Showing posts with label Betta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Betta. Show all posts


Choosing PLANTS for Your BETTA FISH Tank

Clouds in the air
Photo by Joel Carnat
Betta fish use plants as a defensive strategy in their natural environments.  This allows them to avoid contact with predators and other male Bettas  Nervous or threatened-feeling Bettas will squeeze through close together plants to escape danger.  Because of this, it is important to include some kind of plant in your Betta's tank, to reduce stress and allow it to feel that it can hide.

While some people prefer artificial plants in their aquariums, live plants help to take care of harmful chemical byproducts in the tank, such as ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates.  They also perform the important function of gas exchange, keeping the water more oxygenated than an environment without plants or with artificial plants.  Soft and leafy plants are preferred, to prevent damage to the Betta's scales should it squeeze between leaves or branches.

Plants do require light, however.  An aquarium with live plants should have either access to sunlight or a light built into the hood.  Some plants which are recommended for use with Betta fish are the floating Water Sprite, Hornwort, and Elodea.  Tiger Lotus is considered good for use in tanks with breeding Bettas since it puts out a lily-pad-like leaf that sits on the surface of the water.  Male Bettas use this leaf to shelter their bubble nests.  Be sure to keep an eye on your Betta tank's plants, since dead and rotting vegetation can be bad for the water quality.  Java Moss and Java Ferns can thrive in uncycled bowls without any filtration.  They also require low to medium light and are thus suitable for aquariums or enclosures that cannot be put close to a window.

Live plants for your Betta tank can be found locally from some aquarium stores or ordered from the Internet.  All plants should be bright green and very healthy looking.  They should also be quarantined before placing them in with the fish, to make sure that they do not carry diseases or parasites that could harm your Betta  Be sure to acquire plants from a reputable source.  It is wise to do some research on your supplier before purchasing live plants for your Betta tank.  Bettas tend to interact more with live plants than with artificial plants.  Many types of artificial plants are also rough and could damage fins and scales.  Unlike fake plants, real ones will also sway attractively in the water as the fish swims through them.  When the time comes to clean the tank, some plants can be gently removed and rinsed if this is desired.  This is particularly easy when using free-floating plants like the Java fern.



HMPK Dragon Genes M - Betta-Territory
Photo  by Daniella Vereeken 
Betta Fish Care Guide Reports
In accordance, Betta Fish Care Guide reports, Those of you who know me understand that We have 3 Bettas and have nearly 24/7 with them. They are users of my household, my kids in a funny kind of way. They challenge me, they make me laugh and there have been periods when they have been the explanation of amazing distress in my life. These are the days we are planning to speak about here. These are the periods we want to listen to.

Betta Fish Care Guide Points

In Betta Fish Care Guide, there is a great deal to growing a Betta, and raising a Betta is exactly what you do. In the event you go to the Local Fish Retail outlet or go online or exactly where you get your Betta, you are taking a fish (especially the males) that have been raised a few fish are. There are good reasons a Betta will not react to attractive much any other fish in your fish tank to the other fish in your tank. He has never been around other fish since he was a fry. Soon following it was motivated that he was a male he was deleted from the tank and placed in someone jar or some other short container so he would not struggle to the death with others of his kind. He easily doesn't understand that there are other fish who are Permitted to be in with him. Well, We have been not going to go into the whole Betta psychology now.

Betta Fish Care Guide about Types
For more Betta Fish Care Guide, Contrary to famous opinion a Betta cannot live in a BETTA BOWL or such comparable sized tank. We would say the minimum for a, in fact, glad Betta is 5 gallons. The Betta bowls or cute little containers they have to appear up with now are impossible to heat or filter and we can come to that momentarily, but Bettas are Tropical Fish and as this kind of, desire to be kept in heated and filtered water. Being Tropical Fish, Bettas should be saved at a temperature of 78 degrees F (25 degrees C) at a Lowest on a consistent basis. It would be much the more to aim for 80 degrees F (26 degrees C) to make them even happier. 

It is vital as the Betta seems to be especially prone to some of the cold water situations such as Ich and Finrot. These diseases are essentially prevented by conserving the tank temperature at steady and acceptable ranges. and water parameters fantastic. Here again, because the Betta is a Tropical Fish and especially because you love your fish and do not want to field him to have to live in a sewer, you need a GOOD filter in the tank you will be housing him in. This options chemical, biological, and mechanical filtration - no undergravel filters (UGF). You will discover many varieties of filters out there but not all of them are ideal for a Betta. Bettas are not given to being in a strong current so you desire to discover a monitor that is adjustable to the levels that it supplies a ripple or brief waterfall - not a torrent. They do like some movement to the major surface of the water as they are one of the Labyrinth fishes. These fish have an organ on the major of their heads that not only allow them to breathe air like we do, but demands it.

So if dust, scum or everything else builds upon the surface of the water and the Betta is prevented from reaching a clean floor spot, he will drown. He also uses his gills so he can vacation underwater for a time, but if you watch your Betta he'll go to the surface and "butt" the surface with the top of his brain, this is his "breathing air". A lot of proprietors supply a tall plant for their Betta to sleep in at night so they won't have to swim so far to "breathe".

    Minara Zumey Minora is a doctor and her hobby is writing - Article Source: GoArticles


BETTA FISH Colors - Buying A Healthy Betta Fish

Trad PK Yellow Dragon M - Banleang
Yellow Betta Fish - Photo  by Daniella Vereeken 
Many of the betta fish available to buy at stores are already sick from being kept in unhealthy conditions. Sounds strange, isn't it?. In any case, you need to know how these wonderful pets perform in their natural habitat. This would enable you to make an informed decision about buying a healthy betta fish.

Environment: Are the cups clean or are they perfect for soil wet? Is there a bad smell in the rhythm? It could be from dead fish.

Color: Bettas are admitted for their vibrant coloring. Of course, there are variations that are pallid or white. supplementary likely, however, the dull color is a sign of emphasis or poor health.

Did you know the color variations you can look for? Well here is a snippet of information just for you.

Betta Colors

Selective breeding has to produce a rainbow array of colors for Bettas. Some of the more common options are listed below, but you can find more variations from breeders.

Red - red shades run from bright to dark burgundy and brown

Apricot - sometimes called peach too. This is a soft pastel shade.

Yellow - from golden to lemon. A Betta that is a mix of yellow and black can be a Chocolate if pretty solid-colored, but if the yellow scales are outlined, it's called a Pineapple Betta.

Green - the color turquoise is a genetic variant on green. A very dark green is very rare and highly prized.

Blue - royal blue, cornflower blue, and steel blue shades are all available.

Purple - colors can be pale (lavender) to dark (violet).

Black - solid smokey or with lighter fins, called Black Lace.

White - this opaque color is not albinism, and you can tell as these Bettas will have black eyes.

Albino - a rare but natural occurrence like with other fish and animals. A true albino will have red eyes.

Multi-colored - these Bettas have mixed colors, and this name covers all fish that have no predominant color-tone.

Behavior: You want an active fish, floating upright, not spending too much occasion on the boat. If a betta fish is motionless it could be sleeping. Don't dig on the glass as that commit emphasis it out. Be subtle trying to obtain his stress.

Fins: The fins should be liberated from wholes or tears, and spread fairly instead of clamped together.

Scales: The scales should be flat and smooth. They should ' t be loose or peeling.

Gills: Make sure the gills are smooth, not red or stringy.

Eyes: The eyes should be clear and not be bulging or sunken.

Hope this article kept you more informed about the fascinating world of betta fish



English: Siamese fighting fish (Betta splenden...
Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens), female, (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Many people believe and are encouraged by their Local Pet Shop, to simply use water from the tap and only add chlorine neutralizer when obtaining water for their Siamese Fighter's tank. While this method will work for a small percentage of locations, it is a recipe for an unhappy, sick or dead Siamese Fighter in most locations. With the numerous chemicals used to treat our water, gone or the days when you simply add water than fish.

Phosphate is added to our water to prevent pipes from rusting and in very small amounts is beneficial to fish, but in large quantities is a silent killer. Phosphate is not like chlorine that will dissipate from the water within a given time frame. It is the opposite, building in concentration if the correct water is not used in water changes. A simple test kit will tell you what the phosphate reading is in your water daily. You will find that certain days the water will be unusable and others the reading is fine. It is on these days that you fill a drum with water to get ready to set.

PH is the next factor to take into consideration for your Siamese Fighting Fish. Siamese Fighting Fish like a PH range of 6.8 to 7. Once again a simple test will tell you what the PH of your tap water is. However, it is important to retest the same water after you have let it sit with an air stone or pump to turn it over for at least 24 hours. Depending on your location, the PH may rise, fall or stay the same. A PH that stays the same or falls is easier to set to the necessary requirements than one that rises. To adjust your PH up or down, you can purchase products from your Local Pet Shop, but steer clear from the powder forms of these products, as they can create phosphate problems. 

The liquid products are the better alternative. If you are adjusting large amounts of water, 200L or more a week, these products are expensive. Alternatives are Bi-Carb Soda (baking soda) for PH up and Hydrochloric Acid for PH down. Hydrochloric Acid is a corrosive poison, so follow all the safety directions on the container and store in an appropriate location. Hydrochloric acid can be purchased from a pool shop. Add small amounts of PH up or down, and retest the PH around an hour later. Sometimes, it may seem that nothing is happening, then all of a sudden there are results. This is why it is better to do this in a separate container than in your Siamese Fighter's tank, where you can do harm.

Once you have the PH range, you need to set the water hardness. For Siamese Fighting Fish, the water hardness range is 450 TDS (totally dissolved solids) or a KH of 2-3 and a GH 4-5. This is important as it measures the mineral content in the water. Not enough minerals, means a sick or dead Siamese Fighting Fish. If your water is above this range, mixing with rainwater or RO water will help you to lower the reading. If your water is below this range, adding tropical salt, aquarium salt or rock salt will raise your water hardness. Be aware that some commercial aquarium salts will create phosphate, just like the powder form of PH up and down, so check that the one you are using is fine. Also check the PH level again, as this may raise with the adding of the salt.

Once you have all these areas in range for Siamese Fighting Fish, it is right to use. Because of the time is taken to set water, it is advisable to set enough water for several water changes. This allows you time to set more water before you need it. Store set water away from chemicals, such as insect sprays, hair sprays, deodorants and cleaning products, as these are all deadly for any fish. As time-consuming as this may sound, it is better for you Siamese Fighting Fish. If you cannot find the time to set the water correctly, check with your local pet shop as several wholesalers now sell bottled water especially for Siamese Fighting Fish.


Getting the Best Out of BETTA FISH Bowls

Betta fish bowls are easier to maintain than larger fish tanks. If you do not want a large aquarium or you don’t have any plans of expanding the number of fish you have in the future, a bowl can serve as the home of your Betta fish. There was a huge issue before whether it is advisable to use a bowl to house a fish.

Day 38: The UFO
Beta Fish Bowl - Photo by

People back then put gold fish in fish bowls and it created a rage among animal activists because according to them this kind of fish should thrive in a large aquarium. The Betta, on the other hand, should have no problems with a bowl because it only grows 2 to 3 inches max. It also has a labyrinth organ that allows them to take oxygen directly from the atmosphere in addition to the oxygen taken from water using their gills. This is the organ that enables them to gulp air and spit out bubbles to produce a bubble nest.

Betta fish are popular among beginners because they are pretty much inexpensive to care for and Betta fish bowls are easily accessible. Betta or Siamese Fighting Fish can live in smaller containers, unlike other aquarium fish. They can survive without filters and aerators that other fish can’t survive without. In Thailand (where they originated from), a lot of native breeders just keep them in 2-liter bottles. Some even keep them in water-filled bags and they manage to keep the fish alive.

When we’re talking about Betta fish bowls, you have to get at least 1.5 to 2 gallons. Anything less than this is not really recommended. You might have seen pet owners who keep their Betta fish in plastic cups. This is not good, this is actually a cruel thing to do. Don’t take care of a fish if you want it to just merely survive. It is important to keep it healthy and happy otherwise it is better off in the wild. Buy a decent sized bowl so that the fish can swim around. It will be easier to maintain a larger bowl because waste can easily scatter.

Put the bowl in an area where the temperature ranges from 77EsF to 86EsF and since it will be difficult to install the heater, keep it away from sources of either hot or cold air like air conditioning vents and direct sunlight. You can decorate the bowl with live plants or silk plants. Aside from making the bowl look nicer, you also provide a hiding place for your Betta. Add some gravel but make sure you don’t overfeed because gravel catches uneaten food and it can rot which will pollute the water. You can put a filter in your bowl but make sure you get something that is intended for Betta fish bowls.



Does a Siamese Fighting Fish need a filter? The answer is yes and no. A Siamese Fighting Fish is a labyrinth fish, meaning that it is capable of removing oxygen from the air as humans do. So unlike most fish, a Siamese Fighting Fish does not need a filter to oxygenate the water in their tank. However, like most fish, a Siamese Fighting Fish has little tolerance for ammonia. 

"Memnon" a cambodian coloured male B...
"Memnon" a cambodian coloured male Betta
(Photo credit: 
Ammonia poisoning is a common cause of death in Siamese Fighting Fish, simply because not enough water changes were performed when necessary. Ammonia in high levels will kill a Siamese Fighting Fish but the levels before this is enough to weaken a Siamese Fighter's immune system, leaving them vulnerable to bacteria and fungus infections. And this is why a Siamese Fighting Fish needs a filter.

If you are not prepared or have the time to set water and do waters changes every couple of days, then you may need to look at putting a filter in with your Fighter. With a good established biological filter in your fighter tank, water changes may be cut by more than half. Note established biological. This is not something that happens overnight or as soon as you turn your filter on. A good filter will work three ways in your tank, mechanical, chemical and biological.

Once you have set your filter up in your tank and turned it on the mechanical, which pulls debris into the filter starts working as well as the chemical aspect, removing certain, not all chemical and metals from the water. However it is the biological aspect that confuses most people.

Biological refers to the good bacteria necessary to break down fish waste, leftover food and other decaying matter. And there is only one way to get instant bacteria in a new filter, and that is by putting either sponges, bio-balls or filter wool from a filter that is already established into the new filter.

A simply water test will tell you if the filter is established or not. If the ammonia and nitrite readings are zero and there is a nitrate reading then the filter is established and some of it's filter media may be used to seed the new filter. However if there is any reading in either or both the ammonia and nitrite tests, then the filter is not fully established and not ready to seed a new filter. If asked some Local Pet Shops will sell you some of their filter media to seed your new filter if you do not have an established filter at home.

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You can establish biological in your filter from scratch, which can take between six weeks to six months depending on the method you use. But using your Siamese Fighting Fish is not a good idea at all. There is a good chance that your Fighter will not survive the cycling process, even with the help of live bacteria cultures that are available on the market today. While this information may sound daunting, time consuming or simply too difficult, ask yourself which do you prefer, water changes every couple of days or water changes when then nitrate reading is 20 (which depending on the size of your tank, filter and how you feed may be once a fortnight or month)?

Your Siamese Fighting Fish will be happier and his immune system better with an established filter in his tank, providing him with cleaner water for longer. Just watch that the current produced by the filter is not too fast for his long flowing fins. If your Siamese Fighting Fish suddenly goes into hiding, then you will need to slow the water flow down. This can be achieved by either controlling the output of the filter or using a spray bar to diffuse the water over a larger area.

The last important thing to remember with filters is that when you rinse them out when you do a water change, DO NOT USE WATER FROM THE TAP. Councils adds chlorine to our water to kill bacteria and this is what will happen to the good bacteria that you need in your filter. Rinse your filter out in water from your tank and by doing so save the bacteria that you need.

Cutting down time spent on water changes means more time spent enjoying your Siamese Fighting Fish.



How much food is enough for a Siamese Fighting Fish? The answer is how much they want to eat within several minutes. Like humans, Siamese Fighting Fish have days when they won't eat much and other days when they will eat like pigs. They will eat more of their favourite food such as blackworms and mosquitoes larvae and less of some manufactured foods depending on your Siamese Fighting Fish.

You may even find that they will turn their noses up at some food. So instead of dropping food in the tank and racing off to do other jobs, when feeding you Siamese Fighting Fish it is a good idea to keep placing small amounts of food into the tank until your fighter has stopped eating. Any uneaten food should be removed so not to pollute the water.

betta splendens
Flickr Photo by  h080 

Food should be rotated between freeze dried, pellet, frozen and live. A variety of food will ensure that your Siamese Fighting Fish is receiving all the nutrition that it requires. Freeze dried foods include blood worm, brine shrimp, blackworm and Tubifex. A variety of pellet and flake food are available on the market at present, just check the protein content in the brand. You are wanting a brand that has around 45% protein in their product. Frozen food such as blood worm, brine shrimp and mysis shrimp can be purchased from most Local Pet Shop and stored in your freezer.

It is also a good idea to give your fighter one day a week without food. This day without food helps to clear it's digestive system. A green pea with the shell removed and squashed will also help clean a fighter's digestive system. If given after their day of starvation, you will have a better chance of your Siamese Fighting Fish eating it. Live food such as blackworms should be fed only two to three times a week, unless you are conditioning a pair for spawning. Live Blackworms can be stored in a container with fresh water in the bottom of your fridge. Change the water daily and feed a small amount of pellet or flake food twice a week. Blackworms also like banana skins as food.

A Siamese Fighting Fish will survive being fed only once a day, which means that the water will not be polluted as quickly. Although if they were given the choice, you would be feeding them three times a day. Which to condition a pair for breeding/spawning is recommended. If feeding once daily, do ensure that what you are feeding them is good quality.

Having shipped and received Siamese Fighting Fish, from some 2000km away, they will survive without any harm for four days without food. So if you are going away for the weekend, your fighter will come to no harm because he has not been fed. He may act like he is starving but it will not hurt him at all. Just make sure that he cannot jump out of the tank if he see anything that may look like food.

    For more information or care tips for Siamese Fighting Fish, visit []
    Article Source: EzineArticles


10 Things to Consider When Shopping for BETTA FISH TANKS

Bettas are among the most interesting and low-maintenance fish you can keep. And their ability to breathe atmospheric oxygen and live in very small volumes of water allows them to be housed in a variety of small aquaria that can complement any home or office. However, there are some important considerations to bear in mind when shopping around for the perfect tank for your pet betta. Please read on as we discuss these issues and our own opinions on what to look for in a small betta tank.

Characteristics of The Best Betta Fish Tanks

English: Two colorful female Siamese fighting ...
Two colorful female Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens
(Photo credit: 
1) Adequate Size
Yes, it's true that a betta can live in a small bowl, if it had to. But this is not the most fulfilling life for such a regal fish. In addition, very small bowls are prone to heating and cooling extremely rapidly, as well as suffering quickly from pollution that can easily occur from even slight overfeeding. As a general rule of thumb, we suggest a minimum tank size of one gallon to keep one adult betta. Of course, your betta would be happy if you provided a larger aquarium, but a gallon container is generally sufficient so long as it is diligently maintained. Bettas can also be housed in community tanks, but take care not to keep them with fish that tend to nip fins. For example, tiger barbs are notorious for fin nipping, and will shred a betta's fins very quickly. Shredded fins are not just a cosmetic issue, unfortunately, and a betta with badly torn fins can easily die from stress and/or secondary infections like ick/fungus.

2) A Good, Tight Fitting Cover
Bettas are not what I'd consider big time "jumpers," but they can and will jump when given half a chance. Sometimes osmotic or other stress will cause them to jump, and sometimes they will leap simply because the can. To minimize any risk of such escape, for whatever reason, do yourself a favor and put a lid on the tank. Be careful though to leave some air space between the surface of the water and the cover as they are air breathers and need to gulp air occasionally.

3) No Strong Currents or Water Movement
This is a consideration that I often see overlooked, especially in some of the smaller betta tanks. Bettas have evolved to thrive in still or stagnant waters where this no little or no current. And, as a consequence of this design, they are unhappy when subjected to currents typically generated by hang on back filters or powerful aeration. Bettas require water that is either still, or very placid. They do not require aeration of any kind, especially when properly maintained and in a tank by themselves. If you do use a filter at all, make sure that the tank is large enough (e.g., 3 gallons or more) or the filter can be dialed down (e.g., an air release valve on an aquarium pump) such that the betta does not need to exert effort to maintain its position in the water column. If your betta is getting pushed around or fighting to stay still, it will put constant stain on the fish that can eventually lead to disease or death.

4) Bare Floor or Fine Substrates
Bettas don't need or want any substrate in their tanks. In fact, bare bottom tanks are best for you and the betta since they facilitate easy clean up. If you do want to add some colorful gravel, however, keep it sparse and opt for relatively small grained types, rather than the large, marble-sized gravel that is often sold for small decorative bowls/tanks. Very course gravel makes a great trap for uneaten food, which then decays and causes potentially lethal ammonia spikes. Finer gravel (pea-sized or smaller) allows the fish to get at food that lands on the bottom, and still allows you to see when food is left uneaten and needs removal - both of which is better for your fish.

5) Regular Light Cycles
Fish, like most vertebrates, react profoundly to light cycles. As a species that lives close to the equator, your betta will expect a photoperiod of roughly 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. If you don't use artificial lighting, you don't need to provide any, but avoid turning the lights on late at night when your fish is preparing to "sleep." Also, try to purchase a tank that uses LED lighting. LED lights are by far the most efficient and long-lasting type you can buy, and also generate the least amount of unwanted heat.

6) Warm Temperatures
Unlike goldfish, for example, which can thrive in very cold water, betta are a very tropical fish. In their native waters of Southeast Asia, they rarely experience temperatures below 76 F. Consequently, you should always aim to keep your bettas at a minimum temperature of 72F, with a temperature of 78F being ideal. Bettas can certainly withstand cooler temps for short durations, but extended exposure to water temperatures below 72F make them lethargic and highly vulnerable to infections and diseases, particularly fin rot, ick, and fungus.

7) Individual Housing
Although female bettas can be kept together, males cannot be kept with other males or females. The only exception to this rule is if you are attempting to breed bettas, in which case the male will tolerate the female (grudgingly) only until the eggs are laid, after which time he will attack and kill her if the tank is not large enough for her to escape his line of sight.

8) Good Water Quality
Whatever you do, you must keep a betta's water clean. This means that periodic water changes should be conducted, which involve removing any debris from the bottom of the tank. A good rule of thumb is to change between 30-50% of the water per week. This keeps the water fresh without changing things too drastically. Make sure to use dechlorinated water and try to match the temperature of the new water to the old water.

9) Placement in a Calm Area, Away From Direct Light
You wouldn't want to live next to a 6-lane highway, and neither would your betta, so keep the tank somewhere away from heavy foot traffic. It's difficult enough living your life in a small transparent container, don't make matters more stressful by locating the tank where your betta will be subject to constant movement and/or vibrations. Also, locate the tank away from direct sunlight, which can cause rapid temperature spikes and encourage algae growth.

10) Simplicity!
If you've chosen a tank of sufficient size, keep the betta by itself, maintain proper temperatures and keep up with regular water changes, there's not much else you need. Be wary of vendors that try to sell lots of accessories for beta-only tanks, like sophisticated filters, lighting, etc. These things are usually unnecessary.


Preparing For a BETTA FISH

Getting ready for a pet is the busiest time of owning it. To get started, make sure you have a good supply of funds, and will be able to afford all the things to care for the needs of you new pet. You will also need to make sure you have time to care for and bond with your pet. Many people do not think you can bond with fish, but they are a very special type of pet that can live in a rather smaller size area, and still provide the companionship you need in a lonely or busy life. And do not hesitate to talk to your fish. They will listen, and not talk back or interrupt. Pets are also proven to be a health benefit.

English: Betta Splendens fish with his bubblen...
Betta Splendens fish with his bubblenest just prior to a water change. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Betta, or Siamese Fighting Fish, is a tropical beauty native to Thialand. They naturally live in rice patties. Though these are rather shallow, they are hundreds of mile wide, and one fish can live in up to 100 gallons.

When you head to the pet store, be sure to pick up these things for your new Betta tank:

  • Tank, no smaller than 5 gallons, preferably with a lid, and no vases.
  • Tank stand, this is if you do not have anywhere to place your new aquarium.
  • Filter, this will help you keep your tank water clean longer.
  • Heater, Bettas are tropical and NEED heaters, get one that is adjustable.
  • Silk or live aquarium plants, (FRESH WATER ONLY!)
  • Other decor, be sure none of the things you put in are sharp enough to tear pantyhose or come from saltwater tanks.
  • Aquarium gravel, if you like.
  • Fish food. NOT FREEZE DRIED! Variety is better, and Bettas do not really like flakes, pellets are OK, but blood worms, brine shrimp, etc. are better for mimicking the natural habitat of a Betta fish.
  • Water conditioner. This is good for tap water especially, but it is still recommended for well or fountain water.
When you have your supplies, you can put your tank together. Remove the tank from the box and place it were it will be standing. Make sure you are close to an outlet, where you will be powering your heater and filter from. (If you have a stand, put it together first.) Add the filter, heater and gravel, plants and decor. Fill the tank with water and add the instructed amount of water conditioner. Turn everything on and let it run overnight, you should be able to buy your fish the following day.
Have fun!


Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on BETTA FISH Explained

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!
Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta are an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So lets get started...

Siamese fighting fish, B. splendens, is often ...
Siamese fighting fish, B. splendens, is often referred to as betta in the U.S.
(Photo credit: 

1. How Do You Stop Betta Fish From fighting?
This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!
In my experience I've found a few ways that work...

One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to over do it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the war path!

A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.

Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together this will reduce fighting astronomically.

Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off , but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!

2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?
Yes you can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.

3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish
I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...

You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where as males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.

Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.

However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.

4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta fish?
Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...

- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.
- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.
- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!
- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.
- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.
- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!
I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.

5. What Should I Feed My Betta Fish?
Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:
- Brine shrimp
- Daphnia
- Frozen Bloodworms
- Blackworms (Tubifex) worms
- Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops
- Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry
- Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)
I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.

6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?
Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.

Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...

7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?
There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:
- Betta Splendens (the most common type)
- Betta Bellica
- Betta Coccina
- Betta Picta
Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:
- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)
- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)
- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)
- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)
- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)
- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)
Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)

8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?
Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!

However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.

9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank Be At?
Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.

It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis, because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.

10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?
Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although, the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.

I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry are able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.

That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

    By Simon Anderson
    Simon Anderson is a recognized Betta Fish Expert and has researched 37 different breeding and caring programs for Betta Fish on the Web! The best 3 he found are revealed along with his jealously guarded secrets on how to breed Astonishing Betta Fish at
    Article Source: EzineArticles


Basic BETTA FISH Facts

If you've been enchanted by the beauty and engaging personality of betta fish and you think you would like to own one, here are a few basic betta fish facts that may interest you. Some of these tidbits of information might actually be helpful while others are just interesting and simply add to your general knowledge about betta fish. Such basic facts as origin and natural habitat are essential if you really wish to own and take care of bettas.

A male metallic double-tail Betta (Betta splen...
A male metallic double-tail Betta (Betta splendens) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The Betta splendens, or the Siamese fighting fish, is a native of the slow moving streams and ponds of Asia. First seen in Cambodia, which was known before as Siam, hence the name Siamese fighting fish, it can also be found in Vietnam, Thailand, and China. Bettas are known to be very aggressive towards other bettas and will fight until their opponent backs down or gets seriously injured just to defend their territory. This behavior has been exploited for entertainment purposes, but these days the aggressive traits of betta fish are often bread out by the breeders.

Without a doubt, the beautiful colors and flowing fins make the betta a very attractive pet fish. Another reason for their appeal is that they tend to respond to their owners much more than other fish. Their eyesight is phenomenal and they will usually approach the water surface when they see you coming. Male bettas have longer fins while females' fins are shorter. Male bettas are also larger and much more colorful.

The aggressive nature of the betta is the reason why it is difficult to keep them in a single tank without them exhibiting aggression towards each other. Though they attack other bettas, they are surprisingly tolerant of other types of fish and are oftentimes bullied by other aggressive fish. Maybe it's because they do not treat other types of fish as competitors for females.

This trait makes bettas a suitable addition to a community tank, although they will not make good tank mates with just any fish, and they will probably always be happier when alone.
If you are planning to build a community tank, you would be well advised to do some research on compatible fish for a betta.

Another betta fish fact that you might find interesting is their method of breathing. Instead of breathing underwater like most fish, bettas breathe air instead of water with an organ called the labyrinth. That's why you might notice them going up to the surface and opening their mouth every once in a while. For that reason, it's best to keep bettas in an aquarium that is not too high. Their frequent trips to the surface may require too much energy, which would stress them out and make them weaker and thus more susceptible to disease. That's why, even though some aquarium designs may be very appealing to you, if they are too tall, they will not be the best choice for a betta.

A good example would be wall-mounted aquariums. They are very popular with many aquarists because of the ease of maintenance. The Aqua Bella aquariums, for instance, require water changes only once per year. Even though technically appropriate for betta fish, they would not be ideal.

Remember betta's natural home - shallow, warm and still waters of rice paddies. In aquarium terms that translates to 10 inches from the substrate to the surface of the water as the ideal height for a betta.
If you want to keep a betta as a pet, you must always keep in mind that bettas are originally from a tropical climate. In order to keep them healthy, you must replicate the conditions of their natural environment. Water temperatures of around 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit should keep the fish comfortable and reduce the chance of parasites. You should also make sure that your water isn't moving too fast in case you have an active filtration system. Bettas are used to slow moving waters and strong currents might stress it.

Some very popular aquariums have rather strong filters. Be sure to ask about that before your purchase, as not all manufacturers are aware of the needs of bettas in this regard and they sometimes advertise or recommend certain types of filtration for betta fish tanks, even though the current is definitely too strong.

If you would like to deepen your understanding of these beautiful species, betta fish facts can be found all around, from books in the library, to Wikipedia entries on the Internet. They are not only entertaining but also informative. Certain facts are also essential to you, if you aspire to become a betta fish owner, since this knowledge could help you improve your ability to care for your pet fish.

    By Mischa Hill
    Mischa Hill is a Betta fish enthusiast. His website compares prices on a large selection of betta fish aquariums [].
    Article Source: EzineArticles


BETTA FISH ILLNESS - How You Can Help Prevent Your Fish From Exposure to

1. The quality of the water in the tank or aquarium: The temperature, the cleanliness, the pH level of the water, the quantity of the water in the tank all play a role in your fish's general health.

English: A female (Betta splendens).
A female (Betta splendens). (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
2. The quantity and quality of your betta fish's diet: Your betta only requires a certain amount and certain types of food every day. How does underfeeding or overfeeding your fish impact its health? What about the variety of the types of foods in your fish's diet?

3. The "amenities" of your fish's habitat: Are there rocks in the fish's aquarium? What about plants? Are they real or artificial? Could they be producing harmful toxins that could be adversely affecting your fish?

4. Your fish's socialization: Does your betta live in isolation or does it coexist with other fish? How well does it get along with the other fish? Is your habitat causing undue stress on your fish?

How can you tell if your marine friend is faced with one of the many betta fish illnesses out there?

Your fish is docile and inactive most of the time.

You see signs of discoloration, fading on your fish's body.

You see visible signs of irregularities on the fish's body or in its fins such as rips, tears, or even bloating under the belly.