Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on BETTA FISH Explained

Siamese fighting fish, B. splendens, is often referred to as betta in the U.S.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw-dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!

Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta is an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So let's get started...

1. How Do You Stop Betta Fish From fighting?

This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!

In my experience, I've found a few ways that work...

One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to overdo it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the warpath!

A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.

Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together, this will reduce fighting astronomically.

Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off, but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!

2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?

Yes yo,u can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above, having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.

3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish

I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...

You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.

Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.

However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.

4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta fish?

Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...

- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.

- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.

- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!

- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.

- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.

- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!

I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.

5. What Should I Feed My Betta Fish?

Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:

- Brine shrimp

- Daphnia

- Frozen Bloodworms

- Blackworms (Tubifex) worms

- Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops

- Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry

- Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)

I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.

6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?

Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.

Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...

7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?

There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:

- Betta Splendens (the most common type)

- Betta Bellica

- Betta Coccina

- Betta Picta

Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:

- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)

- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)

- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)

- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)

- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)

- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)

Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)

8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?

Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!

However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.

9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank Be At?

Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.

It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.

10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?

Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.

I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry is able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.

That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

By Simon Anderson - Article Source: EzineArticles

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BEKKO KOI

Bekko Koi

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Preparing Your KOI POND For Major Storms

Pond Lane Little Lepton before the storm (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

No matter the area in which you live in, you are bound to come into contact with at least one type of severe weather throughout the year. 

Events such as Hurricane Katrina have shown us that having an emergency plan could mean the difference between saving your pond and total destruction.  

Smaller Storms

Preparing for smaller storms, and storms that you have more notice on is somewhat easier than preparing for a large storm. Taking a few simple steps will help guide your pond through the storm.

1) Stop feeding your fish. Your pond contains enough natural food sources that your Koi will not starve for a long amount of time. If the storm does any damage to your filtration process, not feeding you fish will cut down on the chance of any ammonia problems later on.

2) Do as big of water change as possible to your pond. In the case that something goes really wrong and you are unable to attend your pond right away, your Koi will have the freshest water available to them. Also, leave out several inches of water to make up for coming rainfall. This way, there will be less chance of your pond overflowing. If you have some type of drainage system, make sure to clear it of any debris so it will work at it’s full potential. If you pond is ground level and high waters are expected, you can add protection by sand bagging around the area. If nothing else, this may keep your koi confined within the area if flooding occurs. 

3) Net over your pond to protect it from any flying debris. Using the same net you use during the fall to keep leaves out should suffice, as long as you properly secure it down. 

4) Remove anything that could potentially blow over, away, or fall into your pond. A good rule of thumb, if you can push it over, so can the wind.  Items that could blow away should be completely removed from the area and placed indoors.

Large Storms

Large storms like the recent hurricanes prevent any type of preventative measures from being successful. The only real way to save your pond in these types of events is completely remove your fish from the pond.

First, it is always a good idea to have all the equipment needed to transport your Koi on hand. If you are having an emergency with your Koi, you may or may not have time to make a trip to your local pet store to gather what you need. The equipment needed to bag and transport Koi is small, and easily stored when not in use.

Bags- You must have the proper bags on hand to transport Koi. Do not attempt to transport your Koi in the trash or regular plastic bags, as they are not designed for this, and may cause damage to your Koi. Unless you remembered to keep the bags you brought your koi home in originally, you will have to make a trip to your local pet store. Make sure to get bags sizable enough to hold your Koi.

Rubber Bands- You will need quite a few rubber bands for each bag you buy. Make sure that your rubber bands are good quality, as you do not want the pressure from the water to pop the rubber band in the middle of the transport.

Net- You will need to have a net sizeable enough to compete with your Koi. You will never need the net to pull the Koi out of the water with, but you will need it to lead and direct your Koi into the place you want them. Nets can potentially damage your Koi, especially as the larger they get.

Paint Bucket- A paint bucket is a better option for catching your Koi, as they cannot hurt your Koi like a net can. Make sure that your bucket is sizable enough to hold your Koi.

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Constant AQUARIUM FISH DEATHS: causes and solutions

Photo  by Fifi Banana 

A fish death aquarium tank is one of the common challenges faced by aquarists. There is a number of factors that could be responsible for the deaths experienced. These are outlined briefly below.

·                     The aquarist selection of fish.
·                     The removal and packing of the fish from the pet shop
·                     Transport time and period and the handling of the fish in transit
·                     Quarantine procedure.
·                     Adjustment and adaptation into the new community or environment by the new fish.

When buying fish from the pet shop always spend some time at the place to inquire about the life history and habits of the new purchase. You can then make a selection from a collection of the same species. Never buy the last specimen in reserve at any shop because if it had been a good specimen, you would not have met it there in the first instance.

Always form the habit of making your fish purchase during the cool periods of the day, preferably before 12 noon or after 4.30pm.

These are the only periods I can guarantee for fish comfort. This restriction is borne out of my observation that most pet shops and aquarists alike do not seem to care about insulation of the fish against temperature fluctuations after gassing them in a polythene.

When making your fish selection from the pet shop be sure the attendant has the expertise to pick fish out from a selection. This you can know through the swiftness with which your choice fish is removed out of the selection.

Reject a fish that has been chased around, gasping for breath... It is a week already! Chances are that it gives up with the further stress that accompanies the transportation of the fish.

Make sure that your new purchase is quarantined. That's a single factor that affects fish survival as pets.

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THE BIRCH AQUARIUM

"Tidepool Plaza at Birch Aquarium" Licensed via Wikimedia Commons.

Smaller and more intimate than other aquariums, the Birch Aquarium is one place where you can get close to all of the animals, and still take your time to simply enjoy being there.

Due to its intimacy, adults and children alike are energized by the aquarium.  You can watch an octopus flow up and down the glass, or watch a jellyfish move slowly through the water.  This is an excellent thrill, for everyone in your family.

The most popular exhibit at the Birch Aquarium is the seahorse exhibit.  It offers many different species, from the tiny miniature seahorses that are under an inch tall, to the taller and more amazing sea dragons.

The many interactive exhibits at the aquarium will help you learn the history of oceanography.  By taking a simulated trip in a deepwater submersible, you'll learn the wonders and oddities of the deep ocean, even though it may move a bit too slow for smaller children.  Children of all ages enjoy the exhibits that illustrate how the ocean products appear in everyday items.

If you are planning to take pictures of the exhibits, be aware of the glass and the reflections.  If you can, move in close (around a foot away) and set your flash to a 45-degree angle.  Make sure that you don't get too wrapped up in taking photo's inside the aquarium - as you may end up missing the show going on outside.

If you are visiting La Jolla as a vacation or if you live there, the Birch Aquarium is worth a visit.  There are some amazing exhibits here, with something for everyone.  You can spend hours and hours here, making it one place you shouldn't hesitate to check out.

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AFRICAN BUTTERFLY FISH - Anomalochromis thomasi

African Butterfly Fish - Anomalochromis thomasi

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DUCKWEED - Lemna minor

Duckweed - Lemna minor

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Introduction to RED CICHLIDS Types

Red Empress (Protomelas taeniolatus) fish, (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Red Cichlids! This is a term you might hear around the place and to be honest I really don't like the general use of it. I have noticed that people are too general these days and are taking shortcuts to describe their fish, for example calling them "red Cichlids".

Shortening the name for a fish is a really bad habit to get into as this can easily lead to confusion especially for beginners. If I was to ask another aquarium hobbyist as to what sort of fish they own and they answered 'red cichlids' it would give me no information as to what type of fish they actually own, and here's why, Red Cichlids could refer to any of the following, just to name a few;

· Red Devil Cichlid (American species)

· Red Forest Jewel Cichlid (African species)

· Red Parrot Cichlid (American species)

· Red Peacock Cichlid (African species)

· Red Zebra Cichlid (African species)

· Red Terror Cichlid (American species)

· Red Empress Cichlid (African species)

As you can see above there are quite a few different types of Red Cichlids around (more than what's listed here) and not only that, they come from both America and Africa, learning the difference between these two major lines of Cichlids is a very useful skill to have to be that water parameter differ greatly in areas like Temperature, pH and general Water Hardness, any American species of Cichlid will usually have much softer water than any African Cichlid as well as having a much lower pH.

If you really want to get some different color into your aquarium and are keen on a splash of red be sure to know the origin of the fish before you buy it, there are a few ways to do this, some harder than others however there is information out there that will teach you everything you need to know about how to work out where a fish originates from all the way to suitability to your new or existing African Tank and even if a fish you would like to get will suit your individual needs.

There is no question that there are some really stunning red cichlids out there just waiting to be bought. The key here is knowing exactly what type of fish to buy.

So remember, always try to do your best at sticking to the correct name of the fish you own, shortening the name of your fish can make a situation very confusing as shown above, there are so many different types of these wonderful fish that you wouldn't want anyone to think you have a type of fish you actually don't.

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Breeding DISCUS FISH - Do's and Don'ts

Symphysodon (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When you are thinking about breeding discus fish, there are certain things that you need to know in order to make sure that the breeding process is a successful experience for you and the fish. Discus fish are great fish to breed and you can also earn a little extra money from selling the fry, but you need to know a lot about fish before you begin. But once you have done your research on this species, then you will be ready to think about breeding fish. Here are a few dos and don't of breeding discus fish.

DO: make sure that you invest in a bigger fish tank if you have a small aquarium. Discus requires a minimum of a twenty-gallon tank, however, twenty-seven gallons is ideal for breeding discus fish.

DON'T: forget that you will need a male and a female discus fish to begin breeding, it might seem obvious but a lot of people tend to overlook this fact!

DO: provide your fish with an area for them to lay their eggs. This should be a flat, vertical surface at the bottom of the tank such as an overturned empty plant pot.

DON'T: overfeed your fish. Make sure that you still feed your fish the recommended daily amount of food, do not overfeed them because this can result in illness and even death in some cases.

DO: give your fish a wide and varied diet, when fish are breeding it is important that they have a variety in order for them to begin mating. This can include discus food pellet and live and freeze-dried food such as bloodworms.

DON'T: leave food debris on the bottom of the tank, always make sure to scoop out any leftover food because this can dirty the water and cause bacteria to grow, causing your discus to become ill and hamper their breeding efforts.

DO: maintain a good water pH level and temperature; this is imperative for good fish health and breeding environments. Water should be kept at a pH level of 6.5 and a temperature of 86 degrees when breeding.

DON'T: become disheartened if your fish do not mate straight away, these things take time and you need to be patient and try again if the first time is unsuccessful, and never force the fish.

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Taking Care of AFRICAN DWARF FROG - Top 3 Frequently Asked Questions

 (Hymenochirus boettgeri) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

African dwarf frogs are rewarding to keep and they can live a long time, up to 7 years. They're not a difficult pet to take care of, but there can be some confusion about what's best for them. Here are some answers to a few of the most commonly asked questions:

1. Can an African dwarf frog live with fish?

One of the most common questions is if an ADF can be kept with fish. And the general answer is, no, they shouldn't be. Frogs are generally incompatible with fish because of the conflicting care requirements. One of the main reasons is that feeding would be an issue because frogs eat from the bottom of the tank and they can be slow in finding their food. The fish would have no problem eating whatever food you mean for your frog to have, and because of that, the frog could die of starvation. Keeping your frog in a tank of its own is better all around.

2. What should I feed an ADF?

What an ADF should be fed is always a frequent question. One of the best foods you can feed your frog is frozen bloodworms. This food is full of protein, and frogs can easily find and eat it. Another option to consider is soft pellets made for aquatic frogs or turtles. Pellets are nutritious and are easy to feed since they sink to the bottom of the tank. Some foods you should avoid feeding are freeze-dried food and flakes. They tend to expand in your frog's stomach and can cause health problems.

3. How can I tell if a frog is male or female?

Another common question is how to tell the gender. Until ADFs are mature, it's nearly impossible to tell. Once mature, male frogs tend to be fairly skinny and have a light-colored bump behind their forearms. Females are usually fatter and do not have the bumps. Also, most mature males "sing" at night and females don't.

African dwarf frogs make great pets and are fun to watch. Taking proper care of them so that they live in an optimal environment doesn't have to be difficult.

For the past several years, Angela Marie has had multiple aquariums which house both fish and African dwarf frogs. ADFs are one of her favorite aquatic pets and she loves taking care of them and educating other frog owners on their proper care. Article Directory: EzineArticles

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How To DESIGN An AQUARIUM

Photo  by Wicker Paradise 

One of the most attractive conversation pieces that you can really have in your own home is an aquarium. Many satisfied aquarium owners have already discovered the almost magical drawing power that these displays can have on even the most cynical, "seen it all" people. It seems that no matter how world-weary, or tired or stressed out you are, the glorious sight of a tank full of vibrantly colored tropical fish is enough to instantly whisk you away into a mystical underwater world where the world's cares, no matter how urgent or pressing just don't seem to matter very much. Honestly now: who can normally resist the charms of several finned beauties traversing the gentle currents concerned only with their own slow and gentle progress? Even just a few minutes spent in front of an aquarium and your eyes glaze over leaving you far more serene and composed than you were before.

As awesome a sight as a home aquarium system is we are as human beings by nature a picky and hard to please a lot, and we are constantly looking for ways to improve upon things whether it be visually or in terms of functionality. It is wholly understandable therefore that even with an already magnificent display of aquatic creatures in our midst our mind is constantly searching for ways to enhance what is by most accounts already a great thing. It is not uncommon for many home aquarium owners to be deeply into another perhaps less glamorous but certainly no less rewarding hobby: perusing online and printed catalogs of aquarium decorations! I am just kidding of course, but given the passion, fervor and dare I say it, an obsession that some people approach this pursuit, it may as well be its own separate undertaking given the amount of time and money that they spend on it. All this is hopefully not wasted time however as at the end of the road, you can only end up with an aquarium display that is even more magnificent and awe-inspiring than you first planned it to be.

Even if you just take a cursory glance at a typical online aquarium supply website, you may well find yourself being slightly overwhelmed by the amount of aquarium decoration options that are available out in the market today. Many people who have been confronted by this staggering wealth of options will often take the easy way out and merely settle for the obligatory rectangular aquarium. That will do fine for an ordinary aquarium but you did have something more special in mind for you, right? If that is the case you may want to check out the Ocean Treasures Collection Ancient Egypt Aquarium. With a motif that is heavily inspired by early Egyptian civilization artifacts, this unique aquarium is truly a showstopper and just may garner more attention than the fish contained therein! The product's exclusive "dry tube technology" works to conceal all electrical cords and ensure that nothing distracts from the beauty of your water masterpiece.

By Sveinung Skoglund - Article Directory: EzineArticles

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Experience a Great Weekend Adventure at the LONG BEACH AQUARIUM - AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC

Outside of the Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach, CA. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The great aquarium of the Pacific is located in one of the cities of California – the Long Beach. It is considered one of the biggest aquariums in the entire United States. It has an estimated 1,000 species, 19 main habitats and about 32 focus exhibits. When you visit Long Beach and witness the aquarium, it is as if you are in the three regions of the Pacific Ocean at the same time. These regions are the Southern California or the Baja, Northern Pacific and the Tropical Pacific. 

The Long Beach aquarium has a height of 156,735 ft. It has a sweeping, wave-like and curving architecture which is intended to imitate the ocean. It has more than 12,000 marine animals with the inclusion of five classes of whales, dolphins, rays, eleven classes of sharks, and skates such as the manta rays, birds, sea turtles, bears, and over 10,000 mussels. It also has natural exhibit accessories and more than 10,000 individual and artificial coral which represent 58 different species of coral.

The aquarium itself gives the scene trips where anyone can dive into the world of the underwater and witness the virgin places in this Aquarium and feed some of the animals. All of the visitors in the Aquarium are encouraged to witness animal feedings and also learn everything about animals and some of the environmental issues presented in a habitat showcase. 

The Long Beach Aquarium can be found at 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach City, California. It is easy to get there when you have a car you can just park it on the Shoreline Drive located in between Aquarium Way and Chestnut Palace. The parking fee in the Aquarium is only $6 especially if you present a stub of the Aquarium ticket.

Visiting the Aquarium will provide total fun since you can make the trip by taking the Aquabus, a harbor shuttle which connects the Catalina Express, Catalina Landing and the Coastal Hotel.

The Long Beach Aquarium is open every day except on Christmas Day.

New Admission rates (2018) you can find here

The Aquarium is a great destination for a weekend escapade. So, never hesitate to experience the wonders and beauty of marine life in the Long Beach Aquarium. 

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EASY AQUARIUM PLANTS For Your Aquarium

Anubias barteri - (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Live aquarium plants and fish have a beautiful and subtle relationship, with each meeting the other's needs. Extra oxygen, protection and food are just a few of the benefits plants can offer to your fish and aquarium. It's not always easy to decide where to begin when you have decided that you want to plant in your aquarium. just like your fish, live aquarium plants have needs of their own, which can vary widely from species to species. So just what constitutes an easily kept aquarium plant? If you are looking for a kind of plant that will not be too demanding, then try to find plants which do not need too much heat, light and nutrient supplementation. At the other end of the scale, a heavily planted and exotic tank can begin to take as much work as an exotic tropical marine aquarium.

Java Fern (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The first step is to identify which plants you could use in your tank or aquarium. Your fish will have specific needs for temperature for example and so will the plants, the two must be similar or the plants will die. Most plants can take variations in temperature, how much will depend on how widely conditions tended to vary in the world where that plant evolved. Lighting is also important to consider and is perhaps the most crucial aspect of plant keeping, without the right level of light plants will become sick in the same way they do when they do not have all the nutrients they need.

It does pay to do your research. Fortunately, lighting and heating are normally expressed in watts per gallon, so with this in mind, it is normally possible to work out if there is any "common ground" for both the plants and the fish. With lighting in mind, it is helpful to look for bulbs that have an output of 400-450 and 600-650 nanometres; this provides red and blue light needed in photosynthesis. You may find it helpful to use two or more different kinds of lighting to provide both.

Java Fern, Java Moss, Live Mushroom Plant, Anubias, Vallisneria Spiralis are all good example of plants which are easily kept and are ideal for beginners. Try to pick a plant you like the look of and believe you would be comfortable with at the start. When you have found your feet, you can always introduce some more.

Sean Norman - Article Directory: EzineArticles

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BRONZE CORY Fish Are Wonderful Addition to the Aquarium

Photo  by MunstiSue 

Bronze Cory fish is oldest in the catfish family. If you go to any pet store, you will certainly find some variety of this fish there. Experienced fish-keepers love to have at least a couple of them in the community tank. They are industrious, they are small in size and they are good friends of fish-keepers.

Bronze Cory fish were imported from the Caribbean islands at the beginning of the last century. They soon became very popular in the United States because of their variety of colors. They are available in various shades of bronze - natural bronze, with some pinkish or golden shade and sometimes with a blue face. Experienced breeders have developed many different varieties from their original shape and size. They are now available in colors like black, green, orange and even in red. However, there is no change in their care and maintenance.

Bronze Cory fish live for a long time. Usually, they live up to 15 years. Occasionally, they will leave up to 25 years. Surprisingly even at their old age, they are eager to grab food and spend most of their time searching and eating food.

You do not need to make any special efforts for taking their care. The normal conditions of water for other pet fish will be suitable for them. The pH level of water may be in the range of 6-8 while the temperature of the water may be kept around 75 F. They can even tolerate higher temperatures for a short period of time.

You can feet Bronze Cory with the normal food. They can take frozen as well as live and prepared food you buy for other varieties of pet fish. The only thing you should remember is - you should not neglect their needs of food by considering them as scavengers. They will certainly pick up the food particles accumulated at the bottom of the tank but that may not be sufficient for their nutrition.

While feeding them, there is a possibility that the other varieties of fish in the tank will grab the food first and they will not be able to get their share. There is one solution to this problem - you can use a small pipe to drop the pellets of food at the bottom of the tank so that Bronze Cories can pick up such food easily.

Sometimes you will find them winking at you! This is a peculiar behavior associated with the Bronze Cory. There is a reason behind this. When they jump at the surface of the water for grabbing some air, and they will go back again to the bottom and wink for some time which is helpful for gulping the air.

They prefer to live in groups and you should keep them with at least half a dozen other individuals. They may not be happy when they are kept singly or in pairs. It will create stress and shorten their life.

You can easily spawn Bronze Cory fish. If you find the females slightly bigger in size, and the males a bit slim with pointed fins, you can assume that they are ready for spawning. You can separate them for at least a week. During this time you should feed them with good food like blood-worms or brine shrimps. You can set up another small tank for shifting them. After a week, you can put them in this tank. You should add an air-stone so that you will have bubbles in the tank. You should also have a powerful filter for cleaning the water.

The female will use her fins to store the eggs. The eggs are fertilized there. Thereafter, the female goes away to lay its eggs at the bottom. She will also prefer big leaves of plants. She will lay at least 200 eggs. After some time you will find that the males are remaining at the bottom of the tank and they are breathing very heavily. This is an indication that the spawning is done. At this point, you should remove the males and females from the tank.

You should carefully observe the eggs and remove the fungus on them carefully. In about a week, the eggs will hatch. The small ones will be at the bottom of the eggs for some time, absorbing the liquid substance from the eggs. The young ones will also try to eat critters which live at the bottom of the tank.

The young ones will grow very quickly and they will be fully grown up in four weeks. Then you can shift them in the common tank and once they grow up to one inch in size, you can start finding another tank for them!

Many pet shops will be able to trade them for fish food or tank supplies. So you can also make some money to support your hobby.

By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. Article Source: EzineArticles

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PEACOCK CICHLID Fish

Female Aulonocara sp. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Peacock cichlid fish are some of the most beautiful fish in existence. They sport a great variety of colors and average between four and six inches in length. If they are properly taken care of, they can live for up to twelve years. These unique fish originally come from Lake Malawi which is located in East Africa.

There have been ten different types of peacock cichlid identified so far, but it is thought that there are more yet to be discovered. The known types are Blue Peacock, Sunshine Peacock, African Butterfly Peacock, Auloncara Fort Maguire Peacock, Auloncara Blue Gold Peacock, Flavescent Peacock, Rubin Red Peacock, Baensch's Peacock, Maulana Bicolor Peacock, and Nkhomo Benga Peacock.

Peacock cichlids are freshwater fish that prefer to live in caves or rocky ridges that are below the water. You can keep these interesting fish at home as pets also. The aquarium requirements for them are as follows: A tank size of at least forty-five gallons with a lot of rocks that are placed in such a way as to form cave-like areas or cave decorations that they can go into. You should also use something to keep the water alkaline. Sand substrate is a good choice. This will also help with the breeding process.

They prefer their water to be alkaline and hard like the waters of Lake Malawi. The PH level should be between seven and a half and nine. You can also put some plants in your tank, but be sure that they are very sturdy plants that can withstand the hard water. The water temperature should stay around seventy-eight degrees Fahrenheit.

Peacock cichlids are omnivorous and therefore should be fed a diet of both meat and vegetables. They will readily eat pellet food, but also like bloodworms, mosquito larvae, snails, and crustaceans. Whenever new fry is born, they can be given fine flake food or brine shrimp that are freshly hatched.

Peacock cichlids are less aggressive and milder mannered than the other cichlid groups. They can be put in tanks together as well as with some other types of peaceful fish. The ratio of female to a male should be about two or three females to one male. These fish have an interesting way of breeding. They are classified as ovophile mouth breeders. This means that the entire process of breeding, from fertilization to incubation to hatching of the eggs will happen inside the female's mouth.

The male peacock cichlid fish will first dig a hole in the sand substrate. The female lays the eggs inside this hole. She will then take the eggs into her mouth where she will keep them for the next three or four weeks. She will not eat during this time period.

By David Oc To learn more about cichlid fish, go to the Lifestyles100 website or pick up the Nook book, Cichlid Fish - The Wonderful World of Cichlid Care" at Barns and Noble. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Tips on Hippocampus Kuda Or Common SEAHORSE Care

Male seahorses are pouch brooders (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Seahorses are cataloged in the genus Hippocampus. The members of this genus belong to the family Syngnathidae. This family contains over 50 individual species including all seahorses and their close relatives the pipefish. Seahorses are found in shallow waters of tropical and temperate zones around the world.

The name Hippocampus is first recorded in Greek poetry. Hippos mean horse and campus translate to sea monster. Ancient Greeks and Romans believed seahorses were a gift from the sea god Poseidon/Neptune. Despite their fragility, seahorses were perceived to be a symbol of strength and power. There are three species of seahorse found in the Mediterranean Sea. These are the Hippocampus hippocampus or long snout, the Hippocampus brevirostris or short snout, and the Hippocampus fuscus which emigrated from its native habitat in the Red Sea. Many Europeans thought these equine-like creatures bore the souls of recently departed sailors, providing them safe passage to the underworld and protecting over them until their souls meant their destiny. Seahorse fossils have been discovered dating as far back as 13 million years. Here we will focus both the seahorse collectively and one specific species Hippocampus kuda also known as the common seahorse.

The common seahorse is indigenous to the Indo-Pacific. Twenty-three countries have confirmed the presence of H. Kuda ranging as far south as Australia to as far north as China.

Seahorses have been procured by Chinese herbologists for their purported healing qualities for centuries. Native populations throughout Indonesia and the Central Philippines also use seahorses as a component in herbalistic medicines. It is estimated that up to 20 millions seahorses a year are harvested to support this thriving industry. Overfishing has driven seahorse populations to the verge of becoming endangered species. The common seahorse is currently listed as a vulnerable species by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, also known as the Washington Convention). CITES has regulated the import and export of seahorses in this region of the world since 2004. Unfortunately, Indonesia, Japan and South Korea do not recognize the trade rules put in place by the Washington Convention.

Seahorses are a boney fish. They are devoid of scales. They have a thin layer of skin stretched over a series of bony plates arranged in rings. Each individual species has a specific number of these rings. Seahorses have a cornet on their heeds. These cornets are distinctive to each seahorse. No two are identical much like a human fingerprint.

These creatures swim vertically, a trait specific to seahorses. They are poor swimmers who move very slowly in the water. Propulsion is achieved by the rapid flutter of the dorsal fin on their backs. They maneuver with the use of their pectoral fins located behind their eyes. They do not possess a caudal (tail) fin. In its place, there is a prehensile tail which they warp around stationary objects to anchor themselves.

In an aquarium, seahorses must be provided with objects to anchor themselves to. Coral and small branches will suffice nicely. These are timid creatures that should never be housed with even moderately aggressive species. They are easily stressed. Prolonged periods of stress will lower the efficiency of their immune system making them more susceptible to disease. Gobies and other docile mannered fish will make suitable tank mates. Seahorses are primarily bottom dwellers. They will peacefully coexist with ornamental crustaceans and other bottom feeders. This makes them the perfect compliment to a marine reef aquarium.

The amateur aquarist should not attempt to raise seahorses. You will only accomplish the unnecessary death of a rapidly vanishing species. Seahorses are only recommended for the more experienced saltwater aficionado.

All seahorses are carnivorous. They use their snouts to suck in zooplankton as a source of nutrition. Upon initial introduction to a home aquarium, seahorses may only eat live food offerings. Rotifers, mysis and brine shrimp should help persuade them to start feeding. With patience, they can be weaned off of live food. These are slow feeders and must not be made to compete for their food.

In recent decades the captive breeding of seahorses has become increasingly widespread. The common seahorse is among these commercially raised specimens. Farm raised seahorses may already be acclimated to non-living food offerings. These are commonly more expensive than wild caught seahorses. However, you have a specimen that will not have to endure the shock and trauma of being yanked out of its natural habitat and placed in the confines of an aquarium. Farm raised marine species are more disease resistant and have a much higher survivability rate. And you will not be a participant in the further depletion of an already threatened species.

By Stephen J Broy If you find the idea of raising seahorses intriguing, then you should check out the hottest new trend in the saltwater aquarium industry, Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquariums. Keeping Moon Jellyfish & Pet Jellies is the hottest new trend among saltwater aquarists. Article Source: EzineArticles

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