Aquarium and Fish Care

2018-03-31

Choosing PLANTS for Your BETTA FISH Tank

Betta fish use plants as a defensive strategy in their natural environments. This allows them to avoid contact with predators and other male Bettas Nervous or threatened-feeling Bettas will squeeze through close together plants to escape danger. Because of this, it is important to include some kind of plant in your Betta's tank, to reduce stress and allow it to feel that it can hide.

While some people prefer artificial plants in their aquariums, live plants help to take care of harmful chemical byproducts in the tank, such as ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. They also perform the important function of gas exchange, keeping the water more oxygenated than an environment without plants or with artificial plants. Soft and leafy plants are preferred, to prevent damage to the Betta's scales should it squeeze between leaves or branches.

Plants do require light, however. An aquarium with live plants should have either access to sunlight or a light built into the hood. Some plants which are recommended for use with Betta fish are the floating Water Sprite, Hornwort, and Elodea. Tiger Lotus is considered good for use in tanks with breeding Bettas since it puts out a lily-pad-like leaf that sits on the surface of the water. Male Bettas use this leaf to shelter their bubble nests. Be sure to keep an eye on your Betta tank's plants, since dead and rotting vegetation can be bad for the water quality. Java Moss and Java Ferns can thrive in uncycled bowls without any filtration. They also require low to medium light and are thus suitable for aquariums or enclosures that cannot be put close to a window.

Live plants for your Betta tank can be found locally from some aquarium stores or ordered from the Internet. All plants should be bright green and very healthy looking. They should also be quarantined before placing them in with the fish, to make sure that they do not carry diseases or parasites that could harm your Betta Be sure to acquire plants from a reputable source. It is wise to do some research on your supplier before purchasing live plants for your Betta tank. Bettas tend to interact more with live plants than with artificial plants. Many types of artificial plants are also rough and could damage fins and scales. Unlike fake plants, real ones will also sway attractively in the water as the fish swims through them. When the time comes to clean the tank, some plants can be gently removed and rinsed if this is desired. This is particularly easy when using free-floating plants like the Java fern.

beta fish plants

http://www.bettafishcenter.com

EzineArticles

2018-03-28

TIGER SHOVELNOSE CATFISH - Pseudoplatystoma Fasciatum

TIGER SHOVELNOSE CATFISH - Pseudoplatystoma Fasciatum

2018-03-27

Tropical Fish Overview - DANIO

Photo by Katty Fe

Looking for a companion to your Bala Shark or another tropical fish? Then look no farther than Danios. These fish are tough, highly vigorous, and have a mild temper. These fish are great for your home aquarium and suggested to be your first fish.

You want one-quarter of an inch of gravel on the bottom of your tank, with the heater adjusted between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The longer you keep your fish, you can slowly adjust the temperature to a point to where you do not even need a heater.

When buying food for your new fish, it is recommended you use freeze dried worms and brine shrimp. Danios are a community fish and prefer to live in groups of a minimum of 6 fish.

These beautifully long, sleek and shiny fish are a wonderful addition to your aquarium. Danios originate in freshwater rivers and streams of Southeast Asia. These fish are becoming more widely known as new species have been found in Myanmar. They can grow between 4 cm to 15 cm and are not expected to live more than a few years at most.

The Danio are wonderful fish to have with other types of fish. They can be unruly and have a tendency to chase one another and your other fish. This tends to lead to nipping of fins, although most of the time it was an accident. They will eat any fish small enough to fit in their mouths.

When preparing your water, you need to make sure the pH balance is between 6.0 to 8.0, and the water hardness of 5.0 to 19.0, with a temperature difference of 68 to 80 degree Fahrenheit, however, cooler temperatures are preferable.

If you choose to breed your own Danios, you might want to arrange a smaller tank for the babies. Also remember that they like to scatter their eggs, which do not adhere to anything, and hatch within 2 to 3 days. Remember - their eggs make easy prey if there is not a heavy layer of marbles or Substrate plants.

Submitted by: Lee Dobbins

About the Author: Lee Dobbins writes for Fish Tank Guide where you can learn about fish tank care and types of tropical fish such as Danios.

Source: www.isnare.com

2018-03-26

The Feeding and Nourishment of a HERMIT CRAB

Blackeyed hermit crab (Pagurus armatus, armed hermit crab), taken in Victoria, BC, Canada (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In nature, a hermit crab is omnivorous. This means that hermit crabs eat a little of everything including plants and meats. While they are in captivity as a pet, their diet should either be based on a commercial diet with crab food and supplements of natural foods, or a natural diet consisting of foods you yourself might eat. Whatever you feel is best for your hermit crab, they are both adequate to nourish your crab.

As far as commercial food goes, there are several different types of crab food. Ask your local pet store specialist which they would recommend. Crab foods come in pellets or granules. If you are planning to use pellets, they should be crushed into a powder, to make it more easily accessible for your hermit crabs, especially if you plan to purchase a small crab. You can feed other commercial pet foods like reptile food or fish flakes. Whichever you choose, commercial foods need to be supplemented by natural treats. Veggies and fruits are great supplements to a commercial foods diet. Cooked chicken is also a great thing to treat your crab to every now and then.

Commercial diets are very convenient and most are fairly well-balanced. However, the best diet for your hermit crab is a diet full of natural foods only. Fruits that may be fed include mango, papaya, coconut, grapes, and bananas. Veggies that are appropriate to feed your hermit crab are carrots, spinach, broccoli, and seaweed. There are many more foods that are available to feed your hermit crab on a natural foods diet. A care sheet containing all the available foods can be picked up at most decent sized pet stores. Avoid starchy veggies like potatoes as well as avoid dairy products. You might find that your crab likes sweets or salty junk food. This should be rarely given for snacks, as it is not good for the hermit crab anymore than it is for people.

Besides being fed, hermit crabs need calcium. Some ways to provide calcium for your hermit crab are cuttlebone, found in most pet stores in the bird section. This can be broken up or given whole. There are also calcium supplements that can be given to the hermit crab besides cuttlebone. Also, crushed oyster shell, coral sand, and cleaned crushed eggshells all contain calcium for the hermit crab.

Besides food and calcium, hermit crabs need water. Purified water is the only water that will do. Chlorinated water is not acceptable to give to hermit crabs because it can harm their modified gills, causing blisters on them if repeatedly exposed to it. Needed is a water dish large enough for the required natural sponge and for the hermit crab to soak in. Be careful to offer a place for smaller crabs to get out of the dish so they do not drown.

This first water dish is to contain fresh water. There is needed a second dish that should contain salt water, for the hermit crab. They have access to the saltwater in their natural habitats. A sea sponge should also be placed in this container as well. Feeding and providing water for your crab is a vital part of the hermit crab’s survival. Research as much as you can where this is concerned, as hermit crabs are not just throw away pets.

2018-03-25

A BRISTLENOSE PLECO Profile

Photo by mrpotet

The Bristlenose Pleco is one of the most popular aquarium fish around the world today but there is some confusion about certain aspects of its naming and exactly what is being referred to when certain names are used. Therefore if you feel you'd like to get to the bottom of how it all fits together and how best to look after these extraordinary fish them please read on.

Bristlenose Pleco is the common name given to the genus Ancistrus which is made up of over 140 species of catfish which come from rivers and streams in South America. Interestingly the name Bristlenose Pleco is not the only common name that they are known as. In Australia, they are predominantly known as Bristlenose Catfish but in other parts of the world including Canada, the USA, and the UK they are known as Bristlenose Plecos or simply Plecos or Plecs.

Therefore if you are new to the world of Bristlenose then be careful as the name Pleco can also be applied to many other genera of Catfish outside the genus Ancistrus, as well. So what you may find in some instances is, when Pleco is used, it may not necessarily be in reference to Bristlenose.

The next important point to understand is that the most common species within the genus is A. cirrhosis or simply the Common Bristlenose. The Common Bristlenose is normally identified by it's a brown color with lighter colored spots but it's also important to know that there is also an albino color variation as well. Both of these color variations also come in what is known as shortfin and longfin varieties, so all up there are 4 different variations of the Common Bristlenose.

A. cirrhosus was also once known as A. dolichopterus. As a consequence when you see the name A dolichopterus it may be incorrectly referring to A. cirrhosus or it could be referring to the real A. dolichopterus which is also known as the Starlight Bristlenose or simply L183. Therefore look for clarification when you do see this name.

This then leads into what is known as the L Number System. Many members of the Catfish family, Loricariidae of which Ancistrus species are a member are allocated what is called an L Number. This is applied to species that have not yet been scientifically classified as a means of identifying them. You may also find that some species have more than one L Number due to being named in different locations which can also lead to some confusion.

Therefore you will find that most Bristlenose Plecos are referred to by their species name or their common name or an L Number or even a combination of any of these.

So as you can see the naming of the Bristlenose Pleco can be a little confusing but luckily for the enthusiast their ease of care is much simpler. Simply ensure the water is heated to between 20 to 27 deg C, it is fairly well oxygenated, there is some sort of current and the pH is slightly acidic. These conditions replicate those of much other fish as well and as such the Bristlenose is well suited to be kept with many different types of freshwater fish.

This is of course just one of the reasons why they are so often called upon as the number one choice for an algae eater in so many community tanks. Therefore you would think that feeding would be pretty straightforward as well and in many respects it is.

Firstly, don't assume that they will survive on just foraging for algae. They do like some added vegetables as well. Blanched zucchini, carrots, and broccoli are all favorites. Also, add the occasional algae wafer and meat-based food and they will be extremely happy. The most important factor though is that plant-based foods should make up the majority of their diet as too much protein can lead to constipation and bloat, which can be fatal.

So now hopefully you'll understand what is being referred to when the many different terminologies are used to describe the Bristle-nose Pleco. They are fairly easy to care for as well but just make sure you get the essentials right and your Bristlenose Pleco will live a long, happy and healthy life.

The Bristlenose Pleco is just such a useful and likable freshwater aquarium fish. They are easy to look after and breed but just like the most thing it does pay to do some quality research if want to keep and breed the Bristlenose Pleco successfully. Find out more at my Bristlenose Pleco blog.

Article Source: EzineArticles

2018-03-24

MAUI OCEAN CENTER

Photo by maveric2003

The ocean center has a huge aquarium that has water filtered into it from the Bay. This aquarium is as real as it gets. This tank has a tunnel that you can actually walk through. This makes for great pictures. You can get a picture of yourself standing face to face with a sand shark. While walking through the tunnel, you will see sharks and rays, and tons of different types of fish.

The best thing about the tunnel is that you can see the underside of the creatures as they swim above you. The tanks also boast a coral and tropical fish display that will amaze anyone. The coral itself is breathtaking. In fact, this coral collection is the largest of any aquarium in the world.

Another amazing display inside the aquarium is the giant cylinder columns of jellyfish. They are several feet wide, and you can watch the jellyfish float above you. The sight of these creatures is both terrifying and mesmerizing at the same time.

Next, you move along through the aquarium to the sea turtles tanks. These sea turtles have been injured at some point in their lives and their stay at the aquarium is only a temporary one. They will be reintroduced back into their natural habitat once they have recovered. This is my favorite exhibit in the aquarium. If you happen to visit during feeding time you can actually feed the turtles. It's great to watch these huge docile creatures chomping happily on their lunch.

The ocean center also has an interactive display of whales, where visitors can learn about these giant mammals. Whale watching is a big hobby in Hawaii. There are several whale watching tours available. Turtle Bay resort located on the north shore of Oahu boasts that during the winter you can actually see whales from your balcony.

The Maui Ocean Center is a perfect place for families to visit. They offer a wide variety of exhibits for children that are both informative and exciting. There is also a touch pond, where children can pick up some of the creatures and actually handle them. They can see sea stars and sea urchins, as well as skates and rays. Be careful when stroking rays, however, you should always stroke them from head to tail in order to avoid being stung by there tails.

No kid friendly aquarium would be complete without food. The ocean center offers a café where you can grab lunch. They have light fare such as salads and sandwiches, and of course, ice cream. Also, don't miss the great picture taking opportunities that the center has to offer. Along the backside of the aquarium, there are some spectacular views of Ma'alaea Bay, and there is a dolphin statue located in the very front of the center that also makes for a great souvenir photo.

2018-03-23

Aquatic Plants - JAVA MOSS

Photo by AJC ajcann.wordpress.com

Many fish species from all over the world like to spawn among Java moss plants in the aquarium even when Java moss cannot be found in their native habitat. Java moss will also provide fry with an ideal hiding place where they can avoid being eaten by adult fish. Since infusoria appreciate the moss as a home, the really small fry will have access to tiny food that they can feed on until they are large enough to eat bigger food types.

Java moss does not have to be planted in the substrate; you can simply tie it to a piece of aquarium decoration or leave it floating around in the aquarium. A free-floating piece of Java moss can, however, be sucked into the filter, so most aquarists prefer to attach the Java moss to something or plant it in the substrate. It can actually do well even above the surface as long as the air is moist. It is, therefore, a great plant for open aquariums and paludariums.

When you attach the Java moss to rock, wood or any other type of aquarium decoration you can for instance use fishing wire. Be careful not to use materials that can pollute the water, e.g. copper wire. The moss will instantly start growing small roots (so-called rhizoids) and try to attach itself to the surface. After a while, the fishing wire is no longer needed since the plant will be secured by the rhizoids.

The moss is a very fast growing plant, and when you have purchased one plant you can easily use it to create new plants for other parts of the aquarium. It can be propagated by simply splitting the plant and moving one of the parts to another place. The moss will often propagate itself in the aquarium since small pieces will fall of the main plant and drift around in the water until they find a new place where they can attach themselves. The moss will also form red-brown sporocarps.

The moss will endure a wide range of different water conditions and temperatures. It is native to warm waters and the preferred temperature range is therefore 64°-86° F (18°-30° C). It will also appreciate a pH between 5.8 and 8.0 but can sometimes adapt to more acidic conditions. Unlike many other tropical plants, this moss does not require strong light and it will actually do best in low or medium strong light. Algae can be a problem for the moss since excessive algae growth on the leaves can harm and even kill the plant.

Allen Jesson