Preventing Overpopulation - KOI Pond

Koi overpopulation is one of the hardest problems to deal with when it comes Koi ponds. Once you have too many fish in your pond, severe problems can occur, and potentially cause death among your fish.

There are a few ways to help prevent overpopulation. While you are never guaranteed that it will never happen to you, following a few simple steps will greatly reduce your chances.  

Koi pond with an extensive filtration, build by Kent Wallace (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Do Not Overstock

A common problem new Koi pond owners run into is over stocking. When you first go to buy your Koi, it may come down to deciding between a number of Koi that is equally beautiful and playful in the spirit of saving your pond from over stocking. 

Talk with your Koi dealer or Pet Store professional about the specifics of your pond. You should tell them information about what type of filtration systems you have, what total size your pond is, and where you are planning on placing your pond. With this information, a professional will be able to adequately predict the right amount of Koi you can have in your pond successfully. Do not worry if this number seems small because the professional will also be taking into account the fact that Koi grow fast and get rather large.

Some people run into the problem of not being able to turn down Koi from others. When accepting fish from sources such as other Koi pond owners, take into account why they are giving you the fish. Chances are they are giving away fish because they are having issues with over population as well. Turning down fish does not mean that you are causing any damage to those fish, it simply means that their owner will have to find a different person to take the fish.

Once Overpopulation Has Occurred

In the event that overpopulation has already occurred in your pond,  there are several ways of removing babies from your pond. 

One way is to stop feeding your Koi the minute you realize that spawning has occurred. You should stop feeding your Koi for no less than three weeks. Do not worry about your Koi starving, as they will focus more on natural foods if you are not feeding them daily. This “natural” diet includes their young. Koi are not cannibalistic animals by any means, but they will eat their young when they are still eggs or if they are small and resemble insects. Once the baby Koi actually resemble real fish, and the adult fish recognize this, they will no longer see them as food, so it is important to start this process as soon as you notice spawning or babies.

While this is a process of nature, you may still find this method to be cruel or unusual. Another way of removing unwanted babies from your pond is to give them away.

First, check with your local pet store. Many pet stores have programs in which they will accept unwanted animals and give them good homes. Some may even pay a certain amount for each fish since they sell them but do not count of this. Local Zoos may also have programs.

If you know of a local Koi society, you may let them know that you have unwanted babies. Alternatively, you can find a message board or group online and post messages there. Who knows, you may even start another person on a Koi keeping hobby.

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SEA ANEMONE

Sea anemones are a very common offering in the marine aquarium trade. All types of species are brought in from carpet anemones, filter feeding tube anemones to rose bulb tip anemones.

Sea Anemones at California tideppols.
Sea Anemones look as plants,
but they are animals and they are predators.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

While most people think they are corals, sea anemones are actually under the phylum Cnidaria, which strangely enough, includes the jellyfish. They do share a common trait with corals, however. Within their bodies are contained symbiotic algae called zooxanthellae which extract energy from light and feeds the sea anemone with their by-products.

Where they differ spectacularly from corals are their ability to move from location to location. This behavior is commonly seen in captivity where the sea anemone will move around the aquarium until it has found a suitable spot.

Unfortunately, this behavior is undesirable mainly because their tentacles contain stinging cells used to capture prey and as a defense mechanism. As they move around the aquarium, they may come into contact with and sting any corals that are present.

The sea anemone shares a symbiotic relationship with a number of creatures in the wild. The most famous of their hosts are the clown fish family. They also play host to damselfish, certain crabs and a variety of anemone shrimp that rely on it for protection from predators.

They are a tricky species to care for in a marine aquarium as they require strong water flow and very strong lighting to do well in the long run. Should they die, they literally begin to melt. Which can really foul up the water?

Unfortunately, the great number of these creatures end up dying in captivity due to improper conditions. This is a shame because in the wild they are known to reach a lifespan of a hundred years or more. Some experts have pointed out that they may not even die if conditions remain good.

The family of Sea Anemone also contains a number of pests. Among them, the infamous Aiptasia and Majano anemones. Unlike their prettier cousins, these pests thrive in captivity and can quickly take over the entire aquarium.

By Indran Manickam - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Know Your PROTEIN SKIMMER Before You Buy It

Photo: Wikimedia

1. The protein skimmer can remove the organic wastes almost as soon as they are formed in your aquarium. That means you are able to eliminate them before they are disintegrated by the bacteria in the tank into a nitrogenous matter. Nitrogen in the tank can be harmful, as it will interfere with the properties of the water and even get converted into toxic forms that could be life-threatening to the inhabitants of the aquarium.

2. If you are continuously removing the organic protein wastes from the aquarium with the skimmer, it is obvious that the aquarium will not require frequent water changes.

3. Apart from the protein wastes, the protein skimmers are also capable of removing fatty substances that collect in the tank and some carbohydrates. Even organic molecules containing elements like copper can be eliminated.

How do you choose a Protein Skimmer for your Aquarium? But, though a protein skimmer is a very essential device, it is also one of the most expensive additions that you will make to your aquarium. That is the reason why you should buy the most suitable skimmer, as it will be a one-time expense you will make. A good protein skimmer will also be durable and will be with you for a long time.

Here are the different types of protein skimmers that are available in the market. You can decide what to buy after understanding the types available.

1. Co-current Protein Skimmers – Co-current protein skimmers are called so because here the water from the aquarium is made to move only in one direction (upwards), and the bubbles move along with the flow of the water. The exchange of wastes is done between the water and the bubbles as both moves towards the top, side by side.

2. Counter Current Protein Skimmers – In counter current protein skimmers, the bubbles move downwards for a while as the water moves in the upward direction. The bubbles move downwards for some time, till the exchange takes place and then they take the waste matter to the cup on the top. The advantage is that the counter current mechanism facilitates for better contact between the dirty water and the bubbles and hence more effectiveness.

3. Circulating Current Protein Skimmers – These are a new development, in which the mechanism is the same, but the water is made to enter into the protein skimmer a number of times through a circulating device. This increases the time of contact and ensures a high degree of purification of the water.

Your choice of a protein skimmer will certainly depend upon the type of aquarium and the budget. The co-current protein skimmers are the cheapest, and they are quite effective for small size freshwater and saltwater aquariums. Prices are high for the counter current variety, and the circulating ones are the costliest. But it you have a very large aquarium, like the ones they keep in commercial places, you will need a powerful protein skimmer. In such cases, counter current and circulating current protein skimmers become essential.

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RED DEVIL CICHLID - Amphilopus labiatus

Red Devil Cichlid - Amphilopus labiatus

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The Various CICHLID DISEASES

Cichlids are a fairly hardy fish and their upkeep is reasonably simple supplied you stick to several simple principals. As hardy as they’re the cichlid fish can suffer from several diseases so with this write-up I have set out to clarify what they’re and what you are able to do about them.

Cichlids are a fairly hardy fish and their upkeep is reasonably simple supplied you stick to several simple principals. As hardy as they’re the cichlid fish can suffer from several diseases so with this write-up I have set out to clarify what they’re and what you are able to do about them.

Diseases in cichlid fish might be caused by parasites within the body, fungi on their exterior and also poor bacteria inside the tank water.

Issues that you simply wish to look out for are cloudy or puffy eyes, sores on their bodies, loss of color, restricted movement, bloating of stomach or internal organs. Any of these symptoms are normally caused by some sort of bacterial infection.

If you observe any strange looking growth around the face location or sporadic behavior in the tank like darting about in a crazy manner you could be looking at some sort of fungal infection.

If you see any weak breathing, impaired movement, mucus growth on the skin, loss of appetite, spots, intense scratching. These are typically the sign of parasite infection which could contain leeches, worms or lice.

Just concerning the most typical cichlid illness is Hole inside the head disease. Hexamita, normally results in rapid weight loss and a main loss of appetite, and also you will also notice small indentations on and around the head area.

Ich or Ichtyophthirius is also an additional widespread cichlid disease. With this distinct ailment whitened crystal marks show up on the head first, after which propagate over the whole body. Inhaling and exhaling is quickly, the fish scrapes a great deal, and also the eye balls and fins all turn into cloudy.

When the belly is enlarged, and also you uncover reddish scales encircling this location, it can be achievable that the cichlid is really struggling with Dropsy. This may possibly be because of germs, parasites, or even cancer. The most effective method to cope with this is saltwater therapy.

In case you neglect their water conditions then your fish may possibly end up with Fish Pox, Fin Rot or even Ammonia poisoning.

Columnaris or Cotton Wool Illness is one you must be quite wary of because it is very contagious. Symptoms is going to be a grey/white layer on the skin, fin harm, ulcers and sores, loss of color in the gills. You must treat this quickly having an excellent antibiotic kind therapy, and you may have to treat the complete tank. The exact same goes for Fish Tuberculosis which too is really contagious.

Yet another parasite sort infection is Slime Disease which causes a white coating of the skin, sporadic movement, reddening about the gills and also folded fins. You have to treat this straight away with a good parasitic medication and also by raising the water temperature a degree or two.

Cichlids may also endure from constipation which will cause a swelling of the stomach, loss of appetite, and erratic swimming. The fish might even have feces hanging off of them. The very best approach to fix this would be to starve them for two days then commence them on a various diet.

On the topic of diet plan should you over feed your fish they might wind up with Swim Bladder illness which will cause difficulty in swimming, swimming upside down, floating. Flip Over illness is also achievable with these symptoms.

One well-known way of dealing with diseases is salt treatment, but this should ideally only be done in a quarantine tank as other fish may be negatively affected. Plus it’s going to not guarantee a remedy for all diseases.

Now since an aquarium is such a modest closed atmosphere, with out proper monitoring and treatment can become a disease incubator. Typical cleaning of one’s tank and water will likely be your greatest weapon against disease in your aquarium.

It’s finest to spot these things as early as feasible so as to implement a remedy method before it can be too late….Excellent Luck

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When LIZARDS will not eat, they have to eat

Like any animal, lizards at times in captivity will need to be force fed. There are situations and conditions which will result in a lizard not eating on their own.

Some diseases lizards can get will result in seizures or a similar condition. It is imperative not to feed them during an incident like this. They will most likely not be able to swallow the food. It is best to seek the help of a veterinarian at this point. 

Fistful of lizard - Photo by jurvetson 

The animal will need to have a tube placed into their stomach to feed. If the animal shows no signs of seizures, they can be fed using a syringe. It is tricky to get their mouth open but should be possible using the syringe itself. 

Using the syringe, squeeze the processed food into the back of the throat, taking great care to avoid the trachea at the back of the tongue. Make sure to only offer as much food as the animal can handle. Larger lizards can obviously handle more food. 

It may also be possible to force-feed feeder insects. If the lizard is having digestive problems, however, the liquid substitute is much easier to digest, as much of the work is already done. Another advantage of liquid feeding is the fact that you control exactly what the lizard is getting into its diet.

For the vegetable part of the liquid diet, vegetable baby food works very well. This food is high in vitamins and can easily be digested by the lizard. Make sure to add in a calcium supplement to the food. Younger lizards need to be fed more often but in smaller quantities, while larger lizards will need to be fed less often, but with higher quantities per feeding.

You have to follow the natural way your lizard eats its food, as not to upset their natural metabolism. If your lizard eats both insects and vegetables, you can use a type of cat food (used for sick cats) if they will eat it. You can also try to add insect matter (use fresh insects) into the liquid mix.

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Big, Beautiful Parson's CHAMELEON

Out of all the chameleons in the world, the Parson's Chameleon is said to be the largest when it comes to weight. They reach the size of a house cat, and the tail can stretch to be longer than the body. These large reptiles are native to eastern Madagascar and are very popular among collectors due to their size and also the wide appeal of the chameleon's appearance.

Parson's Chameleon - Photo0: Wikimedia

These brilliantly colored lizards are characterized by their gray or brownish colorings as juveniles, but the colors and patterns change depending upon the different life stage they may be in. Dark banding runs diagonally across the thick body of this chameleon. In adulthood, colors that are present include greens and blues. Some males can exhibit orange eyelids and even yellow or white lips. A dorsal crest is sometimes present in males, as well as two rostral appendages. They look like two tiny horns.

The natural habitat for this amazing reptile is low and mid-altitude rainforests. They seem to have a preference of being near moving water and are very often found next to streams. They are very seldom if ever seen on the ground, instead preferring the canopy of trees and the security and prey they provide.

The Parson's chameleon is an omnivore, munching regularly on small lizards, birds and perhaps even small mice when it's looking for a meaty meal. Other items on the menu for this bruiser include leaves, flowers, and also many different kinds of fruits. For a water source, many owners choose to use some sort of drip system.

Chameleons are notorious for not drinking from standing water, preferring to take their hydration as it drips from leaves or trickles from a waterfall. Like other chameleons, the Parson's chameleon can extend its tongue to one and a half times its body length to capture prey.

Perhaps mostly because of its size, the Parson's chameleon seems to be popular with people who keep reptiles. It is a particularly slow moving specimen and may appear to be a bit lazy. This should not, however, fool you into thinking you can house this chameleon in a smaller sized cage. It still needs plenty of room to roam about. Room- sized cages that offer plenty of hiding spots seem to make the Parson's chameleon happy.

When it comes to home habitat, the Parson's chameleon has requirements that are similar to other chameleons. They need things to climb on, preferably live vegetation. They prefer the temperature to be on the warm side, up to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not dipping below 65 degrees at night. Humidity should be on the high side to mimic their natural habitat in the wild. We recommend 80 to 100 percent humidity levels.

Cages should be constructed from sturdy materials. No glass or plastic, as it doesn't allow for any air exchange within the cage. They live in the trees - they need plenty of ventilation. Parsons is a solitary creature and will exhibit signs of stress when they are subjected to overcrowding, and with Parsons, two's a crowd unless it's time to mate.

Breeding males will actually butt heads to try to establish who is more dominant. The females only breed once every two years. They can lay up to 25 eggs. The eggs incubate for an incredible twenty months.

Knowing what to look for when selecting a Parson's chameleon can help with your enjoyment of this fascinating reptile. Remember, the life span of these guys can be over six years. Check to see if the skin springs back when it is lightly pinched. If not, the chameleon is dehydrated. Also look to see how active it is. A reluctance to climb or even move about could be a sign that the reptile is not very healthy. Another point to look for is eyes that are constantly open. Chameleons are said to never close their eyes in the daytime.

As with any exotic, the best way to keep the Parsons Chameleon healthy is to maintain a habitat that resembles his native habitat as closely as possible. Learn about his geographical area and have the enclosure ready before you purchase your Parsons Chameleon.

By Vivian T Alsup Article Source: EzineArticles

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