Reducing AFRICAN CICHLID Aggression

African cichlid aquarium (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

African cichlids are often referred to as the most aggressive cichlid, and most inexperienced aquarists will tell you that you should not keep this species because they are too "mean." African Cichlids have a tendency to be aggressive by nature, but don't let this discourage you from keeping them as a pet. In this article, I am going to explain some of the most common ways to reduce African Cichlid aggression.

Feeding

Food is the number one cause of Cichlid aggression. This is because they live in vast numbers in the wild and are required to defend themselves for food. They also display the same behavior in an aquarium. It is best to feed in small amounts several times a day. By feeding throughout the day, you are helping to eliminate their food-related aggression.

Tank Size

Since Cichlids tend to be very territorial by nature, it is important to have a large enough tank for them to live in. It is suggested that you use at least a 55-gallon aquarium for keeping this species. Having a larger tank will allow you to build a lot of nooks and crannies for your them to hide in and claim as their territory.

Similar Sizes

When choosing your African Cichlids, it is best to pick those that are similar in size. If you have one fish that is much larger than the others, it is most likely going to take over your tank and be the most aggressive Cichlid. This rule of thumb is especially important if you are keeping several males of the same species.

Before choosing your tank mates, I suggest that you do a bit of research to determine how big they will get when they are adults. This will also help to ensure that you have the proper size tank for the species you plan on keeping.

Variety

Having a large variety of colors with different body markings will also help reduce their aggression. If they look like one another, chances are they will not get along.

Temperature

It is recommended that you keep the temperature of your Cichlid tank on the low side. High temperatures will increase the fish's metabolism and can trigger more aggressive behavior. Of course, you don't want freezing cold water, but 74-76 degrees is acceptable for most African Cichlid species.

Male/Female

The general rule for most African Cichlid species is to keep one male per every three females. This is important because males, in almost all cases, tend to be the most aggressive cichlids in the tank. This is because the males will be aggressive towards females that do not want to mate. Having more females in the tank will take the male's focus off of just one female and instead his anger will be evenly distributed.

Mixing species

The three main lakes that African Cichlids originate from are Malawi, Tanganyikan, and Victorian. Although it has been done, I do not recommend combing species from different lakes. However, if you insist on mixing Cichlids from different lakes, Malawi and Tanganyikan are going to be your best bet. If you plan to mix the two, I suggest that you do some serious research to determine which species will be compatible with one another. If you are a beginner at keeping cichlids, it is best to stock your tank with fish from the same lake.

African Cichlids are a wonderful species to keep, but it is important to remember that they can be aggressive if you aren't careful. Taking precaution and following these guidelines will help keep your Cichlid aggression at a minimum. These really are a beautiful species of fish and I hope that you can enjoy them as much as I do.

By Timothy Jacob Carter - Article Source: EzineArticles

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CATFISH in a 10 Gallon Aquarium

Photo  by jorge.correa 

Catfish
When you are dealing with a smaller tank, the choice of a bottom fish depends, to a great extent, on the tank's present and planned inhabitants.  Not necessarily in fish alone, but in live plants as well. 

When there are no plants in the planned aquascape, there is little chance you may be bringing in pests such as snails, so that problem is not a factor for consideration. For my most recent aquarium set-up, the Fluval Edge, which holds only 6 U.S. gallons when filled right to the top, I added a juvenile Botia lohachata as the scavenger.

The tank is well planted and bringing snails into the ecosystem with the live plants, even well rinsed posed a distinct possibility.  As a matter of fact, I found an empty snail shell floating under the top glass very soon after I added the fish!

Although there is a wide selection of bottom fish available for the small community aquarium, I tend to use either Botia striatus or Botia lohachata nowadays. They do just fine in my high pH water and are not that common looking. The Botia striatus I have kept for the longest, and they have always been extremely shy. It may be the tank they are in, which is the largest of my small community aquariums. Or, the fact that they found a great hiding place right from the start and rarely exit it to scavenge for their meals.  They have always preferred to leave it only when they are hungry.

I have added the Botia lohachata in two different tanks. One is in the Fluval Edge mentioned above where there is a single individual.  The other a classic ten gallon planted system with two individuals as well as a pair of South Amercian Appistogramma aggasiz Dwarf Cichlids. This is a heavily planted aquarium. In each instance, the Botia lohachata are much more active than the B. striatus. In the ten gallon tank, the two there even feed on the top!

Whenever the pH is high, I also tend to include a Plecostomus.  But be careful of the water conditions when adding these fish, they do not do well in acid water. When kept in high pH, one will help control algae formation in almost any tank, no matter what its inhabitants may be. Right now one is doing quite well in my Tropiquarium 88 where it was placed after the biological filter matured. The tank has quite a number of African Cichlids and it is doing quite well in spite of these aggressive tank mates.  Plecostomus can grow over time, but still seem quite content to clean their areas well.  

Aggressivity is not a common trait with these fish, they are not particularly appetizing, so they are suitable for both passive and moderately aggressive communities.

If the tank is new, and everything was recently purchased, chances are you don't actually need to put in a catfish just yet. I prefer to let the tank begin to add some organic wastes as the tank matures for the first six to eight weeks. Only after the Nitrogen Cycle has been started and matured would I normally consider adding bottom fish of any kind. The tank doesn't need the added fish load, and the filter is so clean it should be able to handle the wastes while everything settles and gets into balance.  Since I do not feed bottom fish separately, I feel it is best to let the system get a little bit of waste in the bottom for a scavenger to find before they are considered as new arrivals.

For most common community aquariums, I use one of the various Corydoras sp. armored catfish as the bottom feeder of choice. There is a huge variety of choices in these dwarf catfish that will make one of them the perfect complement to a smaller aquarium community. You can pick between solids, stripes, blotches, albino and a lot of other possibilities.

These are scaleless catfish. If you should have a problem with Ich or other diseases and need to treat, read the directions on any medication very carefully. Remember that they are quite vulnerable to many of the medications typically used to kill many parasites. Generally, half doses are the maximum with these fish in a tank - but always follow the written directions to be safe.

One of the main problems new aquarists face is the presence of algae. I have kept fish for forty years or so, and I have grown quite used to seeing it in the tank and accept it as natural. Many people don't. They try to use a bottom fish to eliminate it. As mentioned, the various Plecostomus types are the very best of these. They are so ugly; they are interesting. Personally, I enjoy them immensely. The problem is that many aquascapes are maintained in an acid range, and this is deadly to alkaline loving Plecostomus. When placed in acid water they often turn white and die, so be careful and only use them when the pH is 7.2 or above.

One of the natural ways to remove algae is to ask a bottom fish, like the Plecostomus to eat it as part of his diet. This by no means a thorough way to eliminate the growths, but it can help keep the growths in check. Chinese Algae Eaters (Gyrinocheilus aymonieri), the Siamese Flying Fox (Crossochelius siamensis) and the more common Flying Fox (Epalseorhynchos kallopterus) are also used to help try to control the algae. I prefer either of the flying foxes which seem to prefer to eat algae most of the time.

The Siamese Flying fox is known to be a better algae eater - especially when this fish is kept in small schools. The Chinese Algae Eater will eat some algae when it is quite young but often turns aggressive towards other swimming inhabitants.  If possible they often try to suck the protective slime coating off other fish as a free meal.  As they age they prefer to be lazy rather than work on algae as a meal.

Steve Pond - Article Source: EzineArticles

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SILVER DOLLAR Aquarium and Fish Care

A photograph of the Silver Dollar (Metynnis argenteus). (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Silver Dollar is one of the Metynnis Lippincottianus fish species. Metynnis Lippincottianus or Silver Dollar fish comes from Amazon Basin and grows up to five inches in size. The Silver Dollar is one of the popularly sold fish on the market. The fish has a strong pressed oval-shaped body. Silver Dollar fish are passive creatures, which like to live peacefully with other fish. 

In addition, the fish prefer to live in a large tank and reside with their own species. This fish has a natural side, which promotes him to destroy plants, which include Vallisneria plants. In a couple of days, you will be purchasing new plants. Therefore, it is important that you feed this fish when he is hungry. The little fellers like lettuce, sprouts, spinach, as well as meaty dishes. 

Metynnis Lippincottianus tend to enjoy moderate soft water conditions, as well as faintly acidy waters. Metynnis Lippincottianus fish will breed, as well as produce hundreds of eggs at a given time. The eggs usually hatch in a few days. Prepare for an army.

Shreitmueller or Metynnis hypsauchen originates from Amazon Basin areas. The fish grow 6 inches in size a have strong pressed oval-shaped bodies. The fish has behaviors similar to the Metynnis Lippincottianus; as well, their feeding patterns, habits, etc are similar. In addition, Metynnis hypsauchen has similar water condition demands as that of the Metynnis Lippincottianus fish.

The only significant differences between the Metynnis Lippincottianus fish and the Hypsauchen is that these fish lay thousands of eggs in one hatching. This requires that you prepare for a larger army, which the hatchlings must have a water temperature of 82 degrees.

Gymnocorymbus Ternetzi 

This fish group is commonly known as the Black Tetra. The fish is also known as the Petticoat and Blackamoor Fish. Gymnocorymbus Ternetzi comes from Bolivia, Argentina, and Brazil and grows up to 2 inches in size.

The fan-like fins, anal, and dorsal is often black. The jet-black species have 2-vertical black coated bars that line the silver sides or flanks. This is a good tank fish; however, the fish have instincts to nibble at other fish fins. The fish enjoy dry foods, as well as a variety of foodstuff. Gymnocorymbus Ternetzi does not place a high demand on the water conditions. The water temperature should remain at 68 degrees or 70 degrees Fahrenheit. You can breed these fish in moderately hard waters or neutral waters. The fish lay hundreds of eggs, which hatch in one day. Hatchlings require infusoria foodstuff at the start.

Pristella Maxillaris otherwise known as X-ray fish, Pristella, or Goldfinch come from the Northern South American areas. The fish only grow around 1 and a half inches in size. Pristella has transparent bodies. This fish is ideal for commune tanks since the fish is passive in nature.

Pristella Maxillaris will feast on all foods and require water conditions or temperature set between 72 degrees and 78 degrees Fahrenheit. This fish lays up to 500 eggs and is one of the easier to breed specimen. The hatchlings are usually delivered in one day.

In all, you will find a wide array of fish at pet stores. Each specimen has its own needs, yet many are similar in nature. Additional fish include the Hemigrammus Erythrozonus species, Hyphessobrycon Flammeus breeds, and the Paracheirodon innesi. Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis is space available. If you are just starting out avoid the Piranhas and the Characin species. The carnivores will eat other fish, as well as fleshy dishes. Piranhas are better left for fish experts to maintain.

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ATLANTA AQUARIUM - GEORGIA AQUARIUM

Photo  by Storeyland 

Want to make sure your next family vacation is a real splash? Take your family for a cool and educational adventure at the Atlanta Aquarium.

Some people call aquariums "the new zoos" and without a doubt, they are some of the hottest lures. The recently opened Atlanta Aquarium was created to draw visitors to the city. Developed in part by the city of Atlanta, this titanic aquarium draws in travelers, who are then enticed to visit other destinations within the downtown entertainment zone.

The original idea for opening the Atlanta aquarium, also known as Georgia Aquarium, was developed by Bernie Marcus. In November 2001, Mr. Marcus announced his plans to donate the funds required to build an aquarium in downtown Atlanta.  From that idea, the Atlanta Aquarium was born.

The Atlanta Aquarium is a half-million square foot facility housing, more than 100,000 animals in 8 million gallons of fresh and salt water. From project groundbreaking to the grand opening, the entire construction process took only 27 months to complete. The Atlanta Aquarium is located on 9 acres of land adjacent to the Centennial Olympic Park in the downtown area.

When you visit the Atlanta Aquarium, you'll notice the unique appearance of the building's exterior. The facilities were designed to look like a giant ship breaking through a wave. As visitors move forward to the large atrium inside the building, they are led into the facility by "a wall of fish" guiding them inside. Once inside, guests are given the option to choose from five main galleries. Each gallery is easily distinguishable with a sign and icon at the entrance.

Take time to visit each of these fascinating galleries housed within the Atlanta Aquarium:

Cold Water Quest -- shows items covered in ice
Georgia Explorer -- identified by a light house
River Scout   -- displays a cascading waterfall
Ocean Voyager  -- offers a peephole into the huge habitat
Tropical Diver  -- with two video screens representing fish on a reef.

After visiting each exhibit, guests return to the main atrium to visit the next gallery.

Visitors to the Atlanta Aquarium will enjoy about 60 habitats through 12,000 square feet of viewing windows. The windows are made of a durable acrylic with a total weight of 328 tons. The largest of the habitats is a massive 263 feet long by 126 feet wide, with a depth of 33 feet. This giant carries 6.2 million gallons of water. This display, specially designed as a habitat for whale sharks, is also home to tens of thousands of other animals that commonly thrive amid coral reefs and open ocean waters.

As you continue to explore the Atlanta Aquarium, you'll find a 100-foot long tunnel and one of the world's largest aquarium windows, giving a glimpse into the whale shark habitat. The second of the largest habitats in the Atlanta Aquarium, it holds 800,000 gallons of water and was specifically developed to simulate the natural habitat of beluga whales.

Anyone with an interest in nature and oceanic life will marvel at the Atlanta Aquarium. Spend the day viewing 100 thousand creatures representing 500 species from around the globe living in over 8 million gallons of fresh and salt water. The Atlanta Aquarium is a true ocean jewel, right in the middle of Georgia.

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Tips on DOMINO DAMSELFISH Care

Attribution: Randall JE   This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution License.
Photo: Aquariumwiki

Domino damselfish or Dascyllus trimaculatus are classified to family Pomacentridae. This species is a native of the Indo-Pacific with an established presence stemming from the shorelines of southern Japan to Australia.

These fish received their names from their distinctive color pallets. They have black bodies just like a domino. There are three large white spots their bodies, one on each side and one on their forehead. They are also called threespot dascyllus and domino damsels. They commonly grow to as long as 5 inches in length and have a life expectancy of up to 10 years in captivity. These fish can swim in depths up to 200 feet.

This is one tough and highly adaptable little fish. They can tolerate conditions that would kill a less hardy species. This capability of surviving adverse environmental conditions has led to them being a popular biological stabilizer for aquarists who are cycling a new tank. If the damselfish lives it is OK to risk introducing more expensive and temperamental species to the new aquarium.

This is not a timid creature by any means. They have a propensity to be downright tenacious for a fish of their stature. The level of aggressiveness increases as they mature. Housing them with smaller and more docile species may prove problematic. They will also exhibit territorial behavior toward members of their own species, especially in smaller aquariums. Suitable tank-mates include dwarf angelfish, puffers, and cardinalfish.

A common trait among damselfish is their symbiotic relationship with sea anemones. They are commonly referred to as anemonefish because of this inherent mutualism. Sea anemones exude neurotoxins which can be deadly to most other fish. Damselfish have a natural immunity to these toxins which inevitably leads to mutually beneficial coop between the two species. Dominoes feed on the semi-digested matter left floating around the anomie because of its dietary habits and remove harmful parasites from the creature. There is the additional benefit of being able to seek shelter within the tentacles of a species even the most aggressive of predators will instinctively steer clear of. In return for shelter and provisions, Dominoes excrete fecal matter which is a source of nutrition for the anomie. Dominoes also associate with Diadema sea urchins and branching coral.

This is an omnivorous species. Part of their diet in the wild consists of ingesting various species of algae. It is recommended that you provide them with an abundance of live rock to graze on. The live rock will provide them with both the plant matter necessary for their nutritional requirements and make for an acceptable hiding place in the absence of their symbiotic partners.

In addition to plant matter, they can be fed brine shrimp, chopped fresh shrimp. mollusks, or squid. They will also eat marine flakes for omnivores.

Like their relatives the clownfish, dominoes are sequential hermaphrodites. They are all born as males. If you place two males in an aquarium together the larger more dominant fish will undergo a gender change. This species has been known to breed in captivity.

By Stephen J Broy Technological advancements in the aquarium industry continually redefine the concept of "home aquarium ownership." Just twenty years ago not even the biggest public aquarium was capable of keeping jellyfish alive in captivity. Now they make desktop Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums. And why would you want a jellyfish tank? Perhaps you should check out what the translucent bodies of Pet Moon Jellyfish look like under LED lighting. Pet Jellyfish give a whole new meaning to the term exotic pets. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Artificial Freshwater AQUARIUM PLANTS

There is always a certain amount of joy and fun in putting decorations in your freshwater aquarium. In fact, adding artificial plants to your aquarium can cost a little less than the money you spend on maintaining your aquarium. As we all know, artificial plants are reasonably priced and they require very little care and maintenance once they are placed in the aquarium. The idea of placing them in your freshwater aquarium was introduced rather late. There was a time when artificial plants were looked upon as eyesores by many 'newbies' in the aquarium community.

Today, however, their appearance is very similar to real plants and you have to actually touch them to tell that they are made of plastic materials. In fact, the majority, if not all artificial plants used in freshwater aquariums, are made from silk allowing them to freely move in the water.

One of the greatest benefits of using artificial plants in aquariums is the fact that they shine in all their glory the moment you place them in your aquarium. This has a glorious effect that live plants can never provide since they need time to grow and blossom. As a rule, however, it is necessary that before you add artificial plants to your aquarium you must ensure that they are thoroughly cleaned and that they are free from any contaminants that can harm the fish. A little trick to make your the plants appear more realistic: soak them in warm water for thirty minutes. This is good for softening the fabric.

What's more, artificial plants do not require additional care and maintenance. They can stay as they are whether or not the aquarium is lighted. There are no problems when adding special nutrients and you can basically place them on any aquarium substrate. In fact, you can execute the most daring design when it comes to arranging them in the aquarium. By choosing your favorite artificial plants, you can easily place them anywhere you wish. If the time comes when you decide to remove them, you can easily do so without the worry of hurting the fish or damaging the tank.

In fact, you cannot kill your artificial freshwater aquarium plants, and so you do not have to worry about pruning or feeding them to them to make them grow. They will always be what they are-artificial plants. But if well chosen, they are not ordinary plants and though they are lifeless, they bring about the appearance of life to both the fish and spectators. Moneywise, they are way cheaper than live plants because you only need to purchase them once, and you can continue to enjoy their beauty for as long as you desire. They only cease giving life to your freshwater aquarium once you decide to throw them away.

Finally, artificial plants can significantly add life and beauty to your freshwater aquarium without causing any danger to the fish. Aside from the fact that they are very easy to care for, you do not need to monitor them very closely as they will never invite algae to grow on them. Maintenance is also inexpensive and cost-effective.

By Garry-Ian Macdonald - Article Source: Ezine Articles

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Introduction to PARROT CICHLIDS

Bloody Parrot, also called the Red Parrot
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Typically speaking there are two kinds of cichlids that belong to the parrot cichlid family, the Hoplarchus Psittacus (Green Parrot) and the Blood Parrot. The Green Parrot Cichlid is known to be the "original" parrot. It is a beautiful green cichlid that originates from the Amazon in South America. Not surprisingly its name came from its big parrot-like mouth. It is known to be less common within the aquarium industry but over the past few years, it is slowly becoming more popular.

The Blood Parrot is noticeably more common in aquarium shops. Interestingly, the Blood Parrot is a fish that has been developed over a few years of selective breeding and when it first came on the scene it was a bright Orange. Nowadays this fish is known to be found in many different colors such as Red, Purple, Blue, Yellow, and Green just to name a few. Given the mass range of selective breeding and colors that have now been produced, there has been a blanket name placed over these multi-colored fish, this is known as the Jellybean Cichlid.

Because the Blood Parrot Cichlid is a man-made hybrid so to speak, knowing the exact origins of this fish become difficult however there is speculation that it might be a cross between the Severum and a Midas Cichlid or Red Devil.

An interesting fact is that it does not have a scientific name due to its hybrid origins, it should also be noted that it will never be given one because of this reason.

Water parameters for this fish are somewhat the same as the original Green Parrot, neutral pH and a temperature of around 26°C or 78°F. Parrot Cichlids have been known to grow to 12 inches in length or more in some rare occasions and can be expected to live for up to 10 years.

Some good Tank Mates for the Parrot Cichlid are as follows;

* Geophagus cichlids,

* Rainbow cichlids,

* Firemouths,

* Severums

* Some Tetra species (make sure they are not fin nippers)

Blood Parrots generally attempt to breed when the water parameters are suitable, and in some cases have been known to attempt to breed every few weeks or so. Unfortunately, the lack of egg fertilization is a common problem associated with these fish and breeding, although consistent might be very unsuccessful.

However more and more people have reported that they have had successful breeding pairs, perhaps this is all a part of their hybrid origins being bred out of them.

By Craig Wrightson If you would like to learn more about Parrot Cichlids and their environment, visit my site African Cichlid Success - NEW eBOOK! Get Instant Access! Learn everything you need to know about setting up and maintaining a perfect Cichlid Tank including the unbelievably simple secrets the professional breeders use on caring, feeding, breeding, and diseases! Article Source: EzineArticles

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