GLOWLIGHT TETRAS Are Not Easy to Breed As They Are Not Known for Parental Care

Glowlight tetras fish is a nice-looking species with bright colors. As they are not very expensive and are available easily, they are picked up both by beginners as well as experienced fish-keepers.

Innovative breeders have recently developed number colorful varieties for this fish to choose from. As they do not require elaborate maintenance, keeping them is an enjoyable experience. However if you want to breed them, there are some specific things which you should keep in mind.

Tetra Glowlight Hemigrammus erythrozonus (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Breeding Glowlight tetras fish is considered moderately difficult by the fish-keepers. First of all, it is difficult to find out their sex because apparently there are no signs. You can take the help of a pet store while in bringing them home so that you can buy them in proportion of two to three females per male.

In the open nature, they can double their population in 15 months. However, their natural environment is difficult to replicate, the breeding becomes harder. In addition, Glowlight tetras fish are not famous for providing parental care to the young ones, so you have to look after the eggs as well as the fry.

When they are fully grown up and ready for spawning, you should shift them in the same proportion to a separate tank which you may call in breeding tank. Before that, you should feed them for at least 4 to 5 weeks very good food including live food. The breeding tank should be well decorated with live as well as artificial plants and there should be very low light in the tank. The temperature of the tank should be in the range of 78-84° F and the hardness of the water should be moderate.

Usually, the experienced breeders will keep males and females separately before bringing them together in the breeding tank. Once they are brought together, the pair will swim upside down and finally the female will start releasing the eggs. The fish will spawn on the leaves of the plant and there will be around 150 to 175 eggs at one time.

Some eggs will stick to the leaves of the plant while the others will fall down to the bottom of the tank. You should set up a spawning grate or glass beat at the bottom to take care of the eggs.

Once the spawning is over, you should immediately remove the adults from the breeding tank, otherwise they can eat the eggs. The hatching will take one or two days. The new ones will start swimming within about four days. You should feed them some special food like crushed flakes or baby brine shrimp.

The young ones are very delicate and if you are not keeping them in well-conditioned aquarium, they will not survive.

During their growth period, the water of the breeding tank should be absolutely clean and well treated. You should change the water frequently. Never change the entire water, but replace about 25 per cent of the water at one time. During their growth, there should be low lighting in the tank. You can increase the lighting gradually as they grow. They will develop the famous yellow stripe on their body in two to three weeks.

The fry will finally grow in about 4 to 6 weeks and then once they are adults, you can shift them safely to the main aquarium.

By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Different Types of SALTWATER AQUARIUMS

Saltwater aquariums should generally contain fewer fish than fresh water tanks, because the species tend to grow bigger in size. Marine species may be bred in a captive environment, or caught in the wild. Captive bred species are easier to care for and usually hardier than caught species. It generates a great amount of stress for a fish to be captured in the wild and then introduced into an aquarium environment. It is often difficult for them to figure out how to eat. Whenever possible, purchase your fish from a retailer that deals only with breeders or from the breeders themselves.  There are five different types of saltwater aquariums. 

Mandarinfish in aquarium-Muséum Liège (Belgium) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The first type of saltwater aquarium is the fish only aquarium. This is probably the easiest to care for of the five types, simply because you are only dealing with one type of species. Amongst the saltwater fish there are both tropical and coldwater types. They can't be kept together for obvious reasons. The water temperatures vary greatly. Tropical fish are usually brighter in color, and therefore more appealing to aquarium lovers than the fish available in the cold water variety. Most people are somewhat familiar with a few tropical fish such as the Clownfish or the Angel fish. However, few people have heard of such cold water varieties as, the Shanny or the Tompot Blenny.

The second type of saltwater aquarium is the invertebrate only aquarium. These types of aquariums usually consist of shrimp, prawn, hermit crabs and perhaps even starfish or sea cucumbers. The third type is the fish and invertebrate saltwater aquarium. These are more difficult to maintain than either of the two categories separately. Certain invertebrates feed on certain fish, and the reverse is also true. Therefore, it is important to research the species carefully to ensure that you do not put predator and prey together in the same aquarium. Diseases can also spread more rapidly and are more difficult to prevent and cure in aquariums containing both invertebrates and fish species.

The next type of saltwater aquarium is the coral reef aquarium. Reef aquariums can be tricky to maintain and must be thoroughly researched before attempted. The last category of saltwater aquariums is the specialty aquarium. An example of a specialty aquarium would be an aquarium full of sea horses. Sea horses should not be kept with any other type of fish or marine life, because they are timid and slow eaters. Their food source could easily be taken away by other tank mates. Seahorses prefer to swim vertically rather than horizontally, and should be placed in a tall tank.  An octopus and a shark or a ray are other examples of fish that require special needs and would fall into the category of specialty aquarium.  

Regardless of which type of saltwater aquarium is chosen, research is highly recommended before purchasing any marine life. Make sure you are willing to make the commitment required to care for a saltwater aquarium.

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FLOWERHORN Fish - A Hybrid Cichlid of South American Origins

One of the more unusual cichlid varieties is the flowerhorn. It is actually not a recognized species due to its hybrid origins. The actual parent species remains a mystery because the original breeder has not made the origins public. It is widely believed however that South American cichlids were used in it's creation.

The flowerhorn is an unusual looking species that can grow a large nuchal hump on it's forehead. Coloration can vary as many variations have been created using selective breeding. Red patterns with scattered black scales are typical of the fish frequently seen. Other types such as the red flame flowerhorn have large yellow areas at the dorsal end of the fish's body. The black scales are sometimes arranged into bands as seen in the red general flowerhorn.

Tanking (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Flowerhorns have the potential to grow quite large. 40 cm can be expected from a mature specimen. For this reason a large aquarium of 4 feet and upward is recommended. Due to their potential for aggression they are often kept alone or with other flowerhorns in such fish tanks. If your aim is to keep more than one fish it is advised to select the tank mates while young. By doing so they can become accustomed to one another and show less aggression once mature. Suitable fish to keep with flowerhorns are red devils and other large South American cichlids. Such species will be better suited to defend themselves than smaller varieties.

These fish should be cared for in the same way that other South American cichlids are. A high protein cichlid pellet can be fed though there are also foods produced specifically for flowerhorns. Water should pH should be kept in the vicinity of neutral using a test kit and adjustment additives.

As large cichlids have a tendency to rearrange their surroundings care should be taken in decorating the tank. Aquarium plants can not be used because thy will soon be uprooted and damaged n the process. Large stones and resin ornaments are suitable but heavy rocks should not have any gravel beneath them. This will ensure the object is not undermined and toppled onto the digging fish.

While these behaviors can be tiresome for the aquarium owner it is quite stimulating for the fish. To further amuse your flowerhorns additional objects can be offered from time to time. If you have several tanks the ornaments can be periodically switched around.

By Andrew Fuller Andrew Fuller spends much of his free time writing about aquarium related topics on a range of websites. He believes in free information for fish keepers who want to learn about their pass time. You may find buy flowerhorns online to be a useful resource from aquarium fish shop Article Source: EzineArticles

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Aquarium Care for SAND SHARKS

Sand sharks are viewed as the most timid and least aggressive of the shark species.  Sand sharks are usually smaller in size than other sharks and move fairly slowly. These sharks are found all over the Atlantic Ocean, and are the most common type of shark.  Although these sharks would seem to be the perfect aquarium kept fish, because of their smaller size, they are not.  They still grow to reach an average length of about five feet, and can weigh as much as three hundred pounds.  

Sand Sharks at Bethany Beach, Delaware. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This is really too large to keep in a home aquarium. The population of these sharks has dwindled in recent years, due to fishing activities. Therefore they are being considered for the endangered species list.  It would be irresponsible to attempt to house one of these creatures, unless fully educated on their care needs.  

Sand sharks adapt the best of all sharks to a captive environment.  The types of aquariums that house these very large fish are usually public state supported aquariums. These facilities have the resources to build large enough tanks to house the sharks.  Sand sharks can be kept in a tank with other large fish.  The sharks are usually fed three to four times a week to discourage them from eating tank mates.  For the most part this works well, although, every so often some of the fish seem to disappear. When housing sharks, care should be taken to ensure there is adequate space for swimming.  Sharks by nature cruise the open waters.  When visiting a public aquarium, notice sand sharks tend to be constantly moving, while some of the other fish just hang out in the tank.

A good alternative for a sand shark in a home aquarium is the catfish shark.   Although labeled as a shark because of their dorsal fins, these creatures are much smaller. They usually grow to be about a foot long.  They will still need a larger tank with plenty of space, because they too will have a cruising nature.  These fish, like true sharks will eat just about anything that will fit in their mouths.  Therefore be careful not to house it with smaller fish. The catfish shark should be kept in a tank with brackish water.  Brackish water is more difficult to maintain because it is a mixture of both salt and freshwater.  In the wild these fish live in areas where ocean waters meet streams or rivers.  The Albemarle Sound is an example of brackish water.

The same general type of equipment is required for brackish water and saltwater aquariums as fresh water.  It is a good idea to upgrade filters and heaters, however, because saltwater and brackish water fish are more sensitive to water irregularities.  Sharks are accustomed to a darker environment, so it is not necessary to have a lot of lighting. Sand sharks have the same basic care requirements as most other fish.  They need, and adequate food source, regulated water and an environment that would be similar to their natural habitat.      

BALL PYTHON

Description: 

Ball pythons grow to about 4 feet in length and some may grow to about 5 feet in length. They become nicely rounded if properly fed. They have anal spurs. These are single claws that appear on either side of the vent. Males have longer spurs than females and males also have smaller heads than females. They have blotches on a brown or bluish-brown background color. Colors may vary but there will be shades of yellow found in all ball pythons. 

Female ball python (Python regius) brooding a clutch of eggs. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Basic Care: 

Glass tanks can be used for housing with a fixed glass top. Ball pythons are more cunning than other snakes when it comes to escaping from the cage. A ten gallon tank can be used for a hatchling. A young adult will need a 20 gallon tank, and a full grown adult will need a 30 gallon tank. 

These snakes will adjust to the environment it is housed in, but will normally require a more humid area when it is shedding. If one notices that the snake has not eaten for a very long time though it is necessary, and it begins to lose weight, it must be shown to a vetenary. 

Diet: 

In the wild ball pythons eat amphibians, other snakes, small mammals and birds. They do not eat mice in the wild. In captivity one has to let them grow into the activity of being fed with mice. These snakes do not need to eat regularly and some may even live for up to a year without any food. 

Baby ball pythons can be fed with mice that have already been killed. If the hatchling is smaller than usual, a smaller mouse can be used as the feed. Adults may be fed with larger mice. These snakes do not need a regular feeding time table. Fresh water must be provided daily, as the ball python like others drinks and also soaks itself in the water. 

Heat and light: 

For the snake to be healthy proper temperature range must be maintained. A temperature of 80 to 85 ºF with a 90 degree spot for basking must be maintained in the day time. The temperature may be around 70 to 75 ºF in the cooler area. Heating pads may be used under the glass enclosure. 

Hot rocks will not be suitable because ball pythons are susceptible to thermal burns. Special lights are not needed, and a low wattage bulb can be used to view the snake in the day time. Ball pythons are especially prone to getting burned and so the light must not be kept directly above them. 

Environment: 

Ball pythons in the wild are found in generally temperate to arid areas. Initially paper towels can be used as substrate in the housing. This will also help determine if there are any mites present and also the feces can be monitored. Shredded cypress or fur bark can be used after the ball python is used to living in the enclosure. Pine and aspen shavings are not recommended, as they may get lodged in the mouth causing respiratory problems. Soiled shavings must be removed to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungus. 

An empty cardboard box or a log must be placed inside the cage for the ball python to use it as a hiding place. One must make sure the box is large enough for the entire snake to fit inside. The hiding place should not be too big as the snake likes to have a small place to hide. Fake branches and greenery may be placed inside the cage for the snake to climb and hang on. 

Behavior: 

They are active around dawn and dusk. They are comfortable on the ground and in the trees. They curl up tightly and put their heads in the centre when they become nervous. They are curious and gentle. Some ball pythons will not shed for a few months when they are initially in captivity. This means they are highly stressed with the surroundings.

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What Is LIVE ROCK and How Does It Benefit My Aquarium?

The three pieces of live rock that ended up in my reef tank,
prior to my prepping the tank for them.
 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

If you are looking for a natural way to filter the water in your marine aquarium, while adding to the overall natural beauty of your setup, consider installing live rock into your aquarium's ecosystem.

What is Live Rock?

Unlike the name suggests, live rock isn't actually alive, but the creatures that make the porous rock their homes are very definitely alive. When large ocean storms strike tropical reefs in places such as the Caribbean or the South Pacific, small parts of the reef are broken off by the action of the waves. These pieces of semi-fossil reef, along with all the organisms living inside and on this reef material, are collected for the salt water marine aquarium trade. Among the organisms which may be present with the rock are algae, salt water worms, bacteria, sponges and corals.

What Are the Benefits of Using Live Rock in Your Aquarium?

The key reason for installing live rock in your saltwater aquarium is the rock's ability to help filter your water naturally and process wastes produced by all the other organisms in the aquarium. Because it is very porous, there is space for both anaerobic (bacteria that does not need oxygen to survive) and aerobic (bacteria that needs oxygen for survival) bacteria.

Both bacteria types process the raw ammonia of the fish waste, along with leftover fish food, and convert these wastes into first, nitrite, and then, nitrate. After nitrate is formed, the anaerobic bacteria take over exclusively and convert the nitrate into nitrogen, a harmless gas that is released from the water into the air. When enough rock is added to a saltwater aquarium, the end result is a much cleaner environment for your marine fish.

Besides adding to the natural ecosystem of your aquarium, there are other benefits to introducing fiji or other types of rock to your aquarium. First, the live rock adds to the beauty of your aquarium. While watching the different organisms around the rock, you can almost feel that you're snorkeling in the warm waters of the Caribbean. Also, if you want to add corals to a reef aquarium, it gives you an adequate base for cementing the corals. Finally, your fish and other creatures living in your aquarium can use the organisms growing in and on the rock as food, and the rock itself can become shelter for them.

What Should You Know About Live Rock Before Buying?

The rule of thumb is to buy enough to match both your aquarium system's size and situation. If your saltwater aquarium contains only fish, one pound of live rock or more per gallon of water is a good idea. If you own a marine reef aquarium, you will need at least two pounds per gallon of water.

Another factor to consider when purchasing live rock is whether or not it has been treated in order to remove marine animals in the rock, which can die en route and making your water foul with decomposition. If the rock's been strongly treated, you may not have all the marine life you need to act as the biological filter you want. If possible, use live rock that hasn't been overly treated and is as fresh as possible.

A critical factor for filtration is the steady movement of water over and through the rock. If you have an abundance of marine animals living in your live rock, their movement as they go about their lives provides enough water movement for the biological filter to work. A large population of small organisms can give your rock more water movement capabilities that a few larger organisms, such as the movement of a large colony of small marine worms versus a few larger marine worms. Without steady water movement, the pores of the rock become choked with algae, which aren't enough by themselves to filter your water, and their death can actually increase the load of organic material your aquarium already has with the presence of other marine organisms.

IF paying $5 or more per pound, take a hard look at its surface. It really should appear to be alive with the movement of multitudes of organisms. If you see lots of plants and animals moving on the outside of the live rock, chances are good that the organisms you need inside the rock are also in place. We suggest or lower cost live rock which will become more live over time.

By Richard Gilliland Live Rock for sale at Salty Supply Article Source: EzineArticles

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GOLDEN LYRETAIL KILLIFISH Are Not Very Hard to Keep

Golden Lyretail killifish is found in Africa are especially in Angola, Cameroon, Gabon and Congo. In nature, they love to live in marshes and in water holes. So just like any other killifish, they love to live in ditches and channels.

A golden lyretail killifish (Aphyosemion australe) in an aquarium. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The scientific name for Golden Lyretail killifish is Aphyosemoin australe. They are not very hard to keep. They are small in size - can grow up to 2 1/2" inches. They are comfortable in the water having a ph level of around 6.0 and the temperature in the range of 77-83° F.

Their body is cylindrical and it is in elongated form which differentiates between a male and a female. They are surface feeders so their mouth usually faces upwards. The males will have multiple colors, predominantly golden, brown and orange. They will have all their fins - dorsal, coudal, and anal in a pointed shape. The females will have rounded fins and their colors will be dull.

They are peace-loving fish and they can live with any other species of fish in a community aquarium. So if you want to make your aquarium populated with colorful and multi-shaped varieties of fish, Golden Lyretail killifish should be your choice.

You can feed them with a variety of food. Usually they love to eat live food like brine shrimp or blood-worms but you can also feed them with dry and flaked food for their nutritional needs. Sometimes, you can feed them with boiled vegetables and they will be happy to eat them.

Even though they are not of demanding nature, you should provide them clean and well-treated water. There should be adequate filtration in the aquarium. As they are surface feeders, particles of food will escape and accumulate at the bottom of the aquarium. These particles will contaminate the quality of water. You should regularly clean the aquarium so that the level of toxic elements is kept under control.

Golden Lyretail killifish do not like to live in bright lights. So you should not provide too much lighting in your aquarium. You should also ensure that there is no direct sunlight hitting the aquarium water.

The breeding of Golden Lyretail killifish is not a difficult process. If you keep subdued lighting and a reasonable range of temperature, they will spawn. It is advisable to keep a group of a few females and one male in order to get good results. You should not keep more than one male in the aquarium because they may fight with each other.

The eggs will take about a couple of weeks to hatch. The new ones should be immediately shifted to a new tank. You should provide them food right from the first day. You should take special care in keeping the water clean and well treated because they will be very delicate for the first few weeks to sustain in tough conditions.

Golden Lyretail killifish are one of the most beautiful tropical fish and if you have a moderate-size tank, they will be happy to live with other species of fish.

By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. Article Source: EzineArticles

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