Choosing Plants For Your KOI WATER GARDEN

Common water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

So you finally finished your water garden construction. You have finally come to the fun part of creating your water garden: picking the flowers and plants that will make your water garden a beautiful oasis.

Not only should you consider beauty when you are picking your plants, but you must also remember that plants provide another, more important value to your garden, biological life. Biological life helps maintain your pool by doing what they would do in nature.

Be sure to pay attention to your climate and area. Some plants can simply not survive in certain conditions, so it is wise to do your research beforehand. Talking with your local dealer will give you some idea of what plants you can and cannot have in your pond.

Lotus Plants

Undoubtedly, since your pond contains Koi, a tropical fish, you may want to keep with the theme and place Lotus plants in your pond. Pretty much everyone with a tropical water garden will want a Lotus plant because the beauty is simply unmatched by other flowers.

Lotus plants provide beautiful blooms and a smell that is unmatched. However, unless you live in an area that sustains temperatures higher then 65 degree Fahrenheit, you will need to have to have a place to house your Lotus plants during the colder months. A greenhouse setup specifically for water plants will work the best.

Lotus plants require soil and a large amount of sunlight. They should be planted in water about 2 to 3 feet deep during the warmer months, and indoors during the colder months.

Water Hyacinths

If you simply do not have the time to plant and maintain your water garden’s foliage, or you are somewhat lazy when it comes to gardening, you may want to consider adding Water Hyacinths. Water hyacinths have become very popular recently because of their simplicity. They do not require any type of soil or planting, you must simply throw them into the water. Only minimal time is needed to anchor them down so that they do not float all over the pond freely.

Water Hyacinths are not only pretty but are also very functional as well. These plants aid in the fight against both algae and blanket weeds.

One downside when having Water Hyacinths is the fact that they will take over your pond and yard if you allow them. Water hyacinths are very invasive and will spread if allowed. In extreme cases, it may even jump the fence and take over the neighbors yard as well. Once they have caused this kind of infestation, it is notoriously difficult to get rid of them.

Hidden But Functional Plants

Alternatively, you may want to consider investing in plants that are not necessarily seen. These plants live below the water line and provide many needed functions to your pond. Some help you battle algae, put oxygen back into the water, or feed your fish for you. 

You can find these plants in bundles at your local pet store or Koi dealer. The majority of underwater plants will not need additional support during the winter, so once you place them in the water, you may not think twice about them again. However, the benefits that you gain from having these types of plants make up for the fact that you are not able to actually see them.

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Captive Care of the NORTH AMERICAN BOX TURTLE

 A female North American three-toed box turtle (Terrapene Carolina triunguis)
(Photo: Wikipedia)

There are 2 species, with 6 subspecies, of North American Box Turtle. They are the: Florida Box Turtle, Eastern Box Turtle, Gulf Coast Box Turtle, Three-toed Box Turtle, Desert Box Turtle, and Ornate Box Turtle.

Box turtles tend to fall somewhere between the truly aquatic turtles and the terrestrial tortoises with their need for access to bodies of water in which to soak and their need for wooded and grassland areas with moist humid soil. Box turtle forage for food on land and spend the time they sleep dug into the earth in burrows, under logs, or wedged under rocks.

HOUSING:

Box turtles need a good size enclosure in order to provide for the proper range of heating and humidity. The smallest size indoor enclosure for one box turtle to be kept in is 3 x 3 x 2 feet. For two turtles, the minimum size should be at least 4 x 4 x 2 feet. Aquariums are not appropriate housing for an adult box turtle. Babies may be kept in aquariums, but as they grow larger enclosures are needed. Create a land area using 2 to 3 inches of good quality plain sterile potting soil slightly moistened. Do not use backyard dirt soil from a garden. Mix the soil with cypress mulch. Do not use coarse substrates such are gravel or sand, as these tend to scratch the shell and open the way for bacterial infections. Box turtles require a hide box in which to get away from it all and feel secure. A good size box in one corner of the enclosure, filled with alfalfa hay in which to burrow. is essential. The hide box can be anything from a cardboard box to a plastic container with a door cut into it. A water area must be provided that is deep enough that the water comes to just about the nose of the turtle. It doesn't need to be swimming, just soaking. If using a kitty litter pan, it is best to sink this into the substrate and provide a ramp to get in and get out for the turtle. The water area must be kept clean at all times. Box turtles not only use the water to soak in but also relieve themselves in.

LIGHTING:

Full spectrum lighting is required for indoor enclosures. Full spectrum light mimics the beneficial effects of natural sunlight, enabling the turtle to metabolize vitamin D3. The full spectrum lighting is an essential part of the calcium metabolization process. Without the specific wavelengths and proper diet, calcium deficiencies will result which may ultimately prove fatal. Box Turtles need 12 to 14 hours of light each day. NOTE: UV waves cannot pass through glass, and 40% of the available waves are lost when the light passes through an aluminum screen, try to have the light shining directly on them.

HUMIDITY/TEMPERATURE:

Day Time temps: 85 to 88 degrees

Night Time temps 70 to 75 degrees.

Most box turtles require a relative humidity of 60 to 80% in at least one area of their enclosure. A turtle that is not provided with the correct humidity often suffers from infected and swollen eyes and ear infections. Providing humidity is simple, in one corner of the enclosure provide some peat moss and wet it down with water until it is fairly moist. A hiding area, such as a cardboard box or large plastic container with ventilation holes should be placed over the wet peat moss. Be sure to check the moss constantly to ensure it is moist and has not dried out.

DIET:

It is best to offer food after the turtle has had a few hours to warm up in the morning. Young turtle requires feeding on a daily basis, while an adult can be fed every other day. Make sure you vary their diet with both plant and animal matter. Vitamin supplements should be added twice a week.

Plants: A variety of vegetables, greens, and fruits are a must. Such as a "salad" of carrots, squash green beans, strawberries, cranberries, blackberries, cherries, and plums. Some cantaloupe (with the rind), mustard greens, dandelions, and collard greens can also be mixed in. For treats, you can add flowers like hibiscus, rose petals, and geraniums.

Meat: High quality low-fat canned dog food, finely chopped cooked chicken or raw beef heart. Live food can also be offered, like mealworms and crickets.

Young turtles require more animal matter in their diet due to their need for protein. As they grow into adults this should be reduced over time to no more than 10% of their total diet.

BRUMATION/HIBERNATION:

It is a good idea to allow your box turtle to hibernate, especially if you keep it in an outdoor enclosure during the summer months.This is to allow the box turtles internal clock to remain normal. If you choose not to hibernate the turtle, you must keep it warm and provide plenty of UV lighting along with their normal dietary needs.

To prepare a box turtle for hibernation, do not feed the animal for two weeks, but keep the heat on to allow the animal to fully digest any food remaining in its stomach and intestinal tract. Soak the box turtle in a shallow container of lukewarm water a few times during this period for about 10 minutes, this will help to hydrate the animal and to remove any food left in their system. Box turtle hibernated with food still present in their intestinal tract can die from massive infections as the food rots inside them.

Hibernating box turtles indoor requires a hibernation box. A cardboard box half filled with moist sterile potting soil or peat moss with holes punched in the sides for aeration is an appropriate hibernation box. After all the food has been cleared from the turtle's system, introduce the turtle to the hibernation box. If the box turtle buries down into the substrate and remains still, it is ready for hibernation. If the animal is moving restlessly around after 20 minutes in the box, return it to its enclosure, wait a few days and try again. If the box turtle is ready, move it to an unheated room, such as a garage, where the temperature will remain between 40 to 55 degrees. Check the box turtle weekly to make sure it has not surfaced prematurely. Box turtles usually come out of hibernation after experiencing temperature above 65 degrees for a few days. After the turtle comes out of hibernation, return it to its regular enclosure, provide water, warm it up for a couple of days, and then offer some food. Pay close attention to the turtle during the time after hibernation to observe for any health problems that may occur.

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How To Rid Your Tank of AIPTASIA

Aiptasia mutabilis
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Aiptasia anemones or commonly know as glass anemones are a common pest in saltwater and marine aquariums. They are usually introduced into people's tanks as hitchhikers from new livestock, in particular new corals and live rock. The problem with aiptasia is that they can multiply extremely quickly and can be very difficult to get rid of once they have begun to take over your tank.

They have a tendency to move themselves around to find the most suitable place and once they have their foot into the rock work or similar they are very hard to remove manually. The vast majority of the time you will be unable to remove the by cutting or plucking as they retract deep into there crevices as soon as you attempt to get near to them.

There are many products on the market that are suitable for removing aiptasia. One of my personal favourites is Joe's Juice. I have used this many times and it never fails to kill the aiptasia that you have targeted with it. Personally I didn't like the syringe that came with it, so I used a separate syringe that I had with a very long fine nozzle on it which allowed me to get much closer to the anemone and in turn apply Joe's Juice to it. This is a fantastic product and is completely safe to your aquarium unlike some of the more unorthodox methods.

You should start off by killing the larger anemones first as they are the ones that are producing the vast majority of spores which can lead to further infestation. Then once you have managed to remove the vast majority of the large ones you can focus on the smaller one. It is a rather time consuming job to actually get rid of them all and you can never be certain that they will all be gone as they embed themselves deep in the rockwork and other crevices that they deem suitable for their home. However you will be able to keep them under control and as soon as a new one appears or seems to popup out of nowhere you will be able to treat them accordingly.

Some of the more natural methods to removing and controlling aiptasia are to use actual marine inhabitants that consume them as part of there normal diet. Peppermint shrimp or a good choice for helping to reduce the amount but at the same time there are mixed reviews on the effectiveness as they don't just consume aiptasia and may only destroy a few of them. Between 4-6 peppermint shrimp for every 30 gallons of water should be adequate to help keep aiptasia under control, but as I mentioned earlier they also eat other foods such as fish and coral food you maybe adding to your aquarium.

Copperband Butterflyfish will also eat aiptasia, but it is recommended that your tank be 75+ gallons to keep these fish. They love to eat aiptasia and are an absolutely stunning fish to look at and watch. One problem with these fish is that they may start to target your corals and some of your invertebrates as food as well. So once again these may not be the best solution for everyone.

A more recent addition to the market, or should I say an ever increasing popular choice is the Berghia Nudibranch. These are extremely effective at destroying aiptasia as it is the only thing they consume for food. The main issue is that once they have ridded your tank of infestation they will slowly begin to die as they will starve to death. An alternative to buying Berghia Nudibranch is to actually rent them from a Local Fish Shop, which is also becoming common practice. Other ways to obtain them would be too look at your look marine / reef clubs as they also quite often have members that rent/lend them out to member's tanks.

Removing these pests from your marine aquarium is far from an easy task and can be time consuming. As previously mentioned Joe's Juice is one of the quickest and most effective ways of ridding your aquaria of these pests. Keep a look out for more articles from me. In a future article we will be looking into the use of a Majano Wand to rid your aquaria of aiptasia.

By Matthew Braker Matt @ Coralswap has over 5 years experience in setting up and maintaining Marine Aquariums. Why not visit our site and learn more about maintaining and setting up marine aquariums as well as trading corals & frags with our other members. We hope to see you soon! Coralswap - Swap Corals You can also visit our store at Coralswap Store Cleartides Article Source: EzineArticles

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Understanding The Secrets Behind CATFISH

Catfish - Photo: Pixabay

There is actually a reason behind catfish being one of the best game fish for many experienced as well as beginner fishermen. One part of the story is that this fish is really smart and fast unlike many people think. Catching this type of fish requires you to know some catfish facts first. Understanding its biology as well as behavior is the key to becoming a better catfisher. If you know how this fish moves, feeds and breeds, then you got a good chance of catching it easily. Following some useful catfishing tips would also increase your chances of catching the big cats that you've always dreamed about.

Catfish got their name obviously from the barbells around their mouths, which look like cat whiskers. These barbells are there for a really good reason. Because of their high sensitivity, the catfish are able to taste the surrounding water for possible food as well as for potential danger. This morphology makes it a highly adaptive fish even in the worst water conditions.

Unlike many people think, a lot of catfish species have various venoms to defend themselves against other predators. While the existence of venomous species that can cause harm to men hasn't been reported in North America, many proofs show that there are highly poisonous catfishes in some parts of the world. When this fish feels threatened, it extends its spines or (barbs) and strikes with them when attacked (even by a human). The good thing is that most of the catfish venoms aren't strong enough and can only cause you some pain that could last an hour or so. The best practice that you could do is to always wear safety gloves when unhooking them.

Another catfish fact that you should be aware of, is that these fish don't actually have scales, yes they don't have any! It's true that armored catfishes have bonny plates covering some parts of their bodies, but they don't really have scales. Someone would wonder how this fish is able to survive harsh conditions even without having solid scales that back them up. Well, the secret as many experienced catfishers say is in their tough skins. So if you think that their lack of scale is making them weak, you need to think again.

Catfish doesn't actually ask for the luxury many other species do. They eat whatever food they find in their face. They can eat everything from meat, plants, bugs, fish eggs and even dead species. The best time for catching a catfish is probably when they are out for food. While these game fishes can eat anything, they definitely don't eat men as many myths and false stories try to tell you!

By Chris Coen - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Everything on RED BLUSHING ANGELFISH

Royal angelfish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Is it true that Red Blushing angels are available?

It is an important fact that the pigment which is responsible actual red is not the same which is responsible for the bright red eyes or even reddish or orange crown seen in some angels.

Two factors are responsible for the appearance of these pigments on any angelfish. These two factors are generally inter-related. The first factor is genetics. Because, without the genetic makeup, no angelfish can have color. So, no Black angel can convert into the red. Again, there are certain colors which can show only in the presence of certain genes.

Red spotting can be seen on certain wild angelfish which seem like real red pigment. So it is possible that the red pigment visible in red blushing angelfish is really red but there may remain a certain question about its source.

What is the ideal pH level?

Caring for angelfish can be a pleasurable yet daunting task. You need to maintain perfect condition for keeping your fish healthy. One important aspect of angelfish care is to maintain the perfect pH level in the tank water. If you plan to raise and breed wild angelfish then it will be good if you provide them softer acid water. But be careful not to fluctuate the pH level of the water. Generally, 8.5 pH and 250 ppm hardness are considered to be the best.

What is the average age of angelfish?

The longevity of angelfish depends on the way you take care of them. Angelfish are cold-blooded creatures and therefore, their lifespan depends on the temperature of the water. High temperature burns more calories and exhausts them very quickly. Again, if you provide the right temperature then they will definitely live for 10-12 years. For this, it is good to keep the water temperature in the mid-seventies.

Should the Angelfish Tank Remain Bare?

If you are having your angelfish tank for show purpose then you can go for gravel instead of keeping your tank bare. However, if you are interested in breeding then gravels are not recommended. If you have a tank with angelfish fry then you must keep the bottom bare. This will prevent the fry food from falling into the gravel.

How to differentiate the female angelfish from the male angelfish?

It is very difficult to differentiate male angelfish from the female ones when they are young. However, with age, there come certain differences which you may be able to notice if monitored carefully. First of all, examine the breeding tube of the fish. The female's tube is wider compared to the male. Apart from that, some male angelfish possess a hump on their crown. Moreover, the males are a little larger in size than the females. Again, the female fish will normally have an almost 100°-110° angle created formed by the forward edge of the belly and the anal fin.

By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is an angelfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding angelfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy angelfish the natural way. Article Source: EzineArticles

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NEW YORK AQUARIUM

New York Aquarium by David Shankbone, New York City (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This aquarium is located in Brooklyn. The aquarium contains more than eight thousand aquamarine animals. The more attractive part of this aquarium is its design, which allows the visitors to watch the animals swim in the large aquarium. The purpose aquarium is to educate the visitors about different aquamarine species and also to promote the message of preserving the ocean wildlife.

History

The first New York Aquarium was built in Battery Park, which was shut down in 1941on the suggestion of Robert Moses that the construction of a tunnel from Lower Manhattan to Brooklyn will affect the Castle Clinton's foundation. The animals were then moved to the Bronx Zee. The new aquarium was opened after the Second World War on June 6, 1957, in Coney Island.

The aquarium is located over an area of 14 acres. There are more than 350 species of animals kept in the aquarium. It also has a famous research center named, Osborn Laboratories of Marine Sciences (OLMS).

The Aquarium

New York Aquarium has many different types of ocean life for the exhibition. At the entrance of the Aquarium, a map is given for the convenience of visitors to locate different sections easily.

Feedings and Demonstrations

Visitors can see the staff while feeding the marine animals, such as walruses, sharks, and penguins. You can find feeding times posted in various location of the aquarium. Demonstration exhibition will allow the visitors to touch the skin of the shark.

Animal Enrichment

Special care is taken to improve the living conditions of the marine animals in the aquarium. This will enrich the visitors' visit to the aquarium.

The Aquatheater

Aquarium has an Aquatheater as well. This Aquatheater was open in 1995. You can watch the dolphin performance in this theater. Dolphin will perform different tricks to amuse the visitors. You just need to show the admission ticket and they will allow you to enter the theater.

Explore the Shore

This is feature is popular among the children. In Explore the Shore, the visitors will have a hand on experience with the tidal waves. The touch pool is the place where you explore the shore. The timing of touch pool from Monday to Thursday is 11a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday the timing for touch pool is 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. On Friday and other holidays it remains closed.

Sea Cliffs

Sea Cliffs are the place where you can watch the walruses, sea otter and fur seals. Watching these creatures in Sea Cliff is a great fun. The staff also tells you some facts about these creatures.

Roy and Silo

These are the name given to two penguins in the aquarium. These penguins are the most attractive feature of New York Aquarium.

The Deep Sea 3-D Simulator Ride

The aquarium offers a submarine ride called "Deep Sea 3-D Simulator Ride". You need to buy a separate ticket to participate in the ride. This ride will take you to the bottom of the ocean.

Variety

The best feature of the aquarium is that it has a variety of marine animals. Whales, sharks, penguins, sea otter, fur seals, walruses, jellyfish, Beluga whales and many different types of fish.

By Tauqeer Ul Hassan You might also want to learn about New York Aquarium and New York Botanical Gardens. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Reptile History

Reptiles, illustration by Adolphe Millot from Nouveau Larousse Illustré [1897-1904] 

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Many people overlook that dinosaurs were reptiles, as are tortoises and turtles.  Frogs are often lumped into the same category while they are, in fact, amphibians.

Reptiles evolved from amphibians because of their necessity to learn to adjust to life on land.  This brought about the need for legs and lungs to breathe air.  Yet snakes are legless, able to crawl along with their magnificent bodies.  The scaly reptile skin was necessary to protect the bodies from the rough surface of the ground, much different from the smooth water the amphibians were used to.

Science has described over 7,000 species of reptiles, even going so far as to claim birds as a part of the reptile group because of the inherited characteristics such as their skeletons, internal organs, and DNA.  There is a distinction besides feathers, though.  Birds are endotherms, meaning they must have food for energy to keep warm.  Other reptiles are ectotherms which need an outside heat source to help them retain proper body temperature.

Crocodiles are in the second oldest group of reptiles, perhaps resembling the dinosaur relatives more than any other reptile group.  Although, the turtle is the winner of the oldest proven reptile group, even older than the dinosaurs!

There are two groups of turtles, one group fares best on land and the other in the water.  The one that fares best on land is the terrestrial tortoise.

Success in keeping a reptile for a pet depends much on your climate.  You can forget sticking your pet snake, turtle, or lizard outside in a cage or pen or aquarium if you live in a cold climate.  Keeping the pet at a controlled temperature is essential to its survival.  Digestion depends on the right temperature and so does the animal's ability to move around successfully.

It may seem cute to see that little turtle basking in the sun on a log in a pond.  But the reptile needs the heat to stay alive. Too much heat is also as bad as too little.

Maybe the turtle's ability to live for so many centuries when other animals perished is because of its outstanding lifespan.  A turtle can live to 100 years old if the conditions are right!

Old temples have been discovered in Africa with snakes carved into the walls, giving pythons a sacred quality over the many years of its existence.  But the boas have been known to live over forty years at a time in zoos!  Anacondas have been feared in South America for a long time.  Any snake that can grow to over 35 feet deserves a wide berth!

An interesting reptile that's been around a long time is a native of Madagascar.  The chameleon exists in 120 different known types.  Oustalet's chameleon is about the size of a small cat.  It would give a domestic feline a definite scare to walk upon one of those!  On the other end of the size spectrum, the Dwarf Brookesia, also a native of Madagascar, is small enough to stand on the tip of a finger.

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