Fact Sheet: LIPSTICK CHARACIN - Moenkhausia cosmops

Lipstick Characin - Moenkhausia cosmops

Moenkhausia cosmops 

Natural Range 

The upper basins of the rivers Rio Paraguai and Rio Tapajos in Brazil 

Maximum Size and Longevity 

Maximum length reported for Moenkhausia cosmops 

is about 6 cm and life span of 3-5 years. 

Water Quality 

 · Temperature: 24°C - 26°C. 

 · pH: 6.0—7.0 

 · General Hardness: 30—150 ppm. 

Feeding 

Lipstick characins are omnivorous and will readily take most types of aquarium foods. They will accept flake and pellet and also benefit from most frozen foods. We recommend AI Naturals Range Frozen Brine Shrimp, Krill and Tropical Mix for these fish. Ideally, add live foods such as Black worms and Daphnia to their diet as well. 

Compatibility 

Best kept in schools (minimum 5 in the group). Different characin species can generally be kept together with no problems. Lipsticks will also mix readily with a wide range of species and are generally an ideal community fish. It is not a good idea to mix them with species that grow very large as predation can be a factor due to their smaller size. Beware of elongated fins on some species as they can be nipped. Note: as they are omnivorous, they can be prone to eating aquatic plants. 

Colour and Varieties 

The name cosmops in ancient Greek means “with a decorated face” and the Lipstick characin certainlyhas a striking one, with red lips, blue eye shadow and a shimmery scale pattern it’s a very attractive little characin. Note: Being new to science only one variant is known to exist. 

Sexing 

This species, like many in its genus, shows no sexual dimorphism at all. This makes sexing of the fish difficult. Best to set up a breeding program with small schools.

General Information 

This species has only recently been described scientifically and is considered to be a close relative of the well known species Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae (Red eye tetra) and M oligolepis (Glass tetra). 

Lipstick characin have only recently (within the last 4 years) started to be imported into the fish keeping hobby and have had great success. Being unique they have fitted in well with many people’s community tanks. 

Given a varied and well balanced diet with enough tank space to openly school, looking after the Lipstick characin is something any fish hobbyist can do. 

For more Care Sheets like this, visit our website: aquariumindustries.com.au

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Fact Sheet - ZEBRA DANIO (Brachydanio rerio or Danio rerio)

Zebra Danios - Photo: Wikimedia

The Zebra Danio or Zebra Fish, Brachydanio rerio or Danio rerio is a very popular aquarium fish which comes from Eastern India and Bangladesh.

This fish is often regarded as a cool water fish, but in fact, can survive in water of a very wide range of temperatures. I have heard reports of them surviving through the winter with pond temperatures as low as 4C (3S F). This is the temperature water gets under ice. However, I do not recommend them as a pond fish for these conditions. At the other extreme, I have read that they can survive very high temperatures. Again, I would not suggest very high temperatures for it.

In practice, the Zebra Danio is happy in either cold water or tropical aquariums.

Leopard Danios

The Leopard Danio is sometimes given the scientific name Brachydanio frankei or Danio frankei but is probably not a true species, but rather a variation of the Zebra Danio. It crosses readily with the Zebra Danio producing fertile young. Care of these two fish is identical. The striped coloration appears to act as a dominant single gene to the spotted pattern of the Leopard fish.

Note that hybrids can occur within the genus, but they are normally sterile.

Companions

The Zebra Fish grows to about 2 inches (5cm) long so it is a small fish. It is usually peaceful, but I have observed enough aggression to class it as slightly aggressive, rather than peaceful. It is a strongly schooling fish and, as with most schooling fish, they tend to be more likely to be aggressive if there is less than a school. However, I have known a school of Zebra Fish attacks a Siamese Fighting Fish so I would avoid slow moving fish with long fins in with Zebra Fish.

Suitable companions for the Zebra Fish include White Cloud Mountain Minnows, most tetras, including Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Glass Bloodfin Tetras, Emperor Tetras, Black Widow Tetras, small Goldfish and other similar sized fish.

I would avoid slow moving, long finned fish like Guppies, Endlers Guppies and Siamese Fighting Fish.

Water

The Zebra Fish is reasonably flexible in its water preferences, but I suggest neutral to slightly alkaline water. The hardness does not seem to be critical. They do not like ammonia or nitrites, so the water should be kept clean and well filtered.

Food

The Zebra Fish is very easily fed. They are usually the first fish to come to the top to eat. It is an omnivore and will eat any normal fish food. They usually eat at the surface but are happy enough feeding at any level of the aquarium. Catching the Zebra Fish

If you can catch your fish before they are disturbed, the Zebra Fish is very easy to catch. They will swim into the net. However, once they are disturbed they are extremely good at evading capture. The horizontal stripes combined with its speed of swimming make seeing it more difficult.

Counting

Occasionally an aquarium shop will have a competition to guess the number of fish in an aquarium on display. The fish chosen is usually the Zebra Fish because they are very difficult to count.

Breeding

The Zebra Fish is easily conditioned because they eat so readily. Live daphnia or mosquito larvae (wrigglers) are good. If these are not available, there are plenty of good dry and frozen foods. I use frozen blood worms.

It is an easily bred egg scatterer. They are also avid egg eaters. One common way of protecting the eggs is to have the water shallow with marbles or small rounded pebbles on the bottom. Most of the eggs will fall between the stones or marbles and have a chance of hatching.

Increasing the temperature a few degrees will often stimulate spawning. A temperature of about 26 C (78 F) is suitable for spawning the Zebra Fish. Eggs can hatch in a day. One female will produce between 200 and 800 eggs, so the eggs and the fry that hatch from them are small.

The natural food of the fry is protozoans (Infusoria) in the water. This can be supplemented with commercial fry food. Live food is very good including screened daphnia or newly hatched brine shrimp.

By Steve Challis - [http://www.bettatrading.com.au]  Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: NIGER TETRA - Big-Scaled African Characin - Arnoldichthy spilopterus

Family: Characidae

Species: Arnoldichthy spilopterus – Niger Tetra – Big-Scaled African Characin

Size: 7cm (2 three quarter inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Streams in Nigeria

Remarks: It needs plenty of swimming space and plants in which to hide.

Other Names: Arnold’s Red-eye Characin, Red-eye Characin, Red-eye Tetra

Comments: Arnoldichthy spilopterus The lower half of the body is silvery blue-green, shading to a pale belly. The dorsal fin has a white-edged dark blotch, and the caudal fin is grayish silver. Males have an orange and black anal fin and yellowish pelvic fins. Females anal fins have a dark blotch

Wikipedia: The Arnoldichthys spilopterus is kept as an aquarium fish. It is the only member of its genus. It is considered to be a freshwater species that are found in a pelagic range within a tropical climate. The average length of the Arnoldichthys spilopterus as an unsexed male is about 9.6 centimeters or about 3.7 inches. Their diet consists of worms, insects, and crustaceans. When kept in an aquarium for breeding, a female can lay about 1,000 eggs. They can hatch at the time of 30-34 hours. If kept in an aquarium, it is recommended to keep a group of at least five of this species together. The minimum size of an aquarium that is adequate for this species is about 100 centimeters.

This species is considered to be vulnerable to becoming an endangered species. In Nigeria, this species is found in less than ten different areas. Another influence that affects the population of this species in its natural state is oil exploration, deforestation, and pollution. There is also a population trend that is decreasing due to the fish trade that the Arnoldichthys spilopterus has become a part of for the aquatic system and commerce.

By Gary Bolton This fish comes from the “Tropical Fish” family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: MOLLY FISH - Poecilia sp.

Molly
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Molly is actually more than one species. This fact sheet is an attempt to give information common to most of the ones frequently kept in aquariums. One of the most popular species of Molly is the Sailfin Molly, Poecilia latipinna. Another common Molly is Poecilia sphenops. The Molly is in the same genus as the Guppy, Poecilia reticulata. The Molly tends to be bigger than the Guppy. Mollies normally grow to about 4 inches (10cm), but under very good conditions will grow bigger than this. Mollies in the Brisbane River are reported to reach 7 Inches (18cm).

Water Conditions

The Molly is a salt loving tropical fish. They do not do well in water that is too pure in the sense that it is lacking in salt. The Molly will even live in sea water, and is sometimes added to marine aquariums. A suitable temperature is 24 degrees C (75 degrees F). They prefer alkaline water, and like plenty of hardness.

Food

The Molly is an omnivore with a preference for vegetable matter. They will relish live food like daphnia and mosquito larvae like most fish, but also eat soft algae. A normal fish food is suitable, and some people like to supplement this with algae wafers or spirulina flakes.

Companions

The Molly can be kept as a community fish as long as you choose suitable companions. Mollies are a little bigger than many of the small fish often kept together. While I have kept Mollies with Neon Tetras they are not ideal companions. This is not so much the size difference as the different water preferences. Mollies are generally peaceful fish, but I would avoid putting them with Siamese FightingFish. I know of one case where two male Mollies were kept with a male Siamese Fighting Fish and attempted to mate with it. Eventually the Mollies harried the poor fighting fish to death.

Some suitable companions for Mollies are Glass Bloodfin Tetras, Emperor Tetras, Black Widow Tetras, Peppered Catfish, Swordtails and Platies.

Pest Fish

Any fish released or that gets away and gets into natural waterways is a potential hazard to the native fish of the habitat. In some parts of Queensland Mollies are becoming a problem. In Queensland, Mollies can legally be kept in aquariums, but not in situations where they can get into natural waterways.

By Steve Challis Steve Challis has many other fish fact sheets and other articles at http://www.bettatrading.com.au. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: DWARF GOURAMI - Colisa lalia

(Original Title: Keeping the Beautiful Dwarf Gourami)

Female and male dwarf gouramis (Colisa lalia) showing sexual dimorphism.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Keeping the Dwarf Gourami

The scientific name usually used for the Dwarf Gourami is Colisa lalia. It is native to India, Bangladesh and Pakistan, and possibly to Myanmar, Nepal and Borneo. It is found in the tributaries of the Ganges and Brahmaputra rivers, and is found in slow moving streams and lakes, and can grow in flooded rice fields.

It has been introduced to Colombia, Singapore, Taiwan and Florida in the United States of America. It is probably established in these countries.

It has also been introduced to The Philippines and Canada, but I do not know if it is established in these two countries.

Size

As its name suggests this is one of the smaller gouramis. Although 10 centimetres (4 inches) is reported as a maximum size for this fish, most of the ones I see are more like 5 centimetres (2 inches) long. Water Conditions The normally recommended temperature range for this fish is 25 - 28 degrees C (77-83 degrees F). The Dwarf Gourami comes from the tropics, and is basically a tropical fish. However, part of its range includes waterways in the mountainous areas of India, and it has been reported in Nepal which is not a hot country. The places it has been introduced to are mainly tropical, but it is surviving in the wild in Florida where it has apparently escaped from fish farms. The climate of Florida is not tropical although it certainly does not get as cold as most of the United States. They have been bred outside in Germany (In the summer). A single specimen survived in a garden pond in the Adelaide Hills town of Mount Barker right through the winter. These observations suggest that at least some of this fish species have better cold tolerance than is generally recognised.

A pH of between 6.0 and 7.5; with a hardness of no more than about 19 dH is suitable for maintaining the adults.

Nitrite

The Dwarf Gourami seems to be particularly susceptible to nitrites. A good filter should be used to prevent the build up of nitrites, and the general level of cleanliness should be high. However, this fish comes from sluggish waterways and should not have turbulence in all parts of the tank.

Plants

It comes from water with a lot of plants, so it should be kept in well planted aquariums.

Food

Dwarf Gouramis are omnivores, and they are easy to feed with normal fish foods. These should be supplemented with live or frozen foods like Blood worms or Daphnia. It is one of the types of fish that is capable of shooting water droplets at insects above the water and knocking them into the water.

Breathing

The Dwarf Gourami is a labyrinth fish and can breathe air as well as water. This allows them to survive in still water which can be low in Oxygen. My own observations suggest that this fish cannot get all its Oxygen requirements from the air, and does need some dissolved Oxygen in the water.

Companions

The Dwarf Gourami is a peaceful fish and can be kept with most of the tetras and similar fish. I would avoid the smallest tetras like the Neon Tetra, and also any fin nipping fish.

I would not recommend it as a companion for any of the other Gouramis, nor for Siamese fighting fish or Paradise fish. I would also not put them with any of the livebearers like Guppies, and also not with Australian native fish like the Murray Cod. The reason for the exclusions in this paragraph is to reduce the possibility of transmission of Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus.

By Steve Challis Steve Challis has many other fish fact sheets and other articles on http://www.bettatrading.com.au, including one article giving information about the Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus at http://www.bettatrading.com.au/Dwarf-Gourami-Fact-Sheet.php. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: BLACK STRIPE DWARF CICHLID

Black Stripe Dwarf Cichlid

Black Stripe Dwarf Cichlid - Taeniacara candidi - Wikipedia

• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Tank Conditions: 72-86°F; pH 6.0-7.0;
• KH 2-15 
• Max. Size In Aquarium: Up to 3"
• Color Form: Black 
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Diet:  Carnivore 
• Origin: Farm Raised, South America 

The Taeniacara candidi is known in the hobby as the Black Stripe Dwarf Cichlid, and originates within the Amazon Basin of South America. The bodies of these fish are extremely slender and elongated, and have a dark stripe that runs horizontally from the nose to the base of the tail. Another distinguishing feature is its unusually low dorsal fin. 

The Black Stripe Dwarf Cichlid should be kept in a tank that is 30 gallons minimum, with densely planted groupings. They require plenty of open swimming areas but also need hiding places. A fine gravel to sand substrate is recommended. Although a semiaggressive fish, they are also timid and should not be housed with large, aggressive fish. They require good water conditions, and regular water changes are a must. 

The Black Stripe Dwarf Cichlid is an egg layer that prefers to spawn on the underside of leaves or pieces of driftwood. Once the female has laid her eggs, the male will follow to fertilize them. After fertilization, the male then leaves the brood for the female to tend to.

The fry will be free swimming within seven to ten days, at which time they should be fed newly hatched brine shrimp. They are a fast growing species, and the fry will reach sexual maturity in about five months. 

The Black Stripe Dwarf Cichlid is a carnivore, and will consume a wide variety of foods. Freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, flake food, and both frozen and live brine shrimp and worms will make excellent food for these fish.  Approximate Purchase Size: 1" to 1-1/2"

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Fact Sheet: PLATY FISH - Xiphophorus maculatus and Xiphophorus variatus

(Original Title: Platy Fish Fact Sheet)

Photo by Allie_Caulfield

There are two species of Platy, Xiphophorus maculatus, and Xiphophorus variatus. Platys are closely related to Swordtails and Xiphophorus helleri, and Xiphophorus maculatus will freely interbreed with Swordtails. The interfertility of Xiphophorus variatus with the others two species may be less, but hybrids can occur. The Platies and Swordtails we buy are often not of pure species.

All three species come from Central America. Xiphophorus variatus, commonly called the Variatus Platy, appears to be able withstand slightly colder conditions than the other two species, and may be more suitable for an unheated tank in a reasonably warm house than the other species, but all are basically tropical fish. Platies tend to be shorter but thicker than Swordtails.

Water Conditions

The platy is a tropical fish and I recommend a temperature of 24 degrees C (75 degrees F). They prefer harder water with some salt in it although they are quite adaptable. The platy appears to be better able to survive higher Nitrite (NO2) levels than most fish, but these should normally be avoided for all fish.

Food

The Platy is an omnivore and will eat some algae as well as live food including Mosquito larvae (wrigglers) and Daphnia. They do well on all normal fish foods.

Companions

The Platy is a peaceful fish and is a good fish for a community tank of small peaceful fish. The Platy lacks the long fins of the Guppy and is a faster swimmer, so its companions can include some of the slightly aggressive fish that you would not put with Guppies. You need to avoid any large, aggressive or predatory fish.

Suitable companions include Rummy Nose Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras, Guppies, Endlers Guppies, Neon Tetras, Peppered Catfish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows and Zebra Danios. Most of these fish will eat baby Platies.

Pest Fish

Never release your pet fish or put them in the position of being accidentally released. The Platy has the potential to seriously damage fragile ecosystems.

By Steve Challis Steve Challis has articles on a huge range of subjects at http://www.bettatrading.com.au including Fish Fact Sheets like the Guppy Fact Sheet at http://www.bettatrading.com.au/Guppy-Fact-Sheet.php. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: PEARL GOURAMI - Trichogaster leeri

(Original title: Keeping the Pearl Gourami in Aquariums)

Photo by h080

The Pearl Gourami, Trichogaster leeri, is also called the Lace Gourami, Diamond Gourami and the Mosaic Gourami, and sometimes the Red Breasted Gourami. It is native to Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. It has been introduced to Colombia, The Philippines and Taiwan.

Length and Longevity

It can grow to about 12 centimetres (4 1/2 inches) long. It will live for up to 8 years.

Water Conditions

This fish comes from tropical countries, and it needs warm water. A temperature of between 24 and 28 degrees C (75- 83 degrees F) is suitable. They come from soft acid water, but the adults are moderately adaptable and a pH of between 6.0 and 7.5 with a dH of up to 19 is all right for maintaining them.

Plants

This fish comes from still or sluggishly moving water bodies with a lot of plants in, so at least part of their aquarium needs to have a lot of plants. Ideally these should include floating plants.

Breathing

The Pearl Gourami is a labyrinth fish and can breathe air as well as water, so it needs access to the air. It is better if the air is of a similar temperature to the water and is humid, so the tank should be well covered.

Food

This fish is an easily fed omnivore. It will eat all common fish foods. Its diet should include foods of both animal origin like live or frozen bloodworms, daphnia or brine shrimp, and also things a vegetable origin like algae wafers, lettuce or lightly cooked zucchini.

Hydra

Although the most popular fish for eating Hydra is the Blue Gourami, Pearl Gouramis also eat it readily. They are smaller and more peaceful than Blue Gouramis and are sometimes kept in tanks as small as 60 Litres (15 US gallons), so there are circumstances where the Pearl Gourami would be the fish of choice to get rid of hydra.

Bruising

The Pearl Gourami has a soft body and care needs to be taken when handling this fish.

Companions

It is a very peaceful fish which is often, but not always, shy. It can safely be put with fish smaller than itself although I would not put it with fish as small as Neon Tetras, but most of the more peaceful tetras are suitable companions as well as all the corydoras catfish like the Bronze Catfish.

You need to avoid fish that nip fins or are large and aggressive.

By Steve Challis Steve Challis has many other fish fact sheets and other articles on http://www.bettatrading.com.au including pictures and breeding information about the Pearl Gourami at http://www.bettatrading.com.au/Pearl-Gourami-Fact-Sheet.php. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: HARLEQUIN RASBORA - Trigonostigma heteromorpha

(Original title: Harlequin Rasbora Fact Sheet)

Harlequin rasbora, Trigonostigma heteromorpha (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A Peaceful and Delightful Fish

I have grown up with the idea that this delightful fish's scientific name was Rasbora heteromorpha. This used to be correct, with the heteromorpha referring to the fact that this fish is not a typical Rasbora. Now the name has been changed to Trigonostigma heteromorpha because of the several differences between the Harlequin Rasbora and the other Rasboras.

It is also called the "Rasbora", the Harlequin and the Red Rasbora.

It is native to Singapore, Malaysia, Sumatra and parts of Thailand. It is found in small streams, often ones coming from peat bogs where the water is stained brown with tannins. The water tends to be soft, acidic and low in total salts. This is one of the little fish that can be found in the small ditches in Singapore.

Although I have seen reports of Harlequin Rasboras reaching nearly 2 inches (5cm) nearly all are less than this. They will live for about 6 years,

Water Conditions

The Harlequin Rasbora is a tropical fish and temperatures of between 21 degrees C (70 degrees F) and 28 degrees C (85 degrees F) are suitable. I recommend a temperature setting of 24 degrees C (75 degrees F) for a mixed tank including this fish Although the water in its native habitat tends to be soft, acidic and low in salts, it is able to adapt to living in a wide range of water conditions, and can live happily in neutral water somewhat harder than it is used to.

Live plants are a very good idea with the Harlequin Rasbora.

Companions

The Harlequin Rasbora is very much a schooling fish and a reasonable sized group should be kept. A school of a dozen Harlequin Rasboras is a beautiful and striking sight. Although it is an Asian fish of a different group, its characteristics are similar to many of the small South American tetras.

I would avoid large or very aggressive fish, but the Harlequin Rasbora is an ideal fish for a community tank of small fish. Suitable companion species are Lemon Tetras, Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Emperor Tetras, Head and Tail Light Tetras, Glowlight Tetras, Corydoras Catfish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows and Zebra Danios.

Breeding

One of the reasons it was removed from the Rasbora genus was its breeding behaviour. The other Rasboras are egg scatterers while the Harlequin Rasbora attaches its eggs to the underside of leaves, turning upside down to do it.

In contrast to the ease of keeping the Harlequin Rasbora, the conditions for breeding need to mimic the natural habitat of this fish fairly well. A temperature of 28 degrees C (82 degrees F) is suitable. Soft, acidic water is essential; a ph of 6 with hardness less than 3 degrees is alright. A high level of tannins in the water is also recommended.

By Steve Challis Steve Challis has articles on a wide range of subjects at http://www.bettatrading.com.au. These include fact sheets about all the species of fish listed in this article, as well as more general things about fish like the explanation of crude protein at http://www.bettatrading.com.au/Crude-Protein.php. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: SCISSORTAIL RASBORA - Rasbora trilineata

(Original: Scissortail Rasbora Fact Sheet)

Three-lined rasbora Rasbora trilineata (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Scissortail Rasbora, Rasbora trilineata, is also called the Scissortail Shark, and simply the Scissortail. Alternative scientific names are Rasbora calliura and Rasbora stigmatura. It is not shark like in its behavior and only vaguely shark like in its appearance. It grows to about 4 inches (10cm). It is fairly peaceful and is suitable for a mixed collection of small fish.

The Scissortail Rasbora comes from South Eastern Asia, including Malaysia and Indonesia.

This fish has attractive black and white markings on its tail, and the movement of these as the fish swims reminds some people of the action of Scissor blades.

Water Conditions

The Scissortail Rasbora comes from soft acidic waters and these are the ideal conditions for it in an aquarium. They will adapt to neutral pH (7) and some hardness in the water. 24 degrees C (75 degrees F) is a suitable temperature. In the wild, the Scissortail Rasbora often inhabits flowing water, as in a river or stream. Some water movement from a filter in the aquarium is beneficial.

Food

The Scissortail Rasbora is an omnivore. It will eat any normal fish food and loves live food like mosquito larvae and daphnia. Frozen blood worms and frozen brine shrimp are also gobbled up eagerly.

Companions

The Scissortail Rasbora likes conditions similar to the preferred conditions of many of the South American Tetras.

Some suitable companions are Pristella Tetras, Paraguay Tetras, Rummy Nose Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras, Buenos Aries Tetras, Black Widow Tetras, Emperor Tetras, Head and Tail Light Tetras, Glowlight Tetras, Corydoras Catfish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows and Zebra Danios.

The Scissortail Rasbora can also be kept with Swordtails, Glass Bloodfin Tetras, Guppies, Endlers Guppies and Mollies, but the water conditions for a mixture like this would be a compromise between the ideal conditions for these different fish and would not be ideal for any of them.

Breeding

The Scissortail Rasbora is not a very easy fish to breed. The females tend to be a little larger than the males and will be plumper when ready to breed. Conditioning the fish with black worms or other rich food like frozen blood worms is a good idea.

The breeding tank needs to have soft, acid water. A lowered water level may also help stimulate breeding. Cleanliness is very important for this species and the addition of an anti fungus medication may help prevent the eggs from getting infected.

The Scissortail Rasbora will eat its own eggs and babies and the parents should be removed after spawning.

The eggs will hatch in 24 hours and will take small live food like the finest screened Daphnia as soon as the egg yolk is fully absorbed.

By Steve Challis Steve Challis has articles on a diverse range of subjects at http://www.bettatrading.com.au. A relative of the Scissortail is the Harlequin. A fact sheet about this fish is at http://www.bettatrading.com.au/Harlequin-Rasbora-Fact-Sheet.php. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: PENGUIN TETRA - Thayeria boehlkei and T. obliqua

The Penguin Tetra is actually two related species, Thayeria boehlkei and Thayeria obliqua. The easily seen differences between these species are quite small. Both species have a tendency to swim in a tail down position, but this is more pronounced in Thayeria obliqua. Thayeria obliqua has a shorter black line than Thayeria boehlkei, and Thayeria obliqua grows a little bigger although these are both small fish.

Penguin Tetra (Thayeria boehlkei) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The species most often available in aquarium shops is Thayeria boehlkei. Some people prefer to keep the name Penguin Tetra for Thayeria obliqua and call Thayeria boehlkei the False Penguin Tetra. There are several other common names for this fish, some of them, like Penguinfish, Penguin Fish, etc are also based on its perceived resemblance to a penguin, while others like Short Striped Thayeria do not. In Australia, it is often sold as a Hockey Stick Tetra. Certainly the shape of the prominent black line is reminiscent of the shape of a hockey stick.

Thayeria boehlkei grows to about one and a half inches (4cm) long while Thayeria obliqua can get a little bit bigger. They come from the Amazon River and its tributaries in Brazil and Peru, preferring slow moving stretches with a lot of plants.

Water conditions

The Penguin Tetra is actually two related species, Thayeria boehlkei and Thayeria obliqua. The easily seen differences between these species are quite small. is a tropical fish. 24 degrees C (75 degrees F) is a suitable temperature to set your thermostat. The water they are used to in the wild is soft and acid, but in captivity they will adjust to neutral pH and some hardness. The penguin Tetra does better in clean water and care needs to be taken with the water quality. They are sensitive to Ammonia, Nitrite and excessive concentrations of Nitrate.

Food

Like many tetras, the Penguin Tetra is an easily fed omnivore. It will eat all normal aquarium foods, but will enjoy some live food like mosquito larvae and Daphnia. Frozen foods, including frozen blood worms are also appreciated.

Companions

The Penguin Tetra is a peaceful schooling fish. I suggest a minimum of four, and preferably more be kept together. They can be kept with most small, reasonable peaceful fish, including: Red Eye Tetras, Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Silvertip Tetras, Gold Barbs, Cherry Barbs, Pristella Tetras, Rummy Nose Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras, Scissortail Rasboras, Lemon Tetras, Emperor Tetras, Head and Tail Light Tetras, Glass Bloodfin Tetras, Swordtails, Platies, Mollies, Zebra Danios, Glowlight Tetras, White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Black Widow Tetras, Rosy Barbs, Tiger Barbs, Paraguay Tetras, Buenos Aires Tetras and Colombian Tetras, as well as the Corydoras catfish like the Peppered Catfish.

A school of Penguin Tetras can usually even be kept with slow long finned fish like Siamese Fighting Fish, Guppies and Endlers Guppies.

Sexing

There is not much difference between the sexes of the Penguin Tetra, but when in breeding condition, the females get a rounder belly.

Breeding

Thayeria boehlkei is the Penguin Tetra most likely to be available in shops and this fish is reasonably easy to breed. I suggest a water level lowered to about 6 inches (15cm) acidic and very soft water with a temperature of about 27 degrees C (81 degrees F). There should be fine leaved, bushy plants in the breeding tank.

The Penguin Tetra is a prolific breeder in the sense of producing a lot of eggs. A female of this little fish with a very well rounded belly can produce as many as 3000 eggs. These are very small. The male produces a large amount of sperm to try to fertilize all these eggs, and this can contribute to fouling the water. Partial water changes are recommended to maintain the high quality of water that the fry need. The addition of an aquarium fungicide is recommended to help protect the eggs from fungus early on. The eggs should hatch in as little as 12-18 hours. The babies are very small, and need protozoa (infusoria) at first.

Pest Fish

Although the Penguin Tetra is a delight in an aquarium, as with all pets, do not allow them to get into ecosystems they are not native to. Aquarist are frequently blamed for this, and there is no doubt that there are cases of accidental, or deliberate, release of fish by aquarists, but my own research suggests that the worst culprits for this historically have been governments and their departments.

By Steve Challis Steve Challis has many other fish fact sheets and other articles on http://www.bettatrading.com.au. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: PEPPERED CATFISH - Corydoras paleatus

(Original Title: Peppered Catfish Fact Sheet)

Photo by h080

The Peppered Catfish, Corydoras paleatus is also called Peppered Cory, Peppered Corydoras, and Peppered Cory Cat. This peaceful fish is a harmless scavenger. The only fish it eats are ones already dead. It is an omnivore and will eat most types of food. By nature it is a bottom feeding fish but it will eat at the surface at times. This fish comes from the warmer parts of South America.

In an aquarium this fish will rarely get longer than two and a half inches (six centimetres) although in larger water bodies it has been known to get close to four inches (ten centimetres.)

The Peppered Catfish is a tropical fish although its low temperature tolerance is much better than most tropicals. It does not seem to be able to take high temperatures well, and could be in trouble if the water temperature gets over thirty degrees C (eighty five degrees F.). In a normal house it can be kept without a heater, but I would not recommend it as a pond fish except in areas which never get cold weather. Certainly not anywhere in South Australia

Water

The Peppered Catfish is not very fussy about its water chemistry. I would suggest a Ph of 7 (Neutral), definitely avoiding extremes of acidity or alkalinity. The hardness of the water does not seem to matter to this versatile fish. A clean tank is definitely better than a dirty one. Make sure the water you use for your fish has had the Chlorine or Chloramine removed before it is added to the aquarium with your fish.

Breathing

Like many Corydoras Catfish, the Peppered Catfish can swallow air and extract the oxygen with its intestines. It is normal to occasionally see a Corydoras Catfish suddenly shoot to the surface where it presumably takes a quick gulp of air, and returning to the bottom. If it does this a lot, it can be an indication of something wrong, such as the aquarium being short of Oxygen.

Companions

The Peppered Catfish can be kept without others of its kind, but does interact if given a chance. Some people recommend six in a tank together, but this would only be practical in a larger tank. There are many other fish which are suitable companions for this catfish. I would avoid extremely aggressive fish and very large ones, but most common aquarium fish should be all right. This includes all the Tetras, nearly all the Barbs, Danios, White Clouds, peaceful dwarf cichlids, Angel Fish, Discus, Fighting Fish, Australian Rainbow Fish, other Corydoras Catfish, most loaches and Goldfish.

Uses

Apart from its interest and beauty in its own right the Peppered Catfish is often kept as a scavenger. It is one of the fish that can be used as a scavenger in either tropical or coldwater aquariums (As long as they are not too cold!) They will eat uneaten food on the bottom, but not fish waste. Also, it is always important not to overfeed your fish, even with an efficient scavenger in the tank. They are not specialized for eating algae and do not do the job of an algae eating fish like a Bristle nose catfish.

Breeding

Peppered Catfish are sometimes stimulated to spawn by a drop in temperature. It has been reported that a simultaneous drop in barometric pressure helps. It is a good idea to condition the potential breeders with meaty foods including things like Earthworms, Tubifex Worms or Daphnia. One male and one female is the minimum requirement for breeding. They are not communal breeders requiring a school to breed, but some people prefer two or three males for one female.

The female will clean surfaces such as a section of the aquarium glass or a leaf of a plant. The male may rub against the female's head. She will lay her eggs into a basket made with her fins, and the male will fertilize them. The female will attach the eggs to places she has cleaned. After a while the process is repeated and continues until the female has laid all her eggs. This can be over two hundred.

The eggs should hatch in about six days. Well fed Peppered Catfish do not usually eat their babies. At first the babies will eat mainly the protozoan organisms in the tank, but will soon be able to eat fry foods.

By Steve Challis Steve Challis has many other fish fact sheets and other articles on http://www.bettatrading.com.au Article Source: EzineArticles

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