BALL PYTHON

Description: 

Ball pythons grow to about 4 feet in length and some may grow to about 5 feet in length. They become nicely rounded if properly fed. They have anal spurs. These are single claws that appear on either side of the vent. Males have longer spurs than females and males also have smaller heads than females. They have blotches on a brown or bluish-brown background color. Colors may vary but there will be shades of yellow found in all ball pythons. 

Female ball python (Python regius) brooding a clutch of eggs. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Basic Care: 

Glass tanks can be used for housing with a fixed glass top. Ball pythons are more cunning than other snakes when it comes to escaping from the cage. A ten gallon tank can be used for a hatchling. A young adult will need a 20 gallon tank, and a full grown adult will need a 30 gallon tank. 

These snakes will adjust to the environment it is housed in, but will normally require a more humid area when it is shedding. If one notices that the snake has not eaten for a very long time though it is necessary, and it begins to lose weight, it must be shown to a vetenary. 

Diet: 

In the wild ball pythons eat amphibians, other snakes, small mammals and birds. They do not eat mice in the wild. In captivity one has to let them grow into the activity of being fed with mice. These snakes do not need to eat regularly and some may even live for up to a year without any food. 

Baby ball pythons can be fed with mice that have already been killed. If the hatchling is smaller than usual, a smaller mouse can be used as the feed. Adults may be fed with larger mice. These snakes do not need a regular feeding time table. Fresh water must be provided daily, as the ball python like others drinks and also soaks itself in the water. 

Heat and light: 

For the snake to be healthy proper temperature range must be maintained. A temperature of 80 to 85 ºF with a 90 degree spot for basking must be maintained in the day time. The temperature may be around 70 to 75 ºF in the cooler area. Heating pads may be used under the glass enclosure. 

Hot rocks will not be suitable because ball pythons are susceptible to thermal burns. Special lights are not needed, and a low wattage bulb can be used to view the snake in the day time. Ball pythons are especially prone to getting burned and so the light must not be kept directly above them. 

Environment: 

Ball pythons in the wild are found in generally temperate to arid areas. Initially paper towels can be used as substrate in the housing. This will also help determine if there are any mites present and also the feces can be monitored. Shredded cypress or fur bark can be used after the ball python is used to living in the enclosure. Pine and aspen shavings are not recommended, as they may get lodged in the mouth causing respiratory problems. Soiled shavings must be removed to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungus. 

An empty cardboard box or a log must be placed inside the cage for the ball python to use it as a hiding place. One must make sure the box is large enough for the entire snake to fit inside. The hiding place should not be too big as the snake likes to have a small place to hide. Fake branches and greenery may be placed inside the cage for the snake to climb and hang on. 

Behavior: 

They are active around dawn and dusk. They are comfortable on the ground and in the trees. They curl up tightly and put their heads in the centre when they become nervous. They are curious and gentle. Some ball pythons will not shed for a few months when they are initially in captivity. This means they are highly stressed with the surroundings.

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What Is LIVE ROCK and How Does It Benefit My Aquarium?

The three pieces of live rock that ended up in my reef tank,
prior to my prepping the tank for them.
 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

If you are looking for a natural way to filter the water in your marine aquarium, while adding to the overall natural beauty of your setup, consider installing live rock into your aquarium's ecosystem.

What is Live Rock?

Unlike the name suggests, live rock isn't actually alive, but the creatures that make the porous rock their homes are very definitely alive. When large ocean storms strike tropical reefs in places such as the Caribbean or the South Pacific, small parts of the reef are broken off by the action of the waves. These pieces of semi-fossil reef, along with all the organisms living inside and on this reef material, are collected for the salt water marine aquarium trade. Among the organisms which may be present with the rock are algae, salt water worms, bacteria, sponges and corals.

What Are the Benefits of Using Live Rock in Your Aquarium?

The key reason for installing live rock in your saltwater aquarium is the rock's ability to help filter your water naturally and process wastes produced by all the other organisms in the aquarium. Because it is very porous, there is space for both anaerobic (bacteria that does not need oxygen to survive) and aerobic (bacteria that needs oxygen for survival) bacteria.

Both bacteria types process the raw ammonia of the fish waste, along with leftover fish food, and convert these wastes into first, nitrite, and then, nitrate. After nitrate is formed, the anaerobic bacteria take over exclusively and convert the nitrate into nitrogen, a harmless gas that is released from the water into the air. When enough rock is added to a saltwater aquarium, the end result is a much cleaner environment for your marine fish.

Besides adding to the natural ecosystem of your aquarium, there are other benefits to introducing fiji or other types of rock to your aquarium. First, the live rock adds to the beauty of your aquarium. While watching the different organisms around the rock, you can almost feel that you're snorkeling in the warm waters of the Caribbean. Also, if you want to add corals to a reef aquarium, it gives you an adequate base for cementing the corals. Finally, your fish and other creatures living in your aquarium can use the organisms growing in and on the rock as food, and the rock itself can become shelter for them.

What Should You Know About Live Rock Before Buying?

The rule of thumb is to buy enough to match both your aquarium system's size and situation. If your saltwater aquarium contains only fish, one pound of live rock or more per gallon of water is a good idea. If you own a marine reef aquarium, you will need at least two pounds per gallon of water.

Another factor to consider when purchasing live rock is whether or not it has been treated in order to remove marine animals in the rock, which can die en route and making your water foul with decomposition. If the rock's been strongly treated, you may not have all the marine life you need to act as the biological filter you want. If possible, use live rock that hasn't been overly treated and is as fresh as possible.

A critical factor for filtration is the steady movement of water over and through the rock. If you have an abundance of marine animals living in your live rock, their movement as they go about their lives provides enough water movement for the biological filter to work. A large population of small organisms can give your rock more water movement capabilities that a few larger organisms, such as the movement of a large colony of small marine worms versus a few larger marine worms. Without steady water movement, the pores of the rock become choked with algae, which aren't enough by themselves to filter your water, and their death can actually increase the load of organic material your aquarium already has with the presence of other marine organisms.

IF paying $5 or more per pound, take a hard look at its surface. It really should appear to be alive with the movement of multitudes of organisms. If you see lots of plants and animals moving on the outside of the live rock, chances are good that the organisms you need inside the rock are also in place. We suggest or lower cost live rock which will become more live over time.

By Richard Gilliland Live Rock for sale at Salty Supply Article Source: EzineArticles

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GOLDEN LYRETAIL KILLIFISH Are Not Very Hard to Keep

Golden Lyretail killifish is found in Africa are especially in Angola, Cameroon, Gabon and Congo. In nature, they love to live in marshes and in water holes. So just like any other killifish, they love to live in ditches and channels.

A golden lyretail killifish (Aphyosemion australe) in an aquarium. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The scientific name for Golden Lyretail killifish is Aphyosemoin australe. They are not very hard to keep. They are small in size - can grow up to 2 1/2" inches. They are comfortable in the water having a ph level of around 6.0 and the temperature in the range of 77-83° F.

Their body is cylindrical and it is in elongated form which differentiates between a male and a female. They are surface feeders so their mouth usually faces upwards. The males will have multiple colors, predominantly golden, brown and orange. They will have all their fins - dorsal, coudal, and anal in a pointed shape. The females will have rounded fins and their colors will be dull.

They are peace-loving fish and they can live with any other species of fish in a community aquarium. So if you want to make your aquarium populated with colorful and multi-shaped varieties of fish, Golden Lyretail killifish should be your choice.

You can feed them with a variety of food. Usually they love to eat live food like brine shrimp or blood-worms but you can also feed them with dry and flaked food for their nutritional needs. Sometimes, you can feed them with boiled vegetables and they will be happy to eat them.

Even though they are not of demanding nature, you should provide them clean and well-treated water. There should be adequate filtration in the aquarium. As they are surface feeders, particles of food will escape and accumulate at the bottom of the aquarium. These particles will contaminate the quality of water. You should regularly clean the aquarium so that the level of toxic elements is kept under control.

Golden Lyretail killifish do not like to live in bright lights. So you should not provide too much lighting in your aquarium. You should also ensure that there is no direct sunlight hitting the aquarium water.

The breeding of Golden Lyretail killifish is not a difficult process. If you keep subdued lighting and a reasonable range of temperature, they will spawn. It is advisable to keep a group of a few females and one male in order to get good results. You should not keep more than one male in the aquarium because they may fight with each other.

The eggs will take about a couple of weeks to hatch. The new ones should be immediately shifted to a new tank. You should provide them food right from the first day. You should take special care in keeping the water clean and well treated because they will be very delicate for the first few weeks to sustain in tough conditions.

Golden Lyretail killifish are one of the most beautiful tropical fish and if you have a moderate-size tank, they will be happy to live with other species of fish.

By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. Article Source: EzineArticles

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COLDWATER AQUARIUM Set-up and Care

As the hobby of having an aquarium becomes more and more popular, it should be noted that the easiest aquarium to care for and set up is a coldwater tank. As the name suggests, coldwater tanks require no heating set up. This cuts costs when setting up your first tank. It also makes the aquarium much easier to maintain in the long run. Keep in mind that only certain coldwater fish can survive in a tank without heat. Most common are goldfish and guppies, but there are a multitude available and you will be able to have an array of fish living in your coldwater tank.

Mid 19th Century glass freshwater aquarium,
containing Vallisneria spiralis, goldfish, roach, and minnow.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The supplies you will need to set up your aquarium may seem lengthy, but it is actually a much shorter and cheaper list than that of a heated freshwater tank or a saltwater tank. Obviously the first thing you need is a tank. It's all about personal choice here as they come in many sizes and shapes. When you purchase the tank, a kit often comes with it and includes some of the other things you may need. Just to make sure, check that you have a filter and  an air pump. These are the most important pieces to the whole set up. If you are buying your tank as a kit, make sure it is specified to be a coldwater set-up. You will notice that no heater will be included.

After the purchase of your tank, you can now consider how you wish to decorate it. Many types of gravel and sand are available in a lot of colors. You can add accent plants as well to make it appear more natural. Many people add little figures or signs to personalize their aquariums. It's all up to you in regards to décor. Be sure to buy a net, an algae scraper and conditioner for the water.

If you choose to have a tank with lighting, that is ok, just be aware of the problems it may cause. By adding light to the tank, you are also adding heat. Algae thrives on heat. Though a light won't harm your tank, it may add to algae growth. This is not uncommon and is easily cleaned. Your fish will enjoy having the light, so it is probably best to buy a hood that includes a light. Try to keep the tank out of direct sunlight when you choose it's position within your home. This will also add to algae growth.

Once you have your tank set up and the water is stabilized, you may add your fish. Be sure to only buy coldwater fish to add to this tank. If you are unsure of what types of fish are coldwater, ask for help at a pet store. They will offer you some extra tips on the types of fish you are purchasing as well. Once your fish are added, you will have a wonderful underwater scene to enjoy for years to come. It is important to clean and care for your tank on a routine basis. A complete cleaning of the tank should be done every 2 months, including a water change, scraping algae, rinsing the gravel of waste and changing filters.

You will find that as time passes, you will form a routing of caring for your coldwater aquarium. It is worth the effort to maintain the tank, as you will be rewarded with a wonderful addition to your home.

LIVEBEARERS and Egg-layers - Learning the Different Fresh Water Aquarium Fish

Fresh water aquarium fish are classified into two groups: livebearers and egg-layers. Livebearers give birth to their young instead of laying eggs. Female Egg-layers discharges eggs when impregnated by the male fish.

All Fresh water aquarium fish are very colorful and attractive so how can you tell if one is a livebearer or an egg layer?

Swordtails (Livebearers)

The male has long tail like sword. Therefore, the fish is called the swordtail fish. Swordtail may grow upward to 5 inches. Generally, they are peaceful but the male is known for chasing after other male. To protect the young ones the female must be tooking out because the females are well known for eating up their young.

 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Guppies (Livebearers)

The male guppies are fancy and colorful, whereas the females are dull and plain. This fish breeds well however overcrowding can become a problem in the aquarium.

Mollies (Livebearers)

Prefers a little salt in their water. They comes in many distinct colors such as orange, green and black. One of the Molly's biggest problem is stopping them from breeding. The females are generally larger and broader. When pregnant, the females have a dark gravid spot near her anal fin. Mollies will eat up their young, so it's crucial to either have a big plant or a separate breeding tank.

Pearl Gourami (Egg-Layers)

Pearl Gourami are typically quite easy to feed. They like eating live foods such as black worms, brine shrimp, and glass worms. Supply plenty of floating plants and bring the water temperature to close to 80 degrees. The males build a bubble nest, after which breeding will happen. When spawning the male wraps his body around the female who then releases hundreds of eggs. After the eggs have been laid remove the female. Four days later the small fry will be free swimming and the male should be removed.

Freshwater angelfish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Angelfish (Egg-Layers)

Besides their graceful beauty, Angelfish are one of the most popular selections of tropical fish due to their lustiness and simplicity of keeping. Angels cannot merely be placed collectively together as a pair in a tank and be expected to breed. Angelfish prefer to choose their own mates and pair up.

Angelfish mating or spawning starts with the pair selecting a flat surface in the tank to lay the eggs.

By Latree Brown Latree has always had a passion for fresh water aquarium fish ever since childhood. She runs an informational website alone with many blogs that answers all your questions, from setting up your tank and selecting fish to the water, chemicals, plants, and much more. For more make sure you check out [http://www.tropicalfish1.info] Article Source: EzineArticles

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How to Breed DWARF GOURAMI

Cichlids are not the only species to create a spawning site or to practise parental control over their young. Members of the Labyrinthfish group, such as Gouramies and Siamese Fighting Fish - also have a refined method of reproduction.

Dwarf Gourami female (Colisa lalia).
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

It is preferable to give these fish a separate tank in which to spawn; this is not just out of courtesy but perhaps to preserve the tranquility of the community aquarium. In this example, the Dwarf Gourami, Colisa lalia, might be thought a peaceful species but during the build up to spawning the male turns quite ferocious. In a tank containing mostly livebearers, one ardent Dwarf Gourami managed to kill off the majority of the other species before anyone realized what was happening.

There is no difficulty in sexing these fish. The male's flanks are adorned with bright red diagonal stripes and as the onset of spawning occurs his throat and chest region take on a turquoise hue. In contrast, the female can be said to be a little dowdy, just a silvery blue-grey color with only a hint of lines on her side. Of course, following a period of conditioning she will fill out as the eggs build up in her body.

The procedure of the spawning ritual is this: the male constructs a floating bubble-nest using saliva and also fragments of plant material. Usually this is placed in a quiet area of the tank, away from any flow of water returning from the filtration system. The nest extends 2-3 cm (1") into the air and has a diameter of around 10 cm (4"). At the end of this construction phase, the male then entices the female to inspect the structure and, if approval appears forthcoming then the next part of the spawning occurs. However, should the male decide that the female is not quite acceptable to him or she disdains his invitation and shows little interest in his labours then it is likely that he will attack her.

It is therefore important that the spawning tank is well-planted so that the female can escape from the male until she can be rescued (by removal from the tank by the fishkeeper). Of course, plant material is also welcomed by the male to provide building materials for the bubble-nest.

It is possible to condition a pair of Dwarf Gouramies in the spawning tank by using a piece of glass or sheet plastic to divide the tank into two sections. Simply place each fish in their respective halves of the tank and feed well for a couple of weeks.

At the end of the conditioning period, remove the partition and watch what happens, being prepared all the time to step in if the female is attacked. It may be that if a sheet of glass had been used as a partition, the male fish will have had continuous sightings of the female during the conditioning period and may well have begun, or even completed, building a bubble-nest in anticipation of their reunion.

Assuming that all goes to plan, the two fish will embrace beneath the nest, the female will roll over on to her back and the released eggs will be fertilized by the male and float up into the bubble-nest. At the end of the spawning action, the female will probably make a dash into the nearest plants, at which time she should be removed as she will take no further part in the spawning procedure.

Left to his own devices, the male sets about patrolling beneath the nest, regularly repairing parts of it that may be disintegrating and restoring any of the fry that fall out.

One problem with the Dwarf Gourami is the size of the fry or, to be more specific, their need for tiny food. Here the fishkeeper must fall back on to liquid fry food at least, or try a piece of hard-boiled egg yolk squeezed in a piece of cloth in some aquarium water. Do not add too much for fear of tank water pollution. Another possibility is to use 'green water'. This is something that is anathema to pond owners but it can contain microscopic life forms that the fry can eat. Unfortunately, this must obviously be produced ahead of the spawning in order to be ready when needed, so it takes a little forethought to prepare a jar of water and stand it in bright sunshine for a couple for weeks, although you could time it to coincide with the parents' conditioning period.

Eventually the fry will reach a size where they can move on to the usual fry-feeding programme.

There is often quite a high mortality rate of the fry. Some say this occurs around the second week and often point it to cold air entering the aquarium when the hood is opened. To this end, many drape a towel over the hood to exclude draughts but this must be done with caution if the hood is not to over-heat from the lights inside.

By Dedi Walker Dedi Walker is a writer and fish enthusiast. She shares additional information in sites such as Fish Tank and Tilapia Fish [http://www.tilapiafish.net]. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Caring for Bubble CORAL in an Aquarium

As more and more people set up saltwater aquariums, more are also adding coral to the décor. As with any living thing, it is best to understand the creature and how to care for it properly before bringing it home. Coral is no different as it is a live animal that you will be adding to your tank. The care and maintenance of coral should be well understood before making the final decision to add this beautiful animal to your aquarium.

Plerogyra sinuosa (Bubble Coral) under actinic light in aquarium (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The most common species of coral that are used in aquariums are called bubble coral. Due to the fact that they are so common, we will use this species as a guideline. Within the bubble coral family, there are three subspecies. They are simple bubble coral, pearl bubble coral and grape bubble coral. They are all cared for in the same way, so they will be referred to as bubble coral throughout the rest of the article.

One of the most important things to know about your coral is how to space them when you add them to the tank. Bubble coral have long tentacles which are armed with stinging cells. Mostly, they remain retracted until nightfall, when they are extended to aid in feeding habits. These tentacles will sting neighboring coral if they are close enough. Be aware of this as you position the coral in your tank and try to keep coral pieces at least 6 inches away from others.

As your consider the placement. Also take into consideration the available lighting where they are placed. If you have additional light sources aside from the tube in the hood, bubble coral should do well anywhere in the tank. If you are using the included florescent tubes for lighting, it may be better to place the coral closer to the surface. This species of coral prefers low movement of the water. Be sure not to place it in any direct current. Doing so will cause the coral's vesicles to remain closed. This will eventually result in death.

When you have the coral situated in the aquarium, you must remember it is a living animal and must eat just as your fish do. For bubble coral, feed it shrimp or small pieces of clam one to two times a week. Place the food morsels on the polyp of the coral. Any food that is trapped by the tentacles or among vesicles, will be eaten almost immediately. It is important not to overfeed the coral or your fish. Algae is a pest that will cause damage or even death of the coral. Keep the algae as controlled as possible by scheduled and routine cleaning of your aquarium. Bubble coral may also get flat worms. These worms are easily spotted and usually appear as circular spots on the coral's vesicles. They are not a cause for alarm and usually do little damage if any. However, if you notice a significant amount or a large population of these worms, you will have to take action as they could cause death.

Coral is a wonderful addition to any aquarium. Many people are uninformed as to how to care for this animal. It is advised that you learn all you can about the animal, how it functions and lives before adding it to the aquarium. Once you have the knowledge and can properly care for it, coral will help to create a studding underwater paradise.