There are times in every parent's life when his or her child, pet, or goldfish gets sick. Goldfish are prone to many ailments, and even the most common ones can be life threatening. Prevention and monitoring your fish are the best ways to keep your pet from contracting a disease.
Ryukin goldfish with swim bladder disease. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Being the good parent that you are, you have probably studied and memorized the normal movements and behaviors of your goldfish. If Goldie happens to become ill, look for signs that differ for their normal swimming patterns.
If your fish is shaking, hiding in corners and isolated places, gasping for breath near the surface of the tank, has his fins pressed together in a clamped fashion or demonstrates any other strange behaviors, it might be a good indicator that he's coming down with an illness. Once you've noticed these odd actions, take a closer look at your fish and see if there are discolorations or markings on his body.
Fish with certain parasites might have red and inflamed areas, sometimes around the gills, or might have swollen blood bumps on eir bodies. Check for damaged fins, cloudy eyes and bumps or blisters that appear on the scales.
There are many common goldfish ailments that can be identified by examining your pet's physical appearance. Once you have identified that there is definitely something wrong with your goldfish, it is a good idea to isolate him from your other fish in a hospital tank.
The hospital tank is prepared in advance and made to match the current environment of your fish, so that he won't go into shock. If the ailment turns out to be contagious, it's not a bad idea to treat your other fish as well as the sick one.
Unfortunately, some fish, no matter how hard you try, do not overcome their illness and continue to suffer until they pass away. Many people do not like to see their fish in constant pain and fell that euthanasia is appropriate. There are many methods out there for ending the life of a goldfish, so be sure to choose one that does not cause your fish even more pain.
While there are plenty of goldfish illnesses, there are just as many ways to treat them. Prevention and care is the best medicine for keeping your goldfish buddy in tiptop shape.
There is nothing wrong with wanting a reptile for a pet, provided of course you first arm yourself with knowledge. Education is the key to being a responsible owner. Of course, there are instances when you may not first get the chance. Suppose your well-meaning relative decided it would be a good idea to give you an exotic pet for a gift, not thinking of the reptile's welfare should you be unable to care for it or uneducated about its care. But, of course there are always exceptions to the rule.
An Eastern Bearded Dragon displays its beard in a threatening position. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
There are ways of choosing your pet when you do decide to obtain a reptile. You can choose to buy a pet to fit the cage you are able to get, or you can buy a cage to fit the pet you want. Either way you go, please make sure you take into account that the reptile will grow and must be able to fit into the enclosure as it gets bigger. Please refrain from purchasing the reptile if you will be unsure about being able to afford a larger cage later on or if you won't have the space. There are plenty of other choices you can make that will fit into your budget.
A Leopard Gecko is a popular lizard choice for people who want a reptile that will be smaller than the Iguana. The Iguana has been known to reach 7 feet in length! A bigger lizard means a bigger cage and a bigger food bill. The Leopard Gecko only reaches 10 inches. There's obviously quite a difference there. First time owners have more success when they start small and build up to the other interests. This lizard also stays active at night, so night owls may get more enjoyment from it than someone who wants to interact or watch their reptile during the day. The Leopard Gecko can live up to 15 years and is easy for a beginner to care for.
A Bearded Dragon is a popular lizard choice. They're fond of crickets, but they also need fresh vegetables and fruits like the Iguana. The Bearded Dragon looks fierce and beautiful when it fans out its spiky beard. These reptiles can grow to 20 inches. Blue skinks are known for their blue tongues. Skinks can grow anywhere from 12 to 20 inches, depending on which type you get. They enjoy a diet of earthworms. This may be easier to stomach than the diet of mice and rats a snake requires!
Another common lizard choice is that of the Green Anole, also known as the American chameleon. While it isn't actually related to the chameleon, it is able to change colors from green to dark brown. This reptile only grows to 9 inches normally and eats insects.
Whatever your choice of lizard or other reptile as a pet, just make sure you do your research before you purchase. If you are given the animal as a gift, please educate yourself as quickly as possible to prevent unintentional harm to the reptile.
Saltwater enthusiast have developed a love affair with coral reefs. There is nothing they love better then to design, stock and maintain a saltwater aquarium that is teaming with coral.
For years only the most adventurous were brave enough to tackle the challenges proposed by a reef saltwater aquarium. Until recently coral reef was notoriously hard to maintain.
Times have changed. Now there are several varieties of coral that even the most novice saltwater aquarium owner can enjoy.
The key to successfully maintaining a reef saltwater aquarium is to have your saltwater reef aquarium properly set up.
The first thing you'll want to find is a tank. Select the largest possible tank that you feel comfortable with. The greater the size of your tank, the greater the water mass encompassing the reef, and the more you will be able to duplicate the effects of the ocean. You can choose either the classic look of a glass aquarium or you can select an acrylic tank which gives you a larger variety of shapes and styles. Acrylic tanks are also more durable then glass tanks. Make sure that there is absolutely no copper anywhere in the tank. Copper has a lethal affect on coral.
Before adding the coral to your tank make sure that the temperature of your water stays consistent. The temperature should remain at 23-25 degrees Celsius (73-77 degrees Fahrenheit). Your coral will remain healthier in water that is always at the same temperature.
It is very important that your reef saltwater aquarium be properly filtered. The three types of filters are mechanical, biological, and chemical.
A mechanical filter is a filter made out of spun nylon floss. Mechanical filter trap and remove wasteful material and prevent your chemical and biological filters from becoming clogged. There are a variety of biological filters. Some use the tanks aquarium substrate as a part of the filtration system. The purpose of biological filters is to contain the biochemical properties and to break down waste products.
Chemical filters absorbs the ions of dissolved waste. Chemical filters are typically based on active carbon.
Many reef saltwater aquarium owners like to use other products such as Bioballs and Protein Skimmers to assist with their filtration system.
The PH level of a reef saltwater aquarium should hold steady at 8.2.
Coral reefs require a filtration system that circulates the tanks water. Moving water tends to be rich in oxygen and the currents carry food to the invertebrates living inside the immobile coral. A submersible pump will do wonders to increase the water flow in a saltwater aquarium.
When you decide that it is time to stock your reef saltwater aquarium with fish you need to remember a few things before rushing out to your favorite fish store.
Bear in mind that just because a variety of fish lives in the ocean does not automatically mean that it's compatible with coral. Some fish eat the invertebrates that make the coral reef their home. Some fish produce waste that is toxic to the coral. Some fish, like Blow-fish, produce a toxin when they die that can kill every living organism in your aquarium.
The French angelfish is a very popular large angelfish within the pomacanthidae family. They are also some of the largest angels in that family. They enjoy their popularity with two other angels, the Emperor and the Queen angelfish.
French angelfish, Pomacanthus paru (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Their scientific names are Pomacanthus Paru and they hail from throughout the Caribbean oceans. They are a common sight by scuba divers in the area and known for their curious and bold disposition. This is why there are so many videos on this species on youtube.
They are very similar to their close relative, the Gray angelfish (Pomacanthus arcuatus). As juveniles, you would be hard pressed to tell the two apart. But as adults however, the task becomes much easier. The French angelfish has golden to yellow flecks throughout its body while those found on the gray angelfish are a dark gray.
While it may be difficult to tell juveniles apart, there is a simple method. Always note the shape of their caudal fins. Those in the french are always rounded while those on the gray are always straighter. Viewed side by side, this trait is very apparent.
Both the French angelfish and the Gray angelfish get really big in the wild. Specimens of up to two feet have been reported. But as is normally the case, they seldom reach such lengths in captivity. Expect no more than 16 inches or so.
Prepare a large aquarium for them if you are interested in rearing this large species. The minimum requirement would be a 150 gallon tank. They are an open swimming species so something larger like a 250 to 300 gallon aquarium is highly recommended.
In the wild they graze on a wide variety of food items from crustaceans, algae, polyps and sponges. Because of this, they are not considered reef safe and can destroy your corals in short order. Offer them a balanced diet consisting of dry pellet food, nori sheets and a mix of meaty foods.
They are usually easily fed once they have acclimated and are a wonderful addition to the tank. They are usually the first to at the aquarium glass once they see you and have interesting behaviors.
Oscar Cichlid, also known for their scientific name Astronotus Ocellatus, is found in South America and native to Peru, Brazil, French Guiana and Columbia. Other common names include Velvet Cichlid, Marble Cichlid, and Tiger Oscar. These fish are rapid growers. Reaching an average of 12 inches in length, some have been known reach a total of 18 inches and weigh 3.5 lbs.
Photo of a leucistic Long Finned Oscar (Astronotus ocellatus). Some have remarked that this strain is more difficult to care for than the strain found in the wild. However, this is not noticeable unless the specimen is under a lot of stress. The fish is a little bulkier due to carrying more fins. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Typically dark in colour, orange-ringed spots also known as ocelli are found around the gill area, dorsal fin, and on the sides towards the back end of the fish. Found in a variety of colours, Oscars can range from being mottled, all black or red, marbled, or albino. When becoming combative or territorial, they are known to change colour rapidly. Juvenile Oscars have spotted heads and are striped with wavy, orange and white bands.
Oscar Cichlids are known to be aggressive compared to other members in the cichlid family. Jack Dempsey's, Pacus, and Silver Dollars will work well as tank mates as well as other moderately aggressive cichlids.
Noted as being intelligent creatures from aquarists alike, they are able to distinguish their owners apart from strangers. Oscars are curious, playful, and popular among hobbyists.
Since Oscars are carnivores, their diet should consist of fish and insects. Feeder fish, brine shrimp, krill, and crickets are all acceptable food types. High quality prepared foods such as pellets and flakes can also be supplemented with the food types previously mentioned.
A 75 gallon tank per Oscar is the ideal size with a water temperature range of 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit. PH should be maintained between 6.5 and 7.0. Although Oscars are relatively hardy fish, water conditions must be kept clean and maintained. Improper water and tank maintenance can lead to certain diseases that Oscars are susceptible to, such as HITH, (hole in the head) a disease which affects the sensory organs in the lateral lines and face of the fish, thus causing pitting in both areas.
By Craig Wrightson
If you would like to learn more about Oscar Cichlids and their environment, visit my site African Cichlid Success NEW eBook! Get Instant Access! Learn everything you need to know about setting up and maintaining a perfect Cichlid Tank including the unbelievably simple secrets the professional breeders use on caring, feeding, breeding and diseases!
Article Source: EzineArticles
Crested geckos are some of the easiest reptiles to keep as pets, providing that a few very simple rules are followed.
Crested geckos require a nutrient and calcium rich balanced diet, in order for them to grow properly and live a long and healthy life.
They also require a temperature gradient in order for them to thermo-regulate and better digest the nutrients in their food.
They also require plenty of space to move around, and being arboreal tree dwellers they also require a lot of climbing branches / perches.
The New Caledonian Crested Gecko (Rhacodactylus ciliatus). (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The most common health problems that occur in cresties in captivity are usually a result of one of the above not being offered, or not being offered to the correct standard.
Below you will find an insight into the most common of these problems and ways to ensure that they are prevented.
Metabolic bone disease in geckos is most often caused due to a lack of the correct nutrients being provided in their diets.
Metabolic bone disease is a deficiency of calcium, which results in the gecko utilising the calcium reserves from its own body and skeleton to supplement this lack in calcium.
By using the reserves of calcium in its own body, the gecko's skeleton is 'warped' and misshapen due to the bones becoming very weak and pliable.
This often results in permanent disfigurement of the gecko, especially in the form of bumps, twists and dips in the spine and a rotating of the hips, causing the tail to flop or jut-out at an unusual angle.
Metabolic bone disease can also cause a weakening of the jaw, resulting in the gecko finding eating much more difficult.
The jaw is often too weak for the gecko to close it itself, and the jaw remains permanently open.
Due to the weakening of the bones, MBD can also at its worst result in numerous broken bones.
A gecko with MBD finds it more difficult to climb, and often lose the 'stickiness' on their feet and tail. If a gecko with MBD falls from a height, broken bones are usually the result.
Metabolic bone disease in its latter stages is a horrific sight to witness, and the gecko is twisted and contorted out of recognition.
In younger and crested gecko breeding females it is extra important to supplement feeding properly. Hatchlings put a lot of calcium into bone growth, and breeding females use an extraordinary amount of calcium when producing eggs.
Providing a healthy, nutrient rich and balanced gecko diet is the most foolproof way to help prevent your crested gecko developing MBD.
Preventing gecko Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:
Gut load live food prior to feeding making them more nutritious
Dust live food with nutrient powders, Calcium, and/or Calcium D3
Provide a good meal replacement gecko diet powder
UVB light can also help to prevent MBD, as it helps the gecko to absorb and utilise the calcium in its diet more efficiently
Too much phosphorous in a diet can prevent calcium being absorbed. Avoid foods with high phosphorus content.
Floppy tail syndrome: FTS in crested geckos
Floppy tail syndrome in geckos is when the gecko's tail literally flops in an abnormal direction. It is most noticeable when the gecko is laying upside-down, flat against the side of its enclosure, at which point the tail usually flops down over its head or at a jaunty angle.
A healthy gecko tail would rest against the glass in its natural position.
It is thought that Floppy tail syndrome results mainly from a captive environment as cresties in the wild would rarely come across a surface as flat, smooth and vertical as an enclosure wall.
It is believed that this flat surface is what can contribute to FTS in crested geckos, as laying on this vertical surface for extended periods of time results in the tail 'flopping' over due to gravity, and weakens the muscles at the tails base.
At its worst, floppy tail syndrome is believed to be able to twist the pelvis of the gecko, predominantly due to the excessive weight put on the pelvic area when the tail flops to the side.
Due to this it is not advised to breed a female crested gecko with FTS, as she could well encounter problems trying to pass the eggs.
Although no concrete evidence is available, it can be assumed that providing plenty of climbing and hiding places for your gecko could help to prevent them from sleeping on the enclosure walls.
However it is still not fully understood whether this is the actual underlying cause of FTS. Many believe it could be a genetic deformity, and as such it could be passed from parents to their young although at the minute this seems unlikely.
Heat Stress in Crested Geckos
Heat Stress in crested geckos is the number one killer of these usually very hardy and easy to care for reptiles.
Crested geckos will begin to show stress if kept at temperatures above 28C for prolonged periods of time.
It is much easier to maintain your crested gecko enclosure at temperatures closer to around 25C than to risk over exposure to higher temperatures.
That being said you can allow parts of your enclosure to reach 28C - for example directly below the basking bulb - so long as your pet gecko can choose to move into a cooler area if they wish.
Higher temperatures only become a deadly problem when your gecko is forced to endure them constantly or for long periods of time without the option to cool down.
Research has shown that crested gecko exposed to temperatures of 30C without being able to cool down, can and will very likely die within an hour.
Young/small geckos are even more prone to heat stress so it is best to always allow them the choice to move to the cooler end of their temperature range.
Cleaning your crested gecko vivarium:
Keeping your gecko enclosure clean will help to prevent illnesses linked with bad hygiene, bacteria and moulds.
The crested gecko tank / enclosure will periodically need a thorough clean when it becomes dirty.
I find it easiest to spot-clean the enclosures every day or two, removing uneaten food and excrement and wiping the sides of the enclosure with damp paper towel.
There are numerous reptile-safe disinfectants available now and these can be diluted with water to ensure a safe environment for your gecko after cleaning and you can use newspaper to clean up smears and streaks on glass enclosures.
It is advised to do a thorough complete clean of the enclosure and all of its contents once in a while. I tend to do a big clean out every month to help stop any unwanted bacteria building up.
With regular cleaning and upkeep your crested gecko enclosure should not create an unwanted odour or create mould/bacteria.
Choosing a healthy crested gecko:
A healthy gecko:
• Will have clean and clear nose and eyes. Eyes will be bright and shiny and will not be sunken into the head.
• Will not have layers of retained shed skin stuck at its extremities. Healthy geckos shed in a few hours and shed should not remain much longer than this.
• Will not be dehydrated: Dehydrated geckos will have loose skin, sunken eyes and will be somewhat lethargic. Dehydration often results in the gecko looking thin in comparison to a well hydrated gecko.
• Will be alert when handled, a unhealthy animal will be limp and possibly shaky in your hand and will show little to no interest or reaction in being handled
• Should have a plump, straight tail that can 'grasp' onto objects. A good test of this is if the gecko wraps its tail around your finger.
• Should have almost Velcro like feet. If the gecko is failing to stick/climb - this can be a sign of MBD or retained shed.
By Daniel Sharples
Take a look at our website dedicated to the care and husbandry of crested geckos and leopard geckos. geckocity.co.uk
Thank you for taking the time to read our article, we hope it was informative.
Article Source: EzineArticles
There is a big difference in the species of killifish. One is called annual and the other non-annual. The difference is due to conditions of living around them. The species which are used to live in the permanent and stable bodies of water are non-annual, and they will have a different lifestyle than the ones living in the temporary bodies.
Fundulus auroguttatus, a non-annual North American killifish (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
If the supply of water is for a short period of time in the year, killifish living in such water are labeled as annual killifish. They will prefer to place their eggs deep in the mud. The eggs will stay there for some time when the pond gets try. Eggs will continue to develop during this time but will not hatch.
As the rain comes back again after some time, these eggs will hatch. Some tough eggs will even wait for the second fall of rains before hatching. Once hatched, the fry will start growing quickly and they will be very aggressive because they will have a very short period of time at their disposal to complete their life cycle.
The beginners should avoid these annual killifish. As the conditions under which had they grow are variable in different parts of the world, you may not be able to replicate them in your small aquarium.
In contrast, the non annual killifish are colorful and will swim with grace. If you provide them normal conditions for living, they will lay eggs frequently. These eggs will be hatched in a period of three weeks.
The new ones will start looking out for food immediately after coming. The eggs are hard and the new ones will consume all the nutrients from it before they come out. As the eggs will be laid many times, the fry will be of different ages. This is the reason for low availability of non-annual killifish. You may not find them in many pet fish shops.
However, if you are lucky to get a pair, you can breed it successfully and get new arrivals continuously over a period of time. Remember, if you miss out, you may not find the same variety easily in the market. Many breeders will not sell a single male or female. The costs of shipping of killifish may even exceed the initial price you paid!
Some experienced fish-keepers make a third classification as some semi-annual killifish. Their eggs will survive above the water surface. These eggs will be attached to the plants and rocks which are near the surface of water. During the rainy season, as the level of water raises to the plants or the rocks, the eggs will be submerged in the water and they will hatch. This variety of killifish is not suitable for keeping at home at all.
So now you are familiar with the annual and non-annual varieties of killifish. The annuals will be difficult to keep as their life is short and you may not be able to breed them successfully. On the other hand, the non-annuals will live for a long time and if you correctly breed them, you will be able to get a continuous supply of new ones.
The only thing you should remember about them is about their availability. They may not be available easily and they are expensive also. You should keep in mind all these considerations before deciding to keep killifish in your aquarium.
By Chintamani Abhyankar
Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way.
Article Source: EzineArticles
