Exotic Pets: HERMIT CRAB

Hermit Crabs have no directly relation to crabs. They come from the super family Paguroidea. They are named as ‘hermit’ crabs because it is their characteristic to occupy abandoned seashells. They do this to protect their delicate abdomen. Nearly five hundred species of hermit crabs are known to exist and most of them live in water. They live in colonies of approximately hundred occupants.

A blue-legged hermit crab cleaning shells in an aquarium
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

As the hermit crab grows it changes its shell and searches for a bigger one. Also, hermit crabs with well fitting shells grow faster than the ones with tight shell and the later ones becomes a prey very easily. But the availability of abandoned shells is less and hence the hermit crabs fight each other so as to get ownership of a shell. The number of shells available depends on the population of gastropods around. Very rarely do hermit crabs trade each other’s shells. The new shell will be selected if it is at least one-third bigger than the present shell. The hermit crabs also have a tough exoskeleton, which doesn’t grow with the hermit crab. But the crab shed this exoskeleton and grows another one very fast. This process is known as molting. Molting cannot be determined before hand, but hermit crab does become inactive and may bury itself in the gravel for two weeks. A small hermit crab molts once a month and larger crabs molt once every eighteen months.

Hermit crabs are even kept as exotic pets. Pet owners like them because they are the one requiring least-maintenance of all the exotic pets. They do not grow more than the size of a peach and can be kept in a normal aquarium. They are scavengers and feed on algae and debris formed in the aquarium. Many of the species of the hermit crabs are part of the marine aquarium trade, some are herbivorous and some are omnivorous. Blue legged crab, zebra hermit crab, red reef hermit crabs, common hermit crab and red tip crab some of the types of hermit crabs which are kept as pets. The most desirable of them is the red reef hermit crab or scarlet hermit crab. It has a bright red body with yellow colored eyestalks. But some even grow to nearly twelve inches and feed on clams, corals, and crustaceans.

The aquatic hermit crabs live in salt water with salinity ranging from 1.023 to 1.025. The temperature should vary from seventy-five degree Fahrenheit to eighty degree Fahrenheit for the tropical species. The aquarium gravel bed should be filled with algae and they should also be provided with different types of shells for the hermit crab, to choose from. If they have a larger option they will change their shells frequently, which is an interesting activity to be watched. Food dishes can also be added as a landscape, but the dishes should be low so that the hermit crab can climb out of it. Even other activities like digging, climbing, etc. are very interesting to observe.

They should be fed and watered daily. Commercial food is available at the pet store. But along with that, fresh vegetables and fruits can also be added to the diet. Care must be taken that the fruit or the vegetable shouldn’t be left in the aquarium for more than one day or else it will contaminate the water. The gravel must be removed and the tank should be washed every month. They also must be watered, meaning that everyday they need to be sprinkled with lukewarm water. This applies for land hermit crabs.

It is very easy to train a hermit crab. Training is more like playing. The hand must be held out and the hermit crab must be allowed to crawl on the palm. If the hermit crab pinches and doesn’t let go, run the area under a little lukewarm water and it will immediately let go.

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Save Money on Distilled Water in SALTWATER AQUARIUM

Once upon a time, people believed that heating distilled water was dangerous because it heated faster then regular tap water. This has since been proved to be untrue. Distilled water does not heat any faster then your everyday, run of the mill, tap water.

By Tappinen (Own work)  -  Wikimedia Commons

The definition of distilled water is water that virtually has had all its impurities removed through the act of desolation. Water is distilled by boiling it. As the water boils the steam is captured and then re-condensed into a clean container. Many companies have started considering cheaper alternatives for purifying water, one such method is deionizing the water. As of yet alternate methods, while successful, have been unable to completely purify the water.

Distilled water is commonly used in lead acid batteries, automotive cooling systems, and steam irons.

Another popular use of distilled water is in aquariums. Aquarium enthusiast use distilled water in their tanks because it lacks chemicals that are often found in run of the mill tap water. Many tap waters contain chlorine and chloramine, which are fatal to fish. 

All to often aquarium owners are stunned to learn how much money they spend each year just by purchasing gallon after gallon of distilled water. On way saltwater aquarium owners can save money is by distilling their own water, provided that they are willing to improvise. The first thing you will need to do is to find away to heat/boil the water, this can be done with either a gas or electric stove. Any normal cooking pot will do for the heating. The next thing to do is find a way to catch and cool the steam, because the typical cooler is made out of a long spiral shaped piece of copper tubing. Saltwater aquarium owners will have to find a different piece of tubing because water distilled in copper is fatal to the invertebrates that live in coral reef. If you are unable to find a spiraled pipe consider using a pot and to lids. As the water boils it will start to condense on the lid of the pot, this is distilled water. Cover the pot with the second lid and pour the condensed water into a cup. Repeat the process until you have enough water for your tank. It takes a long time to gather enough water.

When setting up a saltwater aquarium it is important to remember that the distilled water must be supplemented. By itself the distilled water is to pure to sustain aquatic life. It is also important to make sure that the distilled water you are using has not been stored in any containers containing copper. The addition of copper in the saltwater is lethal to the invertebrates that live in coral reefs.

Anyone who is unsure about the purity of their tap water should plan on using distilled water when they are setting up a saltwater aquarium.  Make sure you add a saltwater mix to the distilled water.

After filling the tank with water and installing your filtration system it's recommended that you let your tank sit empty for a few days. When the water quality tests accurately after the tank has been running then you can add your fish. Double checking your water could potentially save you from accidentally destroying your fish.

SUNCORAL- Tubastrea

Suncoral - Tubastrea

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CHEMICALS in your Aquarium

You've seen all those chemicals at the Pet Store, and you've wondered if you'll need one bottle of each of them.  And then you wondered if you still want to get into this aquarium hobby after all.  Well, here's the good news, most of that stuff is unnecessary, even worthless.  Don't get me wrong, you'll occasionally need some of these products, but there is only one of these chemicals that you'll always use, so let's start there.

The tap water that you are using to fill your tank, it contains chlorine. It's harmless to people, deadly to fish, so you'll need to remove it.  Now, don't panic, you won't need one of those kits that Grissom uses on CSI.  Indeed, a single bottle of dechlorinating liquid is cheap and lasts for months.  Just make sure that you read the label because some of the products are concentrated differently, so some of them require fewer drops per gallon of water.

The chlorine in your tap water actually dissipates fairly quickly, completely breaking down in about 24 hours.  So in a pinch, you could just fill your bucket and let it stand for a day before using the water, but with the cost of dechlorinating products so low, it hardly seems worthwhile.  Just remember, if you chose to use the "let stand" method, make sure you place your water in a location where it will not be contaminated.

You should also invest in a bottle of test strips.  These strips, after being dipped into water, will show you a variety of information about your water.  Your Ph level, water hardness, ammonia level, nitrates, and nitrites can all be tested using the most common dip strips.  That's a lot of information; in fact, it is more than you'll actually need.

The truth is that most commonly sold aquarium fish will do just fine in any normal Ph range or water hardness level.  Don't worry if your fish type comes from Peru where it lives in soft acidic water because the fish you bought was probably born and raised in a fish farm in Florida.  Then it was packaged up in a big bag of water and sent to your pet store where it was dumped into the local tap water.  Most fish are NOT that picky, but they do need clean water, and that's where the test strips come in handy.

When your fish eats, it produces waste.  This waste then breaks down into ammonia, which in turn changes to nitrites, and then into nitrates.  Like chlorine, these chemicals can damage and even kill your fish.  So you need to remove them if they rise to a high level.  The test strips will tell you if your levels are too high, and if they are, your answer is fairly simple-it's time for a water change.

Once your tank has been established for a few months, you will not have to test it as often because your tank will develop beneficial bacteria that help break down these chemicals more quickly.  For the first few months though, you should probably check your tank once per week or so, making sure you have time to do a water change if it should prove necessary.

And that's basically it.  Oh, there are chemicals that will lower your Ph, or raise it, medications for sick or injured fish, chemicals to destroy algae, expensive aquarium salts, and all manner of other niche products that you really do not need.  These products are available to keep the fish store in business.  Most people and their fish NEVER need these products, so unless you have a sick fish, just stick to the basics.  You'll save some money and avoid driving yourself crazy.

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Dangerous REPTILES

When people decide to buy reptiles for pets, some inevitably cross the line of safety and wisdom.  Although it may seem thrilling to own a pet that is harmful, it's best left up to the experts and people who are trained to preserve wildlife.

An eyelash viper, Bothriechis schlegelii , taken at Melbourne zoo in Australia. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Underestimating a dangerous reptile can mean a quick and certain death to the uneducated and careless pet owner.  But if you're determined to own a dangerous reptile, at least make sure you are aware of all the possible safety precautions.  Be fully informed as to what steps to take should you incur injury from contact with your pet.

A pet may harm an owner for several reasons.  A reptile has instincts that are inbred.  If you make the mistake of smelling like food, you will be in danger of being mistaken for food.  There's also the danger of underfeeding your reptile and having them strike out in desperation from starvation.  If you startle the reptile, you're likely to be harmed.  If the reptile is injured or ill, the pain may cause them to strike out.  Although it is easy to want to blame the reptile, you must take into account the reasons it may have chosen to bite, scratch, or otherwise harm someone.

Neglect to keep the cage, terrarium, or other enclosure secure at all times is crucial to your safety and to the safety of the reptile.

Some snakes have teeth, some have venomous fangs, and some have constriction to use as weapons.  Whatever the case may be, you can be certain it will be painful to the recipient.  Vipers and rattlesnakes are two dangerous snakes that use their poisonous fangs to inject venom into their prey or attacker.  Vipers can grow as long as 6 feet and don't need daylight to attack.  The pits between their eyes and nostrils alert them to their prey.  A beautifully dangerous reptile, the golden eyelash viper is a bright lemon yellow color.

Snakes aren't the only dangerous reptiles, nor are they the only dangerous reptiles chosen for pets.  Crocodiles and caymans are also big predators.  They latch onto their prey with their many teeth and powerful jaws, and then they drag the larger victims underwater to drown them.  Crocodiles have been known to gobble snakes for treats!

American alligators can be seen in many museums or zoos, live in exhibits.  Well known in the deep south of Louisiana, they are not only predators but also are hunted for food and to be cut up into trinkets sold to tourists.

The alligator disguises itself as a log in swamp water and is camouflaged very well.  They live in swamps and bayous from Texas to North Carolina.  Florida has an abundance of inland water that provides a perfect habitat for these reptiles.  Their diet of fish, birds, and small animals along with their size and vicious capabilities make them unwelcome to most as pet material.  Their habitat is hard to create as well.

You can tell the difference in crocodiles and alligators by the shape of their snouts and the way the teeth lay when the jaws are shut.  The alligator is able to conceal its teeth inside its mouth while the crocodile is not.

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CICHLID CARE - Caring For African and American Cichlids

African Cichlid  Photo by Marcel Sigg 

One of the most important principles of cichlid care is water quality. Water chemistry, temperature and salinity are very important factors in keeping your cichlids thriving, healthy and happy. Different types of these unique aquarium fish have their own unique and strict water requirements.

Africans generally need their water a little saltier than American varieties, so do your cichlid care research wisely. For this reason alone American Cichlids and African Cichlids simply don't do well as tank mates. I have seen fellow aquarists get each species to survive while living in the same tank, but they simply cannot thrive with each other. For that matter, different varieties of African Cichlids have their own unique water chemistry requirements. Again, do your research wisely.

Another important principle in cichlid care is providing adequate tank decor, or lack thereof. Smaller varieties of cichlids, particularly the African varieties, need lots of nooks and shelters to hide in. Larger varieties such as Oscars simply will destroy almost anything you put in the tank with them. I have found, after years of keeping and caring for Oscars, they will do quite well with drift wood. It will give their tank mates like plecos and corys something to gather around.

American Cichlid - Severum Photo by Chun's Pictures 

Angel Fish and Discus love a heartily planted aquarium. In my opinion, they need a planted aquascape to thrive as they would in the wild. By the way, Discus are absolutely beautiful when they are happy and stress free.

Article Directory: EzineArticles

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Vegetable List For Feeding PLECOS

This is a list of a lot of Vegetables and some fruit that can be fed to your plecs. Also included are some suggestions for weighing the veg down in the tank.

IMPORTANT

1. Make sure you have an ID of your plec to ensure the correct dietary needs are met.

2. A varied diet of veg+fruit is needed so that nutritional needs are fulfilled.

3. Don't forget to include algae wafers, meat, and wood depending on species of plec.

4. If you put in anything that contains the skin or rind be sure to scrub it first to get rid of any pesticides.

A Baby Plecostomus
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

STARTER LIST

This is a list of vegetables and fruit that are popular with most plecs. Zucchini/Courgette Cucumber Peas (deshelled) Sweet Potato Green Beans Melon/Melon rind

OTHER VEGETABLES AND FRUIT

Apple (doesn't seem to be too popular) Asparagus Aubergine/Egg plant Avocado Broccoli/Stalk Butternut Squash+ other squash Capsicum/Bell pepper (not the hot ones) Cauliflower/Stalk Carrot Coconut Grapes Kale/Collard Greens Kiwi Fruit Lettuce Lima Beans Mango Mushroom (common plecs and goldspots love mushroom) let it float,they will reach it. Good exercise. Papaya Potato Pumpkin Spinach Sprouts Swede Tomato Yam

Most veg can be given raw but if you find no-one is interested then try blanching. Don't leave veggies and esp fruit in for too long otherwise you can end up with water quality problems. The easiest approach is to add them in the evening and remove in the morning.

SUGGESTIONS FOR WEIGHING DOWN VEG

Stainless Steel spoon (push the spoon through the veg) Stainless Steel fork (there have been suggestions that plecs have hurt themselves on the prongs of forks, use at your own risk) A rubber band/rock Suction capped Veggie clip (fish shops usually sell these) Screwcumber.

By Lisa Deckard Article Source: EzineArticles

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