Showing posts with label Aquarium Technology. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Aquarium Technology. Show all posts

2017-06-27

Defining BACTERIAL AUGMENTATION and Competitive Exclusion For the Novice Aquarist

The novice aquarist must face a variety of problems when a new tank is started. Beginning aquarium woes often commence with the lack of understanding exactly what is going to happen in the first six weeks the tank is active. Without knowing what processes are occurring invisibly in the aquarium, too many beginners overload the aquarium with fish right away and sentence their new pets to death by their own excretions. The fish actually create the majority of the poisons that kill them! 

Often the rest of the deadly compounds comes from excessive feeding that rots and promotes decay. In the new aquarium, Ammonia is produced by the fish and decay processes. It can rapidly build to toxic levels. If the pH is acid (below 7.0) the toxicity of ammonia is often minimal, even in what could be considered high concentrations. However, it rapidly becomes extremely deadly when the pH reading rises over 7.0. The higher the pH, the more dangerous ammonia becomes, even in smaller concentrations.
Nitrogen Cycle in aquariums. Legend: (1) Addit...
Nitrogen Cycle in aquariums. Legend: (1) Addition of food and nutrients, (2) Production of Urea and Ammonia by Fish, (3) Ammonia is converted to Nitrites by beneficial Nitrosomonas bacteria, (4) Nitrites are converted to Nitrates by beneficial Nitrospira bacteria. Less toxic Nitrates are removed by plants and periodic water changes. (5) Evaporation. (6) Light, (7) Soil, (8) O 2 produced by plants, (9) CO 2 produced by Fish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

As time goes by, even starting from a sterile environment, beneficial bacteria that specialize in using the ammonia as an energy source establish a foothold. With enough time, adequate populations develop that can reduce the ammonia as quickly as it is produced. They produce nitrite as a by-product. Nitrite has no relationship with pH or any other water characteristic. As nitrite rises in concentration, it is equally deadly for fish in any water conditions. Once again, nature has provided a bacterial strain that will rapidly eliminate nitrite, nitrobacter. The specialized bacterial strains use nitrite for energy and create nitrate as the final step.

Nitrate is a good plant fertilizer, but otherwise is not removed by standard processes in the aquarium. It constantly builds to levels that eventually become harmful to fish. There really is no reliable way to remove it other than by dilution. The standard water change is the most effective method to remove high levels of nitrate with the waste water. Fresh tap replacement water replacement normally has low or non-existent amounts. As new water is added to replace siphoned used aquarium water, the overall levels of nitrate are lowered and controlled by this simple method.

The entire system heavily depends on a strong and vibrant population of two separate bacterial strains (nitrosomonas and nitrobacter) doing their job. In addition there are a multitude of other bacteria that are constantly at work breaking down waste materials into component parts this is the natural decay process. A big part of this waste removal is the production of ammonia. In the very beginning, there are no bacteria of any kind to start with, they have been killed by the chemicals water companies put into the water supply to make it safe for human consumption. Assorted bacteria strains do start to populate quite quickly, but as far as the invisible bacterial world is concerned, ammonia and nitrite reducers are quite slow to replicate. There are many other types that are much faster to exploit a suitable niche and can inhibit nitrosomonas and/or nitrobacter from thriving.

It takes ten days in a perfect environment for a single starting bacteria that reduces ammonia to populate the billions upon billions of its fellows required to eliminate ammonia as soon as it occurs. The bacteria that reduces nitrite to nitrate is even slower to replicate. It has the further disadvantage of being inhibited when there is too much ammonia present. Once the ammonia removing bacteria are plentiful enough to eliminate ammonia immediately, then these weaker strains will begin to grow, taking another three weeks to get to high enough densities to remove nitrite immediately as well.

Biological Augmentation of the bacterial filter

The above is a very brief synopsis of the Nitrogen Cycle, it is meant neither to be complete or exhaustive, but the timing of the bacterial population crests are important. It is this long lag behind many other types of bacteria all fighting for the same space and elements that gave rise to the concept of bacterial augmentation of the biological filter. Although there are disagreements of which particular strain of bacteria that actually do the work removing ammonia, classically it has been defined as nitrosomonas, and few would argue that these are the bacteria that can do the work. In the past few decades, certified pure strains of both nitrosomonas and nitrobacter have been isolated and cultured quite successfully. Even before this advance, it was long felt that if you added these bacteria to the aquarium directly, they would help reduce the length it takes to get the populations up to size as well as keep the actual concentration levels much lower.



In the very early days, this was done by simply grabbing a handful of gravel from an old, established aquarium and adding it directly into the new aquarium. Since both of these previously mentioned beneficial bacteria are lithotrophic and attach firmly to clean hard surfaces, this did work to inoculate a beginning aquarium with the bacteria living in the old tank, whatever the strains. There was always the risk that the older tank had other, less desirable strains that tagged along as well. Many tanks introduced a disease into it along with the beneficial bacteria.

Then came the first bacterial suspensions that contained living bacteria, in the early 1980's. These were actual living and breathing bacteria, bottled active and alive and sold with very short expiration dates. The concept was to provide a concentration of specifically cultured bacteria that do a particular job and supercharge a new system with them. The spikes of ammonia and nitrite were felt to be reduced and the fish had a better chance of surviving the break-in ordeal. The main drawback of this first product was that it went out of date so fast. You had to get it right off the truck and use it immediately, as every hour saw the loss of some more of the bacteria.

Soon a newer product arrived that was able to deliver much higher concentrations of both bacteria, coupled with some of the best waste reduction bacteria in the same bottle. The shelf life, from culture vat to consumer was extended because it exploited the newest technology, which allowed pure cultures of nitrosomonas and nitrobacter along with a few powerful waste reduction strains to be cultured into extremely high concentrations and then shut down and forced to hibernate until the bottle was opened. The advancement of causing the dormancy of the bacteria was thought to be impossible, and although many seem to believe it still can't be done, the success of the product for over 20 years on the market proves it to be viable.

When the technology advanced to the point where billions of bacteria spores and hibernating cells were concentrated into every ounce, the concept of competitive exclusion also became a reality. Unlike throwing a handful of gravel into a new tank and hoping the right bacteria strains make it, the ability to culture a pure strain of bacteria, mix it with other pure strains to form a team allows the knowledge of exactly what is being put into the aquarium. By dosing in recommended amounts every week, the balance of population is shifted in favor of the strains being added. Over time, they become the dominant bacterial strains, which is fine, because if other pathogenic species appear, they are crowded out by the more dominant types. This is the definition of competitive exclusion, inoculating the aquarium with the beneficial bacteria and crowding out potential pathogens.

Many companies have provided products like this to the market, have a friendly chat with your local life fish store about which one of these preparations they recommend. By regularly dosing the filter and aquarium with billions of bacteria every week, the tank stays in better health and actually seems to run with less chance of bacterial disease. Fungus is also reduced as the amount of waste is more rapidly decayed to composite parts before a problem can occur.

    Steve Pond

    Having kept and bred many different types of tropical fish for the past forty years, I am dedicated to providing information required for the novice aquarist to become successful in this fascinating hobby. Keep tropical fish alive and thriving in your first aquarium through the critical first six week and beyond. Visit my blog website (http://www.noviceaquarist.com/blog) for more detailed information specifically tailored for the novice aquarist on all aspects of the beginning aquarium. Besides my own personal contributions, a variety of other sources are polled and added regularly to the content warehouse available there.

    Article Directory: EzineArticles


2017-06-05

CHEMICALS in your Aquarium

You've seen all those chemicals at the Pet Store, and you've wondered if you'll need one bottle of each of them.  And then you wondered if you still want to get into this aquarium hobby after all.  Well, here's the good news, most of that stuff is unnecessary, even worthless.  Don't get me wrong, you'll occasionally need some of these products, but there is only one of these chemicals that you'll always use, so let's start there.

The tap water that you are using to fill your tank, it contains chlorine. It's harmless to people, deadly to fish, so you'll need to remove it.  Now, don't panic, you won't need one of those kits that Grissom uses on CSI.  Indeed, a single bottle of dechlorinating liquid is cheap and lasts for months.  Just make sure that you read the label because some of the products are concentrated differently, so some of them require fewer drops per gallon of water.

The chlorine in your tap water actually dissipates fairly quickly, completely breaking down in about 24 hours.  So in a pinch, you could just fill your bucket and let it stand for a day before using the water, but with the cost of dechlorinating products so low, it hardly seems worthwhile.  Just remember, if you chose to use the "let stand" method, make sure you place your water in a location where it will not be contaminated.

You should also invest in a bottle of test strips.  These strips, after being dipped into water, will show you a variety of information about your water.  Your Ph level, water hardness, ammonia level, nitrates, and nitrites can all be tested using the most common dip strips.  That's a lot of information; in fact, it is more than you'll actually need.

The truth is that most commonly sold aquarium fish will do just fine in any normal Ph range or water hardness level.  Don't worry if your fish type comes from Peru where it lives in soft acidic water because the fish you bought was probably born and raised in a fish farm in Florida.  Then it was packaged up in a big bag of water and sent to your pet store where it was dumped into the local tap water.  Most fish are NOT that picky, but they do need clean water, and that's where the test strips come in handy.

When your fish eats, it produces waste.  This waste then breaks down into ammonia, which in turn changes to nitrites, and then into nitrates.  Like chlorine, these chemicals can damage and even kill your fish.  So you need to remove them if they rise to a high level.  The test strips will tell you if your levels are too high, and if they are, your answer is fairly simple-it's time for a water change.

Once your tank has been established for a few months, you will not have to test it as often because your tank will develop beneficial bacteria that help break down these chemicals more quickly.  For the first few months though, you should probably check your tank once per week or so, making sure you have time to do a water change if it should prove necessary.

And that's basically it.  Oh, there are chemicals that will lower your Ph, or raise it, medications for sick or injured fish, chemicals to destroy algae, expensive aquarium salts, and all manner of other niche products that you really do not need.  These products are available to keep the fish store in business.  Most people and their fish NEVER need these products, so unless you have a sick fish, just stick to the basics.  You'll save some money and avoid driving yourself crazy.



2017-05-30

AQUARIUM ORNAMENT

Aquarium ornaments aren't there to add any benefits to the fish, they are just for you to add some decoration in the tank. You can have all sorts of ornaments, big or small, traditional or caricature, simple or even complicated. There are thousands of different ornaments that you can buy in stores or you can even make your own. However ornaments are not for all fish, some fish don't like them, I know for a fact Oscars don't take well to any type of ornament or even plant. Some fish do need them though, basically to hide or live in and keep away from bigger fish.

March 15 -21, 2011
Photo by osseous

Traditional ornaments are ornaments like castles and ships, they provide security for smaller fish from the bigger ones, they also provide a place to stay and play, yes fish do play! Fish ornaments are available in pet and fish stores. They tend to range from very low to very high prices. You can of course get more detailed ornaments that aren't shaped to be anything except for like branches with weeds on them. Some fish need their ornaments to resemble their natural home, for example lots of plants and branches in the tank.

If you have amphibians in your tank they often like a waterfall ornament with a bathing pool at the bottom of it so that they can bath in it. Amphibians need a lot of greenery in their tank as this resembles their home and therefore you should try to make sure that you fill you tank full of it! Aquarium ornaments are easy to come across and they don't take much effort to put in the tank.

You should always try to keep the ornaments like the animals natural habitat unless it is a fish that couldn't care less, like goldfish for example. Goldfish are very easy to keep and you can decorate their tank with all sorts of funny ornaments. With smaller fish you can try to decorate their tanks with funky ornaments but I always feel that the traditional ones are better!


2017-05-04

AQUARIUM LAMP, Bulb Types

This article will discuss some of the more common aquarium lights (lamps) available as well as a few that are not as well known such as the SHO and T2 bulbs/fixtures.

Common aquarium bulbs include the:

*Metal Halide (MH); These are the reigning "Kings" of reef aquarium due to depth penetration, output, spectrum, and over all beauty and amount of coral life they help support. Even the newer T-5 lamps cannot achieve the depth penetration and overall output of these lights.

Metal Halide work via a gas mixture of halides and other elements. The actual light production comes from the small bubble of gas that is held in place by metal wires and/or supports. The electricity running between them and the small gas bubble, heats them, similar to an incandescent filament. This is one of the reasons that Metal Halide bulbs give off more heat than other bulbs.

The downside is the heat that MH lights produce, often resulting in the need for hood fans and even chillers. Two sizes I most often have used are the 10,000 K 175 watts and the 20,000 K 250 watts for really deep tanks (over 30")

*LED: The new reef compatible LED is likely to take over the market as they become more readily available, the price comes down and watts per lumen come up. These lights do not have the heat problems and are very compact. LED lights may prove to be more suitable for aquatic life tank-lighting and reef tanks because they offer superior flexibility when compared with traditional fluorescent lighting. When LED lights operate, the photometric radiation remains within a narrow band on the electromagnetic spectrum. Specific photometric wavelengths are often beneficial to some aquatic plant life and reef tanks. Controlling specific wavelengths becomes possible through a basic network of colored LED lights connected to a digital LED controller. Since LEDs emit light only in very specific direction, the installer has the option to illuminate a precise area by simply rotating the polycarbonate tube casing. The water resistant casing also provides the LED circuitry with adequate protection against moisture and chemicals found within the fish tank or reef tank.

So far the there are mixed reviews on the larger units such as the Solaris that replace the MH. The manufacturer of the Solaris claims "PAR light output levels equal to a 400W MH 20k.  It uses 40% less energy than the 400W MH 20k fixtures it replaces.  The life of the LEDs is approximately 50,000 hours, so it almost eliminates metal halide and fluorescent bulb replacements. All heat is radiated up and away from the tank; therefore, it does not heat the water like Metal Halides or Fluorescents. This eliminates the need for Chillers." However data shows 20 lumens per watt, MH bulbs provide around 50 lumens per watt as the output.

*T-12; a standard pin, 1-1/2" wide bulb. This bulb will generally use more watts per lumen output

*T-8; a standard pin, 1" wide bulb. As compared to the T-12, a 48" T-12 will use 32 watts, while a 48" T-8 will use 32 watts.

*T-5; Generally around 13 mm in diameter. This is a mini pin bulb which generally uses even less watts per lumen than many than T-8 bulbs.

*T-2; These bulbs are the latest technology yet. They measure only 7 mm and allow for several bulbs in a small space. A 13 watt 20 inch T-2 Bulb (6400 K) produces 950 lumens which is 73 lumens per watt in a very small space!

Quite bluntly, these T2 lamps and fixtures are about the best bulbs in a small space I have seen! These are very useful for small planted aquariums or Nano Reefs or even shelves for betta breeders. I expect these new T-2 lamps to sweep the smaller aquarium keeping hobby due to their extremely high efficiency and out put.

*VHO; this stands for "Very High Output". These come in T-5 thru T-12 standard fluorescent tubes and in the newer power compact (usually 4 pin) lamps such as the New generation Via Aqua Helios VHO. The new Helios come in a variety of sizes with outputs up to 180 watts out of lamps under 40 inches in length, which rival many Metal Halide (although not in depth penetration). These new higher output VHO fixtures/lamps have higher Kelvin and wattage output than previous generation VHO lamps/fixtures of similar size. These can be used for both marine reef applications as well as freshwater planted aquariums (these new VHOs are not scheduled for full release to the public until early 2008).



*PC; this stands for "Power Compact". These bulbs come in straight pin arrangements, square pin arrangements, and the ever more popular self ballasted standard incandescent fixture "screw in" type. These bulbs along with T-5s tend to be the most efficient.

A new Power Compact that in my opinion is awesome for planted aquariums and even for reef aquariums (as an addition to LED or Metal Halide) is the self ballasted SHO (Super high Output) PC bulbs. The 105 Watt SHO Daylight bulb puts out 6300 lumens and is comparable to a 525 watt Standard bulb (click on the picture for a link). This comes out to 60 lumens per watt, however this is a deceptive guide, as you can fit many more of these bulbs in a given space and also utilize more efficient reflectors.

The SHO can be mounted into your hood using a standard incandescent fixture or better,  hung as a pendant light using reflector similar to how Metal Halides are commonly installed

For more information about aquarium lighting, please see this URL from which this article is snipped in the resource box:




2017-04-10

Advice on Changing the AQUARIUM SALT WATER



Our aquarium
Photo by FromSandToGlass 

If left in the tank the waste materials will turn the water cloudy, or even yellow and can cause a buildup of algae on the aquarium's sides. Plus it can also prevent the fish and corals (if you have any in yours) from growing in the way that they should, along with causing them stress, and this in turn could lead to them becoming ill. So the question you should be asking yourself is not should I change the salt water in the aquarium, but when should it be changed?

When Is The Right Time To Change Aquarium Salt Water?
Ideally you shouldn't be leaving the tank until such a time (maybe several months) before you change the aquarium salt water and provide all the tropical fish and invertebrates within it, a new clean environment. The big problem is that many people choose to remove the tropical aquarium fish and invertebrates from the tank, and then clean out the water completely. Unfortunately this could do your tropical fish, invertebrates and the reef inside more harm than good.

Rather what one should be doing is change a small amount of the salt water on a regular basis, and keep the fish and invertebrates in the tank as you do it. Ideally the best ratio when it comes to changing the salt water is to remove about 1/3 of the water from the tank and replace with the same amount of water.

Simple Steps To Take When Changing Aquarium Salt Water
  1. First off you need to unplug every piece of electrical equipment, other than the light which is connected to the aquarium. The pumps and filters if left on, can actually overheat if they discover there is insufficient water in the tank. Also heater systems if left on when new water is added to the tank, may well cause the glass to crack (remember how much that tank initially cost and the price you will have to pay to replace it).
  2. Take an aquarium scrubber or scraper accessories and use this in order to clean the inside of the glass of the aquarium to help remove any buildup of algae or waste deposits that have come from the fish food on them. You need to do this very slowly and gently in order to prevent the fish species from becoming panicked.
  3. After scraping the glass you need to take out any plants within the tank and remove any dead or dying parts on them. Also stir up the gravel in the base (be careful as some fish like to bury themselves in it). As you do, bank some of it high towards the back corners of the aquarium and leave the levels lower in the middle and the front. Give the gravel time to settle and you will see waste deposits accumulate on top of the lower lying gravel.
  4. Now you are ready to siphon off some of the aquarium salt water (remember only to take away around a third of the tank's water and no more). As you siphon off the salt water using one of the specialist aquarium products that allows you to drain water from the tank at the same time as removing the water, try to remove as much of the debris that has accumulated as possible.
  5. Next you need to replace the water that has been removed and it is best to use aged rather than freshwater. This you can do by either letting it stand for some time or by adding certain salt mix products to it. You should only ever add aquarium salt to your water and never just sea salt. Also make sure that the temperature of the water you are putting into the tank is within 2 degrees Fahrenheit of the temperature of the water already in the tank. Then add some aquarium salt if you want.

Ultimate Secrets to Saltwater Aquarium Fish and Corals



Finally, all one now needs to do after changing the water in your tank is to plug back in and turn on the pieces of equipment that you originally turned off at the start. Also why not at this stage give the cover of your tank a cleaning and the light along with the outsides of your tank.



2017-03-21

PH Levels in The DISCUS TANK

Because it is imperative that discus fish have optimal water conditions, much has been written about this subject,  This is the plan put in place to insure proper PH water levels in our hatchery.

Allnut Enterprises' breeder, Nick Lockhart of Noblesville, Indiana, has many ingenious ideas as to how to accomplish things in the hatchery.  We begin our experiment with two matched pairs: two red melons, and two leopardskins.  They are lovely, friendly fish, and have been getting acclimated to our tanks and the aquarist since the end of June.

Initially, we begin to prepare for the new arrivals by setting up the tanks in this manner:  water was tested for PH and nitrite levels, and a proper ecosystem for active bacteria was begin by populating the tank with cichlids that Nick has been raising prior to the purchase of the discus.  When we felt that the water/bacteria levels were correct, we set up the meeting with the breeder, and made the trip to Bloomington, Indiana.

Upon arrival at home base with a travel time of about an hour and a half, we immediately begin to acclimate the pairs to their new home.  We were advised by the breeder to let them acclimate to the new tank water by "floating" the bags containing the fish for approximately one hour to equalize the temperatures, and to add a cup of water to the bag from the tank to equalize PH levels.

We did not, however, follow this procedure.  We took approximately six hours to acclimate by adding a cup of the tank water to the bag each hour, and keeping a close eye on the discus and PH levels, because they were stressed from the trip. A Hanna PH digital meter was used for testing, which gave us a very accurate reading.  As large changes in PH in a short period can shock the discus, we were careful in this approach.  Our water at the time matched the water in PH levels from the breeder closely.

Because the two pair were bought for breeding purposes, Nick was not comfortable with the PH level, which at that time was at approximately 7.5, high for optimal breeding conditions of 6.5-6.9.  What to do?

We had read that hanging a mesh bag of peat moss would help to lower the PH, but were not happy with the idea of having debris from the Peat in our tanks, which are kept scrupulously clean. We knew there had to be a better way to accomplish this goal.

Because Nick lives in town, and has city water, he uses a Reverse Osmosis filtering system to insure that the water is free of chemicals and suitable for the aquarium.  Knowing that Peat Moss will lower the PH in an aquarium system, and having a large bag left over from making culture for Grindal and White Worms, he took a 5 gallon pail, and drilled a series of holes around the perimeter of the bottom of the pail, using a 3/32" drill.  He then lined the bottom of the pail with a think layer of regular aquarium filter floss, and topped that off with a thick layer of Peat Moss, with the finished pail being about two-thirds full.



The outlet hose from the RO system was then allowed to drain into this pail.  Setting the pail over the top of the holding tank, the water slowly drained down through this medium into the holding tank.

Initial test of the recycled water showed a drop in PH to below the base of 7.0.  We have been adding the water to the discus tanks slowly through water changes so as to not shock the fish, and at our business meeting this weekend, Nick informed me that the PH levels in the discus tanks are now at approximately 6.6, which is the optimal level for breeding discus.

Cost of the project?  If you already are using an RO system, and have a holding tank, you will spend a twenty dollar bill getting the Peat Moss and filter floss.  Not bad, considering a breeding pair of dicus can run you $425 dollars!




2017-03-11

What Is a REFRACTOMETER?

As a marine aquarium keeper, it's your job to maintain an environment as close to what your organisms are accustomed to as possible. Unless your livestock came directly from Utah's Great Salt Lake, too much salinity in your water can be harmful. However, not enough salinity also can make your fish or coral uncomfortable. This is where a piece of equipment called a refractometer comes in handy.



What Is a Refractometer?
Because a refractometer can determine the salinity of your aquarium water, it is a tool worth having on hand, especially if you have a reef aquarium. A refractometer is a piece of equipment that measures the speed of light passing through a liquid, in this case through a sampling of seawater from your aquarium. The more particulates there are in the water, the slower light travels through the water. Depending on where the light falls on the refractometer's built-in scale determines the salinity in your marine aquarium. This also allows you to measure the specific gravity of your seawater. The specific gravity is the density of salt in your aquarium water as compared to fresh water.

The determination of salinity is based on the index of refraction. For example, if you use your refractometer in a vacuum, such as in outer space, the device's index scale should read 1.0000. The index for pure water is 1.3330. For seawater at 35 parts per thousand (ppt), the index reading should be 1.024-1.026. If your refractometer reads higher or lower than 1.024, then you may need to adjust the chemical composition of your aquarium water.

What to Look for When Purchasing a Refractometer
When buying a refractometer, make sure the one you choose is specifically for seawater use. Many refractometers on the market are manufactured only to measure the salinity of sodium chloride solutions. These types are referred to as brine or salt refractometers. They are good for measuring the saltiness of Aunt Sally's blue ribbon pickles, but, as you know, a marine aquarium contains more than just sodium chloride, such as trace elements, calcium, carbonates and magnesium. A seawater refractometer takes these into account.

You also want a refractometer that, once calibrated, automatically takes water temperature into consideration in the reading. Without this automatic temperature compensation (ATC), your reading can be misleading, since warmer water expands slightly, allowing light to pass through more easily. This means your tank of warm water may appear to have less salinity than is actually present.

Other handy aspects of a good refractometer include a dual scale that measures both specific gravity and parts per thousand, and an eyepiece you can adjust in order to clearly read the scale.
How to Read a Refractometer

First, open the cover to the refractometer's prism. Using a clean pipette, take a sample of aquarium water and place a drop or two onto the prism plate, then close the cover. Hold the refractometer to the light and look through the eyepiece, adjusting the eyepiece until you can clearly see the scale. One side of the scale measures the salinity of the water in parts per thousand, which for seawater should read 35 ppt. The other side of the scale lets you know the specific gravity, which is 1.024 for seawater.





As you look through the eyepiece, you will notice that the top part of the scale is blue, while the bottom portion of the scale looks white. Your reading should be taken at the spot where the blue and white meet on the scale.

For the serious marine aquarium person, a refractometer can be a great addition to your tool box, because you can receive more accurate readings than from the traditional hydrometer. But, the refractometer does need to be calibrated in order to give you an accurate reading. Follow manufacturer's instructions to properly calibrate your particular refractometer.



2017-02-21

Pros and Cons of Using Reverse OSMOSIS Systems

The term “reverse osmosis systems” may sound too scientific to you, but these are as common to everyday life as the water you drink. To put it simply, reverse osmosis (RO) systems used in households refer to purifying devices, which forcibly separate solutes from water with the use of a partially permeable membrane (filter) and water pressure. To decide whether you need one, you must first understand how it works as well as its pros and cons.

English: reverse osmosis device for auqarium w...
Reverse osmosis device for auqarium water treatment  (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Understanding reverse osmosis - In osmosis, a selectively permeable membrane divides a solution according to its solute concentration. The natural motion of a liquid solution (osmotic pressure) causes its molecules to pass through the membrane in the direction of low to high concentration.

By contrast, reverse osmosis systems cause the solution to flow from high to low concentration, preventing substances with larger molecules from coming through the membrane. Reverse osmosis systems also work differently in that they utilize external force.

Domestic uses of reverse osmosis (RO) systems - Various RO systems are not only used in healthcare (e.g., dialysis), manufacturing, and urban planning, but reverse osmosis is also used at home for drinking water filtration and aquarium maintenance. In developed countries, tap water goes through water purification systems that use reverse osmosis among other means of treating water. In many parts of the world, RO water treatment devices for domestic use are quickly rising in popularity, mostly through door-to-door sales and appliance store promotions.

Aside from potable water supply, RO systems are popular among aquarists, especially those who maintain a reef aquarium. If you plan to set up (or trade in) your freshwater fish-only tank for a reef aquarium in your home, then you should invest in good reverse osmosis systems. A reef aquarium has higher water chemistry requirements than a fish-only aquarium, especially in terms of salinity, so you need to use an RO system to simulate seawater. In addition, water supply to your home is chemically treated, and as such, it means trouble for the living things inside your tank. Substances can contaminate your reef tank’s delicate condition and encourage the growth of algae. Although the presence of algae in your tank is beneficial up to a certain point, having too many is bad in that algae compete with organisms in your tank for nutrients.  They are also unsightly.

Advantages and disadvantages - Reverse osmosis systems are chemical-free, so whether you’re buying a device for drinking water filtration or aquarium maintenance, this is their biggest advantage. Reverse osmosis doesn’t affect the smell and taste of water, doesn't require high maintenance, and doesn't use up too much power.



However, RO systems have low back pressure, so the volume of water that they need is also great.  Continued use will also quickly fill up your septic tank. RO systems are not “purifiers,” as they are only capable of filtering solutes but not killing bacteria. In addition, they may also filter out useful substances, such as calcium and magnesium.

Reverse Osmosis systems are relatively environment-friendly and efficient. However, RO systems for home use may not be as cost-effective and efficient as they usually are at industry level, so examine your needs first before making a decision.



2017-02-04

The Rudiments Of WATER CHEMISTRY

English: A relatively cheap electronic pH mete...
A relatively cheap electronic pH meter. 
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)



Most aquarists will happily debate water quality to the point of being obsessive. Water is, after all, the atmosphere on which your pets depend.

It isn't necessary to have a degree in chemistry to maintain a healthy aquarium, but you will need to do some water testing.

Axolotls are extremely sensitive to water quality. You must be prepared to test the water in your tank on a weekly basis to ensure your pet's continued good health.
With that in mind, there are some basic measurements you need to at least understand to some degree.

Acidity or Per Hydrogen (pH)
The "pH" sign for most people signals an assessment of acidity. When viewed as a scale, low numbers mean greater acidity and higher numbers indicate "basic" or alkaline water.

The actual measurement is the balance in the water between hydrogen (H+) and hydroxide (OH) ions. Axolotls are freshwater creatures, so they need a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5.

With this measurement, it's easy to confuse terms. KH refers to alkalinity, which is not the same thing as "alkaline."

Alkalinity is a description of the water's ability to neutralize and absorb acid, thereby acting as a "buffer." If the KH level in water is high, there won't be many changes in the pH level, and the water will be more stable.

Specific Gravity (sg)
In its most simple terms, specific gravity measures the salinity of water. It is taken with a hydrometer or a refractometer. Since axolotl are freshwater creatures, the specific gravity of their water should be around 1.0000.
Hard vs. Soft Water
Axolotls prefer slightly hard water. If you have limescale in your cookware or around your pipes, you have hard water.

If your axolotl is living in water that is too soft, its color will fade, especially the shade of the gills. This indicates your pet is suffering from temporary anemia. You will need to add salts to the water to increase the hardness.

Since these equations can be confusing, it's best to find out in advance if the water in your area is hard or soft and consult with an experienced aquarist about the best corrective measures to test.
The variance in water quality in this regard can be so extensive, there is no one set formula to "fix" the measurement. In general, however, soft water tends to be more acidic and hard water is more alkaline in terms of pH.



2017-01-25

The Water Parameters For DISCUS FISH

The Amazon River is full of rooting vegetation which is a direct cause of the acid nature of the water.

Before you choose your Discus you must have the water parameters correct or matching closely to the place of where you are to buy your discus Fish.

Unless you are lucky enough to live in a place where the natural tap water is Acid and Soft, you will need the use of a Reverse Osmosis filter and a HMA filter.

The RO filter will remove 99.9% of everything in the water, making the Ph around 6.2 depending on where you live. The HMA filter will remove the heavy metals and the Chlorine, which are extremely harmful to discus. The HMA will not alter the Ph which is ideal, because we can use that to blend with the RO water to make the correct Ph.

Now if you are breeding you will need the Ph to be between 6.2 and 6.5. If you are just keeping discus say in a show tank you will need the Ph between 6.7 and 7.0. With the hardness between 3 and 5GH.

I like to use 'Indian Almond Leaves' in all my discus tanks as I find it gives a natural additive to the water similar to liquids you can buy which claim to add chemicals to the water that will give you that Amazon river consistency. The top breeders in the far east use these leaves. I always favour the natural approach every time!

Temperature should be 29 degrees centigrade.

Do your water changes regularly, the often the better, and you will not go far wrong!





2017-01-20

Balancing CO2 in the PLANTED AQUARIUM

Carbon dioxide is a crucial element of photosynthesis where plants rearrange molecules of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen to build basic sugar structures, which provide them and the rest of the food chain with energy. The right balance of carbon dioxide is important for plant growth and the continued health of your plants.

A Co2 deficiency is visible in the form of slower plant growth and a slow yet continuous rise in water pH. In many species of plants you will also notice calcium deposits on leaves, turning them a pale yellow or white depending on the severity of the condition. For many more demanding plants it is important to add additional carbon dioxide to the water as well as keeping other conditions favourable. However, too much carbon dioxide in the water can be detrimental to other aquatic life, striking a balance between the amount of oxygen and carbon dioxide is important.

In aquariums which do not contain live aquarium plants shortages of oxygen are one of the biggest problems, which can in part be corrected with air-stones which aim to offer better aeration. In the presence of excessive Co2 fish will spend a lot of time at the surface of the water, increased gilling is visibly noticeable and it seems as if the fish are struggling to breathe. With too much Co2 the fish will suffer and without enough, the plants will instead. To maintain balanced water chemistry carry out regular water changes and be proactive to changes in the aquarium environment.

It may be necessary to add additional Co2 to the aquarium when growing aquatic plants, particularly if you are more experienced an have chosen to use more exotic species. There are a variety of options available if you decide to use carbon dioxide injections in the aquarium, from commercial systems to doing it yourself. If you keep plants with high demands of carbon dioxide, the larger the plants become the greater their need will be.




Maintaining a healthy balance where water chemistry is concerned requires attention to the aquariums and the inhabitants. Problems with a lack or macronutrients become visible in plants quickly, as do problems with an overload or deficiency of carbon dioxide. If possible it is often helpful to use water testing kits to get a general feel of what is in your water and if there is anything that you could change to the benefit of the aquarium.