Discus fish have a reputation of being difficult to look after. They can be creatures of habit and don't tolerate change well. However anybody can keep or breed them as long as they are equipped with the right knowledge.
Feeding Discus Fish can be quite a challenge. They have no unique nutritional needs and can be raised on most high-protein fish food. However, their cautious nature and reluctance to adapt to new foods and surroundings can create problems.
They have been known to go for weeks without eating before trying and accepting a new type of food.
After about a month they will begin to accept new foods you need to bear in mind the starvation period could slow or stunt the growth of young discus.
It's a good idea to ask the breeder/owner what type of food they are use too and what exactly have they been feeding them. This will help the discus settle in a lot more quickly in there new home.
You can introduce new food at a later time it's a good idea to slowly mix in the new food with the old food and over a period of time increase dosage of the new food until they grow accustomed to the new diet.
If you are breading and have babies you should start feeding the babies while they are on the parents. This is important in means of helping the parents and getting the babies used to the foods you will give in the future.
My recommendations: Start feeding them with live bbs (baby brine shrimp) on 3rd day of free-swimming. During 10th day, start giving some dry food little by little.
Discus fish do not like new foods and surroundings at the same time, remember discus to not like sudden change slowly is the best way.
Barbs are fun to have zipping around your fish tank. They usually average 2"- 3" in size. Barbs need to be paired up with similar fish in the tropical community. Can you see the trend? Tropical fish are normally the fish for your aquarium. Barbs are Omnivores.
A photograph of the Tinfoil Barb (Barbonymus schwanenfeldii). (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
They eat both plant and animals like prepared and live foods. You can toss Fish Flakes or Pellets to feed your Barb. Romaine Lettuce, zucchini and peas are also a good source of food for your Barb, don't be shy to mix it up a little with the food. Freeze-Dried Blood worms, tubifex worms and other small worms, mosquito larvae and daphnia are the specialty foods for your Barb. You don't want to clean a bunch of leftovers so be sure to provide enough food that your Barb will eat in 3 minutes or so.
Barbs are usually middle swimmers, meaning you find them in the middle of the fish tank moving about. Barbs are most active and playful swimmer and like to tease and nip at the fins of slower moving fish. The Barb is like the prankster at the school yard. Only his domain is the aquarium. Barbs move about with 2 or 3 other Barbs to keep the group tough. When Barbs are alone they tend to seclude themselves from the rest of the aquarium fish. So be sure to buy a few of their buddies so it can be more playful in the fish tank.
Other Common Barbs for your fish tank include Tiger Barbs, Cherry Barbs, Rosy Barbs and Tinfoil Barbs.
By Nathan E Peterson
[http://www.FishPlenty.com/wordpress] - The Ultimate Fish Tank Guide For all Aquarium Lovers! This is the mecca for Fish Tank Maintenance, Tips and Tricks and Health information in regards to your tropical fish.
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Be aware of species with very bright colors! This is a trademark characteristic of Poison Arrow Frogs and many other toxic species. It's also a natural mechanism to warn predators to stay away.
Green and Black Poison Dart Frog, Green and Black Poison Arrow Frog or Mint Poison Frog, Dendrobates auratus, (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
* The ultra bright colors of the poison arrow frogs are a warning to predators.
* Numerous amphibians generate toxic compounds through the glands and carry trace amounts of poison on the external parts of their bodies. Poison arrow frogs produce poison that is strong enough to severally damage human beings.
* Native tribesman in Columbia utilize ancient techniques that collect the poison from the frogs. After collecting the poison they lace their arrow tips with the poison and create a powerful weapon that can poison prey with or use against rival tribes.
* In lesser amounts, the poison from Arrow Frogs can be used on humans for its muscle relaxant properties.
* Females lay eggs on land in damp areas. The males then guard the eggs until they hatch and become tadpoles. The babies then crawl onto the backs of their fathers while the father searches for water. Once the father finds suitable amount of water, he shakes the babies off his back and from that point on they are on their own.
* Dart Frogs are exotic pets that require extra caution while keeping them as pets because of their poison secretion properties. Even 1/1000th is enough to potentially cause serious harm to any human being.
* In captivity they can live up to 10 years.
* Their use their sticky tongues to capture prey such as small spiders and termites. They capture their prey by using their sticky, retractable tongues.
By Ricky Priston
If you found this interesting take a look at more cool Poison Arrow Frog [http://www.topicjax.com/poison-arrow-frog-facts] facts.
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Breeding Bushynose Plecos can be a lot of fun and very rewarding. This is a great beginners catfish and there are also a lot of different strains, colors and fin varieties to choose from.
There are a couple of things you need to do to set yourself up for successfully breeding Bushynose Plecos.
1) Set-up a bare bottom tank for your colony of fish. A 40 gallon tank works well with this. Use only bubble filters, or any other filter that cannot suck up the young fry.
2) You can either purchase adult fish or juveniles to start your colony. If you purchase adults, then a ratio of 1 male to 4-5 females is ideal. If you purchase juveniles, the purchase 6-8 fish and let them grow up into adults. Pick the best adults from the group for your breeding colony. Sexing Bushynose is easy and can be done when the fish are around 3" or larger. Adult males have an intensely bushy nose, while females do not. Females also have a wider body than males when viewed from above.
3) Males will need a cave of some sort to entice a female to join him in. When the female is ready to breed she will join the male in the cave, lay her eggs and then leave. The male will take care of the eggs and young fry from there. He is a good parent.
4) Providing the proper food for both the adults and the fry is very important. Bushynose have large appetites and require a diverse diet. Make sure to stay away from proteins. In large quantity protein can bind up and kill your fish. Foods like zucchini, romaine lettuce, spirulina flakes, and algae wafers are perfect foods for both adult and fry.
5) Water changes are essential. Since you will be feeding your growing fish a lot of food, daily water changes of 25-50% are recommended. Water changes are one of the most important parts of keeping tropical fish so do not skip this part. Monitor your water quality for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.
You can raise Bushynose fry in the same tank as the adults, but you may want to separate them to prevent over stocking of the tank. Bushynose fry grow quickly and you should have fish that you can sell or trade within 3 months.
At Tropical Fish Resource we have over 20 years of experience keeping and studying tropical fish. We travel all over the world researching and documenting different species in the wild. Our goal is to educate people about the sustainability of the tropical fish hobby and how keeping tropical fish can impact the environment. [http://www.tropicalfishresource.com/index.html]
Okay so picking the right plants for your betta tank doesn't have to be done with the same care you would give say picking a brain surgeon - or like your life depended on it. But this is still a decision worthy of a bit of brain sweat. Okay maybe just a little. Because the answer may lie in a plant you may never have heard of before. Java Ferns
Java Fern, one of only a few ferns capable of growing underwater. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
That's right. The java fern could just be the best aquarium plant you have never heard of. It's an even better betta fish plant, if I'm allowed to so designate one. Plus it's a low maintenance bit of vegetation that should do just fine in your tank and bring with it several benefits.
Having been sold on the idea, as with all things betta, there are some questions you might wish to ask about this planted tank adventure that you might not think of so let me suggest a few. These are extracted from the list of less than obvious questions about java ferns you may not have thought of but should have.
Question #1: So why is this a good plant for bettas?
It's simple. Plants help to keep nitrate levels down. And low nitrate levels equate to better water quality which equates to healthier fish. Aside from that these ferns provide shelter or just a place for a betta to take a break. You may see your fish just resting on one of the leaves. Plus they add to the overall beauty of the tank you've got going there.
Question #2: Sounds good, then how do I get started with these?
Success with java ferns begins with cured driftwood. Given these plants are rhizome based, meaning the leaves and roots develop from one, you'll want to simply tie your plant to the driftwood with fishing line until its roots take hold. After a few weeks you can snip off the line as the plant should be firmly attached by then. The roots will spread across the face of the wood from there.
The big idea here is to avoid burying the rhizome in the gravel or substrate. That will doom your plant to a fairly quick death.
Question #3: Will I need to provide any kind of fertilization?
Good question with a short answer. It depends. That and everyone has their favorite one be it something like Leaf Zone or some other commercial aquarium plant food. Plus there are no hard and fast rules for feeding.
Here's the deal with the fertilizer. The amount your plants will need to thrive depends on how much light they get. To put it simply the more light the plants get the hungrier they'll be. So more light equates to higher fertilizer or food requirements. The trick is too much of this stuff and you'll only be encouraging unwanted algae growth. Too little and your plants may be stymied. Much like Goldilocks, the amount to use needs to be just right. Which you can only determine from firsthand experience.
Still the nice thing about java ferns is they'll make do with the light you provide. Taking anything from bright to low light and making the best of it.
Anyway those are three lesser, yet good to know questions about java fern that you might not have thought of asking off the top of your head. So now you know.
By Lucas Smatana
And should you want help with male or female betta fish a visit to http://www.better-bettas.com is just a click away. Many find it to be worthwhile to read all the helpful advice and tips about Siamese fighting fish that awaits novice and intermediate betta keepers alike.
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The term “reverse osmosis systems” may sound too scientific to you, but these are as common to everyday life as the water you drink. To put it simply, reverse osmosis (RO) systems used in households refer to purifying devices, which forcibly separate solutes from water with the use of a partially permeable membrane (filter) and water pressure. To decide whether you need one, you must first understand how it works as well as its pros and cons.
Reverse osmosis device for auqarium water treatment (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Understanding reverse osmosis - In osmosis, a selectively permeable membrane divides a solution according to its solute concentration. The natural motion of a liquid solution (osmotic pressure) causes its molecules to pass through the membrane in the direction of low to high concentration.
By contrast, reverse osmosis systems cause the solution to flow from high to low concentration, preventing substances with larger molecules from coming through the membrane. Reverse osmosis systems also work differently in that they utilize external force.
Domestic uses of reverse osmosis (RO) systems - Various RO systems are not only used in healthcare (e.g., dialysis), manufacturing, and urban planning, but reverse osmosis is also used at home for drinking water filtration and aquarium maintenance. In developed countries, tap water goes through water purification systems that use reverse osmosis among other means of treating water. In many parts of the world, RO water treatment devices for domestic use are quickly rising in popularity, mostly through door-to-door sales and appliance store promotions.
Aside from potable water supply, RO systems are popular among aquarists, especially those who maintain a reef aquarium. If you plan to set up (or trade in) your freshwater fish-only tank for a reef aquarium in your home, then you should invest in good reverse osmosis systems. A reef aquarium has higher water chemistry requirements than a fish-only aquarium, especially in terms of salinity, so you need to use an RO system to simulate seawater. In addition, water supply to your home is chemically treated, and as such, it means trouble for the living things inside your tank. Substances can contaminate your reef tank’s delicate condition and encourage the growth of algae. Although the presence of algae in your tank is beneficial up to a certain point, having too many is bad in that algae compete with organisms in your tank for nutrients. They are also unsightly.
Advantages and disadvantages - Reverse osmosis systems are chemical-free, so whether you’re buying a device for drinking water filtration or aquarium maintenance, this is their biggest advantage. Reverse osmosis doesn’t affect the smell and taste of water, doesn't require high maintenance, and doesn't use up too much power.
However, RO systems have low back pressure, so the volume of water that they need is also great. Continued use will also quickly fill up your septic tank. RO systems are not “purifiers,” as they are only capable of filtering solutes but not killing bacteria. In addition, they may also filter out useful substances, such as calcium and magnesium.
Reverse Osmosis systems are relatively environment-friendly and efficient. However, RO systems for home use may not be as cost-effective and efficient as they usually are at industry level, so examine your needs first before making a decision.
Andy Seitz is an aquarium enthusiast and pet store owner who has been a featured member and guest lecturer at many aquarium clubs. To learn more about reverse osmosis systems and ultraviolet aquarium sterilizers, please go to marinedepot.com.
Maybe it is the sleek, torpedo shape knifing through the waters of the aquarium, unlike most other types of fish which are built much more like...well, fish! Or possibly the brilliant, usually blue and black vertical striped colourations, are what attracted me in the first place, and hold me fascinated as they swim. There are some other morphs and colorations coming into the trade as time goes by, but the blue and black bars of an alpha male will always be my favorite pattern for this fish.
Most likely it is the way they carry themselves with pure attitude, from fry on up that makes them so memorable. Rarely do they allow themselves to be bullied, and generally end up as the fish to be concerned about when new additions are added. They are already kings and queens and will ensure the rest are aware of their status. An alpha male, patrolling the aquarium and ensuring all others flee when near is a spectacle I can watch for hours.
Like many other Mbuna from Lake Malawi, the elongatus has developed as a mouth brooder. Although this form of parental behaviour is not unique to this species, it is fascinating to watch. I have had established aquariums where many generations live and thrive in the same tank. Father, Son, Grandson, great grandson and even more generations all grow and thrive together over time and interbreed their generations if allowed.
Unlike livebearers who simply drop their babies someplace and leave, rarely recognizing them later as anything other than food, the entire cichlid family provides some form of parenting behaviour. South American Cichlids share the duties with both parents often protecting the eggs where they have been laid. They then continue protecting the brood as they hatch and then begin to swim. For most species this a job for both male and female of the pair, and for this reason many species form long-term bonds.
The Mbuna, or African CIchlids generally take this protection a step further, holding the young within the mouth of the female until the fry are free-swimming and able to fend for themselves. Unlike many others that pair-bond, it seems the female takes the responsibilities for the fry on herself and pairing will be much more fluid. This is important to understand since when after the courtship and the eggs have been laid, the female may not eat for up to three weeks to prevent accidental ingestion of the precious cargo she is carrying in her mouth. The male does not share these duties, and can even be working with another female during this period.
Elongatus, like most African Cichlids, are more difficult to sex and to compound the problem there are extreme discrepancies in the ratio of the sexes for many Mbuna species. There are commonly many more females than males born and raised to maturity. It is often best to purchase these fish, as unsexed juveniles in schools of 6 or so, that way you should get at least one viable pair when they mature. This also helps with controlling the aggressive tendencies of the fish and keeps them busier among themselves establishing territory and dominance in the group rather than beating up the other species kept in the aquarium.
Once grown, the males are generally larger than the females. The egg patches on the anal fins are often more intensely coloured for the females, offering better visual targets for the males in the breeding rituals. As a species they are very aggressive, even for African Mbuna, But, with enough distractions, simply add plenty of activity to the aquarium. Don't obtain these fish if you are looking for a peaceful and placid aquarium community.
The living area should be as large as possible, with a 30 gallon aquarium being my personal minimum for them. Decorations should be basically rocks - usually the flatter and stackable the better. I have had the most success with lots of slate that is piled up in such a manner that there are all sorts of small spaces and channels for the babies, once they have been released from the mother's mouth. They need to rapidly find places and swimming paths where bigger fish mouths simply cannot go. The rocks should be piles in the back of the aquarium with free swimming areas open in the front. I also tend to offer a few caves or other hiding places in the front that often become the sole property of the tank alpha male.
Some people have had success with live plants with Africans, or so they report, but I have always found that if they don't eat them, then they will dig them up, so I have always reverted to rock decorations only.
I keep the tank relatively high in pH, although nowhere close to the recommendation of Hans Baensch - p 756 - Baensch Aquarium Atlas which is 8.5. My fish do fine in Montreal's standard water - about 7.6 - 7.8. The water is supplemented with an African Cichlid conditioner to bring up the hardness and stabilize alkalinity, but other than that, at present no other work is done on the water characteristics.
I do very little as far as exotic foods. Most African Cichlids do very well on the various prepared foods available at the local pet store. Cichlid pellets, either floating or sinking are usually quite enough, although I do feed them some staple flakes as well. At present the food I have is a sinking small Cichlid micro pellet for the tank of essentially juvenile Africans. The pellets seem to sink quite fast to a single place, so the addition of flakes lets everyone feed at other levels in the aquarium.
By Stephen Pond
Having kept and bred many different types of tropical fish for the past forty years, I am dedicated to providing information required for the novice aquarist to to the advanced tropical fish keeper to become successful in this fascinating hobby. I continue to provide as much information on all aspects of the hobby through my website with its associated blogs and video areas dedicated to quite a number of aquarium topics at the Tropical Fish Aquarist website. It has been designed to provide an excellent resource for every level of fish enthusiast. For more detailed information specifically tailored for the novice aquarist on all aspects of the beginning aquarium check the website at http://www.noviceaquarist.com Besides my own personal contributions, a variety of other sources are polled and added regularly to the content warehouse available there. (Part of non-working links deleted)
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