Tips For Buying A PET SNAKE

Buying a snake can be a sizable investment. Getting a snake requires making a commitment to the pet's care and well-being. It is important to do your research so you know that the particular species or breed is something you will enjoy owning in the years to come. Find out how difficult they are to feed and house before you buy. Also find out about the snake's temperament.

Remember that some snakes get extremely large, can be dangerous, and live a long time. Lifespans of over twenty years are not uncommon. Don't assume getting rid of that unwanted reptile will be a piece of cake either.

Negev Zoo snake
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Another thing to check out before buying is the laws of your particular city. In many places, snakes of certain varieties are restricted as pets.

That being said, it's a good idea to get the enclosure, or vivarium, ready for the snake to move in before buying one. Different species have different requirements in heat, humidity, and size of enclosure, so again, do your homework.

Before buying, look your snake over for indicators of poor health. It's a good idea to hang around the pet store or breeders' for a while, just watching the snakes for clues to individual snakes' personalities. The eyes should be bright and shiny. If they appear dull, it's a sign that the snake is about to shed its skin. Wait until it has shed so you can get a better idea of how it looks.

It is important to get a snake that has been hatched or birthed by a reputable breeder. Make sure the snake is accustomed to eating pre-killed food before you buy it.

The best place to go to find a reputable breeder is your local herpetological society. Most areas have herp clubs for people who are into reptiles. If you're lucky, you might get to attend a herp show in your area. Breeders attend these gatherings and show off their stock. Search online for information about herp shows you could attend. (Herpetology is the branch of biology that studies reptiles and amphibians. "Herp" is a common nickname for these animals.)

When studying the choices of pet snake species, get to know the Latin names. Common names vary with pet stores and with regions. By knowing exactly what species of snake you want, you can save yourself a lot of trouble. Different species of similar snakes, such as boas or pythons, have different temperaments and grow to different sizes. Just knowing it is a boa or a python is not specific enough to know for sure what you are getting.

Finally, there are some people who just should not own pet snakes. These include homes with children under five and anyone with a compromised immune system, because there is a small possibility of a snake carrying salmonella. The large pythons and constrictors can be a danger to young children, too. (And to everyone else, too! Be extremely careful, and know what you're getting into.)

Educate yourself before you start shopping for that cool looking snake. If it’s your first snake, consider getting a And prepare to be in it for the long haul.

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What Types of LIZARDS Make Good Reptile Pets?

There is nothing wrong with wanting a reptile for a pet, provided of course you first arm yourself with knowledge.  Education is the key to being a responsible owner.  Of course, there are instances when you may not first get the chance.  Suppose your well-meaning relative decided it would be a good idea to give you an exotic pet for a gift, not thinking of the reptile's welfare should you be unable to care for it or uneducated about its care.  But, of course there are always exceptions to the rule.

An Eastern Bearded Dragon displays its beard in a threatening position. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are ways of choosing your pet when you do decide to obtain a reptile.  You can choose to buy a pet to fit the cage you are able to get, or you can buy a cage to fit the pet you want.  Either way you go, please make sure you take into account that the reptile will grow and must be able to fit into the enclosure as it gets bigger.  Please refrain from purchasing the reptile if you will be unsure about being able to afford a larger cage later on or if you won't have the space.  There are plenty of other choices you can make that will fit into your budget.

A Leopard Gecko is a popular lizard choice for people who want a reptile that will be smaller than the Iguana.  The Iguana has been known to reach 7 feet in length!  A bigger lizard means a bigger cage and a bigger food bill.  The Leopard Gecko only reaches 10 inches.  There's obviously quite a difference there.  First time owners have more success when they start small and build up to the other interests.  This lizard also stays active at night, so night owls may get more enjoyment from it than someone who wants to interact or watch their reptile during the day.  The Leopard Gecko can live up to 15 years and is easy for a beginner to care for.

A Bearded Dragon is a popular lizard choice.  They're fond of crickets, but they also need fresh vegetables and fruits like the Iguana.  The Bearded Dragon looks fierce and beautiful when it fans out its spiky beard.  These reptiles can grow to 20 inches.  Blue skinks are known for their blue tongues.  Skinks can grow anywhere from 12 to 20 inches, depending on which type you get.  They enjoy a diet of earthworms.  This may be easier to stomach than the diet of mice and rats a snake requires!

Another common lizard choice is that of the Green Anole, also known as the American chameleon.  While it isn't actually related to the chameleon, it is able to change colors from green to dark brown.  This reptile only grows to 9 inches normally and eats insects.

Whatever your choice of lizard or other reptile as a pet, just make sure you do your research before you purchase.  If you are given the animal as a gift, please educate yourself as quickly as possible to prevent unintentional harm to the reptile.

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CRESTED GECKO Health: Keeping Your Crested Gecko Fit and Healthy

Crested geckos are some of the easiest reptiles to keep as pets, providing that a few very simple rules are followed.

• Crested geckos require a nutrient and calcium rich balanced diet, in order for them to grow properly and live a long and healthy life.
• They also require a temperature gradient in order for them to thermo-regulate and better digest the nutrients in their food.
• They also require plenty of space to move around, and being arboreal tree dwellers they also require a lot of climbing branches / perches.

The New Caledonian Crested Gecko (Rhacodactylus ciliatus). (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The most common health problems that occur in cresties in captivity are usually a result of one of the above not being offered, or not being offered to the correct standard.

Below you will find an insight into the most common of these problems and ways to ensure that they are prevented.

MBD: Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:

Metabolic bone disease in geckos is most often caused due to a lack of the correct nutrients being provided in their diets.

Metabolic bone disease is a deficiency of calcium, which results in the gecko utilising the calcium reserves from its own body and skeleton to supplement this lack in calcium.

By using the reserves of calcium in its own body, the gecko's skeleton is 'warped' and misshapen due to the bones becoming very weak and pliable.

This often results in permanent disfigurement of the gecko, especially in the form of bumps, twists and dips in the spine and a rotating of the hips, causing the tail to flop or jut-out at an unusual angle.

Metabolic bone disease can also cause a weakening of the jaw, resulting in the gecko finding eating much more difficult.

The jaw is often too weak for the gecko to close it itself, and the jaw remains permanently open.

Due to the weakening of the bones, MBD can also at its worst result in numerous broken bones.

A gecko with MBD finds it more difficult to climb, and often lose the 'stickiness' on their feet and tail. If a gecko with MBD falls from a height, broken bones are usually the result.

Metabolic bone disease in its latter stages is a horrific sight to witness, and the gecko is twisted and contorted out of recognition.

In younger and crested gecko breeding females it is extra important to supplement feeding properly. Hatchlings put a lot of calcium into bone growth, and breeding females use an extraordinary amount of calcium when producing eggs.

Providing a healthy, nutrient rich and balanced gecko diet is the most foolproof way to help prevent your crested gecko developing MBD.

Preventing gecko Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:

• Gut load live food prior to feeding making them more nutritious
• Dust live food with nutrient powders, Calcium, and/or Calcium D3
• Provide a good meal replacement gecko diet powder
• UVB light can also help to prevent MBD, as it helps the gecko to absorb and utilise the calcium in its diet more efficiently
• Too much phosphorous in a diet can prevent calcium being absorbed. Avoid foods with high phosphorus content.

Floppy tail syndrome: FTS in crested geckos

Floppy tail syndrome in geckos is when the gecko's tail literally flops in an abnormal direction. It is most noticeable when the gecko is laying upside-down, flat against the side of its enclosure, at which point the tail usually flops down over its head or at a jaunty angle.

A healthy gecko tail would rest against the glass in its natural position.

It is thought that Floppy tail syndrome results mainly from a captive environment as cresties in the wild would rarely come across a surface as flat, smooth and vertical as an enclosure wall.

It is believed that this flat surface is what can contribute to FTS in crested geckos, as laying on this vertical surface for extended periods of time results in the tail 'flopping' over due to gravity, and weakens the muscles at the tails base.

At its worst, floppy tail syndrome is believed to be able to twist the pelvis of the gecko, predominantly due to the excessive weight put on the pelvic area when the tail flops to the side.

Due to this it is not advised to breed a female crested gecko with FTS, as she could well encounter problems trying to pass the eggs.

Although no concrete evidence is available, it can be assumed that providing plenty of climbing and hiding places for your gecko could help to prevent them from sleeping on the enclosure walls.

However it is still not fully understood whether this is the actual underlying cause of FTS. Many believe it could be a genetic deformity, and as such it could be passed from parents to their young although at the minute this seems unlikely.

Heat Stress in Crested Geckos

Heat Stress in crested geckos is the number one killer of these usually very hardy and easy to care for reptiles.

Crested geckos will begin to show stress if kept at temperatures above 28C for prolonged periods of time.

It is much easier to maintain your crested gecko enclosure at temperatures closer to around 25C than to risk over exposure to higher temperatures.

That being said you can allow parts of your enclosure to reach 28C - for example directly below the basking bulb - so long as your pet gecko can choose to move into a cooler area if they wish.

Higher temperatures only become a deadly problem when your gecko is forced to endure them constantly or for long periods of time without the option to cool down.

Research has shown that crested gecko exposed to temperatures of 30C without being able to cool down, can and will very likely die within an hour.

Young/small geckos are even more prone to heat stress so it is best to always allow them the choice to move to the cooler end of their temperature range.

Cleaning your crested gecko vivarium:

Keeping your gecko enclosure clean will help to prevent illnesses linked with bad hygiene, bacteria and moulds.

The crested gecko tank / enclosure will periodically need a thorough clean when it becomes dirty.

I find it easiest to spot-clean the enclosures every day or two, removing uneaten food and excrement and wiping the sides of the enclosure with damp paper towel.

There are numerous reptile-safe disinfectants available now and these can be diluted with water to ensure a safe environment for your gecko after cleaning and you can use newspaper to clean up smears and streaks on glass enclosures.

It is advised to do a thorough complete clean of the enclosure and all of its contents once in a while. I tend to do a big clean out every month to help stop any unwanted bacteria building up.

With regular cleaning and upkeep your crested gecko enclosure should not create an unwanted odour or create mould/bacteria.

Choosing a healthy crested gecko:

A healthy gecko:

• Will have clean and clear nose and eyes. Eyes will be bright and shiny and will not be sunken into the head.
• Will not have layers of retained shed skin stuck at its extremities. Healthy geckos shed in a few hours and shed should not remain much longer than this.
• Will not be dehydrated: Dehydrated geckos will have loose skin, sunken eyes and will be somewhat lethargic. Dehydration often results in the gecko looking thin in comparison to a well hydrated gecko.
• Will be alert when handled, a unhealthy animal will be limp and possibly shaky in your hand and will show little to no interest or reaction in being handled
• Should have a plump, straight tail that can 'grasp' onto objects. A good test of this is if the gecko wraps its tail around your finger.
• Should have almost Velcro like feet. If the gecko is failing to stick/climb - this can be a sign of MBD or retained shed.

By Daniel Sharples Take a look at our website dedicated to the care and husbandry of crested geckos and leopard geckos. geckocity.co.uk Thank you for taking the time to read our article, we hope it was informative. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Constructing the Perfect TURTLE or TERRAPIN Tank

If  you have decided to bring home a pet turtle or terrapin, you should know what  is necessary to house them comfortably. Depending on the kind of pet turtle or  terrapin that you choose, each has its own needs and requirements for living a  healthy and happy life in your home. Generally there are a few needs that most  turtles have in common as far as their habitat is concerned.

A hatchling Ornate Terrapin (Terrapene ornata ornata) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The  first thing to keep in mind is being able to provide them with a comfortable  environment that consists of a wet habitat and a dry habitat. This can be done by  constructing a turtle tank with both a wet area and a dry area in it. There are  certain things that you should provide no matter what type or gender of turtle  or terrapin you have.

The  wet aquarium should consist of water that is at the right temperature for them.  It need to constant filtration and regular cleaning. It should also include the  right levels of other materials such as rocks, plants and comfortable places  for your turtle to bask on.

Your aquarium should maintain a constant  temperature between environments to help your pet turtle or terrapin adapt to  the change between wet and dry more easily. You should also make sure you place  a constant supply of fresh water in a shallow container in the dry environment  for them.

Their  feedings should be done in water as they cannot swallow otherwise and you will  need to keep both environments clean on a regular basis.

Some pet owners make  the mistake of thinking that their pet turtles and pet terrapins do not require  a lot of care and cleaning, but in point of fact turtles would keep themselves  very clean in their natural environment. So you need to make sure there are  kept safe from any possibility of bacteria or soft-shell disease.

The  water should not be too deep and the basking ground should be made of small  pebbles and flat stones so that it is more comfortable for the turtle.

The  basking ground should either be in a very sunny spot, with natural, unfiltered  sunlight or be lit by an ultraviolet (or UV) lamp. Reptile UV lamps are  available at most pet stores and you should certainly invest in one for the  health and well-being of your pet turtle.

Liked this article? Read more at: Turtle and Terrapin Tank Article Directory: Article Dashboard

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BALL PYTHON

Description: 

Ball pythons grow to about 4 feet in length and some may grow to about 5 feet in length. They become nicely rounded if properly fed. They have anal spurs. These are single claws that appear on either side of the vent. Males have longer spurs than females and males also have smaller heads than females. They have blotches on a brown or bluish-brown background color. Colors may vary but there will be shades of yellow found in all ball pythons. 

Female ball python (Python regius) brooding a clutch of eggs. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Basic Care: 

Glass tanks can be used for housing with a fixed glass top. Ball pythons are more cunning than other snakes when it comes to escaping from the cage. A ten gallon tank can be used for a hatchling. A young adult will need a 20 gallon tank, and a full grown adult will need a 30 gallon tank. 

These snakes will adjust to the environment it is housed in, but will normally require a more humid area when it is shedding. If one notices that the snake has not eaten for a very long time though it is necessary, and it begins to lose weight, it must be shown to a vetenary. 

Diet: 

In the wild ball pythons eat amphibians, other snakes, small mammals and birds. They do not eat mice in the wild. In captivity one has to let them grow into the activity of being fed with mice. These snakes do not need to eat regularly and some may even live for up to a year without any food. 

Baby ball pythons can be fed with mice that have already been killed. If the hatchling is smaller than usual, a smaller mouse can be used as the feed. Adults may be fed with larger mice. These snakes do not need a regular feeding time table. Fresh water must be provided daily, as the ball python like others drinks and also soaks itself in the water. 

Heat and light: 

For the snake to be healthy proper temperature range must be maintained. A temperature of 80 to 85 ºF with a 90 degree spot for basking must be maintained in the day time. The temperature may be around 70 to 75 ºF in the cooler area. Heating pads may be used under the glass enclosure. 

Hot rocks will not be suitable because ball pythons are susceptible to thermal burns. Special lights are not needed, and a low wattage bulb can be used to view the snake in the day time. Ball pythons are especially prone to getting burned and so the light must not be kept directly above them. 

Environment: 

Ball pythons in the wild are found in generally temperate to arid areas. Initially paper towels can be used as substrate in the housing. This will also help determine if there are any mites present and also the feces can be monitored. Shredded cypress or fur bark can be used after the ball python is used to living in the enclosure. Pine and aspen shavings are not recommended, as they may get lodged in the mouth causing respiratory problems. Soiled shavings must be removed to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungus. 

An empty cardboard box or a log must be placed inside the cage for the ball python to use it as a hiding place. One must make sure the box is large enough for the entire snake to fit inside. The hiding place should not be too big as the snake likes to have a small place to hide. Fake branches and greenery may be placed inside the cage for the snake to climb and hang on. 

Behavior: 

They are active around dawn and dusk. They are comfortable on the ground and in the trees. They curl up tightly and put their heads in the centre when they become nervous. They are curious and gentle. Some ball pythons will not shed for a few months when they are initially in captivity. This means they are highly stressed with the surroundings.

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A RED EARED SLIDER Will Make An Excellent Pet

There are various freshwater turtle species in the world, but probably none are as well renowned as the red eared sliders. Sliders make an adorable pet, seeking plenty of attention. There are some serious cleanliness measures that should be taken into consideration while nurturing a red eared slider. These measures are as follows:

A closer look at the head of red-eared slider. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

                 

How to distinguish a male and a female red eared slider?

The differences between the male and female red eared slider are fairly distinct, however, they do not become too obvious until the slider reaches sexual maturity. Male red eared sliders reaches sexual maturity in 2 to 5 years, conversely, female red eared sliders reach their sexual maturity in 5 to 7 years. Male sliders can be distinguished from their claws on front feet, which are not present in the females. Furthermore, another trait differentiating male and female slider is their tail. The tail of male slider is longer and thicker. The cloaca in males is located farther from their body with males having somewhat concave plastron.

Tank water and your red eared slider

Red eared sliders spend plenty of time in water, therefore, it is highly recommended that the water they live in is clean. Keeping water clean may sound an ordinary task, however, the reality is slightly different. It is obvious that sliders also defecate in their water. Due to defecation, the tank becomes smelly and cloudy making the cleanliness measures challenging.

In a nut shell, water quality maintenance measures include removing wastes along with instituting colonies of healthy bacteria that will collapse waste products. Ways in which you can do this are as follows:

Measure the quality of water

It is essential to check the levels of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in the water. Excess of any of these can be irritating and harmful for the turtles. You must purchase test kits for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates from the pet stores. The directions to use them are printed at the back of the kit. High levels of the three requires a complete water change, however, moderate level requires frequent partial water change.

Chlorinated or Dechlorinated Water?

This is subject to conflicting opinions. However, it is suggested to dechlorinate water by using water conditioners. Chlorine can be irritating to your pet, especially to their eyes. If you live in a city where chloramines are used to treat the drinking water, then you must buy a water conditioner that is labeled to remove chlorine, chloramines and ammonia (a by-product of the deactivation of chloramines).

What option of filtration you prefer?  

The ideal filter for red eared sliders is the one rated for 2-3 times the size of the sliders tank. There are many filtration levels available in the market such as, biological filtration, chemical filtration and mechanical filtration.

‘Red Eared Slider Secrets’ by Chris Johnson is book that includes everything about red eared turtles. If you are looking forward to provide your new friend a comfortable and loving home then you should have this handy book with you.

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REPTILE Diseases

Dangers exist when keeping reptiles as pets, but not just as bites and scratches.  You can also contract salmonella disease from not washing your hands after coming into contact with the feces or urine or touching something that has.  It's important to keep your hands away from your face, food, or food preparation areas or utensils until you've properly washed and disinfected your hands.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Salmonella can be transferred to your countertops from the reptile's feet, so allowing the little bugger to walk on in your kitchen, on your dining table, or even near your toothbrush is inadvisable.  Mild infection of salmonella includes diarrhea, fever, and stomach cramps.  More severe infection happens if the germs travel to the bloodstream, bone marrow, or nervous system.

Other diseases that can be passed to you from reptiles are toxoplasmosis, Lyme disease, rabies, or chronic fatigue syndrome.  These diseases are known as zoonotic diseases, those which can be passed from animal to animal or animal to human.  It is important to understand that reptiles are not the only animals that transmit these diseases, so there's no need to panic just because you weren't aware of them before you bought the reptile.  Lyme disease is passed by tick bites, and you can get ticks from walking through tall grass!

Proper handling of your reptile is the most important issue to keep diseases from being passed to you or your loved ones.  So, make sure you educate your children on the importance of proper handling and hand washing.  If you aren't sure they are old enough to understand, it is best if you keep the reptile away from the child's reach at all times.  The temptation of touching the reptile or putting their hands in the cage just might be too much for them to resist.

Besides the risk of diseases being transferred to humans, the reptiles themselves can suffer from several diseases.  Mites, ticks, worms, rickets, osteoporosis, fungal diseases, bacterial diseases, anemia, depression, or anorexia are just a few.  There's also a disease known to attack lizards called metabolic bone disease.  It's very painful for the reptile and is often caused by lack of calcium.  Improper ultraviolet radiation also causes the reptile problems because of the inability to release vitamin D3, which enables proper absorption of calcium.  The symptoms of this disease are brittle bones, swollen jaws, swollen legs, recessed jaws, and no energy.  Just imagine how horrible it must feel!

Other problems reptiles can encounter are mouth rot, skin disease from improper shedding, organ bleeding from an overdose of vitamins, colds, and respiratory infections.  Central nervous systems can suffer with vitamin B1 deficiency.  A female reptile can acquire overloaded ovaries or post ovulatory eggs, which could require surgery.

This is why you must take your animal's welfare seriously.  If you are well-armed with knowledge on how to care for it, the chances of it contracting or becoming worse from disease is much reduced.  Of course, you have much less control over something the reptile may have had prior to your care.  This is where it will help to have some background on the history of the pet shop where you decide to purchase.  It also helps to know what to look for to spot some problems before you purchase!

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IGUANA Facts - What a Newbie Needs to Know

If this is the first time that you'll be caring for an iguana, then it's probably best to acquaint yourself with the anatomy and basic behaviors of an iguana. By educating yourself, it will be easier to tell when there's something wrong with your new pet reptile. These are a few basic iguana facts you should know.

Adult male iguana (Iguana iguana) in Morikami Gardens, Delray Beach, Florida
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Iguanas Require Heat and UV Light

Iguanas are reptiles and, therefore, they need a consistent supply of heat and Ultra violet rays to stay healthy. Iguanas won't be able to function in habitat with a temperature which is lower than 79 degrees.

Ultra violet rays are necessary so the iguana is able to metabolize calcium and other minerals. Without Ultra violet rays, your iguana will probably experience bone mineral disorders that frequently result in their death.

Iguana Behavioral Characteristics

Iguanas can seem to be threatened fairly easily, and when you don't observe their mannerisms and behavior closely enough you may get bitten or hit by its massive tail. Unlike cats and dogs, iguanas will not vocalize a lot before biting, so be careful particularly if the iguana hasn't been fully tamed.

When you first bring your new pet home do not over handle him or overexpose him to strangers. 

It will take a few weeks to gradually acclimate him to his new environment. Once he is comfortable in his new surrounding, begin to socialize him gradually and the bonding process will go much better.

The dewlap, or the large wad of skin beneath the iguana's jowls, is additionally used to communicate. In the wild, an iguana may raise its head to extend the dewlap to signal a basic "Hello" to members of its own species.

An extended dewlap may also mean that it is attempting to protect its territory from the human owner or from other iguanas. During mating season an extended dewlap may mean "I desire to mate". This only applies should there be female iguanas in the same enclosure, and it's mating season.

If your iguana has been tamed, and is used to your presence, an extended dewlap may signify it is just a little drafty and it's making an attempt to make itself feel warmer.

Iguana Mannerisms

Head Bobbing: I am the man of the house?

Head Bobbing: (to owner) "Howdy Mate!"

Head Bobbing: (fast, laterally then up and down) I'm threatened do not go near me!

Tongue Flicking: Just exploring the air. Possibly eating something.

Tongue Flicking: I'm about to take a bite from something.

Sneezing: I'm purging my system of something.

Tail Whipping: I'm planning to attack.?

Squirming Around: I do not like being held.

Head and Front Legs Stretching: I feel great and I feel good!

Iguana Anatomy

Just like other reptiles, your iguana has a set of eyes that have evolved to scan the environment for food and potential predators. It has a pair of ears that are protected by a fairly wide element of skin called the subtympanic shield.

The iguana also forms spines along its back; these pliable spines are called the caudal spines and, as time passes, these grow in length and become harder. Iguanas also have a flap of skin under their lower jaw known as the dewlap.

Iguanas are herbivorous (they are nourished by plants only), so they are equipped with small, yet very sharp, teeth that are designed to tear apart fibrous plant matter. Be cautious when bringing your hands near the iguana's mouth, because those teeth can cause serious tears in your skin. If you look closely at the top of the iguana's head, you will observe a prominent, light patch of scale.

This is called the parietal eye, or third eye. The iguana uses its third eye to detect changes in light in a given area. It is thought this primordial eye is also used to detect flying predators, hence the iguana can make a run for cover before becoming another animal's lunch or dinner.

It is essential to learn about iguana behavior and mannerisms. The basic facts discussed in the article should help to decipher your iguana's moods. Don't forget that no two iguanas are exactly alike so you must also learn the personality of your new pet. Ask questions and gather as much information as possible to ensure that your iguana is long lived well cared for.

By Samuel Boothe Sam Boothe has been keeping reptiles since childhood. Learn more about iguanas and iguana care at http://iguanacare-site.com to ensure your new pet lives a long and happy life. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Guidelines on What to Feed a LEOPARD GECKO

One of the most important factors in the health and well being of your Leopard Gecko is a healthy diet. Leopard Geckos are insectivores, they prey on insects, such as spiders, moths, mosquitoes, and worms.

Adult geckos can be fed live prey every other day while baby leopard geckos should be fed daily. This is not always the case, but it is a pretty good rule of thumb.

Eublepharis macularius1 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

You can also feed your gecko crickets, but when giving a gecko crickets as prey, you need to make sure that you use crickets that are small enough for your gecko to hunt.

Two appropriately sized mealworms for each inch of the geckos length is a good amount. but you can treat your pet to waxworms or superworms once a week. Although some geckos have been known to have a sweet tooth and enjoy eating fresh fruit or even honey. They should be given live insects that are small enough for the gecko to deal with.

You can feed your gecko anywhere from 4 to 8 crickets at one time, depending on the size of your gecko and the size of the crickets. If the crickets aren't eaten within a couple of hours they should be removed and used for the next feeding, so that they don't cause your gecko any unnecessary stress. It is normal for geckos to eat the skin that they shed, so they may not always need the same amount of food for each feeding.

Super-worms, mealworms or anything else that can be contained in a dish can be left within the cage without putting the gecko in any danger.

If you wish, as a treat you can offer your adult gecko an occasional tiny pinkie mouse. One that is only a few days old will be little enough for a fully grown gecko to manage. In fact, pinkie mice are a wonderful choice to offer breeding females.

Wax-worms are also a good treat for your gecko however, because wax-worms can become additive for geckos, they should only be given sparingly. Even though geckos love wax-worms, they are very fattening and generally unhealthy for geckos.

The prey that you offer your pet should be no larger than half the width of your gecko's head, this will ensure that your gecko doesn't choke on it.

The skin that the gecko sheds, and then eats, does help to provide them with protein and other healthy nutrients.

One of the best ways of keeping your leopard gecko healthy in regards to feeding it, is to gut-load your geckos prey 24 hours prior to feeding it to them. Gut-loading is feeding the crickets or other insects a highly nutritious, high quality meal prior to feeding them to your gecko.

Offering your gecko a healthier insect in turn makes a healthier gecko. You can buy a feed the insects things like chick or hog mash, fruits, vegetables and grains. They also make and sell products that come in a powdered form and can be fed to the prey. Along with gut-loading, you can offer your gecko calcium and vitamin supplements by sprinkling the prey with powdered supplements prior to feeding them to your gecko.

Calcium and vitamins supplements are very important to the overall health of your leopard gecko. Dusting the prey does run the slight risk of the cricket cleaning it off or even getting the dust in your geckos eyes. So, gut-loading and leaving the powder in a lid might be best.

Dusting is also a good way to enrich the diet of baby leopard geckos and breeding females.

Water should also be given to your gecko and kept fresh at all times. Stagnant water is a breeding ground for bacteria which can lead to illness in your gecko so the water should be changed frequently.

By Debbie S Miller Debbie Miller is a pet lover and leopard gecko expert. Article Source: EzineArticles

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