TETRA FISH - A Great Choice For Your Aquarium Collection

Photo  by Schill 

Let's talk about what attracted me to a tetra fish - the size of course! Tetras can grow to as much as two inches and can live up to five to ten years. Personally, it is one of my top choices for a freshwater tank fish because most fishes grow so big that they don't fit in your aquarium anymore after some time. Thus, you will have no choice but to transfer the big ones to a different tank. That is way too much work especially if you are a busy person and hey! I love to admire the little variety of these little ones, packed with other tropical freshwater rascals. Watching them glide after a long, tiring day is just heaven. All of you fish lovers out there surely understand what I mean!

Different Tetra Breeds

Moving on, there are many different species of tetras. I have seen about 26 of them. They come in different color, shape and size. They are also distinguished by their minuscule adipose fins, found between the dorsal and caudal fin. To keep it simple as ABC, the fins are very recognizable. My favorite is the bleeding heart tetra. There is something about the pinkish color and its bulky nature that makes it look attractive. It's price starts around $4. A tetra in general costs between $1 to $10 depending on its species. Some will need a lot of care and supervision, while others don't. A few others might need a certain special care or else they die in poor water conditions. So far, the most expensive one is the splashing tetra, diamond head neon and congo tetra. The neon-orange color from the tail going up of the diamond head is simply amazing if you have seen one! I guess that's why the price is so much more compared to regular one. Say for example the glow light or the head and tail light tetra, where the color is a simple shade of silvery hues. But to tell you the truth, the splashing tetra astounds me. It's pretty pricey for a silver colored tetra. Nothing fancy about it! Could be the ability to jump makes it more expensive? I am baffled.

Neon Tetra

Nonetheless, I am pretty sure you're more familiar with the neon tetra who is very famous of their kind. It has bluish and reddish combination found in both black and clear waters of Brazil, Colombia, and Peru. Funny thing is, they also need to be kept in a group. Maybe a school of 10 neon tetra is ideal, otherwise, they would feel stressed alone. Another appealing tetra species is the serpae tetra. They come in vivid red to brownish red tint. It has a variety of names - jewel, red Serpa or blood characin, something that pertains to the red color. Another sweetheart is the penguin tetra. Its stripe color gives it a bit more of an advantage in attracting tetra lovers. It doesn't have the strong alluring shade, but the distinct black line in the center probably makes it very beautiful to look at.

Food For Tetra Fish

There is a number of food source for this type. They range from enhancing the color of your puny friends, high-protein formula, high vegetable content, energy booster, maximum nutrition, or simply nutritious ingredients for your tetras. The question is, why do you need to give the best food for your tetras? Feeding them with good quality food extends the life of your pleasurable experience watching your tropical fish frolic in your aquarium. Proper nutrition also keeps the water in your tank clean, clear and easier to care for. Not to mention, it keeps your fish healthy, very colorful and at the same time minimize the waste production.

Tetra Fish Tanks

Now for your tetra fish tanks, there is a couple of equipment to keep in mind in setting up your aquarium. The essential items and accessory you need are: stands, hood and lighting, aquarium gravel, your decoration like rocks and plants, filtration and aeration, heater, thermometer, power strip, cleaning accessories, water test kit, water conditioner and net. If you do not have any idea as to how to set it up, you can actually get professional advice to make sure that you are doing the right thing. You can also do a couple of research and visit forums so you know real-life situations that may help you with your tetra tank.

Taking Care Of Your Tetra Fish

Some effective tips in caring for your tetras is that make sure you get the right tank. Acquire the aquarium kit because everything you need to know and implement is found in the kit. As I have mentioned initially, food is one of the key factors in keeping them dainty and healthy, so have your choices ready according to your tetra needs. 6 - 7.5 Ph of water has to be taken into consideration because they are from warmer climates. Higher ph makes them prone to an ailment. Keep temperature to 23C-28C. Bright lights are also bad for tetras. Keep up a dusk habitat for them. They are also top feeders, so it is better to give them food several times a day to avoid food being uneaten which becomes rotten, therefore poses a risk to their health. There has to uniform distribution of nitrogen and ammonia too. This is quite technical so just obtain the correction instructions.

Anyway, there are tetras that are hard to maintain such as the serpae, bleeding heart, lemon, black skirt, white skirt and red eye tetra. If you can't give them proper care and you don't have time to really find the best procedure and research on what to do, stick for the easier to manage species, like bloodfin tetra. They are suitable for beginners. However, the general rule of thumb is to choose for the ones with bigger, circular-shaped bodies. Thin, cigar-shaped tetras like the neon are not appropriate for beginners tank. If you consider yourself a genuine fish lover and you don't have qualms in looking for the best care of your fishes then there is no reason why you won't enjoy looking after your tiny friends. These are just the many important points to consider before you decide on the tetra fish that you want.

By Leslie Bogaerts - Article Source: EzineArticles

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BICOLOR ANGELFISH - Centropyge bicolor

Bicolor Angelfish - Centropyge bicolor

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Tips on BICOLOR ANGELFISH Care

Photo  by NOAA Photo Library 

Bicolor angelfish or Centropyge bicolor are a part of the family Pomacanthidae. This is but one of the 74 species of cataloged marine angelfish ranging in size from under 3 inches to over 16 in length. This species is widespread throughout the Pacific Ocean with the notable exclusion of the Hawaiian Islands. Significant populations can be found can be found off the coast of Fiji, New Caledonia, New Guinea, as well as throughout the Great Barrier Reef. Bicolors are most often seen in pairs or small aggregations in brackish lagoon water and along reefs slopes at depths ranging from 10 to 80 feet.

This is one of the larger dwarf angles, growing to as long as 6 inches in length as an adult. The anterior body region and caudal fins of these are canary yellows. Their posteriors are royal purple or blue sometimes with thin, barely perceptible, vertical bars that are only slightly lighter in color than the posterior coloration. These fish also have a single purple bar that starts at one eye and loops around the top of their head and then terminates at the other eye. This fish is also marketed by the aquarium trade under the name Oriole Angel.

Bicolor angelfish carry a moderate care level. They can be successfully raised by aquarists of intermediate skill levels. This is among the most peaceful of the commercially available angelfish varieties. They make wonderful additions to a multi-species aquarium provided they are housed with fish of similar size and temperament. Angles often demonstrate territorial aggression toward conspecifics and similar looking species. Bi-colors can be kept together if they are introduced to an aquarium simultaneously as young juveniles. This will allow them to grow up in a small community rather than being introduced to a member of the same species after they have had a chance to establish territorial boundaries. As with any family, intermediate squabbling may still occur on occasion. This species is rated reef safe with caution. 

The younger they are when added to a marine reef aquarium, the less likely they are to come to realize that many of its inhabitants are prime menu choices in the wild. Adult bicolors spend an exorbitant amount of time grazing on the naturally occurring algae growing on live rocks. An abundance of cure live rock is mandatory for keeping this species vigorous and healthy as adults. A well-feed angelfish will be far less likely to nibble on a coral or crustacean and discover a tasty new treat. A minimum tank size of 50 gallons is recommended for this species. Angelfish are more sensitive to unhealthy water parameters than many marine species. Due diligence should be practiced in maintaining clean, clear water. Under premium conditions, you can expect these fish to live up to 12 years of age.

This is an omnivorous species. Like many angelfish, this species diet changes considerably between juveniles and adults. Juveniles feed primarily on plankton. Newly hatched brine shrimp mixed with increasing amounts of flake, frozen or freeze-dried food will help them become accustomed to nonliving food items. An adult's diet consists of algae, worms and small crustaceans and clams in their natural habitat. A high-quality marine preparation specially formulated for marine angels will make an ideal staple. Their diet can be further supplemented with freshly chopped crustacean, mollusks, dried or frozen algae and table vegetables such as spinach, zucchini, and yellow squash. Once again, an abundance of cured live rock will help ensure their nutritional needs are properly addressed.

The males and females of this species are virtually identical in size and coloration. This may be because they are protogynous synchronous hermaphrodites. All fish will initially develop into females. Should prorogation of the species demand it, the largest most dominant female will transform into a male. Several juveniles introduced into an aquarium together will result in a single male and a harem of females. This fish has been known to breed in captivity but reported incidents are rare.

By Stephen J Broy Technological advancements in the aquarium industry continually redefine the concept of "home aquarium owner." Just twenty years ago not even the biggest public aquarium was capable of keeping jellyfish alive in captivity. Now they make desktop Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums. And why would you want a jellyfish tank? Perhaps you should check out what the translucent bodies of Pet Moon Jellyfish look like under LED lighting. Pet Jellyfish give a whole new meaning to the term exotic pets. Article Source: EzineArticles

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GREEN TERROR CICHLID - Aequidens rivulatus

Green Terror Cichlid - Aequidens rivulatus

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GREEN TERROR CICHLID - An Intro To This Amazing Cichlid Fish!

Photo  by veress_szilard 

The Green terror cichlid (Andinoacara (Aequidens) rivulatus) is frequently confused with Blue Acara, somehow there is a slight difference in their features which is, green terror has a more pronounced bump on its forehead when they mature. They are also more aggressive than the other fish that is why it is important to keep them with varieties that can fend themselves.

They are widely spread in South America, Ecuador, and Peru. They are commonly found in still and sluggish waters of the local river basins. Generally speaking, when looking at the side angle of a terror the shape is obviously oval, in the front angle, it is evident that this variety has a very broad forehead area and gradually decreases down to its rear. The mature male, however, tends to develop a noticeable hump and may also reach a length of about 8 inches in its regular size.

It is the male in this variety that is catchy to the eye of the hobbyist possessing a body color of a brilliant and bright greenish white. The tails especially are very attractive that is demonstrated with reticulation and fringed in bright red color... Really magnificent! The female is rather not much of a head turner with drab olive green color and does not have the favorable metallic feature of the male. Somehow some females may possess a blue-green color of its chin.

Green terror cichlid is somehow a hardy fish and may be quite easy to care for especially when needs are met. They are basically omnivorous and will always eat on anything and may relish any live foods. They thrive well on large tanks with copious caves and rocks to hide in such as driftwood, rockwood, and live plants as well. Live plants though may be uprooted because of their agility and aggressiveness. When young they may be placed together with other community cichlids nevertheless as they mature they tend to live up to its name the "green terror" and will seemingly terrorize all except for the largest fish in the tank. Needless to say, they are best kept in a species tank.

The adequate tank size of this variety should be approximately 48 inches with water that is soft to hardy and a pH level of 6.5 to 7.5 and kept in a constant temperature of 72 - 82 degrees Fahrenheit or 20 - 24 degrees Celsius. Like any other cichlids, by providing them with the proper filtration, temperature, and frequent water change will live healthily and vigorously.

Breeding a green terror cichlid, always choose the most robust fishes and paired with an unrelated juvenile and raise to sexual maturity about three inches. They breed in a typical Aequidens way, meaning they will find an open water location and spawns in a flat stone. Unlike other cichlids that hide their nest, the green terror does not. Check more on the breeding methods of green terror cichlid in order to spawn one of your own.

By Lacey Bryant Lacey Bryant is a cichlid enthusiast and author, who has been caring for cichlids for over 15 years. She has been breeding Cichlids for years and it has become her passion to share her knowledge about their proper care. Article Source: EzineArticles

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MILK SNAKES and KING SNAKES Make Good Pets For Beginners

Have you been considering purchasing a snake as a pet? There are many different types of snakes available at specialty pet stores. But, if this is your first pet snake, you might want to consider purchasing a king snake or a milk snake. There are numerous sub-species that fall into these two closely-related snakes; this means you will have a variety of different colors and patterns to choose from. In addition, these snakes are generally non-aggressive and easy to care for.

Getting to Know the King Snake and the Milk Snake

Red milk snake (Lampropeltis triangulum syspila)
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

King snakes and milk snakes are interesting creatures for a number of different reasons. For starters, the colors and patterns found on some of these snakes can look very similar coral snakes, which are very venomous snakes with yellow and red bands of color. In fact, the only real difference in appearance between a coral snake and a king or milk snake with the same coloring is the act that king and milk snakes have a line of black touching the red bands.

Another interesting characteristic of king snakes and milk snakes is the fact that they actually eat other snakes as well as lizards, rodents, amphibians, and birds. Of course, as the owner of a king snake or milk snake, you would not feed other snakes to your pet. Not only would this be quite expensive for you, but it would also be potentially dangerous to your snake as well. Nonetheless, when surviving in the wild, king snakes and milk snakes can actually eat snakes that are larger than they are. In fact, it is not uncommon for some to regularly eat rattlesnakes in the wild. Therefore, you should never put more than one king snake or milk snake in the same aquarium, as one will be certain to make a meal out of the other.

Housing a King Snake or a Milk Snake

Eastern Kingsnake, Lampropeltis getula getula
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Since king snakes and milk snakes can reach six to seven feet in length, it is important to select a terrarium that is large enough for them to grow and to rest comfortably inside. When they are young, a 10-gallon tank may be sufficient. A full-grown snake, however, should be provided a 60-gallon tank in which it can stretch and move about, as king snakes and milk snakes tend to be quite active.

When selecting a terrarium for a king snake or a milk snake, it is also very important to select one that can be secured tightly. These snakes have a reputation for getting out of their cages and for squeezing through even the smallest places. So, spend a little extra on a terrarium with a top that can be latched.

Maintaining the proper temperature is also important when it comes to keeping your snake healthy. Milk snakes and king snakes generally like their cages to be around 76 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, but the temperature should drop down to about 70 to 74 degrees Fahrenheit at night. At the same time, you should take measures to provide different temperatures within the cage so your snake can move from one area to the next in order to regulate its temperature.

It is important to note that the needs of various varieties of milk snakes and king snakes can differ. Therefore, you should be certain to research the specific type of snake you are considering purchasing in order to make certain you set its home up properly and give it the best chance of living a long and healthy life.

By CS Swarens - Article Source: EzineArticles

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How to Create and Care for a CORAL AQUARIUM

A mass of Plerogyra sp. coral in a tropical reef tank at the Seattle Aquarium. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Many aquarium owners crave to someday own a saltwater tank displaying numerous kinds of coral. This may be achieved is fast easy steps if you use coral starter kits to grow your own coral. This is recommended over buying coral from a store. By growing your own, you ensure it is properly acclimated to your tank. Setting up and caring for the coral aquarium, or reef aquarium is a task that requires a bit of knowledge before starting. There are some steps to take when setting up a new coral aquarium. The process may seem to take a long time, and because of this, many people opt to use fake coral instead. However, the time spent waiting will be well worth it when you are later able to display your own coral aquarium. If you follow some simple steps and have the patience for about 12 weeks, you will be able to create and own your piece of underwater paradise.

To begin, the first thing to do is assemble your aquarium. Find a spot in the home that you wish to have it displayed. Follow through with the set up as you would a freshwater tank. When you are ready to add the water to the tank, follow these simple steps. First, pour the sand into the bottom of the tank. Add dechlorinated water to the tank. Next, add the salt and make sure it is mixed until the specific gravity measures 1.205. After the water and salt are added, arrange your live rock as desired and install the heater and the hood of the tank. After doing these things, you must then wait 4 weeks to move ahead.

After the four weeks has passed, you will then add your first living creatures to the tank. It is best to add fish later, and slowly as to make sure the salt balance in the tank is correct and remains that way. At this time, you can add a variety of snails or crabs if you wish to have them part of your tank. You will also need to install a protein skimmer. The tank should be functioning as if it were full of fish. Make sure the filters are working properly and the lighting is right. Remember not to leave the light on for more than 10 to 12 hours a day as it may promote algae growth. After adding some snails or crabs, wait another 2 weeks before proceeding.

Now at week 6, you will add your first pieces of coral. There are many types of coral used in saltwater coral aquariums. Some of the most common are Button Polyp, Yellow Polyp, Hairy Mushroom Coral and Bullseye Mushroom Coral. Make sure when adding your coral, it is attached to the live rock at the bottom of the tank. Wait another 2 weeks. Don't get frustrated... you're almost there! During the eighth week, you can add Aquacultured Coral such as Pumping Xenia, Starburst Polyps and Spaghetti Finger Leather Coral to name a few. Place these corals into the live rock as you did with the previous set of coral.

Now you have succeeded in creating your reef aquarium. During the course of the 10 to 12-week mark, you may begin adding your fish to your underwater world. It may seem a long drawn out process to get a coral aquarium up and running, but the time and hard work will pay off for years to come. Creating and caring for your coral aquarium will bring you much enjoyment and a wonderful sense of accomplishment for creating a spectacular coral aquarium.

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