The Plight of the MANDARIN GOBY

Synchiropus splendidus, Callionymidae, Mandarin Dragonet; (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The mandarin dragonet, or its common names, the mandarin goby or the mandarin fish is a very commonly collected species of fish that almost always perish in the holding tanks or in the owners' aquariums. And that is a shame because they do just fine on their own in the wild.

They are given the scientific name Synchiropus Splendidus, probably after the splendid array of colors present on this peaceful and shy fish. They are collected in huge numbers around the Indo-Pacific and are a common sight at most marine aquarium shops around the world.

They are breathtakingly beautiful and have committed the crime of being beautiful and plentiful both at the same time, which is why so many of them are collected every month. As a hobbyist that has had vast experience in the field of marine aquariums, I can safely say that over 95% of these lovely fish die a premature death. And why? Because of their diet.

They require a steady diet of live copepods and similar creatures to live a healthy life in captivity. They are also hard to get on prepared foods like brine or mysis shrimp. Even if you manage to get them to eat frozen foods, there is no way they can compete with their tank mates as they are extremely slow eaters.

Too many times have I seen tanks upon tanks holding hundreds of them ready for export with the knowledge that almost none of them will make it. The price of a specimen? All too low due to their common nature in the wild.

Huge collection and mortality rates will eventually the depletion of wild stocks in our oceans. I wouldn't be surprised to hear the Mandarin Goby listed as an endangered species one day. It could be in 10 years time or it could happen in 50. Point is, it will happen.

Fortunately, there have been successful captive breeding of the mandarin goby by some hobbyists and I am certain their successes can be emulated on a large scale. But there simply isn't enough money in captive-reared mandarin gobies. They are a cheap fish and breeders will have a hard time trying to recoup their costs in this case.

By Indran Manickam In the meantime, their collection will continue and they will keep on dying in captivity. The only solution is through educating people about the care and requirements of the Mandarin Goby and its similarly difficult cousin, the Scooter Blenny. Hopefully, hobbyists will start reading up on the needs of these lovely creatures and success rates with these fish should increase. More importantly, they need a sustainable captive rearing program for the industry in the long term. Article Source: EzineArticles

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JAGUAR CICHLIDS - An Overview

"Parachromis managuensis"  

Photo: Wikimedia Commons.

Native to South American freshwaters, the Jaguar Cichlid (Parachromis managuensis) is as aggressive as its name suggests. For this reason, one must be careful not to put them into a tank with smaller species; it will attack them. During the breeding period, their aggression is heightened and they may even attack larger species. Providing a separate tank during breeding, or at the very least a tank partition will be beneficial to your entire fish population.

The Jaguar Cichlid can live for 15 years and males can reach sizes over 12 inches. Females will rarely exceed 12 inches in size, but these fish will need a relatively large aquarium, not less than 180 gallons if breeding or kept with other fish. Water temperatures should be kept between 77F and 97F with a pH level between 7.0 and 8.7.

If you want a Jaguar cichlid and you want to reduce it's aggressive behavior (which you can only do to a certain extent) then replicating their natural environment and water chemistry is a must. When I say natural environment, I mean the substrate of their habitat, the plants that are found in their favorite swimming areas, the types of rocks or driftwood and even the pace of the current. You can add a current to your aquarium by installing special jets with an adjustable flow-rate. Water chemistry includes pH, water temperature, water hardness and water clarity.

As a predatory fish, the Jaguar Cichlid prefers live food but may be trained to consume pellets as well. These fish reach maturity when they are about 4 inches in size and at this point are ready to breed. Males will lose the stripes on their body when mature. In keeping with their aggressive nature, males may become violent even with the females when breeding so it may be necessary to divide the tank in a way that the female may reach the male, but not vice versa. You can do this by installing a plastic divider in the aquarium. The divider needs to have one or two holes that are big enough for the female to swim through, but too small for the male to fit. This will allow the female to interact with the male when she wants to and swim away to protect herself when she needs to.

Jaguar Cichlids double in population every 1 to 4 years and are sought after for food and trade alike. Be sure you can accommodate the special needs of a Jaguar Cichlid before you make the decision to add them to your aquarium.

By Preston Mane - Article Source: EzineArticles

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BALL PYTHON Care For Pet Lovers

Python regius - ball python (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Ball python care is one of the important things you should know about them. You must provide them with their basic needs in life to make them happy, healthy and comfortable even in captivity. Most ball pythons live most of their lives in the wild so when caught in captivity they seem so hard to adjust to their new environment. 

This is where you should start giving care to them in order for them to easily adjust in their new home with us. You must provide a comfortable home for them to stay in. A comfortable home for them is an enclosure with basic needs and accessories in it such as hide boxes, ceramic sturdy water bowls, full-spectrum lights, thermometers, and a substrate and heat pads.

In ball python care, you must also know how to feed and handle your pythons. Caring for your ball pythons is feeding them with pre-killed preys. Young pythons must be fed with pinkie mice and adult ball pythons must be fed of large rats. Never force feed your snakes and let them eat on their own. Remember also not to give them live preys for it is dangerous for them. You must also know how to handle your ball pythons in order for them to be tame and be a use of human contact. Keep in mind also that you should not handle your pythons after feeding because they are a bit sensitive after eating so let it stay in its cage for few days then after, you can handle them again.

Ball python care is important also on sick ball pythons. A sick python needs all the love and care in order for them to survive in this stressful situation in their life. Caring for sick ball pythons is placing them in a quarantine tank with hiding boxes and water bowl. Maintain also the right amount of temperature and humidity in the tank. In ball python care, you must always check your snake from signs of illnesses such as mouth rot, IBD, blister disease and respiratory disease so you can treat it at once and it won't get worst. These are some tips on keeping ball python healthy that you should know and follow.

Now that you know all these ball python care, apply it to your pet ball python to make them really healthy. Caring for them makes them happy and comfortable even in captivity. Giving them the proper care will make them live a longer life.

By Andrew T Jones - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Berghia NUDIBRANCH

Berghia Nudibranch

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Tips - DWARF GOURAMI Care and Spawning

Female and male dwarf gouramis (Colisa lalia) showing sexual dimorphism. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The gourami or Colisa lalia is a member of the family Belontiidae. It is native to India. The Indian Gourani is often referred to as the dwarf gourami because there is a larger gourami native to Thailand that grows twice the size of the Indian variety.

The Gourami is part of the Anabantoidei suborder. This suborder evolved a lung-like organ known as a labyrinth to help them survive in low oxygenated environments. The labyrinth allows them to breathe atmospheric oxygen. Gouramis will frequently rise to the surface to take in atmospheric oxygen. Members of the Anabantoidei Suborder need a combination of both airborne and dissolved oxygen to survive.

In nature, male dwarf gouramis have diagonal stripes alternating in blue and red. Females are silver. However selective breeding has yielded red, neon, and rainbow variations. Both sexes have tread-like touch-sensitive cells extending from their pelvic fins. Adults reach about two inches in length.

Gouramis are docile in nature. They work well in community tanks as long as they are housed with fish of similar temperament. Despite their shy demeanor, gouramis are aggressive toward other gouramis. Each gourami establishes a territory and hiding place of its own. Gouramis take readily to heavily planted aquariums. They seem to function better in pairs. Keep this in mind when deciding whether they are what you are looking for in the way of a new addition to your tank.

Gouramis thrive in slightly acidic water with a temperature range between 77-82 °F. They are omnivore and can survive perfectly well on a diet of tropical fish flakes.

It is easy to distinguish between males and females. The males have a much brighter color palette. Females are harder to find for sale because of this. If you can not find one at your local fish store they can be ordered online.

Breeding Dwarf Gourami

Gouramis are most likely to spawn in still water. A breeding tank with the filter capacity turned way down will make a suitable environment. Make certain there are floating plants in the breeding tank. The male Gourami will use his labyrinth to make a bubble nest prior to spawning.

Unlike most bubble nest builders, gourami will incorporate small pieces of plants, twigs and other debris into the design of their nest. This addition helps to hold the nest together.

Once the nest is constructed, courting officially begins. Courting is usually initiated in the afternoon or early evening. The males signal his intention to spawn by swimming in circles around the female with his fins flared. If the female accepts his invitation, she will start swimming in circles with the male underneath the bubble nest. When she is ready to spawn she will touch the male on the back or the tail with her mouth.

Spawning generally takes several hours. After spawning is complete remove the female from the tank. The male will stand guard over his bubble nest. The fry will hatch within the next two days. Leave the male with the fry for two or three days. Make sure he is done parenting his brood before removing him to the community tank.

Fry can be fed liquid fry food or small amounts of powdered eggs. After about four days their diet can be changed to newly hatched brine shrimp or finely crushed fish flakes.

Gouramis have been known to mate with other gouramis of another species. Unfortunately, there are usually sterile.

By Stephen J Broy The mere mention of the word "saltwater" sends shivers up many freshwater aquarium owners' spines. In the past decade a new segment of the aquarium industry has been created for home aquarium owners; the Jellyfish Aquarium Fish Tank. Jellyfish aquariums are much easier to maintain than traditional saltwater tanks. Pet Moon Jellyfish look absolutely incredible under a fading LED lighting system. Article Source: EzineArticles

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How To Prevent HERON Theft

Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii in Kolkata, West Bengal, India. Category: Ardeola grayii (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Herons are beautiful, majestic birds that have one major flaw. Herons love to feast on Koi, and where better than to find Koi then an unattended Koi pond or garden? 

When you first notice a Heron in your garden, you may not even think of these birds as a danger. Herons are 2 or 3 feet tall, with an extremely large wingspan. They appear to be extremely graceful until you realize that the beautiful sight you were just looking at could have potentially been a thief caught in the act.  

If you noticed that your fish are missing in action, chances are a Heron is to blame. You may even notice large gaping holes in the sides of your Koi. This happens when a Heron attempts to catch one of your Koi but does not get a good grip on it. The other will notice their Koi laying on the lawn several feet away from the pond, which is the result of a Heron dropping the Koi after removing it from the pond. While nothing can completely stop this from happening, you can do a few things to detour Herons from eating your pride stock of Koi. 

While there are many types of technical equipment available to attempt to detour Herons, you will quickly find that these types of detours will only work for a small amount of time.

Some pond owners place a fake plastic Heron into their garden. This is supposed to detour another Heron from landing there. This works for parts of the season until the mating season comes. Herons will be more likely to land near your plastic Heron when they are looking for a mate.

Various other types of equipment attempt to detour Herons by causing them discomfort. This only works until the Heron get used to it, or just finds a way around it.

The only way to protect your Koi is by watching out for them. A few simple things will not prevent Heron from visiting your pond, but it will greatly reduce the presence of them.

1) Constantly change your routine. Herons are smart and know when you will typically be present. Visiting your pond frequently at various times during the day will greatly increase the chance that you will catch the Heron in action. If you are unable to vary your routine, you may consider enlisting others to visit your pond as well. Older, trustworthy children in the neighborhood may delight in visiting your pond at various times of the day. Giving them permission to visit whenever they want will allow others to visit when you are unable too. 

2) If you catch a Heron in the act, make as much noise and frighten the Heron as much as you physically can. Shout, yell, throw things, or whatever you feel will scare the Heron. The more frightened the Heron is, the less chance he is to return anytime soon.

3) Create a hiding place in your pond for your Koi. More natural Koi pond owners have noticed that after a Heron attacks a pond, it may seem that the Heron has got all the fish, only to notice that the Koi start appearing from strange hiding places once the scare is over. If you purposely provide a place for your Koi to hide in the event of an attack, you greatly reduce the amount of fish that a Heron will leave with. Do not worry about your Koi hiding from you, as they should know and trust that you will not hurt (or eat) them.

4) Do not restock your pond right away in the event of a Heron attack. Waiting to restock may send the Heron searching for new feeding grounds.

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A Beginners Guide to a Clean and HEALTHY AQUARIUM

aquarium (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A clean aquarium is the best habitat for all kinds of fish or other living organisms like crabs for example. A clean aquarium means your fish and plants will live for a long time saving you time and allowing you to enjoy watching them grow. The best way to keep an aquarium clean is to have all the proper equipment and use it often to clean with. It is also a matter of know how. There are a few things that every aquarium owner must know to clean an aquarium and maintain it in the best possible way. 

People who don’t know much about aquariums might use harsh household cleaners to clean their aquariums. This would have detrimental to the small ecosystem you ought to be striving to create. Good tips for keeping your aquarium clean is to keep the water supply clean by cleaning the water pump. To do so one should always keep the filtration system in mind. A good clean filter is what the life of your aquariums ecosystem depends on. Cleaning the filter too often might also have a negative impact on your aquariums life. 

It is therefore important to maintain a balance and to clean your aquarium's filter only when needed or specified by the manufacturer of the filter. Many aquariums experts recommend that the ornaments as well as the glass ought to be cleaned at least once every two weeks. Cleaning the aquarium ornaments and glass prevents algae from building up inside. If the aquarium is made from plastic materials then cleaning should be performed at smaller time intervals, perhaps once a week. When performing maintenance operations to your aquarium, you should always keep in mind a few things to ensure that things are going smoothly inside your aquarium. Check the air pump and see if it is running ok. It is imperative that there is enough oxygen for the fish but also to allow for proper flow of the water. 

Another thing that will ensure a longer life for your aquarium is ensuring that the water is changed often. This way your fish and plants will live longer and your aquarium will definitely look better. One more thing that you should do to maintain a clean aquarium is to clean, or at least rinse the gravel that sits on the bottom of your aquarium. This process entails that you remove all contents of the aquarium including the fish. Therefore, its viability depends highly on how many as well as what kind of fish you have. 

Keeping a clean aquarium does not only entail cleaning it every week or two weeks. You should also consider acquiring a water purifier. There are many kinds of purifiers out there for different types of aquariums as well as sizes. When you use a water purifier to clean the water contents of your fish tank you should always let it sit and mix with the water to allow it to dissolve. If you are new to aquariums, always remember to read the instructions on every product used. Be careful; keep a schedule for maintenance operations and treat your aquarium with love and it will eventually flourish.

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