Ozone Treatments:  Ozone kills bacteria and speeds the breakdown of nitrates and it is a priceless aid for fish breeding. In soft water, the pH can be affected to the point that it can endanger the fish.

*Ultraviolet Radiators or Sterilizers:  These are also reliable in killing bacteria and other water germs without reaching the established bottom bacteria that is necessary for a biological filter system. If your fish suddenly begin shooting and reeling through the water, they may be suffering from nitrite poisoning, a very bad side effect of UV radiators.  If this occurs, the fish must immediately be placed in non-toxic aged aquarium water!

*Carbon Dioxide:   Essential to plant growth in aquariums.  It can be dissolved in the water by carbonation and plants will stagnate without carbon dioxide. Pouring carbonated water into your aquarium is one of the simplest ways of providing carbon dioxide to your plants. However, carbonated water contains salt, either added for flavor or it is naturally present. This is dangerous for your fish.

*Water Softeners:  These may be necessary for most of your decorative tropical fish come from mineral poor waters or soft waters. Most fish can easily survive in hard water, but if you want to breed or raise tropical fish, soft water is a necessity.

There are many other useful accessories for your aquarium from automatic water changes to adhesive films that show a plant design to magnets for cleaning the front glass.  Check with your pet store to see what is available in your area.

Aquarium Filters

Filters remove small particles and debris from the water.  While these small particles are not dangerous to the fish, they do hinder plant growth by filtering the light they need to grow.  In addition, they aid in gas exchange (oxygen and carbon dioxide) and prevent warm patches in the aquarium by circulating the water.

One type of filter for aquariums is a biological filter which includes material such as coarse gravel, basalt splinter, ceramic tubes, and lavalit.  After a few weeks, the materials become covered with bacteria.  However, the bacteria perform an important job in an aquarium in that it decomposes any deposited organic substances (from old fish food, and fish excrement).

What is being described here is bio-mineralization.  The tank byproducts are oxygen, nitrates, sulfates, and phosphates which are absorbed by the plants as nutrients.

Certain things must be taken into consideration before selecting a biological filter:

* The ratio of plants to fish to bacteria will never be balanced.

* The best filter can't replace the need for an occasional partial water change.

* The bacteria need oxygen and this is usually acquired by the water that is pouring through the filter. If the filter is turned off for several hours the bacteria will suffocate and die.

* A biological filter should never be turned off for more than 1-2 hours at most.

* In the beginning, you must be careful of the number of fish you stock and the amount of food that is given at feeding time as bacteria are too few to be able to effectively convert the organic waste.

Even with a bacteriological filter, the filter mass needs to be cleaned occasionally. During this cleaning, only the debris is removed by rinsing with cool-to-lukewarm water.  Excessive cleaning will destroy the valuable bacteria, leaving a small amount of the strata uncleaned in the filter will assure that the bacterial cultures will regenerate themselves.

Angelfish

Freshwater angelfish - (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Angelfish are large and very decorative cichlids which are found in the majority of community aquariums.  The wide variety of shapes, colors, and sizes make them a beautiful and entertaining addition to our aquariums. The Angelfish is a very undemanding decorative fish that are majestically calm and long-finned.

Angelfish do not eat plants and are available in several varieties:

* Veil fins

* Albino

* Marbles

* Silver

A few rules must be observed when introducing Angelfish to your tank.  Angelfish need well-planted tanks at least 1-meter side length but have no other special needs other than an occasional feeding of live food.   However, if they are combined with smaller fish when they are fully grown they may eat their smaller companion fish.

Angelfish immensely enjoy chasing small Neon's.  The danger is always present and recognizable until the angelfish becomes fully grown and decides his liking for neon food!  Another equally deadly combination with Angelfish is Headstanders.  At some point, Headstanders realize that the skin mucus of the angelfish is very tasty, and they begin to use the angelfish as take-out food! The Headstanders can damage the skin of the angelfish to the point that the angelfish can and will die.

Other than these two species, Angelfish can be easily mixed with other livebearers with an excellent outcome.  A pair of angels that are ready to spawn need their water to be very soft and slightly acidic. It is usually best to keep them in a tank that is highly planted with no companion fish.  Their eggs are laid on a large leaf, root, or a rock, and should be transferred to a different tank to hatch away from their parents because Angelfish are notoriously bad parents and do not properly care for their brood.

Many breeding books give detailed instructions on breeding angelfish and hundreds of other types of fish.

---

---

AQUARIUM FILTERS - The Pros and Cons of Each Filter

Having a good aquarium filter can make the difference between enjoying fish-keeping or not. Here are descriptions of the different kinds of aquarium filters available, what kind of tanks they are best for, and the overall pros and cons of each option.

My Afternoon - Photo by armigeress 

Corner filters

These small clear plastic box filters have an airstone that pushes water up through layers of floss and charcoal. The box sits in the gravel in a corner of the tank. Sometimes they need to be weighted down to keep them from floating. They are very cheap, but not terribly efficient. While they do add some aeration to a tank, you are not going to clean up a dirty tank with this kind of filter.

Sponge filters

These are similar to corner filter, but there is no floss or charcoal or even a plastic box -- all filtering is done through a sponge. Again, this is not a very efficient filter, but it does help. Sponge filters are used in fry and quarantine tanks because they create no strong currents, and they do clean up a tank a bit, and they provide some aeration. Fry may also enjoy nibbling algae off the sponge.

Undergravel filters

Undergravel may be the best choice for a standard community tank. You can also combine an undergravel filter with an exterior box filter for some extra clean water. The benefits are that undergravel filters are relatively cheap, they do a good job once they are established, and they do not create strong currents that some fish, like bettas or discus, will not like. These filters use biological and mechanical filtration by pulling the dirty water in the tank down through the gravel. The plastic aisles of the undergravel filter hold the gravel up so there is a small space at the bottom of the tank. This is where most of the debris is captured. The clean water is pushed up through two tubes on either side of the back of the aquarium and pushes the clean water out -- fairly gently -- through two window-shaped grates.

Undergravel filters use your aquarium's gravel as the filtration media. While there is mechanical filtration, most of the action is happening via biological filtration in the gravel. So these filters may take a few days to show you clean water. There's also no way to upgrade them aside from adding a powerhead, which is only going to add more pull. You will also need an air pump to run an undergravel filter. The stronger it is, the more filtration you will get.

External/hang on the side filters

These filters are boxes that do most of their work just outside of the tank. They hang on the side with an uptake tube that goes down into the tank. The dirty water is pulled up the intake tube and pushed through a series of sponges and usually a bag of activated carbon. This performs biological, mechanical and chemical filtration. The clean water is pushed out through a trough formation that spills into the tank.

These kinds of filters do create a bit of current, especially if you have got a large tank. They can handle tanks up to 100 gallons, and if you had a larger tank than that (lucky you) you could just add a second filter. These kinds of filters have to be cleaned about every week to two weeks by squeezing out the sponges until all the trapped particles are released. Sometimes small fish get caught or pulled up by the intake tube, but this only happens with very, very small fish. That said, do not use these kinds of filters in a fry tank. Otherwise, they do a pretty good job and are a very good filter for the money. They run about $20 for a 20-gallon tank. "Trickle" filters are similar technology.

Canister filters

These are the "big dogs" of the filter world. Unless you have a community tank that is over 50 gallons, using a canister filter is a bit like swatting a fly with a cannonball. The benefit to canister filters is that they do a very, very good job and you do not have to clean them more than once a month if that.

Some people "cheat" and buy canister filters made for tanks two or three or even four times the size of their aquarium and then (sometimes) they can get away with cleaning the filter less than once a year. If you have lots of extra money, but very little extra time, this is a viable trick for those of us who hate cleaning the fish tank (you still have to do water changes, though). The downside is that cleaning canister filters is a big deal and they are quite expensive ($75 to $300).

Pamella Neely writes about betta fish care and betta fish tanks. Article Directory: EzineArticles

---

---

Defining BACTERIAL AUGMENTATION and Competitive Exclusion For the Novice Aquarist

The novice aquarist must face a variety of problems when a new tank is started. Beginning aquarium woes often commence with the lack of understanding exactly what is going to happen in the first six weeks the tank is active. Without knowing what processes are occurring invisibly in the aquarium, too many beginners overload the aquarium with fish right away and sentence their new pets to death by their own excretions. The fish actually create the majority of the poisons that kill them! 

Often the rest of the deadly compounds comes from excessive feeding that rots and promotes decay. In the new aquarium, Ammonia is produced by the fish and decay processes. It can rapidly build to toxic levels. If the pH is acid (below 7.0) the toxicity of ammonia is often minimal, even in what could be considered high concentrations. However, it rapidly becomes extremely deadly when the pH reading rises over 7.0. The higher the pH, the more dangerous ammonia becomes, even in smaller concentrations.

Nitrogen Cycle in aquariums. Legend: (1) Addition of food and nutrients, (2) Production of Urea and Ammonia by Fish, (3) Ammonia is converted to Nitrites by beneficial Nitrosomonas bacteria, (4) Nitrites are converted to Nitrates by beneficial Nitrospira bacteria. Less toxic Nitrates are removed by plants and periodic water changes. (5) Evaporation. (6) Light, (7) Soil, (8) O 2 produced by plants, (9) CO 2 produced by Fish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

As time goes by, even starting from a sterile environment, beneficial bacteria that specialize in using the ammonia as an energy source establish a foothold. With enough time, adequate populations develop that can reduce the ammonia as quickly as it is produced. They produce nitrite as a by-product. Nitrite has no relationship with pH or any other water characteristic. As nitrite rises in concentration, it is equally deadly for fish in any water conditions. Once again, nature has provided a bacterial strain that will rapidly eliminate nitrite, nitrobacter. The specialized bacterial strains use nitrite for energy and create nitrate as the final step.

Nitrate is a good plant fertilizer, but otherwise is not removed by standard processes in the aquarium. It constantly builds to levels that eventually become harmful to fish. There really is no reliable way to remove it other than by dilution. The standard water change is the most effective method to remove high levels of nitrate with the waste water. Fresh tap replacement water replacement normally has low or non-existent amounts. As new water is added to replace siphoned used aquarium water, the overall levels of nitrate are lowered and controlled by this simple method.

The entire system heavily depends on a strong and vibrant population of two separate bacterial strains (nitrosomonas and nitrobacter) doing their job. In addition there are a multitude of other bacteria that are constantly at work breaking down waste materials into component parts this is the natural decay process. A big part of this waste removal is the production of ammonia. In the very beginning, there are no bacteria of any kind to start with, they have been killed by the chemicals water companies put into the water supply to make it safe for human consumption. Assorted bacteria strains do start to populate quite quickly, but as far as the invisible bacterial world is concerned, ammonia and nitrite reducers are quite slow to replicate. There are many other types that are much faster to exploit a suitable niche and can inhibit nitrosomonas and/or nitrobacter from thriving.

It takes ten days in a perfect environment for a single starting bacteria that reduces ammonia to populate the billions upon billions of its fellows required to eliminate ammonia as soon as it occurs. The bacteria that reduces nitrite to nitrate is even slower to replicate. It has the further disadvantage of being inhibited when there is too much ammonia present. Once the ammonia removing bacteria are plentiful enough to eliminate ammonia immediately, then these weaker strains will begin to grow, taking another three weeks to get to high enough densities to remove nitrite immediately as well.

Biological Augmentation of the bacterial filter

The above is a very brief synopsis of the Nitrogen Cycle, it is meant neither to be complete or exhaustive, but the timing of the bacterial population crests are important. It is this long lag behind many other types of bacteria all fighting for the same space and elements that gave rise to the concept of bacterial augmentation of the biological filter. Although there are disagreements of which particular strain of bacteria that actually do the work removing ammonia, classically it has been defined as nitrosomonas, and few would argue that these are the bacteria that can do the work. In the past few decades, certified pure strains of both nitrosomonas and nitrobacter have been isolated and cultured quite successfully. Even before this advance, it was long felt that if you added these bacteria to the aquarium directly, they would help reduce the length it takes to get the populations up to size as well as keep the actual concentration levels much lower.

In the very early days, this was done by simply grabbing a handful of gravel from an old, established aquarium and adding it directly into the new aquarium. Since both of these previously mentioned beneficial bacteria are lithotrophic and attach firmly to clean hard surfaces, this did work to inoculate a beginning aquarium with the bacteria living in the old tank, whatever the strains. There was always the risk that the older tank had other, less desirable strains that tagged along as well. Many tanks introduced a disease into it along with the beneficial bacteria.

Then came the first bacterial suspensions that contained living bacteria, in the early 1980's. These were actual living and breathing bacteria, bottled active and alive and sold with very short expiration dates. The concept was to provide a concentration of specifically cultured bacteria that do a particular job and supercharge a new system with them. The spikes of ammonia and nitrite were felt to be reduced and the fish had a better chance of surviving the break-in ordeal. The main drawback of this first product was that it went out of date so fast. You had to get it right off the truck and use it immediately, as every hour saw the loss of some more of the bacteria.

Soon a newer product arrived that was able to deliver much higher concentrations of both bacteria, coupled with some of the best waste reduction bacteria in the same bottle. The shelf life, from culture vat to consumer was extended because it exploited the newest technology, which allowed pure cultures of nitrosomonas and nitrobacter along with a few powerful waste reduction strains to be cultured into extremely high concentrations and then shut down and forced to hibernate until the bottle was opened. The advancement of causing the dormancy of the bacteria was thought to be impossible, and although many seem to believe it still can't be done, the success of the product for over 20 years on the market proves it to be viable.

When the technology advanced to the point where billions of bacteria spores and hibernating cells were concentrated into every ounce, the concept of competitive exclusion also became a reality. Unlike throwing a handful of gravel into a new tank and hoping the right bacteria strains make it, the ability to culture a pure strain of bacteria, mix it with other pure strains to form a team allows the knowledge of exactly what is being put into the aquarium. By dosing in recommended amounts every week, the balance of population is shifted in favor of the strains being added. Over time, they become the dominant bacterial strains, which is fine, because if other pathogenic species appear, they are crowded out by the more dominant types. This is the definition of competitive exclusion, inoculating the aquarium with the beneficial bacteria and crowding out potential pathogens.

Many companies have provided products like this to the market, have a friendly chat with your local life fish store about which one of these preparations they recommend. By regularly dosing the filter and aquarium with billions of bacteria every week, the tank stays in better health and actually seems to run with less chance of bacterial disease. Fungus is also reduced as the amount of waste is more rapidly decayed to composite parts before a problem can occur.

Steve Pond Having kept and bred many different types of tropical fish for the past forty years, I am dedicated to providing information required for the novice aquarist to become successful in this fascinating hobby. Keep tropical fish alive and thriving in your first aquarium through the critical first six week and beyond. Visit my blog website (http://www.noviceaquarist.com/blog) for more detailed information specifically tailored for the novice aquarist on all aspects of the beginning aquarium. Besides my own personal contributions, a variety of other sources are polled and added regularly to the content warehouse available there. Article Directory: EzineArticles

---

---

EHEIM FILTERS For the Home Aquarium

As a pioneer for modern aquarium technology Eheim has been making top of the line aquarium fitlers for decades. With products ranging from external canister filters to heaters and light systems Eheim sets the standard and you can be sure that quality comes with every purchase.

Gunther Eheim was founded in 1945 and gained its fame from the producer of technical aquarium products. Even in its startup days Eheim has been producing products that had never been seen or used in the aquarium market.

Eheim was one of the first to produce Jager, the first adjustable aquarium heater. With easy to use temperature controls their heaters stand among the highest quality heaters on the market and every asset was used to create something that would last for years in the harsh aquarium environment. With heaters from 50 to 250 watts temperature control is easy with this high quality heaters.

Canister filters are where Eheim really sets the standard. From hang on the back to external processor controlled filters these quality German made filters stand out from the pack. Below I will examine some of the features and styles available.

The Liberty Series: There are 3 models to choose from in this category and offers a convenient hang on filter technology for aquariums up to 200 Liters. All models are fully equipped for immediate easy to setup installations.

Technical specs:

· Liberty Filters are simply hung on the back portion of the aquarium and require no external operation.

· Liberty Filters have adjustable priming pipes for many different aquarium sizes and also used to adjust the flow input/output.

· The pump output is adjust via the red output control button for ease of use and operation.

Eheim Aquaball internal filtration.

· The ball is the main feature of this filter hence the name. The round pump head sits on a ball joint for maximum flexibility of water flow. This enables adjustment of the outflow.

· Cleaning is simple as you simple remove the filter from the water column to replace media or regular maintenance. This prevents messy plumbing and external filtration.

· Different medias can be used for all situations from carbon, foam pads or substrat pro.

Eheim Professional 3 Electronic Filters - Top of the line external filtration for up to 700 Liters

· Output control to allow for increase or decrease of water flow through the canister makes controlled input and output a breeze.

· Constant flow allows for soiling of the filter and is recognized by the internal processor which automatically controls the level you have set. This guarantees long service life for the internal filters.

· 12 hour Bio function: This allows the user to set 2 adjustable flow rates on a 12 hour cycle.

· Service Indicator: No more guessing games, if your filter needs service it will tell you! Time until cleaning is viewable with the push of a button

· Auto Air Out: Accumulation of air under filter heads is automatically detected and bled our by the electronic programming.

· Electronic error management: Permanent error monitoring detects any irregularities and are indicated by the display. At the same time the system will try to rectify the cause.

As you can see if you are in the market for filtration don't look any further, Eheim produces some of the easiest and most high tech aquarium filters around.

Article Directory: EzineArticles

---

---

---

How Does An Activated Charcoal WATER FILTRATION Purifier Work?

The system of water filtration using PVC pipe. The ingredients inside the pipe are consist of pebble, palm fiber, alum, activated carbon, gravel, chlorine, smooth sand, palm fiber, and gravel (from bottom to top). Each ingredient is separated with sponge filtration and gauze to keep it at fixed place. 

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The use of an activated charcoal water filtration purifier as part of your filter system is an effective way to clear unwanted material from your water prior to using it to drink, cook, or bathe. Highly absorbent activated charcoal is a commonly used material for removing impurities from water. Because of its effectiveness and relative simplicity of function, any system you purchase should include charcoal/carbon filtration as one of its processes of water purification.

Activated carbon can be found in everything from aquarium filtration systems to pitcher-style drinking water filters to larger home systems. However, the best quality systems will employ a multi-stage filtration process, with an activated charcoal water filtration purifier as the first step of the treatment.

The process works by absorbing certain contaminants in water. Activated charcoal is simply carbon that has been chemically infused with oxygen to create pores that absorb contaminants, and it has been found to be highly effective in removing foreign chemicals and microorganisms from water. A water filter that uses the process of reverse osmosis will not be as effective in removing synthetic chemicals, like the ones that originate in herbicides and pesticides, as activated carbon water filtration systems are.

These systems are especially good at filtering other organic impurities including carbon-based chemicals and chlorine, which is often added to water to kill biological contaminants. In fact, the technology is so good, that the U.S. EPA has recognized activated carbon as the best way to remove contaminants from water. Of course, technology will continue to bring us updated means for purifying our water, but the systems that employ this method are considered highly effective in removing a wide range of unwanted substances from water.

Water filters using activated carbon or any other technology should be installed on all faucets that are used in your home for drinking or bathing in water. Some people's homes offer filtered water in the kitchen only, but occupants of the home often use bathroom sinks for drinking water, so this water should be filtered as well.

Although few of us drink our shower water, we are exposed to contaminants through the absorption of the water into our skin and through our breathing of water vapor that can contain chemicals harmful for us to inhale. For this reason, you should plan to install an activated charcoal water filtration purifier on every shower head in your home.

Activated carbon water filtration systems are effective, but their filters do not last forever. Once the pores of activated charcoal are full of the contaminants they've absorbed, the filters should be replaced. Prices on new filters and frequency of needed replacements vary. Information on the packaging of your water filter or on the manufacturer's website will tell you how often you should plan to replace the filter in your system.

Martin Spencer is a health researcher who has been studying water filtration for over 25 years.  He is a regular contributor to http://water-filtration-guide.com, a site dedicated to various methods of treating and purifying water.  Learn about activated carbon water filtration systems on our site. Article Directory: EzineArticles

---

---