FRESHWATER AQUARIUM History and You

Photo Flickr -  n5_w1150 (cc)

The history of the freshwater aquarium and aquariums, in general, are varied depending on who you speak to. What is important today is how aquariums evolved and what they have evolved into. Also, the fact that aquariums do have a history, and it is rather interesting. From ancient Mesopotamia to modern-day Miami, aquariums have been apart of human life and have been written about by countless people who for one thing, liked their entertainment appeal as well as the reported soothing effects on the king and queen of ancient times.

The many ancient drawings, carvings, and pictures of aquariums from places in antiquity like Eqypt and Sumeria show us that these past peoples knew the beauty of the tanks and they also desired to maintain that beauty and pass on the secrets of these creatures. The ancient Romans were also known to have traded live fish as commodities in their agoras (markets).

Goldfish and Koi fish

In another part of the world, the art of selective breeding began in China around 2,000 years ago. They had been known to produce the now-famous goldfish developed from the regular carp. By the 18th century, goldfish as an ornamental fish was common in Europe and later became popular in America.

Cultured live koi – that familiar fish with the red, white and black coloration, was already a commercial item in the old trade routes that spanned China, Japan, and Europe around the 16th century. Later, its reputation also grew and became very popular. Much later, it was also exported to Europe and America.

Crude Beginnings

In the early 19th century, aquarium-keeping began. England, Germany, and France all vied to top themselves in mounting exhibits of public aquariums. It did not get a good reception as many were appalled by it.

At that time, there was very poor understanding yet on the various roles of water chemistry, the nitrogen cycle, filtration, and aeration. The size of the tanks was also limited by the holding power of the construction materials then.

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The First Aquarium

In 1850, a Mr. Harrington declared through a paper he wrote for the Chemical Society of London that he had successfully maintained a stable aquarium. Fish-keeping suddenly became a popular hobby.

Three years after, many Zoo’s and farms began to open the first public aquariums one after another when they noticed a good turnout. Soon, public aquaria were all over the major European cities patronized by eager but intrigued visitors.

Household Items

It was not long after when the aquarium became a fashionable household item in Victorian England. Curiously, there were no tanks for sale then, although there were various books and other how-to manuals already available for constructing aquariums.

The first constructed tanks leaned more to the ornamental side rather than being functional at best. Most early designs featured a glass front and three wooden sides (They were sometimes constructed from slate). They were coated in pitch to make them watertight.

Tank Basics

Soon, these construction problems were overcome little by little. There was a real breakthrough with the development of silicone sealants.

It became possible now to manufacture an all-glass aquarium in all sizes and shapes. Bulky steel frames became obsolete and tanks can now be moved without the danger of breaking the seal.

Understanding Technology

At around this time, a better understanding of the needs of the tank’s fish inhabitants led to the invention of the heater and the thermostat, as postulated by a Mr. Humphreys. In maintaining fish, this person would be the one to mention the significance of the tanks chemistry toward the safety of the fish.

With a deeper understanding of water chemistry and other related matters, filtration and lighting were soon recognized as additional important elements to the total upkeep of the fish in the aquarium.

The Modern Aquarium

Today’s modern aquariums are made mostly of glass. Nowadays, more tanks are being made from acrylic instead of glass because it doesn’t break as easily. This is because acrylic is pliable and can be used to manufacture unusual shapes. (Acrylic aquariums are mostly used in big showrooms in business and office buildings today.)

Nowadays, aquaria made of acrylics are regarded as the lightweight alternatives to those made of glass. This is especially true now that manufacturers had produced harder and scratch-resistant plastics. Perhaps, they would replace the unwieldy glass in the future.

Photo by BioDivLibrary

Improved Technology

Also, there had been such long strides made in the improvement of the accompanying technology related to aquarium keeping: heating, lighting, filtration, and aeration among others.

Apart from the technology, there is now a better understanding of marine life and ecology that pushed the hobby into what it is today. Taking together both marine and freshwater aquarium varieties, the simple hobby of keeping a living fish in a bowl had become the world’s 2nd most popular hobby. (Gardening is number one.)

The Future Of The Aquarium

There is now a growing number of fish varieties available for keeping in aquariums and the size and shape of aquarium tanks have evolved, too.

However, according to experts, the future of the hobby is still focused on the next advances in water purification, nutrition, lighting and other related matters. Fish breeding is an old and popular practice that has become quite popular around the world with good breeds being created constantly. (Genetic manipulation is still frowned upon.)

Whatever direction the hobby is moving into, today’s hobbyists are reminded that they are part of a thousand-year-old freshwater aquarium history as they tinker their aquariums and feed their aquatic pets.

By Bob Finklea - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Meet the MANTIS SHRIMP

Photo by Elias Levy

The Mantis Shrimp is also called the stomatopod. They are actually not mantids nor shrimp, but they do resemble both those animals. They usually may reach about a foot in length, although unusual specimens have been noted that were a bit longer.

The carapace of a mantis shrimp makes a cover for the head’s back side. They may appear in different colors, from brownish to neon. They are commonly seen in the animal world, and they are among the more important of the predators in the habitats they live in. They can be found in shallow water in sub-tropical and tropical areas.

These animals were dubbed “sea locusts” by the Assyrians of ancient times, and in Australia, they are known as “prawn killers”. They have powerful claws, and these can be used to lure, attack, and then kill their prey by stunning, spearing or dismemberment. The breed is sometimes thought to be only a legend, due to rare sightings in some areas. These are made up for by areas with many sightings, however.

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The mantis shrimp spends its life in a solitary manner but can be aggressive. They can often be found hiding in formations of rock, or burrowing passageways into the sand. They sometimes wait for their prey, as typical crustaceans do, but they are also able to hunt down their prey. They don’t often leave their holes except to eat or relocate.

There are about 400 species of the mantis shrimp, and they are usually split into two groups, by the functions of their claws. The Squilla mantis has a spearing appendage, and they have little appendages with tips that are barbed, which they use to snag and then stab their prey. The smashing types possess a more clublike claw which they can utilize to break their meals into more easily manageable pieces.

Both types of mantis shrimp strike out at their prey by unfolding and then swinging their claws, and they can inflict damage on their prey even if the prey is bigger than they are. Smashers attack rock oysters, mollusks, crabs and snails, and their clubs allow them to crack their preys’ shells. Spearers often go for the meat that is not hard to get to, like fish.

Mantis shrimp live long lives, and they can exhibit behavior considered complex, like ritualized fighting. They can remember neighbors well, and they will defend their own areas from rival species.

These mantids may breed as many as twenty or thirty times in their lifetime. The eggs are kept in burrows or carried beneath the female’s tail, emerging when they hatch. In some sub-species, the female and male are together only for mating, while in others, they mate for life.

By Jenny Styles Article Source: EzineArticles

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How to Treat ANCHOR WORMS on GOLDFISH

Anchor worms are another external parasites that often affects goldfish and other types of fish that is quite common. Anchor worms often referred to as Lernaea cyprinacea, a common copepod parasite which is small crustaceans. These parasites are mostly found in pond raised fish but if left untreated they can cause serious damage to your fish not only in the population of parasites but the secondary bacterial infections that can arise as well after the parasites attach themselves to the body of the goldfish.

What happens is that they pierce the body feeding on tissue and fluids that cause more bacterial infections to set in. The good news is that it’s not very hard to learn how to treat anchors worms on goldfish or any other type of fish in fact. These parasites are very treatable as there are many treatment medications on the market today to choose from. Here I will show you many different ways on how to treat your goldfish for anchor worms.

Removing Anchor Worms with Tweezers

This method of treatment for anchor worms is not one that I will suggest people use. You will, however, be able to see these worms found on your goldfish as they are like small green hair like parasites seen attached to your goldfish. They are quite easily seen and can be removed with tweezers but the only thing wrong with this method is you don’t see all the small worms that could be attached to the goldfish already which are beginning to grow. Anchor worms start off small that end up turning into larger worms as they begin to feed on the body fluid of the goldfish which then you will see later on without a microscope. This method may work but you will never know if they reproduced in your tank or pond and are just waiting to find a new host.

Anchor Worm Treatment Medication

In order to know for sure, you have rid yourself of anchor worms once and for all people should strongly use fish medication to eliminate these external parasites. There are many types of fish medications on the market and here are just a few people can choose: Anchors Away, Dimilin, Proform LA, and Potassium Permanganate. These anchor worm treatment medications work great and will eliminate the parasites affecting your fish.

Anchors Away

To treat your fish using anchors away make sure you always follow the manufacturers recommended dosage. Here is how you treat your fish using this medication:

1. Perform a 25% water change before treatments.

2. Always make sure you remove the activated carbon from your filter.

3. Add one teaspoon for every 40 gallons

4. Treat every 6 days for up to 3 weeks

Anchors away is a great product and effective at eliminating anchor worms and other parasites as well. You will notice after the first week of treatment that they will be falling off your goldfish.

Dimilin

Dimilin is another great product on the market that will treat fish suffering from anchor worms. Here is how you treat your goldfish for anchor worms using Dimilin:

1. Shake bottle very well before use.

2. Remove activated carbon.

3. Add 1 tablespoon for every 60 gallons

4. Wait 14 days to see if anchor worms are completely gone

5. If not, repeat dosage again and do not do a water change.

6. After second treatment is complete, wait another 14 days to make sure parasites are eliminated then perform a water change removing some of the chemicals.

Proform LA

This is one of the best forms of treatment for anchor worms and fish lice on the market. It is really safe for humans to use and is a very low maintenance method of treatment. What’s great about Proform LA is that it can be used in any water temperature where some can only be used as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit. You can do three treatments one week apart and it’s a fairly low-cost medication to use as 1 pint will treat 5000 gallons and 1 quart will treat 10,000 gallons of water. This anchor worm medication will not harm turtles, frogs or snails. Follow recommended dosage

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Potassium Permanganate

This method of treatment should only be used by experienced fish keepers. This is a very strong medication that if done improperly will kill all your fish. Beware this can cure your goldfish or other fish from anchor worms but it can easily kill them too. With any medication that you use people should always use extreme caution wearing eye goggles, long sleeve clothes, and a face mask when possible. Never inhale by these medications and always work in a well-ventilated area. The slightest small crystal of potassium permanganate if it got into your eye can cause severe irritation and possible blindness. So please be careful when working with any form of medication. Again this form of medication should only be used by qualified people as other forms are easier to use and less risky. Here is how you treat with potassium permanganate:

1. Make sure you bypass your filter and shut off your UV sterilizer before treatment.

2. Make sure aeration is at top level.

3. Wear necessary protective equipment before adding treatment

4. Add 1 gram per 100 gallons or 1 teaspoon for every 600 gallons of water.

5. Wait till water turns brown

6. Add 1 pint of hydrogen peroxide per 1000 gallons. This will clear your water in not time and replenish oxygen to your water.

7. Turn on your filter again and UV sterilizer.

This method should be done up to three times to make sure you have eliminated all anchor worms and any other parasites that may be in the water. When you add hydrogen peroxide to the water it removes all effectiveness of the potassium permanganate. So in case of overdosage simply add hydrogen peroxide and your fish will be okay. Wait about 3 days before repeating treatment as the hydrogen peroxide may still be in the water making a new treatment ineffective. After 3 days you should be good to go for another treatment.

Now here I have covered several different ways at treating goldfish for anchor worms. Each medication is different and some are easier to use than others. Just make sure you use the one that you feel more comfortable with. Each of these above methods of anchor worm treatment will work. Just follow the manufacturers recommended dosage and your fish will soon be free of anchor worms.

By Jamie Boyle Jamie Boyle is an online author who writes and maintains his Goldfish Care Information (http://www.GoldfishCareInformation.com) blog to help people answer questions involving goldfish. If you need more information on goldfish and want to know how to treat various goldfish diseases please visit http://www.GoldfishCareInformation.com Article Source: EzineArticles

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Coral REEFCare Tanks Aquarium

Specimen of Acanthastrea lordhowensis
 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When shopping for fish, it might be tempting to pick the rare and fancy fish full of colors, and exotic looking shrimp or crustaceans. An aquarium full of marine life complete with a coral reef and aquatic plants is very appealing. After all, who wouldn't want to have an underwater paradise in their living room?  It may, not, however, be the best choice for a beginning hobbyist.

Coral reef aquariums require much more care than freshwater tanks or saltwater fish only tanks.  Freshwater fish are usually hardier than marine species and therefore a little more forgiving when it comes to water acclimation. It is recommended that only experienced fish keepers with a real commitment to the hobby attempt a coral reef aquarium.   A tank containing coral reef life may require several months of cycling before getting the water just right. The water in a coral reef tank must be regulated for lighting, temperature, and ph.  Start with tap water and then add a sea salt mix to the water.  This type of solution is available at most pet stores.

The salinity of the tank should be between 1.023 and 1.004.  The ideal temperature for a marine aquarium is between 75 and 79 degrees Fahrenheit.  It is also important to test the P.H. of the tank.  Ideal P.H. is somewhere between 8.3 and 8.4.  Test kits can be purchased online or at your local pet store.  The same store will also carry any solutions necessary to adjust the P. H. There is not much wiggle room when it comes to these specific starting points.  In order to avoid a costly mistake, it is important to be patient, watch the tank closely, and make sure that you don't introduce any marine life until the tank is absolutely ready.

Once the aquarium is ready, start with anemones and clownfish. They are the hardiest of reef species, and who wouldn't love to have Nemo swimming around in their living room?  Monitor the marine life closely.  Check the activity levels of the fish, and watch for stress.  Stress is the most common cause of sickness in fish.  Remember that these creatures may have come directly from the ocean, and it may take a while for them to get acclimated to their new home.  Another cause of stress in fish is overcrowding.  Make sure there allow about ten gallons of water per one inch of fish.  Account for the full grown size of the fish, not the size of fish when it is purchased.

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The incubation period for most sickness in fish is about thirty days.  So after about a month, if all is well with the tank and the fish seem to be adjusting well, then it is okay to introduce some new marine life. A mandarin fish or a dwarf angelfish might round out the collection nicely, and they are fairly compatible clownfish.

Whenever adding new fish, choose the species carefully for compatibility.  The fish should be compatible with water specifics, but also make sure that their food source is compatible.  Always remember to be patient when adding new fish.  Give the existing tank members plenty of time to get adjusted before making additions to an aquarium. The best piece of advice is to do research.  Make sure that all new purchases will be suitable tank mates for the existing creatures.  With a little luck, and a lot of skill you will be on your way to having a reef aquarium that will impress any fishkeeper.

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CRESTED GECKO - Correlophus ciliatus

Crested Gecko - Correlophus ciliatus - Picture: Flickr

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Relax Watching the Unique Habit of KISSING GOURAMI in Your Aquarium

Kissing Gourami fish are also called Kisser fish. They are freshwater fish, originated from Thailand and Indonesia. In fact they are the food of people staying in that region.

Kissing Gouramis can be called typical Gourami fish because of their shape. Their body is compressed and elongated. Their fins are also large and elongated. It is very difficult to distinguish between a male and a female.

Helostoma temminkii in an aquarium. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

They can grow up to 12 inches in length. The unique feature of kissing Gouramis is their mouth. Their lips are thicker and they are lined with teeth.

They love to live in shallow waters which are slow moving. In their natural habitat, they live in a place which is heavily planted. They will eat algae and they will also eat most of the other plants in the water.

They can tolerate a wide variety of conditions. The temperature of water may be in the range of 75-85° F while the ph level may be in the range of 6.5 to 8.5.

Their name comes from their peculiar habit. When two males meet, they will face each other and press their mouth. Due to this action, they are called Kissing Gourami. Some fish keepers call them talking Gourami. These kisses are not harmful but sometimes because of continuous bullying they can develop stress and may even die.

However, experience has shown that as they grow older, their habit of challenging or combating with each other reduces and most of the time they start living peacefully with others.

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Like most of the types of Gourami fish, they can come to the surface of the water and can gulp air directly from the atmosphere. This is possible because they have labyrinth organ. Naturally they can survive in the water having low levels of oxygen.

If you want to keep them, you should always plan for a large aquarium having capacity of 80 gallons of water or more. You should also provide some in edible plants as well as some artificial plants because they will try to eat every plant present in the aquarium!

Kissing Gouramis can take wide range of foods including live food well as flaked food and vegetables. You should also feed them with vegetables like spinach or lettuce and peas.

As it is hard to find out the sex of the fish, it is better to buy a group of about 8 to 10 and then allow them to pair up. They will not build any nest but they can spawn a large number of eggs. Normally they will lay up to 12,000 eggs per spawning. These eggs will float on the surface of the water and they will stick to the available surface like plant leaves or plant stems. Some experienced fish-keepers put a leaf of lettuce in the tank which will float and the eggs will be attached to it. After some time, it will also develop fungus which will be used by the fry as their food.

While arranging substrate for the aquarium, you should use large gravel and stones because the fish will try to dig the substrate most of the times as a habit.

In short, if you can provide a big tank with a huge surface area, plenty of plants, reasonably warm water and a compatible combination of species in the aquarium, you can entertain your family members and your guests with the unusual habit of Kissing Gouramis.

By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. Article Source: EzineArticles

ROSY BARB, Puntius conchonius, Barbus conchonius

The Rosy Barb Puntius conchonius (previously Barbus conchonius ) is one of the most beautiful of the freshwater fish. They have a silvery or coppery pink color with a green cast along the back, and the males will have more pink on their underbellies. They are hardy, undemanding, and fun to watch because they are constantly on the move. These qualities make them one of the most desirable starter fish.

An image of Puntius conchonius (Rosy Barb, Prachtbarbe, Praktbarb) (Photo: Wikipedia)

The color of these fish is always attractive but it most impressive when they are spawning. The males silvery color intensifies to a deep rosy red or a purplish red, and the fins get pink and black. Though usually referred to as a Rosy Barb, another common name they are known by is the Red Barb. They have also been developed in several ornamental varieties. Some of these include the Neon Rosy Barb, Long Fin Rosy Barb, Red Glass Rosy Barb, and Gold Neon Rosy Barb.

These barbs are a delightful choice for a beginning fish keeper but will make a dynamic display in any aquarists tank. They are peaceful and will do well in a community aquarium, with only an occasional nip on a tankmates fins. They do prefer cooler water than much other tropical fish, needing temperatures between 64-72° F (18-22° C). Be sure to select tankmates that will also thrive in a cooler tank.

Depending on the region they are from these fish vary some in appearance and size. They are one of the larger barb species so do need at least a 20-gallon tank. In the wild, they can reach lengths of up to 6 inches (15 cm). In the aquarium, however, it is more common for them to only reach about 4 inches (10 cm). Not only are they very active, they are great jumpers, so the aquarium needs to be covered.

When kept in a school, the males display an interesting behavior. They will continually swim around each other with their fins spread out, showing off their best colors. These fish are very prolific breeders but they will need a breeding tank with shallow water. They will happily spawn in water that is just a couple of inches deep.

The Rosy Barb has a torpedo shaped body and its tail is forked. It has only one dorsal fin. Lacking an adipose fin, a second dorsal fin to the rear of the first is a characteristic of all the Cyprinid fishes. This is a good sized fish reaching a length of up to 6 inches (15 cm) in the wild, though they generally only reach about 4 inches (10 cm) in the aquarium. They are mature at 2.5 inches (6 cm) and have an average lifespan of about 5 years.

The general coloration is silvery or coppery pink body with somewhat of a greenish cast along the back. Males are a more reddish color, especially on the underbelly and sides. There is a black spot just in front of caudal peduncle, and there may be some black along the top margins of the anal and dorsal fins. These fish will vary some in appearance and size, depending on the region they are from.

Size of fish – inches: 5.9 inches (15.01 cm) – In the wild, these fish can reach up to 6 inches (15 cm), but in captivity, they generally only get about 4 inches (10 cm).

Excerpt from an original article on Animal-World.com Copyright © [Animal-World] 1998-2012. All rights reserved.

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