2017-06-20

Pet JELLYFISH Facts: Jellyfish Anatomy

Jellyfish have survived for 650 million Years. They belong to the phylum Cnidaria. This phylum is divided into definitive classes which include all anemones, corals, fire corals and what is commonly referred to as true jellyfish. Anthozoa contains sea coral and anemones. Hydrozoa includes the Portuguese Man o`War which contrary to popular belief is not an actual jellyfish but a massive colony of hydrozoans. The class Cubozoa contains box jellies, the deadliest creatures on Earth. True jellyfish belong to the class Scyphozoa which includes over 200 species.

Jellyfish at Sydney Aquarium
Jellyfish at Sydney Aquarium
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
Jellyfish exist in every ocean on the planet. They cover the entire spectrum of oceanic depths from shallow estuaries and lagoons to the deepest, largely unexplored regions of the aquatic domain. The most geographically diverse and easily recognizable of these creatures is the moon jellyfish (Aurelia) or common jellyfish which contains twenty separate species that are so identical morphologically that it takes DNA testing to distinguish one form another. From a non-scientific standpoint, moon jellyfish might as well be a single species.

Anatomically, jellyfish can best be described as a sac within a sac. They are composed of approximately 95% water, 3% salt and 2% protein. They have no eyes, no brains, and no supporting skeletal system but yet are one on the oldest multi-cellular creatures known to man. They existed long before the first dinosaurs roamed the Earth and will almost certainly still be here long after the human race has vanished. Without a brain, jellyfish have managed to survive three planetary wide extinctions: This alone bears testimony to their long term survivability as a life form. Jellyfish are one of the simplest multi-cellular organisms in existence. They are most accurately described as gelatinous zooplankton. The actual term jellyfish is a universal misnomer. Jellyfish are, of course, not fish. Jelly refers to the gelatinous substance that accounts for most of the mass in a jellyfish's umbrella or bell. This jelly (mesoglea) is surrounded by two layers of epithelial cells. The top layer forms the upper portion of the umbrella. The bottom layer forms the subumbrella or underbelly of the bell.

Jellyfish do not have specialized digestive, respiratory or circulatory systems. In fact, they don't even have blood cells. Oxygen is absorbed by simple diffusion through their thin outer membranes. A second membrane within the jellyfish contains a gastrodermal lining which forms a gastrovascular cavity. This primitive cavity functions in place of a digestive system. Nutrients are absorbed and distributed throughout the body. Jellyfish either have a single mouth or multiple mouth openings positioned on oral arms that function for both intake of nutrients and expulsion of waste products.

Jellyfish also lack any semblance of an advanced skeletal system. They have what is called a hydrostatic skeleton that provides structural integrity and allows for limited mobility. Hydroskeletons are common in many lower life forms, specifically cold blooded and soft bodied organisms. A hydroskeleton consists of fluid or gelatinous filled cavity called a coelom. The coelom is typically surrounded by muscular tissue or muscle-like membranes. As the muscle tissue contract or expand the pressure of the fluid in the coelom is changed. This change in fluid pressure is what allows jellyfish to change shape and achieve locomotion. Most jellyfish are poor swimmers. They spend the vast majority of their adult lives drifting haplessly on the ocean currents. Box jellies, however, are quite good swimmers. Sea nettles are such accomplished swimmers that they spend most of their time swimming, quite frequently against prevailing currents. This is why they appear to be swimming upside down.



2017-06-19

Aquarium Fish Care - BARB Care Tips For Beginners

Sumatra barbs, red barbs, rosy barbs and tiger barbs are all different varieties of freshwater fishes. They are easy to maintain and breed. But the larger barbs can only be kept with big fishes. The large barbs can cause trouble in communal tanks and destroy your structured plans. They require more attention than the smaller ones and therefore the barbs have to be separated and grouped.

The purple head barb and the black ruby are from Ceylon. These fishes grow to the size of around two and half inches and live in communal tanks well. The female ones create a colourful and vibrant environment by flaunting their grey-yellow bodies that also show stripes or dark blotches. The male lot are mostly either black or brown and/or have their fronts that are vermilion red.

Cherry barb, Puntius titteya
Cherry Barb - Photo by brian.gratwicke 

They are not like the boisterous group of Puntius Conchonius groups and live comfortably in communal waters. They are not finicky when it comes to food and they hence eat anything. They also have no demands when it comes to the water conditions, they are best suited for natural water which is hard water. These types of fish are also easy to breed. They lay around three hundred eggs and like other barbs also spawn.

The Sumatra and tiger fish belong to the species of Capoeta Tetrazona. These come from Sumatra and Borneo and grow up to two inches. They are colourful and set off the tanks with their colours and stripes. The fish keeps changing its behaviour and because of this nature it happens to be among the most diverse in the market. This is proved as some people say the fish is mild and calming while others refer to it as the bully who terrorizes the other fish!

The Sumatra and tiger fishes need the similar water conditions as compared to other barbs. They tend to live in the practical as well as impractical alkaline water. The fish does well in salt water too. The temperature that is recommended is 78 degrees Fahrenheit. These fishes have good appetites and they are not fussy and eat everything. Breeders will benefit as barb fishes are all healthy spawns.

Female Sumatra and tiger fishes are fat and differ from the male ones who are slim and colourful fishes. The female ones are quite ordinary and plain and they breed. They however do have some bladder problems and the fins have a tendency to go rot. The water hence should be clean and spotless. The tank also should be watched over during breeding as the spawns laid by the fishes are likely to be bitten by the mutants.


Capoeta Titteya or Cherry barbs are fishes that come from Ceylon too and they grow to the size of two inches. They are normally brownish-yellow in colour or brownish red. These fishes differ from the others to look at as they consist of top to bottom dark black lines. They are good communal fishes and require the same water and feeding conditions like the other barbs. The male in these are of darker colours and during breeding they undergo change in colours which appears to be black or even cherry red but the stripes evaporate eventually.

These barbs breed like the others too and even lay up to a number of 200 eggs. The cherry barbs consist of a wide variety and the fascinating thing is that while some types feed on other barbs itself; the other types don?t do this.

Concluding if you are a beginner then to get better acquainted with tips on aquarium and fish care you can check the new Harlequins line out.

    Abhishek is an avid Fish Lover and he has got some great Aquarium Care Secrets up his sleeves! 
    Article Source: EzineArticles


2017-06-18

Caring For A Pet SNAKE

When people think of pets, most of the time "furry" and "cuddly" are adjectives that come to mind. For the owners of pet snakes, however, these words don't really fit. Still, snakes make interesting pets, and can even be lovable - in their own way.

Photo Wikimedia

Choosing to own a pet snake should not be a snap decision. Snakes can grow large, eat a lot, and require very specific conditions for staying healthy. Some varieties can even be dangerous to humans. Providing for their needs can be quite expensive. To top it all off, snakes tend to have a long lifespan. For the sake of the snake, don't buy one without being sure you are ready to make the commitment.

All snakes are meat-eaters. Many snake owners keep live mice or rats, which multiply rapidly, as food for their snakes. It is recommended that snakes be fed pre-killed prey animals instead of live ones. Especially if the snake is not real hungry, a live prey animal can inflict injuries to the snake. Many snake enthusiasts order frozen mice for their snakes. Others raise mice and kill them as needed to feed their snakes.

The good part of feeding a snake is that most shouldn't be fed more often than once a week and some can go for several weeks between feedings. The reason is that they don't have to expend any energy creating their own body heat. In fact, if the cage is not warm enough, a snake can't even digest its food.

The enclosure, or cage, for the snake needs to be first of all escape proof. Snakes are escape artists, and don't need a very big opening in order to find a way out. The cage also has to have a source of heat. Because they are cold blooded, snakes must have a variety of temperatures to choose from. This is how they regulate their body heat. For best results, the enclosure should be heated on one side only and thermometers used on both ends. Each snake species has specific needs in terms of heat, and you should find out these needs before getting a snake.

Other needs include a bowl of water, several places to hide, and a floor lining. If you’re on a tight budget, newspaper works well for most snake varieties. It can easily be replaced when soiled. The water should be kept clean, too. Any wastes or uneaten food should be removed quickly. The cage should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected about once a month.



Keeping a pet snake is a responsibility that can also be an adventure. If you are a beginner, you should start with one of the easier snakes to keep. Do a little research, and you will find out that pet snake breeds are generally rated according to how hard they are to keep. In time, you will learn the ins and outs of snake keeping, and can expand your collection to include some of the more exotic types.




2017-06-17

Different Types of Pet Hermit Crabs

A hermit crab is a truly exotic pet. They might not be the first exotic pets you think of when you first think of exotic pets. You might first think of a tarantula, an iguana, or maybe you even know someone with a scorpion. While these pets are all most definitely exotic, hermit crabs are the definition of exotic. They generally come from a tropical climate where humidity and temperature are high in the daytime and where the evenings are just as muggy. Hermit crabs unquestionably fall into the category of the more unusual pets, such as those mentioned before. They make interesting, easy-to-care-for companions and, like any other pet, have their own personalities. By nature, they are active and curious. The unique characteristics displayed in each hermit crab, plus the fact that they are low maintenance, make them the perfect pet choice for many people.


Hermit Crab
Hermit crabs are not what we think of when we think of traditional crabs.  They have a much smaller, softer abdomen than the typical crab. Because the abdomens of these crabs are soft and small, they are vulnerable, so they must be protected. The way a hermit crab protects its body from the elements and predators is by taking up residence in a snail shell that has been previously discarded. As hermit crabs age and grow, they must continuously find new shells in order to have a shell that fits each time the crab grows a little. Therefore, hermit crab pet owners must provide a selection of hermit crab shells for your pet to choose from. The hermit crab will be able to choose the perfect size shell to fit comfortably on its body.

Hermit crabs, in the wild, are omnivores, meaning they eat a little bit of everything. They eat meats, vegetables, and fruit. They scavenge eating whatever they can find in order to survive. When you own a hermit crab, they can eat crab food with healthy veggie and meat snacks, or to take more time, you can feed them a balanced diet of what you might eat, such as grapes, carrots, and chicken.

As far as the type of hermit crabs that are usually found as pets in the United States, there are both land hermit crabs and marine hermit crabs. This article specifically talks about land hermit crabs, as the care for marine hermit crabs is much different. The two main species of hermit crabs that are the most popular in the U.S. are Coenobita clypeatus, also known as Caribbean crabs, land hermit crabs, or tree crabs. The other species is Coenobita compressus, also known as the Ecuadorian species, or known as E-Crabs. There are other species kept as pets in other parts of the world and can be found in the U.S. such as the Australian Hermit Crab and the Strawberry Hermit Crab. Though these species are generally found as pets in other places besides the United States, in larger pet stores in the U.S., different species are often available.


For the most part, land hermit crabs are easy to find in pet stores these days. They are becoming increasingly popular pets. One of the most important things to consider when selecting a pet is the care involved. If you are a busy person and don’t have time to put into a more needy pet, a hermit crab is relatively self-sufficient, and therefore an ideal pet for a busy person. At the time of purchase, check to make sure 3 sets of crab legs are present, he/ she is not damaged, and that there are no visible parasites. Try to pick a lively crab, and remember that the larger crabs are sturdier and less susceptible to disease and death. Whatever hermit crab you decide to choose, pick one you will love.



2017-06-16

Tips on Caring For Your RACHOW'S NOTHOBRANCH - KILLIFISH

Rachow's nothobranch or othobranchius rachovii belongs to the family Aplocheilidae. These fish are natives to regions of Africa where lakes and ponds evaporate and dry up in the dry season.

Because of their environmental challenges, the nothobranch has become commonly referred to as a killifish or an annual. If you are familiar with gardening you will know that an annual only lives a single season. They survive in nature by releasing their pollen to insure subsequent generations.

„Nothobranchius rachovii male“ von Andreas Wretström, Wikimedia Commons
Nature has equipped the killifish to adapt to their hostile environmental conditions in much the same manner. This species flourishes during the wet season. As the wet season draws to an end their habitat begins to disappear. They lay their eggs in the mud before the last of the water evaporates. Then they perish for lack of water. Their eggs, however, survive insuring the survival of the species. The eggs baked in dried up lake beds until the rains return. Undergoing this dry period has proven to be essential to the eggs hatching. When the wet season returns and the ponds and lakes start to fill back up the eggs hatch and the Rachow has triumphed over nature.

Killifish are found in every region of the world except northern Europe, Australia, and Antarctica. There are several genera and different species within each of these genera. A small number of species will shoal while most are territorial to varying degrees. Each has its own breeding habits and life span determined by it specific environmental conditions. But the Rachow's nothobranch killifish is known as an annual because it dies every year. Even in the relative safety of an aquarium the Rachow's nothobranch is victim to its evolution. They only live to 1-1.5 years.



These are small fish. A fully grown adult is only about two inches long. They thrive in slightly acidic water; pH 6.5 with a temperature range between 74-79 °F. They are considered a peaceful fish but a heavily planted mono-species aquarium is recommended.

Rachow's nothobranch are carnivores. They will readily eat live food such as brine shrimp, tubifex and bloodworms. They will also eat freeze-dried, frozen and meat based tropical flake food.

Breeding Rachow's Nothobranch

Breeding these unique fish is done differently than just about any other commercially available fish. Start by placing a 2-3 inch layer of peat on your existing substrate. The peat is for spawning. The killifish will bury their eggs in it. Once they eggs are deposited into the peat remove it from the aquarium. Allow the peat to dry and then place it in a plastic bag. Make sure there is no moisture left in the bag to prevent mold growth. Store the bag for 3-4 months.

After the eggs have undergone an extended dry period remove the peat from storage and place it in a breeding tank. Fry can be fed newly hatched shrimp brine, powdered fry food, or powdered eggs. Allow them to mature enough to hold their own before introducing them to the adult population in the main tank.


    By Stephen J Broy

    The latest trend among Saltwater Tank enthusiasts is raising pet jellyfish. Jellyfish need specially designed Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums. Jellyfish tanks are easier to maintain than traditional saltwater setups. Moon Jellies are the most popular jellyfish among home aquarists both for their exotic beauty and their ease of care. They have become so popular that two US based websites are now tank raising them to meet the growing demand. Pet Moon Jellyfish look absolutely incredible under a fading LED lighting system.

    Article Source: EzineArticles


Fact Sheet: PLATY FISH - Xiphophorus maculatus and Xiphophorus variatus

(Original Title: Platy Fish Fact Sheet)

2009-03 München 024
Photo by Allie_Caulfield
There are two species of Platy, Xiphophorus maculatus, and Xiphophorus variatus. Platys are closely related to Swordtails and Xiphophorus helleri, and Xiphophorus maculatus will freely interbreed with Swordtails. The interfertility of Xiphophorus variatus with the others two species may be less, but hybrids can occur. The Platies and Swordtails we buy are often not of pure species.

All three species come from Central America. Xiphophorus variatus, commonly called the Variatus Platy, appears to be able withstand slightly colder conditions than the other two species, and may be more suitable for an unheated tank in a reasonably warm house than the other species, but all are basically tropical fish. Platies tend to be shorter but thicker than Swordtails.

Water Conditions
The platy is a tropical fish and I recommend a temperature of 24 degrees C (75 degrees F). They prefer harder water with some salt in it although they are quite adaptable. The platy appears to be better able to survive higher Nitrite (NO2) levels than most fish, but these should normally be avoided for all fish.

Food
The Platy is an omnivore and will eat some algae as well as live food including Mosquito larvae (wrigglers) and Daphnia. They do well on all normal fish foods.

Companions
The Platy is a peaceful fish and is a good fish for a community tank of small peaceful fish. The Platy lacks the long fins of the Guppy and is a faster swimmer, so its companions can include some of the slightly aggressive fish that you would not put with Guppies. You need to avoid any large, aggressive or predatory fish.



Suitable companions include Rummy Nose Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras, Guppies, Endlers Guppies, Neon Tetras, Peppered Catfish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows and Zebra Danios. Most of these fish will eat baby Platies.

Pest Fish
Never release your pet fish or put them in the position of being accidentally released. The Platy has the potential to seriously damage fragile ecosystems.



2017-06-15

Do SIAMESE FIGHTING FISH Need Filters?

Does a Siamese Fighting Fish need a filter? The answer is yes and no. A Siamese Fighting Fish is a labyrinth fish, meaning that it is capable of removing oxygen from the air as humans do. So unlike most fish, a Siamese Fighting Fish does not need a filter to oxygenate the water in their tank. However, like most fish, a Siamese Fighting Fish has little tolerance for ammonia. 

"Memnon" a cambodian coloured male B...
"Memnon" a cambodian coloured male Betta
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
Ammonia poisoning is a common cause of death in Siamese Fighting Fish, simply because not enough water changes were performed when necessary. Ammonia in high levels will kill a Siamese Fighting Fish but the levels before this is enough to weaken a Siamese Fighter's immune system, leaving them vulnerable to bacteria and fungus infections. And this is why a Siamese Fighting Fish needs a filter.

If you are not prepared or have the time to set water and do waters changes every couple of days, then you may need to look at putting a filter in with your Fighter. With a good established biological filter in your fighter tank, water changes may be cut by more than half. Note established biological. This is not something that happens overnight or as soon as you turn your filter on. A good filter will work three ways in your tank, mechanical, chemical and biological.

Once you have set your filter up in your tank and turned it on the mechanical, which pulls debris into the filter starts working as well as the chemical aspect, removing certain, not all chemical and metals from the water. However it is the biological aspect that confuses most people.

Biological refers to the good bacteria necessary to break down fish waste, leftover food and other decaying matter. And there is only one way to get instant bacteria in a new filter, and that is by putting either sponges, bio-balls or filter wool from a filter that is already established into the new filter.

A simply water test will tell you if the filter is established or not. If the ammonia and nitrite readings are zero and there is a nitrate reading then the filter is established and some of it's filter media may be used to seed the new filter. However if there is any reading in either or both the ammonia and nitrite tests, then the filter is not fully established and not ready to seed a new filter. If asked some Local Pet Shops will sell you some of their filter media to seed your new filter if you do not have an established filter at home.

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You can establish biological in your filter from scratch, which can take between six weeks to six months depending on the method you use. But using your Siamese Fighting Fish is not a good idea at all. There is a good chance that your Fighter will not survive the cycling process, even with the help of live bacteria cultures that are available on the market today. While this information may sound daunting, time consuming or simply too difficult, ask yourself which do you prefer, water changes every couple of days or water changes when then nitrate reading is 20 (which depending on the size of your tank, filter and how you feed may be once a fortnight or month)?

Your Siamese Fighting Fish will be happier and his immune system better with an established filter in his tank, providing him with cleaner water for longer. Just watch that the current produced by the filter is not too fast for his long flowing fins. If your Siamese Fighting Fish suddenly goes into hiding, then you will need to slow the water flow down. This can be achieved by either controlling the output of the filter or using a spray bar to diffuse the water over a larger area.

The last important thing to remember with filters is that when you rinse them out when you do a water change, DO NOT USE WATER FROM THE TAP. Councils adds chlorine to our water to kill bacteria and this is what will happen to the good bacteria that you need in your filter. Rinse your filter out in water from your tank and by doing so save the bacteria that you need.

Cutting down time spent on water changes means more time spent enjoying your Siamese Fighting Fish.