Useful Tips for Cleaning an ACRYLIC AQUARIUM

A diver cleaning acrylic at the Georgia Aquarium. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Cleaning your acrylic aquarium can seem like a daunting task, but with the right tools, the job can be safe for the tank and easy on you. Scratches can be avoided with the help of these useful tips to guide you through the process.

* For cleaning the outside of your acrylic tank DO NOT use products that contain ammonia, alcohol, or abrasives such as Windex and other commercial cleaners. DO NOT use coarse sponges or pads. The best thing to use is a soft cotton cloth with water or polish dedicated especially to acrylic.

* Mag-floats or a soft cotton cloth should be used on the inside of an acrylic tank to remove algae. Be extremely careful as to not allow sand and gravel to come between the mag-float/cloth and acrylic while cleaning, it will more than likely leave scratches. There are also sponges/pads made for cleaning aquariums that are compatible with acrylic as well, but be sure to read the labels and directions carefully.

*When there are algae close to the bottom of the tank, gently move aside any sand or gravel close to the edge of the acrylic. Use a plastic card (something like a credit card) to gently scrape off the algae from the acrylic sides. Soft plastic scrapers can also be purchased that are used for cleaning aquariums.

*Gravel or sand vacuums are great for cleaning the bottom of any fish tank. Be careful when using not to bump the sides of the acrylic tank.

*If algae become a big problem, you can empty the entire fish tank and soak with bleach water (use 1 part bleach to 20 parts water) for 24-48 hours. The algae will wipe off clean with a soft cotton cloth. Remember when refilling the acrylic aquarium to use double the amount of water conditioner (start right) to accommodate for the bleach.

* If scratches do occur in your acrylic tank, purchase an acrylic scratch removal kit. These will allow you to buff the scratches right out. There are even some kits that can be safely used underwater without having to remove any life from the aquarium.

Acrylic fish tanks have multiple advantages that come with them, but one common concern about them is their ability to scratch easily. Acrylic tanks can scratch, but the great thing about acrylic is that those scratches can be removed. Glass can also scratch, but there is no removing those scars on glass tanks. With the right equipment and knowledge, cleaning your acrylic fish tank is simple and scratches can be avoided.

By Dustin Lee Williams - Article Source: EzineArticles

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The Fun of Owning Paradise Fish

Paradis Fish - Photo: Wikipedia

Paradise Fish are some of the easiest and most durable fish that you can buy for your home aquarium. They're enjoyable and attractive to the eye, with the males being a bright hue of oranges and reds. Females tend to be a little bit duller but are exciting none the less. These fish are related to the Beta and fighting fish family, so there are a few key things you need to know about keeping them and having a thriving home aquarium. Home aquariums are perfect for the animal lover who doesn't have time for a dog or cat, and they're beautiful and attractive to the eye.

Male paradise fish can be aggressive, and they have a tendency to attack other fish that are smaller than them or resemble female paradise fish. To keep your fish happy and functioning, then don't put any smaller, more timid fish in a tank with paradise fish. There should only be one male in a tank because they will fight for the dominant position; there's a real possibility one could kill the other. If you place a female fish in with a male fish, make sure there are a cave and lots of hiding places for the female to escape the violence of a male fish. They can be put in the same tank though.

When setting up your aquarium for your Paradise Fish, you should know these things. Make sure that you have floating plants to diminish the light that comes in, and males like to make nests in the foliage. These fish can breathe oxygen, so they shouldn't be in an aquarium larger than 10 gallons and make sure there are numerous hiding places (caves and rocks) for female paradise fish. These fish are also "jumpers" so make sure that you have a secure lid on the tank.

During the mating season, male fish will be nicer to female fish. But once the eggs are fertilized, the male guards the eggs and will become extra violent. Female fish should be removed from the aquarium as soon as she is finished laying her eggs. Once the eggs have hatched and the fry is free swimming the male should also be removed from the breeding tank.

When it comes to feeding your paradise fish, this can be really fun and exciting. Since these fish are jumpers, if you hold a piece of food in the tips of your fingers and hold it above the water, the fish will jump up and take the food from your tips. These fish are fun and creative and are extremely beautiful to look at. They're a lot of fun, and extremely easy to take care of.

By Dustin Williams

Dustin Williams is a hobbyist who has kept aquarium fish for several years. He has learned much about keeping freshwater aquarium fish from books, and personal experience. For more information on Paradise Fish please visit bbayaquariums.com.

Article Source: EzineArticles

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Choosing PLANTS for Your BETTA FISH Tank

Photo by Joel Carnat

Betta fish use plants as a defensive strategy in their natural environments.  This allows them to avoid contact with predators and other male Bettas  Nervous or threatened-feeling Bettas will squeeze through close together plants to escape danger.  Because of this, it is important to include some kind of plant in your Betta's tank, to reduce stress and allow it to feel that it can hide.

While some people prefer artificial plants in their aquariums, live plants help to take care of harmful chemical byproducts in the tank, such as ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates.  They also perform the important function of gas exchange, keeping the water more oxygenated than an environment without plants or with artificial plants.  Soft and leafy plants are preferred, to prevent damage to the Betta's scales should it squeeze between leaves or branches.

Plants do require light, however.  An aquarium with live plants should have either access to sunlight or a light built into the hood.  Some plants which are recommended for use with Betta fish are the floating Water Sprite, Hornwort, and Elodea.  Tiger Lotus is considered good for use in tanks with breeding Bettas since it puts out a lily-pad-like leaf that sits on the surface of the water.  Male Bettas use this leaf to shelter their bubble nests.  Be sure to keep an eye on your Betta tank's plants, since dead and rotting vegetation can be bad for the water quality.  Java Moss and Java Ferns can thrive in uncycled bowls without any filtration.  They also require low to medium light and are thus suitable for aquariums or enclosures that cannot be put close to a window.

Live plants for your Betta tank can be found locally from some aquarium stores or ordered from the Internet.  All plants should be bright green and very healthy looking.  They should also be quarantined before placing them in with the fish, to make sure that they do not carry diseases or parasites that could harm your Betta  Be sure to acquire plants from a reputable source.  It is wise to do some research on your supplier before purchasing live plants for your Betta tank.  Bettas tend to interact more with live plants than with artificial plants.  Many types of artificial plants are also rough and could damage fins and scales.  Unlike fake plants, real ones will also sway attractively in the water as the fish swims through them.  When the time comes to clean the tank, some plants can be gently removed and rinsed if this is desired.  This is particularly easy when using free-floating plants like the Java fern.

For more information on beta fish plants, try visiting http://www.bettafishcenter.com, a popular website that provides tips, advice, and resources on caring for betta splendens. Article Directory: EzineArticles

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TIGER SHOVELNOSE CATFISH - Pseudoplatystoma Fasciatum

TIGER SHOVELNOSE CATFISH - Pseudoplatystoma Fasciatum

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Tropical Fish Overview - DANIO

Photo  by Katty Fe 

Looking for a companion to your Bala Shark or another tropical fish? Then look no farther than Danios. These fish are tough, highly vigorous, and have a mild temper. These fish are great for your home aquarium and suggested to be your first fish.

You want one-quarter of an inch of gravel on the bottom of your tank, with the heater adjusted between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The longer you keep your fish, you can slowly adjust the temperature to a point to where you do not even need a heater.

When buying food for your new fish, it is recommended you use freeze dried worms and brine shrimp. Danios are a community fish and prefer to live in groups of a minimum of 6 fish.

These beautifully long, sleek and shiny fish are a wonderful addition to your aquarium. Danios originate in freshwater rivers and streams of Southeast Asia. These fish are becoming more widely known as new species have been found in Myanmar. They can grow between 4 cm to 15 cm and are not expected to live more than a few years at most.

The Danio are wonderful fish to have with other types of fish. They can be unruly and have a tendency to chase one another and your other fish. This tends to lead to nipping of fins, although most of the time it was an accident. They will eat any fish small enough to fit in their mouths.

When preparing your water, you need to make sure the pH balance is between 6.0 to 8.0, and the water hardness of 5.0 to 19.0, with a temperature difference of 68 to 80 degree Fahrenheit, however, cooler temperatures are preferable.

If you choose to breed your own Danios, you might want to arrange a smaller tank for the babies. Also remember that they like to scatter their eggs, which do not adhere to anything, and hatch within 2 to 3 days. Remember - their eggs make easy prey if there is not a heavy layer of marbles or Substrate plants.

Submitted by: Lee Dobbins About the Author: Lee Dobbins writes for Fish Tank Guide where you can learn about fish tank care and types of tropical fish such as Danios.  Source: www.isnare.com

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The Feeding and Nourishment of a HERMIT CRAB

Blackeyed hermit crab (Pagurus armatus, armed hermit crab), taken in Victoria, BC, Canada (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In nature, a hermit crab is omnivorous. This means that hermit crabs eat a little of everything including plants and meats. While they are in captivity as a pet, their diet should either be based on a commercial diet with crab food and supplements of natural foods, or a natural diet consisting of foods you yourself might eat. Whatever you feel is best for your hermit crab, they are both adequate to nourish your crab.

As far as commercial food goes, there are several different types of crab food. Ask your local pet store specialist which they would recommend. Crab foods come in pellets or granules. If you are planning to use pellets, they should be crushed into a powder, to make it more easily accessible for your hermit crabs, especially if you plan to purchase a small crab. You can feed other commercial pet foods like reptile food or fish flakes. Whichever you choose, commercial foods need to be supplemented by natural treats. Veggies and fruits are great supplements to a commercial foods diet. Cooked chicken is also a great thing to treat your crab to every now and then.

Commercial diets are very convenient and most are fairly well-balanced. However, the best diet for your hermit crab is a diet full of natural foods only. Fruits that may be fed include mango, papaya, coconut, grapes, and bananas. Veggies that are appropriate to feed your hermit crab are carrots, spinach, broccoli, and seaweed. There are many more foods that are available to feed your hermit crab on a natural foods diet. A care sheet containing all the available foods can be picked up at most decent sized pet stores. Avoid starchy veggies like potatoes as well as avoid dairy products. You might find that your crab likes sweets or salty junk food. This should be rarely given for snacks, as it is not good for the hermit crab anymore than it is for people.

Besides being fed, hermit crabs need calcium. Some ways to provide calcium for your hermit crab are cuttlebone, found in most pet stores in the bird section. This can be broken up or given whole. There are also calcium supplements that can be given to the hermit crab besides cuttlebone. Also, crushed oyster shell, coral sand, and cleaned crushed eggshells all contain calcium for the hermit crab.

Besides food and calcium, hermit crabs need water. Purified water is the only water that will do. Chlorinated water is not acceptable to give to hermit crabs because it can harm their modified gills, causing blisters on them if repeatedly exposed to it. Needed is a water dish large enough for the required natural sponge and for the hermit crab to soak in. Be careful to offer a place for smaller crabs to get out of the dish so they do not drown.

This first water dish is to contain fresh water. There is needed a second dish that should contain salt water, for the hermit crab. They have access to the saltwater in their natural habitats. A sea sponge should also be placed in this container as well. Feeding and providing water for your crab is a vital part of the hermit crab’s survival. Research as much as you can where this is concerned, as hermit crabs are not just throw away pets.

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A BRISTLENOSE PLECO Profile

Photo  by mrpotet 

The Bristlenose Pleco is one of the most popular aquarium fish around the world today but there is some confusion about certain aspects of its naming and exactly what is being referred to when certain names are used. Therefore if you feel you'd like to get to the bottom of how it all fits together and how best to look after these extraordinary fish them please read on.

Bristlenose Pleco is the common name given to the genus Ancistrus which is made up of over 140 species of catfish which come from rivers and streams in South America. Interestingly the name Bristlenose Pleco is not the only common name that they are known as. In Australia, they are predominantly known as Bristlenose Catfish but in other parts of the world including Canada, the USA, and the UK they are known as Bristlenose Plecos or simply Plecos or Plecs.

Therefore if you are new to the world of Bristlenose then be careful as the name Pleco can also be applied to many other genera of Catfish outside the genus Ancistrus, as well. So what you may find in some instances is, when Pleco is used, it may not necessarily be in reference to Bristlenose.

The next important point to understand is that the most common species within the genus is A. cirrhosis or simply the Common Bristlenose. The Common Bristlenose is normally identified by it's a brown color with lighter colored spots but it's also important to know that there is also an albino color variation as well. Both of these color variations also come in what is known as shortfin and longfin varieties, so all up there are 4 different variations of the Common Bristlenose.

A. cirrhosus was also once known as A. dolichopterus. As a consequence when you see the name A dolichopterus it may be incorrectly referring to A. cirrhosus or it could be referring to the real A. dolichopterus which is also known as the Starlight Bristlenose or simply L183. Therefore look for clarification when you do see this name.

This then leads into what is known as the L Number System. Many members of the Catfish family, Loricariidae of which Ancistrus species are a member are allocated what is called an L Number. This is applied to species that have not yet been scientifically classified as a means of identifying them. You may also find that some species have more than one L Number due to being named in different locations which can also lead to some confusion.

Therefore you will find that most Bristlenose Plecos are referred to by their species name or their common name or an L Number or even a combination of any of these.

So as you can see the naming of the Bristlenose Pleco can be a little confusing but luckily for the enthusiast their ease of care is much simpler. Simply ensure the water is heated to between 20 to 27 deg C, it is fairly well oxygenated, there is some sort of current and the pH is slightly acidic. These conditions replicate those of much other fish as well and as such the Bristlenose is well suited to be kept with many different types of freshwater fish.

This is of course just one of the reasons why they are so often called upon as the number one choice for an algae eater in so many community tanks. Therefore you would think that feeding would be pretty straightforward as well and in many respects it is.

Firstly, don't assume that they will survive on just foraging for algae. They do like some added vegetables as well. Blanched zucchini, carrots, and broccoli are all favorites. Also, add the occasional algae wafer and meat-based food and they will be extremely happy. The most important factor though is that plant-based foods should make up the majority of their diet as too much protein can lead to constipation and bloat, which can be fatal.

So now hopefully you'll understand what is being referred to when the many different terminologies are used to describe the Bristle-nose Pleco. They are fairly easy to care for as well but just make sure you get the essentials right and your Bristlenose Pleco will live a long, happy and healthy life.

The Bristlenose Pleco is just such a useful and likable freshwater aquarium fish. They are easy to look after and breed but just like the most thing it does pay to do some quality research if want to keep and breed the Bristlenose Pleco successfully. Find out more at my Bristlenose Pleco blog. Article Source: EzineArticles

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