The Baltimore Aquarium, opened in 1981, is world-famous, and is Baltimore's leading tourist attraction. Built on the Inner Harbor, the National Aquarium is located within a triangular glass building that is a Baltimore landmark. The Aquarium provides cultural, recreational, and educational experiences that meet the needs of various communities. The aquarium is a major factor in the economic revival of the region; it has created jobs and demonstrated a viable model of business profitability.
National Aquarium, Baltimore, USA (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The Aquarium blends naturalistic exhibitions with the most modern interpretive techniques, enthralling visitors by highlighting the beauty of the aquatic world and soliciting an emotional response in visitors, and the awareness that all of us have a responsibility towards the environment.
Exhibits create a natural-looking environment for all varieties of species. Specimens are carefully selected, and explain biological concepts in an interesting and accurate way.
The collections have a representation from diverse worldwide habitats. The exhibits start with samples of marine life from local waters, followed by eye-to-eye views of sharks, dolphins, rays, stingrays, sea turtles, bullfrogs, phytoplankton, iguanas, puffins, poison dart frogs, and other tropical fish among the more than 10,500 creatures in naturalistic exhibits, including a simulated rainforest ecosystem, and regularly scheduled dolphin shows.
The admission charge is a bit expensive and there is often a long wait to get in, but the visit is worth it. Even disabled people can visit the aquarium through a separate entry.
Of all the aquariums of the country, the Baltimore Aquarium is rated No. 2 with the Monterey Bay Aquarium in Monterey, California at No. 1. The Zagat score rates the Baltimore aquarium at 26, the Camden Yards are rated at 25; the Maryland Science Center is at 24; the Baltimore Zoo is at 23 and the American Visionary Art Museum is at 22. The Baltimore Aquarium is also available for rent; it's an ideal place for corporate events, banquets, and special celebrations. Whatever the reason for the visit, the Baltimore Aquarium is sure to win everybody's heart.
By Alison Cole
Baltimore [http://www.z-Baltimore.com] provides detailed information on Baltimore, Baltimore Aquarium, Baltimore Inner Harbor, Baltimore Hotels and more. Baltimore is affiliated with Atlantic City Casinos [http://www.z-AtlanticCity.com].
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This article will discuss some of the more common aquarium lights (lamps) available as well as a few that are not as well known such as the SHO and T2 bulbs/fixtures.
Common aquarium bulbs include the:
*Metal Halide (MH); These are the reigning "Kings" of reef aquarium due to depth penetration, output, spectrum, and over all beauty and amount of coral life they help support. Even the newer T-5 lamps cannot achieve the depth penetration and overall output of these lights.
Metal Halide work via a gas mixture of halides and other elements. The actual light production comes from the small bubble of gas that is held in place by metal wires and/or supports. The electricity running between them and the small gas bubble, heats them, similar to an incandescent filament. This is one of the reasons that Metal Halide bulbs give off more heat than other bulbs.
The downside is the heat that MH lights produce, often resulting in the need for hood fans and even chillers. Two sizes I most often have used are the 10,000 K 175 watts and the 20,000 K 250 watts for really deep tanks (over 30")
*LED: The new reef compatible LED is likely to take over the market as they become more readily available, the price comes down and watts per lumen come up. These lights do not have the heat problems and are very compact. LED lights may prove to be more suitable for aquatic life tank-lighting and reef tanks because they offer superior flexibility when compared with traditional fluorescent lighting. When LED lights operate, the photometric radiation remains within a narrow band on the electromagnetic spectrum. Specific photometric wavelengths are often beneficial to some aquatic plant life and reef tanks. Controlling specific wavelengths becomes possible through a basic network of colored LED lights connected to a digital LED controller. Since LEDs emit light only in very specific direction, the installer has the option to illuminate a precise area by simply rotating the polycarbonate tube casing. The water resistant casing also provides the LED circuitry with adequate protection against moisture and chemicals found within the fish tank or reef tank.
So far the there are mixed reviews on the larger units such as the Solaris that replace the MH. The manufacturer of the Solaris claims "PAR light output levels equal to a 400W MH 20k. It uses 40% less energy than the 400W MH 20k fixtures it replaces. The life of the LEDs is approximately 50,000 hours, so it almost eliminates metal halide and fluorescent bulb replacements. All heat is radiated up and away from the tank; therefore, it does not heat the water like Metal Halides or Fluorescents. This eliminates the need for Chillers." However data shows 20 lumens per watt, MH bulbs provide around 50 lumens per watt as the output.
*T-12; a standard pin, 1-1/2" wide bulb. This bulb will generally use more watts per lumen output
*T-8; a standard pin, 1" wide bulb. As compared to the T-12, a 48" T-12 will use 32 watts, while a 48" T-8 will use 32 watts.
*T-5; Generally around 13 mm in diameter. This is a mini pin bulb which generally uses even less watts per lumen than many than T-8 bulbs.
*T-2; These bulbs are the latest technology yet. They measure only 7 mm and allow for several bulbs in a small space. A 13 watt 20 inch T-2 Bulb (6400 K) produces 950 lumens which is 73 lumens per watt in a very small space!
Quite bluntly, these T2 lamps and fixtures are about the best bulbs in a small space I have seen! These are very useful for small planted aquariums or Nano Reefs or even shelves for betta breeders. I expect these new T-2 lamps to sweep the smaller aquarium keeping hobby due to their extremely high efficiency and out put.
*VHO; this stands for "Very High Output". These come in T-5 thru T-12 standard fluorescent tubes and in the newer power compact (usually 4 pin) lamps such as the New generation Via Aqua Helios VHO. The new Helios come in a variety of sizes with outputs up to 180 watts out of lamps under 40 inches in length, which rival many Metal Halide (although not in depth penetration). These new higher output VHO fixtures/lamps have higher Kelvin and wattage output than previous generation VHO lamps/fixtures of similar size. These can be used for both marine reef applications as well as freshwater planted aquariums (these new VHOs are not scheduled for full release to the public until early 2008).
*PC; this stands for "Power Compact". These bulbs come in straight pin arrangements, square pin arrangements, and the ever more popular self ballasted standard incandescent fixture "screw in" type. These bulbs along with T-5s tend to be the most efficient.
A new Power Compact that in my opinion is awesome for planted aquariums and even for reef aquariums (as an addition to LED or Metal Halide) is the self ballasted SHO (Super high Output) PC bulbs. The 105 Watt SHO Daylight bulb puts out 6300 lumens and is comparable to a 525 watt Standard bulb (click on the picture for a link). This comes out to 60 lumens per watt, however this is a deceptive guide, as you can fit many more of these bulbs in a given space and also utilize more efficient reflectors.
The SHO can be mounted into your hood using a standard incandescent fixture or better, hung as a pendant light using reflector similar to how Metal Halides are commonly installed
For more information about aquarium lighting, please see this URL from which this article is snipped in the resource box:
The Malawi Cichlid aquarium needs water that is medium hard and alkaline. Crushed coral sand/gravel, crushed oyster shells, and limestone can all be used to bring down the pH in the tank. There are also products you can buy to amend the pH level such as Proper pH. It is important not to let the alkalinity of the water fluctuate too much, lest it have a bad effect on your cichlids. Cichlids are able to live in environments that are outside of their optimal range, but only if they are slowly introduced to those conditions. Even though they are hardy, any sudden changes in water chemistry can adversely affect them.
Aquarium fish from Lake Malawi, in Africa (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Water temperatures should be kept between 76F and 79F. Malawi Cichlids do not tolerate hot water well at all, so be careful not to place their tank in close proximity to windows or heaters that can raise the temperature of the water. A digital water heater can help to regulate the water temperature automatically.
The Malawi Cichlid aquarium must also have proper filtration and lighting. Filters that hang on the back of the tank are recommended over the under gravel filters since Cichlids do like to dig. This fish produces a lot of waste and will fall ill if the water is not regularly cleaned. As for lighting, a fluorescent light is ideal since it does not produce heat, promotes fish growth, and helps to bring out the natural colors of the fish.
Malawi Cichlids do not need plants in their aquarium. In fact, they would be much happier with plenty of sand and rocks. The species out of Lake Malawi will prefer more sand while the Mbuna variety prefers more rocks. For this reason, among others, these two cichlid species should not be kept in the same tank. If you really want to add plants, it is recommend that you add hardy plants that are found in Lake Malawi. Unless of course you enjoy replacing plants every month after your cichlids terrorize them.
This article is only meant to introduce you to Malawi cichlid aquarium setup and there is a lot to learn outside of what I wrote here. The best thing to do to is research the conditions in Lake Malawi and try to find ways to mimic those conditions in your aquarium. When you have mastered that aspect of your aquarium, the fish pretty much take care of themselves.
If you want more details about setting up a Malawi cichlid aquarium you can find them on my cichlid website. On my site you will be able to find information about everything to do with cichlids, including everyone's favorite: Cichlid breeding [http://www.cichlidfishcentral.com/cichlid-fish-articles/cichlid-breeding-overview/].
Neon Tetra fish (Paracheirodon innesi) are a very popular aquarium fish, especially amongst beginner fish keepers. It is estimated that each month, 1.5 million neon tetra fish are imported into the United States, mostly from Singapore, Hong Kong, or Thailand.
Neon tetra fish are a freshwater fish that originate from western Brazil, south east Columbia and eastern Peru. They are found in their natural environment in both blackwater and clearwater streams. They have bright colors and an iridescent stripe so they are visible in dark blackwaters.
Like other tetra species, the neon tetra has a blunt nose and a spindle shaped body. A glistening blue line runs along either the side of their body from the nose to the adipose fin. They also have a red stripe that runs from the center of the body to the base of the tail fin. The rest of the body is silver in color.
At night, when the fish is resting in shelter, the bright colors will be turned off and the fish will appear dim. This is normal. If however, the aquarium is lit and the fish are still dull after some time, they may be stressed or ill, or their diet is not correct.
Neon tetras are a schooling fish. They should be kept in groups of at least five, but preferably ten or more. If kept alone they will become stressed and spend the majority of their time hiding. They will grow to a maximum adult size of about an inch. They are a peaceful fish and can be kept in community fish tanks with other non-aggressive fish of roughly the same size. The neon tetra is probably the most robust of the tetra species when it comes to water conditions. They look very beautiful when combined with other species of tetra. It is not recommended to combine the neon tetra with any larger or more aggressive fish as they will most likely become prey.
As a general rule of thumb when choosing a fish tank for your fish, allow one gallon of water per inch of fish. So if you were going to keep ten neon tetras in your tank, you would need to select at least a ten gallon tank for your fish. An aquarium kit [http://fishtanksdepot.com/aquariumkits.html] or aquarium starter kit is a great way to purchase everything you need to get started for a very reasonable price. The aquarium kit will often include a filter, water conditioner, fish tank and fish food at a minimum.
When setting up your tank for your new neon tetra, try to mimic their natural habitat. Your aquarium should have a dark colored gravel and dense planting, with plenty of hiding spots. Also allow an open space for swimming. Neon tetra fish are active when kept in a shoal, and will spend the majority of their time in the middle to lower levels of your tank. Adding a floating plant to your habitat will help to darken your aquarium which your fish will love.
Keep the water temperature in your tank to between 68 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH levels in the tank should be between 5.0 and 7.0, and the dH range 1-2. As with all fish species always gradually adjust your neon tetra fish to new conditions. Failing to do so can cause harm to your fish.
Neon tetra fish are not fussy eaters. Feeding them flake food, freeze dried food and frozen food is all acceptable. Vary their diet to prevent malnutrition. Use a variety of high quality tropical flake food and occasionally as treats brine shrimp, bloodworm and daphnia, as an example.
Groups of neon tetras are naturally very beautiful to watch in an aquarium owing to their bright, glistening colors. They are a great fish to keep as they are peaceful and can be more decorative than wall paintings and mesmerising than the television when kept in your living room!
There are times in every parent's life when his or her child, pet, or goldfish gets sick. Goldfish are prone to many ailments, and even the most common ones can be life threatening. Prevention and monitoring your fish are the best ways to keep your pet from contracting a disease.
Ryukin goldfish with swim bladder disease. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Being the good parent that you are, you have probably studied and memorized the normal movements and behaviors of your goldfish. If Goldie happens to become ill, look for signs that differ for their normal swimming patterns.
If your fish is shaking, hiding in corners and isolated places, gasping for breath near the surface of the tank, has his fins pressed together in a clamped fashion or demonstrates any other strange behaviors, it might be a good indicator that he's coming down with an illness. Once you've noticed these odd actions, take a closer look at your fish and see if there are discolorations or markings on his body.
Fish with certain parasites might have red and inflamed areas, sometimes around the gills, or might have swollen blood bumps on eir bodies. Check for damaged fins, cloudy eyes and bumps or blisters that appear on the scales.
There are many common goldfish ailments that can be identified by examining your pet's physical appearance. Once you have identified that there is definitely something wrong with your goldfish, it is a good idea to isolate him from your other fish in a hospital tank.
The hospital tank is prepared in advance and made to match the current environment of your fish, so that he won't go into shock. If the ailment turns out to be contagious, it's not a bad idea to treat your other fish as well as the sick one.
Unfortunately, some fish, no matter how hard you try, do not overcome their illness and continue to suffer until they pass away. Many people do not like to see their fish in constant pain and fell that euthanasia is appropriate. There are many methods out there for ending the life of a goldfish, so be sure to choose one that does not cause your fish even more pain.
While there are plenty of goldfish illnesses, there are just as many ways to treat them. Prevention and care is the best medicine for keeping your goldfish buddy in tiptop shape.
There is nothing wrong with wanting a reptile for a pet, provided of course you first arm yourself with knowledge. Education is the key to being a responsible owner. Of course, there are instances when you may not first get the chance. Suppose your well-meaning relative decided it would be a good idea to give you an exotic pet for a gift, not thinking of the reptile's welfare should you be unable to care for it or uneducated about its care. But, of course there are always exceptions to the rule.
An Eastern Bearded Dragon displays its beard in a threatening position. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
There are ways of choosing your pet when you do decide to obtain a reptile. You can choose to buy a pet to fit the cage you are able to get, or you can buy a cage to fit the pet you want. Either way you go, please make sure you take into account that the reptile will grow and must be able to fit into the enclosure as it gets bigger. Please refrain from purchasing the reptile if you will be unsure about being able to afford a larger cage later on or if you won't have the space. There are plenty of other choices you can make that will fit into your budget.
A Leopard Gecko is a popular lizard choice for people who want a reptile that will be smaller than the Iguana. The Iguana has been known to reach 7 feet in length! A bigger lizard means a bigger cage and a bigger food bill. The Leopard Gecko only reaches 10 inches. There's obviously quite a difference there. First time owners have more success when they start small and build up to the other interests. This lizard also stays active at night, so night owls may get more enjoyment from it than someone who wants to interact or watch their reptile during the day. The Leopard Gecko can live up to 15 years and is easy for a beginner to care for.
A Bearded Dragon is a popular lizard choice. They're fond of crickets, but they also need fresh vegetables and fruits like the Iguana. The Bearded Dragon looks fierce and beautiful when it fans out its spiky beard. These reptiles can grow to 20 inches. Blue skinks are known for their blue tongues. Skinks can grow anywhere from 12 to 20 inches, depending on which type you get. They enjoy a diet of earthworms. This may be easier to stomach than the diet of mice and rats a snake requires!
Another common lizard choice is that of the Green Anole, also known as the American chameleon. While it isn't actually related to the chameleon, it is able to change colors from green to dark brown. This reptile only grows to 9 inches normally and eats insects.
Whatever your choice of lizard or other reptile as a pet, just make sure you do your research before you purchase. If you are given the animal as a gift, please educate yourself as quickly as possible to prevent unintentional harm to the reptile.
Saltwater enthusiast have developed a love affair with coral reefs. There is nothing they love better then to design, stock and maintain a saltwater aquarium that is teaming with coral.
For years only the most adventurous were brave enough to tackle the challenges proposed by a reef saltwater aquarium. Until recently coral reef was notoriously hard to maintain.
Times have changed. Now there are several varieties of coral that even the most novice saltwater aquarium owner can enjoy.
The key to successfully maintaining a reef saltwater aquarium is to have your saltwater reef aquarium properly set up.
The first thing you'll want to find is a tank. Select the largest possible tank that you feel comfortable with. The greater the size of your tank, the greater the water mass encompassing the reef, and the more you will be able to duplicate the effects of the ocean. You can choose either the classic look of a glass aquarium or you can select an acrylic tank which gives you a larger variety of shapes and styles. Acrylic tanks are also more durable then glass tanks. Make sure that there is absolutely no copper anywhere in the tank. Copper has a lethal affect on coral.
Before adding the coral to your tank make sure that the temperature of your water stays consistent. The temperature should remain at 23-25 degrees Celsius (73-77 degrees Fahrenheit). Your coral will remain healthier in water that is always at the same temperature.
It is very important that your reef saltwater aquarium be properly filtered. The three types of filters are mechanical, biological, and chemical.
A mechanical filter is a filter made out of spun nylon floss. Mechanical filter trap and remove wasteful material and prevent your chemical and biological filters from becoming clogged. There are a variety of biological filters. Some use the tanks aquarium substrate as a part of the filtration system. The purpose of biological filters is to contain the biochemical properties and to break down waste products.
Chemical filters absorbs the ions of dissolved waste. Chemical filters are typically based on active carbon.
Many reef saltwater aquarium owners like to use other products such as Bioballs and Protein Skimmers to assist with their filtration system.
The PH level of a reef saltwater aquarium should hold steady at 8.2.
Coral reefs require a filtration system that circulates the tanks water. Moving water tends to be rich in oxygen and the currents carry food to the invertebrates living inside the immobile coral. A submersible pump will do wonders to increase the water flow in a saltwater aquarium.
When you decide that it is time to stock your reef saltwater aquarium with fish you need to remember a few things before rushing out to your favorite fish store.
Bear in mind that just because a variety of fish lives in the ocean does not automatically mean that it's compatible with coral. Some fish eat the invertebrates that make the coral reef their home. Some fish produce waste that is toxic to the coral. Some fish, like Blow-fish, produce a toxin when they die that can kill every living organism in your aquarium.
