For many people, goldfish are one of the first pets that they have as pets. This species is one of the most well know types of fish, and breeders can be found all over the world. The origins of keeping goldfish as pets dates back a thousand years to ancient China, where the hobby of keeping goldfish was at one point controlled by the ruling imperial family.
Early Origins in China
Fish have been domesticated in China for thousands of years. As early as the Jin Dynasty (265-420AD), carp, a relative and ancestor of modern day goldfish, were kept and bred. Beginning in the Song Dynasty (960-1279AD) however, goldfish as we know them now were initially developed and bred. By separating the orange, red and yellow color variations in domesticated carp, breeders could reliably develop the breed further.
Early on, the imperial family prohibited anyone outside of the palace from owning yellow (gold) goldfish, because it was the imperial color. In the palace, however, there were numerous ornate ponds full of these beautifully colored fish.
Later, in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644AD), the continued development of the goldfish species led to more color variations as well as the first recorded instance of a fancy-tailed goldfish.
Japan, Europe and Beyond
Eventually, the practice of keeping goldfish grew from China and began spreading around the world. Japan was introduced to the goldfish in 1603 where the hobby quickly became quite popular. It was here during this time period that the Tosakin and Ryukin goldfish were developed.
Just a few years after goldfish were introduced to Japan, they also made their way to Europe. In 1611, the first recorded instance of goldfish was noted in Portugal, and from there the species spread all throughout the continent.
The modern hobby of keeping goldfish came to the United States during the middle of the 19th century. Over the past 150 years, the hobby has grown significantly and may new breeds have been developed as we gain further insight into genetics and the breeding process
Today, goldfish come in all types of breeds and color. The species has come a long way from its ancient origins, and now has developed into a popular hobby for goldfish keepers all around the world. No matter whether you just got your fish goldfish, or you have been keeping and breeding them for years, there is no doubt that you can see why this species of fish has been popular for a millennium.
Discus fish are available to buy online, if you decide to get your discus fish online then you must make sure that you know everything that there is to know about discus fish and taking care of them before your order any discus fish online.
There are many fish owners who consider discus fish to be quite difficult to look after and they are not often recommended to inexperienced aquarists. Although discus fish are not particularly difficult to manage, they can often become susceptible to stress borne disease and can die if they are not kept in optimal conditions. Ammonia cause from fish waste and bad water temperatures are the main threats to the discus immune system, in their natural habitat they live in distilled water and the chemicals which are more often than not added to the municipal water supply can harm the fish. Many discus fish owners choose to change water using RO water, however if you do use RO water you must be sure to add minerals back into the water that it takes out.
Before you buy your discus fish online you should make sure that:
1 You have a tank large enough to contain your discus fish- 20 to 27 gallon tanks should be sufficient for your discus fish
2 Do your homework- make sure that you have read through discus fish care books that you know how to take care of them, what they eat, the water pH, temperature, breeding- there is a lot to know before you get started.
3 Make sure that you have all of the equipment that you need to keep discus fish- filters, food, ornaments for the fish to hide behind etc.
4 Make sure that you have a safe and quite place to keep your discus fish tank
Once you have considered all of the facts about discus fish, then you are ready to buy your discus fish online! But where can you find discus fish online? There are dozens of websites which offer links to stores where you can order discus fish- these vary in prices and shipping charges to you might want to do a little bit of research before you settle for your buyer.
You should take into consideration; cost of fish, cost of shipping, shipping time and you should also consider whether or not you can trust the website to deliver your discus fish safely and in a healthy condition. If you want to find more information on where you can buy discus fish online, then do a quick internet search to find out everything that you need to know.
The author has created a review site that provides you with the most in-depth and complete analysis of the best discus fish online products to date called Discus fish Secrets.
It's a fine lazy day and you're just kicking back and enjoying the aquarium you've worked so hard to set up. But wait, something's off. One of your fish looks like he's been rolling in the sand. And another seems to have less fins than you remember. And still another is so swollen he looks as though he's about to burst. All in all, it looks as though your fish are sick! Yup, keep fish long enough and it's something you'll have to face eventually, and usually fairly early unfortunately. You see, illness is often preventable, but typically we only learn how to do so after doing it wrong the first time. But fear not! Many ailments can be turned around if spotted early and treated properly.
A veterinarian gives an injection to a goldfish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Spotting Illness
So how can you tell that a fish is sick in the first place? It's not like they're going to tap you on the shoulder and let you know. For the most part the only way you'll know something is wrong is through careful observation of their appearance and behavior. Hopefully you're already fairly well acquainted with what could be considered normal for your fish and can thus notice when something is off. Here are some key things to take note of:
-paleness/color change
-clamped fins (the fins are held close to the body)
-scraping or rubbing against objects in the tank
-heavy breathing
-loss of appetite
-loss of equilibrium
-hiding/isolation
-decreased activity
... and of course the more obvious signs like visible sores, swelling, and the like.
Keeping a watchful eye out for signs of illness is an important part of keeping fish. Try to take a few minutes each day to check for any signs that something is amiss. Feeding time provides an ideal opportunity to do this as most fish are at their most active when there's a meal to be had. An illness caught early is far easier to treat and the chances of the affected fish surviving the ordeal are far greater. For many ailments your fish may face by the time it's blatantly obvious it is too late.
Quarantine Tanks
Of course one step better than treating your fish once they become sick is preventing it from happening in the first place. The absolute best way to prevent diseases from reaching your tank is by using a quarantine tank. A quarantine tank is essentially just a small bare bones aquarium setup where all new arrivals can spend a week or two before entering your main setup. This gives you ample time to make sure your new fish are in good health before they have a chance to potentially spread any diseases to your other fish. It also gives new arrivals a chance to recover from the stress of moving in a quiet and peaceful environment. And if a problem does arise having the specimen already isolated makes treatment much easier as well. Finally, in the event that a problem does reach the fish in the main aquarium the quarantine tank can serve as a hospital tank as well, preventing the further spread of disease and providing a safer and more controlled environment for the application of any treatments.
In addition to a quarantine tank, keeping your fish in good general health goes a long way towards preventing any illness from taking hold. Most common diseases often arise in fish only when their health is already compromised. What causes their health to become compromised? The majority of the time the culprit is poor water quality. A fish trying to live in dirty water in kind of like you trying to live in a house filled with smoke- it's unlikely you'll be in the best of health. Keeping on top of your aquarium setup's maintenance is key to keeping your fish healthy and disease free. As such, should your fish ever become ill your first step should always be to make sure the water is in excellent condition. All the critical parameters, such as ammonia, nitrate, pH, and temperature, should be checked. Always be suspicious of any equipment or decor that was recently added to the tank as well which could be leeching something toxic into the water. And, even if poor water quality isn't the root cause of the illness, a water change is never a bad idea When it comes to recovery the cleaner the water the better.
About Medications
Often people go straight for the medications at the first sign of an illness in their fish, usually without even knowing what exactly is wrong. This is a bad move. Positive identification of a disease is absolutely essential before beginning application of any medication. Many medications aren't exactly easy on your fish either meaning using the wrong one could end up further stressing your fish without curing their illness, likely leading to death. Still, should you encounter a disease where a medication is applicable it can be a real life saver. Just make sure to remove any carbon from the filter before beginning treatment as it will soak up the medication before it has a chance to act. And, it should go without saying that the directions should be followed to a T. Pay particular attention to any warnings dealing with species the medication should not be used with. Some, for example, will kills snails and plants if there are any in the tank.
Common Ailments
There are tons and tons of diseases your fish may face- far more than what are listed here. However, many of them are fairly rare, affecting only a few specific species or only arising under specific circumstances. Instead, this list tries to cover only the most common ones that most aquarists tend to run into.
Nitrogen Cycle in aquariums. Legend: (1) Addition of food and nutrients, (2) Production of Urea and Ammonia by Fish, (3) Ammonia is converted to Nitrites by beneficial Nitrosomonas bacteria, (4) Nitrites are converted to Nitrates by beneficial Nitrospira bacteria. Less toxic Nitrates are removed by plants and periodic water changes. (5) Evaporation. (6) Light, (7) Soil, (8) O 2 produced by plants, (9) CO 2 produced by Fish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Ammonia Poisoning/New Tank Syndrome
signs- red irritated gills, fish gasping for air at the surface, most common in new tanks
As the common name of 'new tank syndrome' suggests, this is typically only a problem in freshly setup aquariums, although it can occur is older systems if the filtration system is severely damaged. Basically, not all bacteria are out to make a meal of your fish. Some are actually quite helpful, and necessary, to your aquarium. Their job is to process the fish's waste from highly toxic substances, namely ammonia, into compounds they can more easily tolerate. The process of establishing these bacteria in a new system is called cycling. Unfortunately, this step is frequently skipped leading to a buildup of ammonia which in short order leads to dead fish.
treatment: water changes
To solve this problem you basically just have to keep the water clean through frequent water changes until the bacteria have established themselves and can take over. A test kit for ammonia is very helpful here as ideally you want to keep the ammonia level under 1ppm. Typically you will need to do a small water change daily for a few weeks to allow the cycle to complete while keeping the tank habitable for your fish. Keeping feedings light during this time can also help keep the waste load low which in turn keeps the water cleaner.
signs- fish has fuzzy whitish globs or patches attached to its fins and/or body
Like a lot a ailments you're likely to encounter, fish fungus usually appears on fish whose health has already been compromised. The fungi that cause it are quite common and pretty much guaranteed to be in the tank at all times. This normally wouldn't be a problem, but when a fish is already in poor shape the fungus can get a hold very easily. It often starts at the site of an injury, which could be anything from small scrapes to major sores, and spreads quickly from there.
treatment: medication for fungal infections
The best way to treat fungal infections is with medication designed for them. Of course making sure the tank is in good shape is key as well as the fish is likely already in poor shape and needs all the help he can get recovering. As a side note, many remedies for fungal infections also work against bacterial infections which can bring some added benefit if the fish's initial poor health was brought on by one.
Ick/Ich and Velvet
signs- fish is covered in lightly colored specks or has a dusty appearance
Ick
Ask people to name a common fish disease and ick is probably the one you'll get. It seems just about everyone who's ever kept fish has had to deal with it at one point or another. Furthermore, it's quite easy to spot compared to other diseases and so seems to stick with people. If you haven't encountered it before, ick is a parasite that burrows into the fish's skin causing little white spots that make it appear as though your fish has been salted. Outbreaks often occur after the addition of new fish, which bring ick along with them, although it can also limp along in a tank for a long time until conditions are favorable for a explosion. Like pretty much every disease, favorable conditions means fish in poor health with the most common reason being poor water quality.
Velvet
Velvet is less common but still worth mentioning. It's another parasite that behaves much like ick, appearing as spots on the skin. The difference is the spots are much smaller and may have a yellow to greyish appearance. With enough of them it can sort of blend together giving the fish a fuzzy velvety appearance, hence the name.
treatment: medication for parasites
Treatment for both ick and velvet is pretty much the same. They're both parasites with a similar life cycle- part of which is spent attached to a fish and part of which is spent free swimming. Killing them is more or less impossible while they're safely burrowed under the fish's skin. It's only when they emerge into the open water to look for a new host that they're vulnerable. This means treatment can take some time. Medication needs to be applied for an extended period to basically wait out the parasite's natural life cycle, which can take up to a month. Raising the temperature of the aquarium a few degrees can help speed things up a bit. Also one other note- these parasites do require a fish host to complete their life cycle. So, should you move all your fish into quarantine for treatment, any parasites left in the main tank will die off after about a month.
signs- fish is bloated, possibly with the scales protruding giving it a pine cone appearance
Dropsy isn't a disease itself but rather the physical outcome of some other ailment, usually a bacterial infection although it could be caused by any number of other things. The swelling is brought on by a buildup of fluid in the fish's body cavity.
treatment: medication for bacterial infections, aquarium salt
Unfortunately by the time the symptoms are clearly visible it's often too late to save the fish. Still, the best course of action is to move the fish to quarantine and begin administering an antibiotic, preferably in the form of an medicated food. Adding a small amount of aquarium salt may also help the fish expel some of the excess fluid thus alleviating the swelling. Use around one tablespoon per five gallons.
Swim Bladder
signs- fish has difficulty maintaining equilibrium and may have trouble controlling depth
A fish's swim bladder is sort of like a ballast tank in a submarine, only with air instead of water. They use it to keep themselves upright and at the correct depth. When it becomes damaged or otherwise perturbed the fish is no longer able to control this air and so will usually either sink to the bottom or float to the top, often in an off-kilter orientation.
treatment: fasting/cooked peas, medication for bacterial infections
Unfortunately there's not a lot of consensus on the exact cause (and in fact there are at least a couple possible causes) or how to treat it. Making sure the tank's chemistry is in good shape should be your first step of course, as it should be with any problem. One common cause is a blockage in the fish's digestive system. The common solution for this is shelled cooked peas (they're sorta the go-to fish laxative). Backing off on feedings for a few days can also help. Try this and see if the problem clears up. If not then it may be the symptom of a bigger infection in which case a medication can be tried. Unfortunately it can also sometimes arise due to trauma sustained during transport in which case there's not much that can be done. In these cases all you can do is give the fish a place to recover and hope for the best.
Pop Eye
signs- fish has a protruding eye
A pretty self explanatory name, the fish's eye or eyes bulge out from the fish's head as if they're on the verge of falling out completely. It's basically an inflammation of the eye causing it to swell and protrude. Once again this isn't so much linked to any one specific cause but instead may originate from a couple possible sources, namely injury or an infection.
treatment: improve conditions, medication for bacterial infections, aquarium salt
Injury due to fighting or possibly from bumping into something is probably the most common. Think of it like the fish equivalent of a black eye. A good indicator that this is a the cause is if only one eye is affected. In this case the best you can do is stop any fighting and provide your fish with a peaceful home in which to recover.
Another possibility is a bacterial infection. If both eyes are popped then this is more likely, though the fish should still be checked for signs of injury or fighting. A good medication is the best course of action here.
Finally, another thing you may try is aquarium salts. The increased salinity will help draw out the excess fluid, relieving the swelling. Add one tablespoon per five gallons and watch to see if it has any effect. Remember this can help relieve the swelling but won't fix the underlying problem and as always your first step should be to make sure the water is in good shape.
Cloudy Eye
signs- fish has a cloudy eye
The creatures of the world have all sorts of interesting eye with various colors and shapes and whatnot. One thing they all have in common, though, is that the center is nice and clear. If you ever notice your fish's eye or eyes becoming milky then something is not quite right.
treatment: improve conditions, medication for bacterial infections
There are a handful reasons a fish's eye may become cloudy. Parasites or bacteria are possible causes, particularly if the eye has been injured. Poor diet or even cataracts as a result of old age are possible culprits as well. But, the most likely cause falls in line with so many other problems- poor water quality. Getting the tank is good shape should be your first concern if your fish develops cloudy eyes.
Pay particular attention to the pH as an especially low pH is thought to contribute to this problem. Check that you are feeding your fish an appropriate diet as well. With better water quality and a proper diet the problem should clear in a few weeks. However, if the problem does not clear after several weeks with improved conditions an antibiotic can be tried.
Hole in the Head/Lateral Line Disease
signs- fish has holes in its head
The name is pretty self explanatory, and the symptoms are easy to spot, so all that leaves is the cause. Why are there unwelcome holes in your fish's head? Unfortunately there's no consensus on the exact cause. It may be caused by some specific pathogen, but none has been positively identified as of yet. Some think overuse of activated carbon or nutritional deficiencies may have something to do with it as well.
treatment: improve conditions, diet change
Ultimately, your best bet is to improve conditions as much as you can for your fish. Step up the water changes and try removing any activated carbon from your filtration. Try to add as much variety to your fish's diet as you can. Frozen as well as vitamin enriched flake foods are great sources of vital nutrients your fish may be lacking.
Fin Rot
signs- the fish's fins are deteriorating
Fin rot is another ailment that's not so much about a specific contagion rather than a result of the fish's overall health. Fin rot typically only affects fish that are already stressed or weak due to something else such as poor water quality, malnutrition, bullying, or possibly even some other sickness, at which point bacteria move in and start feasting on your poor fish's fins.
treatment: improve conditions, medication for bacterial infections
Your first course of action should be to determine why the fish's health has slipped in the first place and correct it. Check the water quality and switch to high quality vitamin enriched foods if you haven't already. An antibiotic may be necessary if the damage is severe (more than just a small section of the fin).
Again, the majority of the time health issues come down to a water quality problem. Keeping on top of your aquarium maintenance schedule is the best way to prevent problems in the first place.
Likewise, if an illness should strike checking the water's parameters should be your first step. Many problems will clear on their own with improved conditions. And if a medication becomes necessary make certain to follow the directions extremely closely. An overdose of medicine can be just as bad if not worse than the illness itself.
By Kevin A. K.
Dealing with disease is just one aspect of successfully keeping an aquarium. Learn everything you need to know to setup your first tank at aquarium-setup.net.
Article Source: EzineArticles
If you have Cichlids in your fish aquarium, can you imagine how frustrating it can be to know you have a pair of these clever fish spawning but you can never get around to actually seeing them do it? Such is often the case with Dwarf Cichlids who are quite secretive spawners. Many spawn in rocky caves, often upside down on the ceiling, just to be different.
Pelvicachromis pulcher, adult male (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The Kribensis, Pelvicachromis pulcher, is a modest-sized Cichlid from West Africa. The male has a spade-shaped caudal fin whilst the female's main claim to fame is her purple coloration which intensifies at breeding time.
These fish will certainly spawn in the community aquarium and are stout defenders of both their spawning site and subsequent fry. It is not unusual for them to 'disappear' for a disconcerting period of time only to eventually reappear with a couple of dozen youngsters in tow. However it is obviously best to set up a separate breeding tank for them.
Again a planted tank is recommended with the added furnishing of a flowerpot laid on its side on the substrate. You should enlarge the drainage hole in the bottom to allow the fish to enter and exit the pot from that end should they prefer to. Alternatively, short pieces of plastic pipe may also make potential spawning sites.
As with other Cichlids, a pair of Kribensis will normally pair off spontaneously should you have a number of them grown up from young in your collection. You could also buy a pair from your dealer, using the sex identification guide, but there is no guarantee that they will turn into a compatible pair bent on producing a family for you.
Once decided on a lady of his choice, the male fish will display in front of her with many turnings and U-shape bendings of his body. At this time too, his colors will be intensified.
They will disappear into the flowerpot or pipe to clean a spawning site on which eggs are laid by the female and fertilized by the male.
When the fry emerge from their hatching period and are free-swimming, the female's colors again intensify possibly to facilitate fry-adult communication. Her belly turns a deep rich purple whilst her fins take on a sooty black appearance, especially the pelvic fins which she continually flicks as if signalling to the fry.
Again, the parents will herd the young and protect them against any possible threat.
Raising the fry to young fish follows the normal feeding patterns and the fry grow quickly.
It is often the case that there is a predominance of one sex or another in the brood of youngsters.
Reports suggest that this state of affairs can be altered (perhaps producing too many of the other sex next time?) by tinkering with the water chemistry, i.e., raising or lowering the pH from what is was before. Caution must be exercised when altering the water chemistry; at the very least you might put off the parents' willingness to breed - even though you wouldn't be able to see them doing it.
Because it is imperative that discus fish have optimal water conditions, much has been written about this subject, This is the plan put in place to insure proper PH water levels in our hatchery.
Allnut Enterprises' breeder, Nick Lockhart of Noblesville, Indiana, has many ingenious ideas as to how to accomplish things in the hatchery. We begin our experiment with two matched pairs: two red melons, and two leopardskins. They are lovely, friendly fish, and have been getting acclimated to our tanks and the aquarist since the end of June.
Initially, we begin to prepare for the new arrivals by setting up the tanks in this manner: water was tested for PH and nitrite levels, and a proper ecosystem for active bacteria was begin by populating the tank with cichlids that Nick has been raising prior to the purchase of the discus. When we felt that the water/bacteria levels were correct, we set up the meeting with the breeder, and made the trip to Bloomington, Indiana.
Upon arrival at home base with a travel time of about an hour and a half, we immediately begin to acclimate the pairs to their new home. We were advised by the breeder to let them acclimate to the new tank water by "floating" the bags containing the fish for approximately one hour to equalize the temperatures, and to add a cup of water to the bag from the tank to equalize PH levels.
We did not, however, follow this procedure. We took approximately six hours to acclimate by adding a cup of the tank water to the bag each hour, and keeping a close eye on the discus and PH levels, because they were stressed from the trip. A Hanna PH digital meter was used for testing, which gave us a very accurate reading. As large changes in PH in a short period can shock the discus, we were careful in this approach. Our water at the time matched the water in PH levels from the breeder closely.
Because the two pair were bought for breeding purposes, Nick was not comfortable with the PH level, which at that time was at approximately 7.5, high for optimal breeding conditions of 6.5-6.9. What to do?
We had read that hanging a mesh bag of peat moss would help to lower the PH, but were not happy with the idea of having debris from the Peat in our tanks, which are kept scrupulously clean. We knew there had to be a better way to accomplish this goal.
Because Nick lives in town, and has city water, he uses a Reverse Osmosis filtering system to insure that the water is free of chemicals and suitable for the aquarium. Knowing that Peat Moss will lower the PH in an aquarium system, and having a large bag left over from making culture for Grindal and White Worms, he took a 5 gallon pail, and drilled a series of holes around the perimeter of the bottom of the pail, using a 3/32" drill. He then lined the bottom of the pail with a think layer of regular aquarium filter floss, and topped that off with a thick layer of Peat Moss, with the finished pail being about two-thirds full.
The outlet hose from the RO system was then allowed to drain into this pail. Setting the pail over the top of the holding tank, the water slowly drained down through this medium into the holding tank.
Initial test of the recycled water showed a drop in PH to below the base of 7.0. We have been adding the water to the discus tanks slowly through water changes so as to not shock the fish, and at our business meeting this weekend, Nick informed me that the PH levels in the discus tanks are now at approximately 6.6, which is the optimal level for breeding discus.
Cost of the project? If you already are using an RO system, and have a holding tank, you will spend a twenty dollar bill getting the Peat Moss and filter floss. Not bad, considering a breeding pair of dicus can run you $425 dollars!
Alden Smith is CEO of Allnut Enterprises, a diversified company, and is involved with discus breeding. His website is http://www.kingdiscus.blogspot.com
Freshwater crayfish are beautiful and fascinating creatures to house in an aquarium. There are over 100 different species of crayfish which differ in color, from yellow to green and brown to red. Most of them live up to 3 years, though some may live longer. Nonetheless there is more to keeping crayfish than just throwing them in the tank. Even though they live in mud when in the wild, ensuring that the creature is both healthy and happy at all times is very important.
A dry specimen of Astacopsis gouldi, the Tasmanian giant freshwater crayfish,
on display in the Oxford University Museum of Natural History.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)
You must pay attention to a number of factors including, water chemistry and quality, whom they are sharing the tank with and diet. You must also understand that different species of the fish have slightly different needs, temperaments and behavior. Here is a comprehensive guide on freshwater crayfish care:
Water parameters
This is one of the most important factors associated with freshwater crayfish care. If the water conditions in the aquarium are not right, your fish may become uncomfortable or even die. So before you start keeping crayfish learn about cycling your fish tank. Here are some other great points to consider:
Make sure you keep the water at a Ph. level between 7 and 8.
Crayfish will do fine at room temperature water, but do not let the water get too hot, above (80 F/26 C).
Crayfish thrive well in hard water. The minimum water hardness should be between (8-12 dGH and KH (140-210).
Crayfish that are deficient in iodine usually experience problems when molting. The easiest way to make sure that they have enough iodine is to purchase marine iodine. A single bottle can last you several months.
Just like any other fish tank, changing your filters monthly and 25 percent water of your water every two weeks is very important with freshwater crayfish care.
What do crayfish eat?
Crayfish are omnivores, meaning they feed on plants and animals; mainly fish. Usually pet crayfish are fed sinking pellets. In addition to that, vegetables like zucchini, spinach, frozen peas and collard greens are also great for crayfish. You can supplement their diet with feeder fish every now and then. Crayfish absolutely love fish. So don't be surprised if one of your fish come up missing one day.
Also note that the fish require a lot of calcium to help them grow their exoskeleton. This basically means that in your aquarium, you should make sure that they are receiving enough calcium in their diet. Vegetables like spinach and collard greens are great sources of calcium. It is also acceptable to give them a supplement of brine shrimp or frozen krill once or twice a week.
How often do they eat?
Freshwater crayfish only need to be fed once a day. But plant food can be left in the aquarium indefinitely. If your crayfish eats a fish, and leaves pieces of the fish, make sure you remove the pieces quickly.
Can I keep crayfish in a tank with live plants?
Crayfish feed on anything they come across. Even though this may not be true for all crayfish, it is safe to assume that they will eat or destroy your plants. That is why it's always a good idea to have artificial plants for your tank.
Molting
Most animals including crustaceans like freshwater crayfish undergo a process known as molting. This is shedding of their exoskeleton so as to accommodate the fish's growth. If you note that the fish is hiding more or eating less than usual, it may be a sign that he his molting. When they molt do not remove the shell from the aquarium, he will consume it to facilitate growth of the new exoskeleton.
With these freshwater crayfish care tips, you should be able to have a healthy pet crayfish. Their lifecycle is very fascinating to watch and the fish will sometimes do things that will make you laugh out loud. Take care of them properly and they will reward you with several years of enjoyment.
The Scissortail Rasbora, Rasbora trilineata, is also called the Scissortail Shark, and simply the Scissortail. Alternative scientific names are Rasbora calliura and Rasbora stigmatura. It is not shark like in its behavior and only vaguely shark like in its appearance. It grows to about 4 inches (10cm). It is fairly peaceful and is suitable for a mixed collection of small fish.
The Scissortail Rasbora comes from South Eastern Asia, including Malaysia and Indonesia.
This fish has attractive black and white markings on its tail, and the movement of these as the fish swims reminds some people of the action of Scissor blades.
Water Conditions
The Scissortail Rasbora comes from soft acidic waters and these are the ideal conditions for it in an aquarium. They will adapt to neutral pH (7) and some hardness in the water. 24 degrees C (75 degrees F) is a suitable temperature. In the wild, the Scissortail Rasbora often inhabits flowing water, as in a river or stream. Some water movement from a filter in the aquarium is beneficial.
Food
The Scissortail Rasbora is an omnivore. It will eat any normal fish food and loves live food like mosquito larvae and daphnia. Frozen blood worms and frozen brine shrimp are also gobbled up eagerly.
Companions
The Scissortail Rasbora likes conditions similar to the preferred conditions of many of the South American Tetras.
Some suitable companions are Pristella Tetras, Paraguay Tetras, Rummy Nose Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras, Buenos Aries Tetras, Black Widow Tetras, Emperor Tetras, Head and Tail Light Tetras, Glowlight Tetras, Corydoras Catfish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows and Zebra Danios.
The Scissortail Rasbora can also be kept with Swordtails, Glass Bloodfin Tetras, Guppies, Endlers Guppies and Mollies, but the water conditions for a mixture like this would be a compromise between the ideal conditions for these different fish and would not be ideal for any of them.
Breeding
The Scissortail Rasbora is not a very easy fish to breed. The females tend to be a little larger than the males and will be plumper when ready to breed. Conditioning the fish with black worms or other rich food like frozen blood worms is a good idea.
The breeding tank needs to have soft, acid water. A lowered water level may also help stimulate breeding. Cleanliness is very important for this species and the addition of an anti fungus medication may help prevent the eggs from getting infected.
The Scissortail Rasbora will eat its own eggs and babies and the parents should be removed after spawning.
The eggs will hatch in 24 hours and will take small live food like the finest screened Daphnia as soon as the egg yolk is fully absorbed.
