ALGAE Problems in aquarium tank: simple and effective solutions

Photo: Wikimedia

Eradication of encrusting algae could be done simply by periodically scraping the sides of the aquarium or scrubbing the rocks.

For those with plastic plants and a completely white gravel bed, the situation could be more tasking as it would be necessary to bleach the rocks to remove all traces of algae.

However, if you do this, do make sure that you rinse the gravel thoroughly afterwards. Bleach is highly toxic, and even small amounts can have a drastic effect on the aquarium fish.

Since the primary cause of green algae is too much light. The first step in the treatment schedule should be light reduction then partial water changes and an adequate stocking of natural aquarium plants. A final treatment with an algal remedy should ensure that the problem is eradicated and is at least kept at bay for some time.

One of the factors mentioned above is the use of natural aquatic plants as a means of control. This is really more effective than many people think.

For a start, luxuriant plant growth will filter out some of the light keeping algae in check. In addition, plants absorb a large variety of chemicals from the water, thereby starving algae of some of their essential nutrients e.g. nitrates (not nitrites).

Surprising though it may seem, and adequate plant stocking level is approximately 50 small plants per square root of available space. The last treatment mentioned is the use of an algaecide. I must stress the word "use:" - it is very different to "abuse"!

Yet despite this difference, I know that some people will still persist in pouring the chemical remedy into their aquarium and expect the problem to disappear overnight, even though they have done absolutely nothing to alter the conditions in the tank that brought about the problem in the first place.

The conditions I stated above have to be adhering to for any lasting effect to occur! Now that we know how to curb the menace of the green algae, we shall discuss its "sister" - the brown encrusting algae whose case is the reverse of the green.

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The Top Seven Ways To CONTROL ALGAE In A Freshwater Aquarium

Pterygoplichthys multiradiatus (Syn. Liposarcus multiradiatus)
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A beautiful aquarium can quickly change into an unsightly mess when green algae take over. Algae is sneaky; it creeps throughout your tanks while slowly, innocently, covering everything inside your aquarium. Then, your friends stop by for a visit and they accuse you of neglecting your poor little fish. Let's look at the best ways to control this!

1. Change the Water - Regular water changes are necessary to keep fish healthy. During water changes use a gravel vacuum to remove some of the water while you suck out fish waste and excess food from the gravel. Since excess waste is converted by bacteria into Nitrates and Nitrates are a food for alga, vacuuming the gravel removes one of its sources of food. Also, vacuuming the gravel will physically remove some the unsightly mess by turning the gravel under. This vacuum action buries algae-covered gravel so it no longer can receive light. Without light, it will die.


2. Physical removal - Algae can be physically removed from the glass by wiping it with an aquarium sponge, algae magnet or scraper (razor blade scrapers work well.) Large rocks, driftwood, artificial plants, etc., can be treated outside the aquarium in a bucket containing a 10% bleach solution. It is important to rinse and dry them thoroughly before putting them back into the tank.


3. Natural Algae Control - Light is a key factor for algae growth. Fish only aquariums (aquariums without live plants) do not require lot of light compared to the intense light needed in order for live aquarium plants to flourish. For fish only aquariums, make sure there is enough light to see your fish; if you add bright light you will spend much time cleaning the glass and equipment.


4. Reduce Light Time - How long your light is turned on is another factor for algae growth. Generally, run lights 6 to 10 hours a day for fish only aquariums. Live planted aquariums require light from 8 to 12 hours each day. To control excess algae growth in a fish only aquarium simply shorten the number of hours the lights remain on.


5. Appliance Timers - An appliance timer is great for turning aquarium lights on and off at specified times. A timer removes human error so that the lights are not left on when you are out all night partying or fall asleep on the couch!


6. Live Controllers - There are several varieties of fish that eat algae. A few of the best choices are Otocincluss, Siamensis, and Plecostomus. Otocincluss are great for small aquariums as they grow to only to 2 inches in length. The Siamensis is another great choice -, especially for live planted tanks. One of the most popular algae eaters is the plecostomus (pleco for short.) The plecos seen most often for sale in pet and aquarium stores can grow over a foot long. A better choice for most is a clown or albino Bushy Nose Plecostomus as these fish grow to a mere four and four and a half inches long, respectively.


7. Chemical Treatment - There are several commercial algaecides which are safe for fish. If you keep live plants, read algaecide labels and follow directions carefully. Some algaecides can be harmful to live plants.

A final tip is to not to overfeed your fish. Excess food is not only bad for the health of your fish, it is also broken down by good bacteria, becoming a source of food for algae.

By Laurren Schmoyer Following these tips will keep your aquarium looking beautiful for longer times between cleanings. For more expert tips and advice on setting up, keeping and maintaining a freshwater aquarium, and much more, click here http://aquaticexperts.com/products/ Laurren Schmoyer owned one of the largest aquarium stores on the East Coast for over 25 years. He also owned an aquarium service company for over 28 years. He has spent many years teaching and training customers the experts' way to keep all types of aquariums healthy and thriving for years. Article Source: EzineArticles

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The Water Parameters For DISCUS FISH

The Amazon River is full of rooting vegetation which is a direct cause of the acid nature of the water.

Before you choose your Discus you must have the water parameters correct or matching closely to the place of where you are to buy your discus Fish.

Unless you are lucky enough to live in a place where the natural tap water is Acid and Soft, you will need the use of a Reverse Osmosis filter and a HMA filter.

The RO filter will remove 99.9% of everything in the water, making the Ph around 6.2 depending on where you live. The HMA filter will remove the heavy metals and the Chlorine, which are extremely harmful to discus. The HMA will not alter the Ph which is ideal, because we can use that to blend with the RO water to make the correct Ph.

Now if you are breeding you will need the Ph to be between 6.2 and 6.5. If you are just keeping discus say in a show tank you will need the Ph between 6.7 and 7.0. With the hardness between 3 and 5GH.

I like to use 'Indian Almond Leaves' in all my discus tanks as I find it gives a natural additive to the water similar to liquids you can buy which claim to add chemicals to the water that will give you that Amazon river consistency. The top breeders in the far east use these leaves. I always favour the natural approach every time!

Temperature should be 29 degrees centigrade.

Do your water changes regularly, the often the better, and you will not go far wrong!

Article Directory: EzineArticles

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