BASSLETS - A Guide For the Marine Aquarium

Black Cap Basslet (Gramma melacara)
 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Marine basslets are small, meat-eating marine aquarium fish that are very well represented in the hobby. The overwhelming majority of them are somewhere between 2 to four inches in length and appear in a broad assortment of colors. They are all strictly meat-eaters and are typically some of the easiest fish to provide for in the saltwater aquarium. They are located in a variety of depths and are usually connected to habitats that have a lot of caves.

Basslets are found from a selection of families in addition to genera. Some of the more admired basslets in the trade come from the genus Liopropoma, Gramma, and Serranus.

The most popular among them is undoubtedly the Royal Gramma. Not to be mixed up with the bicolor dottyback. Marine basslets from the genus Liopropoma are several of the most sought after marine fishes in the trade and can cost more than $600 for rare deepwater species just like the beautiful candy basslet.

All basslets are considered exceedingly hardy fishes that typically do well in captivity. Owing to their eating habits, small fishes and invertebrates are not safe around them. Crustaceans to avoid are made up of sexy shrimp, small pistol shrimp for example Randall's pistol shrimp as well as any saltwater aquarium fishes that is small enough to put in into their mouths. Even as they can be taught to accept dry foods like pellets or flakes, they have a propensity to accept frozen foods a lot faster. As a result, some of the most popular fish feeds for the basslets consist of staple frozen foods for instance frozen mysis shrimp, krill along with an assortment of seafood mixes such as prime reef.

In their natural habitats, they are caught individually or dwelling in pairs. They are frequently found living in or in the region of live rock that offers them plenty of hiding spaces. Such a rockscape ought to be reflected in captivity if you plan to keep these stunning fish.

For the most part, the majority of the frequent basslets have not been bred in captivity. The staple Royal Gramma sees the most attempts but as a result of its low value, such activities have not garnered much interest from private breeders or large scale breeders. The one genera that are worth looking into is Liopropoma as they are normally deep-dwelling fishes that command high prices.

By Indran Manickam - Article Source: EzineArticles

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REGAL ANGELFISH Care - Pygoplites diacanthus

Pygoplites diacanthus, Pomacanthidae, Royal Angelfish
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Regal Angel is thought of by several hobbyists to be one of the most lovely big angels in the market. Currently, it's also one of the toughest to house in the aquarium.

Its scientific designation given to this beauty is Pygoplites Diacanthus. Currently, it's the lone member of the genus Pygoplites. The regal angelfish has an extensive intense yellow main body including vertical white streaks that are outlined by blue.

Similar to all members of the large angel family, juveniles wear a noticeably unusual coloration pattern than adults. Young specimens do not have blue coloration and are commonly seen bearing yellow along with white with a distinctive spot close to the tail.

They are acknowledged to better a foot in length in the wild. In the aquarium, however, they usually attain a maximum length of roughly twelve inches.

They are generally found all over the Indo-Pacific, Fiji, and various areas in Africa. Fishes collected from the Philippines as well as Indonesia do not fare very well in captivity and normally have an excessive death percentage. This might have something to do with collection methods.

In their natural habitats, these fish are grazers that feed solely on tunicates and sponges. This really is the chief reason why Regal Angelfish typically do badly in captivity. They may be tricky eaters that usually starve to death over a length of time. They must be offered a great mixture of seafood, saltwater seaweed strips and in particular sponges daily if possible.

Always quarantine your fishes to make certain they are disease and parasite free. Sometimes you may well come upon two-inch juveniles for sale at the saltwater store. Resist the urge to purchase them if you do not have a large enough saltwater tank. The regal angelfish is the most beautiful and highly regarded large angelfish by enthusiasts. Alas, their high mortality percentage in captivity does put off a lot of hobbyists.

By Indran Manickam - EzineArticles

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BLUE-FACED ANGELFISH - Pomacantus xanthometopon

Blue-Faced Angelfish - Pomacantus xanthometopon

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Tips on Hippocampus Kuda Or Common SEAHORSE Care

Male seahorses are pouch brooders (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Seahorses are cataloged in the genus Hippocampus. The members of this genus belong to the family Syngnathidae. This family contains over 50 individual species including all seahorses and their close relatives the pipefish. Seahorses are found in shallow waters of tropical and temperate zones around the world.

The name Hippocampus is first recorded in Greek poetry. Hippos mean horse and campus translate to sea monster. Ancient Greeks and Romans believed seahorses were a gift from the sea god Poseidon/Neptune. Despite their fragility, seahorses were perceived to be a symbol of strength and power. There are three species of seahorse found in the Mediterranean Sea. These are the Hippocampus hippocampus or long snout, the Hippocampus brevirostris or short snout, and the Hippocampus fuscus which emigrated from its native habitat in the Red Sea. Many Europeans thought these equine-like creatures bore the souls of recently departed sailors, providing them safe passage to the underworld and protecting over them until their souls meant their destiny. Seahorse fossils have been discovered dating as far back as 13 million years. Here we will focus both the seahorse collectively and one specific species Hippocampus kuda also known as the common seahorse.

The common seahorse is indigenous to the Indo-Pacific. Twenty-three countries have confirmed the presence of H. Kuda ranging as far south as Australia to as far north as China.

Seahorses have been procured by Chinese herbologists for their purported healing qualities for centuries. Native populations throughout Indonesia and the Central Philippines also use seahorses as a component in herbalistic medicines. It is estimated that up to 20 millions seahorses a year are harvested to support this thriving industry. Overfishing has driven seahorse populations to the verge of becoming endangered species. The common seahorse is currently listed as a vulnerable species by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, also known as the Washington Convention). CITES has regulated the import and export of seahorses in this region of the world since 2004. Unfortunately, Indonesia, Japan and South Korea do not recognize the trade rules put in place by the Washington Convention.

Seahorses are a boney fish. They are devoid of scales. They have a thin layer of skin stretched over a series of bony plates arranged in rings. Each individual species has a specific number of these rings. Seahorses have a cornet on their heeds. These cornets are distinctive to each seahorse. No two are identical much like a human fingerprint.

These creatures swim vertically, a trait specific to seahorses. They are poor swimmers who move very slowly in the water. Propulsion is achieved by the rapid flutter of the dorsal fin on their backs. They maneuver with the use of their pectoral fins located behind their eyes. They do not possess a caudal (tail) fin. In its place, there is a prehensile tail which they warp around stationary objects to anchor themselves.

In an aquarium, seahorses must be provided with objects to anchor themselves to. Coral and small branches will suffice nicely. These are timid creatures that should never be housed with even moderately aggressive species. They are easily stressed. Prolonged periods of stress will lower the efficiency of their immune system making them more susceptible to disease. Gobies and other docile mannered fish will make suitable tank mates. Seahorses are primarily bottom dwellers. They will peacefully coexist with ornamental crustaceans and other bottom feeders. This makes them the perfect compliment to a marine reef aquarium.

The amateur aquarist should not attempt to raise seahorses. You will only accomplish the unnecessary death of a rapidly vanishing species. Seahorses are only recommended for the more experienced saltwater aficionado.

All seahorses are carnivorous. They use their snouts to suck in zooplankton as a source of nutrition. Upon initial introduction to a home aquarium, seahorses may only eat live food offerings. Rotifers, mysis and brine shrimp should help persuade them to start feeding. With patience, they can be weaned off of live food. These are slow feeders and must not be made to compete for their food.

In recent decades the captive breeding of seahorses has become increasingly widespread. The common seahorse is among these commercially raised specimens. Farm raised seahorses may already be acclimated to non-living food offerings. These are commonly more expensive than wild caught seahorses. However, you have a specimen that will not have to endure the shock and trauma of being yanked out of its natural habitat and placed in the confines of an aquarium. Farm raised marine species are more disease resistant and have a much higher survivability rate. And you will not be a participant in the further depletion of an already threatened species.

By Stephen J Broy If you find the idea of raising seahorses intriguing, then you should check out the hottest new trend in the saltwater aquarium industry, Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums. Keeping Moon Jellyfish & Pet Jellies is the hottest new trend among saltwater aquarists. Article Source: EzineArticles

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CORAL BEAUTY ANGELFISH - Centropyge bispinosus

Coral Beauty Angelfish - Centropyge bispinosus

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Tips on CORAL BEAUTY ANGELFISH Care

Centropyge bispinosa (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Coral Beauty Angelfish or Centropyge bispinosus are members of the family Pomacanthidae. This species is indigenous to the Indo-Pacific, from East Africa to the Philippine Islands. Most of the coral beauties made available for the aquarium industry originate from Fiji.

This fish lives up to its name. Their heads, upper body region, and dorsal fin are bright blue or purple. This primary coloration fades into yellow or orange transitioning into a shade of pink at mid-body. Thin vertical banding of the primary body color breaks up this transition. Pectoral fins are typically orange or yellow. Anal and caudal fins are blue or purple. All but the pectoral fins are frequently outlined in neon blue. This species is also sold under the trade names Twospined Angel or Dusky Angelfish.

This is an excellent choice for amateur aquarists who want to own their first angelfish. They have all the exotic beauty one expects in a marine angelfish. They only grow to an adult length of 4 inches. So you don't need an enormous aquarium to house them. They can be raised in a tank as small as 30 gallons. Most angels carry a moderate to expert care level (depending on the informational source). Coral beauties are one of the hardiest angelfish. These fish have an easy care level so they are perfect for novice saltwater aquarium owners. Regardless of size, most angelfish are labeled as semi-aggressive. This species is among the most peace-loving of all angelfish. They may pick on smaller fish or fight with similar looking species as they mature but they do not demonstrate near the instinctive territorial behavior of most angels. More experienced aquarists will enjoy the fact that this species is rated reef safe if it is introduced to a marine reef environment as the juvenile and is well fed as an adult. All of these factors make the coral beauty one of the most popular and commonly kept angelfish in home aquariums.

This is an omnivorous species. Juveniles are primarily planktonic feeders. An adult's diet consists largely of algae. You will need to supply your aquarium with plenty of cured live rock to ensure the general health of any marine angelfish. Coral, crustaceans, mollusks, and worms comprise the remainder of an adult's dietary intake. This is why you want to introduce this species to a reef set up when they are still juveniles. The trick is to get them accustomed to aquarium food and algae as their total dietary intake before they develop their adult taste buds. Feeding should take place 2-3 times a day.

Like most angelfish, this is a hermaphroditic species. They are born of indeterminate sexuality. They will then develop into females. In a population consisting exclusively of females the largest, most dominant fish will undergo a hormonal change until it transforms into a male.

Coral beauties are one of the few marine species that have been known to breed in home aquariums. Breeding is induced by the release of a gamete, or sex cell, into the water. The gamete's presence will make this species feel the need to spawn. Spawning occurs shortly before dusk in their natural environment. In an aquarium, spawning is just as cyclic. Spawning will take place precisely one hour before the lights turn off in an aquarium with a timer. The fact that breeding habits make the transition into captivity is truly phenomenal.

Courtship begins with the male dashing around erratically in a pre-mating dance. Once the female is attracted, the perspective mates will then begin swimming side by side. The two will then seek out the most turbulent area in the aquarium. This is generally found next to the power head. The male will rub his nose against the female's side. The female will respond by expanding her fins in a seductive manner and then dashing off so as not to be thought of as an easy target for the male's affection.

Once the courtship rituals are completed, the female will release a small clutch of eggs (usually 12-20) one at a time for fertilization. The eggs are left to float away. Juveniles are platonic feeders. Fry must be fed newly hatched brine shrimp in order to increase their likelihood of survival.

By Stephen J Broy Fish are not the only pets you can keep in an aquarium. Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums are the latest trend in aquarium ownership. Moon Jellyfish & Pet Jellies are some of the most exotic creatures you can keep in a home aquarium. Article Source: EzineArticles

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GARIBALDI FISH - Hypsypops rubicundus

Garibaldi Fish - Hypsypops rubicundus

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Tips on AFRICAN FLAMEBACK ANGELFISH Care - Orangeback angelfish

Centropyge acanthops - Photo: Wikipedia (CC)

African Flamebacks or Centropyge acanthops are members of the family Pomacanthidae. They are natives of the western Indo-Pacific. Significant populations can be found around the shores of the Archipelago Island chain as well as along the entire East Coast of Africa. These shallow to mid-water reef inhabitants occupy depths from 20 to 130 feet.

This is a small fish, even for dwarf angles. It only grows to a maximum adult length of 3 inches. What they lack in size they more than make up for an exotic beauty. This is one of the most striking of all the dwarf angles. The bottom half of their bodies are a royal purplish blue. This is contrasted by dazzling yellow-orange upper bodies. The upper body color starts just below their mouths sweeps upward behind their eyes and then follows the curvature of their backs all the way to the base of their tails, hence the name Flameback. Dorsal, anal and pectoral fins are accented in neon blues. Caudal fins are typically yellow and semi-transparent. 

This species is very similar in appearance to the Brazilian flameback angelfish even though they are entirely different species. Brazilian Flamebacks can be distinguished by their solid blue caudal fins. This species is sold by the aquarium industry under several pseudonyms including; African Flameback angel, African Pygmy Flameback Anglefish, African Cherubfish, Orangeback Angelfish, and Jumping bean. The latter reference should imply that this fish needs to be housed in a tightly lidded aquarium.

This fish has a moderately aggressive temperament. They are generally peaceful in a community setting provided they are in the company of equally sized or slightly larger fish that are not docile in nature. This species may be reef compatible if it is introduced to your tank as a small juvenile. An abundance of cured live rock will help deter the possibility that it will develop a taste for coral and mollusks as it matures. Flamebacks may express territorial behavior toward similar looking species. These are harem fish. A single male and several females can be successfully housed together. The introduction of two males into an aquarium could easily result in a battle to the death. This species is rated at a moderate care level. A minimum tank size of 20 gallons with plenty of hiding spaces is recommended. Flamebacks can live up to 8 years of age.

This is an omnivorous species. Juveniles are primarily planktonic feeders. Adults learn more toward being algaevores. They will, however, also eat small crustaceans, mollusks, and coral in their natural habitat. This is why only a very young flamebacks should be added to a marine reef aquarium. If the fish's diet consists of plankton, it can be conditioned to finding all the sustenance it requires in supplied aquarium foods and lives rock before it develops its adult dietary habits. A well-fed fish will be less likely to discover that clams and corals are its favorite taste treat.

These fish should be fed a high-quality marine angelfish food preparation. Foods formulated especially for angelfish contain the essential nutrients needed to maintain a healthy specimen. Its diet can be further supplemented with vitamin enriched brine shrimp, mysis shrimp and dried or frozen spirulina algae.

There is more than one benefit to buying this species when they are still quite young. There are no distinguishing characteristics between males and females. Thus you will not be able to determine their sexes. Two males cannot be housed in the same aquarium together.

Problem solved: These fish are protogynous synchronous hermaphrodites. They enter life genderless. They will all develop into females early in their lifecycles. If there are no males present in the population as they reach sexual maturity, the largest most dominant fish will change into a male. The introduction of several of these fish when still young into an aquarium will result in a single male with a harem just as it would in nature. Despite their ability to change gender, these fish have not been known to breed in captivity.

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Tips on LONGFIN BANNERFISH Care

Pennant coralfish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The longfin bannerfish or Heniochus acuminatus is a part of the family Chaetodonidae. This family contains over 120 different species in 10 genera. Longfins are endemic to the Indo-Pacific region and the Red Sea.

These fish bear a strikingly similarity to the Moorish idol. They are narrow and triangular in shape with two thick black, vertical stripes contrasting against their white bodies. The first tripe is just behind the head. The second is located just prior to the base of their caudal fin. Their caudal, anal and pectoral fins are bright yellow in color. They have a long sickle-shaped crest the top of their dorsal fins that extends well past their tail just like their look-alikes.

So why is their resemblance to a Moorish idol of any significance? The exotic elegance of the idol makes it a very desirable choice among aquarists. Unfortunately, idols are one of the hardest marine species to maintain in captivity. Many expert aquarists can't manage to keep Moorish idols alive and healthy. Whereas the longfin bannerfish is one of the easiest fish to raise in a saltwater aquarium. 

You get the exotic look you are after without investing in a recipe for disaster. Longfins are in fact commonly referred to as "the poor man's Moorish idol," within the aquarium trade. Longfins are not considered less expensive than Moorish Idols. But they are much more likely to still be alive a year from now. This makes them a much more economical species. Longfin Bannerfish is also marketed under the names black and white butterflyfish, black and white Heniochus, and pennant coralfish.

Pennant coralfish are relatively large fish. They grow to a maximum adult length of 10 inches although 7 inches in length is more typical. This is a very active and robust fish. A minimum tank size of 55 gallons is recommended. If you intend on keeping them as community fish you will require at least a 100-gallon aquarium. These are peaceful animals and should not be housed with more aggressive species. 

They are a shoaling fish by nature and will mix well with other members of their species in the confines of an aquarium. There is a distinct possibility that they will establish a dominance hierarchy when first introduced into an aquarium. There may be a little bit head-butting until the pecking order is established. These fish may demonstrate territorial behavior toward other butterflyfish species. Pennants do not make particularly good marine reef fish. They have a tendency to nip at soft corals and smaller invertebrates. Pennants are mid-level to upper-level swimmers in an aquarium. They may live in excess of 5 years in captivity.

Longfins are omnivorous. They are primarily zooplankton feeders in their natural habitat. They generally acclimate quickly to aquarium foods. They will readily accept both flake food and pellets. As with all marines species, a varied diet will help avoid nutritional deficiencies and maintain overall fit and vigor. Frozen or freeze died preparations for marine omnivores is a good start. A good supply of well-established living rocks and dried algae sheets will help to round out their diets.

There are no distinguishing traits between the males and females of this species. These fish rarely breed in captivity.

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Tips on BLUE CHROMIS DAMSELFISH Care

Chromis cyanea
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Blue chromis or Chromis cyaneus are members of the family Pomacentridae. They are part of a group of fishes collectively referred to as damselfish. This species is endemic to the Western Atlantic Ocean, Caribbean, and the Gulf of Mexico. The chromis is a coastal fish inhabiting depths from three to sixty meters.

These are a small oval-bodied fish with a characteristically long, v-shaped forked tail. Their bodies are a solid, brilliant blue with the exception of markings along the outer edges to their dorsal fins. The shade of these markings will vary from pale to dark depending on the fish's mood. Both sexes and juveniles possess this same color palette. The family of fish the blue chromis belongs to have an average life expectancy of 12-15 years.

Chromis are a hardy, very active fish making them an excellent choice for the novice saltwater aquarist. They are often used as tester fish by aquarists cycling a new tank for the first time. They test water quality the same way canaries were used to test air quality in subterranean mining operations around the turn of the century. Their survival and continued vigor indicates that more exotic and expensive species can now be added to the newly established eco-system.

This species is labeled "reef safe" and can be mixed with other inhabitants typical of tropical marine reefs. They are considered non-aggressive toward other species. Same species quarrels are an entirely different matter. The general consensus is that they can be added to an aquarium in one of two ways. You can keep a single member of the species. Or your aquarium can become home to a community of no less than six. The shoaling instinct seems to prevail in larger groups. In smaller groups, these fish have been known to pick on the weakest member of the group until it is dead. This pattern continues until there is but a single survivor. If kept in a school a minimum tank size of 30 gallons will give them plenty of swimming room. These are surface dwelling fish in aquariums.

Chromis are diurnal omnivorous. In nature, they emerge from their shelter at sunrise and rise up toward the surface to feed on plankton. Spawning also occurs during daylight hours. At dusk, the fish will seek out shelter for the evening. Feeding them a variety of foods will help them maintain their color and spontaneity. They will eat frozen or dried food formulated for omnivores. They will also dine on any of the protein sources commonly fed to marine life. They sometimes eat algae in an aquarium.

Information on sexing this species is not readily available other than generalized statements declaring that it is not easy. They have, however, been known to breed in captivity. Maintaining a school fed a diet consisting of live foods will help to induce the spawning cycle. The male will construct a nest in the sand prior to spawning. He will then mate with several females. Eggs will be gathered into the nest where the male will stand guard over them until they hatch.

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Fact Sheet: QUEEN ANGELFISH - Holacanthus ciliaris

(Original Title: Facts About the Queen Angelfish)

A Queen Angelfish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Queen angelfish is considered the most beautiful of all the angelfish, although it isn't suited for a small aquarium. The Queen angelfish was named in 1758 by Linnaeus, a scientific name of Holacanthus ciliaris. They live to up to 15 years of age. If you decide to introduce a Queen angelfish to your aquarium there are some guidelines to follow:

Description

The adult Queen is blue with yellow rims on its scales. The ventral fins and pectoral fins are yellow, their lips and edging on their dorsal fins and anal fins are blue. They also have blue around each gill cover. They grow up to 45 cm in length.

The juvenile queen angelfish has blue bodies with yellow gills, tail, and lips. They have vertical bars ranging from light blue to white.

Geographical Location

The Queen angelfish is found in the Western Atlantic, from Florida to Brazil to the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. It is also found in the Eastern Central Atlantic, around Saint Peter and Saint Paul Islets. It is found at a depth of up to 70 meters. It can be found on stony reef corals and Porifera sponges.

Breeding

Adult Queen angelfish are found in pairs leading to suggest that they are monogamous fish. Reproduction occurs with the pair rising to the surface of the water and releasing sperm and egg in a cloud effect.

Females can release from 25-75 thousand eggs each evening, which equates to 10 million eggs in their spawning cycle. The eggs hatch in 15-20 hours as larvae. The larvae don't have eyes, fins or a gut. Within 48 hours the sac is absorbed and somewhat resembles a free-swimming fish. The larvae feed on plankton. 3-4 weeks later the juvenile will settle on the bottom and is around 15-20 mm in length.

Aquarium Requirements

The Queen angelfish is not recommended for a novice aquarist. It is sensitive to organic waste and because of that, it is hard to feed. It is a lively fish and swims in the open in the day.

The tank needs to be at least 150-200 gallons as it approaches its full size in length. It needs to have hiding spots for the Queen as well as other fish who may want to keep away from it. The Queen angelfish can be semi-aggressive and therefore should be added last to the aquarium. Two male Queen angelfish can lead to violence, but if it's to be kept with other angelfish they should all be introduced together. This is not a guarantee though that it won't be aggressive, however.

It is best to make sure the aquarium environment factors such as water temperature and pH-balance is stable before you introduce the Queen.

Queen angelfish respond well in a reef aquarium. They will nip at soft corals, clam mantles, and stony corals. It is best to train it to eat foods other than sponges, hydroids, tunicates, feather dusters because they can deplete the environment and it leads to malnutrition.

Food

In the sea, the Queen survives mainly on sponges. In an aquarium it is expensive to feed it only sponges so training it to eat other foods is advised. Serving up frozen meat foods like shrimp, squid and an angelfish formula which consists of sponges is beneficial. They also require algae on a daily basis. You can also feed them vegetables like spinach, aubergines, and zucchini. They require many small portions of food a day.

By Kate Strong Although there are a few requirements to get your Queen angelfish to thrive in your aquarium, the beauty of these fish certainly outweigh any hardships you encounter along the way. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Tips on GOLDEN DAMSELFISH Care

Golden damsel (Amblyglyphidodon aureus)
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Golden damselfish or Amblyglyphidodon aureus belongs to the family Pomacentridae. This family is comprised of 28 genera and 360 species. It includes all damselfish and clownfishes. Established populations of golden damsels extend from the western Pacific to the Eastern Indian Oceans southward to the Great Barrier Reef. This is a coral reef inhabitant occupying depths from 30 to 150 feet.

Golden damsels have a rounded body, spiked dorsal fin and the forked tail characteristic of its grouping. Its bright yellow color palette is accented with electric blue vertical pinstriping on its upper and lower body regions. Coloration has a tendency to fade as the fish matures. The golden damselfish is marketed under various aliases including yellow damselfish, lemon damsel, lemon peel damsel and golden damsel.

This is a hardy and somewhat aggressive species. Its ability to contend with a multitude of environmental parameters makes it an excellent choice for the inexperienced aquarist. The fish's stamina and its low price tag often lead to it being used as a biological stabilizer in the cycling of new aquariums. If the damsel flourishes in the newly established aquatic environment, then it is worth the risk of adding more expensive species of a lesser constitution to the aquarium. In a marine reef, it will not disrupt the anchored inhabitants or devour your ornamental crustaceans.

In nature, it makes its home amid gorgonian fans and black coral trees. These would make the perfect surroundings for a golden damselfish in a reef tank. This species reaches up to 5 inches in length as an adult. Take its temperament into account when choosing its tank mates. Although it is very even-tempered compared to many damselfish species, it should not be housed with smaller more timid species. Introducing this fish to a pre-established population or in unison with the other species you wish to keep in your aquarium will reduce aggressive behavior. A minimum tank size of 30 gallons is recommended.

The golden damsel is an omnivore. In their natural habitat, their diet consists primarily of zooplankton. These fish take readily to aquarium life. They are not picky eaters and instances of problems getting them to start feeding in their new surroundings are rare. They will eat common flake food formulated for marine omnivores. But as with any marine species, a varied diet will help ensure general health and maintain coloring. Vitamin enriched brine shrimp is a good supplement. They should also be provided with an abundance of living rock to graze on.

Damselfish are sequential hermaphrodites. They are all born as males. If a group of males is introduced to an aquarium together the largest most dominant of the group will experience a morphological hormonal surge until it gender transforms into that of a female. This is a trait common to all hermaphroditic marine species. Nature will always ensure that both genders are present in a population to ensure the prorogation of the species. These damsels are known to breed in captivity. The male damsel will instinctively guard freshly fertilized eggs until they hatch.

By Stephen J Broy Many home aquarium owners cringe at the thought of maintaining a saltwater aquarium. What most of them don't realize is that a Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquarium requires little more maintenance than a freshwater tank. Keeping Pet Moon Jellyfish is the hottest new trend in aquarium ownership. Article Source: EzineArticles

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PICASSO TRIGGERFISH - Rhinecanthus Aculeatus

PICASSO TRIGGERFISH - Rhinecanthus Aculeatus

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Picasso TRIGGERFISH

Picasso Triggerfish - Photo  by Paul and Jill 

Picasso triggerfish is one of the most commonly sold triggerfish in the marine aquarium trade. Because of this, it is also the most recognizable. Their scientific name is Rhinecanthus Aculeatus and they are also known as the Huma-Huma or Humu-Humu triggerfish. This species is collected around the waters of Fiji and Tahiti.

They are nowhere near as expensive as some uncommon species like the clown triggerfish or the expensive crosshatch triggerfish. They range anywhere from $30-$40 depending on the size of the specimen.

They are called the Picasso triggerfish because of the presence of a variety of colored lines across its body. Red, yellow, blue and white lines adorn its face, mouth and the main section of its body. They can attain a length of twelve inches and require larger aquariums with a minimum of 100 gallons because of this.

Like all triggerfish, the Picasso triggerfish has a huge head. Viewed from the side, it makes up to one-third of the total body size. This is a distinctive feature found in all members of the triggerfish family. They are also aggressive and highly territorial and will defend their nesting site against all uninvited guests as many a scuba diver has learned.

In the wild, they primarily hunt for crustaceans that include crabs, shrimp and even invertebrates like the sea urchin. They are able to crack the tough exoskeleton of their prey thanks to their immensely powerful jaws. Because of the strength of their jaws, they can deliver painful bites to their human keepers as well.

Because they are carnivores, we must try to mimic their diet in captivity. Offer them meaty foods like freshly chopped seafood that include fish, shrimp, scallops and such. Mysis shrimp, frozen krill and frozen meat mixes are some good choices as well.

Overall, Picasso triggerfish are very hardy and easy to keep provided it has ample swimming space and always be careful to select tank mates that can hold their own against this large and aggressive species.

By Indran Manickam - Article Source: EzineArticles

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LIONFISH - Pterois volitans

Lionfish - Pterois volitans

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LIONFISHES - Scorpaenidae Family

Lionfish * Firefish - Photo   by      Bob Owen

Members of this family are known commonly as Firefish, Scorpionfish, Rockfish, Stonefish, or Lionfish (amongst others). They belong to the order Scorpaeniformes, which includes 35 families, 300 genera, and more than 1,000 species. They are important both in the marine aquarium trade and as food (those of us fish-eaters living on the west coast are familiar with "Pacific Snapper" which is not a snapper at all-it's from the family Scorpaenidae). Fishes from the family Scorpaenidae are widely distributed throughout the oceans of the world (temperate and tropical), but the so-called lionfishes which are of the most interest to the marine hobbyist are indigenous to the tropical Indo-Pacific (although they have now established themselves along the eastern seaboard of the United States).

The species most often seen in the home aquarium are from the subfamily Pteroinae and the genera Brachypterois, Pterois and Dendrochirus. Of these three genera, the genus Pterois are the true lionfishes while the species in the other genera are generally referred to in the hobby as the dwarf lionfishes. Specimens from the genus Brachypterois are rarely seen in the hobby. All species of the subfamily Pteroinae are hearty, dramatic-looking and very capable of causing the lackadaisical aquarist a whole world of hurt through their powerful sting. Nonetheless, the potential of being stung is far outweighed in most hobbyists' minds by the positive attributes of the extraordinary lionfish.

The lionfishes from the genus Pterois get their name from the Greek word "pteron" which translates to "wing." Indeed, a large Pterois in open water-pectoral fins outstretched-is very much like a winged creature. Add to this display the rearing dorsal fin, and you can clearly see why this fish with a mane is commonly called a lionfish. The most recognizable species in the industry is the Red Lionfish (P. volitans). This impressive fish (not to be confused with P. lunulata or the Luna Lion, which is often sold as a red volitans) has earned its way onto the stamps of at least eight countries and into thousands of marine aquaria. Growing up to a foot and a half in length, these are very impressive animals.

The Red Lionfish, it should be noted, is not always red, and as such, members of the same species should not be confused based on dramatic color differences alone. Red Lionfish living in estuaries can be almost entirely black while those that inhabit outer reefs down to 55 meters may be much brighter in color. Generally nocturnal, the Red Lionfish in the wild spends its days upside down in a cave or head down in a rock crevice. When hunting, it uses its large pectoral fins to corral its prey (small fish and invertebrates such as shrimp and crabs) before stinging and consuming it. In captivity, the Red Lionfish is, in many ways, an aquarist's dream. Provided with the right captive habitat and diet, this fish will be long-lived and the center of attention for anyone viewing your aquarium.

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The other two genera of lionfish are generally thought of as the dwarf lionfish. They seldom exceed six inches in length. As already mentioned, specimens from the genus Brachypterois are rarely seen in the hobby, but dwarf lionfish from the genus Dendrochirus are quite common. In many ways, dwarf lionfish possess all the appeal of their larger kin, just in a smaller size. Although the dwarfs tend to be somewhat more sedentary and stick closer to the bottom of the tank, they can be kept in tanks half the size of those required for a Red Lionfish. Of the dwarfs one might consider, the Zebra Turkeyfish (Dendrochirus zebra) is always a favorite and relatively common. Many hobbyists swear that the less common Fuzzy Dwarf (Dendrochirus brachypterus) is the most "personable" of all lionfish.

Despite their differences in size, the true lionfish and the dwarf lionfish have similar captive habitat requirements (except, of course, for minimum tank size). Lionfish have a reputation as being remarkably hearty fish (second only to damsels some say), and while this is true, some care should be taken to provide lionfish with an environment that meets their species-specific needs. Because lionfish are nocturnal, they will not appreciate tanks that are brightly lit with metal halides unless there are places in the tank that remain heavily shaded. From the lionfish's perspective, even a relatively dark refuge in a tank illuminated by metal halides is inferior to a tank lit by low illumination fluorescents. More than one captive lionfish has been permanently damaged by being blinded by lights that are too bright.

Lionfish are not known to be particularly territorial and will share their cave or another place of refuge with members of their own species or other lionfish species. Having said this, keep in mind that recommended stocking densities for true lionfish are about 40 gallons per lionfish (and about half that for the dwarfs). In terms of water chemistry, while lionfish will appreciate stability in the system, they are remarkably resilient and can survive dismal water conditions (although this obviously should not be the goal). Lionfish do make a mess, and as a result, excellent mechanical/biological filtration and protein skimming are essential. Without appropriate filtration, a dive in alkaline reserve is likely to be accompanied by plunging pH necessitating a massive emergency water change. All this, of course, can be avoided by appropriate filtration, excellent protein skimming, and regular water changes.

Everyone knows when you go to the zoo not to feed the lions. If everyone kept the same in mind with their lionfish, far fewer would die in captivity each year. The reason you don't feed the lions at the zoo is that they are already being fed a healthy, appropriate diet by their keepers, and while there are those who may love to show off their lionfish snacking on live goldfish, this is really not in the best interest of the animal. It is true that some lionfish will not readily accept a captive diet (in which case it may be necessary to offer the specimen a live shrimp, small fish or crab at first), but the goal should always be to try to get the fish eating a captive diet. One technique that works well is the feed your new lionfish live feeder shrimp mixed with frozen mysis shrimp. Over time (days to weeks depending on the individual fish), increase the frozen mysis shrimp and decrease the live feeder shrimp until you have cut out the live food entirely. Eventually, lionfish should accept a captive diet including fresh or frozen foods such as krill, shrimp, silversides, and various prepared foods. Once the lionfish is settled in, offer food on a feeding stick, but don't force the issue. Feeding one to three times a week should be sufficient. Keep in mind that lionfish will eat smaller fishes, ornamental shrimps and crabs in your system, and remember that their mouths can open to leviathan proportions.

It is not uncommon to see some fin rot due to handling during the shipping process, and this is easily taken care of with furan compounds. Copper treatments are highly effective with lionfish suffering from protozoal infections like Cryptocaryon. "Coughing" or "shaking" disease is something you will experience with lionfish, but it's actually not a disease at all. This is a common behavior and aids in the shedding of skin (necessary to purge algae and sessile invertebrates that have attached themselves to the fish). In short, it is a perfectly normal part of life for many of these fishes.

At the beginning of the article, it was cautioned that lionfishes are capable of a powerful sting. This is true and something of which any aquarist should be aware before purchasing one. Lionfish are not poisonous, as if often stated-remember, many species in the family Scorpaenidae are important food sources. Instead, they are venomous meaning that they deliver their venom or toxin through injection (not ingestion). Lionfish have venom sacs connected to their spines, and while there have been reports of some individuals aggressively "charging" the hobbyist's hand when in the tank, most stings are the result of careless contact while cleaning the tank or handling the fish. If you are stung (either by an alive or dead specimen), it will most likely be painful and, although rarely fatal, it is possible to have a very severe reaction necessitating the attention of a physician. In most cases, however, expect a reaction like a bee sting. If you experience more serious signs and symptoms including, but not limited to, shortness of breath, nausea, and fever seek medical attention immediately.

In conclusion, while there is some risk in choosing to keep lionfish from the family Scorpaenidae, most hobbyists agree that the good far outweighs the bad. These incredible "winged fish" are almost inconceivable in their delicate beauty. The fact that a fish so exotic-looking and interesting is also relatively easy to acquire, hearty and long-lived is the proverbial icing on the cake.

By Ret Talbot 2008 (C) Blue Zoo Aquatics Blue Zoo Aquatics was formed in 2001 as a custom aquarium design, manufacture, installation, and maintenance company which provided its services in and around Los Angeles, California. The company founders and key personnel had either a background in marine biology or had spent their entire career in the saltwater aquarium industry. Customers who bought a custom aquarium were also frequently asking us to provide livestock and aquarium supplies, so we created bluezooaquatics.com to showcase our entire product offering and make it available to everyone. Today, Blue Zoo Aquatics has evolved into the complete source for all of your aquarium needs. Although we can still design and build you a beautiful custom aquarium, we are also proud to offer one of the largest selections of livestock on the web as well as a wide variety of quality aquarium supplies. Our business has expanded, but Blue Zoo is still owned and operated by the same team of expert aquarists that have dedicated their lives to helping people have fun and succeed with saltwater aquariums. - http://www.bluezooaquatics.com Article Source: EzineArticles

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