Showing posts with label Cichlids. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cichlids. Show all posts


The Beautiful KRIBENSIS

Kribensis, female
Kribensis, female (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The Kribensis is a very colorful and beautiful fish with both male and females offering brilliant colors. Even though they are both colorful, you can tell the differences. Females are shorter, have reddish/purplish larger stomachs, and rounded dorsal fins.

These fish are also very popular as they are very easy to take off even for younger children. The fish were home at Ethiop River, Niger Delta where the water offers low-lying blackwater streams, which is acidic and more alkaline and has harder water than other streams that join the river.

Your Kribensis love caves or other small hiding areas where they will feel a bit more at home even if your fish were never actually there but only ancestors. Adding real and artificial plants to the aquarium would be a nice enhancement but the plants will need to be buried very well as this type of fish does not like to burrow and will uproot the plants if possible. 

The fish are trying to destroy their home; it is just instinct to burrow. Not only will your fish want a few places to hide, they also need room to swim. The aquarium should give them plenty of room to swim and hide. In a smaller environment, kribensis have been known to become aggressive as there are territorial. As long as you have given them adequate, room to swim you will enjoy watching these fast swimming fish to stop quickly and turn directions. The best size aquarium for these fish is a 20 gallon.

If you wish to introduce other fish to your kribensis, bottom dwellers and slow-moving fish are not the best. Even though these fish are not necessarily aggressive, they tend to nip at the fins of slow fish like the Angelfish. As well as the bottom-dwelling fish, these fish will feel threatened as if their territory is being taken away by the new fish, so other fish that enjoy hiding in caves are also a no-no.
Your fish should be fed no more than can be eaten in five minutes. They enjoy all kinds of fish food including flakes, lives, granular, or frozen.

If you have any questions regarding the Kribensis, you should talk with an assistant at the fish store. They will be able to provide you with all the answers you need to keep healthy and happy fish, as well as give you information on other fish that can live in the same tank without problems.


Tips on KRIBENSIS Care and Spawning

Kribensis, male
Kribensis, male (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Kribensis or Pelvicachromis pulcher is of the family Cichlidae more commonly referred to as cichlids. They are native to the waters of West Africa, primarily found in Nigeria. They can be found in anywhere from free-flowing to brackish water. Kribensis are also referred to as dwarf African cichlids, purple cichlids, and kribs an abbreviation of their species name. Cichlids are among the most numerous and varied species on Earth. Over 1,300 species have thus far been identified and classified.

Kribs are very popular among freshwater aquarists because of their almost saltwater quality coloration.

Unlike most African cichlids, kribs have a temperament conducive to community living. They will adapt better to a community tank if given plenty of plants, rocks and hollow aquarium decorations to hide in.

Kribs thrive in soft to medium hard water with a pH level between 6.5-7.0 and a temperature range of 75-82°. They are a medium sized fish reaching three to four inches in length as adults and have an average lifespan of five years.

Kribensis are omnivores. They eat worms, insects, small crustaceans and plants in their natural habitat. In captivity, they are just fine on common variety tropical fish flakes.

Distinguishing males from females is easy. The males are larger than the females. Unlike most tropical fish, it is the female who has the more vibrant color palette.

Breeding Kribensis
Feeding them a diet high in protein such as brine shrimp, tubifex or bloodworms will help induce the spawning cycle. Privacy is essential to spawning. Kribs will seek out caves or hollow aquarium decor to spawn in.

The eggs will be deposited on the roof of their mating chamber. Spawning is complete when the male leave the spawning chamber. Sometimes males will become aggressive toward the female after spawning takes place. If this happens the male should be removed from the tank. If it does not he may be left with the female.

The female will stay in the chamber until the eggs hatch. This will occur in 36-48 hours. It is not uncommon for both adults to guard over the eggs until they hatch.

In 3-4 days the fry will be free swimming. Both parents will demonstrate parental instincts toward their newly hatched offspring. They will herd the brood around the tank keeping a watchful eye on them. There are rare occasions when adult kribs have been reported to eat the fry once they are free swimming. This is not common. You can play it safe by removing the adults if you choose.

A report issued by Barlow in the year 2000 stated that fry raised in an acidic environment will be mostly male. A neutral or slightly alkaline content will result in a heavier female population. I found this information one of the more interesting facts I came across while researching this cichlid.

Free swimming fry can be fed liquid fry food available at most fish stores. A suitable alternative to store bought food is powdered eggs. Add it sparingly to avoid fouling the water. Fry are small. They don't eat much.

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    Article Source: EzineArticles



Cyphotilapia_frontosa (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The Frontosa Cichlid originates from Lake Tanganyika in East Africa. This pet is easily identified by its cranial hump, which begins to develop as adults or when they reach a length of approximately 4 inches. These fish are usually found at depths of 100 feet or deeper in the wild. Even though the males will grow from 14 - 16 inches and the females will grow from 9 - 12 inches as adults, in Lake Tanganyika they will sometimes fall prey to larger fish, but in an aquarium, anything under 3 inches in length will often time become a snack for these generally mild predators.

Frontosas are meat eaters in the wild, mostly consuming snails and other mollusks. In an aquarium, however, their diet must be protein rich in the form of krill, adult brine shrimp, most any type of worm, and silversides.

The Frontosa is a mouthbrooder, meaning the female will carry fertilized eggs in her mouth for approximately 21 days, at which time the fry are released into the water to fend for themselves. The female will allow them back into her mouth a couple of times if she fears harm to the young ones, but will only allow them to seek cover once or twice. The female will eat hardly anything during this time period, and placing her in a separate tank will help keep her stress levels down.

The Frontosa Cichlid makes a very nice pet. It is basically nonaggressive, however, it will defend an established territory. 8 - 12 pets in at least a 200-gallon aquarium is recommended, with a sandy bottom and lots of caves. They will generally leave plants alone too. These guys will often live up to 25 years, making them a beautiful, long-term pet!

Keeping them to the age of 25 requires stable temperatures between 72 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit, lots of oxygen - keep bubblers going day and night, avoid overfeeding and overstocking, 10 - 20% water changes weekly, and a constant checking of nitrate levels. Keep them happy and you'll have a nice group of pets for a long time.

The Frontosa Cichlid is an amazing pet. It is one of the few nonaggressive African Cichlids. You will be surprised at what you can mix with these guys and how your aquarium can glow with the beautiful colors from these delightful fish.


BLUE RAM - My First South American Cichlid

Ram cichlid, Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
Ram cichlid, Mikrogeophagus ramirezi (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Blue Ram, Gold Ram, which is which?  This little dwarf South American Cichlid has had its name changed so many times it has every right to be confused. But whatever you call it, the Blue Ram, or the Gold Ram (originally I knew it as Apistogramma ramirezi) is one of the most intriguing fish you can keep in a passive aquarium community.  The fish has been also been called Microgeophagus (little dirt eater) and is listed in my copy of the Baensch Aquarium Atlas as Papilliochromis ramirezi.

Doesn't matter what they call it, at least scientifically, I like these fish.  They have a very gentle personality and are extremely passive, keeping pretty much to themselves when they are added to a community aquarium. In fact, this is often a problem, they are so easily intimidated by more active swimming fish that they may never become as colourful as they can be.  Even if other fish are not even trying to bother them, swift movements and rapid fish can simply be too much and the fish will waste away. For this reason, I most often will simply give the group a tank of their own and let the interactions in their own community offer the action in the tank.  In a species tank like this, I often see much more interaction between the individuals. It may only be my opinion, but the social characteristics of these fish as a group is well worth devoting a small tank just to them.

In my experience they can be quite delicate and prefer softer acid water, some of the books do note they will tolerate up to neutral (7.0 pH) water, but I feel that is a maximum limit, lower pH down to 6.5 are much more preferable.  Above all, they simply do not tolerate environmental changes well. Be very careful when adding any type of chemical, if you must treat the water for softness and acidity, try to do it naturally, possibly with peat rather than chemical treatments that can cause the conditions to rapidly fluctuate. It is much better to allow the change to be very gradual, rather than all of a sudden. and always ensure the water you are replacing during regular aquarium maintenance protocols has been properly treated outside the aquarium to eliminate chlorine and other toxins well before coming in contact with the aquarium.

If you give do give them the conditions they require and let them settle in and get comfortable, you will watch one of the true jewels of the freshwater tropical fish species as it goes about its business. Too much action by other species in the tank and it the entire group will become timid and easily spooked, but in the right conditions, it is truly a spectacular addition to the small community aquarium.  I have found the blue and gold rams can be mixed pretty easily and that they prefer to be in groups rather than simple pairs.  The interaction of the group is quite social, so having at least five or six in the tank gives them chance to interact with interesting results.

Most of the tanks that I have kept Rams of assorted types have been pretty bare of plants, but with lots of rocks and ornaments that allow them to hide and claim as territory. They have survived and flourished in a rocky environment, and even bred repeatedly on a flat rock or on a grave impression they have dug.  One of their many names was Microgeophagus - or little dirt eater.  My observations show this is a good description for them. They will dig and move the gravel and can create hollows in the bottom, some have even spawned there.  I would suggest using relatively small fine gravel for the bottom of a ram tank since they will be moving it around anyway, and large gravel will make the effort great.

I was not a fan of keeping live plants when I kept and bred these originally.  The fact that they move the gravel means that any plants you keep for them must be well anchored.  They do enjoy a planted tank with densely bunched plants that offer places to hide and disappear within, but like my previous environments, they do need plenty of open bottom swimming area as well.  In essence, the plants provide the same type of protection that a properly rocked aquarium will for them.  Either way, when planting or rocking the aquarium, concentrate near the back and ensure there is a plenty of swimming space is probably the best way to set the aquarium.  Other fish can be included in the habitat, but keep them to lazy swimming fish in the upper regions so there is little interaction between the rams and the other species.

The Gold Ram was the first Cichlid I tried my hand at keeping and breeding.  When I first saw them introduced a few decades ago to my area, I knew I wanted to see what they were about.  Once I looked into them, the general Cichlid species characteristics intrigued me, having had my fill of fish that evidence no parental behaviour, either giving birth and abandoning them as they drop or simply scattering eggs and ignoring them afterwards.  it was a refreshing change of pace to finally encounter fish that actually cared for their eggs until they hatch, protecting the clutch and the area from unwanted intruders. This is the time when rams become their most aggressive.

Sure there are a lot of other Dwarf Cichlids, and many of them are just as stunning, but I have yet to see any fish with the depth and brilliance of colour as a well-conditioned Blue Ram in full breeding colours showing off for a receptive female.  These dwarfs do not have as pronounced roles for the parental care as many of their larger cousins display. The roles blur and both do what is required without as clear-cut responsibilities.  They can be a problem to keep happy, but when they do breed and the eggs have been laid, it is best to remove other occupants and let the eggs hatch.  Once the babies are fully free swimming, they can be removed to a grow out tank.


Tips on BLOOD PARROT CICHLID Care and Breeding

English: A Picture of my large Blood Parrot It...
A Picture of my large Blood Parrot
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The blood parrot cichlid should not be confused with the parrot cichlid (Hoplarchus Psittacus). Blood parrot cichlids have no binomial nomenclature (scientific designation) to identify them by. Nor do they have a natural habitat. Why you may ask? Blood parrots are a man-made hybrid. They are, in fact, one of the only two fish species found within the Exotic-Aquariums Fish Care and Breeding Guide entirely of man-made origins. Although their parental lineage was never documented and remains shrouded in mystery, the blood parrot was first created in Taiwan around 1986.

Prevalent speculation points to the following cichlid species as the potential candidates of parental origins; the redhead cichlid (Cichlasoma synspilum) and the Midas cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus) or a coupling between the red devil cichlid (Amphilophus labiatus) and the severum (Heros Severus). Despite the fact that all of the aforementioned species are native to either Central or South America, the blood parrot is considered an Asian cichlid because of the geographical location of its hybridization.

Regardless of the point of origin or parental ancestry, blood parrot cichlids have stirred up almost as much controversy as their man-made counterparts, the glofish. Unlike the glofish, blood parrots are a product of selective breeding rather than genetic manipulation. As such they have not banned for sale in most countries as a genetically engineered species. The subject of the controversy revolves around the anatomical deformities inherent in the hybridization of this previously nonexistent subspecies.

Perhaps the most physically detrimental deformity relates to the hybrid's narrow, beak-like mouth. Its vertical mouth opening makes it hard for the fish to feed and leaves it vulnerable to possible starvation. Blood parrots compensate for this deformity by using their throat muscles to finish pulverizing their food. Additional deformities include malformed swim bladders which result in erratic swimming patterns, unnaturally large often misshapen irises and deformed spinal columns that contribute to the fish's unique shape. To add further fuel to the controversy, many breeders inject the fish with colored dyes to increase the intensity and diversity of its color palette and enhance its overall marketability marketing them under the trade name Bubblegum Parrot.

This same practice was also used to transform Indian glassfish into the once very popular Disco fish. The dying of fish for commercial resale is detrimental to the fish's health and frequently shortens their life expectancy. Practical Fishkeeping has been instrumental in exposing these practices to the general public. As a result of many fish stores and online retailers no longer stock the modified variations of these fish.

Although blood parrots were a product of the 80s they were not widely available in pet shops until 2000. Many avid fish enthusiasts were opposed to the sale of these creatures on ethical grounds due to the inherent deformities resulting from their creation. Fish stores who stocked these hybrids were even boycotted. Said boycotts only met with limited success. Some store owners simply cannot afford not to carry this inventory because of the high price tag they fetch. Ethical principles and genetic deformities aside, blood parrots frequently live for 10 years and have been reported to live as long as 15 years of age.

If you are not ethically opposed to owning a blood parrot then you should be aware that this is one of the larger cichlids. Blood parrots commonly grow 8-10 inches in length. A single fish will require a minimum aquarium size of 50 gallons. When kept as a community fish, you will need a substantially larger tank. Care should be exercised when choosing their tank mates. Blood parrots should not be housed with large aggressive fish. They should not be forced to compete for food or turf in a community setting. Angelfish, catfish, danios and larger variety tetras make suitable tank mates.

Blood parrots should be provided with ample room and adequate hiding places so that they can establish their own territorial boundaries. Driftwood, rock work and larger aquarium décor are excellent options. Like many cichlids, these fish are prone to dig up gravel. Choosing a smaller, less course substrate is recommended. These fish tend to function best under subdued lighting. This is attributed to iris irregularities inherent in their breeding.

South American cichlids prefer soft water environments with a ph balance around 6.8. Water temperature should be maintained between 78-86 °F. Lower temperature ranges could result in a loss of coloration.

The blood parrot is an omnivorous cichlid. They will readily accept a wide variety of foods. They are more adept at consuming sinking rather than floating food offerings. Standard food fare can be supplemented with bloodworms and brine shrimp. Commercial products high in b-carotene and canthaxanthin will help enhance and maintain their coloration. These fish are voracious eaters. They are known for generating a large amount of uneaten food debris in a short period of time. A good filtration system combined with frequent water changes and substrate maintenance is a must to keep nitrate levels in check.

Breeding Blood Parrot Cichlids

Although Parrots have been known to mate and even lay eggs, generally they are infertile. Male blood parrots are typically infertile. There have been sporadic cases of successful spawnings, generally when they have been crossed with a non-hybrid fish. The use of a non-hybridized male will increase your rate of success. In commercial breeding, males are injected with hormones to increase fertility rates. Like other cichlids, Blood Parrots will tend the eggs and resulting fry fastidiously. As with any eggs, those that are infertile will turn white and rapidly fungus. The parents will eat infertile eggs to prevent them from spreading the fungus to the fertile eggs.

Once the eggs hatch, daily water changes of 25% are critical to ensuring the health of the fry. Fresh baby brine shrimp are the optimum food during the first couple of weeks. Often pet shops will carry frozen baby brine shrimp, which can also be used. As they fry grow, they can be weaned to finely crushed flake food.

    By Stephen J Broy
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    Article Source: EzineArticles



Midascichlid shedd.jpg
Photo: Omnitarian. Licensed under Wikimedia Commons.
A native of the lakes in Costa Rica and Nicaragua the Midas cichlid or Amphilophus Citrinellus is a popular fish of many pet shops and fish owners. It is a large fish that can grow to fourteen inches in length. It is quite beautiful and comes in an array of colors. They are normally yellow, red and white or an assortment of these colors. The Midas cichlid can easily be identified by the nuchal hump which is a feature of the adult male. The female version is not quite as distinguishable. The males have larger fins as well.

This fish likes lots of water. It should be placed in a large tank alone or in pairs. One Midas would be happy in a tank of 75 gallons of water. That should be the minimum amount. If the fish keeper still insists on placing it with other fish the best option would be to put fish of the same size. Any fish that looks to be inferior will surely end up in the stomach. The tank should have lots of rocks and wood. Ceramic pieces and slate will make it very comfortable. Since this is a fish that loves to dig it is not a good idea to place many plants in the tank unless they are plants that will prove difficult for the fish to move. Even if they can't move the plant around they will shred it to pieces.

The Midas Cichlid is omnivorous so it should be fed on protein as well as nonprotein foods. Worms, brine shrimp, processed fish food should be used to feed this fish. Vegetables and plants should also be added to the diet. They should be fed two or three times per day.

This fish has an intense breeding season. The male and female will play with each other for weeks and even months. They rub against each other until the time comes for the female to lay the eggs. The couple works together by digging towards the bottom of the tank where the female will lay the eggs. After laying them in rows the male will fertilize each of them. The male becomes very possessive and may attack the female during this period. To ensure her safety the fish keeper should put dividers in the tank. The male will stay with the eggs until the fry is able to go on their own. Both parents have a habit of eating any eggs that are not hatched.

If given proper treatment the Midas cichlid can live for up to fifteen years. The water should be cleaned regularly and have the correct temperature. They produce a lot of waste so the water should be tested regularly for any contaminants and chemical imbalances that would cause them stress. The recommended temperature is between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are prone to Hole-in-the-head disease.

The Midas cichlid is a very interesting fish. They have flourished in captivity. Scientists have been using them to help in the conduct of behavioral research.


What You Should Know About CONVICT CICHLID Fish Care

Photo  by Marcel Sigg 
All people that are growing cichlids know that we are in front of an exciting hobby. It is perfect for beginners, especially if they want to raise convict cichlid fish. This is because it is quite easy to take care of them. You are not to have to deal with a lot of problems when breeding them. The zebra cichlid the common name stands out as highly attractive and this does bring in a lot of people wanting to raise them.

Convict cichlid fish are capable of adapting to different water conditions. An aquarium for them needs to include some rocks, artificial caves intended for breeding and some flat stones. Plants are not really needed because they are to be destroyed by this fish. In the event that you do want to add plants for design, you should use plants that are hardier like Amazonian sword plants or java fern.

These fish will accept quite a wide range of PH and temperature. One thing that is really important is that all has to be kept stable and no quick changes have to be made. The water PH level should be around 7 while the temperature is perfect if kept around twenty-five degrees Celsius. Convict cichlid fish stand out as an omnivore and are capable of eating almost anything that you buy. Aquarium plants can also be taken into their diet.

One really important fact is that a convict cichlid fish is really aggressive when placed in the same tank with other fish. When mating season appears this becomes highly true. We do recommend that you keep them in a separate tank when breeding season comes. All convict cichlids will be easy to breed. The parents are always guarding fry and eggs and are really protective parents.

The bottom line is that it will be easy to raise a convict cichlid fish. In the event that one beginner is looking for one fish that can be raised easily and looks very well there will be no real problems.



Photo:  Wikimedia Commons.
Have you ever walked in a shop and wondered why an awkwardly looking fish is staring at you? You might question the aesthetic appreciation of the owner for keeping what seems to be an ugly fish. If you would ask the owner or the keeper of the store, they would tell you that the fish is the bearer of good luck. The strange looking fish is the flowerhorn cichlid. The FLOWERHORN CICHLID has been famous among business owners. Due to their association with bringing great fortune, the Flowerhorn sale has been proliferating mostly in the Asian countries.

The rampant crossbreeding of South American cichlids resulted to the flowerhorn cichlid. The new species of cichlid was developed in the mid 90's in Malaysia. The combination of the species used is still unknown except for those who made them. Both the male and female flowerhorn has the same appearance. One must be very keen to differentiate between the sexes. When the fish is approximately 10-12 centimeters, one can differentiate the male from the female flowerhorn by checking the anal pore. A U shaped anal pore signifies a female flowerhorn, while a V-shaped anal pore is for the male flowerhorn.

The flowerhorn sale is not greatly affected by the sex of the fish. The markings and the huge hump on the head appear both in the male and female flowerhorn. The black markings resemble the Chines characters at times. A fish with a pronounced marking will be considered very special. The hump on the head of the fish is believed to resemble the high- forehead of SHou Xing the Chinese God of Longevity.

The flowerhorn fish is easy to maintain. One must have an aquarium that would have an ample space for the fish to swim in. One to three flowerhorn fish can be kept in a spacious aquarium. If more than one fish is to be kept, however, there should be enough accessories or items that would make the territories of the fish separate and distinct. Small variations in the condition of the water would not bother the resilient fish much. A neutral or alkaline water is best in keeping the fish. Water with a lower pH would fade the color of the fish.

The flowerhorn cichlid is kept because people believe it is lucky or just merely because of its interesting appearance. No matter what the reasons are, flowerhorn cichlids are one of the favorites of an aquarist.

    Quintus Macon is a freelance writer and a budding aquarist who owns a female flowerhorn.
    Article Directory: EzineArticles


Introduction to PARROT CICHLIDS

English: Bloody Parrot, also called the Red Pa...
Bloody Parrot, also called the Red Parrot
(Photo credit: 
Typically speaking there are two kinds of cichlids that belong to the parrot cichlid family, the Hoplarchus Psittacus (Green Parrot) and the Blood Parrot. The Green Parrot Cichlid is known to be the "original" parrot. It is a beautiful green cichlid that originates from the Amazon in South America. Not surprisingly its name came from its big parrot-like mouth. It is known to be less common within the aquarium industry but over the past few years, it is slowly becoming more popular.

The Blood Parrot is noticeably more common in aquarium shops. Interestingly, the Blood Parrot is a fish that has been developed over a few years of selective breeding and when it first came on the scene it was a bright Orange. Nowadays this fish is known to be found in many different colors such as Red, Purple, Blue, Yellow, and Green just to name a few. Given the mass range of selective breeding and colors that have now been produced, there has been a blanket name placed over these multi-colored fish, this is known as the Jellybean Cichlid.

Because the Blood Parrot Cichlid is a man-made hybrid so to speak, knowing the exact origins of this fish become difficult however there is speculation that it might be a cross between the Severum and a Midas Cichlid or Red Devil.

An interesting fact is that it does not have a scientific name due to its hybrid origins, it should also be noted that it will never be given one because of this reason.

Water parameters for this fish are somewhat the same as the original Green Parrot, neutral pH and a temperature of around 26°C or 78°F. Parrot Cichlids have been known to grow to 12 inches in length or more in some rare occasions and can be expected to live for up to 10 years.

Some good Tank Mates for the Parrot Cichlid are as follows;

* Geophagus cichlids,
* Rainbow cichlids,
* Firemouths,
* Severums
* Some Tetra species (make sure they are not fin nippers)

Blood Parrots generally attempt to breed when the water parameters are suitable, and in some cases have been known to attempt to breed every few weeks or so. Unfortunately, the lack of egg fertilization is a common problem associated with these fish and breeding, although consistent might be very unsuccessful.

However more and more people have reported that they have had successful breeding pairs, perhaps this is all a part of their hybrid origins being bred out of them.

    By Craig Wrightson
    If you would like to learn more about Parrot Cichlids and their environment, visit my site African Cichlid Success - NEW eBOOK! Get Instant Access!

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    Article Source: EzineArticles


Electric Blue Ram Cichlid

Electric Blue Ram (Male) - Photo: Wikimedia
One of the more recent additions to the aquarium trade is the ram, a color morph of the ram cichlid (Mikrogeophagus ramirezi) that was developed in 2009. Rams are still less commonly available than other ram varieties and may be more expensive. Be wary of rams sold at "bargain-basement" prices, as they may have been treated with hormones, a practice that weakens the specimens and reduces their lifespan. Always buy from a trusted, reputable dealer or breeder.

Housing an Electric Blue Ram
The ram is not recommended for beginners, but it is not overly difficult to keep either. One pair can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, while two pairs will require a tank of at least 40 gallons. As always, more water means that it will be easier for you to keep the water quality high and stable, and since the ram is sensitive to organic waste, such as nitrate, it is unwise to skimp on tank size if you manage to get your hands on this uncommon and beautiful fish.

Since the ram is a type of ram cichlid, your safest bet is to provide it with an environment similar to the habitat of its wild ancestors. Give your ram plenty of cover, ideally by including aquatic plants or submerged land vegetation in the setup.

Densely planted areas and surface cover, combined with at least one open area for swimming, would be ideal. In addition to plants, the electric ram should be given a few caves to shelter in. If you intend to breed the electric ram, provide it with several flat stones or breeding slates in the tank to choose among since this fish likes to deposit its eggs on a flat, horizontal surface.

Suitable Tankmates
The electric ram should never be housed with aggressive fish or quick and energetic species that will devour all the food before the ram finds it. A common mistake is to house ram cichlids and electric blue rams with other dwarf cichlids - avoid this at all costs. Keeping electric rams on their own isn't recommended either; they need some peaceful and docile species in the aquarium to feel safe. Go for slow-moving and tranquil species that won't outcompete the rams at mealtimes.

If your electric blue rams start displaying aggressive tendencies toward tankmates, try including more hiding spots m the setup. A scarcity of suitable sheltering spots can lead to aggressive behavior. Also, electric blue rams always get aggressive during the breeding period because they need to keep their youngsters safe.

Keeping Electric Blues
Electric blue rams should not be placed in newly set up aquariums; they need a stable environment with low levels of organic waste. Successful keeping normally includes mechanical and biological filtration as well as regular water changes. Strong water movement will not be appreciated because wild ram cichlids live in slow-flowing waters.

The normal temperature range for wild ram cichlids is 78 to 85F, and the water in which they live is soft and acidic. A pH value in the 5 to 6 range is ideal for electric blue rams, but aquarist-raised specimens normally adapt to anything below pH 7.1. There are even reports of aquarists successfully housing German blue rams in moderately hard water so this might be possible for electric blue rams as well.

Feeding an Electric Blue Ram
The electric blue ram is an omnivore and needs to be kept on a diet of both meaty and green foods. The stress of being moved to a new environment can make the fish lose its appetite, so be prepared to coax it with mosquito larvae or similar foods. Once it's eating enough, you can start introducing other types of food, such as flakes and pellets, as well. 

A well acclimated electric blue ram normally accepts many different types of food. Keep an eye on the fish during feeding time. As I mentioned, electric blue rams are a bit slow moving and may starve if kept with faster-moving species. To find out more, you can check out Electric Blue Ram Cichlid.


KRIBENSIS * Purple Cichlid - Pelvicachromis pulcher (Pelmatochromis Kribensis)

Kribensis * Purple Cichlid - Pelvicachromis pulcher (Pelmatochromis Kribensis)


All About KRIBENSIS Cichlids

Proud family with 23 babies...
Kribensis - Photo   by    sapienssolutions 
The kribensis cichlids are some of the most preferred African cichlids. They are very small in stature. Unlike other cichlids, the kribensis are very peaceful. However, you should note that they become very hostile during breeding time. Nevertheless, they can be kept in a communal fish tank.

The fish species is found in West Africa specifically in Nigeria and Cameroon. Their scientific name is Pelmatochromis kribensis. The name is a reflection of their purplish color. Their habitat should have a lot of plantation and rocks which enable them hide easily. They prefer living in fresh water of around middle pH with a bit of acidity and a mild temperature.

The kribensis cichlids will feed on most aquarium foods. However, some foods with specs of meat will encourage them more in their breeding period. Their color is more pronounced in females rather than males. Therefore, they are easy to distinguish. Also, for the males, they have more color towards the back than the female kribensis cichlids. The tail will tell you this since it has some spots that are a bit dark.

The fish are a bit fun loving and very social. Placing them with other kinds of fish will not pose a danger to the others at all. Although the kribensis cichlids need more swimming areas, you should include rocks and more places to hide. They are burrowers therefore you should be adding more sand in the aquarium.

During the spawning period the female develops brighter colors. The belly in particular is turned to a bright red during this period. During the breeding period, the fish develop a higher degree of aggression.

The fish life span could surprisingly reach 5 to 10 years of age. To sway away predators, the kribensis cichlids have some spiny rays towards the back. Their bodies are structured in such a way that they have a soft and perfect shape. This helps them during swimming helping them move around without much effort.

During feeding, you should feed them on worms and insects. Flakes and pellets offer a good balance to their diet. It is advised that you feed the fish small amounts of food rather than resorting to feed them in a lump sum.

This will encourage them utilize the food and minimize wastage that eventually turns the water in the tank dirty. A funny fact about the kribensis cichlids is that you can keep a male and a female together in one fish tank. The two develop lifelong relations. In the event of death of one of the pairs, it's time to buy a new pair. This is because regardless of how many replacement you make, the compatibility is impossible.

When building their tanks, the tank should be able to accommodate between 80 and 90 liters of water. Since the kribensis cichlids are burrowers, include a larger amount of fine gravel. The substrate should be however free of quartzite substrates since they tend to interfere with larval development and may cause the death of fry.



English: Red Turquise Discus Fish فارسی: ماهی ...
Red Turquise Discus Fish - (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
More and more people take up the fish breeding hobby, which would explain a large number of materials and documentation sources that teach breeding discus for beginners. Whether you choose an online e-book or a guide you buy from the bookshop, breeding discus for beginners may prove more easily said than done sometimes. You need to pay all the attention because if you follow some very strict guidelines, the rest of the breeding discus for beginners is truly piece of cake. Let’s see how you recognize the best materials about discus.

First of all, if you have no knowledge of the living conditions of the discus in the wild,  the material about breeding discus for beginners should help you learn how to recreate the most close-to-natural environment you can. In the same category of breeding discus for beginners falls the understanding of the feeding specificity. Normally you feed the discus frozen bloodworms and shrimp, but you may learn that a bag of moss placed in the water will create a closer imitation of the Amazon, as the normal background of these creatures. Thus, breeding discus for beginners requires lots of detailed information and goodwill on the part of the apprentices.

A great place to learn the secrets of breeding discus for beginners is a site such as discus-fish-secrets revealing you plenty of tips about the tank conditions and the prevention of disease too. Lots of e-books and videos that deal with breeding discus for beginners are advertised online, the good part is that they come up with solutions that are close within reach and not too difficult to understand. Make sure you choose one that looks reader-friendly meaning that you don’t need a huge amount of work to understand the supposedly easy breeding discus for beginner’s techniques.


FLOWERHORN FISH: The Herald of Good Fortune

English: Elvis by ILC
Flowerhorn Elvis (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
In the mid 90's, a new hybrid of the cichlid was created in Malaysia. Various species of South American cichlids were interbred which lead to a hybrid cichlid, the flowerhorn. The flowerhorn fish have a distinctive hump on their head and characteristic black markings on their sides. The black markings on the side of the flowerhorn fish sometimes resemble Chinese characters or numbers are thought to bring luck. 

The hump on the head of the flowerhorn fish is also thought to bring fortune since it somehow resembles the Chinese god of longevity These features appear on both male and female flowerhorns. Unlike other fish hybrids, the male and female flowerhorns are fertile and can be bred easily. This enabled breeders and enthusiasts alike to venture in the flowerhorn sale since there was a demand for it.

Flowerhorn fish is easily maintained. A 200-Liter capacity will be enough to house one flowerhorn fish. They are not sensitive to small degrees of variation in the water condition. However, it is best to have a neutral to an alkaline water so as not to mute the colors of the flowerhorns. When keeping multiple flowerhorn fish in a single aquarium, it is advised that it be limited to up to three only and that there are decorations in the aquarium that would segregate the territories of the different flowerhorns. Likewise, male and female flowerhorns may be kept in the same aquarium, especially when the intention is to breed. When trying to breed, a flat surface should be provided where the female flowerhorn will lay her eggs. Male flowerhorns tend to guard the territory, chasing other fish away, while the female flowerhorns guard the eggs.

Male and female flowerhorns tend to look almost the same when they are small.However, when they reach about 10-12 cm they can be distinguished when the anal pore is checked A female flowerhorn is characterized by a U-shaped anal pore while a V-shaped anal pore is distinctive of the male flowerhorn. Also, mature female flowerhorns have a smaller hump compared to their male counterpart. Despite the slight difference in appearance, the flowerhorn sale for both male and female flowerhorns are at par.

The price of flowerhorns nowadays is not as extravagant as it was in the start Only those flowerhorns with very distinct marks such as those that resemble the Chinese character for luck or those with a well-proportioned hump are valued at the highest price. However, this has not stopped breeders and enthusiasts to stop breeding the hybrid cichlid to enhance the features of the fish. Crossbreeding of flowerhorns are still done today to further enhance the markings and colors of the flowerhorn fish.

There are groups of people, however, who detest the flowerhorn fish. Being developed by man, many groups, religious and environmentalists alike, frown at the creation of the flowerhorn fish. It has been considered an abomination of nature since it would not exist without the tampering of man. There are groups as well that consider the flowerhorns a threat to the ecosystem.

The flowerhorn fish indeed captured the attention of many.With both the grandeur and criticism that it has attained, people will continue to appreciate the flowerhorn fish be it for its beauty or for the associated good fortune that awaits those who keep them.