Showing posts with label Cyprinids. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cyprinids. Show all posts


Tips on TIGER BARB Care and Spawning

English: A young tiger barb, Puntius tetrazona...
A young tiger barb, Puntius tetrazona (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The Tiger barb or Barbus tetrazona are members of the family Cyprinidae commonly referred to as Cyprinids. Their habitat extends through the Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, and Borneo. There are also scattered populations in Cambodia.

Their name is purely descriptive. Tiger barbs have an orange body with vertical black striping. Tigers are just one of over 70 species of barbs made commercially available by the aquarium industry. Selective breeding has produced a wide variety of color variations. Color morphs are green, gold and albino tiger barbs. The green tiger barb is highly melanistic. Their body reflects green over the black due to a Tyndall effect.

The tiger barb has an even temperament and makes for a good community fish. They are mid-level swimmers. Barbs do have a tendency to be fin nippers though. This behavior increases in bigger groups. Avoid mixing them with large finned species such as angelfish, bettas, and fancy guppies. They are a smaller fish. They only grow to about 2.5 inches long as adults. You'll want to raise them with similarly sized species to avoid waking up to one less fish in your tank.

Barbs are a shoaling fish. Shoaling fish are community dwellers. They instinctively travel in groups. Shoaling fish are ill-adapted to a life of solitude. It is recommended that you have at least four of any shoaling fish in an aquarium. Six to eight is even better.

Barbs thrive in soft, slightly acid water with a temperature range between 68-77 °F.

They are omnivorous. They can live out their entire life fed nothing but common tropical fish flakes. But a diet supplemented with pure protein will help keep them fit, vigorous and colorful.
It is not difficult to distinguish between male and female tiger barbs. The males are typically more colorful. Males tend to have more red on their fins than females. The male's nose will turn red when it enters into its breeding cycle.

Breeding Tiger Barbs
Tiger barbs can be induced to spawn when provided with the right conditions. Tigers typically breed in early summer in the wild. Turn the aquarium thermostat up to 77 or 78 degrees. You want them in softer water such as bottled water or reverse osmosis filtered water. You will also want to increase the waters acidity level to approximately pH 6.5. If these conditions are not conducive to your other community dwellers simply use a breeding tank to create a controlled environment conducive to spawning. You will also want to increase their protein intake by feeding them brine shrimp, bloodworms or meat-based frozen or freeze-dried food.

Tiger barbs are egg layers. A trait common to egg layers is that they will eat their eggs if given the chance. This can be best avoided by placing a layer of marbles over the breeding tank substrate. The eggs will sink down in between the marbles and keep the eggs safely out of harm's way. After the adults have spawned they should be removed from the breeding tank.

The fry will hatch in about 36 hours. They will be free swimming in 2-3 days. Once they are free swimming they can be fed infusoria or liquid fry food formulated for egg laying fish. Larger fry can be fed newly hatched brine shrimp. In about two weeks you will be able to change their diet to finely crushed fish flakes.

    By Stephen J Broy
    The latest trend among Saltwater Tank enthusiasts is raising pet jellyfish. Jellyfish need specially designed Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums. Jellyfish tanks are easier to maintain than traditional saltwater setups. Moon Jellies are the most popular jellyfish among home aquarists both for their exotic beauty and their ease of care. They have become so popular that two US-based websites are now tank raising them to meet the growing demand. Pet Moon Jellyfish look absolutely incredible under a fading LED lighting system.
    Article Source: EzineArticles


Important Varieties of BARBS Available in the Market

English: Tiger Barbs
Tiger Barbs (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
There are a number of barbs species available for keeping in the aquarium but some of them are popular and preferred by fish keepers. Here is a list of some of them: 

1. Tiger barbs - They are really handsome because of their stripy nature, which looks like the skin of a tiger. They are very active and they prefer to live in their own group. Some experts have ranked them as the 10th popular species among the fish keepers. They are good for the beginners but they are equally good for experienced fish-keepers because of simplicity in their requirements. They prefer to stay in shallow waters and get along in normal temperatures.

Rosy Barbs
Rosy Barbs (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
2. Rosy barbs - They are relatively big in size as they can grow up to 6 inches. They were very popular in the last century due to their attractive color. They are also not of 'demanding' nature and they can tolerate a wide range of temperatures as well as conditions of water. They love to shoal and they can breed very easily and quickly.

3. Panda barbs - They are of black and silver color and very shy in nature. They can get along with other species of fish comfortably and they too can tolerate adverse conditions for some time. They are slightly expensive than other types of barbs and they are not easily available in pet shops. You have to be careful about their care because they can get sick because of stress and may die.

4. Cherry barbs -They are called community fish and they are smaller in size. They can grow only up to 2 inches and they do not require big tanks. If you keep them in their own group of about 10 fish, they can live happily. They are picky about their food but once you start offering them standard types of food, they will acclimatize themselves with it. They require dense plantation in the tank because they will lay their eggs scattered on the leaves of the plant and they also require a lot of places for hiding. They are popular amongst the fish keepers because of their dark blackish red color and there dance. They would like to dance around at the time of spawning, which is quite entertaining.

5. Denison barbs - Many times these barbs are mistaken for sharks! They are bright in color and they are angular in shape. They eat a lot of vegetables and they are fond of jumping. So you have to close your aquarium with a tight lid, otherwise, they can easily jump out and come to your dining table! Much fish-keepers order for them because of their shape. Though they look like sharks, they can get along with other species of fish without any problems.

6. Two spot barbs - They have the smallest among the barb community. They are very delightful because of their colors and graceful swimming. The only problem with them is their peculiar behavior. They are very aggressive at the time of spawning and they may hurt the female. So it is advisable to keep them in the proportion of three females to one male!

When you decide to purchase barbs, you should remember some important things - they may not look as attractive as your thought in the pet shops. This is because their colors are not as bright and prominent when they are young. When they grow and are ready for spawning, their colors brighten up. Another peculiarity of barbs is their habit of jumping. If you are not keeping them in a closed aquarium, they may easily come out of it. So you should consult pet shop staff before you make a decision to purchase them.

    By Chintamani Abhyankar
    Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way.
    Article Source: EzineArticles


Tips on RASBORA - Care and Spawning

English: Harlequin rasbora, Trigonostigma hete...
Harlequin rasbora, Trigonostigma heteromorpha (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Rasboras or Rasbora heteromorpha are members of the family Cyprinidae. Rasboras are native to Malaysia, Singapore, Sumatra, and southern Thailand. There are several species in the genus Rasbora. We will focus our attention on R. Heteromorpha. The Greek translation of Heteromorpha literally means differently shaped.

Rasboras are commonly referred to as harlequin fish or harlequin rasboras. This reference alludes to the black triangular patch on the back half of their bodies which is reminiscent to the patterns found on the costume of a harlequin.

Rasboras have a docile temperament. They make a good choice for a community tank provided their tank-mates are equally peace loving and not large enough to view them as a source of nutrition. Rasboras are shoaling fish. Shoaling fish are highly social creatures that function best as a community. They don't adapt well to a solitary existence. It is recommended that you have at least four of these upper to mid tank swimmers in an aquarium.

Rasbora is a small fish. They only grow to an adult size of 1.5-1.75 inches. They thrive it soft, slightly acid water with a pH 0f 6.8 and a water temperature ranging between 74-78 °F. Under ideal conditions you can expect them to live up to 10 years of age.

Rasboras are omnivores. They will survive just fine on a diet of common tropical fish flakes.
Distinguishing sexes in rasbora is relatively easy. The male bodies are thinner. Females are more full bodied especially when carrying eggs. The distinct triangular marking on the rear of their bodies differs between sexes. The males have more defined angular markings that extend further back on the lower abdomen than the females.

Breeding Rasbora

In their natural habitat, they inhabit streams that are littered with jungle decay. As a result peat grows abundantly in the streams releasing humic acid into the water. These same conditions can be simulated by filtering the breeding tank's water through peat or adding a thin layer of peat to the substrate. This will naturally increase the acid levels in the water. Make certain the peat contains no chemical additives or fertilizers.

A high protein diet of brine shrimp, tubifex or bloodworms will help induce the spawning cycle. Provide plenty of plant life to replicate their natural spawning grounds.

The male will begin chasing the male as a manner of courtship. Once the courtship phase is over the pair will spawn amid the foliage. Their eggs will be deposited on the underside of a broad leaf. Remove the adult from the breeding tank.

Once spawning has occurred you will want to darken the tank. The fry are susceptible to fungal growth. Surround the with paper or tin foil until the fry hatch and are free swimming. Eggs will hatch in about a day. After they hatch check the tank once a day. When you see the fry are free swimming it is time to start feeding them. This should take no longer than 3 days or so.

Free swimming fry can be fed liquid fry food formulated for egg layers or newly hatched brine shrimp. An economical and readily available alternative is powdered eggs. Make sure not to put too much in the water to avoid clouding it up.

    The latest trend among Saltwater Tank enthusiasts is raising pet jellyfish. Jellyfish need specially designed Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums. Jellyfish tanks are easier to maintain than traditional saltwater setups. Moon Jellies are the most popular jellyfish among home aquarists both for their exotic beauty and their ease of care. They have become so popular that two US based websites are now tank raising them to meet the growing demand. Pet Moon Jellyfish look absolutely incredible under a fading LED lighting system.
    Article Source: EzineArticles


Understand the Essential Facts on CHERRY BARBS Before Keeping Them

Cherry barb, Puntius titteya
Photo by brian.gratwicke 
Cherry barbs originated from Sri Lanka but these days they are found in Colombia and Mexico also. As they live in the calm waters, they can easily adjust themselves in aquariums and tanks.

They are basically middle tank fish meaning they love to stay in the middle level of the aquarium. They will rarely come to the surface of the water but sometimes they can make a trip to the bottom of the aquarium, searching for food and places to hide.

They are freshwater fish and are comfortable in moderate conditions of water. You should avoid making sudden changes in the temperature of water because it will harm them. You should also take care while changing the water of the aquarium because a sudden change in the water chemistry can put them under stress.

Like any other barb species, the females are bigger in size than the males. However, the males will be more colorful. The combination of various shades of cherry red color will be prominent on the males. The females will be in dull colors, especially orange and yellow.

In the open nature, cherry barbs will not spawn frequently but in aquariums, they will be very fast! During the period of spawning, the colors of the males will become brighter. The females will scatter their eggs all around the aquarium. However, you should take care to protect these eggs because the males will eat most of them. So if you transfer the eggs to another tank, there is a bigger chance of getting a large number of new ones.

Cherry barbs are very peaceful in nature but there are some exceptions. At the time of spawning, the male becomes very aggressive. Also, if you keep the only a few of them in the aquarium, they will develop stress and become aggressive. So it is advisable to keep them in a good ratio of three females per male. The normal size of their group should be about 10.

During the breeding season, the male will constantly follow the female and will try to keep away the other males. The females can lay about 300 eggs every day.

Normally, cherry barbs are not comfortable with other species of fish but if you keep them with the bottom-feeding fish like Loaches it can make a better combination. The Loaches are normally shy by nature and like to hide all the time but in the presence of cherry barbs, they will become more playful and both of them can make a good community in your aquarium.

Never make the mistake of keeping other species of fish with the cherry barbs. Even if you plan to keep tiger barbs with them, it is not advisable. Tiger barbs are aggressive species and they will attack and nip the cherry barbs. Angelfish are beautiful and usually peaceful but if you keep them with cherry barbs, there will start looking at cherry barbs as their tasty food!

Cherry barbs are fine with the normal fish food like flakes. They like live food such as brine shrimp or blood-worms as well. However, you should occasionally feed them with green vegetables like lettuce or spinach for proper nourishment.

If you take proper care of cherry barbs, they will grow up to 2 1/2 inches and live up to five years. You should provide them an aquarium with a heavy plantation because it is useful both for keeping their health as well as for their breeding.

    Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. 
    Article Source: EzineArticles


Have Fun Keeping DANIOS in Your Fish Tank

English: Female individuum of Danio margaritat...
Female individuum of Danio margaritatus.garitatus).
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Danios fish are great for beginners because they are easy to maintain. Due to their high energy level and mild temperament, Danios are an excellent choice for aquariums. They are normally found in freshwater rivers and in streams of Southeast Asia, and since they live in fast flowing streams, provide them enough space to move around and with a current from a power filter.

Several varieties of Danios fish are available and the most common among them is the Zebra Danio which can be easily identified by its horizontal stripes. Most of the species are brightly colored. Other varieties are Gold, Leopard, Blue, Giant, and Pearl. Two pairs of long barbels are present in them and they are characterized by horizontal stripes except in Black Barred Danio, Panther Danio and Glowlight Danio in which vertical bars can be seen.

Danios are playful and sociable and they live happily in the aquarium environment. Try to keep them in groups of more than 4. They get along with most aquarium fish. They can be kept along with Barbs, Rainbows, Clown or Yoyo Loaches, some varieties of catfish like Corydoras or Plecostomus Catfish and also with most of the Gouramis, even though they are smaller than Danios. I've found some or my smaller fish get intimidated by the always energetic Danios, and they will hide from them. They will chase each other and other fish continuously, but they don't attack

Danio kerri
Danio kerri (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Occasionally, they nip their fins, most of the time by accident. They will eat eggs and other small fishes that fit into their mouths. Make sure you have a tight fitting lid because Danios are good jumpers. Danios are used in aquariums to distract other aggressive fish from fighting as they are even-tempered.

Danios are omnivorous and will eat a variety of foods. They can be satisfied with regular flake food, but they love to snack on bloodworms or brine shrimp once in a while. They are voracious eaters, so you should not put them with timid feeders.

My Zebra Danios get pregnant all the time, but since I don't intend to breed them, they just eat their eggs. So if you do intend to breed them, you should feed them with plenty of fresh foods, and remove the parents from the tank until the new fish are larger. These fish usually consume small aquatic insects, worms, crustaceans and plankton in the wild.

They can live in temperatures that range from 68-80ºF. But they can learn to thrive in an unheated tank.

Zebra, Gold, Pearl and Leopard Danios will normally grow to a maximum size 1.5 inches. But Giant Danios will grow up to five inches in length.

Whichever kind you choose, you will have a ball just watching them play all over the tank.


Tropical Fish Overview - DANIO

Photo  by Katty Fe 
Looking for a companion to your Bala Shark or another tropical fish? Then look no farther than Danios. These fish are tough, highly vigorous, and have a mild temper. These fish are great for your home aquarium and suggested to be your first fish.

You want one-quarter of an inch of gravel on the bottom of your tank, with the heater adjusted between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The longer you keep your fish, you can slowly adjust the temperature to a point to where you do not even need a heater.

When buying food for your new fish, it is recommended you use freeze dried worms and brine shrimp. Danios are a community fish and prefer to live in groups of a minimum of 6 fish.

These beautifully long, sleek and shiny fish are a wonderful addition to your aquarium. Danios originate in freshwater rivers and streams of Southeast Asia. These fish are becoming more widely known as new species have been found in Myanmar. They can grow between 4 cm to 15 cm and are not expected to live more than a few years at most.

The Danio are wonderful fish to have with other types of fish. They can be unruly and have a tendency to chase one another and your other fish. This tends to lead to nipping of fins, although most of the time it was an accident. They will eat any fish small enough to fit in their mouths.

When preparing your water, you need to make sure the pH balance is between 6.0 to 8.0, and the water hardness of 5.0 to 19.0, with a temperature difference of 68 to 80 degree Fahrenheit, however, cooler temperatures are preferable.

If you choose to breed your own Danios, you might want to arrange a smaller tank for the babies. Also remember that they like to scatter their eggs, which do not adhere to anything, and hatch within 2 to 3 days. Remember - their eggs make easy prey if there is not a heavy layer of marbles or Substrate plants.

    Submitted by: Lee Dobbins
    About the Author: Lee Dobbins writes for Fish Tank Guide where you can learn about fish tank care and types of tropical fish such as Danios



TIGER BARB - Barbus tetrazona

Tiger Barb - Barbus tetrazona



Danio rerio, better known as the zebrafish
Danio rerio, better known as the zebrafish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Many fishkeepers sometimes get a little embarrassed when they admit that their first fish breeding was a livebearer, feeling that they, as fish keepers, didn't have very much to do with the event. Whilst this may be true to a certain extent, it nevertheless does mean that the fish had been kept in correct conditions and were sufficiently healthy to want to reproduce and this must be a reflection of their owner's skill in maintaining the aquarium over a period of time.

However, with an egg-laying species, the aquarist can have a great deal of control over what fish he wants to breed and, just as importantly, when.

It should be said here, that fish will breed whenever they choose inasmuch that should a ripe male and female encounter each other then they will probably spawn spontaneously in the aquarium anyway. Without the care and attention of the fishkeeper, the eggs from egg-scattering species especially will more likely than not be eaten by the other fish in the tank and no fry will be seen. The fry from egg-depositing fish stands a better chance as first of all their parents will prepare and defend a spawning site prior to spawning and also guard any subsequent fry afterward. Let's suppose you want to try your hand at breeding something deliberately and have taken the advice of many experienced fishkeepers by choosing that popular Cyprinid, the Zebra Danio.

First of all, we must ensure that the fish are 'in the mood' to breed rather than just put a male and female together and hope for the best. 'Absence makes the heart grow fonder' is one way of putting it but, realistically, separating the would-be parents is based on a practical rather than emotional supposition.

It is possible that should you simply select a male and female and put them together to spawn then one of them might just have spawned without your knowledge; in which case, the attempt to spawn them would be fruitless.

By separating the sexes prior to spawning, you can ensure that they are in the best condition; feeding them copious amounts of quality food (including live food) will make the females fill with eggs. This conditioning process can take a couple of weeks or so. The best way to do it might be to put the female into the breeding tank first before introducing the well-fed male later.

Sexing the fish is fairly straightforward: the male fish is more slender than the female and if you look at a female, even when she is not full of eggs, there is a definite kink in the horizontal stripes along the body just to the rear of the dorsal fin.

Like all Cyprinids, the Zebra Danio is no respecter of new-laid eggs, including its own. There are several ways to prevent egg eating. Any method that separates the adult fish from reaching their newly-laid eggs is acceptable.

One popular method is to cover the bottom of the aquarium with a layer or two of glass marbles (the eggs fall between the marbles beyond the reach of the adults). Alternatively, you can use a bunch or two of dense plants in the spawning area: as the male chases the female into the plants, she releases the eggs which after fertilization fall into the dense plants away from the attention of the adults.

There is no reason why you cannot 'flock spawn' fish. If you have several Zebra Danios then separating all the females from all the males during the conditioning period should give you more Zebra Danio fry than you'd believe possible upon the adults' reunion! But there's still the problem of egg protection.

The answer is to drape a piece of fine netting across the entire water surface area of the spawning tank so that it hangs a few centimeters below the surface; weight the corners down with small pebbles. Now all that is needed is to introduce all the preconditioned fish (both sexes) into the water above the net.

When the males chase the females, any eggs that are released and fertilized then fall through the net into the tank beneath before the adults have time to realize what's going on. The eggs are safe! In order to return the adult fish to their previous aquarium all you do is lift out the net (take the pebbles out first!). The fish are caught all at once with no stress at all.

Meanwhile, the fertilized eggs are quietly hatching and in a few days, you will see what looks like tiny splinters of glass hanging on the sides of the aquarium. These are your new Zebra Danios.

Because they are not exactly sizeable fry, they will require quite small particle-sized food at first. There are preparations of liquid fry food available at your aquatic store and it's a simple task to add a few drops of this at the recommended times to their tank. It may help if you keep a low-level light burning over their tank so that they can feed 24 hours a day.

It is important during these first few days not to over-feed - a difficult task, as you'll never be exactly sure how many baby mouths you've got to feed. Therefore, regular partial water changes are of the highest importance, if water conditions in the nursery tank are not to be compromised.

As the fry grow, then the feeding routine can mirror that outlined earlier for livebearers, with a gradual progression on to larger particle foods. Again, spacing out of fry into larger tanks may be necessary.


Fact Sheet: GOLD BARB (Puntius semifasciolatus)

Gold Barb Puntius semifasciolatus 2.png
Photo: Wikipedia
The Gold Barb, Puntius semifasciolatus is an excellent little aquarium fish. It usually grows to about two inches long (5cm) although I have seen ones nearer 4 inches (10cm). The Gold Barb is from Asia although the actual Gold form does not exist in the wild. Their usual lifespan is about five years.

Naming Confusion
This fish has many names. Other Common names are Golden Barb, Schubert's Barb, Green Barb, Half Stripped Barb, China Barb, Chinese Half Stripped Barb and Six Banded Barb. Other Scientific names it has been known by include: Barbus semifasciolatus, Pontius Shubertii, Puntius Shubertii, Barbus Shubertii and Capoeta semifasciolatus.

To add to the naming perplexity, the Gold Barb is often confused with: the Golden Barb (Puntius gelius) or the Gold-finned Barb (Puntius sachsii). The species name Shubertii refers to Tom Shubert of Camden, New Jersey, USA who developed the Gold Barb. He did this by selective breeding, presumably from the wild form of Puntius semifasciolatus, in the 1960's. I remember when I was a teenager keeping fish in the 1960's and later that the Gold Barb was called Barbus Shubertii. It was believed by some people to be a distinct species although there was already a suspicion that it was a form of Puntius semifasciolatus. I do not think that Barbus Shubertiiwas ever a valid scientific name.

Water Conditions
The Gold barb thrives in cooler water than most tropical fish. 18 - 24 degrees C (64 - 75 degrees F) is this fish's preferred range although it will certainly survive several degrees above this and a few degrees below. This means that it is suitable for either a tropical aquarium with the temperature set at 24 degrees C (75 degrees F) or an unheated tank in areas that do not get very cold. It is interesting to note that the color change was not the only change that happened when Mr. Shubert was breeding these fish. The Gold form of the species is a little less cold resistant than the wild type.The wild-type is sometimes sold as the China Barb and is a good aquarium fish although not as attractively colored as the Gold Barb.

The Gold Barb likes fairly soft, slightly acidic water, but does well over a range of pH. I usually aim for neutral (7). It will tolerate a moderate amount of hardness in the water.

The Gold Barb is an easily fed omnivore. Any good quality fish food is an excellent basis for its diet. As with nearly all fish, and most other animals, the Gold Barb benefits from the occasional change in its diet. Live food like mosquito larvae and Daphnia are gobbled up greedily. Frozen bloodworms also make a good treat.

The Gold Barb is a schooling fish and a minimum of six should be kept. The Gold Barb is not as likely to become a fin nipper as Rosy Barbs and Tiger Barbs but can be kept with these fish as well as with other slightly aggressive fish like Paraguay Tetras, Buenos Aires Tetras and Colombian Tetras. Because the Gold Barb is peaceful it can also be kept with fish like Pristella Tetras and Rummy Nose Tetras. I would not recommend them as companions for Siamese Fighting Fish, Guppies, and Endlers Guppies. Small fish like Neon Tetras and Cardinal Tetras can certainly be kept with smaller Gold Barbs. In all cases, avoid too great a size difference between the fish in your aquarium. Do not put large, aggressive or predatory fish with Gold Barbs.

Gold Barbs scatter their eggs over plants, preferably fine leaved ones. The males tend to be brighter in color and when ready to breed will get an orange-red belly. The females are duller in color and plumper. An increase in temperature to about 27 degrees C (80 degrees F) as well as a drop in pH to about 6.5 will tend to encourage them to breed. The spawning can be a little violent, so the tank should be reasonably big. I suggest at least two feet (60cm) long.

The actual spawning will usually take place when the tank starts to get light in the morning. I suggest removing the parents immediately after spawning. The average number of eggs per female is about a hundred although I have known of a female that produced over 400 eggs at one spawning.

An alternative way of breeding them is to have them in as big an aquarium as possible, with large numbers of plants and leave the parents in. Of course, you are likely to get fewer babies surviving, but this is a little closer to what could happen in the wild. A variation on this method is to put them into a well-planted pond in the summer months and catch all the fish before it gets too cold in the autumn (fall). The eggs are a yellowish color. They should hatch in 2-3 days. The fry will eat fine dry foods but benefit from suitable sized live foods at all stages.

Pest Fish
As with all captive fish, do release your Gold Barbs into the wild and do not put them in a situation where they could get out.


Tips on CHERRY BARB Care and Spawning

Cherry Barb
Cherry Barb - Photo   by       lakpuratravels 
The cherry barb or Puntius titteya is classified to the family Cyprinidae was commonly known as carp. The cherry barb was originally discovered and cataloged on the island of Sri Lanka in the Indian Ocean. Since its discovery, this species has established populations in the freshwater bodies of Columbia and Mexico.

Cherry barbs received their name because of their bright red color palette. They are a small, elongated fish only reaching a length of approximately two inches when fully grown. Typically, the upper part of their bodies leans toward a greenish shade with a slight sheen. A racing stripe that varies from a brownish color to bluish black runs from the tip of their snouts down the entire length of their bodies. Above the stripe is an iridescent band that is generally gold at the front part of their bodies and fades toward blue or green towards the tail. The males are redder than the females. But they do not develop the bright, cherry red coloration they are named for until they enter the spawning cycle. The cherry color is not found among the females of the species. Females are lighter in color and have yellow fins. The female's body tends to be a lot plumper than the males.

Cherry barbs make good community tank fish provided they are housed with fish that are not large enough to view them as a tasty snack. They are shoaling fish that take readily to heavily planted aquariums. Since they travel in schools in their natural habitat, it is advisable to add multiple barbs to your fish tank rather than a single fish. While cherry barbs do enjoy the company of their own species, they do not congregate as tightly as most barbs or tetras. It is, in fact, not uncommon to see a single barb venture away from the pack.

They are originally from Sri Lanka. Lake Sir Lanka is an island country in southern Asia located off the southern coast of India. Cherry barbs prefer soft, slightly acidic water with a temperature variance between 72-79 °F.

Cherry barbs are omnivores. They can be fed common tropical fish flakes as their primary diet.

Breeding Cherry Barbs
Cherry barbs breed in captivity. This is a good thing. Their numbers have decreased drastically in Sri Lanka.

Feeding barbs frozen or live meaty foods such as brine shrimp will help to induce the spawning cycle. The male, as mentioned earlier, will develop a bright cherry color when ready to spawn.

Once the male displays his spawning colors, the barbs should be placed in a breeding tank. Barbs scatter their eggs. Like most egg scattering fish, cherry barbs will eat their un-hatched eggs. A good breeding trick is to place marbles in the bottom of the breeding tank. The eggs will slip down in between the marbles and prevent the parents from being able to get at them. After spawning, the adult barbs should be removed from the breeding tank.

The fry will hatch in about 24 hours. The fry can be feed liquid fish fry food developed for egg laying fish. In a couple of days switch their diet to newly hatched brine shrimp or small amounts of powdered eggs. When they reach a week or two in age you can feed them finely crushed tropical fish flakes.


PIRANHA - Pygocentrus nattereri

Piranha - Pygocentrus nattereri


ROSY BARB, Puntius conchonius, Barbus conchonius

The Rosy Barb Puntius conchonius (previously Barbus conchonius ) is one of the most beautiful of the freshwater fish. They have a silvery or coppery pink color with a green cast along the back, and the males will have more pink on their underbellies. They are hardy, undemanding, and fun to watch because they are constantly on the move. These qualities make them one of the most desirable starter fish.

Rosy barb
An image of Puntius conchonius (Rosy Barb, Prachtbarbe, Praktbarb) (Photo: Wikipedia)

The color of these fish is always attractive but it most impressive when they are spawning. The males silvery color intensifies to a deep rosy red or a purplish red, and the fins get pink and black. Though usually referred to as a Rosy Barb, another common name they are known by is the Red Barb. They have also been developed in several ornamental varieties. Some of these include the Neon Rosy Barb, Long Fin Rosy Barb, Red Glass Rosy Barb, and Gold Neon Rosy Barb.

These barbs are a delightful choice for a beginning fish keeper but will make a dynamic display in any aquarists tank. They are peaceful and will do well in a community aquarium, with only an occasional nip on a tankmates fins. They do prefer cooler water than much other tropical fish, needing temperatures between 64-72° F (18-22° C). Be sure to select tankmates that will also thrive in a cooler tank.

Depending on the region they are from these fish vary some in appearance and size. They are one of the larger barb species so do need at least a 20-gallon tank. In the wild, they can reach lengths of up to 6 inches (15 cm). In the aquarium, however, it is more common for them to only reach about 4 inches (10 cm). Not only are they very active, they are great jumpers, so the aquarium needs to be covered.

When kept in a school, the males display an interesting behavior. They will continually swim around each other with their fins spread out, showing off their best colors. These fish are very prolific breeders but they will need a breeding tank with shallow water. They will happily spawn in water that is just a couple of inches deep.

The Rosy Barb has a torpedo shaped body and its tail is forked. It has only one dorsal fin. Lacking an adipose fin, a second dorsal fin to the rear of the first is a characteristic of all the Cyprinid fishes. This is a good sized fish reaching a length of up to 6 inches (15 cm) in the wild, though they generally only reach about 4 inches (10 cm) in the aquarium. They are mature at 2.5 inches (6 cm) and have an average lifespan of about 5 years.

The general coloration is silvery or coppery pink body with somewhat of a greenish cast along the back. Males are a more reddish color, especially on the underbelly and sides. There is a black spot just in front of caudal peduncle, and there may be some black along the top margins of the anal and dorsal fins. These fish will vary some in appearance and size, depending on the region they are from.

Size of fish – inches: 5.9 inches (15.01 cm) – In the wild, these fish can reach up to 6 inches (15 cm), but in captivity, they generally only get about 4 inches (10 cm).

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Check Your Knowledge Before Keeping BARB FISH in the Aquarium

Barbs come from a group of fish called Cyprinidae. This group consists of a big range of fish right from goldfish to sharks. However, there are some common things among them.

Gold Barb (Puntius semifasciolatus)
Gold Barb (Puntius semifasciolatus)
(Photo credit: 

Truly speaking, fish experts are not able to classify barbs at a group to which they belong. Some say that they are the members of genus Barbus and some others say they are the members of Pontius instead. However, this will not come in your way if you want to keep barbs at your aquarium.

You have to decide which type of barbs you want to keep. There are tiger barbs, which you cannot keep alone because they will get stressed and will be sick. Another type of barbs is called cherry barbs which are very colorful and they are peace-loving so easy to keep. There is one more important type, the rosy barbs. They are a bit difficult to breed but they are famous for their bright red and golden yellow colors.

If you are an experienced fish-keeper, you can even go for another type which is called clown barb. They will need a big tank with very high temperatures of water. In case the water is not warm enough, they can get sick very easily. Another important thing to be remembered about them is their eating habits. They are plant eaters and they will always try the plants in the aquarium as their food. However, if fully grown up clown barb is a really beautiful fish to keep.

There are some unusual varieties of barbs, which you can also consider. One of them is called Zebra barb. They can grow up to 5 inches and they have stripes like the zebra fish on their body. There are purple barbs which can grow up to 4 inches and they also have stripes on their body over a yellow background. However, this variety is not easily available because it is difficult to breed and difficult to transport.

When you go for buying barbs in a pet fish shop, you may not find them interesting because when they are young, they will look dull and they will not display their true colors. This is really sad because they make your aquarium colorful and beautiful later. Even the beginners will be happy to have them because of their simple lifestyle. When they grow up and become full-fledged adults, they will look really bright, active and beautiful. So they may not attract your attention at the shop and you may be tempted to buy some other varieties of fish.

If you have already made a good research on the Internet and if you have already decided to buy barbs, then you can speak to the staff of the pet fish store, understand the necessities you will be required to maintain for barbs and you can bring them home. They are not very expensive and they can always fit in your budgets. They can be easily accommodated in small aquariums and the requirements for their care are not very elaborate.

You can also inquire about purple-head barb with the pet fish shop. They will develop a unique raspberry color when they reach adulthood and start breeding. You can also ask for Gold barb which will be blooming with bright yellow color after reaching adulthood.

Your decision will depend on the information you have on this beautiful species. Their only requirement is a thickly planted aquarium providing plenty of hiding places. You have to also inquire about their habit of eating plants. Some of the species would like to eat plants but you can keep them in a separate aquarium where you can keep fast growing and sturdy plants.

There is another important habit of some other species of barb. They would like to scatter their eggs over the plants in the aquarium. So they need to be kept separately during their breeding time.

All these habits are not difficult to adjust when we consider their beautiful colors, shapes and activities. So if you want your aquarium really vibrant, maker good research on the Internet, discuss with your pet fish shop, pick up suitable varieties of barbs and start enjoying!

    By Chintamani Abhyankar

    Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way.
    Article Source: EzineArticles


Fact Sheet: ODESSA BARB - Pethia (Puntius) padamya

English: Photo of Puntius Padamya or Odessa barb
Pethia  (Puntius) Padamya or Odessa barb (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Odessa Barb, Pethia (Puntius) padamya, has been known to the aquarium hobby for many years, but was only described scientifically in 2008.

The Odessa Barb first came to the attention of the Aquarium Hobby as coming from Odessa in the Ukraine. It is in the group of about 10 species related to the Rosy Barb, Puntius conchonius. Other scientific names the Odessa barb has been called include Puntius ticto.

Although the type specimens of this fish were found in or near the lower Chindwin River in Myanmar, it is generally believed to be more widely distributed than this implies. The good tolerance of this species to low temperatures fits in with the belief that it can come from cooler, mountainous areas such as the foothills of the Himalayas.

Water Conditions
The Odessa Barb prefers cooler water than most tropical fish, 14-25 degrees C. (57-77 degrees F) being ideal. They are happy in either a tropical aquarium at 24 degrees C (75 degrees F) or in an unheated aquarium as long as it is not in an extremely cold area. In warm areas, this fish could be kept outside in ponds, but you would need to consider how cold it would get in the winter in your area.

Although the Odessa barb likes slightly acidic water, they are also happy in neutral or slightly alkaline conditions. A moderate degree of hardness does not seem to bother this fish.

The Odessa Barb is an easily fed omnivore and will eat all normal aquarium foods. The basis of its diet could be a good quality flake or pellet food with the occasional feeding of frozen food like Frozen blood worms or a live food like mosquito larvae or Daphnia.

The Odessa Barb is a schooling fish, and I suggest that at least 5 be kept together. Although not one of the most aggressive barbs, I would not tend to keep them with slow moving, long finned fish like Guppies or Siamese Fighting Fish.

This fish is a suitable companion for most of the Barbs, Swordtails, Platies, Rasboras and Tetras as well as the more peaceful larger fish like the Silver Shark, but I would avoid really aggressive fish as their companions.

The Male Odessa Barb has a more obvious Red stripe, especially when in breeding condition. The female get plumper when they have eggs.

The Breeding of the Odessa Barb is very similar to the breeding of the Rosy Barb. They are an easily spawned egg layer. They eat their own eggs and babies, so if you want a reasonable survival rate, it is necessary to remove the parents after spawning. The ideal water is moderately soft and slightly alkaline, but they do not seem to be too fussy.

Raising the Fry
The Odessa Barb babies are slightly bigger than many of the smaller egg laying aquarium fish. They also grow faster than average. As soon as they are free swimming they are capable of eating finely screened daphnia. A dry fry food can be used as the main diet while they are young. Suitable sized live food is a good idea at all stages of the growth of the fish.