2017-05-09

ELECTRIC CATFISH - Malapterurus electricus

Electric Catfish - Malapterurus electricus




2017-05-08

Unique Characteristics of the CLOWN LOACH

The clown loach has many unique characteristics starting with their morphology. They have a spine underneath each eye that becomes erect when they are stressed in some way. They can use it to defend themselves or attack other fish, which only happens in one instance as far as I know because the clown loaches are very peaceful normally. When you have multiple clown loaches that are added to an aquarium they may squabble in order to figure out who is going to be the Alpha, the top dog as it were. In these fights the sub ocular spines are erect and some fish may sustain permanent scars or other minor damage. 

Chromobotia macracanthus syn. Botia macracanthus
Chromobotia macracanthus syn. Botia macracanthus (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When a clown loach is caught for transport they will generally erect their sub ocular spine. At this point you have to be careful that you're not stabbed with the spine when handling the fish. Also, if you're using a net the spine can easily get caught and possibly cause major injury to the clown loach. Another consideration of the spine is that if you put the clown in a bag for transport they may rupture the bag with their spine. So you're better off double or triple bagging them, or even better still would be to transport them in a solid container. You may also see the spine erect when the clown is sharing a tank with more aggressive species of fish.

The docile clown loaches scare easily so it's recommended that you have other peaceful species for them to share an aquarium with. Sometimes the spine can remain erect for more than 12 hours after an encounter, eventually it will go back to resting position. Something you may notice when taking a careful look at a clown loach is that they don't appear to have any scales. Don't believe everything you see though. They do have very small and faint scales on their body, but none on their heads. They also don't have any skin covering their eyes.

Another curious thing that you will notice is the clicking sound clown loaches make when they're eating or squabbling. It can get quite loud, so loud in fact that you might be fooled into thinking that the aquarium has cracked. They make the clicking sound by grinding their pharyngeal teeth. Imagine if you were sitting beside a river bed in Borneo (where clown loaches live) and you begin to hear them clicking; thousands of them clicking. I think it must get just as loud as many frogs on a pond, but I digress.



During the late spring you may notice some strange behaviour from your loaches at dinner time. Well, you can always expect strange behaviour from them, but this behaviour only happens once a year for a short period of time or it may not happen at all. Some aquarists find that their clown loaches have 'feeding frenzies' in the late spring. They all attack the food as though they haven't been feed in weeks. I speculate that they do this because of something in their natural habitat. It could be a time when food is scarce for them in nature or maybe they need to get as much food as they can for the breeding season.

For the sake of keeping this article short I have limited the unique attributes to only a few, but if you have a clown loach you know there are many more.



2017-05-06

Care of Live AQUARIUM PLANTS

To add that special effect and enhance the natural setting within your aquarium, try using live plants instead of fake plastic plants. The use of live plants will not only add a pleasing visual appeal, but will also help maintain your tank. By adding oxygen to the water, the use of live plants helps keep your aquarium balanced and will aid in fish health.

240 litres aquarium with different fishes, pla...
240 litres aquarium with different Aquatic plants: Echinodorus, Anubias barteri var. nana, Hygrophyla difformis, Microsorum pteropus 'Windeløv, Micranthemum micranthemoides, Vallisneria sp, Echinodorus tenellus, etc.
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)

The most important factor in growing and maintaining healthy aquarium plants is the lighting used. For a well planted aquarium, it is suggested to use 2-3 watts per gallon of water. The use of fluorescent bulbs is practical and adds a nice lighting effect. Take caution when deciding to use florescent lights if your tank has a depth of 20" or more. The low growing plants, or plants with multiple leave levels will suffer from a lack of light as the florescent rays will not provide enough light.

Once you have figured out what type of lighting you will use, you must turn your attention to the hardness of the water. The majority of aquarium plants will thrive in water that has a hardness between 4-12 dH, and between the range of 6.5-7.2 for pH. Plants need clean and clear water to survive best in, so proper cleaning and maintenance should be performed on the aquarium. Most plants will not survive if there is too much debris or waste in the water, so keeping up with cleaning is essential.

Once your plants are established in a clean, well lighted tank, you must care for them by making sure they receive the nutrients required for healthy growth. Plants need both macro- and micro nutrients. Macro nutrients are usually found naturally in tap water and in the fish themselves. These nutrients include nitrates, sulfates and phosphates. Macro nutrients should never need to be added to the water of the tank. They exist on their own. Micro nutrients are needed in very small amounts. Copper, iron and zinc are among the micro nutrients live plants will need to survive in the aquarium.



Generally, the water and the fish in the tank will provide the nutrients and fertilizers needed for plant growth. It is rare that any supplements will need to be added. One important factor in having healthy plant life is your filtration system. Stay away from under gravel filters because they produce a steady flow of bubbles that disturb the surface. The filter plate on under gravel filters also limit's the composition of the gravel in which the plants are rooted. All other kinds of filtration systems will work well. The only things to be concerned about are if your filter causes too much disruption to the water surface. When this happens, carbon dioxide is lost and plants will suffer. Also make sure the filter creates a current that keeps nutrients moving throughout the tank.

By having a good chemical balance in the aquarium and having an efficient filtering system, you will be sure to have healthy live plant growth. These plants will add to the beauty of the tank and will also keep your fish relaxed because it will be a natural setting for them. If you are considering adding plants for decoration within the aquarium, consider the great benefits of using live plants.


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2017-05-05

BALTIMORE AQUARIUM

The Baltimore Aquarium, opened in 1981, is world-famous, and is Baltimore's leading tourist attraction. Built on the Inner Harbor, the National Aquarium is located within a triangular glass building that is a Baltimore landmark. The Aquarium provides cultural, recreational, and educational experiences that meet the needs of various communities. The aquarium is a major factor in the economic revival of the region; it has created jobs and demonstrated a viable model of business profitability. 

National Aquarium, Baltimore, USA
National Aquarium, Baltimore, USA (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Aquarium blends naturalistic exhibitions with the most modern interpretive techniques, enthralling visitors by highlighting the beauty of the aquatic world and soliciting an emotional response in visitors, and the awareness that all of us have a responsibility towards the environment.
Exhibits create a natural-looking environment for all varieties of species. Specimens are carefully selected, and explain biological concepts in an interesting and accurate way. 

The collections have a representation from diverse worldwide habitats. The exhibits start with samples of marine life from local waters, followed by eye-to-eye views of sharks, dolphins, rays, stingrays, sea turtles, bullfrogs, phytoplankton, iguanas, puffins, poison dart frogs, and other tropical fish among the more than 10,500 creatures in naturalistic exhibits, including a simulated rainforest ecosystem, and regularly scheduled dolphin shows. 

The admission charge is a bit expensive and there is often a long wait to get in, but the visit is worth it. Even disabled people can visit the aquarium through a separate entry.

Of all the aquariums of the country, the Baltimore Aquarium is rated No. 2 with the Monterey Bay Aquarium in Monterey, California at No. 1. The Zagat score rates the Baltimore aquarium at 26, the Camden Yards are rated at 25; the Maryland Science Center is at 24; the Baltimore Zoo is at 23 and the American Visionary Art Museum is at 22. The Baltimore Aquarium is also available for rent; it's an ideal place for corporate events, banquets, and special celebrations. Whatever the reason for the visit, the Baltimore Aquarium is sure to win everybody's heart.

    By Alison Cole
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    Article Source: EzineArticles


2017-05-04

AQUARIUM LAMP, Bulb Types

This article will discuss some of the more common aquarium lights (lamps) available as well as a few that are not as well known such as the SHO and T2 bulbs/fixtures.

Common aquarium bulbs include the:

*Metal Halide (MH); These are the reigning "Kings" of reef aquarium due to depth penetration, output, spectrum, and over all beauty and amount of coral life they help support. Even the newer T-5 lamps cannot achieve the depth penetration and overall output of these lights.

Metal Halide work via a gas mixture of halides and other elements. The actual light production comes from the small bubble of gas that is held in place by metal wires and/or supports. The electricity running between them and the small gas bubble, heats them, similar to an incandescent filament. This is one of the reasons that Metal Halide bulbs give off more heat than other bulbs.

The downside is the heat that MH lights produce, often resulting in the need for hood fans and even chillers. Two sizes I most often have used are the 10,000 K 175 watts and the 20,000 K 250 watts for really deep tanks (over 30")

*LED: The new reef compatible LED is likely to take over the market as they become more readily available, the price comes down and watts per lumen come up. These lights do not have the heat problems and are very compact. LED lights may prove to be more suitable for aquatic life tank-lighting and reef tanks because they offer superior flexibility when compared with traditional fluorescent lighting. When LED lights operate, the photometric radiation remains within a narrow band on the electromagnetic spectrum. Specific photometric wavelengths are often beneficial to some aquatic plant life and reef tanks. Controlling specific wavelengths becomes possible through a basic network of colored LED lights connected to a digital LED controller. Since LEDs emit light only in very specific direction, the installer has the option to illuminate a precise area by simply rotating the polycarbonate tube casing. The water resistant casing also provides the LED circuitry with adequate protection against moisture and chemicals found within the fish tank or reef tank.

So far the there are mixed reviews on the larger units such as the Solaris that replace the MH. The manufacturer of the Solaris claims "PAR light output levels equal to a 400W MH 20k.  It uses 40% less energy than the 400W MH 20k fixtures it replaces.  The life of the LEDs is approximately 50,000 hours, so it almost eliminates metal halide and fluorescent bulb replacements. All heat is radiated up and away from the tank; therefore, it does not heat the water like Metal Halides or Fluorescents. This eliminates the need for Chillers." However data shows 20 lumens per watt, MH bulbs provide around 50 lumens per watt as the output.

*T-12; a standard pin, 1-1/2" wide bulb. This bulb will generally use more watts per lumen output

*T-8; a standard pin, 1" wide bulb. As compared to the T-12, a 48" T-12 will use 32 watts, while a 48" T-8 will use 32 watts.

*T-5; Generally around 13 mm in diameter. This is a mini pin bulb which generally uses even less watts per lumen than many than T-8 bulbs.

*T-2; These bulbs are the latest technology yet. They measure only 7 mm and allow for several bulbs in a small space. A 13 watt 20 inch T-2 Bulb (6400 K) produces 950 lumens which is 73 lumens per watt in a very small space!

Quite bluntly, these T2 lamps and fixtures are about the best bulbs in a small space I have seen! These are very useful for small planted aquariums or Nano Reefs or even shelves for betta breeders. I expect these new T-2 lamps to sweep the smaller aquarium keeping hobby due to their extremely high efficiency and out put.

*VHO; this stands for "Very High Output". These come in T-5 thru T-12 standard fluorescent tubes and in the newer power compact (usually 4 pin) lamps such as the New generation Via Aqua Helios VHO. The new Helios come in a variety of sizes with outputs up to 180 watts out of lamps under 40 inches in length, which rival many Metal Halide (although not in depth penetration). These new higher output VHO fixtures/lamps have higher Kelvin and wattage output than previous generation VHO lamps/fixtures of similar size. These can be used for both marine reef applications as well as freshwater planted aquariums (these new VHOs are not scheduled for full release to the public until early 2008).



*PC; this stands for "Power Compact". These bulbs come in straight pin arrangements, square pin arrangements, and the ever more popular self ballasted standard incandescent fixture "screw in" type. These bulbs along with T-5s tend to be the most efficient.

A new Power Compact that in my opinion is awesome for planted aquariums and even for reef aquariums (as an addition to LED or Metal Halide) is the self ballasted SHO (Super high Output) PC bulbs. The 105 Watt SHO Daylight bulb puts out 6300 lumens and is comparable to a 525 watt Standard bulb (click on the picture for a link). This comes out to 60 lumens per watt, however this is a deceptive guide, as you can fit many more of these bulbs in a given space and also utilize more efficient reflectors.

The SHO can be mounted into your hood using a standard incandescent fixture or better,  hung as a pendant light using reflector similar to how Metal Halides are commonly installed

For more information about aquarium lighting, please see this URL from which this article is snipped in the resource box:




2017-05-03

Basics of MALAWI CICHLID Aquarium Setup

The Malawi Cichlid aquarium needs water that is medium hard and alkaline. Crushed coral sand/gravel, crushed oyster shells, and limestone can all be used to bring down the pH in the tank. There are also products you can buy to amend the pH level such as Proper pH. It is important not to let the alkalinity of the water fluctuate too much, lest it have a bad effect on your cichlids. Cichlids are able to live in environments that are outside of their optimal range, but only if they are slowly introduced to those conditions. Even though they are hardy, any sudden changes in water chemistry can adversely affect them.

A sampling of aquarium fish from Lake Malawi, ...
Aquarium fish from Lake Malawi, in Africa (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Water temperatures should be kept between 76F and 79F. Malawi Cichlids do not tolerate hot water well at all, so be careful not to place their tank in close proximity to windows or heaters that can raise the temperature of the water. A digital water heater can help to regulate the water temperature automatically.

The Malawi Cichlid aquarium must also have proper filtration and lighting. Filters that hang on the back of the tank are recommended over the under gravel filters since Cichlids do like to dig. This fish produces a lot of waste and will fall ill if the water is not regularly cleaned. As for lighting, a fluorescent light is ideal since it does not produce heat, promotes fish growth, and helps to bring out the natural colors of the fish.

Malawi Cichlids do not need plants in their aquarium. In fact, they would be much happier with plenty of sand and rocks. The species out of Lake Malawi will prefer more sand while the Mbuna variety prefers more rocks. For this reason, among others, these two cichlid species should not be kept in the same tank. If you really want to add plants, it is recommend that you add hardy plants that are found in Lake Malawi. Unless of course you enjoy replacing plants every month after your cichlids terrorize them.

This article is only meant to introduce you to Malawi cichlid aquarium setup and there is a lot to learn outside of what I wrote here. The best thing to do to is research the conditions in Lake Malawi and try to find ways to mimic those conditions in your aquarium. When you have mastered that aspect of your aquarium, the fish pretty much take care of themselves.

    If you want more details about setting up a Malawi cichlid aquarium you can find them on my cichlid website. On my site you will be able to find information about everything to do with cichlids, including everyone's favorite: Cichlid breeding [http://www.cichlidfishcentral.com/cichlid-fish-articles/cichlid-breeding-overview/].
    Article Source: EzineArticles



2017-05-02

Keeping NEON TETRA Fish As Pets

Neon Tetra fish (Paracheirodon innesi) are a very popular aquarium fish, especially amongst beginner fish keepers. It is estimated that each month, 1.5 million neon tetra fish are imported into the United States, mostly from Singapore, Hong Kong, or Thailand.

Neon tetra fish are a freshwater fish that originate from western Brazil, south east Columbia and eastern Peru. They are found in their natural environment in both blackwater and clearwater streams. They have bright colors and an iridescent stripe so they are visible in dark blackwaters.

peace with my buddies
Photo Flickr - Leino88 


Like other tetra species, the neon tetra has a blunt nose and a spindle shaped body. A glistening blue line runs along either the side of their body from the nose to the adipose fin. They also have a red stripe that runs from the center of the body to the base of the tail fin. The rest of the body is silver in color.

At night, when the fish is resting in shelter, the bright colors will be turned off and the fish will appear dim. This is normal. If however, the aquarium is lit and the fish are still dull after some time, they may be stressed or ill, or their diet is not correct.

Neon tetras are a schooling fish. They should be kept in groups of at least five, but preferably ten or more. If kept alone they will become stressed and spend the majority of their time hiding. They will grow to a maximum adult size of about an inch. They are a peaceful fish and can be kept in community fish tanks with other non-aggressive fish of roughly the same size. The neon tetra is probably the most robust of the tetra species when it comes to water conditions. They look very beautiful when combined with other species of tetra. It is not recommended to combine the neon tetra with any larger or more aggressive fish as they will most likely become prey.


As a general rule of thumb when choosing a fish tank for your fish, allow one gallon of water per inch of fish. So if you were going to keep ten neon tetras in your tank, you would need to select at least a ten gallon tank for your fish. An aquarium kit [http://fishtanksdepot.com/aquariumkits.html] or aquarium starter kit is a great way to purchase everything you need to get started for a very reasonable price. The aquarium kit will often include a filter, water conditioner, fish tank and fish food at a minimum.

When setting up your tank for your new neon tetra, try to mimic their natural habitat. Your aquarium should have a dark colored gravel and dense planting, with plenty of hiding spots. Also allow an open space for swimming. Neon tetra fish are active when kept in a shoal, and will spend the majority of their time in the middle to lower levels of your tank. Adding a floating plant to your habitat will help to darken your aquarium which your fish will love.

Keep the water temperature in your tank to between 68 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH levels in the tank should be between 5.0 and 7.0, and the dH range 1-2. As with all fish species always gradually adjust your neon tetra fish to new conditions. Failing to do so can cause harm to your fish.
Neon tetra fish are not fussy eaters. Feeding them flake food, freeze dried food and frozen food is all acceptable. Vary their diet to prevent malnutrition. Use a variety of high quality tropical flake food and occasionally as treats brine shrimp, bloodworm and daphnia, as an example.

Groups of neon tetras are naturally very beautiful to watch in an aquarium owing to their bright, glistening colors. They are a great fish to keep as they are peaceful and can be more decorative than wall paintings and mesmerising than the television when kept in your living room!

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