Live aquarium plants and fish have a beautiful and subtle relationship, with each meeting the other's needs. Extra oxygen, protection and food are just a few of the benefits plants can offer to your fish and aquarium. It's not always easy to decide where to begin when you have decided that you want to plant in your aquarium. just like your fish, live aquarium plants have needs of their own, which can vary widely from species to species. So just what constitutes an easily kept aquarium plant? If you are looking for a kind of plant that will not be too demanding, then try to find plants which do not need too much heat, light and nutrient supplementation. At the other end of the scale, a heavily planted and exotic tank can begin to take as much work as an exotic tropical marine aquarium.
The first step is to identify which plants you could use in your tank or aquarium. Your fish will have specific needs for temperature for example and so will the plants, the two must be similar or the plants will die. Most plants can take variations in temperature, how much will depend on how widely conditions tended to vary in the world where that plant evolved. Lighting is also important to consider and is perhaps the most crucial aspect of plant keeping, without the right level of light plants will become sick in the same way they do when they do not have all the nutrients they need.
It does pay to do your research. Fortunately, lighting and heating are normally expressed in watts per gallon, so with this in mind, it is normally possible to work out if there is any "common ground" for both the plants and the fish. With lighting in mind, it is helpful to look for bulbs that have an output of 400-450 and 600-650 nanometres; this provides red and blue light needed in photosynthesis. You may find it helpful to use two or more different kinds of lighting to provide both.
Java Fern, Java Moss, Live Mushroom Plant, Anubias, Vallisneria Spiralis are all good example of plants which are easily kept and are ideal for beginners. Try to pick a plant you like the look of and believe you would be comfortable with at the start. When you have found your feet, you can always introduce some more.
Bronze Cory fish is oldest in the catfish family. If you go to any pet store, you will certainly find some variety of this fish there. Experienced fish-keepers love to have at least a couple of them in the community tank. They are industrious, they are small in size and they are good friends of fish-keepers.
Bronze Cory fish were imported from the Caribbean islands at the beginning of the last century. They soon became very popular in the United States because of their variety of colors. They are available in various shades of bronze - natural bronze, with some pinkish or golden shade and sometimes with a blue face. Experienced breeders have developed many different varieties from their original shape and size. They are now available in colors like black, green, orange and even in red. However, there is no change in their care and maintenance.
Bronze Cory fish live for a long time. Usually, they live up to 15 years. Occasionally, they will leave up to 25 years. Surprisingly even at their old age, they are eager to grab food and spend most of their time searching and eating food.
You do not need to make any special efforts for taking their care. The normal conditions of water for other pet fish will be suitable for them. The pH level of water may be in the range of 6-8 while the temperature of the water may be kept around 75 F. They can even tolerate higher temperatures for a short period of time.
You can feet Bronze Cory with the normal food. They can take frozen as well as live and prepared food you buy for other varieties of pet fish. The only thing you should remember is - you should not neglect their needs of food by considering them as scavengers. They will certainly pick up the food particles accumulated at the bottom of the tank but that may not be sufficient for their nutrition.
While feeding them, there is a possibility that the other varieties of fish in the tank will grab the food first and they will not be able to get their share. There is one solution to this problem - you can use a small pipe to drop the pellets of food at the bottom of the tank so that Bronze Cories can pick up such food easily.
Sometimes you will find them winking at you! This is a peculiar behavior associated with the Bronze Cory. There is a reason behind this. When they jump at the surface of the water for grabbing some air, and they will go back again to the bottom and wink for some time which is helpful for gulping the air.
They prefer to live in groups and you should keep them with at least half a dozen other individuals. They may not be happy when they are kept singly or in pairs. It will create stress and shorten their life.
You can easily spawn Bronze Cory fish. If you find the females slightly bigger in size, and the males a bit slim with pointed fins, you can assume that they are ready for spawning. You can separate them for at least a week. During this time you should feed them with good food like blood-worms or brine shrimps. You can set up another small tank for shifting them. After a week, you can put them in this tank. You should add an air-stone so that you will have bubbles in the tank. You should also have a powerful filter for cleaning the water.
The female will use her fins to store the eggs. The eggs are fertilized there. Thereafter, the female goes away to lay its eggs at the bottom. She will also prefer big leaves of plants. She will lay at least 200 eggs. After some time you will find that the males are remaining at the bottom of the tank and they are breathing very heavily. This is an indication that the spawning is done. At this point, you should remove the males and females from the tank.
You should carefully observe the eggs and remove the fungus on them carefully. In about a week, the eggs will hatch. The small ones will be at the bottom of the eggs for some time, absorbing the liquid substance from the eggs. The young ones will also try to eat critters which live at the bottom of the tank.
The young ones will grow very quickly and they will be fully grown up in four weeks. Then you can shift them in the common tank and once they grow up to one inch in size, you can start finding another tank for them!
Many pet shops will be able to trade them for fish food or tank supplies. So you can also make some money to support your hobby.
By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. Article Source: EzineArticles
Peacock cichlid fish are some of the most beautiful fish in existence. They sport a great variety of colors and average between four and six inches in length. If they are properly taken care of, they can live for up to twelve years. These unique fish originally come from Lake Malawi which is located in East Africa.
There have been ten different types of peacock cichlid identified so far, but it is thought that there are more yet to be discovered. The known types are Blue Peacock, Sunshine Peacock, African Butterfly Peacock, Auloncara Fort Maguire Peacock, Auloncara Blue Gold Peacock, Flavescent Peacock, Rubin Red Peacock, Baensch's Peacock, Maulana Bicolor Peacock, and Nkhomo Benga Peacock.
Peacock cichlids are freshwater fish that prefer to live in caves or rocky ridges that are below the water. You can keep these interesting fish at home as pets also. The aquarium requirements for them are as follows: A tank size of at least forty-five gallons with a lot of rocks that are placed in such a way as to form cave-like areas or cave decorations that they can go into. You should also use something to keep the water alkaline. Sand substrate is a good choice. This will also help with the breeding process.
They prefer their water to be alkaline and hard like the waters of Lake Malawi. The PH level should be between seven and a half and nine. You can also put some plants in your tank, but be sure that they are very sturdy plants that can withstand the hard water. The water temperature should stay around seventy-eight degrees Fahrenheit.
Peacock cichlids are omnivorous and therefore should be fed a diet of both meat and vegetables. They will readily eat pellet food, but also like bloodworms, mosquito larvae, snails, and crustaceans. Whenever new fry is born, they can be given fine flake food or brine shrimp that are freshly hatched.
Peacock cichlids are less aggressive and milder mannered than the other cichlid groups. They can be put in tanks together as well as with some other types of peaceful fish. The ratio of female to a male should be about two or three females to one male. These fish have an interesting way of breeding. They are classified as ovophile mouth breeders. This means that the entire process of breeding, from fertilization to incubation to hatching of the eggs will happen inside the female's mouth.
The male peacock cichlid fish will first dig a hole in the sand substrate. The female lays the eggs inside this hole. She will then take the eggs into her mouth where she will keep them for the next three or four weeks. She will not eat during this time period.
By David Oc To learn more about cichlid fish, go to the Lifestyles100 website or pick up the Nook book, Cichlid Fish - The Wonderful World of Cichlid Care" at Barns and Noble. Article Source: EzineArticles
Male seahorses are pouch brooders (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Seahorses are cataloged in the genus Hippocampus. The members of this genus belong to the family Syngnathidae. This family contains over 50 individual species including all seahorses and their close relatives the pipefish. Seahorses are found in shallow waters of tropical and temperate zones around the world.
The name Hippocampus is first recorded in Greek poetry. Hippos mean horse and campus translate to sea monster. Ancient Greeks and Romans believed seahorses were a gift from the sea god Poseidon/Neptune. Despite their fragility, seahorses were perceived to be a symbol of strength and power. There are three species of seahorse found in the Mediterranean Sea. These are the Hippocampus hippocampus or long snout, theHippocampus brevirostris or short snout, and the Hippocampus fuscuswhich emigrated from its native habitat in the Red Sea. Many Europeans thought these equine-like creatures bore the souls of recently departed sailors, providing them safe passage to the underworld and protecting over them until their souls meant their destiny. Seahorse fossils have been discovered dating as far back as 13 million years. Here we will focus both the seahorse collectively and one specific species Hippocampus kuda also known as the common seahorse.
The common seahorse is indigenous to the Indo-Pacific. Twenty-three countries have confirmed the presence of H. Kuda ranging as far south as Australia to as far north as China.
Seahorses have been procured by Chinese herbologists for their purported healing qualities for centuries. Native populations throughout Indonesia and the Central Philippines also use seahorses as a component in herbalistic medicines. It is estimated that up to 20 millions seahorses a year are harvested to support this thriving industry. Overfishing has driven seahorse populations to the verge of becoming endangered species. The common seahorse is currently listed as a vulnerable species by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, also known as the Washington Convention). CITES has regulated the import and export of seahorses in this region of the world since 2004. Unfortunately, Indonesia, Japan and South Korea do not recognize the trade rules put in place by the Washington Convention.
Seahorses are a boney fish. They are devoid of scales. They have a thin layer of skin stretched over a series of bony plates arranged in rings. Each individual species has a specific number of these rings. Seahorses have a cornet on their heeds. These cornets are distinctive to each seahorse. No two are identical much like a human fingerprint.
These creatures swim vertically, a trait specific to seahorses. They are poor swimmers who move very slowly in the water. Propulsion is achieved by the rapid flutter of the dorsal fin on their backs. They maneuver with the use of their pectoral fins located behind their eyes. They do not possess a caudal (tail) fin. In its place, there is a prehensile tail which they warp around stationary objects to anchor themselves.
In an aquarium, seahorses must be provided with objects to anchor themselves to. Coral and small branches will suffice nicely. These are timid creatures that should never be housed with even moderately aggressive species. They are easily stressed. Prolonged periods of stress will lower the efficiency of their immune system making them more susceptible to disease. Gobies and other docile mannered fish will make suitable tank mates. Seahorses are primarily bottom dwellers. They will peacefully coexist with ornamental crustaceans and other bottom feeders. This makes them the perfect compliment to a marine reef aquarium.
The amateur aquarist should not attempt to raise seahorses. You will only accomplish the unnecessary death of a rapidly vanishing species. Seahorses are only recommended for the more experienced saltwater aficionado.
All seahorses are carnivorous. They use their snouts to suck in zooplankton as a source of nutrition. Upon initial introduction to a home aquarium, seahorses may only eat live food offerings. Rotifers, mysis and brine shrimp should help persuade them to start feeding. With patience, they can be weaned off of live food. These are slow feeders and must not be made to compete for their food.
In recent decades the captive breeding of seahorses has become increasingly widespread. The common seahorse is among these commercially raised specimens. Farm raised seahorses may already be acclimated to non-living food offerings. These are commonly more expensive than wild caught seahorses. However, you have a specimen that will not have to endure the shock and trauma of being yanked out of its natural habitat and placed in the confines of an aquarium. Farm raised marine species are more disease resistant and have a much higher survivability rate. And you will not be a participant in the further depletion of an already threatened species.
If you find the idea of raising seahorses intriguing, then you should check out the hottest new trend in the saltwater aquarium industry, Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums. Keeping Moon Jellyfish & Pet Jellies is the hottest new trend among saltwater aquarists.
A terrarium is similar to an aquarium except that it isn't full of water and fish. It's a tank made of glass or plastic with a wire mesh lid. The mesh allows air to come in and keeps the reptile from escaping.
Reptiles are cold-blooded, unable to make their own body heat, which is why it is hard for them to move around if the temperature isn't right in their environment. Reptiles lay eggs to hatch their babies. Unlike human babies, which are dependent at birth, reptile babies are born ready to care for themselves.
A successful terrarium is set up with the proper heat source for temperature perfection. A thermostat will ensure the correct temperature at all times. Reptiles need a basking lamp to sunbathe and a light tube for ultraviolet rays.
It sounds expensive and complicated to a beginner, and it very well may be depending on what your idea of expensive is. But once your terrarium is set up, the biggest hurdle is being able to afford the proper food and bedding. The expense of bedding is reduced if you buy two pieces of indoor/outdoor carpeting to allow one to be cleaned while you use the other for your pet.
There are several ways to set up your terrarium, depending on the needs of your reptile. The desert terrarium will need coverage over the inside bottom floor. Most people choose sand or gravel for the desert appeal. Plants will add a hiding place for your reptile and helps increase the natural look and feel of their environment.
You must provide water even in a desert setting for three reasons---drinking, bathing, and moisture. Even in the desert a certain amount of water is necessary. It should be kept clean and accessible at all times for your pet's comfort and to ward off disease from unclean water. Sometimes a lizard or snake reptile will prefer a tropical forest terrarium setting. You'll have to make sure you regulate the day and night temperatures. Investing in some sort of timer will make this less of a chore and safer for your pet.
The tropical forest is kept damp at all times. Provide a layer of wood chips and maybe some moss to hold the moisture. Keep some sort of trees to allow your reptiles to climb among the branches.
Turtles and some snakes require a habitat that is part land and part water. You must purchase a heater designed to control the water temperature. Adding rocks allows the reptile access out of the water when needed. The rocks should be free of sharp edges to avoid injury to the reptile as it navigates through its home. Place a fluorescent light over the dry areas to allow sunbathing.
The last habitat choice is called a savanna. You can consider it a medium ground between the dry desert setting and the very humid tropical setting. It's also cooler than either and stays only slightly damp. Shady areas should be included for the pet's comfort. Plastic plants discourage the reptile from eating the scenery. Coarse gravel is allowed in the savanna setting.
Open Brain Coral, Metallic Green Species: Trachyphyllia geoffroyi (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
A customer who was considering purchasing an open brain coral (Trachyphyllia geoffroyi) from us called me up to ask me if he would need to feed this animal. He said that he had seen a lot of contradictory information on the Internet about whether or not open brain corals need targeted supplemental feedings or not. Given our focus on brain corals this week, I am going to answer his question here so that everyone knows what it is we recommend.
First off, I thanked this customer for doing his research before acquiring the animal. I can't emphasize how important it is that you research every animal thoroughly before you purchase it in order to make sure the animal is compatible with your set-up and that you are prepared to meet the animal's needs in terms of husbandry. Regarding the feeding of open brain corals, you will see a variety of opinions ranging from "never feed an open brain coral directly" to "feed it daily." We definitely recommend target feeding any brain coral. Whether you have one of the many Favia species or a colorful Trachophyllia, brain corals, in general, do much better in reef tanks with supplemental feedings.
But where is the mouth? "Wait a second," you say. "Brains have mouths?"
While that sounds like a campy science fiction movie from the 50s, the take-home point is valid. Brain corals do have mouths, and they do need to be fed. Most brain corals are nocturnal feeders, and they change their appearance dramatically at night by partially deflating their tissue and extending feeding tentacles located around each individual mouth. Some brain corals have many mouths while others are sold as pieces of a larger colony (e.g. Lobophyllia) and usually have only one mouth.
Regardless of the number of mouths, you want to target feed these animals two or three times per week. Try small pieces of meaty marine flesh, brine shrimp, baby brine shrimp, Cyclopeeze, or our own Blue Zoo Mix. You can soak the food in water with a vitamin supplement like Selcon and then use a turkey baster or the Kent Sea Squirt to target feed each open brain coral. After the coral gets acclimated to aquarium life, it will almost always extend its tentacles whenever these foods are present-even during the day.
With the proper husbandry, open brain corals will grow quickly and remain healthy in most systems.
Blue Zoo Aquatics was formed in 2001 as a custom aquarium design, manufacture, installation and maintenance company which provided its services in and around Los Angeles, California. The company founders and key personnel had either a background in marine biology or had spent their entire career in the saltwater aquarium industry.
Customers who bought a custom aquarium were also frequently asking us to provide livestock and aquarium supplies, so we created bluezooaquatics.com to showcase our entire product offering and make it available to everyone.
Today, Blue Zoo Aquatics has evolved into the complete source for all of your aquarium needs. Although we can still design and build you a beautiful custom aquarium, we are also proud to offer one of the largest selections of livestock on the web as well as a wide variety of quality aquarium supplies.
Our business has expanded, but Blue Zoo is still owned and operated by the same team of expert aquarists that have dedicated their lives to helping people have fun and succeed with saltwater aquariums. - http://www.bluezooaquatics.com
Gourami is a tropical fish living in fresh water. It comes from a family called 'Labyrinth'. The main characteristic of this family is the fish have an organ for breathing. This organ is connected to their gill chamber.
This feature of Labyrinth family is very unique and it helps them to take oxygen from the air if the water is not having a sufficient level of oxygen. So fish in this family can breathe even by coming out of the water for some time.
Gourami fish originated from Asia and Africa are there are about 15 different species of Gourami which are available for the fish keepers. The original amongst them is called 'Goramy' and it originated from Indonesia and China.
This 'Goramy' fish is also called 'Giant Gourami' because it grows very big and its length can exceed two feet! If you want to keep this 'Goramys' in your aquarium, you must have a very large area or you should create a big pond outside your house to keep them. They can live up to 25 years or even longer so once you keep them; they will be with you for a long time.
Then there is another species called the kissing Gourami. They are somehow opposed to the giant 'Goramy' because they grow up to 8 inches. Another species called 'talking Gourami' is even smaller. They can grow only up to 2 inches. They are called 'Talking Gourami' because they make a sound when they come to the surface to take oxygen from the air.
There is one more type available to fish keepers, which is called the Moonlight Gourami. They are silvery blue in color and their fins are like a thread.
Most of the Gourami species require similar conditions for their living. They are comfortable in the range of 75-80° F. They love to live in slightly acidic water with a pH level of around 6.0 to 6.5
You should have a lot of plants in the aquarium when you keep Gourami fish. The plants should be sturdy because the size of the fish is big. You can use fine or medium substrate at the bottom of the tank.
Gouramis should be provided with a well-balanced nutrition. They will eat whatever is offered to them and they can survive with any type of food but you should plan their food well to keep them healthy. Keeping dry food as a base, you can feed them with live food occasionally. You should also provide fresh vegetables and all sorts of worms. In the absence of appropriate food, they will not look healthy and they will not live for a long time.
All the species of Gourami fish are peaceful in nature and they can get along with other members of the community quite well. You should keep them with other fish of the same size so that they will not be any fights. You can also keep same species of Gourami in the aquarium but as they are bigger in size, they will not be able to live comfortably with the growth in their numbers.
One more important characteristic about Gourami is - if they are of the same species, they may have territorial ambitions. So they will fight with each other for their territories. If you have sufficient plants in your aquarium, these plants can act both as a barrier and a boundary which can keep the fish contended with one area.
By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. Article Source: EzineArticles
