Tips on Raising Healthy GLASS CATFISH

The glass catfish or Kryptopterus bicirrhis and its smaller relative the ghost catfish are native to Indonesia. They inhabit the large rivers and turbid waters of Borneo, Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula and the Chao Phrayaa and Mekongg drainage basins. They live near the shorelines in water with strong currents. They are diurnal predators (active in daylight) whose diet consists mainly of true water bugs in the wild.

Photo by Matt Ryall 

Glass catfish are some of the most unusual fish you can buy for a freshwater aquarium. Their bodies are totally devoid of scales and their skin and meaty tissue is completely transparent. You can see right trough to its bones and internal organs and out the other side of their bodies.

As with all Catfish, they have barbells on either side of their mouths.

Glass catfish have a docile temperament. They make good community fish as long as they are in the company of similarly mild mannered fish. Glass catfish are a medium sized fish. They grow to about four inches in length. They are mid-tank swimmers.

The shoaling instinct runs extremely strong in these creatures. A glass catfish will not survive without another member of its own species in the tank. If you have two and one dies, the other will die shortly thereafter if you do not add another glass catfish to your tank. It is, therefore, advisable to keep at least four of them at a time.

Glass catfish are every bit as fragile as their name. They have been known not to survive the trip home from the fish store. Once home, their chances of survival are significantly increased in a heavily planted aquarium. They are a shy species and will fare much better given plenty of places to hide.

Glass catfish prefer neutral to slightly acidic water (pH 6.8-7.0). They are better suite for a water temperature a little cooler than some other tropical fish. The ideal temperature range is 70-79 degrees Fahrenheit. They function best in subdued lighting. And you want to have a filtering system that provides plenty of water flow to simulate the currents they are accustomed to living in. Under premium condition they have a life expectancy of 6 to 8 years.

Glass catfish are egg layers. Attempts to spawn them in captivity have thus far failed. So the ones you see at the fish store have been recently removed from their native environment. They may very well suffer from escalated stress levels until they adapt to their new surroundings.

Remember, these are not commercially raise fish. In the wild their diet consists primarily of true water bugs. They are carnivores that are accustomed to eating live food. In order to make help them adapt to their new environment you should start out by feeding them brine shrimp. Small insect larvae are preferable if you can find them. They will eventually learn to eat freeze-dried, frozen food and possibly even tropical fish flakes. But you still want to supplement their diet with live protein to insure their continued hardiness. These are, after all, rather delicate creatures.

By Stephen J Broy The mere mention of the word "saltwater" sends shivers up many freshwater aquarium owners' spines. In the past decade a new segment of the aquarium industry has been created for home aquarium owners; the Jellyfish Aquarium Fish Tank. Jellyfish aquariums are much easier to maintain than traditional saltwater tanks. Pet Moon Jellyfish look absolutely incredible under a fading LED lighting system. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Constructing the Perfect TURTLE or TERRAPIN Tank

If  you have decided to bring home a pet turtle or terrapin, you should know what  is necessary to house them comfortably. Depending on the kind of pet turtle or  terrapin that you choose, each has its own needs and requirements for living a  healthy and happy life in your home. Generally there are a few needs that most  turtles have in common as far as their habitat is concerned.

A hatchling Ornate Terrapin (Terrapene ornata ornata) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The  first thing to keep in mind is being able to provide them with a comfortable  environment that consists of a wet habitat and a dry habitat. This can be done by  constructing a turtle tank with both a wet area and a dry area in it. There are  certain things that you should provide no matter what type or gender of turtle  or terrapin you have.

The  wet aquarium should consist of water that is at the right temperature for them.  It need to constant filtration and regular cleaning. It should also include the  right levels of other materials such as rocks, plants and comfortable places  for your turtle to bask on.

Your aquarium should maintain a constant  temperature between environments to help your pet turtle or terrapin adapt to  the change between wet and dry more easily. You should also make sure you place  a constant supply of fresh water in a shallow container in the dry environment  for them.

Their  feedings should be done in water as they cannot swallow otherwise and you will  need to keep both environments clean on a regular basis.

Some pet owners make  the mistake of thinking that their pet turtles and pet terrapins do not require  a lot of care and cleaning, but in point of fact turtles would keep themselves  very clean in their natural environment. So you need to make sure there are  kept safe from any possibility of bacteria or soft-shell disease.

The  water should not be too deep and the basking ground should be made of small  pebbles and flat stones so that it is more comfortable for the turtle.

The  basking ground should either be in a very sunny spot, with natural, unfiltered  sunlight or be lit by an ultraviolet (or UV) lamp. Reptile UV lamps are  available at most pet stores and you should certainly invest in one for the  health and well-being of your pet turtle.

Liked this article? Read more at: Turtle and Terrapin Tank Article Directory: Article Dashboard

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A List Of Common FISH DISEASES And Their Symptoms

1. Bacterial Diseases in Fish

Bacteria are a very common cause of complaint for fish breeders. There are many bacterial diseases in fish caused due to pathogenic bacteria. These bacteria can either attack the fish externally, or can enter into the body of the fish through the skin and can damage internal organs, even leading to death. Fin rot and bacterial gill disease are the most common bacterial attacks in fishes, in which the fins and the gills are infected respectively. If the bacteria have managed to gain entry into the body, it is known as systemic infection. Bacteria can also cause ulcers and lesions on the body of the fish. Bacterial infections are easily apparent externally as ulcerous marks or red irritations on the skin of the fish. Bacterial infections are very common in koi fish. 

2. Fish Lice

Fish lice are scientifically termed as argulus, and being about a centimeter in size, they are among the largest parasites found in the animal world. They are very detrimental to the health of the fish, because they can suck out the fluids from the body of the fluids by clamping their proboscis like mouth into the bodies of the fish. 

Lice are easily to identify on the bodies of the fish because they are clearly visible. However, it is necessary to carry a careful inspection of the body of the fish, especially in the hidden areas behind the fins. Lice may appear as dark spots when they are not moving. If there are too many lice, the fish will be quite agitated and will move their body a lot. 

3. Flukes in Fish

Flukes are parasites in fish that are harmless in small numbers, but can be fatal to the fish in large numbers. Flukes are small, about 2 mm in length, and are almost invisible to the naked human eye. But these flukes have hooks through which they clamp to the bodies of the fish. Flukes can suck out the body fluids from the fish and even cause their death. The significant threat from flukes is that one fluke requires only one fish to complete its lifecycle, and therefore there is more reason why the fluke will remain clamped to the fish. Flukes have been considered to be the most difficult of the fish parasites to treat, though treatments with malachite and formalin often show positive results in stronger doses. 

4. Ich

Commonly known as ich, ichthyobodo or costia is a very common parasite that is found on the bodies of fish. Several fish can live with this parasite showing no signs at all. In fact, in small numbers, ich is harmless. The defenses of the fish can keep the number of ich under control. But when fish suffer from some other disease, the defenses are broken and then ich begins to multiply. Ich can multiply at a very fast rate. In no time, the fish will show a large amount of ich on its body, its breathing will become labored and shortly, it will retreat and isolate itself from the other fish. When this stage arrives, ich often proves fatal to the fish.

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Advice on Changing the AQUARIUM SALT WATER

Photo by FromSandToGlass 

If left in the tank the waste materials will turn the water cloudy, or even yellow and can cause a buildup of algae on the aquarium's sides. Plus it can also prevent the fish and corals (if you have any in yours) from growing in the way that they should, along with causing them stress, and this in turn could lead to them becoming ill. So the question you should be asking yourself is not should I change the salt water in the aquarium, but when should it be changed?

When Is The Right Time To Change Aquarium Salt Water?

Ideally you shouldn't be leaving the tank until such a time (maybe several months) before you change the aquarium salt water and provide all the tropical fish and invertebrates within it, a new clean environment. The big problem is that many people choose to remove the tropical aquarium fish and invertebrates from the tank, and then clean out the water completely. Unfortunately this could do your tropical fish, invertebrates and the reef inside more harm than good.

Rather what one should be doing is change a small amount of the salt water on a regular basis, and keep the fish and invertebrates in the tank as you do it. Ideally the best ratio when it comes to changing the salt water is to remove about 1/3 of the water from the tank and replace with the same amount of water.

Simple Steps To Take When Changing Aquarium Salt Water

1. First off you need to unplug every piece of electrical equipment, other than the light which is connected to the aquarium. The pumps and filters if left on, can actually overheat if they discover there is insufficient water in the tank. Also heater systems if left on when new water is added to the tank, may well cause the glass to crack (remember how much that tank initially cost and the price you will have to pay to replace it).
2. Take an aquarium scrubber or scraper accessories and use this in order to clean the inside of the glass of the aquarium to help remove any buildup of algae or waste deposits that have come from the fish food on them. You need to do this very slowly and gently in order to prevent the fish species from becoming panicked.
3. After scraping the glass you need to take out any plants within the tank and remove any dead or dying parts on them. Also stir up the gravel in the base (be careful as some fish like to bury themselves in it). As you do, bank some of it high towards the back corners of the aquarium and leave the levels lower in the middle and the front. Give the gravel time to settle and you will see waste deposits accumulate on top of the lower lying gravel.
4. Now you are ready to siphon off some of the aquarium salt water (remember only to take away around a third of the tank's water and no more). As you siphon off the salt water using one of the specialist aquarium products that allows you to drain water from the tank at the same time as removing the water, try to remove as much of the debris that has accumulated as possible.
5. Next you need to replace the water that has been removed and it is best to use aged rather than freshwater. This you can do by either letting it stand for some time or by adding certain salt mix products to it. You should only ever add aquarium salt to your water and never just sea salt. Also make sure that the temperature of the water you are putting into the tank is within 2 degrees Fahrenheit of the temperature of the water already in the tank. Then add some aquarium salt if you want.

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Ultimate Secrets to Saltwater Aquarium Fish and Corals

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Finally, all one now needs to do after changing the water in your tank is to plug back in and turn on the pieces of equipment that you originally turned off at the start. Also why not at this stage give the cover of your tank a cleaning and the light along with the outsides of your tank.

By Trish Hunter For more saltwater aquarium tips and saltwater aquarium supplies visit The Aquarium Lady [http://www.theaquariumlady.com] Article Source: EzineArticles

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Aquarium Care for the Freshwater GUPPY

Guppies are perhaps the most popular type of freshwater fish to keep in an aquarium.  Luckily, they are fairly easy to keep as well.  Guppies are hardy fish that can adjust easily to minor fluctuations in water quality.  However, don't allow these fluctuations to become common practice, as they do cause some stress to the fish.  The water temperature in an aquarium for guppies should be kept between seventy two and eighty two degrees. The P.H. level should be kept between 7.0 and 8.2.  As you can see these specifications are much more forgiving than those for certain tropical or marine fish. 

Guppies mature quickly and usually only grow to be about one and a half to two inches long.  There small bodies and feathery fan like tails add a lot of interest to the tank.  They are just fun to watch.

English: Pregnant guppy at about 26 days, named Betta, in author's aquarium (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

As with any type of aquarium, there are three basic components to caring for the fish.  Diet is very important. Guppies should be fed very small amounts as often as three times a day.  Guppies will eat just about anything, but their main diet should consist of frozen or flake foods.  This should be especially regarded when there are baby guppies in the tank, because guppies will eat their young.  The next most important feature to caring for any fish is appropriate water regulation.  The specific temperatures are listed above, but it is also important to make frequent water changes. Usually every one to two weeks, depending on need.  If the water starts to smell or become cloudy, this is a good indication that it is time to change the water.  If water changes are made gradually, meaning change approximately one third of the tank at a time, then there is little disruption made to the fish.

Last on the list for keeping fish healthy, is to keep them happy.  Try to recreate their natural environment.  It is recommended to keep a variety of plants in the aquarium for guppies to seek refuge.  There should be about one to two inches of substrate in the bottom of the tank.  Colored rock or dead crushed coral make a nice addition to the aquarium, and may help to make the fish feel more at home.  

A few varieties of guppies are the Fantail, Flagtail, Spadetail, Deltatail and the Roundtail.  The names of all of these different types of guppies focus on the tails because they are so remarkable and unique.  The tail itself is usually about one third of the size of the whole fish.  It is possible to mix guppies with other varieties of fish. However be careful when mixing because, guppies are targeted as easy prey due to those fancy tails.  Guppies breed very quickly, usually about every three to four weeks.  They will interbreed amongst themselves, so the aquarium could very quickly become filled with many different varieties of color.  It is very feasible to have an attractive aquarium without having any other fish at all.  If you don't want the species to interbreed, simply keep them in separate tanks.          

Association of Zoos & Aquariums (AZA)

The Association of Zoos & Aquariums was established in 1924. Known simply as AZA, the organization is not for profit. It is dedicated to ensuring all of the animals at the various zoos & aquariums have the very best elements in place. They have strict guidelines for the way these animals are to be cared for. They offer their accreditation only to those locations that continually strive to follow or exceed those guidelines. 

Fishes in Aquarium (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This type of accreditation is very important. People that visit zoos and aquariums are very interested in the efforts for wildlife conservation. They won’t frequent a place that doesn’t uphold the very best of standards. Not having such an accreditation can prevent a zoo or aquarium from getting the animals they want. This can result in lower attendance too because they don’t have the main attractions that appeal to large audiences.

The AZA is also very involved in educational programs that promote the well being of animals. They like to make people of all ages more aware of the impact that animals have on our own lives. They want them to be aware of how their own actions can be a positive or negative impact on such animals. This is why so many zoos and aquariums allow schools to bring in bus loads of children for field trips on a regular basis. The images of what is taking place and the educational materials can be planted into their young minds for them to carry with them as they become adults.

AZA takes any complaints from employees and guests at zoos & aquariums very seriously. They will take the time to look into such issues and explore the options for effectively resolving them. They will also randomly send representatives out to the various zoos & aquariums to make sure they are indeed doing thing correctly.

AZA continues to develop and implement better ways to house the animals at zoos & aquariums. They want to give them the best environment to live in that is reflective of their own. They also want to ensure people are able to get a good view of these animals. Safety is a very important part of making sure both people and animals can enjoy the atmosphere at a zoo &  aquarium.

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All About BUMBLEBEE CICHLIDS

The bumblebee cichlids are fresh water fish from the cichlid family. Their scientific name is Pseudotropheus crabro. They are also known as the hornet cichlid. These fishes are basically cave fish, since they live in large caves. Their pH preferences is mid while they are found in areas between the temperatures of 24°C to that of 26°C.

The fishes in this specie have a barred "bumblebee" pattern on their bodies which makes them specifically attractive to children. Their bodies are elongated and have yellow and black bars spawn all over their bodies.

Pseudotropheus Crabro Mâle (dominant) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When they are younger, the bumblebee cichlids are brightly colored and start to darken when they grow older.

One thing about the bumblebee cichlids fish is that they are very aggressive and should not be placed with other kinds of fishes in a community tank. During breeding, the males turn into an almost total black color.

The bumblebee cichlids change color very rapidly. For the females, they change their color to a black murky black.

The fish generally feed on parasites found on other fishes such as the bagrus cat fish. At times the bumblebee cichlids will prey on the eggs of the bagrus cat fish. Due to their fast color change ability, the bumblebee cichlids take up a dark brown color when preying on the eggs.

In normal circumstances, the bumblebee cichlids males will harass the female or other less aggressive males. They may even go to the extent of killing them. To remedy this, it is a good idea to place a few more females in the fish tank as well. One male bumblebee should be placed in a group of around six other females. This encourages spawning.

To determine the gender of the fish, pay specific attention to the color as well as the size. Male cichlids will usually display a larger frame than the females. On their bodies, they have a bluer coloring. The females on the other hand have a more pronounced yellow and gold.

Although very easy to breed, these kinds of fish should be watched carefully. When the males darken in color, their behaviors change and they create their own special territory in the tank. The male bumblebee cichlids then welcome one female at a time and circle and dance around.

The female lays the eggs and the male will sperm them. She then takes the eggs and the sperms into her mouth. The female then incubates the eggs in her mouth up to 21 days.

Female bumblebee cichlids usually eat the eggs while under stress. This may be caused by the male when he harasses her. The best remedy for this is to switch the female to a different tank. Here, she will incubate the eggs and hatch them, after which she will release them into the tank.

If this is not possible, design your tank in a way that it has more rocks. This will greatly help the females when they are in the incubation period. They will need a place to hide from the male bumblebee cichlids.

By Pauly Freeman Want to know more about bumblee-cichlids ? Then check out www.CichlidsSite.com [http://www.cichlidssite.com/] for the latest info on caring for, breeding and raising big beautiful cichlids. Article Source: EzineArticles

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