AQUARIUM FISH HEALTH: Dealing With COTTON MOUTH DISEASE (Mouth Fungus)

Cotton Mouth disease also knows as Mouth Fungus is a disease your fish can get and it needs to be dealt with quickly. Cotton Mouth disease is not as common as the white spot disease, but, it is highly infectious and contagious. 

The victim fish shows a whitish fungus around the cheeks and lips. The lips may become swollen and rot away. Sometimes a rotten strip of lip attached only at one end will move in and out of the mouth as the fish breathes.

Photo Wikipedia

Fish infected with Mouth Fungus lose their appetite and their movement become sluggish. If no adequate treatment is given, the whole frontal part of the head may be eaten away finally and the fish dies. 

Unless the affected fish is of considerable value, it should be killed before this fatal disease attack the other occupants, of the tank. Think about it... is trying to save the life of one fish worth risking the death of the rest of the fish in your aquarium? 

But if you insist on keeping the fish or in case the infection has already been passed on to other occupants, the following treatment is advised: 

- Swabbing the mouth of the victim fish with a soft cloth dipped in a strong salt solution. Then you must then keep the patient isolated in a bucket or jar containing a strong salt water. 

- Try swabbing the lips with a 5 per cent silver mercury preparation.
- Make a solution of Terramycin or Aureomycuin by dissolving 50mg per gallon of water, a rapid cure is expected within 48 hours. 

You can try all of the above remedies, but the most common remedy is the popular Methylene blue solution. To perform this remedy the sick fish should be placed in a jar, bucket or a treatment tank into which has been added a methylene per blue to color the water deep blue.

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How To Set Up A QUARANTINE TANK For Tropical Fish

Quarantine Tank - Photo   by beesalo 

Do I Need A Quarantine Tank?

Ah, yes, the often dismissed but very necessary part of the tropical fish hobby, the infamous quarantine tank.  Do you really need one to be successful in this hobby?

For freshwater fish, you may be able to get by without having one.  Freshwater fish are generally more suited to captivity because they are usually tank raised and don't seem to break out in disease as readily as their saltwater counterparts.  However, if newly acquired fish do come down with something, you will surely wish that you had one ready to go.  One newly bought fish that is introduced to your main tank can easily wipe out the entire tank population.  Better safe than sorry, right?

For saltwater aquarium keepers, I would say that you definitely need a quarantine tank.   Marine specimens are mostly wild caught and not used to being kept in captivity.  Their journey to a dealers tank is usually much longer and much more stressful for them.  Stressed out fish will usually come down with some kind of disease if they don't simply die from the whole ordeal.  Saltwater fish keepers will usually have other things in the main display tank such as invertebrates and live rock, that they don't want to expose to the harsh medicines necessary to treat one or two fish.  Some medicines can wipe out all of the invertebrates in a tank, so be sure to research any medicine before using it in your tank.

Quarantine Tank Setup

You don't need to go all out here.  A simple 10 - 20-gallon aquarium will suffice for most people.  If you have larger fish then obviously you want to get a bigger quarantine tank.  All you really need is a bare bones setup with the following equipment:

Some type of filtration (a hang on the back of the tank power filter will work, just use filter floss without the carbon since carbon will remove medication from the water, being counterproductive)

Heater

A powerhead and/or an airstone for increased surface agitation

Test Kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate

Fishnet - don't use the same net for your main tank

Fill the quarantine tank with water from the main tank and then turn everything on in the quarantine tank.

Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Quarantine

For newly acquired fish you will want to acclimate them to the water in the quarantine tank and monitor them very closely for a period of two to three weeks.  Monitor the water parameters with your test kits and check for signs of parasites or bacterial infections.

If the newly acquired fish does come down with something you will need to use the appropriate medication and you will need to keep them in quarantine for a further two weeks to make sure that you have indeed treated them effectively.  If after a few weeks no problems develop, you can then acclimate them to the main tank water and then introduce them.

If a fish comes down with something while in your main tank, just net them and plop them into the quarantine tank.  There should be no need to acclimate them because you used water from your main tank.  If you didn't use water from the main tank you will need to acclimate them to the quarantine tank water.  Diagnose the problem/disease and treat appropriately.  After the disease clears up you will still want to keep the fish in quarantine for a week or so monitoring the water parameters with your test kits the whole time.

More On Saltwater Quarantine

Always have some extra saltwater ready in case you need to perform an emergency water change.  Remember, you want to monitor those water parameters frequently (daily or at least once every two days).  Many saltwater hobbyists always have saltwater ready just in case.  You never want to mix up saltwater and add it right away.  Freshly mixed saltwater can be fairly toxic to fish, in turn causing you more problems.

Conclusion

Freshwater hobbyists may get away with not using a quarantine tank, but saltwater hobbyists would be crazy not using one.  Save yourself some money, headaches and especially the fish by having a quarantine tank.  The fish in your main tank will thank you for it.

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Dealing With DISCUS FISH Disease

Discus Fish - Photo   by Jim Linwood 

Discus fish disease is one of the things you want to learn not only because you want to know how to deal with it but also prevent the disease from striking your fish. One of the most common problems among specific big cichlids including the Discus fish is having a hole in the head. Early detection and treatment is very important because the longer the disease exists, it can be the cause of death of your fish.

Even if the fish heals after the treatment, the wound can leave a permanent scar. Treating the wound while it is still small is strongly recommended. You can treat the disease by increasing the water temperature from 30 degree Celsius to 36 degree Celsius for a couple of days, 8 to 10 days is ideal. Remember that an increased water temperature should be combined with increased aeration to keep the oxygen level up. You can combine heat treatment with Metronidazole, this should be administered orally. You can give this to your Discus fish once every three days. If your fish is not responding well to heat treatment, you can just use the Metronidazole treatment.

Another Discus fish disease is gill fluke. This is very common among Discus fish and it is very dangerous for Discus fry. Gill Flukes are external parasites that destroy the gills and cause heavy breathing and irregular swimming. The affected fish can become totally paralyzed and can sink down to the bottom of the tank. 

You can cure this by using formalin. Infested parents can still spawn but when the offspring grow to about the size of a 10 cent coin, gill flukes transmitted by the parents can become a serious problem. Another form of Discus fish disease is being affected by internal parasites. The fish can have internal parasites without posing some serious threats but sometimes these parasites can grow uncontrollably and that's when the problem begins. 

Common symptoms include emaciation and white feces. While it can be difficult which specific parasite affects your Discus fish, a dose of Metronidazole usually clears the problem out. If your Discus can still eat, you can prepare a solution of 200 ml water and 10 ml liquid Metronidazole and soak its food in it for an hour. Feed your Discus fish with the medicated food every 2 days for a period of 10 days. If your fish is no longer eating, you would have to force feed it using a syringe without a needle.

Article Directory: EzineArticles

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Bacterial Aquarium FISH DISEASES

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are many diseases that can affect the fish in your aquarium. Most diseases can be put into four major categories; Bacterial, Viral, Parasites and Fungus. The common aquarium fish diseases we will focus on in this article are bacterial. There are much more then what we will cover today but the ones below are a good mixture of fatality and ease of treatment.

One must remember that the first step in fighting any disease in your aquarium is to observe your fish on a daily basis for any signs of illness or irregular behaviour. Over time you will naturally know when something doesn't look right. When any aquarium disease is detected you should act immediately to help improve the chances of your fish making a full recovery.

Fin rot is probably one of the most common bacterial infections that appear in aquarium fish. The primary cause of fin rot is poor water quality. It is very easy to diagnosis fin rot because the fins are actually rotting away and will look as if they are dissolving down to the body of the fish. There are many medications that you can purchase in your local pet store designed specifically to address fin rot. You will also want to do frequent water changes to help improve the quality of the water.

Guppies and other fish that are considered livebearers are very susceptible to another bacterial disease called mouth fungus. The most obvious symptom that your fish is suffering from mouth fungus is that of cotton like growth appearing in the mouth. This growth will prevent the fish from eating so you will also observe a loss of weight. When treated quickly with an antibiotic bath mouth fungus is not fatal. You will also want to carry out partial water changes of your aquarium.

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Vibriosis can quickly become fatal in fish and spread rapidly throughout your aquarium. There are several signs of infection, reddening of the body, changes in colour and a swollen abdomen and eyes. It is extremely important that if you notice these symptoms that you remove the infected fish to a quarantine tank as quickly as possible to help fight spreading of the infection to the other fish. The reality is that vibriosis is fatal. Antibiotics may help but are very unlikely. One should focus on protecting the other fish in the aquarium from the bacterial disease. By doing full water changes and treating the water with antibiotics.

The last bacterial disease to be discussed that has no treatment is piscine tuberculosis. There will be a major loss of weight and colour in your aquarium fish. The eyes of your fish may abnormally protrude from the body. This attacks the fish's respiratory system and is highly contagious and fatal. Piscine tuberculosis is less common but if it occurs you will lose much fish. The only treatment is to separate all the fish into individual quarantine tanks and observe. You will have to strip down the main tank, disinfect it and restock it. Ultimately you have to start all over again.

Keeping an aquarium can bring many hours of enjoyment. The best treatment for any disease that can affect your aquarium fish is prevention. By regularly observing your fish and acting upon signs of disease quickly you can keep your fish happy and healthy and avoid any catastrophes.

By David Clemen David J. Clemen is an active contributor to http://freeaquariumadvice.com a completely free online resource for both the beginner and expert aquarium enthusiast. Article Source: EzineArticles

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AQUARIUM FISH HEALTH: WHITE SPOT DISEASE Symptoms And Cures

"Ichspotonforehead" by User:Helian - Own work. Licensed under

Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons.

Fish death is one of the main problems that beginner aquarist and even some expert aquarist face. It’s frustrating to the extent that most quit keeping aquarium fish.

But fish death can be avoided. Most fish deaths are caused as a result of both an internal and external types parasites that compete with the fish in the tank.

As a result, if you watch your aquarium fish often you should be able to discover when they have been infected by this parasite and be able to treat them to avoid fish death.

Look out for the following White Spot disease behavioural symptoms in your fish.

- Constant lying on the bottom or hanging at the surface.

- Rubbing of the body against rocks

- Gasping at the water surface

- No response to feeding

- General dullness and lethargy

- Hovering in a corner

- Fish swimming with clamps up

The most common of the visible signs is the development of the pinhead-size while spots on the body or fins. This ailment is referred to as White Spot disease and is caused by the parasite - Ichthyophthirius Multifillis.

This parasite has a free-swimming stage, which attaches itself to the fish. The most common chemical used in treating infected fishes is Methylene Blue. You could buy a one percent stock solution from a reputable chemist or aquarium shop and apply at 0.8 to 1.0ml per gallon of water. This amount should be added all at once. Repeat after one or two days.

The fishes must remain in this bath until every while spot has disappeared. A water change after treatment is necessary or else prolonged contact with the chemical may affect the fertility of the fish.

Another tip, if you are using a side filter with activated charcoal, should remove it to prevent the coal from absorbing the Methylene Blue.

Another tip... during treatment you should use artificial aeration with coarse bubbles near the surface since a dirty bottom would inactivate the medicament by absorption. A better measure is to remove all dirt from the bottom before treatment.

Methylene Blue is harmless to young fish and unlike the general belief, it does not affect plants if used in weaker concentration.

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How to Treat ANCHOR WORMS on GOLDFISH

Anchor worms are another external parasites that often affects goldfish and other types of fish that is quite common. Anchor worms often referred to as Lernaea cyprinacea, a common copepod parasite which is small crustaceans. These parasites are mostly found in pond raised fish but if left untreated they can cause serious damage to your fish not only in the population of parasites but the secondary bacterial infections that can arise as well after the parasites attach themselves to the body of the goldfish.

What happens is that they pierce the body feeding on tissue and fluids that cause more bacterial infections to set in. The good news is that it’s not very hard to learn how to treat anchors worms on goldfish or any other type of fish in fact. These parasites are very treatable as there are many treatment medications on the market today to choose from. Here I will show you many different ways on how to treat your goldfish for anchor worms.

Removing Anchor Worms with Tweezers

This method of treatment for anchor worms is not one that I will suggest people use. You will, however, be able to see these worms found on your goldfish as they are like small green hair like parasites seen attached to your goldfish. They are quite easily seen and can be removed with tweezers but the only thing wrong with this method is you don’t see all the small worms that could be attached to the goldfish already which are beginning to grow. Anchor worms start off small that end up turning into larger worms as they begin to feed on the body fluid of the goldfish which then you will see later on without a microscope. This method may work but you will never know if they reproduced in your tank or pond and are just waiting to find a new host.

Anchor Worm Treatment Medication

In order to know for sure, you have rid yourself of anchor worms once and for all people should strongly use fish medication to eliminate these external parasites. There are many types of fish medications on the market and here are just a few people can choose: Anchors Away, Dimilin, Proform LA, and Potassium Permanganate. These anchor worm treatment medications work great and will eliminate the parasites affecting your fish.

Anchors Away

To treat your fish using anchors away make sure you always follow the manufacturers recommended dosage. Here is how you treat your fish using this medication:

1. Perform a 25% water change before treatments.

2. Always make sure you remove the activated carbon from your filter.

3. Add one teaspoon for every 40 gallons

4. Treat every 6 days for up to 3 weeks

Anchors away is a great product and effective at eliminating anchor worms and other parasites as well. You will notice after the first week of treatment that they will be falling off your goldfish.

Dimilin

Dimilin is another great product on the market that will treat fish suffering from anchor worms. Here is how you treat your goldfish for anchor worms using Dimilin:

1. Shake bottle very well before use.

2. Remove activated carbon.

3. Add 1 tablespoon for every 60 gallons

4. Wait 14 days to see if anchor worms are completely gone

5. If not, repeat dosage again and do not do a water change.

6. After second treatment is complete, wait another 14 days to make sure parasites are eliminated then perform a water change removing some of the chemicals.

Proform LA

This is one of the best forms of treatment for anchor worms and fish lice on the market. It is really safe for humans to use and is a very low maintenance method of treatment. What’s great about Proform LA is that it can be used in any water temperature where some can only be used as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit. You can do three treatments one week apart and it’s a fairly low-cost medication to use as 1 pint will treat 5000 gallons and 1 quart will treat 10,000 gallons of water. This anchor worm medication will not harm turtles, frogs or snails. Follow recommended dosage

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Potassium Permanganate

This method of treatment should only be used by experienced fish keepers. This is a very strong medication that if done improperly will kill all your fish. Beware this can cure your goldfish or other fish from anchor worms but it can easily kill them too. With any medication that you use people should always use extreme caution wearing eye goggles, long sleeve clothes, and a face mask when possible. Never inhale by these medications and always work in a well-ventilated area. The slightest small crystal of potassium permanganate if it got into your eye can cause severe irritation and possible blindness. So please be careful when working with any form of medication. Again this form of medication should only be used by qualified people as other forms are easier to use and less risky. Here is how you treat with potassium permanganate:

1. Make sure you bypass your filter and shut off your UV sterilizer before treatment.

2. Make sure aeration is at top level.

3. Wear necessary protective equipment before adding treatment

4. Add 1 gram per 100 gallons or 1 teaspoon for every 600 gallons of water.

5. Wait till water turns brown

6. Add 1 pint of hydrogen peroxide per 1000 gallons. This will clear your water in not time and replenish oxygen to your water.

7. Turn on your filter again and UV sterilizer.

This method should be done up to three times to make sure you have eliminated all anchor worms and any other parasites that may be in the water. When you add hydrogen peroxide to the water it removes all effectiveness of the potassium permanganate. So in case of overdosage simply add hydrogen peroxide and your fish will be okay. Wait about 3 days before repeating treatment as the hydrogen peroxide may still be in the water making a new treatment ineffective. After 3 days you should be good to go for another treatment.

Now here I have covered several different ways at treating goldfish for anchor worms. Each medication is different and some are easier to use than others. Just make sure you use the one that you feel more comfortable with. Each of these above methods of anchor worm treatment will work. Just follow the manufacturers recommended dosage and your fish will soon be free of anchor worms.

By Jamie Boyle Jamie Boyle is an online author who writes and maintains his Goldfish Care Information (http://www.GoldfishCareInformation.com) blog to help people answer questions involving goldfish. If you need more information on goldfish and want to know how to treat various goldfish diseases please visit http://www.GoldfishCareInformation.com Article Source: EzineArticles

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How To Recognize FISH DISEASE Symptoms

When my son was small, one of the angelfish that lived in his aquarium suddenly became covered in what looked like a white film and after a few days, his fins started becoming damaged. After a few more days, the fish died and others started getting the same condition. It was not long before the aquarium had no fish in it and his fish keeping days were over.

A velvet infected fish. Clearly visible on head.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

At the time, we did not know what disease the fish had. I learned much later that it was probably a contagious and usually fatal disease called Columnaris. I did not investigate at the time, after all, they were goldfish and could have been easily replaced. But, what if it had been a koi pond or a much larger aquarium stocked with more valuable fish such as the aquarium my son-in-law has or the koi pond that is in our neighborhood. The end result would have been the same, but the loss would have seemed devastating. The possibility does raise the question "How do I know if my fish are sick?" for every fish keeper.

There are many fish diseases and all of them require medication, care and attention to cure. Most fish diseases are brought from outside sources when new fish are introduced into the aquarium. Many are caused by bacteria, parasites or fungus that thrive on poor quality water and a poor diet can contribute by decreasing the fish immune system. The easiest way to keep your fish healthy is to prevent disease in the first place. And good quality water and a proper diet are essential to preventing fish disease.

Realizing that there may be a problem in your aquarium is the first thing. But how do you know what the problem might be and how to treat it?

Every fish owner knows how his fish are supposed to act and will usually notice any unusual behavior or conditions. Unusual behavior, such as rubbing against rocks or gasping at the surface could be indicators of disease. Unusual conditions like small spots or patches on the fish are sometimes the first indicator of problems in the aquarium. If you suspect a fish is sick, get it out of the water and into a quarantine pool as soon as possible. Quarantine is necessary if you want to try to keep your other fish from getting sick. It is a good idea to keep a record of symptoms and your actions to treat the fish.

Somewhere in your fish keeping references, there should be a list of disease symptoms and treatments. Simple things, like fuzzy patches on the fish or around the mouth, a bloated appearance, or maybe, just losing weight. The list of symptoms is extensive, but the important this is that if you see something different about your fish, investigate.

The second issue is treating the disease to make the fish healthy again. There seem to be about as many drugs and disease treatments for fish as there are for humans. Most people do have a fish doctor in their list of contacts and a lot of the time you are on your own when treating a sick fish. Fortunately, there is a lot of free information available on the internet. And a lot of drugs used to treat the fish disease are available at most stores that sell fish.

Your references should include a list of diseases (with pictures) and possible treatments. I created a spreadsheet with information gleaned from a lot of different sources as a handy reference to help identify the symptoms.

By Marshall Crum Keeping koi fish is one of the most relaxing hobbies anyone can have. But like other ornamental fish, koi are susceptible to a wide range of fish diseases that can spread rapidly. Learning how to recognize the symptoms and how to take care of sick fish is essential to having healthy, vibrant fish. Click here and go to howtokeepkoi.com for more information on fish diseases. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Skin and GILL FLUKES in Tropical Fish

While parasites of various types are often responsible for fish rubbing themselves against objects in the tank, sometimes to the point of causing raw skin, it can be difficult to identify which parasite it is, unless you have a very good visual of it.

In the case of skin fluke, which is a parasitic flatworm, they are unlikely to show themselves to the extent where you would be able to remove them manually as you can with leeches or fish lice.  One of the common denominators they have with other parasite infections, is they can cause redness of skin, but so can rubbing against stones and wood.  However, skin fluke also causes a fading of color, and because the treatment is common to other types of parasites, you are best to go with a general medication, such as Droncit or formalin baths, when unsure whether it is skin fluke or not. Remove severely affected fish to a hospital tank.

The standard treatments of adding 1 tbs. of aquarium salt to a daily change of water in the home aquarium, and raising the tank temperature by four degrees also applies.  This is used for most parasites, including gill fluke, which has more obvious and visual symptoms.

Gill fluke is a worm that specifically attacks the gill membranes, causing them to turn red and acquire a coating of slime that makes it difficult to breathe.  Fish will hang at the water's surface, gasp, and lose weight rapidly.  The same tank treatments as skin fluke can be used, but with gill fluke, removing to a hospital tank and adding short baths in either formalin, salt or ammonium hydroxide to the regimen will help kill what is on the fish, and you can then treat their environment.

Love Tropical Fish? Find out how to create a beautiful, low-cost tropical fish aquarium with complimentary tips at http://www.TropicalFishIsland.com Article Directory: EzineArticles

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Constant AQUARIUM FISH DEATHS: causes and solutions

Shown is the head of Broadbarred firefish (Antennata Lionfish)
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Fish death aquarium tank is one of common challenges faced by aquarists. There are number of factors that could be responsible for the deaths experienced. These are outlined briefly bellow.

·                     The aquarist selection of fish.

·                     The removal and packing of the fish from the pet shop

·                     Transport time and period and the handling of the fish in transit

·                     Quarantine procedure.

·                     Adjustment and adaptation into the new community or environment by the new fish.

When buying fish from the pet shop always spend some time at the place to inquire about the life history and habits of the new purchase. You can then make a selection from collection of the same species. Never buy the last specimen in reserve at any shop because if it had been a good specimen, you would not have met it there in the first instance.

Always form the habit of making your fish purchase during the cool periods of the day, preferably before 12 noon or after 4.30pm.

These are the only periods I can guarantee for fish comfort. This restriction is borne out of my observation that most pet shops and aquarists alike do not seem to care about insulation of the fish against temperature fluctuations after gassing them in a polythene.

When making your fish selection from the pet shop be sure the attendant has the expertise to pick fish out from a selection. This you can know through the swiftness with which your choice fish is removed out of the selection.

Reject a fish that has been chased around, gasping for breath... It is week already! Chances are that it gives up with the further stress that accompanies the transportation of the fish.

Make sure that your new purchase is quarantined. That's a single factor that affects fish survival as pets.

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Index of TROPICAL FISH DISEASES

After creating and maintaining your beautiful aquarium, all the time and money you spent on it, the last thing you want to deal with is tropical fish diseases. Coming home and finding your fish covered with white spots, the eyes swollen or the fins disintegrating is a blow to any aquarist.

Following are the categories and symptoms of the most common diseases in tropical fish.

Fungal Diseases

Fungal diseases will usually occur after the fish has already been weakened through stress, parasites or a bacterial disease. In some cases the fish will appear sluggish and in the latter stages develop cysts. Another type of fungal infection will produce white growths that eventually turn into cotton like tuffs on the skin.

Bacterial Diseases

Bacterial diseases often need to be treated with antibiotic medications. Fish infected with bacteria often develop bulging eyes, ulcers and open sores. One bacteria causes a disease called mouth fungus that looks like a fungal infection on the mouth. Other signs of a bacterial infection include a lose of appetite, hollow belly, erratic swimming, and disintegrating fins.

Viral Diseases

Viral diseases are fortunately fairly uncommon in fish. On sign of a viral disease is white swellings on the body of the fish. Viruses cannot be treated with medication because they use the host's body to reproduce and live on. If you suspect your fish has a viral disease, it should be removed and placed in another tank so the other fish will not be infected with the same virus. The best thing you can do is to provide a clean environment and a healthy, nutritious diet. A virus can only be identified by special equipment and it is often difficult to detect.

Parasitic Diseases

One symptom most parasitic diseases have in common is the fish scraping against or rubbing objects. The parasites are eating through the flesh of the fish and if they aren't removed will eat into the organs and kill the fish. Simply pulling the parasites off will often do more damage to the fish. A bath of potassium permanganate or a salt solution is often the best method to remove parasites. In some cases you will be able to see the parasites on the skin of the fish and thus confirm the problem is parasites, or you may notice other signs such as rapid gilling, clamped fins, red skin and weight loss.

Protozoan Diseases

These diseases are caused by the protozoan parasite that infects the intestinal tract. Several diseases will cause a yellow to light brown dust on the body. On commonly known protozoan disease is called ich. Ich is characterized by small white spots all over the body. The fish will breath rapidly and have clamped fins. Other types cause excessive slim on the body, frayed fins, bloated body and a lack of appetite.

The best way to avoid tropical fish diseases is to have a clean tank and provide adequate nutrition. New fish should always be quarantined for two to four weeks.

By Leslie Heaton Leslie Heaton is a tropical fish lover with a weakness for buying more aquariums. Article Source: EzineArticles

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How To Discover And Prevent Aquarium FISH ILLNESS

Aquarium fish fall ill just like any other pet. The illnesses are as a result of disease. The common diseases that affect aquarium fish are mostly stress induced. 

The micro-organisms which cause these diseases may be present in the water as part of the normal micro fauna and grab the opportunity to infest or infect the fish when it is stressed and its normal defense are weakened.

Jet black angel is a fresh water aquarium fish 
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Different ways aquarium fish suffer from stress 

- Aquarium fish usually start experiencing stress starting from the time it’s about living the breeding farm till when the end purchaser finally picked it from retailer. Most beginners don’t really know how to handle fish.

- The quality of water is another cause of aquarium fish stress. Different fish species have different water quality that will make the environment conducive for them. Quality parameters like pH, water hardness, high nitrite and carbon dioxide level, low dissolved oxygen salinity of water, water temperature and others.

- Any change in environment like physical damage, leaches, lice and introduction of new fish that is not quarantine could lead to stress in aquarium, thus making life non conducive for fish in aquarium tank

- Change in weather condition is another factor that leads to aquarium fish stress. When there is heavy downfall as you know the weather will become cold and this could lead to stress in aquarium.

- Poor Diet as a result of lack in nutritional requirement always leads to poor performance in fish immune system. Fish immune system will struggle to operate efficiently. This will result in a stressed fish.

Warning signs of illness in aquarium fish 

You can easily know when your fish are going through stress if you watch them very well and often. You will notice signs like fish swimming with clamps up (closed) in their fins, hovering in a corner, heavy breathing and fish brushing its body against objects. These are warning signs you need to act on immediately.

How to reduce stress in aquarium 

To reduce stress in aquarium, you need to guide against factors that lead to stress. The following are tips on how to prevent stress that ultimately leads to illness:

- Make sure you have detail information about the fish species that you will be introducing to your tank. Enquiring about its requirements before you buy it will help you a lot. Thus, ask lots of questions before making your purchase.

- Knowing the right food for your fish is another important thing you have to know as this may vary from species to species. If you have this knowledge you will be able to provide foods that are rich in nutritional ingredients that your fish require.

- Keep the environment clean.

- When you want to introduce new fish, make sure it's quarantined to reduce the risk of disease.

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Sick GOLDFISH - Step One, Prevention, Step Two, Monitor, Step Three, Know What Action If Needed

There are times in every parent's life when his or her child, pet, or goldfish gets sick. Goldfish are prone to many ailments, and even the most common ones can be life threatening. Prevention and monitoring your fish are the best ways to keep your pet from contracting a disease.

Ryukin goldfish with swim bladder disease. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Being the good parent that you are, you have probably studied and memorized the normal movements and behaviors of your goldfish. If Goldie happens to become ill, look for signs that differ for their normal swimming patterns.

If your fish is shaking, hiding in corners and isolated places, gasping for breath near the surface of the tank, has his fins pressed together in a clamped fashion or demonstrates any other strange behaviors, it might be a good indicator that he's coming down with an illness. Once you've noticed these odd actions, take a closer look at your fish and see if there are discolorations or markings on his body.

Fish with certain parasites might have red and inflamed areas, sometimes around the gills, or might have swollen blood bumps on eir bodies. Check for damaged fins, cloudy eyes and bumps or blisters that appear on the scales.

There are many common goldfish ailments that can be identified by examining your pet's physical appearance. Once you have identified that there is definitely something wrong with your goldfish, it is a good idea to isolate him from your other fish in a hospital tank.

The hospital tank is prepared in advance and made to match the current environment of your fish, so that he won't go into shock. If the ailment turns out to be contagious, it's not a bad idea to treat your other fish as well as the sick one.

Unfortunately, some fish, no matter how hard you try, do not overcome their illness and continue to suffer until they pass away. Many people do not like to see their fish in constant pain and fell that euthanasia is appropriate. There are many methods out there for ending the life of a goldfish, so be sure to choose one that does not cause your fish even more pain.

While there are plenty of goldfish illnesses, there are just as many ways to treat them. Prevention and care is the best medicine for keeping your goldfish buddy in tiptop shape.

Author: Mark Sturge

How To Cure FISH DISEASE - Three Things You Must Do

Everyone wants his fish to be disease free and it is painful to see any creature suffer. It is also a fact that if you have one sick fish, without isolation and care, pretty soon all of them will or may be sick. This can be especially disastrous if you have a pond full of koi fish or other expensive ornamental fish.

If you suspect you have a sick fish, there appear to be three separate things you have to do: Recognition, separation and treatment. One without the other two leaves you with either one sick fish or a pond full of sick fish.

Fish Pond Fish Pond (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

How Do You Cure Fish Disease?

1. Learn to recognize the symptoms that indicate your fish may be sick.

There are several types of bacteria, parasite, fungi, and other illnesses common to most fish. Some of these diseases are also common to other tropical fish and cold water fish. It is a good thing to get to know the common diseases and review the symptoms, so you can quickly recognize them in your fish.

You're may not recognize the symptoms of all the diseases right away, but knowing when something is wrong with your fish is the first step toward helping the recover and protecting your pond.

Most disease can spread through pond water very quickly. So, instead of just one diseased fish, without treatment, you may soon have a pond full of them.

Depending on the type of disease and the circumstances surrounding it, there's the very real possibility that you could lose your entire pond of the beautiful fish you love. It's not fair to the other fish, it is not fair to you and it may be totally unnecessary.

No matter how big a pond you have if you don't have healthy fish to enjoy, it is just a big puddle of water, isn't it?

2. Quarantine a Sick Fish.

Fish, especially koi, have individual personalities that you will learn. And as soon as you think a fish is acting differently or may be developing a problem, don't hesitate to quarantine it until you find out for sure.

Recognizing when a fish is sick as quickly as possible can help you remove and quarantine it and hopefully avoid spreading the disease through your pond. Being able to recognize the symptoms of a sick fish is priceless.

When purchasing new fish, it is a good idea to quarantine the new ones separately from your current population for two to three weeks to observe them.

Fish that live in quarantine conditions for this length of time and have not shown any disease symptoms will have a substantially less chance of contaminating the rest of your pond.

Another important thing to remember about quarantine is to properly wash your hands when handling both quarantine items and non-quarantine items to avoid transferring anything that will make your pond sick.

3. The Treatment of Fish Disease

Identify the particular disease or condition.

There are many parasites and organisms that can make your fish sick. And you have to know what you are treating to determine treat it. Some kinds of parasites are treated by adding salt to the pond water while others cannot handle a change in water temperature.

Check for Unusual Stress Factors.

While you may think that fish disease is a result of water borne pathogens, you may not be aware that stress is a contributing factor to many of the diseases that affect your fish.

Stress works on the fish immune system much like it works on ours. It slowly lowers the immune system and makes it much more difficult to naturally fight off disease.

Stress in animals is now being increasingly being implicated in many diseases that humans get. Everything from cancer to heart disease, and (this one is hard to believe) even sinusitis. I cannot imagine a fish with sinus problems or a runny nose.

Fish stress comes from their physical environment most importantly, the quality of the water they live in. Crappy water can make it easier for disease to spread and make it more difficult to spot a fish that is having problems.

Check your pond water.

This is the easiest thing to do. In the ideal pond environment, the goal would be to remove as many stress causing factors as possible. Most of all, this means having good quality water, eliminating ammonia and nitrite and increasing the oxygen levels.

If you suspect you have a sick fish, act quickly. The most important consideration is to keep from infecting all the fish in your pond by quarantining the sick fish as soon as possible. After all, it's better to be wrong than to not act at all and lose your entire pond!

A backyard fish pond that is clean and have healthy fish with vibrant colors is a joy to behold. But sometimes bad things happen. But it is useful to know that diseases don't attack any specific species of fish any faster or often than they attack other fish.

By M Crum CLICK HERE and get all the information you need to keep your koi or other fish healthy and disease free. Article Source: EzineArticles

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A List Of Common FISH DISEASES And Their Symptoms

1. Bacterial Diseases in Fish

Bacteria are a very common cause of complaint for fish breeders. There are many bacterial diseases in fish caused due to pathogenic bacteria. These bacteria can either attack the fish externally, or can enter into the body of the fish through the skin and can damage internal organs, even leading to death. Fin rot and bacterial gill disease are the most common bacterial attacks in fishes, in which the fins and the gills are infected respectively. If the bacteria have managed to gain entry into the body, it is known as systemic infection. Bacteria can also cause ulcers and lesions on the body of the fish. Bacterial infections are easily apparent externally as ulcerous marks or red irritations on the skin of the fish. Bacterial infections are very common in koi fish. 

2. Fish Lice

Fish lice are scientifically termed as argulus, and being about a centimeter in size, they are among the largest parasites found in the animal world. They are very detrimental to the health of the fish, because they can suck out the fluids from the body of the fluids by clamping their proboscis like mouth into the bodies of the fish. 

Lice are easily to identify on the bodies of the fish because they are clearly visible. However, it is necessary to carry a careful inspection of the body of the fish, especially in the hidden areas behind the fins. Lice may appear as dark spots when they are not moving. If there are too many lice, the fish will be quite agitated and will move their body a lot. 

3. Flukes in Fish

Flukes are parasites in fish that are harmless in small numbers, but can be fatal to the fish in large numbers. Flukes are small, about 2 mm in length, and are almost invisible to the naked human eye. But these flukes have hooks through which they clamp to the bodies of the fish. Flukes can suck out the body fluids from the fish and even cause their death. The significant threat from flukes is that one fluke requires only one fish to complete its lifecycle, and therefore there is more reason why the fluke will remain clamped to the fish. Flukes have been considered to be the most difficult of the fish parasites to treat, though treatments with malachite and formalin often show positive results in stronger doses. 

4. Ich

Commonly known as ich, ichthyobodo or costia is a very common parasite that is found on the bodies of fish. Several fish can live with this parasite showing no signs at all. In fact, in small numbers, ich is harmless. The defenses of the fish can keep the number of ich under control. But when fish suffer from some other disease, the defenses are broken and then ich begins to multiply. Ich can multiply at a very fast rate. In no time, the fish will show a large amount of ich on its body, its breathing will become labored and shortly, it will retreat and isolate itself from the other fish. When this stage arrives, ich often proves fatal to the fish.

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