The Various CICHLID DISEASES

Cichlids are a fairly hardy fish and their upkeep is reasonably simple supplied you stick to several simple principals. As hardy as they’re the cichlid fish can suffer from several diseases so with this write-up I have set out to clarify what they’re and what you are able to do about them.

Cichlids are a fairly hardy fish and their upkeep is reasonably simple supplied you stick to several simple principals. As hardy as they’re the cichlid fish can suffer from several diseases so with this write-up I have set out to clarify what they’re and what you are able to do about them.

Diseases in cichlid fish might be caused by parasites within the body, fungi on their exterior and also poor bacteria inside the tank water.

Issues that you simply wish to look out for are cloudy or puffy eyes, sores on their bodies, loss of color, restricted movement, bloating of stomach or internal organs. Any of these symptoms are normally caused by some sort of bacterial infection.

If you observe any strange looking growth around the face location or sporadic behavior in the tank like darting about in a crazy manner you could be looking at some sort of fungal infection.

If you see any weak breathing, impaired movement, mucus growth on the skin, loss of appetite, spots, intense scratching. These are typically the sign of parasite infection which could contain leeches, worms or lice.

Just concerning the most typical cichlid illness is Hole inside the head disease. Hexamita, normally results in rapid weight loss and a main loss of appetite, and also you will also notice small indentations on and around the head area.

Ich or Ichtyophthirius is also an additional widespread cichlid disease. With this distinct ailment whitened crystal marks show up on the head first, after which propagate over the whole body. Inhaling and exhaling is quickly, the fish scrapes a great deal, and also the eye balls and fins all turn into cloudy.

When the belly is enlarged, and also you uncover reddish scales encircling this location, it can be achievable that the cichlid is really struggling with Dropsy. This may possibly be because of germs, parasites, or even cancer. The most effective method to cope with this is saltwater therapy.

In case you neglect their water conditions then your fish may possibly end up with Fish Pox, Fin Rot or even Ammonia poisoning.

Columnaris or Cotton Wool Illness is one you must be quite wary of because it is very contagious. Symptoms is going to be a grey/white layer on the skin, fin harm, ulcers and sores, loss of color in the gills. You must treat this quickly having an excellent antibiotic kind therapy, and you may have to treat the complete tank. The exact same goes for Fish Tuberculosis which too is really contagious.

Yet another parasite sort infection is Slime Disease which causes a white coating of the skin, sporadic movement, reddening about the gills and also folded fins. You have to treat this straight away with a good parasitic medication and also by raising the water temperature a degree or two.

Cichlids may also endure from constipation which will cause a swelling of the stomach, loss of appetite, and erratic swimming. The fish might even have feces hanging off of them. The very best approach to fix this would be to starve them for two days then commence them on a various diet.

On the topic of diet plan should you over feed your fish they might wind up with Swim Bladder illness which will cause difficulty in swimming, swimming upside down, floating. Flip Over illness is also achievable with these symptoms.

One well-known way of dealing with diseases is salt treatment, but this should ideally only be done in a quarantine tank as other fish may be negatively affected. Plus it’s going to not guarantee a remedy for all diseases.

Now since an aquarium is such a modest closed atmosphere, with out proper monitoring and treatment can become a disease incubator. Typical cleaning of one’s tank and water will likely be your greatest weapon against disease in your aquarium.

It’s finest to spot these things as early as feasible so as to implement a remedy method before it can be too late….Excellent Luck

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When LIZARDS will not eat, they have to eat

Like any animal, lizards at times in captivity will need to be force fed. There are situations and conditions which will result in a lizard not eating on their own.

Some diseases lizards can get will result in seizures or a similar condition. It is imperative not to feed them during an incident like this. They will most likely not be able to swallow the food. It is best to seek the help of a veterinarian at this point. 

Fistful of lizard - Photo by jurvetson 

The animal will need to have a tube placed into their stomach to feed. If the animal shows no signs of seizures, they can be fed using a syringe. It is tricky to get their mouth open but should be possible using the syringe itself. 

Using the syringe, squeeze the processed food into the back of the throat, taking great care to avoid the trachea at the back of the tongue. Make sure to only offer as much food as the animal can handle. Larger lizards can obviously handle more food. 

It may also be possible to force-feed feeder insects. If the lizard is having digestive problems, however, the liquid substitute is much easier to digest, as much of the work is already done. Another advantage of liquid feeding is the fact that you control exactly what the lizard is getting into its diet.

For the vegetable part of the liquid diet, vegetable baby food works very well. This food is high in vitamins and can easily be digested by the lizard. Make sure to add in a calcium supplement to the food. Younger lizards need to be fed more often but in smaller quantities, while larger lizards will need to be fed less often, but with higher quantities per feeding.

You have to follow the natural way your lizard eats its food, as not to upset their natural metabolism. If your lizard eats both insects and vegetables, you can use a type of cat food (used for sick cats) if they will eat it. You can also try to add insect matter (use fresh insects) into the liquid mix.

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Big, Beautiful Parson's CHAMELEON

Out of all the chameleons in the world, the Parson's Chameleon is said to be the largest when it comes to weight. They reach the size of a house cat, and the tail can stretch to be longer than the body. These large reptiles are native to eastern Madagascar and are very popular among collectors due to their size and also the wide appeal of the chameleon's appearance.

Parson's Chameleon - Photo0: Wikimedia

These brilliantly colored lizards are characterized by their gray or brownish colorings as juveniles, but the colors and patterns change depending upon the different life stage they may be in. Dark banding runs diagonally across the thick body of this chameleon. In adulthood, colors that are present include greens and blues. Some males can exhibit orange eyelids and even yellow or white lips. A dorsal crest is sometimes present in males, as well as two rostral appendages. They look like two tiny horns.

The natural habitat for this amazing reptile is low and mid-altitude rainforests. They seem to have a preference of being near moving water and are very often found next to streams. They are very seldom if ever seen on the ground, instead preferring the canopy of trees and the security and prey they provide.

The Parson's chameleon is an omnivore, munching regularly on small lizards, birds and perhaps even small mice when it's looking for a meaty meal. Other items on the menu for this bruiser include leaves, flowers, and also many different kinds of fruits. For a water source, many owners choose to use some sort of drip system.

Chameleons are notorious for not drinking from standing water, preferring to take their hydration as it drips from leaves or trickles from a waterfall. Like other chameleons, the Parson's chameleon can extend its tongue to one and a half times its body length to capture prey.

Perhaps mostly because of its size, the Parson's chameleon seems to be popular with people who keep reptiles. It is a particularly slow moving specimen and may appear to be a bit lazy. This should not, however, fool you into thinking you can house this chameleon in a smaller sized cage. It still needs plenty of room to roam about. Room- sized cages that offer plenty of hiding spots seem to make the Parson's chameleon happy.

When it comes to home habitat, the Parson's chameleon has requirements that are similar to other chameleons. They need things to climb on, preferably live vegetation. They prefer the temperature to be on the warm side, up to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not dipping below 65 degrees at night. Humidity should be on the high side to mimic their natural habitat in the wild. We recommend 80 to 100 percent humidity levels.

Cages should be constructed from sturdy materials. No glass or plastic, as it doesn't allow for any air exchange within the cage. They live in the trees - they need plenty of ventilation. Parsons is a solitary creature and will exhibit signs of stress when they are subjected to overcrowding, and with Parsons, two's a crowd unless it's time to mate.

Breeding males will actually butt heads to try to establish who is more dominant. The females only breed once every two years. They can lay up to 25 eggs. The eggs incubate for an incredible twenty months.

Knowing what to look for when selecting a Parson's chameleon can help with your enjoyment of this fascinating reptile. Remember, the life span of these guys can be over six years. Check to see if the skin springs back when it is lightly pinched. If not, the chameleon is dehydrated. Also look to see how active it is. A reluctance to climb or even move about could be a sign that the reptile is not very healthy. Another point to look for is eyes that are constantly open. Chameleons are said to never close their eyes in the daytime.

As with any exotic, the best way to keep the Parsons Chameleon healthy is to maintain a habitat that resembles his native habitat as closely as possible. Learn about his geographical area and have the enclosure ready before you purchase your Parsons Chameleon.

By Vivian T Alsup Article Source: EzineArticles

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Add RED TAILED BALA SHARK to Your Tropical Fish Tank

Put a Shark in your Aquarium!

Bala Sharks can be a great addition to any fish tank.  It’s fun to boast among your friends that you have a shark swimming around in your aquarium at home.  Instantly they assume you have a ginormous shark.  Let’s put it this way – you can have a lot of fun talking about your Bala Shark

"Balantiocheilos melanopterus" by I, Lerdsuwa. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Bala’s are in the tropical semi-aggressive community and grow from 4″ to 17″ or more.  Bala Shark is versatile in the fish tank, they don’t hesitate to explore all levels in the water.  You can find the Bala’s shooting from top to bottom.  Bala’s are great for a community aquarium as they are non-aggressive.  The funny thing about Bala’s as they belong to the minnow family!  Their dorsal is what gives them the shark identity.  Bala sharks like to hop out of the water so if you don’t have the hood closed on your fish tank your Bala Shark may jump out and flop around on the floor.  A secure tight cover is number 1 with Bala’s.

Bala Sharks are omnivores so they can chow down on some meat or plants.  Prepared foods such as vegetables and live foods like worms suit the fish well for its diet. You can feed Bala Sharks fish flakes, frozen foods, live foods from tubifex worms to daphnia.  They even gorge down mosquito larvae, worms, and brine shrimp.  Remember to balance your Bala’s diet by tossing in some veggies.

For some reason fish like zucchini.  It’s the universal veggie, but peas and romaine lettuce will work too.  Feed what the shark will eat up to 3 minutes and alternate between meat and vegetation to keep your Bala’s diet in sync.

Tip Place your fish tank in a low traffic area away from exposing sunlight and AC/Heat vents to keep your tanks water temperature controlled. Other Bala Sharks include the Red-Tailed Bala (Aggressive fish), Red Spotted, Roselin, Silver-tip, Rainbow, and Variegated.

By Nathan E Peterson Article Source: EzineArticles

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Marine Aquarium Care - INVERTEBRATES Only

The care required for an invertebrate only tank is very similar to that of any other saltwater tank; however, the invertebrates are far less hardy than fish. It is recommended that you become skilled with a fish only tank before attempting an Invertebrate aquarium. Most Invertebrates require a specialized diet. Check with the supplier before purchasing and be sure that you are willing to make the commitment to have food delivered if necessary. There are two different types of invertebrates, tropical and cold water. Make sure that the type you are buying is compatible with its other tank mates.

Reef Aquarium - Photo by jimg944 

A few examples of tropical invertebrates are tube worms, red hermit crabs, cleaner shrimp and the sea apple. All of this marine life is compatible in terms of water conditions. They require a water temperature between seventy-five and seventy-nine degrees Fahrenheit, a P.H. between 8.2 and 8.4 and a salinity content of 1.020-1.024. As you can see, there is very little wiggle room associated with these measurements. It is extremely important to check the levels daily, or the results could be costly. These invertebrates are not compatible, however, with their food source needs. Check with the supplier for compatibility before combining tropical invertebrates.

Unlike their tropical counter parts, cold water invertebrates are usually not sold in stores. They have to be collected from tide pools. It is important to make sure that these species are not on the endangered species list before removing them from their home. It is equally important to do research in order to verify that you are able to properly feed them and care for their very specific needs. Sea Anemones, prawns, shrimp, and starfishes are a few varieties that have been successfully maintained in an aquarium. They require a water temperature between fifty-four and fifty-nine degrees Fahrenheit, a P.H. between 8-8.4 and a salinity content of 1.024-1.025. Luckily they do eat the same food. They feed off of a diet of small pieces of raw fish, shrimp, squid, and mussels.

When keeping cold water invertebrates such as the species mention above, it is a good idea to keep a separate tank full of shrimp, mussels, and scallops to be used as a food source if you wish to use fresh rather than frozen foods.  Be careful when keeping shrimp, as all of the invertebrates listed above feed on shrimp, including shrimp themselves. It is unlikely, however, that a healthy live shrimp will be eaten whole by another shrimp or starfish. Invertebrates should be fed more frequently in smaller amounts than fish. Try to feed only an amount that can be consumed in the first thirty to sixty seconds.

When setting up an invertebrate tank remember to include live rock, because some invertebrates feed on the parasites that grow on the live rock. A substrate should also be included in this type of aquarium. It will provide a place for the crabs and shrimp to dig and bury themselves. A light should be included as well if you intend to keep anemones.

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Multicolor ANGELFISH

The Multicolor Angelfish (Centropyge Multicolor) is a deepwater species that is sold from time to time in the marine aquarium hobby. Usually, the fact that it hails from deeper waters would mean it is a harder than normal dwarf angelfish to rear in captivity. This is untrue as far as the Multicolor angelfish is concerned.

The multicolor angel is an especially hardy member of the genus centropyge once it has been acclimated and adjusted to its new living quarters. Upon purchasing a specimen, they may be shy initially as they are used to waters without too much light. Multicolor angels are considered an aggressive species that will usually dominate smaller aquariums.

Their main body is mostly white with shades of orange, yellow and brown on its lower half. It also has a distinctive electric blue crown on its head. Its anal and dorsal fins are blue to black while its face and caudal fin are all yellow.

They do not tolerate other dwarf angels and will usually harass them to no end. Larger aquariums above 150 gallons are needed to keep another centropyge with the multicolor angelfish. They are considered an expensive fish, with prices ranging anywhere from $80 to $120 per specimen.

As they are from deeper waters, ensure there is no swim bladder damage present as it they can be damaged as the fish is brought up rapidly to the surface. Any specimen that is seen to be tilting side to side or from up to down should be avoided.

Feeding them is an easy matter as they will usual sample anything thrown into the tank once they recognize that you are a source of food. In the beginning they may be hesitant but this is usually taken care of over time. A good mix of foods including frozen meaty foods, greens and dry foods are a good way to ensure they get a balanced diet.

A specially formulated food for them is the Pygmy angel formula that is produced by Ocean Nutrition. This foods attempt so emulate their natural diet in the wild.

A dry pellet food that is suitable for the Centropyge Multicolor are from the New Life Spectrum line of pellets. A very balanced pellet, they are suitable not just for members of the genus Centropyge but also for surgeonfish, clown fish, damselfish and a host of other marine aquarium ornamental fish.

By Indran Manickam Article Source: EzineArticles

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DIAMOND KILLIFISH - Adinia xenica

Diamond Killifish - Adinia xenica

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