Parachromis Managuense - JAGUAR CICHLID

Parachromis managuensis (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Parachromis managuense has a bad reputation, just like many of the other large predatory cichlids. This reputation is largely undeserved, and besides, the positive sides of these fishes more than makeup for any negative ones. Not to mention that an adult P. managuense is incredibly beautiful.

I've kept these cichlids and have nothing but good to say about them as long as you have an aquarium large enough to handle this species that grows to 55 cm/22 inches. I would say that the absolute minimum to keep these cichlids together with other cichlids is a tank of 540 litres/120 gallons. And that's a minimum; a larger aquarium is preferable. Large specimens require even larger aquariums. They can be bred in aquariums that are at least 250 litres/55 gallons.

The aquarium should be decorated so that natural territory boundaries are created and so that there are a lot of hiding places for the female, as the male can be quite mean to her if she isn't ready to breed when he is. Larger rocks should be placed directly on the bottom of the aquarium since this species digs a lot and can move large stones. Use silica to glue caves and stone formations together so that they don't fall down.

This species hasn't got any bigger demands and thrives in most water conditions as long as pH and DH levels aren't too extreme in either direction.

P. managuense can be kept with other cichlids from the region as long as they aren't too small and can stand up for themselves. This is true for most cichlids species from Central America. P. managuense can be aggressive, but in my experience, their aggressiveness is greatly exaggerated and P. managuense leaves most fishes alone. However, during breeding, they will protect their young and their territory furiously, and since they are quite large they can claim large territories especially if normal boundaries aren't created in the aquarium. But I wish to stress that P. managuense normally isn't that aggressive and doesn't beat other fish to death. Just don't keep them with fish small enough to eat (except for Ancistrus which usually survive despite their small size).

Feeding P. managuense is easy and they accept just about any food. I recommend feeding them a diet of pellets, shrimps and fish bits. To vary the diet I sometimes feed them live feeders, usually convicts since it seems that one always has spare convicts one can't get rid of by selling or giving away. I usually feed my P. managuense twice a day with the occasional week without food.

Sexing P. managuense is usually easy and follows the line of most other cichlids. Females are smaller and rounder. Breeding P. managuense is according to my experience also easy as long as you give them their own aquarium. Breeding them in aquariums with other cichlids is harder, but not too hard. The biggest problem is deciding what to do with and how to raise the very large number of fry. Each spawning can generate up to 2000-3000 fry.

They are usually very good parents and the fry grow very fast. They guard their young for up to 6 weeks during which time the fry reaches a size of 1.5 - 2 cm, or approximately ¾ inch. After that, the parents spawn again and the fry has to be removed or the parents will kill them while protecting the new batch. However, on rare occasions, the parents can protect two batches simultaneously. This usually ends in the second batch being eaten by their older sisters and brothers, which will grow very fast on this diet. :-)

Spawnings are usually 4-7 weeks apart. They usually lay their eggs on a rock or root that has been carefully cleaned, and then dig very big craters right down to the glass bottom in which to keep their young. The fry is small but accepts most kinds of food. The parents will spit out pellets that they've chewed into tiny pieces for the fry to eat. The growth rate I mentioned above is based on my own experiences when I feed only pellets. However, I don't recommend you rely too heavily on the parents chewing food for their young. You might observe whether the fry gets the food they need this way, but if they don't I recommend you feed the fry if you want them to survive.

Raising the fry without their parents is much harder and I wouldn't recommend separating fry unless it's absolutely necessary. If possible, it's better to wait a few weeks until the fry has grown a little.

If you like predatory fish and are willing to take my word that most of its reputation is undeserved, then I recommend you to try this very beautiful fish.

Article by William Berg - Article Source: EzineArticles

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LEOPARD GECKO Care Sheet

Leopard gecko example (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

1.1 - General Information

Leopard Geckos are nocturnal, ground-dwelling reptiles that were originally found in the deserts of Pakistan, India, Afghanistan, and Iran (although they live in the desert, their natural substrate is not sand, as I will discuss later under substrate). The scientific name is Eublepharis macularius (which means "true" "eyelid" "spot"). They are one of the few geckos that actually have eyelids, and they naturally have spots. There are many different morphs of Leopard Geckos that I will go into in more detail later. Many people now breed Leopard Geckos, and you can purchase them at a local pet store (or through breeders). They may live up to 20 years if properly cared for, and reach an average size of 8-10 inches when they reach adulthood (approximately 1-2 years into the gecko's life).

2.1 - Housing

First things first, you should never house multiple male Leopard Geckos together. They are territorial and may fight each other. You shouldn't house a female and a male together either unless you want babies. However, you can house multiple females together, but you must watch them carefully because there can be situations where one may be a leader. Some signs of "bullying" would be marks on one of the geckos, one getting more food than the other, or one of the geckos getting a good bit larger than the other.

Next question one might have is, "How big should my tank be?" Well, this depends on how many geckos you plan to house in the tank. A 10-gallon tank would be on the small side for one gecko, but it works. My opinion is that a 20-gallon tank works best for 2, maybe 3 geckos and a 30-gallon tank can fit up to 4 or 5 (this area is debated, so the fewer geckos, the safer). I do not suggest you ever house more than 5 geckos in one tank. Another thing to consider when purchasing a tank is that Leopard Geckos don't climb as much as other geckos, so it is better to buy a tank with more surface area. For example: A 20 gallon tank (24" x 12" x 16") meaning 24" by 12" surface area, compared to a 20 gallon long (30" x 12" x 12") which has 30" by 12" surface area. You could get those two tanks for the same price, but the 20 gallons long would be a better choice.

3.1 - Feeding

When it comes to feeding, babies/juveniles eat more often than adults because it is important for them to grow a big healthy tail. A good rule of thumb to go by is once a day for any gecko 1 1/2 years and every other day for older geckos. You should let your gecko eat as much as he or she can in 15 minutes. They have good judgment and will not eat more than they can. When they are younger, they may eat too much and regurgitate food. This is just a learning process and doesn't hurt your baby, it should teach them not to eat that much. When your gecko grows older you should keep feeding it as much as he/she can eat in 15 minutes, but only feed it every other day. A good rule of thumb to use is don't feed anything longer than the width between your gecko's eyes (or 3/4 of their head). This will keep your gecko from swallowing something too big and choking, although they usually regurgitate. To learn more about what to feed your geckos, continue reading through the next couple of sections.

4.1 - Health

Health is an important part of your gecko's life, of course. Some positive signs of a healthy gecko are:

• Feeding well.
• Growing (if a baby).
• Is active at night.
• Has a fat tail (it is OK if younger geckos don't have fat tails, as they are still growing).
• And is acting normal

You should always check for signs of unhealthiness. Also, if you get a new gecko (or geckos) and you are planning to house them with another gecko that you already had or you just bought, you should "quarantine the new gecko(s). This is a process where you take the new gecko and put him in a tank by himself for about 3 months. If you don't do this, and your gecko came with a disease, the disease would spread to the other gecko and both of them would have died. After the 3 months, you can safely house that gecko with another one. This is just a safe way to determine if a Leopard Gecko is "disease-free".

By James G Sullivan - Article Source:EzineArticles

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CLOWNFISH and SEA ANEMONE: Symbiotic Relationship

On Black Ocellaris clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris. Some clown anemonefishes are brave.
When divers close to them, papa anemonefish will swim out to defense. (Looks like very angry!!) But, often they will hide. (papa will hide faster than their babies. haha~) Lovely!!
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Clownfish or the anemonefish are small fishes belonging to superclass Pisces and family Pomacentridae. There are about twenty-nine species of clownfish are known all over the world out of which one belongs to the genus Premnas and others are kept in the genus Amphiprion. As their name indicates they form symbiotic mutualistic associations with the sea anemones in the ocean world. 

Depending upon the species these may be overall yellow, orange, reddish, or blackish while others may bear patches or bars. The largest species are not to attain a body length of about 18 centimeters while the normal range of body length is about 10 centimeters. The well known popular movie entitled Finding Nemo by the Pixar/Disney figures out the clownfish as the leading character.

Clownfish are known to inhabit the warmer waters of Indian and Pacific oceans along with the Great Barrier Reef and the Red Sea. The majority of the species are known to dwell in restricted areas while others have a wide range of distribution. They are generally hosting specific but some species also show coordination with other species also. They are known to dwell at the bottom of the seafloor confined in the shelters of lagoons or coral reefs. They prefer to live in pairs. 

They are also distributed in northwest Australia, Southeast Asia, Japan and the Indo-Malaysian region but totally absent in the Caribbean region. They are known to feed on small invertebrates otherwise they may cause damage to the sea anemone. The fecal matter released by these fishes acts as a source of nutrients for the sea anemone. They are strictly omnivorous and their gut content has revealed that their diet includes 20-25% of algae. The diet comprises of copepods, algae, zooplankton, and algae. They also feed on small crustaceans and mollusks. When kept under captivity they are provided fish pellets and fish flakes and food. They also feed on the undigested food material of the sea anemones.

Clownfish and certain damselfish are the only known species of fishes which are able to remain unaffected by the poison secreted by the sea anemone. Many theories have been put forward to support this view. According to one view, the mucus coating of the fish may be composed of sugars rather than proteins so the sea anemone fails to recognize the fish as food sources and does not attacks it. Another view suggests that due to co-evolution clownfish have developed immunity against the toxins secreted by the sea anemone. 

It is well known that they tend to live in pairs in a single anemone and when the female dies the male changes its sex to female. This process is known as sequential hermaphroditism. Clownfish are born as males and that is why they are protandrous hermaphrodites. On top of the hierarchy reproducing females is presently followed by the male but if the female dies this hierarchy gets disrupted. The largest member of a group is a female and the second largest one the male. Clownfish are neuter which means that they do not have fully developed sex organs for either gender.

Clownfish prefer to lay their eggs on flat surfaces where they can adhere properly. Spawning generally occurs around the time of the full moon. The male is known to guard the eggs until they hatch after 8-10 days. They lay eggs ranging from hundreds to thousands. They are the first known fishes to breed in captivity. The average life span is of 6-10 years but in captivity, they live up to 3-5 years. They show a special association with the sea anemone. The activity of these fishes results in a greater amount of water circulation around the sea anemone and sea anemone provides them protection from its toxins. Clownfish depends on the sea anemone for its daily food. 

When anemone paralyzes a fish and consumes it these fish eat the chunks and pieces left after the feeding of the anemone. The fish also keeps the anemone free by eating up its dead tentacles and act as a lure by attracting predators towards itself by its bright coloration. This sort of symbiotic association of the clownfish with the sea anemone makes them the most astonishing creatures living underwater. They are known bred in captivity in the marine ornamental farms in the USA. If the anemone of the aquarium dies they tend to live in the soft varieties of corals. The corals may agitate the skin of these fishes and in some cases may kill the corals also. Once they get confined in the corals they defend it. We can conclude that they are amazing fishes showing unique features.

By Navodita Maurice - Article Source: EzineArticles

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You Can Start Your Hobby With Any Type of GOURAMI FISH

Golden and Blue Gouramis (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Gouramis are very appealing species of fish to the fish-keepers because of their bright colors, hardy nature, and entertaining style of living. They are always energetic, playful and peaceful with other species of the fish in the same aquarium.

There are many different species of Gourami fish available to beginners. Here are some of the most popular ones -

1. Blue Gourami fish - They are also called three-spot Gourami. They are one of the largest fish out of the Gourami family. They prefer to live in shallow waters and in an area with abundant vegetation. Their body looks like elongated and compressed. You will find three spots on their body - one is on the tail, the other one is in the middle of the body and the third one is their eye! They usually feed themselves with insects from the water. With their bright blue color which changes according to their moods and movements, they are very popular.

2. Pearl Gourami fish - They are the hardiest among the Gourami family. When they are quiet in the water with the water moving slowly over them, they resemble like a pearl. They can grow up to 4 inches in length. They prefer low lighting and dark substrate. They are easy for taking care and they can live up to eight years.

3. Banded Gourami fish - They are also known as rainbow Gouramis because of their attractive color combinations. While their body is of golden color, there are stripes of pale blue color over the entire body. They are sturdy you should feed them a lot of vegetables to keep them lively.

4. Kissing Gourami fish - They have originated from Thailand. They are found in two colors - pink and silver-green. They prefer to stay in slow-moving waters like marshes or ponds. When the males of this species challenge each other, they will lock their mouths, so they are known as kissing Gouramis. In the open nature, they can grow up to one foot but in captivity, they may grow only up to 6 inches. So you should always provide a large tank for them. In small tanks, they may develop stress and may die. They love to eat algae and they have sharp teeth. If no algae are available in the tank, they will start eating the plants!

5. Moonlight Gourami fish - They have a unique shape which is quite different from the entire Gourami family. They are famous for one particular habit - at the time of spawning, the male will roll the female!

6. Dwarf Gourami fish - Originating from the Indian subcontinent, they love to live in a quiet environment. However, they can live peacefully with other species. You can find them in different color-combinations in the market. They are suitable for smaller aquariums. The only precaution you should remember about them is, always keep them in a quiet environment. If there is a lot of noise around, they will develop stress and will get sick soon.

It is better to discuss with the local pet fish shop before buying any of these. In addition, you can also make small research over the Internet to keep them well.

By Chintamani Abhyankar Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. Article Source: EzineArticles

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RYUKIN GOLDFISH

Ryukin Goldfish

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Types of GOLDFISH

Goldfish (Carassius auratus) were originally domesticated from the Prussian carp (Carassius gibelio). Selective breeding over many centuries has produced goldfish with various colors, color patterns, forms and sizes far different from those of the original domesticated carp.

There are so many different types of goldfish. The main types are.

Black Moors: The Black Moor is a black version of the Telescope.

Bubble Eye: The Bubble eye is a small variety of fancy goldfish with upward-pointing eyes that are accompanied by two large sacs under the eyes. Like ranchu, the bubble eye lacks in the dorsal fin and has a double tail.

Butterfly Tail: The butterfly tail or jikin is similar to the wakin except when viewed from behind the butterly tail's double tail fin has a pronounced "X" shape.

Calico:  Calico has patches of red, yellow, grey and black along with dark speckles on a blue background. This nacreous coloration usually extends over the fins. Calico coloration can occur in goldfish varieties such as the orandas, ryukins, fantails, telescope eyes, and others.

A Celestial Eye (Stargazer) goldfish
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Celestial Eye: The Celestial eye has a torpedo-shaped body similar to the Bubble Eye. The Celestial eye has eyes that are aimed upwards but lacks the sacs under their eyes. Like ranchu, the Celestial Eye is one of the dorsal less goldfish.

Comet: Comet is a long slender body and a long tail. Comet is a hardy type of goldfish that are suitable for garden ponds due to their high tolerance for cold water.

Common Goldfish: Common goldfish are a type of goldfish with no other modifications from their ancestor, the Prussian carp(Carassius gibelio), other than their color.

Egg-fish Goldfish: Egg-fish has an egg-shaped body and a long tail, without a dorsal fin and no headgrowth.

Fantail: The Fantail has an egg-shaped body, a high dorsal fin, a long quadruple caudal fin, and no shoulder hump.

Lionchu: The Lionchu is a fancy goldfish that has resulted from crossbreeding lionheads and ranchus. The lionchu has the large headgrowth like the lionhead and lacks in dorsal fin.

Lionhead: The Lionhead has an egg-shaped body without dorsal fins and a very straight back.

Oranda: The Oranda has a large round shaped body. All of their fins are paired except the dorsal fin, and the tail fin is usually split. Their head growth or hood similar to the Lionhead.

Panda Moor: The panda moor is a fancy goldfish with a characteristic black-and-white color pattern and protruding eyes.

A Pearlscale Goldfish.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Pearlscale: Pearlscale is a spherical shaped body with finnage similar to the fantail. They have a straight back with a swollen belly, resembling a golf ball.

Pompom: Pompom is a type of fancy goldfish that have bundles of loose fleshy outgrowths between the nostrils, on each side of the head. The size of these pompom can differ greatly. Pompom  are available in different types with and without fins.

Ranchu: The Ranchu has a short, round body and short fins with no dorsal fin. The tail is set at a sharp angle to the back, and may have three or four lobes.

Ryukin: Ryukin is a rounded or egg-shaped body fancy goldfish. Ryukin is looks similar to the Fantail except for the hump back that begins right behind the head. A high hump is considered very desirable.

Clear picture of a Shubunkin.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Shubunkin: Shubunkin is a single-tailed with nacreous scales, and a pattern known as calico. Shubunkin is available in two different forms, London Shubunkin and Bristol Shubunkin.

Telescope Eye: The telescope eye is a fancy goldfish characterized by its protruding eyes. The telescope eye is known by several other names as well, such as Globe Eye, Dragon Eye and Demekin.

Tosakin: Tosakin has a body shaped like that of the Ryukin, its undivided tail fin opens and spreads so flat and wide horizontally causing the front ends to flip under at the front once and even twice. It is also known as the peacock tail, and may have originally been developed from ryukin.

Veiltail: Veiltail has very long fins that hang down from their bodies like a veil.

By Piman Khrutmuang Piman Khrutmuang is a goldfish lover guy. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Some Of The Best All Year-round AQUARIUM TIPS

Fish in marin aquarium. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When it comes to looking after your aquarium you need to be focussed on providing care all year-round. Below we look at some of the most important points

Temperature Control For Your Aquarium

When it comes to caring for your aquarium fish, temperature control is one of the most important aspects. Although we may really feel the weather outside, your aquarium fish are more likely to suffer from any drastic changes to temperature which occurs inside the aquarium. So the following tips are worth noting:

1) Ensure that you switch the lights off during the hottest part of the day.

2) Check that your heater is properly working and keeping a steady temperature. Water which is too warm may result in the fish suffocating.

3) If you need to make any change in temperature always do so gradually.

Regular Care and Maintenance of Your Aquarium

Regular care is needed if you have an aquarium. This regular maintenance should involve vigorous aeration and filtration. Make sure that you clean your tank out regularly to ensure that the fish remain healthy.

Aquarium General Tips

Following these general tips should lead to a better environment for your aquarium fish:

1) Limit the number of fish in your aquarium to maximise the amount of oxygen for each fish. It will also help minimise the number of times you will need to clean the aquarium.

2) Make sure that you think about the positioning of the aquarium – it shouldn’t be in direct sunlight as this may increase the amount of algae.

3) Research the fish before you buy. You need to check that each fish you put into the aquarium is compatible with the general environment and with the other fish. 

4) You should change 25% of the water in the aquarium weekly to help maintain a healthy water balance for your fish

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How To check The Sex of DISCUS FISH

Photo by wplynn

Among the biggest question asked of the discus breeder is "how do I determine the sex of my fish?"

There are very few easy identifiable identifiers in this process.  Here, we will discuss the methods used by some of the top breeders.

In juvenile fish, determining sex is almost impossible.  It is only when they begin to pair off that an opportunity arises to help in the determination of sex. Juvenile fish, both male and female, have a rounded dorsal fin, and it is not until they begin to mature that a difference can be found.  As it is never wise to excessively handle the fish, close observation is in order to aid the breeder.

In Allnut Enterprises' King Discus Hatchery, for instance, it is an easy process to determine who is who, as we have observed these fish for a while, and can determine the sex of the pairs we own. This would be true in any hatchery. But to the uninitiated or casual observer, this would not be easy to do.

A few of the identifiers: The male will have thicker lips to aid him in his fight to protect the female, and will be more aggressive. He will be larger than the female, his forehead is thicker, and we have observed that if the discus is a bit shy, the male will have a tendency to stay between the female and the observer.

The dorsal fin of the male will be pointed, and the female's dorsal fin will be rounded.  Note that in the juvenile discus, this is not apparent.

The breeding tube of the female, between the anus and anal fin, is broader and rounder than the male, and will have a blunt tip.  The male, in turn, has a smaller, sharper breeding tube.  Be aware that this is only evident during spawning, and should be closely observed.

It has been said that the male discus fish will tend to have a less intense color and more pattern while the female tends to be more colorful but with a lesser pattern.  I disagree because too many variables are in place here, so much the health of the discus, the water parameters, and feeding pattern.

In an interesting text by Jeff Richard, he discusses an article from Diskus Brief, a German publication, which reports a very successful way of determining the sex of a discus by using simple geometry.  Jeff reports, and I quote: "Picture a discus facing to your left ... you would be looking at its side. Find the Dorsal (Top) and Anal (bottom) fins and look where the fins slope down toward the Caudal (tail) fin ... make sure you're looking at the fins after they have curved back toward the tail.

The Dorsal and Anal Fins become (almost) straight after the fins curve down (or up) toward the Caudal Fin ... extend an imaginary line along this straight section of the 2 fins back toward the tail which just touches the Dorsal & Anal Fins past the Caudal Fin. These two imaginary lines should intersect behind the fish. The key to sexing the fish is where the lines cross the Caudal fin. If they pass through the Caudal Fin, the fish is most likely a FEMALE. If they miss or just touch the Caudal Fin, then most likely it is a MALE."  Thanks, Jeff!

Sexing Discus is difficult at best.  The easiest way to do so is to raise a group of at least six to eight discus, and allow them to pair off when ready.  It is a beautiful sight to see this happen and makes the hobby well worthwhile.

Alden Smith is a published author and has been marketing on the internet for 7 years.  - Article Directory: EzineArticles

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KHV- KOI Herpes Virus

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

KHV or Koi Herpes Virus is a potentially deadly virus which has recently shown up in the Koi industry. The first outbreak was reported and confirmed in late 1998, early 1999 in Israel. Since then, outbreaks have been reported all over the world, in  Asia, Europe, and The United States of America. As with the majority of Herpes type viruses in the world, Koi Herpes Virus is believed to remain with infected fish for their full lifespan. Even Koi that was exposed to the virus at one point or another are considered carriers, even if they did not show signs of the virus. The mortality rate for fish exposed to the virus ranges from 60 to 80 percent.

When it comes down to it, any Koi is susceptible to the virus. The only real way to prevent it is to make sure that your Koi is never exposed to it. As long as you are knowledgeable about the disease, the chances of your Koi catching Koi Herpes Virus is substantially less.

Koi Herpes Virus Facts

Since the first outbreak in 1998, quite a bit has been learned about the virus. Knowing the facts about the virus may mean the difference between potentially infecting your pond, and preventing it.

Once a fish has been exposed to the virus, it will always be a carrier. Even with proper treatment, these fish will never be able to go to a new home. Sending exposed fish to a new home can potentially spread the virus to other fish. Likewise, adding new Koi into your pond could cause the new fish to get the virus, and cause a potentially higher mortality rate.

There is no known cure for the Koi Herpes Virus.

Stress does not cause the disease in any way. However, stress can cause the disease to have a higher mortality rate.

74 degrees Fahrenheit activates the disease. This is extremely useful information because it allows for quarantining and testing to see whether or not fish have Koi Herpes Virus.

The virus can be spread a number of ways, including coming into contact with infected fish, water in which infected fish swam in, tools used when handling infected fish, and so on.

Preventing Further Spreading Of The Virus

Once your fish has been diagnosed with Koi Herpes Virus, the only real way to ensure that you do not infect any other fish is to consider depopulation. Depopulation is essentially the elimination of your entire population of Koi. While this might seem harsh, it is truly the only way to completely eliminate the possibility of any other fish from catching the virus.

When purchasing new fish, it is a good idea to quarantine the new fish separately from your current population for no less than 15 days. Knowing that the disease is activated at exactly 74 degrees Fahrenheit allows you to expose your fish to the right conditions for the disease to show itself. Koi that live in the conditions for this amount of time and do not develop any symptoms will have a substantially less chance of having the virus.

It is important to remember that when you quarantine your new Koi, they should remain under total isolation. This means that you should not allow anything to come into contact with the quarantined Koi, especially items that also come into contact with your current population. Separate tools, food, and water should be used, and never under any circumstances, should the tools used for your quarantined fish leave the area in which they are used. Another important thing to remember is proper hand washing procedures when handling both Koi and Koi items within the same time period.

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Choosing KOI POND PLANTS

Floating lilies, the sunlight showing its delicate petals structure and waxed leaves adapted for floating. - (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Planting a koi pond is a challenge that offers great rewards. Not only will the flowers and foliage of the koi pond plants look attractive, but diverse plant life will help to achieve a healthy balance of nature as insects, frogs and the koi fish flourish together alongside the vegetation.

You may find some plants together with your normal fish pond supplies, otherwise, you will need to visit your local nursery and see what they have to offer in the way of suitable plants.

In the general scheme of things, there are many plants that are suitable for koi ponds, some of which will grow in the water, some that will float, and others that will take root in the silt or mud on the floor of your pond. Suitable koi pond plants may be categorized as:

o bog or marsh plants,

o marginal plants,

o aquatic plants,

o floating plants, and

o oxygenators.

Unfortunately, many water plant species are invasive in hot climates and they are therefore considered to be invaders. So check with your local forestry or water authorities and try, wherever possible to plant whatever is indigenous to your own region.

Marsh plants

Typical marsh-loving plants thrive on moisture and they will do particularly well on the banks of an informal koi pond. Some examples include ferns, irises and lilies. See what you can find.

Marginal plants

Marginal plants normally grow in shallow water, so they do well in the shallows of a pond, or on shelves that have been created for planting.

Water-loving grasses, reeds, rushes and various sedges will all establish themselves quite easily within a koi pond, but you need to be sure they won't take over the entire area. There is a huge choice, so be selective.

There are also many leafy marginal plants, some of which will flower. These include plants like water mint, water forget-me-nots, monkey flowers, water poppies, aquatic irises and many other species.

Aquatic plants

Deep-water aquatics live with their roots submerged in the water while their leaves and flowers soar heavenward. Like floating plants, they help to keep the water cool and clear by minimizing the amount of sunlight that gets to the water, thus preventing algae from flourishing.

There are quite a few aquatic plants including the yellow fringed water lily, the impressive Japanese lotus plant and of course, the good, old faithful water lily.

Water lilies are undoubtedly one of the most beautiful aquatic plants, many of which grow on the base of the pond or in natural crevices or containers below the surface of the water, sprouting leaves and flowers above the surface. Here you just need to be aware that koi often eat from the base of the pond and so might nibble away at the roots of lilies, in which case the lilies may not survive.

Floating plants

Floating plants do have roots, but these don't need soil or silt to feed them or anchor them. Sadly some of the prettiest floating water plants are banned in the US, including water lettuce and water hyacinth with its beautiful, pale lavender flowers. Just keep reminding yourself what a nuisance these plants have become.

Oxygenators

Oxygenators are the plants that help to maintain the balance of nature within the water itself. They are submerged beneath the surface of the water and not only provide food for koi, but also give them a really good place to spawn.

By Jan Rautenbach -Article Source: EzineArticles

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The Four Seasons of a KOI POND

Spring

Fish pond in winter (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Fish ponds, including koi ponds, come awake in the spring after a winter of semi-dormancy. As soon as the temperature rises above 10C (50F), your fish become more lively and your plants will begin growing again. This means that it is a great opportunity to do some upkeep - a spring clean - because you will not shock or stress your dormant fish. If you attempt it any earlier, you will upset your fish in their slumber and any later and you may disturb breeding.

You ought to take out any leaves that have fallen into the pond and dredge for some of the algae. Then clean your pond filter and turn your filtration system back on, if you turned it off for the winter. Test the water for any chemical discrepancies and treat any issues.

You should also add a broad spectrum medication for common fish ailments. Depending on the medication you use, you may have to replicate this procedure a week later or when the temperature rises above a certain degree.

Summer

This is when your pond is in full swing. Your aquatic plants will be flourishing as will the algae. You must keep the algae under control, which means dredging, netting and scraping. You will have to clean your pond filter more often as well. Check it daily and keep it working at full power. The cleaner you can keep your koi pond now, the less work you will have to do afterward.

Oxygenation of the water is a major concern in the summer because warm water is able to hold less oxygen than cold water. Therefore, you will need to keep your fountain working and your bubbler bubbling, if you have one.

If you do not have one, think about getting one. You fish and the blooming algae will be competing for the oxygen in the pond water. You can tell if the water is short of oxygen because the fish will be gulping air at the surface.

The warm water will not only stimulate your fish and your plants, but it will also bring parasites to life, so keep a keen eye on your fish' health and treat anything dubious immediately. Be on the lookout for fish rubbing against the sides or each other - scratching themselves, in other words.

Feed frequently. Your fish will have eaten very little in the winter and now they have to replenish their fat for breeding and next winter.

Autumn

Autumn is variable, but the first half may be like the summer and the second half more like winter. Continue to feed well. As the trees start to lose their leaves, you must eliminate them from your pond water.

Drag the leaves off at least once a day or sling a net over the pond and skim for leaves weekly. If you have any pond plants that will not survive the winter, either take them indoors or throw them away; you do not want them rotting in your pond.

Winter

Life in your pond will slow down as winter progresses. You ought to feed less often, maybe only once a day until it gets to 10C (50F) and then discontinue feeding - your fish will be in semi-hibernation at this point. Remove your filtration pumps and your fountain and switch all electrical equipment off.

Put a pond heater in the water. This is a floating apparatus that keeps a small surface area from freezing. If you allow all your pond to freeze over gases will build up, oxygen will disappear and your fish will die.

By Owen Jones - Article Source: EzineArticles

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KOI PONDS During The SUMMER

Koi fish in the pond at the Gibraltar Botanic Gardens. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Summer is considered one of the best and more vibrant times for your Koi pond. 

Temperatures are beautiful, and you are more able to enjoy your pond then during the cold Winter months. However, by no means, should your maintenance drop during the summer months. Remembering a few things during the summer months will ensure that your pond stays beautiful and lively.

Higher Temperatures Cause Less Oxygen 

During the summer months, the oxygen level in your pond actually decreases. Proper precautions should be taken, especially if you live in an area where temperatures stay high for the majority of the year. If you witness your Koi hanging out towards the top of the water, and they seem to be gasping for air, this may be a good indication that your pond does not have a high enough concentration of Oxygen.

One way to keep oxygen moving in your water is by installing water features such as waterfalls and fountains. The more the water is moving, the more Oxygen is available to your Koi.  

If water features are not available, frequent water changes will give your fish the amount of Oxygen they need to survive. 

Watch For Evaporation

Higher heat will cause your water to evaporate at a much higher rate. Pay close attention to your water levels and do adjustments as necessary. Remember, you must remove all chlorine from the water you add. 

Summertime is Parasite Season

Not unlike other situations in life, heat brings on potential parasites and illness. The majority of parasites are not seeable by the naked eye, so instead, you must watch your Koi for signs of illness.

You may notice strange behaviors in your fish such as rubbing against objects, scratching, shaking, or shivering. Each symptom could indicate a different type of illness, so it is important to watch closely.

It is especially important to pay attention to your Koi if they start developing noticeable spots or changes on their body. They may also knock fins off. 

If any type of change is noticed, contact your local vet, pet store, or Koi dealer as soon as possible. While some parasites will cause little damage, some illnesses such as KHV or Koi Herpes Virus have a high mortality rate and should be treated as soon as possible.

Feeding Your Koi

To remain healthy during the summer, your fish will need food high in the types of nutrients that they need. During the summer you should feed your fish food that is low in protein at least one to three times a day. If your fish still seem hungry after feeding, you may want to increase feeding slightly.

Feeding your Koi small amounts of food at a time will prevent food from spoiling. If you feed in larger amounts, some food may remain uneaten, and it can spoil in a very short amount of time.  Fish will only eat what they need to survive and will leave the rest. Spoiled food can cause water quality issues if close attention is not paid.

Feeding your Koi actually causes less Oxygen content in the water. During the summer this can especially be an issue, as Oxygen levels deplete in high temperatures. You can remedy this by feeding your fish in the cooler hours of the day.

Summer presents a special time to hand feed your Koi. Children are out of school, and the weather is usually perfect for being outside. Get the kids involved as they will remember it for years to come.

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Tips on Raising Healthy CLOWN LOACHES

A clown loach (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Clown loaches or Botia macracantha are native to the rivers and streams of Borneo, Sumatra, and Indonesia. Their vertically striped bodies make them a favorite among freshwater aquarium owners. The striping consists of three wide, black vertical bands on an orange body. This configuration has also earned them the nickname of tiger loaches. Their mouths have three downward pointed pairs of maxillary barbels.

A barbel is a slender, whisker-like tactile organ. Maxillary refers to the barbel's location near the mouth. These tentacle-like organs houses taste buds and are used to search for food in murky water. Barbels are a bottom-dwelling species of scavenger fish like catfish and carp. Barbles and downward pointed mouth are what distinguish bottom dweller from other fish. The clown loach is one such bottom dweller.

Bottom dwellers, in general, make a good addition to any community fish tank. The scavenging of food from the aquarium substrate helps prevent harmful chemical build up in the water. Most bottom dwellers are peaceful fish that tend to keep to themselves. They don't concern themselves with what is going in the water above them.

The clown loaches you see for sale in fish stores are very young. They look so cute it is tempting to buy one and take them home. Make no mistake. This species is among the largest freshwater varieties available commercially. They can grow up to 16 inches long as adults. Take this into consideration before deciding to purchase one.

An interesting behavioral note: Clown loaches have a peculiar tendency to spend a lot of time lying on their sides. Don't be alarmed. They are not sick or injured. This is just their normal behavior.

This fish's native water habitat is neutral water (pH of 7.0) with a water temperature between 75-86 degrees Fahrenheit. Clown loaches are intolerant of poor water conditions. They are prone to develop ich if left in unsatisfactory living conditions for extended periods of time.

Like all scavenger fish, clown loaches are omnivores. They can generally scavenge enough food that has been missed by the fish above them to survive just fine. But food that sinks, such as sinking wafers will ensure they have more than enough nourishment to survive.

Clown loaches are egg layers. They are not known to breed in captivity. Attempts to do so have been mostly unsuccessful. There are a few instances where clown loaches have been reported to spawn in captivity. But this is a rare occurrence.

The clown loaches are aware enough of their surroundings to realize they have been removed from their natural habitat. As a result, they have higher stress levels than much other fish. A good way to help reduce their stress levels is by providing them with plenty of hiding spaces on the bottom of your tanks such as rocks and plants. Once they adapt to their new surroundings they will be just fine.

Clown loaches are a long-lived species given proper living conditions. It is not uncommon for them to live from 40 to 50 years of age. It takes them years just to reach sexual maturity.

By Stephen J Broy Many home aquarium owners cringe at the thought of maintaining a saltwater aquarium. What most of them don't realize is that a Jellyfish Fish Tank Aquarium requires little more maintenance than a freshwater tank. Keeping Pet Moon Jellyfish is the hottest new trend in aquarium ownership. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Colorful BALTIMORE AQUARIUM - A Must-See Scenic Spot for Tourists in Baltimore

National Aquarium In Baltimore (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The National Aquarium is the public aquarium which was founded in the year 1981. The National Aquarium is located in the Inner Harbor of Baltimore. The aquarium receives around 1.6 million people every year. The aquarium has a collection of 16,500 specimens of over 600 different species.

This is the most popular tourist attractions in Baltimore. This is one of the biggest aquariums located in the United States. The Aquarium is crowded on the weekends and holidays. The aquarium provides a dolphin show which is a favorite event for the children as well as the adults. The other popular event in Aquarium is the 4-D immersion theater. You can get the aquarium tickets with or without the two shows.

There are several exhibits in Aquarium such as:

• Jellies invasion
• Our ocean planet - new dolphin show
• 4 D immersion theater
• Animal planet Australia

Prior planning is required for visiting the National Aquarium. The aquarium offers several shows and events and hence the aquarium is always busy. Reserve your tickets during weekends and holidays. There are animals from different spices such as Australian animals, Amphibians, birds, fish, invertebrates, mammals and reptiles.

The animals in the aquarium are unique and children enjoy watching the animals. The exhibits of the aquarium began with small local animals but later the visitors are surprised with sharks, rays, and very large creatures. The hours and price for the shows get vary according to the weather and season.

The admission fee for an adult to the aquarium is segmented as total experience package dolphin show package and aquarium admission. The total experience packages fee for adult is $29.95 for the age group of 12 to 59. The senior citizens are admitted with a fee of $28.95. The children from the age of 3 to 12 are charged a fee of $24.95. (Please check here for newer information)

By Page J. Brotherton Have fun in the Baltimore Aquarium Article Source: EzineArticles

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Brilliant Innovations in AQUARIUM MAINTENANCE - SAND FILTER and Gravel Washer

With the popularity of aquarium keeping hobby on the rise, came about newer technology developments that offers utmost convenience to the many aquarists worldwide. Such equipments and supplies are constantly invented and re-invented to help aquarium keepers take advantage of the most effective fish keeping practices possible and help maintain their fishes in the best condition. 

With the discovery of the most basic filtration systems, pumps, and aeration systems, aquarists have discovered the great difference brought about by these technologies. Greater appreciation was felt when the market made available the use of more upgraded filters, UV sterilizers, automatic fish food dispensers, water testing kits, water pH analyzers, flow meters, aquarium heaters, wave makers and a few more brilliant ideas that do make life easier for aquarium owners.

Of the many innovations in the fish keeping and aquarium maintenance tools, the fish tank gravel washer proves to be one of those that offers many advantages. An amazing tool that makes gravel cleaning very convenient, efficient, and gets things done in half the time you usually spend when doing it manually. Its mechanism works by removing dirt from the gravel while simultaneously performing water change without disturbing the gravel and tank decorations, sparing you from having to remove your tank's contents every water change. Not only it greatly helps keep your tank clean, it also saves you a lot of back-breaking work and time. 

Another impressive innovation that is found very useful in tank maintenance is the fish tank sand filter. Unlike traditional filters commonly used in many tanks, this one utilizes sand as medium for bacteria settlement. The sand, which contains some good bacteria, is a vital part of the filter itself, breaking down harmful chemicals particularly ammonia and nitrite which are known bi-products of fish waste and food debris. The beneficial bacteria is said to convert these toxics to something more harmless called the nitrate. This mechanism is also found to greatly help maintain water clarity as well as improve the water quality.

Both useful equipments, the sand filter and gravel washer, could now be easily found in many local aquatic supply stores and many online places specializing in aquarium maintenance equipments. Each may come in many brands, and prices may vary according to its sophistication. Larger tanks would naturally need larger filters or greater washer capacity. Surely there would be newer tools that would offer the same benefits for your tank, your tank water and most especially to your fishes, such discoveries and innovations would always be welcomed by aquarists.

The fish tank gravel washer and fish tank sand filter are indeed remarkable tools. How they could keep your tank clean and your fishes healthy makes them excellent additions to your aquarium.

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WATER LETTUCE - Pistia Stratiotes

WATER LETTUCE - Pistia Stratiotes

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BLUE-FACED ANGELFISH - Pomacantus xanthometopon

Blue-Faced Angelfish - Pomacantus xanthometopon

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