Aquarium and Fish Care

2017-10-28

Difference Between AFRICAN DWARF FROGS and AFRICAN CLAWED FROGS

There has been a stark rise in the popular of aquatic frogs among hobbyist in the past few years. Aquatic frogs such as African clawed and dwarf frogs are known for their unique behaviors which are both interesting and entertaining. Anyone who has ever watched a tank of frogs can attest to this. Some hobbyist runs into the problem of housing clawed frogs with dwarf frogs due to a lack of knowledge of the two species. After you read this entire article, you'll be able to fully understand the differences between the two types of frogs.

African Dwarf and Clawed Frog Similarities

Before we get started with the differences between the two types of frogs, we'll first get an understanding of the similarities of them. Clawed frogs and dwarf frogs are both fully aquatic. They're capable of living underwater without the need to leave the water. These critters also look very similar which often causes people to mistake one type for the other which can lead to problems in an aquarium. Both share similar behaviors such as hanging at around the bottom of the tank while occasionally touching the water's surface.

African clawed frogs (Xenopus laevis) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

African Dwarf and Clawed Frog Differences

There are quite a few differences between the two. Knowing these differences can be a life or death matter when stocking your aquarium. Miniature frogs grow much smaller than the clawed version with the largest growing a little over two inches. Clawed species have been known to grow as large as eight inches. Only clawed versions are available in an albino form. While both types of frog are equipped with webbed feet, only the dwarf has webbed hands. The eyes on an African Dwarf frog are located on the side of its head whereas eyes of a clawed species can be found on top of the frog's head.

While habitat requirements are somewhat similar for both frogs, there are a few differences. For instance, clawed frogs require a bigger tank since they grow so much larger. The diets of these critters are also similar in the fact that they're both carnivores. However, clawed frogs are many dangerous predators in a home aquarium. They're capable of eating much larger creatures such as small crayfish and goldfish. Never house African dwarf frogs with African clawed frogs! The much larger clawed frog will kill and eat the smaller dwarf frog. The clawed frog is also known to be a tad more aggressive than the miniature which is normally peaceful.

Afterthought

Both types of aquatic critters are extremely entertaining and can be very interesting pets. Clawed frogs are illegal in some states so some people will have to settle for the miniature type which isn't a bad thing. After reading this article, I hope you'll now be able to understand the similarities and differences of both species.

Gilbert Downey

EzineArticles

2017-10-27

LIONFISHES - Scorpaenidae Family

Lionfish * Firefish - Photo by Bob Owen

Members of this family are known commonly as Firefish, Scorpionfish, Rockfish, Stonefish, or Lionfish (amongst others). They belong to the order Scorpaeniformes, which includes 35 families, 300 genera, and more than 1,000 species. They are important both in the marine aquarium trade and as food (those of us fish-eaters living on the west coast are familiar with "Pacific Snapper" which is not a snapper at all-it's from the family Scorpaenidae). Fishes from the family Scorpaenidae are widely distributed throughout the oceans of the world (temperate and tropical), but the so-called lionfishes which are of the most interest to the marine hobbyist are indigenous to the tropical Indo-Pacific (although they have now established themselves along the eastern seaboard of the United States).

The species most often seen in the home aquarium are from the subfamily Pteroinae and the genera Brachypterois, Pterois and Dendrochirus. Of these three genera, the genus Pterois are the true lionfishes while the species in the other genera are generally referred to in the hobby as the dwarf lionfishes. Specimens from the genus Brachypterois are rarely seen in the hobby. All species of the subfamily Pteroinae are hearty, dramatic-looking and very capable of causing the lackadaisical aquarist a whole world of hurt through their powerful sting. Nonetheless, the potential of being stung is far outweighed in most hobbyists' minds by the positive attributes of the extraordinary lionfish.

The lionfishes from the genus Pterois get their name from the Greek word "pteron" which translates to "wing." Indeed, a large Pterois in open water-pectoral fins outstretched-is very much like a winged creature. Add to this display the rearing dorsal fin, and you can clearly see why this fish with a mane is commonly called a lionfish. The most recognizable species in the industry is the Red Lionfish (P. volitans). This impressive fish (not to be confused with P. lunulata or the Luna Lion, which is often sold as a red volitans) has earned its way onto the stamps of at least eight countries and into thousands of marine aquaria. Growing up to a foot and a half in length, these are very impressive animals.

The Red Lionfish, it should be noted, is not always red, and as such, members of the same species should not be confused based on dramatic color differences alone. Red Lionfish living in estuaries can be almost entirely black while those that inhabit outer reefs down to 55 meters may be much brighter in color. Generally nocturnal, the Red Lionfish in the wild spends its days upside down in a cave or head down in a rock crevice. When hunting, it uses its large pectoral fins to corral its prey (small fish and invertebrates such as shrimp and crabs) before stinging and consuming it. In captivity, the Red Lionfish is, in many ways, an aquarist's dream. Provided with the right captive habitat and diet, this fish will be long-lived and the center of attention for anyone viewing your aquarium.

The other two genera of lionfish are generally thought of as the dwarf lionfish. They seldom exceed six inches in length. As already mentioned, specimens from the genus Brachypterois are rarely seen in the hobby, but dwarf lionfish from the genus Dendrochirus are quite common. In many ways, dwarf lionfish possess all the appeal of their larger kin, just in a smaller size. Although the dwarfs tend to be somewhat more sedentary and stick closer to the bottom of the tank, they can be kept in tanks half the size of those required for a Red Lionfish. Of the dwarfs one might consider, the Zebra Turkeyfish (Dendrochirus zebra) is always a favorite and relatively common. Many hobbyists swear that the less common Fuzzy Dwarf (Dendrochirus brachypterus) is the most "personable" of all lionfish.

Despite their differences in size, the true lionfish and the dwarf lionfish have similar captive habitat requirements (except, of course, for minimum tank size). Lionfish have a reputation as being remarkably hearty fish (second only to damsels some say), and while this is true, some care should be taken to provide lionfish with an environment that meets their species-specific needs. Because lionfish are nocturnal, they will not appreciate tanks that are brightly lit with metal halides unless there are places in the tank that remain heavily shaded. From the lionfish's perspective, even a relatively dark refuge in a tank illuminated by metal halides is inferior to a tank lit by low illumination fluorescents. More than one captive lionfish has been permanently damaged by being blinded by lights that are too bright.

Lionfish are not known to be particularly territorial and will share their cave or another place of refuge with members of their own species or other lionfish species. Having said this, keep in mind that recommended stocking densities for true lionfish are about 40 gallons per lionfish (and about half that for the dwarfs). In terms of water chemistry, while lionfish will appreciate stability in the system, they are remarkably resilient and can survive dismal water conditions (although this obviously should not be the goal). Lionfish do make a mess, and as a result, excellent mechanical/biological filtration and protein skimming are essential. Without appropriate filtration, a dive in alkaline reserve is likely to be accompanied by plunging pH necessitating a massive emergency water change. All this, of course, can be avoided by appropriate filtration, excellent protein skimming, and regular water changes.

Everyone knows when you go to the zoo not to feed the lions. If everyone kept the same in mind with their lionfish, far fewer would die in captivity each year. The reason you don't feed the lions at the zoo is that they are already being fed a healthy, appropriate diet by their keepers, and while there are those who may love to show off their lionfish snacking on live goldfish, this is really not in the best interest of the animal. It is true that some lionfish will not readily accept a captive diet (in which case it may be necessary to offer the specimen a live shrimp, small fish or crab at first), but the goal should always be to try to get the fish eating a captive diet. One technique that works well is the feed your new lionfish live feeder shrimp mixed with frozen mysis shrimp. Over time (days to weeks depending on the individual fish), increase the frozen mysis shrimp and decrease the live feeder shrimp until you have cut out the live food entirely. Eventually, lionfish should accept a captive diet including fresh or frozen foods such as krill, shrimp, silversides, and various prepared foods. Once the lionfish is settled in, offer food on a feeding stick, but don't force the issue. Feeding one to three times a week should be sufficient. Keep in mind that lionfish will eat smaller fishes, ornamental shrimps and crabs in your system, and remember that their mouths can open to leviathan proportions.

It is not uncommon to see some fin rot due to handling during the shipping process, and this is easily taken care of with furan compounds. Copper treatments are highly effective with lionfish suffering from protozoal infections like Cryptocaryon. "Coughing" or "shaking" disease is something you will experience with lionfish, but it's actually not a disease at all. This is a common behavior and aids in the shedding of skin (necessary to purge algae and sessile invertebrates that have attached themselves to the fish). In short, it is a perfectly normal part of life for many of these fishes.

At the beginning of the article, it was cautioned that lionfishes are capable of a powerful sting. This is true and something of which any aquarist should be aware before purchasing one. Lionfish are not poisonous, as if often stated-remember, many species in the family Scorpaenidae are important food sources. Instead, they are venomous meaning that they deliver their venom or toxin through injection (not ingestion). Lionfish have venom sacs connected to their spines, and while there have been reports of some individuals aggressively "charging" the hobbyist's hand when in the tank, most stings are the result of careless contact while cleaning the tank or handling the fish. If you are stung (either by an alive or dead specimen), it will most likely be painful and, although rarely fatal, it is possible to have a very severe reaction necessitating the attention of a physician. In most cases, however, expect a reaction like a bee sting. If you experience more serious signs and symptoms including, but not limited to, shortness of breath, nausea, and fever seek medical attention immediately.

In conclusion, while there is some risk in choosing to keep lionfish from the family Scorpaenidae, most hobbyists agree that the good far outweighs the bad. These incredible "winged fish" are almost inconceivable in their delicate beauty. The fact that a fish so exotic-looking and interesting is also relatively easy to acquire, hearty and long-lived is the proverbial icing on the cake.

Ret Talbot

http://www.bluezooaquatics.com

EzineArticles

2017-10-26

OSCAR CICHLID - Things To Know About Oscars!

Oscar Cichlids - Photo by Tomi Tapio

The Oscar Cichlid, or otherwise known as "Oscar fish", has been one of the most favorite species of cichlids considered for petting because they are fun to keep and are friendly to their owners. They could easily recognize their owners and be aware of what is happening around them.

They are natives to the different rivers of South America, specifically from the waterways of Peru, Brazil and French Guiana. But before going out to purchase one for a pet, there are important things to know about Oscar Cichlids that you need to consider.

Enthusiasts planning to raise Oscar Cichlids should prepare a large tank, spacious enough to accommodate the immediate growth of this kind of fish. Oscars tend to grow an inch after its eight to the tenth month. Expect them to reach about 10-12 inches in their first year. Gravel is the most recommended substrate for the tanks since they are abundant in Oscar's natural environment.

However, be sure to make use the rounded kind since these types of fish are inclined to dig, and sharp gravel might harm them. Furthermore, there are observations that these fish do not prefer bright lights. Thus, this should also be considered in preparing their tanks.

Hobbyists who are obsessed with decorated tanks should think twice to raise Oscars since they tend to be disastrous pets, often rearranging their aquarium, moving rocks and decors around. These are normal Oscar behaviors. Let them do this for it increases their comfort zone on their surroundings.

Feeding can be an exciting experience since Oscars interact whenever they are fed. They show excitement, swimming eagerly around the tank when they know they will be fed. They eat insects and small crustaceans such as crickets, earthworms, mealworms, and shrimps.

Owners should also understand that Oscars are temperamental. This is the reason why they are considered to have personalities. They show what they are feeling. At one point they can be happy and cheerful, like during feeding, but then they will be moody, retire in one corner or stop eating for a while. Don't be bothered if this happens. This is only a phase and the Oscars will eventually get back to its original jolly selves in time.

Enthusiasts need to be aware that in most cases, Oscars are the non-aggressive type of fish, as compared to another type of cichlids. They show uncommon behavior while inside the tanks but these are oftentimes ritualistic. They can be seen spreading their gills and opening their mouth wide while facing another fish, performing a tug of war. This is actually testing each other's strength or part of a mating ritual. Oscars may also be observed to charge the wall of their aquarium.

They might just think that their reflections are another fish trying to get in their territories. Oscars, like most cichlids, are territorial. They need to be accustomed to their tank mates for a while before they given in. That is the reason why in some cases, it is suggested that Oscars should be bred early with another type of fish for the former to be accustomed to it while growing.

Breeders should also take note that in most cases, it is hard to distinguish a male from a female Oscars. The only indication of a female Oscar is when it becomes pregnant and begins to be bulkier. They lay their eggs on a surface of a rock and will rearrange their space to provide a suitable spawning area in their tanks. The eggs hatch after three days.

Other fish in the tank should be taken out once spawning of the female is observed since they are considered threats by the Oscar mothers. It is advised that owners let their Oscars discover their roles as parents by not removing the eggs and allowing them to figure out what to do. They are generally nourishing and protective parents to their fry, eventually providing good nourishment for the infants.

Since Oscar Cichlids, or Oscar Fish, are expected to live up to 15 years, taking care of them is a commitment an owner should accept. These Oscars would require nourishment, attention, and care. Nevertheless, the Oscars are often times referred to as "river or water dogs" because they somehow behave like dogs, shaking their heads or tails whenever they see their owners.

By Lacey Bryant - Article Source: EzineArticles

2017-10-25

BEARDED DRAGON - Pogona vitticeps

Bearded Dragon - Pogona vitticeps

2017-10-24

BLUEFIN NOTHOBRANCH - Nothobranchius rachovii

Bluefin Nothobranch - Nothobranchius rachovii

2017-10-23

Common Types Of BEARDED DRAGONS

Bearded Dragon - Photo by jdnx

Bearded dragons are native to Australia, and like the vastness that Australia has to offer, there is also a large number of different species and variations of bearded dragons over the large continent.

All species of bearded dragons are popular because of their quiet nature, ease of handling, and their small size to name just a few. Unlike many reptiles, bearded dragons require a much smaller space to live comfortably in, and are easily handled by adults, and children. There are eight different species of bearded dragons noted in Australia, and the following 6 are the most commonly known as pets.

The Western Bearded Dragon

The western bearded dragon is mainly found on the southwest coast and inland areas of Western Australia. It lives mainly in woodland areas, as well as in coastal dunes, and in the desert as well.

The Inland Bearded Dragon

The inland bearded dragon is the largest of all the species and grows to around 20cm in size. This species is found in every state, and territory of Australia except for Western Australia. The inland bearded dragon is the most popular breed of reptilian pet.

The Mitchells Bearded Dragon

The Mitchells bearded dragon is found in the interior of the Northern Territory, and in the north of Western Australia in the Great Sandy Dessert. The Mitchells species is the smallest of the bearded dragon species and grows to around 14cm. One of the easiest ways to tell a Mitchells bearded dragon apart from the other species is his large cone-like head spikes, which are unlike any of the other bearded dragons.

The Dwarf Bearded Dragon

The dwarf-bearded dragons, considered to be closely related to the Mitchell species, are mainly found in the Great Sandy Desert. The dwarf dragon is easily Identifiable because of his short legs, and short tail.

Lawsons Bearded Dragons

The Lawsons bearded dragons are the second most popular pet species. This species lives in most of Queensland, and some of the Northern Territory, but how much area the species actually occupies is still unknown.

The Nullabor Bearded Dragon

The Nullabor bearded dragon is a very rare species found only in a small area between the South Western, and South Australia. The Nullabor bearded dragon is easily recognizable by its markings, with large white markings along its back, and spines on its sides. The Nullabor bearded dragon is the least likely of all of the bearded dragons to be kept as pets, as they are hard to find in the wild, and have been known to be very difficult to breed in captivity.

It is possible that there are still undiscovered species of bearded dragons in Australia, as well as subspecies, as much of Australia's reptilian wildlife is still being discovered today.

Sarah Munn

EzineArticles

2017-10-22

FANWORT - Bacomba aquatica

FANWORT - Bacomba aquatica - Photo: Wikimedia

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