CARDINAL TETRAS - Red Cardinals to Enhance the Beauty of Your Aquarium

Cardinal tetras Paracheirodon axelrodi waking up in an aquarium. Just after the lights were turned on. Its skin yet in a pink tone.
 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Originating from South America, Cardinal tetra fish are very common among the fish-keepers and are found in many aquariums and tanks all over the world. They are freshwater fish and easy for the beginners.

Their body is decorated with a blue line dividing the body. The body carries red stripes which are longer. Actually, that is the distinguishing feature between a cardinal tetra and neon tetra fish. If the stripes are short, the fish is neon tetra.

In fact, the name cardinal tetra comes from this red color. It resembles the red robes which are worn by the Cardinals!

Cardinal tetras are difficult to breed in captivity so their availability is always lesser than the demand. Many pet fish stores sell cardinal tetras which are caught from their natural habitat. They are not endangered species and they are found in plenty.

They have a very short life-span of about a year, so their entire life cycle including reproduction finishes during this period. However, if you provide the ideal conditions for them in your aquarium, they can live a much longer life.

They will grow only up to 2 inches in length so they don't require a large aquarium. You can accommodate them even in a small tank of 5 gallons. As they are peaceful by nature, you can keep them in community aquariums also. Most of the time, they stay in the middle of the water so you can keep other bottom-dwelling or surface swimming fish with them.

There is no problem while feeding cardinal tetras. They can accept all types of food including vegetables, flaked food and live food like brine shrimp or blood-worms.

If you can provide the environment which resembles in South American rivers where they are found, they will live happily for a long time. The pH level of the water should be lower and the temperature of the water should be around 72-82 degrees F. They can survive even in the higher temperatures. The hardness of the water should be moderate.

Only important factor while keeping cardinal tetras is the level of toxic elements in the water. They are sensitive about the nitrates and nitrites in the water and you should set up a good filtration system to keep the water clean. In addition, you should make frequent replacements of the aquarium water.

You should provide a thickly planted aquarium for the cardinal tetras with preferably an open swimming area. There should be some floating plants in the aquarium because which will provide ideal places for cardinal tetras to hide. They do not like bright lights so the lighting in the aquarium should be moderate and the aquarium should not be in the direct sunlight.

As tetras, on the whole, are schooling fish, cardinal tetras are not an exception. While buying them, you should buy at least a group of 7-10 so that they will be happy to live with their friends. The beginners may think that this number is large but considering their easy maintenance and feeding habits, the whole group will be very colorful and lively for your aquarium.

The breeding of cardinal tetras is difficult because the fry are very delicate and sensitive to the environment and very few of them can survive. In addition, the adults eat the eggs and also the fry so it becomes very difficult for the beginners to protect the young ones.

However, those who want the enjoyment of a colorful and lively aquarium without many efforts then always go for cardinal tetras.

By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. Article Source: EzineArticles

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ALGAE Problems in aquarium tank: simple and effective solutions

Photo: Wikimedia

Eradication of encrusting algae could be done simply by periodically scraping the sides of the aquarium or scrubbing the rocks.

For those with plastic plants and a completely white gravel bed, the situation could be more tasking as it would be necessary to bleach the rocks to remove all traces of algae.

However, if you do this, do make sure that you rinse the gravel thoroughly afterwards. Bleach is highly toxic, and even small amounts can have a drastic effect on the aquarium fish.

Since the primary cause of green algae is too much light. The first step in the treatment schedule should be light reduction then partial water changes and an adequate stocking of natural aquarium plants. A final treatment with an algal remedy should ensure that the problem is eradicated and is at least kept at bay for some time.

One of the factors mentioned above is the use of natural aquatic plants as a means of control. This is really more effective than many people think.

For a start, luxuriant plant growth will filter out some of the light keeping algae in check. In addition, plants absorb a large variety of chemicals from the water, thereby starving algae of some of their essential nutrients e.g. nitrates (not nitrites).

Surprising though it may seem, and adequate plant stocking level is approximately 50 small plants per square root of available space. The last treatment mentioned is the use of an algaecide. I must stress the word "use:" - it is very different to "abuse"!

Yet despite this difference, I know that some people will still persist in pouring the chemical remedy into their aquarium and expect the problem to disappear overnight, even though they have done absolutely nothing to alter the conditions in the tank that brought about the problem in the first place.

The conditions I stated above have to be adhering to for any lasting effect to occur! Now that we know how to curb the menace of the green algae, we shall discuss its "sister" - the brown encrusting algae whose case is the reverse of the green.

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CORAL BEAUTY ANGELFISH - Centropyge bispinosus

Coral Beauty Angelfish - Centropyge bispinosus

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Tips on CORAL BEAUTY ANGELFISH Care

Centropyge bispinosa (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Coral Beauty Angelfish or Centropyge bispinosus are members of the family Pomacanthidae. This species is indigenous to the Indo-Pacific, from East Africa to the Philippine Islands. Most of the coral beauties made available for the aquarium industry originate from Fiji.

This fish lives up to its name. Their heads, upper body region, and dorsal fin are bright blue or purple. This primary coloration fades into yellow or orange transitioning into a shade of pink at mid-body. Thin vertical banding of the primary body color breaks up this transition. Pectoral fins are typically orange or yellow. Anal and caudal fins are blue or purple. All but the pectoral fins are frequently outlined in neon blue. This species is also sold under the trade names Twospined Angel or Dusky Angelfish.

This is an excellent choice for amateur aquarists who want to own their first angelfish. They have all the exotic beauty one expects in a marine angelfish. They only grow to an adult length of 4 inches. So you don't need an enormous aquarium to house them. They can be raised in a tank as small as 30 gallons. Most angels carry a moderate to expert care level (depending on the informational source). Coral beauties are one of the hardiest angelfish. These fish have an easy care level so they are perfect for novice saltwater aquarium owners. Regardless of size, most angelfish are labeled as semi-aggressive. This species is among the most peace-loving of all angelfish. They may pick on smaller fish or fight with similar looking species as they mature but they do not demonstrate near the instinctive territorial behavior of most angels. More experienced aquarists will enjoy the fact that this species is rated reef safe if it is introduced to a marine reef environment as the juvenile and is well fed as an adult. All of these factors make the coral beauty one of the most popular and commonly kept angelfish in home aquariums.

This is an omnivorous species. Juveniles are primarily planktonic feeders. An adult's diet consists largely of algae. You will need to supply your aquarium with plenty of cured live rock to ensure the general health of any marine angelfish. Coral, crustaceans, mollusks, and worms comprise the remainder of an adult's dietary intake. This is why you want to introduce this species to a reef set up when they are still juveniles. The trick is to get them accustomed to aquarium food and algae as their total dietary intake before they develop their adult taste buds. Feeding should take place 2-3 times a day.

Like most angelfish, this is a hermaphroditic species. They are born of indeterminate sexuality. They will then develop into females. In a population consisting exclusively of females the largest, most dominant fish will undergo a hormonal change until it transforms into a male.

Coral beauties are one of the few marine species that have been known to breed in home aquariums. Breeding is induced by the release of a gamete, or sex cell, into the water. The gamete's presence will make this species feel the need to spawn. Spawning occurs shortly before dusk in their natural environment. In an aquarium, spawning is just as cyclic. Spawning will take place precisely one hour before the lights turn off in an aquarium with a timer. The fact that breeding habits make the transition into captivity is truly phenomenal.

Courtship begins with the male dashing around erratically in a pre-mating dance. Once the female is attracted, the perspective mates will then begin swimming side by side. The two will then seek out the most turbulent area in the aquarium. This is generally found next to the power head. The male will rub his nose against the female's side. The female will respond by expanding her fins in a seductive manner and then dashing off so as not to be thought of as an easy target for the male's affection.

Once the courtship rituals are completed, the female will release a small clutch of eggs (usually 12-20) one at a time for fertilization. The eggs are left to float away. Juveniles are platonic feeders. Fry must be fed newly hatched brine shrimp in order to increase their likelihood of survival.

By Stephen J Broy Fish are not the only pets you can keep in an aquarium. Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums are the latest trend in aquarium ownership. Moon Jellyfish & Pet Jellies are some of the most exotic creatures you can keep in a home aquarium. Article Source: EzineArticles

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How To Care For POND PLANTS

Floating lilies, the sunlight showing its delicate petals structure and waxed leaves adapted for floating. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Ponds could not be more exciting for the backyard gardener. Flowing water and the excitement of enjoying a balanced aquatic ecosystem is unmatched by traditional gardening. A key piece to pond care includes water plants. The purpose of this article is to introduce water plant care to the pond hobbyist.

The “season” for most water plants along the Central Coast is spring. Starting in March, you’ll begin to see water plants become available at local nurseries. This is also the time when you’ll need to prepare your pond for the coming “push” of growth. This begins with the removal of unwanted “trash” and “rotting” plant material. In some cases, some plants will be ready for “dividing.” You’ll need to prepare for new additions to your pond as well. Thinning out floating plants by removing larger, older material is a good idea; crowded individuals display less flowering and stringy, non-energetic growth.

Feeding your aquatic landscape is the next important step in care and maintenance. Aquatic plants have all the same nutrient requirements as the plants you’ll find in your garden. Fortunately quite a bit of nutrient required by water plants are met with ambient water soluble materials and fish wastes. That said, I encourage every hobbyist to apply fertilizer spikes or “tablet” slow-release fertilizers to their plants in the spring.

It is worth touching on pests and disease of water plants as well. Fortunately, water plants don’t have nearly the number of problems our landscape plants face. The best solution is to avoid buying or collecting diseased specimens. Inspecting and quarantining new introductions and relying on a reputable dealer is your safest bet.

Fungus problems tend to be the most significant issue facing water plants. There are several “plant dips” and treatments that will help to control fungus. The most common baths incorporate either the strong oxidant, potassium permanganate or aluminum sulfate. Concentrations and instructions for their use are enclosed with their packaging. but basically a solution is prepared and the new plant material emerged for several minutes. The plants are subsequently rinsed and placed. If you do nothing else with new arrivals, be sure to look them over carefully, trim off dead/dying material, scrape away snail and insect eggs and hose off vigorously before putting them in your pond.

When it comes to pests, there are a few to mention. Aphids can be a real challenge given that their piercing and sucking of plants above water (especially lilies) can cause trouble. Watch for the appearance of winged females in the spring when they descend from certain species of nearby trees. If you act quickly, small populations of their offspring may be washed off by a strong blast of water. There some species of flies and beetles that also prey on aquatic plants. In most cases, they can be treated by removing the affected parts of the plants.

Fish can also be a problem for water plants. Many folks are recommended to plant directly into planting baskets or in areas where fish cannot nibble at roots and foliage. There are certain varieties of plants that fish will not even touch. Water plants offer a really exciting complement to a pond ecosystem. With the right care, feeding and maintenance, your pond will exceed your wildest dreams and bring years of beauty and enjoyment.

Steve McShane is Founder, Owner and General Manager of McShane’s Nursery & Landscape Supply. Steve is a Soil Science Graduate from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo and has his MBA from Santa Clara University. Email Steve: steve@mcshanesnursery.com Article from articlesbase.com

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New World CICHLIDS

Female Apistogramma nijsseni in mating colors (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

New World Cichlids can be found in the continents of North America, South America, and Central America. These fish make wonderful pets due to their unique colors, their interesting personalities, and the ease with which they may be maintained.

The angelfish is one of the most common New World cichlids. A South American cichlid, the angelfish is beautiful and queenly but needs very specific water conditions. Angelfish are generally triangular-shaped with long, string-like fins trailing behind them and sometimes a stripe or two across their backs.

Another common New World cichlid is the convict, so named because of its feisty temperament. Convict cichlids may be bullies but they can live in a wide variety of aquarium conditions and are easy to keep and breed. Convicts can be identified by their light blue bodies and the dark black, zebra stripes across their backs.

The Jack Dempsey is also a favorite among cichlid lovers. Like the convict, the Jack Dempsey can be moody, and as an adult, he can grow up to nearly a foot in length. Jack Dempseys are dark brown but males usually have splashes or dots of bright blue or green on their sides and humps on their foreheads. Jack Dempseys are easy to keep and need large open spaces as well as caves to hide in.

Oscar (Astronotus ocellatus), a popular aquarium fish from South America.  (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In the wild, North and Central American cichlids are found in rivers and lakes. Some lay their eggs in the sand of the river bottoms while others lay them simply on top of rocks at the bottom of the lake in which they reside. Some even make their homes in tiny underwater caves and tunnels. South American cichlids are usually found in water conditions that are more acidic such as black water regions in the Amazonian basin.

The aquarium requirements for these types of fish vary according to their natural habit. North and Central American cichlids are more adept at adapting to vary aquarium conditions but need good hiding places or caves in their aquarium for refuge. These should not be kept in any tank with a length of fewer than 48 inches.

The South American cichlid usually needs much more specific water conditions in the aquarium in which it is kept. The pH balance of the water needs to be quite low - sometimes as low as six - and the water itself needs to be very soft. Plants are popular with the South American cichlid, although certain species may cause havoc to underwater plants.

One of the best things about New World cichlids is that there are so many from which to choose. The variety available among these species of fish is simply astounding and there is always something new to discover. New World cichlid fish can be a joy to take care of and a delight to own.

By Tim Jacob Carter - Article Source: EzineArticles

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How That BETTA FISH Became Your Finned Friend: The Origins Of BETTA SPLENDENS

Photo: Flickr - Gomagoti

Over the last twenty or thirty years, Betta fish have become increasingly popular pets in not only the United States (where their popularity of late has really boomed) but also all over the world. Our finned friends have begun to catch on big-time, but most people don’t even know where these little guys came from. The colorful, beautiful fish we keep as pets today have a history, and what a history it is. In fact, the Betta fish of 150+ years ago wouldn’t be recognizable as the same species today. Have I got you curious? Ready to learn the mysteries behind that beauty swimming back and forth in his 10-gallon tank on your desk? Alright, here we go!

As many of you may already know, Betta fish originated in Thailand and bordering nations, and were originally bred for fighting, not for show. In fact, roughly 150 years ago, Betta fish fighting was actually taxed and regulated by the king of Siam (Siam is now called Thailand, and is where the “Siamese Fighting Fish” title comes from). Bets would be placed on a simple fight between two little fish in which men might wager their money, homes, and even children on the outcome. Despite being an understandably opposed practice today, prize-fighting Bettas had relatively cushy lives: After a Betta had won a single fight, he was usually retired and allowed to breed thereafter.

It is also worth noting that these Betta fish fights were not (thankfully) to the death, instead the first fish to retreat was determined the loser. As such, the Siamese would breed these fish based on the “bravest”, largest, and strongest/most aggressive fish instead of the colors and flowing fins they are bred for today. In fact, the Betta of this time were generally dull-colored and flowing fins were seen as undesirable because they were easier for an enemy fish to bite it.

It was not until 1896 that Bettas began to appear outside of Asia, when a few breeding pairs were introduced in Germany, and not until 1910 did the species start to show up in America. Though scientist Frank Locke of San Franciso received several Betta Splendens, he thought he had discovered a new species when one of his fish had longer, red fins. In fact, what he was actually seeing was the first of a natural mutation in the Betta Splendens species that gave them more color. Since then, these fish have been bred increasingly for color, fin size/shape, and a favorable demeanor and raised to be sold as household pets, not fighters.

But it took some time to get here, and Bettas even today are continuously bred for new color combinations and such. What’s more incredible, is that the fish species really only has a few base colors in its genetic code, but combining these has produced the wide array of fish we see today.

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