FISH FLUKES: How to Recognise and Treat This FISH DISEASE

Dactylogyrus and Gyrodactylus are monogenean flukes that inhabit the skin, fins and occasionally the gills of freshwater and marine fish. Unlike Lernaea and leeches (other skin-infesting, worm-like parasites of fish), Gyrodactylus and Dactylogyrus are microscopic. Marine monogenetic trematodes on the other hand are large enough to be seen with the naked eye. They attach to fish via a rostral hooked attachment organ. This attachment to the skin causes small puncture wounds in the skin every time the hooks are embedded. The browsing action of the mouth is what causes the damage. 

Common Carp with gill flap birth defect,
a good visual example of gills.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Gyrodactylus and Dactylogyrus can be differentiated on the basis of their reproductive methods. Certain fish species like the discus are particularly sensitive to gill fluke infections, where >3 flukes on a 5-10 gill filament biopsy is considered a heavy infestation.

The main difference between the two different flukes is their mode of reproduction and hence the way we manage and treat for the disease. Gyrodactylus are livebearing flukes (i.e. produce live young) and so a single treatment would suffice. Dactylogyrus on the other hand are egg layers and treatments never kill their eggs. Multiple treatments would be necessary to treat dactylogyrosis. Thus it is important to know which you are dealing with.

Clinical Signs

These parasites cause extensive skin and fin damage due to the attachment with their hooks and the feeding activity. Affected fish present with increased mucus production, are usually restless and irritated and may 'flash' or jump out of the water. 

Chronic infections causes inappetance which lead to weight loss. The skin often displays epithelial damage which can be complicated by secondary bacterial (usually Aeromonas hydrophila) and fungal infections. The fins are frequently frayed. Although Gyrodactylus is sometimes seen on the gills, it is the Dactylogyrus parasite that is of particular importance here. Known as the 'gill fluke' they cause localised to extensive gill damage and heavy infestations may lead to respiratory incapacity.

Diagnosis

Diagnosis can be made by microscopic observation of these monogenean flukes from skin scrapings or gill biopsies. Even fish that has been dead for several hours can still be examined for the remnants of fluke haptors (in the case of Gyrodactylus). The importance of differentiating the two major types of flukes in freshwater fish is to determine whether multiple treatments are needed (the egg-laying Dactylogyrus will require multiple treatments as the egg stage is refractory to treatment).

Sometimes dactylogyrosis is difficult to detect on wet preparation since distal gill filament clips may miss the organisms - gill flukes have a tendency to inhabit the proximal part of the gills. Sacrificing fish for histology examination will help give you a more conclusive answer.

Treatment

Some commonly used medications effective against monogenetic trematodes include formalin, organophosphates (trichlorfon, fenthion), anthelmintics (praziquantel, fenbendazole), peroxide and osmotic challenge.

By Dr Richmond Loh This article has been sourced from Loh & Landos (2011) Fish Vetting Essentials, Richmond Loh Publishing, Perth. Get it now from - http://thefishvet.com.au/shop/shopping.html --  Now on: Twitter - Blog - Facebook - LinkedIn -- BSc BVMS MPhil (Vet Path) MANZCVS (Aquatics & Pathobiology) DipPM Veterinarian / Adjunct Lecturer Murdoch University / Secretary Aquatic Animal Health Chapter ANZCVS The Fish Vet, Perth, Western Australia. Mobile Veterinary Service for fish and other aquatic creatures. http://www.thefishvet.com.au Ph: +61 (0)421 822 383 Article Source: EzineArticles

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APISTOGRAMMA - Fish Fact

Highly prized by many hobbyists, Apistogramma is a genus of as many as 250 identified species of fish from the family Cichlidae distributed in the tropical areas of South America's small streams, oxbow lakes, Amazon basin and Venezuela. Most species are strongly sexually dimorphic, with males generally larger (up to 9 cm) in its small adult size and dramatically more coloured to the females. Male Apistogramma has elaborate or extended fins while the female Apistogramma generally has gray to brown colour.

Umbrella cichlid, Apistogramma hongsloi (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

All Apistogramma species are micropredators, with their main diet consisting of insect larvae, fish fry and other invertebrates. Live foods such as Brine Shrimp , Cyclops , Daphnia , Bloodworms , mosquito larvae, Tubifex can be fed. They may also accept flakes.

Apistogramma are quite peaceful, popular aquarium residents, making them ideal for inclusion in any community or planted aquariums with plenty of cover such as plants and driftwood. Apistogramma thrives in soft acidic water in its original habitat and are very sensitive to changes in the water chemistry. Recommended values for the water are a pH value range between 5.5-6.8, a water hardness from 0-8 dH, and a temperature from 75-84°F (24-29°C). Peat filtration will help in improving the water chemistry. Dim lighting or partial cover of floating plants should be considered as these species thrive in shaded areas. In the home aquarium, there should be little water movement created by filter. The substrate bottom preferably should be a darker tone.

During breeding and brood care, the female Apistogramma will have a shade of yellow colour. As in most Cichlidae, brood care is highly developed where all Apistogramma species spawn under rocks, in caves, or in holes in branches or sunken logs. A number of breeding strategies exist. Some species breed in polygynous harems, while other species form monogamous pairs. 

In most instances, the female is usually more highly involved with brood care, while the male defends the surrounding territory against predators. Development of the sex of the fry is largely affected by the water conditions, with warmer and softer water favoring more males to females. The eggs usually hatch in 2-5 days and the young will be free-swimming about 4-6 days later. The delicate fry can be raised on small Daphnia , Artemia nauplii, and roftiers.

By Edmund LF Apistogramma , as in all other Dwarf Cichlids, are not recommended for beginners though. Click here to view video of Apistogramma in action. Author: Edmund LF Blog: http://www.FreshnMarine.com.sg/blog Email: info@freshnmarine.com.sg Article Source: EzineArticles

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Aquarium Care Guide- NEW TANKS

A fish tank at the Oklahoma Aquarium (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When starting a new aquarium it is important to understand the nitrogen cycle. Many new aquarium owners jump into the hobby of fish keeping too quickly. Before purchasing fish, the aquarium must be cycled. This could take anywhere from twenty four hours to four weeks. In an established aquarium there are certain bacteria that help the breakdown of ammonia to nitrates, but they are not present in a new tank because they are generated from existing fish. If there are no existing fish, then there are no good bacteria. 

The basic principle of the nitrogen cycle is this. Fish eat food and generate waste. That waste along with excess food and plant debris become ammonia in the aquarium. Ammonia is toxic to fish and needs to be broken down. That's why the nitrifying bacteria is important. This bacteria, turns the ammonia into nitrites which are more tolerable to fish than ammonia. Next, different nitrifying bacteria will turn the nitrites into nitrates, which are even less toxic to the fish and other aquarium life. The nitrates are collected and minimized by filters; however they will eventually accumulate in the tank. Regular water changes are required to remove the nitrates from the water.  

It is important to set up and run an aquarium before any fish are introduced into the environment. Wash the tank and any substrate and decorations thoroughly with water. Don't use any soap. Fill the tank with de-chlorinated water and attach filters and lighting. Allow the tank to cycle until the water is no longer cloudy and sufficient P.H and water temperatures have been established.  

Now it is time to purchase the fish! Buy hardy fish such as danios, barb, gouramis, and live bearers. They should be able to withstand the high nitrite levels and ammonia in the new aquarium. Only introduce about four fish at a time. Float the fish in the bag in the aquarium for about fifteen minutes before adding them to the tank. This will help the fish become acclimated to the water temperature in their new home. When adding the fish, be careful not to allow the water from the bag into the aquarium. It may be contaminated, or will at the very least, throw off the temperature and P.H. Allow the fish about two hours to become acclimated before feeding. 

Only feed an amount that can be consumed in the first two to five minutes. Overfeeding is a common problem in an aquarium. It is important not to overfeed, because excess food will become debris adding to the ammonia levels. This is especially important in new aquariums that lack nitrifying bacteria. Test the water P.H. every day within the first month. Watch the tank for cloudiness; if the aquarium becomes cloudy, it may be necessary to add a clarifier. Monitor the fish for signs of stress or illness. A healthy fish will be swimming regularly. Lethargic fish will usually hover near the surface of the aquarium. After about a week change approximately ten percent of the water and begin regular maintenance.

Feeding Tips for DISCUS FISH

Discus fish have a reputation of being difficult to look after. They can be creatures of habit and don't tolerate change well. However anybody can keep or breed them as long as they are equipped with the right knowledge.

Live brine shrimps (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Feeding Discus Fish can be quite a challenge. They have no unique nutritional needs and can be raised on most high-protein fish food. However, their cautious nature and reluctance to adapt to new foods and surroundings can create problems.

They have been known to go for weeks without eating before trying and accepting a new type of food.

After about a month they will begin to accept new foods you need to bear in mind the starvation period could slow or stunt the growth of young discus.

It's a good idea to ask the breeder/owner what type of food they are use too and what exactly have they been feeding them. This will help the discus settle in a lot more quickly in there new home.

You can introduce new food at a later time it's a good idea to slowly mix in the new food with the old food and over a period of time increase dosage of the new food until they grow accustomed to the new diet.

If you are breading and have babies you should start feeding the babies while they are on the parents. This is important in means of helping the parents and getting the babies used to the foods you will give in the future.

My recommendations: Start feeding them with live bbs (baby brine shrimp) on 3rd day of free-swimming. During 10th day, start giving some dry food little by little.

Discus fish do not like new foods and surroundings at the same time, remember discus to not like sudden change slowly is the best way.

Keeping &Breeding Discus Fish Guide Article Directory: EzineArticles

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BARBS Are Fun Exotic Fish For Your Tropical Fish Tank

Barbs for Aquariums

Barbs are fun to have zipping around your fish tank.  They usually average 2"- 3" in size.  Barbs need to be paired up with similar fish in the tropical community.  Can you see the trend?  Tropical fish are normally the fish for your aquarium.  Barbs are Omnivores.  

A photograph of the Tinfoil Barb (Barbonymus schwanenfeldii). (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

They eat both plant and animals like prepared and live foods.  You can toss Fish Flakes or Pellets to feed your Barb.  Romaine Lettuce, zucchini and peas are also a good source of food for your Barb, don't be shy to mix it up a little with the food.  Freeze-Dried Blood worms, tubifex worms and other small worms, mosquito larvae and daphnia are the specialty foods for your Barb.  You don't want to clean a bunch of leftovers so be sure to provide enough food that your Barb will eat in 3 minutes or so.

Barbs are usually middle swimmers, meaning you find them in the middle of the fish tank moving about.  Barbs are most active and playful swimmer and like to tease and nip at the fins of slower moving fish.  The Barb is like the prankster at the school yard.  Only his domain is the aquarium.  Barbs move about with 2 or 3 other Barbs to keep the group tough.  When Barbs are alone they tend to seclude themselves from the rest of the aquarium fish.  So be sure to buy a few of their buddies so it can be more playful in the fish tank.

Other Common Barbs for your fish tank include Tiger Barbs, Cherry Barbs, Rosy Barbs and Tinfoil Barbs.

By Nathan E Peterson [http://www.FishPlenty.com/wordpress] - The Ultimate Fish Tank Guide For all Aquarium Lovers! This is the mecca for Fish Tank Maintenance, Tips and Tricks and Health information in regards to your tropical fish. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Poison ARROW FROG Facts

Be aware of species with very bright colors! This is a trademark characteristic of Poison Arrow Frogs and many other toxic species. It's also a natural mechanism to warn predators to stay away.

Green and Black Poison Dart Frog, Green and Black Poison Arrow Frog or Mint Poison Frog,
Dendrobates auratus,  (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

* The ultra bright colors of the poison arrow frogs are a warning to predators.
* Numerous amphibians generate toxic compounds through the glands and carry trace amounts of poison on the external parts of their bodies. Poison arrow frogs produce poison that is strong enough to severally damage human beings.
* Native tribesman in Columbia utilize ancient techniques that collect the poison from the frogs. After collecting the poison they lace their arrow tips with the poison and create a powerful weapon that can poison prey with or use against rival tribes.
* In lesser amounts, the poison from Arrow Frogs can be used on humans for its muscle relaxant properties.
* Females lay eggs on land in damp areas. The males then guard the eggs until they hatch and become tadpoles. The babies then crawl onto the backs of their fathers while the father searches for water. Once the father finds suitable amount of water, he shakes the babies off his back and from that point on they are on their own.
* Dart Frogs are exotic pets that require extra caution while keeping them as pets because of their poison secretion properties. Even 1/1000th is enough to potentially cause serious harm to any human being.
* In captivity they can live up to 10 years.
* Their use their sticky tongues to capture prey such as small spiders and termites. They capture their prey by using their sticky, retractable tongues.

By Ricky Priston If you found this interesting take a look at more cool Poison Arrow Frog [http://www.topicjax.com/poison-arrow-frog-facts] facts. Article Source: EzineArticles

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BUSHYNOSE PLECOS Are Easy To Keep And Breed

Breeding Bushynose Plecos can be a lot of fun and very rewarding. This is a great beginners catfish and there are also a lot of different strains, colors and fin varieties to choose from.

There are a couple of things you need to do to set yourself up for successfully breeding Bushynose Plecos.

Photo by Alex Sorokine

1) Set-up a bare bottom tank for your colony of fish. A 40 gallon tank works well with this. Use only bubble filters, or any other filter that cannot suck up the young fry.

2) You can either purchase adult fish or juveniles to start your colony. If you purchase adults, then a ratio of 1 male to 4-5 females is ideal. If you purchase juveniles, the purchase 6-8 fish and let them grow up into adults. Pick the best adults from the group for your breeding colony. Sexing Bushynose is easy and can be done when the fish are around 3" or larger. Adult males have an intensely bushy nose, while females do not. Females also have a wider body than males when viewed from above.

3) Males will need a cave of some sort to entice a female to join him in. When the female is ready to breed she will join the male in the cave, lay her eggs and then leave. The male will take care of the eggs and young fry from there. He is a good parent.

4) Providing the proper food for both the adults and the fry is very important. Bushynose have large appetites and require a diverse diet. Make sure to stay away from proteins. In large quantity protein can bind up and kill your fish. Foods like zucchini, romaine lettuce, spirulina flakes, and algae wafers are perfect foods for both adult and fry.

5) Water changes are essential. Since you will be feeding your growing fish a lot of food, daily water changes of 25-50% are recommended. Water changes are one of the most important parts of keeping tropical fish so do not skip this part. Monitor your water quality for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.

You can raise Bushynose fry in the same tank as the adults, but you may want to separate them to prevent over stocking of the tank. Bushynose fry grow quickly and you should have fish that you can sell or trade within 3 months.

By Kirt Herronen http://www.tropicalfishresource.com/bushynoseplecos.html At Tropical Fish Resource we have over 20 years of experience keeping and studying tropical fish. We travel all over the world researching and documenting different species in the wild. Our goal is to educate people about the sustainability of the tropical fish hobby and how keeping tropical fish can impact the environment. [http://www.tropicalfishresource.com/index.html] Article Source: EzineArticles

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